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THE VACATION GONE WRONG IN PARIS
IS ALMOST ALWAYS BECAUSE PEOPLE TRY TO DO TOO MANY THINGS.
OH, WE HAVE TO GO TO THE LOUVRE. WE GOTTA GO UP THE EIFFEL TOWER.
NOW ALREADY YOU'RE TALKING--
YOU'RE WAITING IN LINE TO GO UP AN ELEVATOR,
STAND THERE WITH A BUNCH OF OTHER CROWDS.
THE FACT IS IT'S A PRETTY PUNISHING AFTERNOON.
TO ME IT'S LIKE, OKAY, GO TO PARIS.
I'M GOING TO CHECK INTO A NICE HOTEL.
AND MY PLAN IS I'M GONNA
EAT SOME (bleep) CHEESE, AND I'M GONNA GET DRUNK.
THIS IS GOOD. I'LL HAVE MORE OF THIS.
YOU ARE ALMOST GUARANTEED TO HAVE A REALLY GOOD TIME.
♪ 24 HOURS TO GET BACK TO YOU ♪
Closed Captions provided by Scripps Networks, LLC.
Captioned by Closed Captioning Services, Inc.
(Anthony) PARIS AND THE FRENCH ARE EASY TO GET WRONG.
♪ YEAH ♪
I MEAN, IT'S HARD TO RESIST. AFTER ALL, THEY'RE FRENCH.
YOU FEEL OBLIGED TO EMBRACE THE STEREOTYPE.
AND OF COURSE, TO SOME EXTENT THE STEREOTYPES ARE TRUE.
(film projector clicking)
INDULGENT, ARTY, SOCIALIST,
WHAT WITH THEIR FREE MEDICAL CARE
AND THEIR LONG VACATIONS AND THEIR UN-AMERICAN PROPENSITY
FOR HIGH QUALITY OF LIFE.
THEY SUFFER FROM THE BURDEN OF A TRADITION
OF FABULOUSLY OOZING CHEESES, RICH SAUCES,
HISTORIC WINES,
THE KIND OF THING THAT TENDS TO PIGEONHOLE A CULTURE,
MAKE YOU THINK IT'S ALL LUXURY AND SODOMY.
BUT IT AIN'T ALL SNOOTY WAITERS
AND HAUTE CUISINE.
IN FACT, THAT (bleep) IS MOSTLY ALL GONE.
YOU CAN GO TO PARIS
AND ACTUALLY HAVE A REALLY GREAT TIME.
PEOPLE ARE ACTUALLY NICER.
GOOD FOOD IS CHEAPER AND MORE CASUAL.
YOU CAN EVEN GET A DECENT HAMBURGER.
YOU CAN STILL GET THE GOOD OLD STUFF,
JUST A LOT OF THE BULL-(bleep) SEEMS TO HAVE GONE THE WAY
OF THE WOOLLY MAMMOTH.
THE FOOD SCENE IN PARIS TODAY
IN SOME WAYS FEELS WAY MORE LIKE BROOKLYN--
INDEPENDENT AND SURPRISINGLY CASUAL.
PARIS HAS TWO AIRPORTS--
CHARLES de GAULLE AND ORLY.
YOU'LL PROBABLY BE LANDING AT CHARLES de GAULLE AIRPORT
ABOUT 30 MILES NORTH OF THE CITY CENTER.
EASIEST AND MOST EXPENSIVE WAY OUT IS BY TAXI.
THAT COULD TAKE YOU UP TO AN HOUR IN TRAFFIC
AND RUN ABOUT 60 EURO.
THERE'S ALSO THE R.E.R. TRAIN LINE.
THAT'S A 30-MINUTE HIGH-SPEED TRAIN
THAT WILL DROP YOU IN A CENTRAL LOCATION IN PARIS.
THE CHEAPEST OPTION TO ESCAPE THE AIRPORT
IS THE RoissyBus,
ALSO KNOWN AS THE OPERA BUS.
IT PICKS UP EVERY 15 MINUTES FROM EACH TERMINAL
AND DROPS YOU AT THE OPERA HOUSE IN PARIS
FOR ABOUT 9 EURO.
THERE ARE 20 QUARTIER IN PARIS.
AND IT'S LIKE A SNAIL,
SO YOU COUNT IT FROM THE INSIDE OUT.
NOW HERE'S THE THING ABOUT HOTELS IN PARIS.
YOU CAN GO THE HENRY MILLER ROUTE
AND WALLOW ROMANTICALLY IN SQUALOR
OR LIVE IT UP BIG-TIME.
AND LUXURY IN PARIS-- THEY'VE STILL GOT THAT.
FOR A LUXURIOUS, HIGH-END OPTION,
THERE'S THE ELEGANTLY DISCRETE HOTEL PARTICULIER
LOCATED IN THE HEART OF THE HISTORIC MONTMARTRE,
NESTLED IN A SECRET ALLEYWAY
KNOWN AS THE WITCH'S ROCK PASSAGE.
FOR MORE BASIC, TRY THE PROMISINGLY NAMED
HOTEL AMOUR,
STYLISH AND REASONABLY PRICED
WITH A DECENT RESTAURANT DOWNSTAIRS.
MANY MUSICIANS STAY HERE ON TOUR,
MAKING IT CASUAL AND TOLERANT, ONE WOULD ASSUME,
OF UNUSUAL NOISES COMING FROM YOUR ROOM.
HERE'S THE THING,
COMING TO PARIS, YOU WANT TO SEE THE LEFT BANK.
OF COURSE YOU DO. COME ON.
SAINT-MICHEL, SAINT-GERMAIN, TINY, NARROW, LITTLE STREETS--
GO THERE. GET SOME CHEESE. GET SOME SHELLFISH.
GET (bleep) UP.
THEN YOU'RE THINKING ABOUT NOTRE DAME.
SHOULD I CLIMB NOTRE DAME?
NO.
NO, YOU SHOULDN'T.
YOU SHOULD WALK PAST IT,
QUICKLY GET A PHOTOGRAPH OF YOURSELF
IN FRONT OF NOTRE DAME.
TOTAL TIME INVESTMENT-- SEVEN MINUTES.
HAVE A CONE. GO HAVE SEX WITH A FRENCH PERSON.
NOTRE DAME? NAH.
THE ABSOLUTE WORST THING TO DO WHEN YOU COME TO PARIS
IS PLAN TOO MUCH.
EIFFEL TOWER, NOTRE DAME,
l'ARC de TRIOMPHE--
STAND IN LINE FOR HOURS TO EXPERIENCE
WHAT EVERYBODY SAYS YOU HAVE TO.
ME, I LIKE TO TAKE IT EASY IN PARIS,
ESPECIALLY IF I'M ONLY IN TOWN FOR A FEW DAYS.
THIS IS A WALKING CITY,
AND IT'S NICE TO STROLL THROUGH THE DIFFERENT NEIGHBORHOODS,
HANG OUT AT A CAFé AND WATCH THE WORLD GO BY.
I DUCK INTO A PLACE NEAR MY HOTEL,
LE PURE CAFé, FOR A COUPLE OF CUPS OF THE GOOD STUFF.
FEEL FREE TO ACCOMPANY THIS WITH A SHOT OF CALVADOS,
BY THE WAY. C'EST NORMAL.
BON JOUR. CAFé CRèME, S'IL VOUS PLAIT.
IN THIS CITY, COFFEE IS ACTUALLY RENT.
THE IDEA IS YOU MILK THAT ONE CUP FOR AS LONG AS YOU LIKE,
TAKING UP SOME PRIME REAL ESTATE WHILE PEOPLE-WATCHING.
DON'T WORRY. THEY WON'T MIND. EVERYBODY DOES IT.
