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(Anthony) 100 EPISODES
AND WHAT FEELS SOMETIMES LIKE 100 YEARS AGO,
WE DID OUR VERY FIRST EPISODE IN PARIS.
IT'S TIME, I GUESS, TO GO BACK.
Closed Captions provided by Scripps Networks, LLC.
Captioned by Closed Captioning Services, Inc.
IF THIS IS THE FUTURE, I LIKE IT.
(man) AAH, YEAH!
THAT'S RIGHT!
I WRITE. I TRAVEL.
I EAT, AND I'M HUNGRY FOR MORE.
♪ OOH, YOU'VE GOT TO ♪
♪ GET LOST ♪
♪ NO RESERVATIONS ♪
THERE'S SOMETHING GOIN' ON IN PARIS,
STRANGE AND WONDERFUL RUMBLINGS
OF A BOLD, NEW DIRECTION.
THAT'S WHAT THEY'RE SAYIN', ANYWAY.
THIS IS MY FRIEND, ERIC RIPERT.
HE'S FRENCH.
MAYBE YOU KNOW HIM FROM SUCH 3-STAR MICHELIN,
4-"NEW YORK TIMES"-STARRED RESTAURANTS
AS LE BERNADIN IN NEW YORK CITY
AND FROM SUCH TELEVISION SHOWS AS THIS ONE.
ERIC STARTED HIS CAREER HERE IN PARIS,
WORKING AT THE FAMOUS LA TOUR d'ARGENT
AND THEN LATER FOR PERHAPS THE GREATEST CHEF
OF THE LAST 100 YEARS,
THE MAN THEY CALL THE CHEF OF THE CENTURY,
JOEL ROBUCHON.
IT'S BEEN A WHILE SINCE ERIC SPENT ANY SERIOUS TIME
EATING IN PARIS, AND HE HAS EVERY REASON TO BELIEVE
THE EXPENSIVE PLACES WERE MAXIMS
AND LA TOUR d'ARGENT AND LASSERRE...
(speaking indistinctly)
BUT THINGS HAVE CHANGED SINCE ERIC'S TIME.
A NEW BREED, NOT NECESSARILY A MOVEMENT,
NOT ANY KIND OF AN ORGANIZED THING,
BUT A GROUNDSWELL, A RISING OF YOUNG TURKS,
REACTIONARIES, REVOLUTIONARIES,
PEOPLE FOR WHOM THE OLD WAY,
WHAT THEY USED TO CALL THE CORRECT WAY,
THE WAY THE OLD MICHELIN STAR SYSTEM USED TO DEMAND
IT HAD TO BE DONE, IS THE ENEMY.
THIS IS A SMALL SPECIALTY SHOP, LA TêTE DANS LES OLIVES,
SPECIALIZING IN OLIVES AND OTHER HOMEMADE GOODIES...
(indistinct conversation)
WHERE ALEXANDRE CAMMAS, WRITER AND FOUNDER
OF "LE FOODING" GUIDE,
AND CHEF IÑAKI AIZPITARTE
HAVE AGREED TO MEET US.
SO WHAT'S GOING ON IN PARIS?
ARE A LOT OF PEOPLE DOING EXCITING THINGS
AT THE SAME TIME, OR IS THIS AN ORGANIZED MOVEMENT?
(speaking French)
IT SOUNDS AS IF IT WERE A REACTIONARY TENDENCY,
THAT A LOT OF PEOPLE JUST DECIDED,
YES.
I THINK THAT IÑAKI IS COMPLETELY FRENCH,
AND HE'S BUILDING SOME NEW TRADITIONS.
(speaking French)
THE FOODING GUIDE WAS PROVOCATIVE,
TO SAY THE LEAST.
WE CREATE "LE FOODING,"
BECAUSE WE-- WE WERE VERY ASHAMED
ABOUT THIS VERY SERIOUS WAY
OF TALKING ABOUT COOKING IN FRANCE
AND OF STYLE OF RESTAURANT.
WAS THERE SOME RESISTANCE
YEAH.
O-OF COURSE, YEAH.
SO WHAT DOES THIS MEAN TO THE FUTURE OF--
OF DINING?
CAN FINE DINING AND THIS MORE CASUAL, DEMOCRATIC, UH,
UH, CUISINE-- CAN THEY COEXIST?
I HAVE SOMETHING TO SAY.
(speaking French)
(speaking French)
NO, BUT I HAVE TWO THINGS TO SAY.
THE FIRST THING IS THE IDEA OF THE MICHELIN
I THOUGHT WAS VERY INGENIOUS AT THE TIME.
IT WAS MEANT TO HELP TOURISM IN THE REGIONS.
SO BECAUSE A CHEF WOULD GET A 3-STAR,
THEN THE TOURISM WOULD COME INTO A REGION.
NOW AN ANALOGY THAT I HAVE MADE
MM-HMM.
YOU CAN VERY WELL GO SEE A ROCK CONCERT.
(Alexandre) MM-HMM.
BUT YOU CAN ALWAYS DECIDE TO GO TO THE OPERA.
AND YOU CAN BE THE SAME PERSON.
SO YOU DON'T HAVE TO BE BLACK AND WHITE SO MUCH.
FOR RESTAURANTS, I THINK IT IS THE SAME.
NOW IN DEFENSE OF THE-- OF THE MICHELIN,
IF I MAY--
I'M TALKING WITH SOMEONE WHO GET--
WHO HAS THE WEIGHT OF THE STARS ON HIS SHOULDER.
YES, BUT--
AND THEY BOTH CAN COEXIST.
IF YOU'RE YOUNG, AND YOU'RE STARTING A NEW BAND,
I-IT IS IMPORTANT TO ATTACK U2.
I THINK THAT YOU'RE OBLIGATED, ALMOST,
TO ATTACK THE SYSTEM, UH, NOW,
I-IF YOU'RE STARTING UP.
IT DOESN'T MATTER IF MICHELIN EXISTS OR NOT,
I HAVE A-- I HAVE A VISION.
AT LE BERNADIN, WE SAY THE FISH IS THE STAR OF THE PLATE.
WHATEVER WE DO IS TO ELEVATE THE FISH.
