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(Andrew) A ROAD TRIP THROUGH THE MISSISSIPPI DELTA...
THE BIRTHPLACE OF THE BLUES...
CAN BRING YOU TO PEOPLE MAKING MUSIC AND FOOD
LIKE NOWHERE ELSE.
WE COULD MAKE THIS THING START OINKING AGAIN.
(pig snorting)
THIS IS JUST LIKE A HOT PORK FAT MILK SHAKE.
GREAT CHICKEN LIVERS
IN ALL OF THEIR MUDDY, MINERALLY, ORGAN-Y GLORY.
CHICKEN SKIN-- IT'S WHAT'S FOR DINNER.
THE DELTA'S BEEN CALLED
THE MOST SOUTHERN PLACE ON EARTH.
BUT ALONG WITH THE CLICHéD SOUTHERN STAPLES...
ALL EARS CUT BY HAND. PIG EARS.
SOME PEOPLE THINK IT'S AN ACQUIRED TASTE.
I'VE HAD BALLS A LOT OF WAYS.
I'VE JUST NEVER HAD THE OPPORTUNITY TO HAVE THEM
WITH BACON, LETTUCE, AND TOMATO IN A SANDWICH.
FOR THE UNEXPECTED...
(all laughing)
AND THE JUST PLAIN STRANGE.
IT'S A SOUR PICKLE THAT'S BEEN CUT IN HALF
AND MARINATED IN DOUBLE-STRENGTH CHERRY KOOL-AID.
FROM MEMPHIS, TENNESSEE, TO JACKSON, MISSISSIPPI--
HEADING SOUTH ALONG THE DELTA BLUES TRAIL.
WHY DO I HAVE THIS HORRIFICALLY HOPELESS FEELING
THAT I'M ABOUT TO BE TAKEN?
I'M ANDREW ZIMMERN,
AND THIS IS "BIZARRE FOODS AMERICA."
♪♪
Closed Captions provided by Scripps Networks, LLC.
Captioned by Closed Captioning Services, Inc.
THE MUSIC WE CALL THE BLUES
STARTED OUT AS THE SATURDAY NIGHT ENTERTAINMENT
FOR AFRICAN-AMERICANS WHO WORKED THE COTTON FIELDS
OF THE MISSISSIPPI DELTA.
THE DELTA IS THE NORTHWEST CORNER OF THE STATE,
BOUNDED BY THE MISSISSIPPI AND YAZOO RIVERS
AND THE CITIES OF MEMPHIS AND JACKSON.
OVER TIME, THOSE RIVERS FLOODED
AND FLATTENED THE LANDSCAPE,
CREATING SOME OF THE RICHEST FARMLAND IN THE SOUTH.
BUT NEW MACHINES REPLACED THE OLD WAYS OF FARMING.
MOST OF THE WORKERS MOVED NORTH,
AND TIME MORE OR LESS STOPPED.
YOU WANT TO UNDERSTAND A PLACE AND ITS PEOPLE AND ITS CULTURE?
LISTEN TO THE MUSIC. EAT THE FOOD.
LUCKILY FOR ME, DOWN HERE IN THE DELTA,
THE TWO ARE INSEPARABLE.
TO REACH THE HEART OF THE DELTA,
START AT ITS HEAD IN MEMPHIS.
(woman) SAY IT ONE MORE TIME.
MEMPHIS IS FAMOUS FOR ITS OWN STYLE OF BLUES...
AND STYLE OF BARBECUE.
THE CITY IS HONEYCOMBED
WITH SMALL NEIGHBORHOOD HANGOUTS
WHERE THE BARBECUE IS AS GOOD OR BETTER
THAN THE BIGGEST AND BEST-KNOWN RESTAURANTS,
LIKE THE BAR-B-Q SHOP.
IT'S NOT BEALE STREET. IT'S MADISON AVENUE.
IT'S REALLY ALL IN THE SAUCE TO ME.
THIS IS JOYCE COBB.
SHE'S BEEN SINGING THE MEMPHIS BLUES FOR MORE THAN 30 YEARS.
(singing indistinctly)
THAT'S ABOUT AS LONG AS FRANK VERNON
HAS BEEN MAKING BARBECUE IN THIS KITCHEN.
NOW HE'S PASSING ALONG THE TRICKS OF THE TRADE
TO HIS SON ERIC, INCLUDING THE HOUSE SPECIALTY...
YEAH. YEAH.
OH, IT'S A LOT.
BAR-B-Q SPAGHETTI.
IT'S A MEMPHIS TRADITION THAT FOLKS HERE CLAIM
ORIGINATED IN THIS PLACE.
IT'S JUST WHAT IT SOUNDS LIKE-- BARBECUE SAUCE IN PASTA NOODLES
WITH A SIDE OF COLESLAW AND TOAST.
IT WAS CREATED AS ONE MORE WAY
TO GIVE A BARBECUE-OBSESSED TOWN
A FRESH SPIN ON ITS FAVORITE FLAVORS.
YEAH?
IN MY HEAD, I JUST SAID, "NO WAY."