CAN'T OPERATE WITHOUT COFFEE.
COFFEE CULTURE IS DEADBEAT CULTURE.
IT'S LAPTOPISTAN WITHOUT THE LAPTOPS.
ANOTHER GREAT CAFé IN LE MARAIS
IS AU PETIT FER à CHEVAL.
THE NAME OF THIS LITTLE CAFé LITERALLY MEANS "HORSESHOE"
AFTER ITS HORSESHOE-SHAPED MARBLE BAR.
TUCKED IN THE LE MARAIS
ON THE RAMBLING RUE VIEILLE du TEMPLE,
IT'S BEEN AROUND FOR CLOSE TO 120 YEARS.
FORTUNATELY, NOT MUCH HAS CHANGED
SINCE IT OPENED ITS DOORS.
NOSTALGIC RECLAIMED METRO BENCHES IN THE BACK
FOR SEATS,
SMOKY MIRRORS, AND OLD FILM POSTERS.
ANOTHER? ENCORE? S'IL VOUS PLAIT?
IT'S ONE OF THOSE UNFORTUNATE INCIDENTS,
YOU KNOW, THAT I SPEAK FRENCH,
AND HE SPEAKS BACK TO ME IN ENGLISH, SO (bleep).
IF NOTHING ELSE,
MY COFFEE-ORDERING SKILLS ARE (bleep) IMPECCABLE.
GIVE ME THAT AT LEAST.
HOPPED UP ON FRENCH ROAST,
I HEAD OUT TO GRAB SOME LUNCH.
ABOUT THE CLASSIC FRENCH BISTRO
I AM A SENTIMENTAL FOOL.
AND TEN YEARS AGO IT WOULD HAVE BEEN THE OBVIOUS CHOICE
FOR MY LUNCH.
BUT SOMETHING HAS BEEN HAPPENING
TO THAT CLASSIC FRENCH BISTRO.
THOUGH LARGELY UNCHANGED ON THE OUTSIDE,
THE KITCHENS AND IDEAS ARE IN THE MIDST OF A REVOLUTION.
I'M MEETING UP WITH LOUIS DABOUSSY,
A WELL-RESPECTED FOOD CRITIC
AT "LE FOODING" MAGAZINE,
A MAGAZINE AND SOMEWHAT UNCONVENTIONAL GUIDEBOOK
THAT'S TURNED INTO SOMETHING OF A MOVEMENT IN RECENT YEARS.
HEY, HOW YOU DOING?
HOW YOU DOING?
WE ARE MEETING AT AU PASSAGE IN THE 11th QUARTIER.
THE MENU'S SMALL, THE WINE'S YOUNG,
AND THE PRICE TAG CHEAP-- REALLY CHEAP.
WHAT'S CHANGED HERE?
I MEAN, THERE SEEMS TO BE A DEMOCRATIZATION
OF--OF EATING WELL.
WE ARE QUITE BORED WITH THE FRENCH TRADITION,
LIKE, THE WHOLE ETIQUETTE CHEF
AND ETIQUETTE FINE DINING AND EVERYTHING.
SO A LOT OF THINGS ARE--ARE HAPPENING
WITH SPONTANEITY AND EASY DINING,
BUT IT'S VERY GOOD AT THE CENTER OF THE TABLE.
THE LUNCH AT AU PASSAGE IS REFRESHINGLY SIMPLE
OFFERING ONLY PRIX FIXE MEALS
WITH A CHOICE OF JUST TWO ENTRéES.
TODAY WE HAVE A CHOICE-- FISH OR VEAL.
THE APPETIZER, A WHELK AND POTATO SALAD,
THE CHEESE PLATE, AND THE DESSERT ARE THE SAME.
THE PHILOSOPHY HERE IS SIMPLICITY
AND EMBRACING A SORT OF CREATIVITY
AND SEASONAL FRESHNESS
THAT'S EVIDENT IN THEIR CHANGING DAILY MENU.
MMM, GOOD.
IT'S PART OF THE RANDOMNESS, YOU KNOW?
IT'S--IT'S--WHICH--WHICH IS IMPORTANT FOR SPONTANEITY.
BEING--A LITTLE-- A LITTLE RANDOMNESS
AND ALSO MISTAKES IS IMPORTANT TO STAY SPONTANEOUS.
IT DOESN'T HAVE TO BE PERFECT EVERY--ALL THE TIME.
SO CONSISTENCY IS OVERRATED,
NOT SO IMPORTANT?
IT CAN IMPLY RIGIDITY AND, UH, AND A WAY OF COOKING
THAT--THAT DOESN'T ALLOW SPON--SPONTANEITY.
AND--AND BEING LOOSE AND, UH,
ALLOW HIMSELF A MISTAKE...
RIGHT.
YEAH, THAT'S BASICALLY ABOUT LIBERTY
OF--OF CREATION, YOU KNOW?
IT'S A BIG CHANGE
IN THE--THE MENTALITY OF RESTAURANTS.
BECAUSE THIS GOES COMPLETELY CONTRARY
TO THE--THE PHILOSOPHY OF HAUTE CUISINE,
WHICH IS IT MUST ALWAYS TASTE EXACTLY THE SAME.
NONE OF THAT IS TRUE ANYMORE.
THAT'S A BIG CHANGE, INDEED.
SO THAT'S QUITE A REVOLUTION IN CUISINE.
ANOTHER EQUALLY EXCELLENT OPTION WHEN IN PARIS
IS TO WANDER THROUGH RUE MONTORGUEIL,
ONE OF THE LAST REMAINING REAL MARKET STREETS
OF THE OLD LES HALLES.
HERE YOU'LL FIND EXCELLENT BUTCHER SHOPS,
OLD BOULANGERIE, PâTISSERIE,
AND FROMAGERIE, OR CHEESEMONGERS.
ASK FOR THEIR ADVICE ON BEST, STINKIEST CHEESE,
GET A BAGUETTE AND SOME CHARCUTERIE,
AND HEAD OUT TO ONE OF THE MANY PARKS
OR PATCHES OF GRASS ALONG THE SEINE.
BUT THIS AFTERNOON FOR ME, IT'S A WONDERFUL VEAL LUNCH.
IF FRIENDS OF YOURS ARE COMING TO PARIS
FOR TWO DAYS, WHAT WOULD YOU RECOMMEND?
YEAH, WELL, IF SOME FRIENDS COME AND--
AND DON'T WANT TO ONLY EAT ALL DAY,
I WILL ADVISE THEM TO--
TO TAKE THE-- THE ARTISTIC SCENE IN PARIS.
THE--IT HAS BEEN MOVING A LOT ALSO IN THE PAST YEARS,
AND A LOT OF NEW PLACES HAVE BEEN OPENING.
NEW ART.
YEAH, NEW ONES.
EIFFEL TOWER. SHOULD ONE GO OR NOT?
I DON'T KNOW. LIKE EVERY PARISIAN,
I'VE NOT BEEN THERE SINCE I'M 5.
I'D SAY SKIP IT.
YEAH. WHY NOT? YEAH. I THINK IT'S BEAUTIFUL TO SEE,
BUT YOU SEE-- YOU SEE IT EVERYWHERE.
YEAH. YEAH.
YOU DON'T HAVE TO CLIMB IT.
AND YOU CAN GET A SIMILAR VIEW
FROM THE TOP FLOOR OF YOUR HOTEL.
YEAH.
DEFINITELY.
AND THIS IS YET ANOTHER REASON
YOU KINDA HAVE TO LOVE PARIS,
THE OBLIGATORY, MUST-HAVE,
IF YOU DON'T ORDER IT YOU'RE (bleep) NUTS,
CHEESE PLATE AT THE END OF THE MEAL.