THIS IS A SIGNIFICANT MOMENT, I THINK,
BECAUSE FOR THE FIRST TIME I'VE EVER SEEN,
ERIC HAS FOUND HIMSELF IN THE POSITION
OF HAVING TO DEFEND FINE DINING, POOR ***.
ALL AFTERNOON, HE'S HAVING TO DEFEND HIMSELF, AS WELL,
FOR THE SIN OF RUNNING
ONE OF THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN THE WORLD.
A TROUBLING HARBINGER OF THINGS TO COME,
ISOLATED INCIDENT, OR SIGN OF THE APOCALYPSE?
WHAT DOES THIS MEAN?
IN THE MEANTIME, MAYBE FINDING SOLACE
IN THE OLD SCHOOL SEEMS SUDDENLY LIKE A VERY GOOD IDEA,
COMFORT FOOD TO COMFORT TROUBLED SOULS.
VADORIN TRIPERIE,
RUN BY GENERATIONS OF THE VADORIN FAMILY.
ERIC HAS SOME HISTORY WITH THIS BUTCHER SHOP.
OH, NICE.
MONSIEUR VADORIN AND HIS FATHER BEFORE HIM
SUPPLIED AND CONTINUE TO SUPPLY THE VERY BEST TRIPES, KIDNEYS,
LIVERS, AND OTHER BACK-END BITS
TO SOME OF THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN PARIS,
INCLUDING THE ESTIMABLE JOEL ROBUCHON.
HE ASKED IF YOU WANT TO GO EAT TRIPES.
HE'S NOT SERVING COOKED TRIPE OR KIDNEYS,
AS IT'S LATE SPRING, BUT NOT TO WORRY, HE INSISTS.
HE KNOWS SOMEBODY... (speaking indistinctly) NEARBY.
WE'LL SHARE A BOWL.
(voices overlapping)
HE'LL HAVE THIS MAN SHOW US OVER THERE
AND MAKE SURE WE'RE PROPERLY LOOKED AFTER.
RIGHT.
ALL OF THEM.
A FEW BLOCKS OVER, A TINY, FAMILY-RUN, NEIGHBORHOOD JOINT
WHO SPECIALIZE, OH, JOY OF JOYS,
IN TRADITIONAL OFFAL DISHES.
(speaking French)
WE SIT DOWN FOR A QUICK BOWL
OF THE TINIEST, PALEST PINK, SWEETEST LITTLE KIDNEYS
I'VE EVER HAD, COOKED WITH...
(speaking indistinctly) MUSHROOMS
AND ESPELETTE PEPPER-- PERFECTION--
WHAT PARIS WAS AND ALWAYS HAS BEEN
AND HOPEFULLY ALWAYS WILL BE GREAT AT.
THIS IS GOOD. I'M COMING BACK HERE.
MM-HMM.
YOU KNOW, IT COMES AT THE END.
MM-HMM.
YOU KNOW, THEY ARE EXCEPTIONAL,
I HAVE TO SAY.
AND HE WAS SAYING YOU HAVE TO COOK THEM VERY QUICKLY.
AND THEY HAVE TO BE PINKISH.
IF NOT, YOU LOSE THE FLAVOR,
WE DID GOOD.
NOW YOU'RE STRONG.
NOW I'M STRONG. I'M READY.
YEAH.
ONE CHEF, ONE SEATING, ONE PRICE--
THEY ARE ABLE TO DO FRUIT
THAT YOU CAN SERVE IN A VERY EXPENSIVE RESTAURANT
BECAUSE HE HAS THE KNOWLEDGE AND THE TALENT.
♪ NO RESERVATIONS ♪
EVERYTHING IS FINE. EVERYTHING IS FINE.
NOTHING HAS CHANGED. CLASSICS--STILL HERE.
ALL GOOD, CONDITION NORMAL...
OR IS IT?
LES COCOTTES--OWNED BY CHEF CHRISTIAN CONSTANT
OF AN EARLIER GENERATION OF GREAT CHEFS
WHO ALSO OPTED TO LEAVE THE MICHELIN STARS BEHIND
AND OPT FOR MORE CASUAL, FRIENDLY,
NEIGHBORHOOD-ORIENTED DINING.
AND THIERRY MARX, THE FEARSOMELY BRILLIANT,
FORWARD-THINKING NEW CHEF WHO'S BEEN EXPLORING
A NEW MOLECULAR STYLE OF GASTRONOMY
WITHOUT ANY STABILIZERS OR ARTIFICIALS.
ON THE SURFACE,
TWO GUYS WHO ARE AS DIFFERENT AS CAN BE, BUT...
WHAT'S GOING ON IN PARIS WITH GASTRONOMY,
WITH THIS MOVE TOWARDS MORE CASUAL--
WHAT DOES IT ALL MEAN?
(speaking French)
MY MEMORIES OF FRANCE--
IT WAS LIKE YOU WERE GOING TO THE TABLE,
AND YOU WERE SPENDING HOURS AND HOURS AND HOURS.
AND THEY'RE SAYING THAT THE TENDENCY TODAY
IS TO BE MUCH FASTER,
A LITTLE BIT LIKE WHAT WE DO IN--IN THE U.S.
OR IN NEW YORK, FOR INSTANCE,
(Anthony) WHAT A CHANGE.
CAN THE TWO SYSTEMS COEXIST?
(speaking French)
THEY DON'T WANT ANYONE TO TELL THEM WHAT TO DO.
AND MY OBSERVATION WAS, WELL, THAT HAS BEEN DONE
IN THE U.S. ALREADY A LONG TIME AGO.
WE HAVE BEEN PIONEERS IN THAT ASPECT.
RAVIOLI WITH MOUSSERON MUSHROOMS.
(group speaking French)
(Eric) THAT'S A MAGIC MUSHROOM.
MOUSSERON IS A TINY MUSHROOM THAT HAS SO MUCH FLAVOR.
JUST LIKE THE CUISINE, THE TASTE IN WINE
SEEMS TO BE CHANGING, AS WELL.
AND A BIG QUESTION THAT'S PRETTY MUCH UNAVOIDABLE
AND A-- (imitates scraping)
SO WHAT DO YOU THINK OF THE CORK
VERSUS SCREW?
IS THE CONNECTION TO THE CORK ENTIRELY EMOTIONAL
UH, ME, I BELIEVE--
I BELIEVE THE CORK IS IMPORTANT.