IT CAN'T BE GOOD. AND IT'S REALLY, REALLY GOOD.
AND I THINK THE REASON IS IS BECAUSE OF WHAT YOU SAID.
UH-HUH.
HAS A SORT OF A CREAMY TOMATO ELEGANCE TO IT.
THIS IS DOWN-HOME BLUES, BABY.
(laughs)
THE SAUCE IS KEY. IT'S MADE FROM A RECIPE
HANDED DOWN FROM THE SHOP'S ORIGINAL OWNER BRADY VINCENT.
AND HE WANTED TO HAVE SOMETHING DIFFERENT,
YEAH.
RIGHT.
SO HE CAME UP WITH THIS BASE THAT HE DID
RIGHT.
THE ACTUAL BASE FOR THE SAUCE.
THAT'S ABOUT AS MUCH AS THE VERNONS WILL TELL ME
ABOUT THEIR BAR-B-Q SPAGHETTI SAUCE.
THEY'VE KEPT THE RECIPE A SECRET
FOR 50 YEARS AND COUNTING.
SPAGHETTI ISN'T THE ONLY LOCAL VARIATION
ON THE USUAL BARBECUE THEME.
THE SMOKED BOLOGNA SANDWICH.
YOU CAN FIND IT IN BARBECUE JOINTS ALL OVER MEMPHIS,
PERHAPS MOST FAMOUSLY HERE AT PAYNE'S BAR-B-Q.
MMM. WHY IS IT WHEN THIS IS SMOKED
AND THEN FRIED
AND THEN PLATED UP
WITH THAT TART, VINEGARY, MUSTARDY,
CABBAGEY SLAW AND BARBECUE SAUCE
DOES A SIMPLE THING LIKE BOLOGNA JUST BECOME A FOOD OF THE GODS?
WHERE DOES SUCH AMAZING STUFF COME FROM?
BOLOGNA STARTS AS LIQUEFIED MEAT.
THIS IS THE FINEBERG PROCESSING PLANT
ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF MEMPHIS.
THE PROUD OWNER IS BRAD DAVIS.
HE'S OFFERING TO GIVE ME A HANDS-ON EXPERIENCE
OF HOW BOLOGNA HAPPENS.
IT BEGINS WITH REAL MEAT--
BITS OF PORK AND BEEF HEART
CHOPPED UP AND MIXED WITH WATER, SALT,
AND A FEW BUCKETS OF SUGAR, GARLIC, THYME,
JUST PULL IT DOWN?
ON THIS?
(Andrew) ALL RIGHT. WHOA!
THERE'S GENIUS IN THE SIMPLICITY.
THE MEAT SLURRY GOES UP OUT OF THE MIXER
RIGHT OVER AND INTO THE MACHINE
THAT SHOOTS IT OUT INTO THE CASING.
GOD, I LOVE THAT MACHINE.
BUT NO MATTER HOW SIMPLE, SOMEONE CAN ALWAYS MESS IT UP.
WELL, I DON'T THINK THIS ONE'S GONNA WORK.
OH, YEAH, IT'S A TOUCH--
IT'S TOUCH. ALL RIGHT, LET'S TRY ONE MORE TIME.
THAT'S GOOD.
NOT BAD.
FROM THERE, THE RACKS OF FRESH CASED MEATS
ALL RIGHT.
IT'S A SYSTEM THAT CAN MAKE
ALL RIGHTY.
AND EVERY OUNCE IS QUALITY CONTROLLED
BY SOMEONE WHO SEES THIS AS ALMOST A SACRED CALLING.
AND WHEN YOU BITE INTO IT, YOU'RE GONNA GET A BITE.
IT'S NOT GONNA BE A MUSH.
YOU'RE GONNA BE ABLE TO FEEL A BITE IN THERE.
THAT'S A GOOD BOLOGNA.
YOU DON'T HAVE THAT WAXY AFTERTASTE
NO.
YOU KNOW, THAT'S A TELLTALE SIGN OF A CHEAP BOLOGNA.
I'M GLAD TO KNOW THAT. THIS TASTES VERY ELEGANT.
FINEBERG MAKES BOLOGNA, HOT DOGS,
AND OTHER PROCESSED MEATS.
THIS IS ONE OF THOSE OTHER ONES.
600 POUNDS OF BUBBLING HEARTS AND EARS,
STOMACHS AND SNOUTS...
I THINK IF YOU GOT A NEEDLE AND A THREAD
AND A LITTLE BIT OF ELECTRICITY
ALL RIGHT, WE'RE GONNA CHECK THE TEMPERATURE
AND MAKE SURE THAT EVERYTHING'S READY.
THE RAW MATERIAL FOR ***, A SOUTHERN CLASSIC,
LOAVES OF PROCESSED MEAT SERVED AS COLD CUTS.
YEAH.
IT NEEDS TO COOK FOR A LONG TIME
AND STAY AT A HIGH ENOUGH TEMPERATURE
FOR THE COLLAGEN AND TISSUE IN THE EARS AND INNARDS TO MELT,
BECOME TENDER, AND CREATE THE GLUE
THAT HOLDS ALL OF THIS TOGETHER.