HOW COULD YOU NOT LOVE THIS?
I POSTED ON MY, I THINK, MY FACEBOOK PAGE
THAT I'M COMING HERE.
AND THERE WERE, LIKE, A COUPLE OF HUNDRED COMMENTS IN RESPONSE.
AND SOMEBODY POSTED,
JUST ONE THAT SAID, "PARIS BLOWS. PARIS SUCKS."
AND I WAS LIKE, WHAT DOES IT SAY ABOUT A PERSON
THAT THEY COULD COME TO THIS CITY
AND SPEND ANY AMOUNT OF TIME,
NO MATTER HOW MISERABLE AN EXPERIENCE,
NO MATTER HOW MANY THINGS WENT WRONG,
AND--AND COME AWAY THINKING THAT?
I-I-IT'S REALLY-- IT'S LIKE SAYING...
YEAH.
MUSIC SUCKS OR SEX IS COMPLETELY OVERRATED.
I-IT'S-- IT'S UNTHINKABLE TO ME.
♪♪
♪♪
PARIS HAS ONE OF THE LARGEST
AND BUSIEST METRO SYSTEMS IN ALL OF EUROPE.
AND EVEN FOR MY LAZY *** IT'S HARD TO ARGUE
THAT IT'S A PRETTY DAMN CONVENIENT WAY TO GET AROUND.
TICKETS ARE SOLD AT KIOSKS
AND AUTOMATED MACHINES IN THE STATION,
AND EACH TICKET COMES WITH A FREE TRANSFER
WITHIN AN HOUR AND A HALF OF YOUR PURCHASE TIME.
ANOTHER OPTION FOR ALL YOU GREEN
AND CALORIE-CONSCIOUS TYPES LIKE ME
IS TO TRY THE BIKE SHARE OR LE VéLIB',
THE SELF-SERVICE BIKE SYSTEM
THAT'S AVAILABLE 24 HOURS A DAY.
IT'S REALLY GREAT, I MEAN, IF YOU WANT TO SEE PARIS.
BECAUSE WHEN YOU'RE IN THE SUBWAY, IT'S REALLY GREAT,
YOU CAN MOVE ONE PLACE TO ANOTHER,
BUT YOU DON'T SEE PARIS.
WHEN YOU'RE BIKING PARIS, YOU SEE HOW BEAUTIFUL IT IS.
I HIT THE STREET TO MEET UP WITH AN OLD FRIEND,
THE FILMMAKER FRANZ RUDOLF LANG,
A DEDICATED AND OPINIONATED FOOD ENTHUSIAST
AND SOMEONE WHO'S WATCHED
AS A YOUNGER GENERATION OF CHEFS HAVE TRANSFORMED
THE MOST HIGHLY REGARDED CUISINE IN THE WORLD
INTO SOMETHING DIFFERENT.
THERE'S A WHOLE NEW GENERATION OF YOUNG CHEFS
WHO ARE DEEPLY IN LOVE WITH THE--THE PRODUCT...
MM-HMM.
MORE THAN THE RECIPE.
YEAH, YOU KNOW WHAT A BIG DIFFERENCE IS?
IN THE OLD DAYS WE DIDN'T KNOW THEM. WE FOLLOWED THEM BLINDLY.
NOW WE KNOW THEM. THEY'RE ALL FRIENDS OF NEW YORK CHEFS.
BECAUSE IT'S A SMALL WORLD.
IT'S A MU--
IT IS A MUCH SMALLER WORLD NOW.
WE'RE HEADING OVER TO L'AVANT COMPTOIR
IN THE LEFT BANK IN THE 6th,
A TINY, STANDING-ROOM-ONLY FRENCH SMALL PLATE AND WINE BAR
RUN BY YVES CAMDEBORDE, THE SAME MASTERMIND
BEHIND LE COMPTOIR du RELAIS NEXT DOOR.
WITH L'AVANT COMPTOIR HE'S BEEN QUOTED
AS WANTING TO END THE TYRANNY OF THE TABLE IN PARIS.
I-I'M EXCITED ABOUT EATING HERE.
YOU EAT STANDING UP. IT'S TOTALLY CASUAL.
YOU GET TO EAT OTHER PEOPLE'S FOOD.
LIKE, THE BREAD AND BUTTER
AND THE PICKLES AND ALL THIS STUFF IS COMMUNAL.
CORRECT ME IF I'M WRONG,
THAT IS AN EXCITING (bleep) MENU,
ABOVE AND BEYOND ALL OF THIS, WHICH IS FANTASTIC.
YEAH, IT'S TRUE.
I WANT THAT. I WANT ALL OF THOSE.
WE ORDER SLICED JAMBON NOIR de BIGORRE.
CROQUETTE OF PIED COCHON,
AND SEARED VEAL RARE,
SERVED WITH A TUNA PâTé,
FINALLY, THE MACARON de BOUDIN NOIR.
SO DO YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR TRIP IN PARIS WILL BE ABOUT?
ME EATING.
YEAH, OF COURSE. OF COURSE.
IF I VISIT, UH, A COUPLE OF PLACES FROM MY CHILDHOOD...
YOU LIVED IN PARIS ACTUALLY WHEN YOU WERE A KID?
NO, NO.
UH, VACATIONS TO VISIT FAMILY.
VACATIONS.
YEAH.
THAT'S WHY YOU'RE SPEAKING FRENCH SO WELL.
OH, THAT HURT.
THREE MORE GLASSES,
AND MY FRENCH WILL GET MUCH BETTER. I PROMISE YOU.
YEAH, AND MY ENGLISH WILL, TOO.
IF YOU HAPPEN TO BE OVER ON THE LEFT BANK
AND ARE LOOKING FOR SOME GOOD FRENCH SNACKS,
TRY AUX DEUX AMIS. THE OWNERS OF THIS NEW BISTRO
HAVE KEPT THE ORIGINAL '70s DéCOR--
NEON LIGHTS, FORMICA WOOD PANELING, MIRRORS.
HERE IT'S MOSTLY SMALL PLATES MEANT FOR SHARING--
AGAIN, SOMETHING YOU MIGHT NOT HAVE SEEN
A FEW YEARS AGO IN PARIS.
FOR ME TODAY, THOUGH,
IT'S THAT BLOOD SAUSAGE MACAROON.
AH, NOW THAT'S A SANDWICH.
THE MACAROON HERE-- HOW IS IT CALLED? MACAROON?
OH, WOW.
AND SO YOU HAVE THE NEW
AND ALL THESE YOUNG KIDS DOING THINGS,
BUT AT THE SAME TIME,
I'M VERY, VERY, VERY SENTIMENTAL
ABOUT THAT OLD, OLD, OLD STUFF.
I THINK THAT--
YOU KNOW, I LOVE-- EVEN THE WORST OF IT I LOVE.
WELL, I THINK THE RESTAURANT YOU'RE TALKING ABOUT,
UH, WHERE IT IS THE MOTHER OF THE OWNER
IS IN THE KITCHEN AND, UH...
YEAH, EXACTLY.
I THINK...
I LOVE THAT.
I THINK IN PARIS THOSE RESTAURANTS ARE DEAD
OR ARE ABOUT TO DIE.
TO MY WAY OF THINKING,
THERE IS NO GREATER CULINARY INSTITUTION IN FRANCE
THAN THE OLD-SCHOOL, DINO-STYLE,
UNCHANGED BY TIME, CLASSIC PARISIAN BISTRO.
AND THIS PLACE, LE PAUL BERT IN THE 11th,
IS ONE OF THE BEST.
(Anthony) TEN YEARS FROM TODAY,
20, 50, 100 YEARS,
A PLACE LIKE THIS WILL ALWAYS BE IMPORTANT,
RELEVANT, CENTRAL,
DYNAMIC TO-- TO CUISINE.