WHY AM I ASKING YOU?
NO, NO, I'M--I'M-- I'M FOR THE CORK.
I DON'T--FIRST OF ALL, I DON'T LIKE THE EXPERIENCE.
NO, NO, I'M ASKING YOU IF IT'S ENTIRELY EMOTIONAL.
IS THERE A FLAVOR DIFFERENCE?
(speaking French)
I FEEL BAD FOR YOU ON THIS SHOW. I REALLY DO.
YOU'RE CONSTANTLY FINDING YOURSELF IN THE POSITION
OF DEFENDING THE OLD WAY, AND IT'S JUST NOT RIGHT.
YOU KNOW WHAT I'M DISCOVERING? I'M OLD.
I DIDN'T REALIZE HOW OLD I WAS UNTIL--
UNTIL THIS TRIP TO PARIS. THIS IS A REVELATION.
(speaking French)
OH, HERE'S THE REAL DIFFERENCE.
THE DIFFERENCE IS-- IS--IS YOU'RE LESS LIKELY
TO GET LAID AFTER DINNER
IF--IF YOUR WINE IS A SCREW TOP.
(speaking French)
(Anthony) GOOD POINT. I MEAN...
(indistinct conversation)
WHERE ARE WE?
THE *** END OF NOWHERE, BEST I CAN TELL--
A NARROW, ONE-WAY, COBBLESTONE STREET IN--
WHAT'S THE NAME OF THIS NEIGHBORHOOD?
AND HERE WE ARE--
FRENCHIE, WHERE WE GET ONE OF OUR FIRST LOOKS
AT WHAT MIGHT BE THE FUTURE.
(Anthony) I LOVE THIS PLACE ALREADY, BECAUSE, YOU KNOW--
LOOK AT IT. IT LOOKS LIKE IT'S GONNA BE GOOD.
IF THIS IS THE FUTURE, I LIKE IT.
GOT ITS VEGETABLES, TOO.
(chuckles)
GRéGORY MARCHAND IS FRENCH--
FRENCH-BORN, FRENCH-TRAINED.
BUT UNLIKE MOST GENERATIONS WHO CAME BEFORE,
HE SPENT 18 MONTHS EARLY IN HIS CAREER
IN NEW YORK AT GRAMERCY TAVERN.
HE TALKS ABOUT BROOKLYN STYLE A LOT.
THE NAME DAVID CHANG COMES UP.
TRY TO IMAGINE A FRENCH CHEF
20 YEARS AGO, EVEN 10 YEARS AGO,
TALKING ADMIRINGLY ABOUT AN AMERICAN CHEF.
NAH.
WHAT'S GOING ON HERE?
ONE MENU, PRIX FIXE.
ONE SEATING FOR A COUPLE DOZEN PEOPLE.
ONE GUY COOKING.
MENU CHANGES EVERY DAY WITH THE MARKET.
THIS WAS NOT THE WAY
FINE DINING WAS SUPPOSED TO BE, RIGHT?
OR WRONG?
HIS HONEST IDEA WAS APPETIZER, MAIN COURSE, DESSERT.
SMOKED MACKEREL WITH ASPERGE SAUVAGE--
WILD ASPARAGUS.
IT'S AMAZING HOW GUYS WHO HAVE LUNCHEONETTE
WANTS TO DO HIGH-- HIGH END SOMETIMES,
AND GUYS FROM THE HIGH END WANT TO DO THE CONTRARY.
OH, THE SMELL IS GREAT, TOO.
YEAH.
AND ONE OF MY FAVORITE UNDERUTILIZED FISH--PRETTY.
MMM.
I LIKE THE TEXTURE.
UNNERVING.
THIS IS NO WAY TO GET RICH IN THE RESTAURANT BUSINESS,
BUT THIS GUY DOESN'T SEEM TO CARE.
IT'S REMARKABLE, THE COMPLETE LACK OF GREED.
I'LL MAKE JUST THIS MUCH MONEY.
IT'S JUST WHAT I NEED. THAT'S ENOUGH.
I DON'T NEED TO GET RICH.
BUT IT'S INTERESTING THAT THE GUY IS SO PASSIONATE.
HE THINKS ABOUT, OKAY, I'M INVESTING
ON QUALITY OF PRODUCTS,
MM-HMM.
AND HAVING ANOTHER COOK-- I DON'T CARE ABOUT THAT.
I'M STRONG ENOUGH. I'M YOUNG ENOUGH.
I'M THINKING ABOUT GIVING THE BEST TO MY CLIENT
IN TERMS OF INGREDIENTS FOR THE PRICE.
YEAH, I NEVER THOUGHT THAT WAY IN MY WHOLE LIFE.
ME, TOO.
IT'S WHY I-I ENDED UP WITH 38 COOKS.
IT WOULD FILL ME WITH TERROR. OOH, THAT LOOKS GOOD.
BEETS, RASPBERRIES,
HAZELNUTS,
AND THEN... (speaking indistinctly)
RIGHT.
I CAN'T IMAGINE HOW THIS IS GONNA TASTE, ACTUALLY.
I CAN'T--I MEAN, I'M LOOKING AT THE COMPONENTS,
AND I'M--MMM.
MM-HMM.
THEY REALLY GO WELL TOGETHER.
OH, ME, TOO.
♪♪
HAKE WITH A RAGOUT OF SPRING VEGETABLES--
IMPECCABLE.
OH, YES. IT'S REALLY PRETTY.
IT'S REFINED. THE FOOD IS VERY REFINED.
THEY ARE ABLE TO DO FRUIT THAT YOU CAN SERVE
IN A VERY EXPENSIVE RESTAURANT
BECAUSE HE HAS THE KNOWLEDGE AND THE TALENT.
A SIRLOIN OF BEEF PREPARED WITH LARDON,
AND SERVED ON A BASE OF PURéED BLACK RICE.
OH, YEAH.
NOW WHAT IS IT EXACTLY?
OH.
PURéED.
INTERESTING.
I'VE NEVER SEEN IT BEFORE.
THIS IS REALLY A GREAT IDEA.
ERIC'S THINKING ABOUT WHAT THIS MIGHT MEAN FOR THE FUTURE.
