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hello and happy new year today I would like to show you a set up for FPV control
and long range
transmission. The one I'm using with my 350QX.
I will try to explain how and why I did it that way.
As you can see, because I have to carry more than a radio transmitter
alone, I find it more convenient to use a harness
on which I can hook a tray. A tray is almost compulsory in that case because
if you do FPV
you have a bunch of components thightened to the transmitter like a 2.4 GHz
amplifier, the video receiver and your antennas.
I found on ebay a plexiglass tray
custom cut for the DX6i (but they also do it for other models
Spektrum) and if I chose plexi over wood or
carbon is just because plexi is very light, easily
cutable, drillable, waterproof, it's transparent
and this particular model has an intelligent hook system and sufficient space on
sides
to insert stuffs like a battery.
The first thing I did was adding
four 30 millimeters rubber legs to the tray
so what's under cannot be squeezed and the tray can not be
unstable when the transmitter is laying on the plane surface or resting in a case.
My second idea was to feed power
to all components with a single 4S battery
connected to multiple noiseless voltage regulators.
I did it with a simple aluminum angle bracket
and a velcro thight to the metal mounts of the tray. To control the voltage at
all times
I've added a cheap voltmeter on the front face of the tray
and a main on-off switch is here to allow power for all
electronics at the same time. Voltage regulators
UBECS, video monitor
the 1.3 GHz video receiver
and the 2.4 GHz signal amplifier.
I also managed to modify the input of the transmitter so it's no longer
powered by the inner AA batteries but directly from a 6V ubec.
If I used a fifteen volts 4S battery
and not a 12 volts it's because, in order
to deliver the proper voltage, 12 volt
regulators usually need at least 2 volts
difference between input and output current. The small
regulator his screwed to back up the tray as well
as the 5 and 6 Volts UBEC's.
To kill or at least limit Radio Frequency noise
I've used many ferrite rings at all stages
before and after regulators. Another
decision to take if you want to use a wifi booster
is to remove the original 2 dBi antenna
from the transmitter and replace it with reversed polarity
SMA mount, so now I can
either easily mount my own antenna picked between
a bunch of different gains from 2 to 10 dBi depending on my
needs or if I need more emitting
power for longer-range transmission for instance
I can unscrew the antenna
and replace it by
a right angle SMA socket that I will
screw on the transmitter and then drive
the signal tru a cable from the transmitter
output to the wifi amplifier signal input
and at last to a flat panel antenna with a higher gain
and better directivity.
Because of the plexiglass tray i've been able to screw the patch antenna mount
directly on it and have the ability to change the orientation
either verticaly or horizontaly depending on the situation
This kind of antenna is perfect for very long range
transmission especially when connected to an amplifier
note that when using a booster the input signal
from transmitter must usually never exeed 50 milliwatts
or else you just kill the amplifier so
on my transmitter it is set to 10 milliwatts
beside the antenna for the transmitter
There is the antenna for the Video receiver
I personally chose a 4 lobes cloverleaf
antenna, which is a true omni directional antenna
and I positioned it so it faces the ground (or the sky)
horizontaly, this antenna is connected to a12 channel
1.3 Ghz receiver, I use
1360 Mhz frequency
so there is no harmonic frequency near
2.4 that could interfere with the transmitter frequency.
I also use a 1.3 Ghz
low cut filter to avoid all unwanted
frequencies above 1.3
This filter can either be mounted on the video transmitter or on the receiver
I've personally prefer to connect it to the receiver so I spare
unwanted weight on to 350 QX
a strong cable will now feed the monitor
with the video signal
Most of my cables start or end with a right angle socket, best way in my opinion to avoid brackage and to keep cable-lenght
as short as possible. I also
make good use of small Velcro scratch cable tights.
To handle the video monitor I baught a cheap but sturdy and
very light carbon fiber mount that can be found on ebay for a few bucks
And now the back of the transmitter looks a little bit
messy but it's not
and the total weight is fair especially with the harness.
The front is clear and your wrists can rest nicely while
you're remotely controling your bird
I hope this little video gave you some ideas to improve your own set up.
and I'll come back soon for other advice
thanks for watching and see you soon
bye