HOWEVER PEOPLE ARE COOKING A HUNDRED YEARS FROM NOW,
WHOEVER IS COOKING WILL ALWAYS
AND MUST ALWAYS LOVE AND RESPECT THIS.
FRANZ AND I ORDER UP SOME CLASSICS.
CHEF BERTRAND AUBOYNEAU
TELLS US ASPARAGUS IS IN SEASON.
SO I GOT WITH AN ASPARAGUS AND MUSHROOM OMELET TO START.
FOR THE MAIN, I'M EASY-- STEAK AU POIVRE.
GOD, I LOVE THIS (bleep),
ESPECIALLY WHEN IT'S A SUPER '60s
CREAMY HEART ATTACK VERSION.
FRANZ GOES WITH SOME
BEAUTIFULLY STEAMED FRESH ASPARAGUS TO START.
AND FOR HIS MAIN--SEARED VEAL
WITH A GENEROUS PORTION OF THE IN-SEASON VEGETABLES.
IT'S BEAUTIFUL. LOOK AT THAT.
NOTHING COULD BE MORE BEAUTIFUL.
MMM.
OOH. VERY FINE COOKING.
IT'S A PROPERLY MADE OMELET, TOO.
IT'S AMAZING HOW FEW PEOPLE IN THIS WORLD
KNOW HOW TO MAKE AN OMELET CORRECTLY.
IT'S PERFECT.
FOR A SLIGHTLY MORE MODERN ENVIRONMENT,
TRY SEPTIME ALSO IN THE 11th.
HERE CHEF BERTRAND GRéBAUT DELIVERS
A MORE MODERN TAKE ON THE CLASSICS
IN A MORE INDUSTRIAL ENVIRONMENT.
STILL A FRENCH BISTRO AT ITS CORE,
THE FOOD AND CROWD HERE ARE YOUNGER,
EMBRACING SOME OF THE NEWER IDEAS
WORKING THEIR WAY THROUGH FRENCH MODERN COOKERY.
BUT TONIGHT IT'S LE PAUL BERT.
THAT'S IT.
GOTTA LOVE IT.
THAT'S HOW I LIKE IT. THAT IS GREAT.
WE--WE'RE SUCH NERDS.
I'M GOING TO TWEET ON THAT.
ME, TOO. DO PEOPLE DO THIS IN PARIS?
IS THIS ACCEPTABLE BEHAVIOR NOW?
YEAH.
COMPLETELY.
IT'S--IN NEW YORK--
IT'S TOO... (speaking indistinctly)
IN NEW YORK YOU'RE NOT ALLOWED TO EAT
UNTIL YOU TAKE A PICTURE OF IT.
I AM TRYING NOT TO DO IT.
IT'S KIND OF RIDICULOUS, BUT IT'S--IT'S FUN.
UH...
YEAH, IF YOU HAVEN'T TWEETED ABOUT IT, IT DIDN'T HAPPEN.
THIS WAS A GOOD SAUCE. THIS WAS A GOOD STEAK.
YEAH, YOU LOOK HAPPY.
I AM HAPPY.
AFTER A MEAL LIKE THIS, I AM DONE.
PUT A FORK IN ME. ROLL ME INTO A (bleep) WHEELBARROW.
♪♪
BREAD IN FRENCH CULTURE IS HUGE.
IT'S JUST LIKE THE WEATHER. IT'S JUST LIKE SUNSHINE.
YOU--YOU DON'T HAVE SUNSHINE, PEOPLE ARE DEPRESSED.
SAME THING WITH BREAD.
I EAT BREAD WITH EVERYTHING.
I EVEN EAT BREAD WITH PIZZA.
I EAT BREAD WITH SUSHI.
THAT'S NOT A MEAL IF THERE'S NO BREAD ON THE TABLE.
SOME OF MY FONDER MEMORIES FROM WHEN I WAS A KID
INVOLVE THE MORNING TRIP TO A BOULANGERIE IN PARIS.
I LOVED WALKING UP TO THE BAKERY
FIRST THING IN THE MORNING AND SMELLING
ALL THOSE WONDERFUL AND MYSTERIOUSLY RICH SMELLS.
AND THIS MORNING I'M HAPPY TO RELIVE THAT MEMORY.
I THINK, UM, ONE OF THE, UH,
ESCARGOT CERISE PISTACHE.
THAT'S--YES, THAT LOOKS IRRESISTIBLE.
IT IS.
AND THE FAMOUS, UH...
PAIN DES AMIS.
OUI.
I MEET UP WITH CHRISTOPHE VASSEUR,
CREATOR AND FOUNDER OF WHAT MANY CONSIDER TO BE
THE BEST BAKERY IN PARIS--
DU PAIN ET DES IDEES.
CHRISTOPHE IS DOING THINGS WITH DOUGH
THAT HAVE NOT BEEN DONE FOR DECADES.
IF YOU HAVE FIVE MINUTES, I CAN SHOW YOU UPSTAIRS
HOW WE MAKE THIS-- THE ROLLS.
YES, I'D LOVE TO.
THIS IS SOMETHING WHICH HAS DISAPPEARED IN FRANCE.
HE TAKES ME UPSTAIRS WHERE HIS BAKERS ARE HARD AT WORK,
MIXING, KNEADING, AND SHAPING
THE MOST BASIC OF FOODSTUFFS, THE DOUGH.
AND HERE THEY MAKE AND SELL ONLY BREADS,
NO PASTRIES, A SUBTLE DISTINCTION
THAT'S BEEN LOST OVER THE YEARS.
PâTISSERIE USED TO BE THE, UH...
A DISTINCT, UH, SEPARATE THING.
A DISTINCT-- TOTALLY DISTINCT BUSINESS.
RIGHT.
AND NOW EVERYTHING IS--
IS IN THE SAME, UH, BOUTIQUE.
AND THE QUALITY, IT'S--IT--
NOBODY IS EXCELLENT IN PâTISSERIE
AND EXCELLENT IN BREAD.
RIGHT.
THEY'RE TWO DIFFERENT CRAFTS ENTIRELY.
IT'S TWO DIFFERENT SENSITIVITIES.
IF YOU WANT A SLIGHTLY MORE SUBSTANTIAL BREAKFAST,
CHECK OUT COQUELICOT.
LOCATED IN MONTMARTRE IN THE 18th,
COQUELICOT IS A BAKERY AND CAFé
THAT'S ALMOST ALWAYS CROWDED AND WITH GOOD REASON.
THERE'S A TERRACE OUT FRONT TO WATCH THE WORLD PASS BY,
AND THEY SERVE LATTES IN GIANT BOWLS STILL,
AN ALMOST-EXTINCT OLD PARIS TRADITION.
THERE'S THE USUAL CLASSIC FRENCH TREATS
MAYBE YOU REMEMBER FROM SOMEONE ELSE'S CHILDHOOD,
LIKE MADELEINE, FINANCIER, MACAROONS,
BUT ALSO HEARTIER BRUNCH STUFF.
BUT THIS MORNING I'M LOOKING FORWARD
TO APPRECIATING THE WAY BREAD USED TO BE MADE.
NOW, UH, THE WONDERFUL BREAD--
UM, HOW MANY BAKERS IN PARIS MAKE--
STILL MAKE THIS KIND OF BREAD?
0.00%
REALLY?
THE PROBLEM WITH BREAD IN FRANCE TODAY IS--
YOU SEE THAT CRUST?
70% OF THE FLAVOR IS THE CRUST.
BUT EVERYBODY FORGOT IT,
BECAUSE, OF COURSE, IT'S EASIER, FASTER,
MORE CONVENIENT TO HALF-BAKE THE BREAD.