ME, I'M THINKING, AS I TEND TO DO
AFTER A COUPLE OF GLASSES OF GOOD WINE,
ABOUT THE AFTERLIFE.
I WAS CONSIDERING MAKING A MEAN CRACK ABOUT TYLER FLORENCE
AND ASKED ERIC, A PRACTICING BUDDHIST,
WHAT THIS MIGHT MEAN FOR MY QUALITY OF AFTERLIFE.
I'M A GOOD PERSON.
I DON'T THINK MY KARMA'S GONNA BE SO--
(bleep), I'M REALLY (bleep). AM I? WHAT DO YOU THINK?
AM I DOOMED?
WHAT DO YOU THINK I GOTTA DO TO CATCH UP?
(laughing) OH, I DON'T LIKE THAT EXPRESSION.
CAN'T YOU PAY IN ADVANCE?
TONY, LIVE YOUR LIFE.
ENJOY THE MOMENT. FORGET ABOUT THE KARMA.
I'LL BE REFILLING THE SALAD BAR AT T.G.I.Fridays
FOR, LIKE, A MILLION YEARS.
NO, IT WON'T BE LIKE THAT.
I'LL BE LIKE... (voice cracking) MORE BACON BITS, SIR?
IT'S GONNA BE MORE INTERESTING.
(normal voice) OH, MAN.
SO THAT'S SORT OF THE BEST-CASE SCENARIO.
NEXT UP, SHARING AN OLD FAVORITE
WITH ERIC AND HIS MENTOR.
AH, LOOK AT THAT. SEE, THAT'S SO NICE.
♪ NO RESERVATIONS ♪
BACK TO THE SLIGHTLY MORE FAMILIAR
SEEMS THE RIGHT WAY TO GO. I THOUGHT BUTCHER'S BREAKFAST.
NEIGHBORHOOD BUTCHER HUGO DESNOYER
SHOWED US AROUND HIS FANTASTIC BUTCHER SHOP,
THE KIND THAT USED TO BE MORE COMMON BACK IN THE DAY,
WHERE EVERYBODY KNOWS YOUR NAME, WHAT YOU LIKE,
WHERE THEY MAKE THEIR OWN SAUSAGES
AND CHARCUTERIE AND PATé,
WHERE THE BUTCHERS KNOW EXACTLY WHAT BEST TO DO
(Anthony) SO THIS IS THE MISSING INGREDIENT
EVEN IN REALLY GOOD AMERICAN BUTCHER SHOPS.
NO.
YOU EITHER CUT MEAT OR YOU DO THIS. YOU DON'T DO BOTH.
YEAH.
THIS (bleep) IS LIKE DISNEYLAND TO ME.
LESS SO TO ERIC, I'M GUESSING,
WHERE THIS KIND OF THING IS A BIRTHRIGHT.
BUT HE DESERVES A SOFT LANDING THIS MORNING
AND A HEALTHY BREAKFAST AFTER GETTING HIS *** GNAWED ON
BY A BUNCH OF ANGRY YOUNG ROBESPIERRES.
BREAKFAST IS WITH HUGO AT THE JOINT NEXT DOOR,
LE JEU DE QUILLES,
WHERE THE OWNER AND CHEF'S BUSINESS MODEL
IS VERY MUCH IN KEEPING WITH WHAT WE'VE BEEN
SEEING LATELY FROM THE MODERNS--
MENU CHANGES DAILY
BASED ENTIRELY ON WHAT'S AROUND AND WHAT'S GOOD.
TODAY, FRESHLY LAID ORGANIC EGGS,
PROSCIUTTO, FRESH SAUSAGE, AND PATA NEGRA--
THE FINEST IBERIAN HAM.
UH, WHAT TIME DO YOU START TO WORK IN THE MORNING?
IT DEPENDS, UH, WHAT DAY,
BUT, UH, THIS MORNING AT 5:00.
SO THIS IS LUNCH.
UH, YEAH, THIS-- I'M VERY HUNGRY.
OF COURSE, THIS BEING PARIS, NO BETTER TIME
FOR A NICE BOTTLE, AND I MEAN A VERY NICE BOTTLE,
OF WHITE WINE.
(Hugo speaking French)
MM-HMM.
(indistinct conversation)
NICE.
(speaking French)
NICE.
YEAH.
SO EASY TO FORGET WHAT AN EGG TASTES LIKE.
SIMPLE THINGS LIKE THAT, LIKE A REALLY GOOD EGG,
REALLY, REALLY GOOD HAM,
EXACTLY.
I HAVEN'T EATEN HAM LIKE THAT, I THINK--
I DON'T KNOW, MAYBE TEN YEARS.
YEAH.
OH, YES, THANK YOU, LORD--
SWEETBREADS, ONE OF MY FAVORITE THINGS,
THE CAREFULLY SAUTéED THYMUS GLAND
OF A YOUNG CALF,
A HANDFUL OF CHANTERELLE MUSHROOMS,
SOME WILD ASPARAGUS
SAUTéED IN WONDERFUL, WONDERFUL BUTTER.
OH.
NICE.
THIS IS EXCITING.
(indistinct conversation)
(speaking indistinctly)
YES, IT IS.
YEAH.
PARIS HAS BECOME EXACTLY THE OPPOSITE OF ITS REPUTATION.
PEOPLE ASSUME, INCLUDING ME,
YES.
YOU HAVE TO--IF YOU'RE GONNA EAT WELL HERE,
IT'S GONNA BE RIDICULOUSLY EXPENSIVE.
BUT THERE ARE CLEARLY A LOT OF OPTIONS NOW
WHERE YOU CAN EAT REALLY GOOD FOOD
YES.
OR REASONABLE.
I'M A LITTLE SAD. I FEEL I'VE MISSPENT MY LIFE.
PARIS?
WELL, YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN. I'M STANDING THERE WATCHING
PEOPLE IN FRONT OF THE BUTCHER SHOP WALK BY,
AND THEY SHAKE HANDS WITH THE BUTCHER.
"HEY, HOW ARE YOU DOING, HUGO?"
YOU KNOW, I DON'T LIVE IN A WORLD LIKE THAT,
WHERE EVERYBODY KNOWS THE BUTCHER'S NAME, AND YOU--
YOU GO INTO THE RESTAURANT, GO INTO A LITTLE SHOP
EVERY DAY AND SAY, "GEE, WHAT'S--WHAT DO YOU HAVE?"
"OH, TODAY WE HAVE..." (speaking indistinctly)
"OH, AND THESE BEAUTIFUL TOMATOES JUST CAME IN."
WELL, LOOK WHAT WE HAVE TO DO TO GET THOSE TOMATOES.
THAT IS TRUE.
AND YOU GOTTA ELBOW SOME OLD LADY IN THE FACE.
THEN OFF TO PARIS' ORIGINAL OPEN-AIR STREET MARKET--
RUE MOUFFETARD.
THIS IS STILL,
AS MUCH AS YOU CAN FIND IT ANYWHERE,
THE PARIS OF EMILE ZOLA--
THE SAGGING ROOFS, THE OLD BUILDINGS,
THE MERCHANTS IN THE STREETS.
AND I KNOW ERIC HAS BEEN NERVOUS ABOUT THIS,
MAKING TELEVISION WITH HIS MENTOR JOEL ROBUCHON.
HELL, ANYBODY WOULD BE NERVOUS.
HE'S PROBABLY THE MOST IMPORTANT CHEF
OF THE LAST 100 YEARS.
HE'S A MAN WITH A REPUTATION
FOR BEING UNCOMPROMISING,
DEMANDING OF THE VERY BEST.
(speaking French)
(Anthony) IS IT STILL POSSIBLE
TO GET GOOD PRODUCTS IN FRANCE
AS IT WAS 20, 30 YEARS AGO?
(Eric) HE SAYS IT IS NOSTALGIA ABOUT THE PAST,
AND PEOPLE SAYING IN THE PAST IT WAS BETTER,
BUT HE DOESN'T BELIEVE SO.
HE SAYS TODAY IT'S-- IT'S MUCH, MUCH EASIER TO--
SMALL PRODUCERS.
YES, SMALL PRODUCERS AGAIN, YES.
BUT THE DAY GOES SWIMMINGLY.
LIKE I SAID, I'M NERVOUS, TOO,
BUT WE WERE LUCKY ENOUGH TO HAVE PICKED THIS PLACE OUT
FOR OUR LUNCH-- LE PAPILLON--
ABOUT AS SIMPLE AS IT GETS.
(speaking French)
I LOVE THE IDEA.
(speaking French)
THEY'RE BEAUTIFUL, HUH?
YOU WERE MILES AHEAD,
YEARS AND YEARS AHEAD OF EVERYBODY ELSE, UH,
WITH THE ATELIER CONCEPT.
WHAT WAS THE INSPIRATION FOR THIS IDEA?
BUT WHERE I GOT LUCKY
IN THE "PLEASE MAKE ROBUCHON LIKE ME" DEPARTMENT,
WHERE I BLUNDERED INTO GREATNESS AND HIS GOOD GRACES,
WAS BY SIMPLY ORDERING AN OLD FAVORITE,
AN ALL TOO RARE, EVEN IN FRANCE, DISH
CALLED PIEDS PAQUETS--
A TRIPE AND PIG FOOT THING I LEARNED TO LOVE AT LE HALLES.
THE FACT THAT I, AN AMERICAN, WOULD ORDER SUCH A THING
COMES, APPARENTLY, AS A SURPRISE.
AH, LOOK AT THAT.
SEE, THAT'S SO NICE.
YOU CAN RECOMMEND TO AMERICANS WHO COME TO PARIS
OH, I WILL.
YES, YES, YES.
HERE'S THE THING ABOUT ROBUCHON.
YOU COULD, I GUESS, CALL HIM OLD GUARD.
BUT IT WAS ROBUCHON
WHO, WAY AHEAD OF EVERYBODY ELSE,
PIONEERED THE NEW DIRECTION
THAT EVERYBODY SEEMS TO BE FOLLOWING THESE DAYS.
WHILE HIS CONTEMPORARIES WERE STILL BUILDING
HAUTE CUISINE VERSIONS OF THE MUMMY'S TOMB,
HE WENT HIS OWN WAY WITH A REVOLUTIONARY BREAKTHROUGH
THAT CHANGED FINE DINING AND HOW WE EAT TODAY FOREVER.
(indistinct conversation)
COMING UP, WE SEE IF IÑAKI AIZPITARTE
IS ALL THEY SAY HE IS.
YEAH.
WANT TO KNOW WHAT I THOUGHT ABOUT PARIS?
UNSURPRISINGLY, I LIKED IT, BUT FOR ALL THE GRIM DETAILS,
CHECK OUT MY BLOG AT travelchannel.com.
♪ NO RESERVATIONS ♪
ALL IN ALL, ERIC SEEMS TO BE HAVING A GOOD TIME.
SURE, HE'S TAKEN A FEW SHOTS AT THE YOUNG'UNS...
(speaking French)
BUT THE MEETING WITH HIS MENTOR WENT WELL.
ROBUCHON HAS EVEN INVITED US TO L'ATELIER LATER IN THE WEEK.
SO LIFE IS GOOD.
THE ENGINE TURNS-- OH, I GET IT.
IT SOUNDS LIKE IT DIES, AND THEN YOU CAN
STEP ON THE GAS AGAIN, AND IT STARTS UP.
KIND OF A "SAVE THE PLANET" SORT OF A THING.
HOW LONG WERE YOU AT LA TOUR d'ARGENT?
THAT MUST HAVE BEEN GREAT, THOUGH,
'CAUSE YOU'RE SEEIN' DISHES THERE
OH, THE DUCK.
HEY, THAT DISH IS COMIN' BACK, MAN.
YEAH, I'M TELLIN' YA.
I NEVER THOUGHT I WOULD FIND MYSELF
IN THIS BIZARRO POSITION.
THERE YOU ARE. YOU'RE SITTING AT A TABLE
HAVING TO DEFEND YOURSELF
FOR RUNNING A 3-STAR MICHELIN RESTAURANT.
SERIOUSLY, YOU DON'T RUN A 3-STAR RESTAURANT
TO SCREW THE PEOPLE.
YOU DO THAT BY PASSION,
AND YOU DO THAT BECAUSE YOU WANT PEOPLE TO BE HAPPY, RIGHT?
IT WAS-- IT WAS INTERESTING.
I WAS SURPRISED.