AND TO ME, OUR SHOP'S MOTTO
WAS DO SOMETHING DIFFERENT BUT EXCEPTIONAL.
BREAD IN HAND,
I STROLL OVER TO CANAL SAINT-MARTIN
TO RELAX AND EAT MY BREAKFAST.
(sighs) SO SOMEONE WAS JUST TELLING ME
THAT THIS CANAL WAS DUG--
NAPOLéON HAD IT DUG
SO THAT THEY COULD FLOAT CHEESE
RIGHT UP FROM ITS POINT OF ORIGIN INTO CENTRAL PARIS.
HE'S RIGHT ABOUT ONE THING. THAT IS GOOD (bleep) BREAD.
THIS IS GONNA BE STICKY.
WOW.
IT'S JUST OBSCENELY GOOD. AND I HATE SWEET (bleep).
IT'S A DELICATE INTERPLAY BETWEEN THE FRESH CHERRIES
AND THE PISTACHIO-- AH, (bleep) IT.
IT'S REALLY, REALLY GOOD.
"DO YOU KNOW THAT IN FRANCE IT IS ILLEGAL
"TO NAME YOUR PIG 'NAPOLéON'?
"IN FRANCE, 70% OF THE MUSIC ON THE RADIO
"MUST BE MADE BY FRENCH ARTISTS
BETWEEN THE HOURS OF 8:00 A.M. AND 8:00 P.M."
YEAH, THE CANADIANS HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM.
"IT IS ILLEGAL TO WALK WITH YOUR HAND UP A WOMAN'S SKIRT,
BUT WHILE YOU'RE ON THE METRO YOU MAY LEGALLY TOUCH ***."
YOUR OWN OR SOMEONE ELSE'S?
PERHAPS THE MOST STRIKING EFFECT
OF THE CURRENT FOOD REVOLUTION IN PARIS
IS THE APPEARANCE OF NOT ONLY AMERICAN CHEFS,
BUT ALSO THAT SYMBOL
OF CUTTING-EDGE HIPSTER FOODIE CULTURE,
THE FOOD TRUCK.
LE CAMION FOOD TRUCK
DOES WHAT WAS ONCE THE UNTHINKABLE--
SERVES UP THAT CLASSIC AMERICAN FOOD, THE HAMBURGER,
AND OUT OF A TRUCK ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD.
AND IT'S PROBABLY THE BEST BURGER
YOU CAN GET IN PARIS.
BONJOUR.
BONJOUR. UH, CLASSIQUE.
ONE OF THE NICE THINGS ABOUT THIS BURGER
IS THAT THEY HAVEN'T (bleep) AROUND WITH IT TOO MUCH.
THEY USE CHOICE BEEF COOKED PROPERLY,
SERVED UP ON GREAT BREAD.
I ORDER UP WHAT THEY CALL THE CLASSIQUE,
A CHEDDAR CHEESEBURGER,
TOMATO, LETTUCE, ONION, AND PICKLES.
THAT'S A RESPECTABLE-LOOKING HAMBURGER.
THAT...
IS A GOOD (bleep) HAMBURGER.
ANOTHER OPTION AND IN FACT THE ONLY OTHER FOOD TRUCK
IN PARIS SO FAR AS I KNOW
IS THE CALIFORNIE CANTINE.
CROWDS FLOCK TO THIS SPOT FOR ORGANIC HAMBURGERS,
MEXICAN TACOS,
AND THAT ULTIMATE SYMBOL OF HIPSTER DESSERTS,
THE CUPCAKE.
JESUS, WHAT'S HAPPENING TO THE FRANCE I LOVE.
CUPCAKES. THE END IS CLEARLY NEAR.
THIS ROVING FOOD TRUCK POSTS ITS WHEREABOUTS
ON VARIOUS SOCIAL NETWORKS AND ON ITS WEB SITE.
IT'S WORTH THE EFFORT OF TRACKING IT DOWN,
BECAUSE THIS MAY VERY WELL BE
THE ONLY DECENT MEXICAN FOOD IN ALL OF PARIS.
THERE'S REALLY ONLY ONE THING TO FOLLOW UP A HAMBURGER LUNCH.
AN ICE CREAM CONE.
ON THE îLE SAINT-LOUIS, A SLIVER OF LAND
IN THE MIDDLE OF THE SEINE,
STANDS ONE OF THE GREAT INSTITUTIONS OF PARIS,
BERTHILLON ICE CREAM.
I ORDER UP A SCOOP OF IN-SEASON CHERRY
AND A SALTED CARAMEL CREAM.
WOW.
RIDICULOUS.
MERCI.
(speaking indistinctly)
NOW WHAT YOU GOTTA KNOW
IS MONSIEUR BERTHILLON WHO RAN THIS PLACE,
THE LEGEND WAS HE WOULD NOT EVEN GIVE HIS SONS THE RECIPE.
HE DIDN'T TRUST THEM WITH THE RECIPE.
JOURNALISTS WOULD COME FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD,
AND THEY WOULD ASK, YOU KNOW,
"WHEN IS MONSIEUR BERTHILLON COMING?"
THEY'D ASK SOME OLD MAN WHO WOULD BE OUT FRONT
SWEEPING THE STREET. OF COURSE IT WAS HIM.
HE WOULD SAY, "I DON'T KNOW. HE NEVER COMES IN."
WHAT WAS THE BIG DEAL? THE BIG DEAL WAS
YOU WOULD TAKE A BITE OUT OF THIS CONE,
AND YOU WOULD TASTE CHERRIES IN SEASON LIKE THIS
OR--OR WILD STRAWBERRIES IN SEASON
THAT WOULD JUST BLOW THE TOP OF YOUR HEAD (bleep) OFF.
AND IT IS (bleep) GOOD.
AND, UM...
THE îLE SAINT-LOUIS--
IT'S A LITTLE SPIT OF LAND IN THE MIDDLE OF THE SEINE.
YOU'VE GOT THE LEFT BANK OVER THERE,
THE RIGHT BANK OVER THERE.
GRAB SOME ICE CREAM, HAVE A COUPLE OF DRINKS,
GET ALL HEMINGWAY AND (bleep) OVER THERE.
IT'S A NICE PLACE TO BE. MMM.
♪♪
THE WORD "FLâN--FLâNER" IN FRENCH
IS JUST TO KIND OF WANDER.
HERE IT'S OKAY TO JUST BE A FLâNEUR
AND TO DREAM
AND TO WALK ALONG
AND THEN STOP IN A CAFé.
AND THAT--ALL OF THAT IS OKAY. IT'S OKAY TO TAKE YOUR TIME.
AND I THINK THAT'S REALLY SOMETHING THAT'S VERY BEAUTIFUL.
IN KEEPING WITH THE IDEA OF DOING AS CLOSE TO NOTHING
AS POSSIBLE IN PARIS,
TAKING A STROLL THROUGH A PARK IS PROBABLY A GOOD IDEA.
THE JARDIN du LUXEMBOURG IN THE 6th DISTRICT
IS A FINE EXAMPLE OF WHAT I LOVE
ABOUT PARISIAN PARKS.
I HAVE MANY HAPPY MEMORIES OF PLAYING IN PARKS LIKE THIS...
(laughing)
FLOATING LITTLE WOOD BOATS IN THE PARK'S CENTRAL FOUNTAIN.
OF COURSE, MY PRODUCERS WOULDN'T TAKE ME
TO THE PARK I ACTUALLY SPENT TIME IN,
INSISTING THE JARDIN du LUXEMBOURG
WAS A MUCH BETTER LOCATION.
THEY NEGLECTED TO FIND OUT WHETHER THE KIDS
AND THE BOATS WOULD BE HERE.