LE CHATEAUBRIAND LOOKS LIKE, WELL, A PUB--
A NOISY, MINIMALLY DECORATED PUB
OR--OR WINE BAR.
TIME TO SEE IF THIS IÑAKI GUY IS THE HOT SHOT
THAT THE "FOODING" DUDE SEEMS TO THINK HE IS.
NOT FORMALLY TRAINED
AND PERSONALLY, ALONG WITH ONLY A COUPLE OF OTHER COOKS,
MANNING THE RIDICULOUSLY TINY KITCHEN,
IÑAKI AIZPITARTE HAS
A SINGLE PRIX FIXE MENU A DAY.
I'M NOT SURE WHAT IT MEANS. I'M A LITTLE SCARED.
IT MEANS THE WORLD IS CHANGING,
AND, UH, A YOUNG GENERATION
DOESN'T SEE, UH, WHAT WE DO, MAYBE,
WITH THE SAME REVERENCE.
IT IS TRUE THAT YOU CAN EAT GREAT FOOD IN BISTROS,
THAT SOMETIMES IT'S AS GOOD AS A 3-STAR.
I LOVE THE IDEA THAT ALL THESE PEOPLE
WHO CAN'T AFFORD HAUTE CUISINE ARE NOW ABLE TO EAT THIS WELL
THAT'S GOOD NEWS.
BUT IT REALLY WAS LIKE MEETING A YOUNG TROTSKY.
IT COULD BE OUR HEAD ON A PIKE--
WELL, NOT ME. YOUR... (laughing)
♪♪
A SMALL AMUSE-BOUCHE.
OH, NOW THAT'S BEAUTIFUL.
CARPACCIO-- I THINK IT'S BEEF--
FRESH FAVAS AND FRESH GREEN PEAS
FAVAS, PEAS, AND ANCHOVIES.
IT'S REALLY GOOD.
A ROUGET DISH
THAT'S LIKE A SMALL RED MULLET
OF TRULY EXTRAORDINARY FRESHNESS AND QUALITY.
THERE. FROM WHAT I UNDERSTOOD BEFORE,
HE'S USING THE LIVER OF THE--THE ROUGET,
RIGHT.
UH-HUH.
BUT THE ROUGET, THE QUALITY OF IT
IS AMAZING.
UH-HUH.
VEGETABLES REALLY TASTE DIFFERENT IN EUROPE.
I CANNOT EXPLAIN WHY.
WHAT'S WRONG WITH US? I MEAN, YOU KNOW, WE'RE THE NEW WORLD.
WE'RE THE LAND OF-- OF EVERYTHING. WHY...
UH, NO.
AND THEN THIS-- THIS THING,
A NEARLY ALL-WHITE DISH OF WHITE SEA BREAM
WITH WHITE ASPARAGUS, MASCARPONE CHEESE,
AND BROWN BUTTER.
AND IT'S (bleep) AMAZING. IT'S DEVASTATING.
I DON'T WANT TO EMBARRASS MY FRIEND,
BUT I SWEAR I SAW THE RIPERT'S EYES FILLED
WITH WHAT LOOKED LIKE TEARS THERE FOR A BRIEF SECOND.
YOU KNOW WHAT I REALLY LIKE ABOUT THIS PLATE RIGHT OFF?
IT'S ALL WHITE.
HE'S USING FLOWERS
OF A TREE CALLED SUREAU.
ELDERFLOWERS.
ELDERFLOWERS.
WELL, THIS IS SHOCKINGLY GOOD.
YEAH.
(speaking indistinctly)
AND FLAVORFUL.
YEAH.
I MEAN, THAT SHOULDN'T WORK, BUT IT REALLY DOES.
ELDERFLOWER, MASCARPONE, WHITE ASPARAGUS--
ON THE VERGE OF BEING... (speaking indistinctly)
FOR TEXTURE.
TH-THIS IS A REALLY AMAZING DISH.
YEAH.
AND WHEN YOU CAN COME UP WITH A DISH LIKE THAT,
YEAH.
IF I WAS LUCKY ENOUGH TO DISCOVER THAT ONCE IN MY LIFE,
NO, NEVER.
I MEAN, I WISH I COULD HAVE INVENTED A DISH LIKE THAT.
THIS SEEMINGLY AUSTERE BOWL
OF FRESH ALMONDS AND MACHE
BROUGHT BETWEEN COURSES WAS ALSO DECEPTIVELY AWESOME.
ERIC WAS TALKIN' ABOUT THIS ONE DAYS LATER, TOO.
FRESH ALMONDS AND MACHE.
THIS IS CLEARLY MAKING YOU HAPPY.
IT'S WHAT WE LIKE ABOUT DINING,
RIGHT.
IS TO BE SURPRISED, TO HAVE AN EXPERIENCE.
AND THAT'S HARD TO DO TO US. COME ON.
THIS IS FINE CUISINE.
THE WAY HE'S COOKING IS REALLY, REALLY UPSCALE.
IT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH BISTRO FOOD.
I WOULD HAVE BEEN REALLY, REALLY HAPPY
YEAH.
THIS IS WAY BETTER THAN I EXPECTED.
THIS IS AN AMAZING CUISINE.
I MEAN, THE GUY IS, LIKE, A GREAT CHEF.
HE'S USING A VERY ORGANIC WAY OF COOKING.
I HAVEN'T SEEN ANYTHING INSPIRED BY SUPER-MODERN CUISINE,
LIKE MOLECULAR OR WHATEVER YOU CALL IT.
IN ORDER TO BE A TRUE REVOLUTIONARY,
YOU HAVE TO BE WILLING TO COMPLETELY DESTROY THE OLD.
I DON'T THINK ANY OF THESE GUYS
IS INTERESTED IN DOING THAT.
YES.
YEAH, ME, TOO.
♪♪
NEXT, MORE OF THE BEST THAT PARIS HAS TO OFFER.
OH, LOOK AT THAT. OH, YEAH, WOW.
COME TO DADDY. OH, LORD, THAT'S GOOD.
♪ NO RESERVATIONS ♪
THE HARDEST RESERVATION IN PARIS, THEY SAY,
IS NOT AT SOME ULTRA-EXPENSIVE TEMPLE OF GASTRONOMY.