APPARENTLY THE BOATMAN HAD THE DAY OFF.
BUT STILL, EVEN I HAVE TO ADMIT
IT'S A PRETTY PARK.
SO I SIT TO DIGEST AND WATCH THE WORLD GO BY
UNTIL SUDDENLY MY WORST FEARS ARE REALIZED.
OOH, IT'S A MIME. JUST KEEP HIM AWAY FROM ME.
REALLY, THERE'S NOTHING I HATE
OR FEAR MORE THAN MIMES.
HE'S TRAPPED IN A BOX. HE CAN'T GET OUT.
AND LOOK, MY PRODUCERS HAVE SURPRISED ME WITH ONE.
I LOVE THIS.
I THOUGHT AT THE TIME THAT THIS JUST HAPPENED.
BUT NO. NO, IN AN ACT OF TREACHERY
UNPARALLELED IN HUMAN HISTORY,
MY QUISLING-LIKE PRODUCER
SECRETLY SET UP THIS CRUEL AMBUSH
BY THIS STRIPEY-SHIRTED NIGHTMARE...
YEAH, I'VE HAD ENOUGH, MAN.
BRINGING ME BACK TO MY DARKEST
AND MOST FIERCELY REPRESSED CHILDHOOD TRAUMA,
AN INCIDENT AT A SUMMER CAMP CRAFTS FAIR
WHERE IS WAS CRUELLY MISUSED BY A PREDATORY MIME...
(chuckles)
BEATEN, COVERED IN GREASEPAINT, AND LEFT FOR DEAD.
MERCI.
WELL, MY DAY'S RUINED. (sighs)
I WANTED TO RELIVE SOME HAPPY CHILDHOOD MEMORIES,
AND INSTEAD MY DEEPEST AND DARKEST FEAR
AND REVULSION.
(inaudible)
NOTHING WILL WASH AWAY THE STAIN FROM THIS MOMENT.
OH, LOOK-- SHELLFISH TOWER.
LE DOME IS AN OLD CLASSIC--
AND I MEAN CLASSIC WITH A CAPITAL "C"--
BRASSERIE IN THE MONTPARNASSE DISTRICT.
AFTER THE MIME INCIDENT
I FEEL MY PRODUCER IS UNLIKELY TO PROTEST
WHEN I GET A REALLY (bleep) EXPENSIVE BOTTLE OF WINE
AND THE ROYALE DELUXE VERSION
OF THE BEST SHELLFISH TOWER IN PARIS.
THIS IS GONNA COST.
WHAT DO YOU CALL, LIKE, POST-MIME STRESS DISORDER?
EVERY TIME FROM NOW ON I SEE A STRIPED SHIRT
I'M GONNA, LIKE, CLENCH.
AH.
(man speaking French)
SUPER. MERCI.
THIS IS GONNA BE SOME SERIOUS EATING RIGHT HERE.
IF THERE'S TWO THINGS YOU DO IN PARIS, LIKE, TWO,
TWO, THIS WOULD BE ONE OF THEM.
OYSTERS, CLAMS, SHRIMP,
BIG (bleep) CRABS,
AND ALSO THE CLASSIC LANGOUSTINE,
PERIWINKLE, AND WHELKS.
GOTTA GET YOUR HANDS DIRTY DOING THIS, BY THE WAY.
THERE AIN'T NO WAY AROUND IT.
THEY GIVE YOU ALL THE TOOLS,
BUT ULTIMATELY YOU HAVE TO DIG IN, CRACK,
SKEWER, AND SUCK YOUR WAY THROUGH THIS THING.
SO YOU PULL YOUR LITTLE PERIWINKLE.
OKAY, SEE THAT PART THERE?
THAT YOU WANT TO PINCH OFF, OKAY?
WE DON'T REALLY NEED TO DISCUSS WHY.
YOU JUST PROBABLY WANT TO DO THAT.
BULOTS. WHELK.
TWIST THESE OUT, AS I RECALL. RIGHT.
LITTLE DIP IN THE MAYO.
MMM.
THESE ARE THE BEST BULOTS I'VE EVER HAD.
AND WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN HIDING, MY LOVE?
REMEMBER TO GET THAT BRAIN MATTER RIGHT OUT OF THE HEAD.
I CAN'T STRESS THIS ENOUGH.
A QUICK PLATE CHANGE, AND WE'RE BACK IN BUSINESS.
YOU WILL NEED TO DO THIS MULTIPLE TIMES
DURING YOUR AVERAGE SEAFOOD TOWER MISSION.
ANOTHER OPTION FOR A CLASSIC FRENCH BRASSERIE EXPERIENCE
IS BRASSERIE WEPLER,
ONE OF THE LAST TRULY FAMILY-RUN JOINTS IN PARIS.
LOCATED BETWEEN MONTMARTRE AND PIGALLE,
THIS BRASSERIE HAS FOR OVER A HUNDRED YEARS
BEEN THE LARGEST OYSTER HOUSE IN PARIS.
BUT FOR TODAY, FOR ME, IT'S LE DOME.
(slurps) (bleep) THAT'S GOOD.
(slurps)
OH, THESE THINGS ARE AWESOME.
BE SURE TO SCOOP OUT THAT BRAIN MATTER.
♪♪
AH, OUI. MERCI.
IT'S KINDA MORE FUN DOING THIS WITH SOMEBODY ELSE, THOUGH.
IT IS PARIS. I FEEL A LITTLE LONELY.
I FEEL I SHOULD BE SHARING WITH SOMEONE.
I WONDER WHAT THAT MIME'S DOING?
WHAT MUSIC DO MIMES LISTEN TO?
SPIN DOCTORS?
YEAH, THEY LISTEN TO SPIN DOCTORS,
HOOTIE & THE BLOWFISH.
IF YOU GO TO ANY MIME'S APARTMENT,
THERE'S A NATALIE MERCHANT RECORD.
GUARANTEED.
HELLO, MR. CLAMMY.
YOU THOUGHT YOU COULD HIDE FROM ME, DIDN'T YOU?
BUT YOU COULDN'T.
OH, JEEZ. THE SECOND TIME TODAY
SOMETHING SQUIRTED ON MY CHEST.
FIRST IT WAS THE MIME,
NOW A CLAM.
(gulps) DID IT AGAIN.
MMM.
OH, MAN.
I'M GONNA FINISH OFF THAT BOTTLE OF (bleep) WINE,
GO BACK TO THE PARK,
BEAT MR. MIME TO DEATH.
IT'S A CITY
WHO I'M STILL DISCOVERING EVERY DAY.
THE NEWLY TRENDY 10th QUARTIER
HAS TRADITIONALLY BEEN AN AREA
WHERE NEW IMMIGRANTS SETTLED IN.
INDIANS, PAKISTANIS, AFRICANS,
EASTERN EUROPEANS, TURKS, AND KURDS--
THEY ALL BROUGHT THEIR FOOD PRODUCTS,
AND NOW, AS YOU MIGHT HAVE GUESSED,
HIPSTERS HAVE FOLLOWED.
I MEET UP WITH RESTAURATEUR PIERRE JANCOU,
WHO HAS A RESTAURANT IN THIS NEIGHBORHOOD.
PIERRE BRINGS ALONG HIS FRIEND AND BUSINESS PARTNER
DAVID BENICHOU, AND WE HEAD OUT TOGETHER
INTO THE VIBRANT MIX WHICH IS NOW THE 10th
TO CHECK OUT URFA DURUM, A KURDISH SANDWICH SHOP.
(David) THIS IS THE PLACE. THEY HAVE GREAT KURD SANDWICHES.
BON SOIR. (speaking French)
THE NAME MEANS KURDISH ROLLED SANDWICH,
AND THE FLATBREAD IS BAKED RIGHT IN FRONT OF YOU.