IT'S AT THIS PLACE, LE COMPTOIR,
WHAT ERIC HAS CALLED THE PERFECT BISTRO.
SADLY, MY PARTNER IN CRIME IS UNAVAILABLE.
HE'S OFF ON SOME SORT
OF SUPER-SECRET BUDDHIST THING, I THINK.
I DO KNOW
THAT I GOTTA DO THE COMPTOIR THING MYSELF.
ERIC CAN'T NETWORK ME A RESERVATION,
BUT MAYBE THIS GUY CAN.
FRéDéRIC CONNE RUNS
WHAT LOOKS LIKE AN OLD-SCHOOL WINE SHOP.
AND HE LOOKS LIKE AN OLD-SCHOOL WINE GUY.
HE'S ALSO VERY GOOD FRIENDS
WITH THE ELUSIVE CHEF-OWNER OF LE COMPTOIR
YVES CAMDEBORDE.
LIKE SO MANY OF THE OTHER CHEFS WE'RE MEETING ON THIS TRIP,
CAMDEBORDE USED TO RUN A MORE HAUTE CUISINE KITCHEN,
BUT AFTER 12 YEARS DECIDED HE'D HAD ENOUGH
AND WANTED TO OPEN A MORE CASUAL PLACE.
(Anthony) WHY HAVE YOU CHOSEN THIS PATH?
(speaking French)
LIKE A MUSEUM, YEAH.
THIS IS A VERY AFFORDABLE RESTAURANT, LE COMPTOIR.
HOW IMPORTANT IS THAT?
LATER THAT NIGHT, RESERVATION SECURED,
I ARRIVE EARLY-- TOO EARLY.
BUT NO PROBLEM.
GOOD THING, ACTUALLY,
'CAUSE RIGHT NEXT DOOR THERE'S L'AVANT COMPTOIR--
THAT MEANS "BEFORE LE COMPTOIR," BY THE WAY--
AND I JAM MYSELF IN THERE WITH A BUNCH OF OTHER PEOPLE
WHO ARE GETTING LOOSE BEFORE THEY SIT DOWN FOR DINNER
OR WAITING FOR A TABLE
OR JUST LIKE MUNCHIN' ON SMALL PLATES
OF SOME TASTY, TASTY (bleep).
NOTICE THE COMMUNAL BREAD AND STICK OF BUTTER.
JUST SQUEEZE IN AND GRAB AND SMEAR.
OH, MAN, THAT BUTTER IS SO GOOD WITH THAT.
ORDER UP SOME CURED MEAT--
I CAN'T TELL YOU HOW HAPPY-MAKING THIS IS.
♪♪
YOU KNOW THAT THE PLACE IS GONNA BE GOOD, BECAUSE NEXT DOOR,
THEY'RE A LITTLE, UH... L'AVANT COMPTOIR.
THEIR LOGO IS THE PIG.
IT'S LIKE A SECRET SIGN.
FRéDéRIC SAYS HE'LL SWING BY AS SOON AS HE CAN,
BUT I RIP RIGHT INTO MY MEAL.
OH, NICE.
A LITTLE AMUSE-BOUCHE OF FOIE GRAS.
OH, LORD, THAT'S GOOD.
THEN CRAB, FLYING FISH EGGS,
AND SPRING VEGETABLES IN A FOIE GRAS GELéE.
AH, MERCI.
THAT'S PRETTY.
MMM. WOW.
(laughs)
HOW IS EVERYTHING?
THEN A RAVIOLI OF BLOOD SAUSAGE
WITH AN ESPELETTE-INFUSED BROTH THAT IS ONE OF THE BEST THINGS
I'VE TASTED ALL YEAR.
AH. OOH. WOW.
OH, LOOK AT THAT.
OH, THAT'S BLEEDING IN. OH, YEAH.
I AM SUCH A *** FOR BLOOD SAUSAGE.
COME TO ME, MY LOVE.
IT'S RIDICULOUSLY GOOD.
FRéDéRIC TELLS ME THAT AS WELL AS THE EVENING PRIX FIXE,
THIS PLACE ALSO HAS A SIMPLE BISTRO MENU DURING THE DAY.
AND HE COMES PRETTY MUCH DAILY FOR ONE THING IN PARTICULAR.
OEUFS MAYONNAISE.
FANTASTIC.
WHICH, BY THE WAY, IS DEVILED EGGS.
HE DO THE BEST OEUFS MAYONNAISE OF THE WORLD.
ROASTED VEAL LOIN WITH SALTED BUTTER,
SAUTéED CHANTERELLE, SHALLOTS, AND CHIVES
WITH AN ALMOND AND RHUBARB JUS.
I LIKE MY FRIEND.
YEAH, REALLY.
I HOPE THIS IS THE FUTURE.
I HOPE, TOO.
YOU HAVE TO EAT SIMPLE,
FRESH PRODUCT--
MM.
I AGREE.
MY STRONGEST MEMORIES OF MY FATHER WERE...
WE WOULD--WE WOULD COME TO FRANCE.
WE WOULD EAT IN GOOD RESTAURANTS.
WE WOULD EAT AROUND.
BUT MY FATHER WAS HAPPIEST
WHEN WE WOULD GO TO, UH, THE BEACH,
UH, AND WE WOULD GO FOR A PICNIC.
AND WE WOULD BRING SOME GOOD SAUCISSON,
SOME GOOD, UH, CHEESE,
SOME--SOME WINE-- VIN ORDINAIRE--
AND THIS WAS WHEN MY FATHER WAS HAPPIEST,
WHEN I WOULD LOOK IN HIS FACE AND HE WAS LIKE THIS.
AND HE WOULD ALWAYS SAY THE SAME THING.
HE WOULD SAY, UH, "I AM A MAN OF SIMPLE NEEDS."
THIS WAS PERFECT FOR HIM.
OH, WOW.
IT'S ABSOLUTELY PERFECT PRODUCT,
IMPECCABLY PREPARED, IMPECCABLY PRESENTED.
OUI.
OH, MAN.
ALL RIGHT.
OKAY, IF THERE'S ANY QUESTION
IN THE ENDURING GLORY OF FRANCE,
MEANING WHY FRANCE SHOULD REMAIN A WORLD POWER FOREVER,
IT'S THIS.
LOOK AT THIS.
I HOPE THIS IS ALL FOR US,
OH, I KNOW.
I GET A CHANCE AT THE END TO THANK YVES IN PERSON.
çA VA?
HA!
(speaks indistinctly)
WHAT A JOY. WHAT A PLEASURE.
AND FINALLY, THE MASTER SHOWS EVERYONE
YOU CAN SMELL IT. IT'S GONNA BE FANTASTIC.
COOKED TO PERFECTION, TOO. LOOK AT THAT. PERFECTION.
♪ NO RESERVATIONS ♪
I'VE DONE THINGS IN MY LIFE.
OKAY, I HAVEN'T WALKED ON THE MOON,
BUT I'VE SEEN AND BEEN WITNESS TO
SOME EXTRAORDINARY THINGS.
BUT ON THE DAY I GET HIT BY AN ICE CREAM TRUCK
AND DRAGGED UP INTO THE WHEEL WELL,
AS I LAY THERE IN THE STREET BLEEDING OUT,
I WILL REMEMBER THE DAY
I ATE AT L'ATELIER de JOEL ROBUCHON
WITH JOEL ROBUCHON
STANDING IN FRONT OF ME
PERSONALLY SUPERVISING EACH (bleep) DISH.
♪♪
UNDERSTAND THIS--
L'ATELIER de JOEL ROBUCHON
ARE MORE CASUAL IN DINING STYLE,
BUT THE FOOD COMING OVER THAT BAR--
AS GOOD AS ANYTHING ANYWHERE.
YOU'RE SPENDING YOUR MONEY ON FOOD,
NOT ON 20 DAMN WAITERS AND FLORAL ARRANGEMENTS.
IT'S FINE DINING, THE FINEST, WITHOUT THE PAIN
OR THE ATTITUDE.
AND, DAMN, IT'S MADE FINE DINING FUN AGAIN.
WE STARTED WITH ROBUCHON'S GAZPACHO.
GAZPACHO, C'EST çA.
YES.
IT'S SO HARMONIOUS.
THAT IS HIS STYLE.
LIKE, TO CREATE, LIKE, A VERY HARMONIOUS COMBINATION
ALL THE TIME.
THE NEW WAVE OF YOUNG GUYS WORKING ALONE IN THEIR KITCHENS,
ARE THEY ANY DIFFERENT THAN-- THAN HE WAS AS A YOUNG MAN?
(speaking French)
HE SAID THAT IT'S GREAT THAT A LOT OF YOUNG PEOPLE
ARE GOING INTO THE BUSINESS
WITHOUT BEING NECESSARILY TRAINED
AND LEARNING THE BASICS.
OUT OF THOSE PEOPLE, THE MAJORITY, AT ONE POINT,
IS GOING TO BE BLOCKED, BECAUSE THE LACK OF THE TRAINING
THAT YOU NEED TO DO, COOKING AT THIS LEVEL.
BUT, YES, IN HIS CAREER, IT'S A LOT OF PEOPLE
WHO ARE SO PASSIONATE, AT ONE POINT,
THEY DECIDED TO LEARN THE BASICS,
EVEN AFTER OLDER AGE, AND HE SAW THEM,
EVEN IN HIS KITCHEN, AND SOME OF THEM EVEN WENT FURTHER.
HOWEVER, HE BELIEVES THAT REALLY, AT THE END OF THE DAY,
YOU SHOULD START AT A YOUNG AGE
TO HAVE THE RIGHT TRAINING, AND THEN YOU WILL BE ABLE
TO GO MUCH FURTHER,
(speaking French)
SOLE MEUNIèRE--
AS CLASSIC AS IT GETS,
CLASSIC TO THE POINT THAT FEW PEOPLE DO IT RIGHT ANYMORE.
A BEAUTIFUL DOVER SOLE
PAN-FRIED ON THE BONE IN BUTTER
AND SERVED WITH BROWN BUTTER AND A LITTLE LEMON.
TRUST ME, THIS IS A FORGOTTEN ART.
YOU CAN SMELL IT. IT'S GONNA BE FANTASTIC.
YEAH. IT'S COOKED TO PERFECTION, TOO. LOOK AT THAT.
PERFECTION.
(laughs)
WELL, HE WASN'T BEFORE.
MERCI. OH, BEAUTIFUL.
(speaks indistinctly)
FABULEUX.
AND THE FAMOUS, THE NOTORIOUS,
ROBUCHON MASHED POTATOES.
OH, GOOD.
I WOULD HAVE BEEN VERY UPSET IF I DIDN'T GET THIS.
(Joel) VOILà.
WHAT PERCENTAGE OF THESE POTATOES ARE BUTTER?
(speaking French)
(speaking French)
(glasses clink)
THIS TRIP IN PARIS
IS ACTUALLY SOMETHING, I MUST SAY.
BECAUSE THIS WAS REALLY ACTUALLY KIND OF A LITTLE--
IT WAS LIKE A REMINDER OF THIS--THIS--THIS...
TIGHTROPE YOU HAVE TO WALK.
WHAT HAVE WE LEARNED TODAY?
THAT'S THE JOKE AROUND THE OFFICE
WHEN WE TRY TO SUM UP A PLACE.
BUT IN PARIS, 99 SHOWS AFTER OUR VERY FIRST ONE,
IT SEEMS A FAIR QUESTION.
A LOT OF WHAT WE WERE WARY ABOUT PARIS
SEEMS TO HAVE DISAPPEARED OR BE DISAPPEARING.
THE ATTITUDE, THE HIDEBOUND WAYS,
THE SENSE THAT YOU MUST DO THIS LIKE THIS, YOU CANNOT DO THAT,
IT IS NOT FRENCH--
THAT WAY OF THINKING SEEMS TO BE ON ITS WAY OUT.
BUT THE REAL QUESTION IS NOT WHAT I'VE LEARNED IN PARIS.
I DON'T HAVE THE BURDEN OF MICHELIN STARS,
A WORLD-RENOWNED RESTAURANT TO LIVE UP TO.
WHAT DOES ERIC TAKE FROM THIS, IS WHAT I'M CURIOUS TO SEE.
WHAT HAS HE SEEN AFTER REVISITING HIS PAST
AND LOOKING INTO A POSSIBLE FUTURE?
AND HOW DOES HE PROCESS THAT BACK HOME?