NO FRIES, NO SAUCE, AND MINIMAL SPICES--
SIMPLE, FRESH DELICIOUSNESS.
I ORDER THE LAMB KEBAB, AND PIERRE TAKES THE BEEF,
DAVID THE LAMB LIVER.
MMM. IT'S GOOD.
WHY IS HE DOING IT SO WELL?
I MEAN, WHY DOESN'T HE JUST SELL KEBAB LIKE EVERYBODY ELSE?
BECAUSE HE WANTS TO MAKE HIS TRADITIONAL SANDWICH
THAT HE--THAT THEY EAT AT HOME.
THAT'S REALLY WHAT THEY EAT IN KURDISTAN.
REALLY FRESH, VIBRANT.
I LIKE THIS NEIGHBORHOOD.
IT IS CHANGING A LOT.
YEAH, VERY MUCH.
YOU GO TO THE RIGHT, IT'S VERY AFRICAN.
NOW I'M GONNA BRING YOU TO PASSAGE BRADY--
ONLY INDIANS, BANGLADESH.
MY STREET, ALL THIS AREA WAS, LIKE, JEWISH,
EASTERN COUNTRIES JEWISH.
MM-HMM.
REALLY MIXED UP.
SO WHO'S MOVING IN NOW?
HIPSTERS.
YEAH, I-I KNEW THE ANSWER.
BECAUSE IT'S STILL CHEAP-- CHEAP TO LIVE HERE.
ANOTHER OPTION FOR EXPLORING
SOME ETHNIC DIVERSITY IN PARIS
IS THE MARCHE DES ENFANTS ROUGES,
PARIS'S OLDEST COVERED MARKET
LOCATED IN THE 3rd, LE MARAIS.
COME HERE FOR HIGH-QUALITY ETHNIC FOOD STANDS
AND AN ARRAY OF FRESH PRODUCE, FISH, AND FLOWERS.
THERE'S A MOROCCAN STALL, JAPANESE BENTO BOXES,
FRENCH CHEESEMONGERS,
AND A VARIETY OF GROCERS.
AND THERE'S OUTSIDE SEATING
TO RELAX AND ENJOY YOUR MULTICULTURAL FEAST.
♪♪
NOW FOR A LITTLE GUILTY PLEASURE,
I HEAD INTO THE LEGENDARY DEHILLERIN KITCHEN SUPPLY.
EVEN THOUGH I SPEND LESS AND LESS TIME IN THE KITCHEN,
THE TOOLS OF THE TRADE CONTINUE TO FASCINATE ME.
BUT HERE I'VE COME LOOKING
FOR SOMETHING VERY SPECIFIC.
I'M LOOKING FOR A DUCK PRESS.
AH, OUI. PRESSE à CANARD.
PRESSE à CANARD.
LA PRESSE à CANARD-- A DUCK PRESS,
THE MOST MEDIEVAL OF ALL KITCHEN TOOLS.
THE WAY IT WORKS IS YOU TAKE A DUCK...
YOUR DAYS ARE NUMBERED, MY FRIEND. YOU'RE GOING IN.
ROAST IT TO PERFECTLY RARE OR MEDIUM RARE.
REMOVE THE LEGS AND *** AND SET 'EM ASIDE.
CHOP UP THE CARCASS A LITTLE BIT.
PLACE IT IN THE CHAMBER AT THE CENTER OF THE PRESS,
AND THIS IS WHERE IT GETS FUN.
YOU SLOWLY TURN THE WHEEL
AND CRUSH THE CARCASS AND THE BONES.
ALL THE BLOOD AND JUICES
RUN OUT THE LITTLE SPIGOT AT THE BOTTOM.
IT'S GONNA BE THE BEST PARTY EVER.
THE BLOODY JUICE COLLECTS IN A SAUCEPAN.
YOU SIMMER IT WITH SOME WINE, MAYBE SOME SHALLOTS,
AND COOK IT DOWN TO A DEEP, DARK, BLOODY SAUCE.
POUR THIS OVER YOUR ROASTED DUCK PARTS
AND VOILà. AMAZING.
ALSO, THE DUCK PRESS LOOKS REALLY COOL
SITTING IN YOUR LIVING ROOM.
IT'S SO COOL. I'M NEVER GONNA USE IT.
OH, I'M GONNA USE IT. I'LL GET ME A DUCK.
IF YOU WANT A LESS EXPENSIVE SHOPPING EXPERIENCE,
TRY SHAKESPEARE AND COMPANY BOOKSTORE IN THE LATIN QUARTER.
A BRITISH FAMILY HAS OWNED THIS ESTABLISHMENT
FOR GENERATIONS.
HERE, WRITERS LIKE JACK KEROUAC WOULD CRASH IN ONE OF THE BEDS
TUCKED IN ONE OF THE SMALL BOOKSHOP'S CORNERS.
IF LIKE *** ALLEN YOU NEED
TO REASSERT YOUR CREDENTIALS AS A DEEP THINKER,
AND YOU LOVE A GOOD DJUNA BARNES JOKE,
IF YOU'RE THE SORT OF PERSON
WHO'D BUY OWEN WILSON AS A GREAT WRITER IN A MOVIE,
THEN THIS IS A MUST-STOP.
BUT FOR ME ON THIS TRIP,
MY TOYS ARE TORTURE RELATED.
THERE'S, LIKE, MAYBE TWO RESTAURANTS IN NEW YORK
THAT HAVE ONE OF THESE.
AND MY HOUSE. AWESOME.
(metal squealing)
THE NEIGHBORS WILL BE LIKE, "OH, HE'S MAKING DUCK AGAIN.
DAMN YOU, BOURDAIN."
AWESOME.
THE PARISIANS TAKE THEIR LEISURE VERY SERIOUSLY,
HENCE THE PHENOMENA, L'HEUR de L'APéRO,
LITERALLY "THE HOUR OF THE APéRITIF."
YOU NEED TO GET RID OF YOUR STRESS.
TAKE OFF ALL THE TENSION FROM THE DAY,
THE TENSIONS AT WORK.
I MEET UP WITH MAURICE GUILLOUET,
A WELL-KNOWN EXECUTIVE CHEF IN PARIS.
WE MEET A LA PALETTE.
THE REAL REASON TO COME IS THE TERRACE,
A BEAUTIFUL OUTDOOR SPACE NOT FAR FROM THE RIVER
WHERE YOU CAN GET A REAL SENSE OF THE VILLAGE LIFE
IN SAINT-GERMAIN.
CHEERS.
CHEERS.
MAURICE AND I CATCH UP WITH A COLD ROSé
AND A SNACK CALLED A GUILLOTINE,
THIN SLICES OF BREAD
WITH EQUALLY THIN SLICES OF MEAT AND CHEESE.
SIMPLE AND GOOD.
THE FRENCH LUNCH--
ABOUT HOW LONG ORDINARILY?
AN HOUR AND A HALF?
NO, LESS THAN ONE HOUR.
LESS NOW.
IT USED TO BE A LITTLE LONGER.
YEAH, IT USED TO BE, AND MORE DRINKING.
AND YOU USED TO DRINK MORE. NOW...
NOW IT'S ALL MORE OFFICIAL. NO DRINK.
IT'S STILL GOOD TO BE ALIVE AND LIVING IN PARIS, RIGHT?
YEAH. A LOT OF HOLIDAYS.
A LOT OF HOLIDAYS. MEDICAL CARE IS FREE.
THEY WORK LESS THAN EIGHT HOURS A DAY.
RIGHT.
NOT MUCH. TWO DAYS OFF A WEEK.
OH, IT'S NOT SO BAD, HUH?
OKAY, SO EVEN IN PARIS THEY'RE CLAMPING DOWN
ON THE LEISURELY LUNCH,
BUT IT'S STILL A PRETTY GOOD PLACE
TO LIVE THE GOOD LIFE.
I MEAN, AS I'VE SAID, IF YOU DO NOTHING IN PARIS,
YOU CAN STILL HAVE A PRETTY SWEET TIME.
♪♪
FOR MY FINAL MEAL IN PARIS,
EVERYTHING COMES KIND OF FULL CIRCLE.
THERE WERE SOME PLACES IN PARIS
THAT WERE WAY AHEAD OF THE OTHERS,
EARLY ADOPTERS OF YOUNG, BIODYNAMIC WINES
AND THE SORT OF MY-WAY-OR-THE-HIGHWAY MENUS
THAT ARE POPULAR NOW.
I MEET BACK UP WITH PIERRE FROM RESTAURANT VIVANT
AND HIS FRIEND DAVID.
WE JUMP IN A CAB AND HEAD OUT TO LE BARATIN,
ALL THE WAY OUT IN THE 20th, THE BELLEVILLE NEIGHBORHOOD.
ALTHOUGH IT'S BEEN IN BUSINESS FOR 25 YEARS,
THE OWNERS OF THIS PLACE HAVE ALWAYS BEEN USING
BIODYNAMIC YOUNG WINES SINCE THE BEGINNING.
AND CHEF RAQUEL CARENA'S COOKING IS GENERALLY CONSIDERED
TO BE SOME OF THE VERY BEST IN PARIS.
AND I TOLD YOU WERE IN BELLEVILLE,
A REALLY POPULAR PLACE. éDITH PIAF WAS BORN NEXT DOOR.
RIGHT, THE HOTEL?
YEAH, THE HOTEL.
MOM WORKED, UH, WORKED AT THE HOTEL.
KIND OF, YES.
(indistinct conversation)
IT'S A MACERATED ROSé.
ROSé.
IT'S GOOD.
YOU LIKE?
OH, YES. WHY SO MANY YEARS
BEFORE EVERYBODY ELSE STARTED DOING THIS,
AND WHY DID YOU CHOOSE THIS ROUTE?
(speaking French)
THEY WERE PART OF THE BEGINNING OF THIS--
OF THE HISTORY OF WHAT THEY CALL TODAY
COMMONLY "VIN NATUREL,"
WHICH MEANS THAT THEY ARE ORGANIC ON THE VINE.
WAS THERE RESISTANCE FROM CUSTOMERS IN THE BEGINNING?
OUI, OUI...
YES, IN FRANCE EVERYBODY THINKS HE'S AN EXPERT IN WINE.
(speaking French)
THERE'S A LOT OF NARCISSISM AND EGO.
SO THEY WERE THINKING THEY WERE STUPID GUYS
BECAUSE THEY WERE LIKING AND DRINKING THESE WINES.
IT'S A REALLY, REALLY COOL MENU.
EVERYTHING IS GOOD HERE. WE'RE IN GOOD HANDS.
WE START OFF WITH SOME SQUID PREPARED IN ITS OWN INK
AND SOME BEEF TOPPED WITH ANCHOVIES.
SQUID FROM SPAIN.
MMM.
THAT'S OUTRAGEOUSLY GOOD.
MMM, I LIKE THAT.
THAT'S VERY GOOD. THIS IS REALLY GOOD FOOD.
SUPERB, IMAGINATIVE FOOD AND FANTASTIC WINES.
HE'S GOT AN AMAZING CELLAR DOWNSTAIRS.
NO ONE KNOWS EXCEPT HIM WHAT THERE IS.
AND HE WILL BRING YOU WHAT HE THINKS YOU DESERVE.
FOR ME, IT'S VERY, VERY EXCITING.
THEY'RE VERY, UH, VIBRANT WINES. THEY DON'T HURT YOU.
YEAH.
YOU NEVER KNOW WHAT YOU'RE GONNA GET, WHICH IS EXCITING, TOO.
IT'S NOT, "OH, YES, I'VE HEARD OF IT."
NO, I HAVEN'T HEARD OF IT. I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT THIS IS,
BUT IT'S UNLIKE ANYTHING I'VE HAD.
IT IS INTERESTING, AND IT--IT'S THE PAST
AND THE FUTURE OF WINE.
ANOTHER OPTION FOR DINNER IS LE VERRE VOLé,
RIGHT OFF CANAL SAINT-MARTIN IN THE 10th,
YET ANOTHER EXAMPLE OF A WINE BAR
THAT SERVES GREAT FOOD.
THE PLACE LOOKS LIKE A WINE CELLAR,
BUT THERE'S MORE TO IT
THAN JUST THEIR AMPLE SELECTION OF NATURAL WINES.
THE FOOD IS CREATIVE AND DELICIOUS.
BACK AT LE BARATIN, I ORDER THE VEAL SWEETBREADS,
PIERRE THE BEEF CHEEKS, AND DAVID THE CHICKEN.
AND OF COURSE-- A NEW WINE.
WOW, YOU WERE RIGHT. THIS IS GREAT.
(man) YES?
THERE WILL BE PLACES THAT LOOK LIKE THIS IN A HUNDRED YEARS.
YES.
BUT THE BIG DINING ROOMS--
I WONDER, YOU KNOW, WHO WILL BE THE CUSTOMERS?
IN A HUNDRED YEARS?
IN 20 YEARS.
YEAH.
RUSSIANS AND CHINESE.
YEAH, YEAH.
AFTER EATING IN A PLACE LIKE LE BARATIN,
YOU REALIZE, OR AT LEAST YOU HOPE
THAT THIS TYPE OF FOOD AND THIS TYPE OF ENVIRONMENT
WILL ALWAYS BE AROUND IN PARIS.
FOOD FADS WILL COME AND GO,
BUT HEARTY, DELICIOUS FOOD ROOTED IN THE CLASSICS
ONE CAN ONLY HOPE IS TIMELESS.
THE TWO NATIONAL HOBBIES IN FRANCE--
PEOPLE ARE FIRST OF ALL... COMPLAINING.
I CAN COMPLAIN ABOUT--WHAT DO YOU WANT ME TO COMPLAIN ABOUT?
I CAN FIND SOME WAY TO COMPLAIN ABOUT IT.
AND--AND THE FRENCH GUY IS JUST THE MOST IMPOLITE.
I AM A NICE GUY, AND I'M PARISIAN.
AND I HAVE FRIENDS. THEY ARE NICE, TOO.
SO THAT MAKES AT LEAST-- WE ARE FIVE. THAT'S FOR SURE.
LOOK, FOR EVERYTHING EVERYBODY SAYS,
GOOD AND BAD, PARIS REMAINS ONE OF THE GREATEST,
MOST BEAUTIFUL, MOST MAGICAL CITIES IN THE WORLD.
AND LIKE A LOT OF OTHER REALLY GREAT CITIES,
IT'S ENTIRELY POSSIBLE TO HAVE A BAD TIME.
PLEASE, DON'T DO THAT.
IT'S SO EASY.
JUST AVOID THE OBVIOUS.
MOST OF US ARE LUCKY
TO SEE PARIS ONCE IN A LIFETIME.
PLEASE, MAKE THE MOST OF IT
BY DOING AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE. WALK A LITTLE.
GET LOST A BIT. EAT.
CATCH A BREAKFAST BUZZ.
HAVE A NAP.
TRY AND HAVE SEX IF YOU CAN, JUST NOT WITH A MIME.
EAT AGAIN. LOUNGE AROUND DRINKING COFFEE.
MAYBE READ A BOOK.
DRINK SOME WINE. WALK AROUND A BIT MORE.
EAT. REPEAT.
SEE? IT'S EASY.