(laughs) WE MADE THIS DIPPER, YEAH.
IT'S THE CUSTOM-MADE *** DIPPER.
THE STEAMING ORGANS GO INTO A GIANT GRINDER
THAT WILL MASH THEM INTO A SLURRY.
YEAH.
IT'S SORT OF LIKE THE SOUTH IS--
WE STILL DO IT THAT WAY DOWN HERE, DON'T WE?
THERE'S NOT A LOT OF TOFU PRODUCTS...
DOWN HERE
NO, NO.
THE ORGAN SLURRY GOES INTO ANOTHER GRINDER,
WHERE WE ADD CRUSHED SWEET PICKLES AND RED PEPPERS
ALONG WITH SUGAR, SALT, AND SPICES.
(man) VINEGAR.
OH, VINEGAR. YOU GOTTA HAVE YOUR VINEGAR.
GALLONS OF VINEGAR
TO BALANCE THE RICH, HEAVY MEATINESS OF THE ORGANS.
(Brad) AUTOMATIC GRINDER.
WHEN THE MIX IS DONE,
BEFORE IT'S SOLIDIFIED AND CHILLED,
PEOPLE HERE AT THE FACTORY HAVE AN OPPORTUNITY
YOU CAN'T GET ANYWHERE ELSE...
WELL, THANK YOU.
GETTING A DRINK OF FRESH, HOT LIQUID ***.
YES.
FOR YOU RIGHT NOW?
'CAUSE RIGHT NOW THIS IS JUST LIKE
A HOT PORK FAT MILK SHAKE.
SURE TASTES GOOD, THOUGH.
NEED SOME WATER?
IT'S AWESOME.
(laughs)
TELL ME.
THIS IS A VERY SPICY, CHILI-SPICY,
MEAT GAZPACHO.
SON OF A GUN. THAT'S FANTASTIC.
I DON'T KNOW IF YOU CAN SEE IN THERE,
BUT YOU HAVE NICE, BIG PIECES
OF CARTILAGINOUS EAR MATERIAL AS WELL
THAT EVADED THE GRINDER.
THIS *** IS AS GOOD AS IT GETS.
TRY IT ON BREAD, ON CRACKERS, OR JUST BY ITSELF.
WOW. THERE'S MELTING LITTLE PIECES OF SKIN
YOU DON'T EVEN KNOW WERE THERE
UNTIL YOU GET 'EM IN YOUR THROAT.
AND I LOVE THE CHEWINESS OF THE EARS. THAT IS--
I MEAN, THAT'S HOG-ERRIFIC.
THE FOOD AND THE MUSIC I'VE BEEN EXPLORING HERE IN MEMPHIS
DESCEND FROM THE HARDSCRABBLE REALITIES OF LIFE IN THE DELTA.
SO I'M HEADING SOUTH, TRAVELING AND EATING MY WAY
THROUGH THE DELTA'S HEART...
ALL RIGHT THOSE REALLY KOOL-AID PICKLES?
DISCOVERING SOME SURPRISING TRADITIONS ALONG THE WAY
AND SOME SURPRISING NEW CREATIONS, TOO.
THIS IS ACTUALLY A B.L.T.--
BACON, LETTUCE, AND TESTICLES.
THERE'S SOMETHING NEW HAPPENING
IN THE KITCHENS OF THE OLD SOUTH,
A PLAYFUL BLENDING OF TRADITIONAL SOUTHERN
WITH EXOTIC EXTRAS.
THIS REDNECK RAMEN MIXES BARBECUED PIGS' EARS
WITH JAPANESE ONSEN EGG.
THIS B.L.T. IS BACON, LETTUCE, AND ***.
THESE ARE CHITTERLINGS.
AND THE INTESTINE IS BATTER-FRIED
AND SPICED WITH ASIAN PEPPERS.
THE CREATIVE MIND IN THIS PARTICULAR KITCHEN
IS CHEF JOHN CURRENCE.
BUT TO SEE HOW AND WHY HE CAN DO WHAT HE DOES...
(beeping)
START IN MEMPHIS
AT THIS GENERIC SUBURBAN STRIP MALL.
THERE'S A GROCERY STORE HERE
THAT'S REALLY CHANGED THE LANDSCAPE
UNBELIEVABLE, ISN'T IT?
YOU'VE GOT TO LIKE A PLACE THAT HAS SEVEN KINDS OF MANGOES
YEAH. AND MORE KINDS OF ORANGES
(chuckles)
WINCHESTER MARKET
IS A MONUMENT TO CHANGING TIMES.
A BURGEONING IMMIGRANT POPULATION IS DRIVING DEMAND
FOR A GLORIOUS ARRAY OF INGREDIENTS.
I MEAN, THERE'S FOUR DIFFERENT KINDS OF YAMS.
EIGHT DIFFERENT TYPES OF MUSHROOM.
HOLY COW--KEWPIE MAYONNAISE IN A GALLON JUG.
TURMERIC.
IT'S NOT THAT THEY HAVE FRESH TURMERIC.
2 BINS.
GREAT THING ABOUT FINDING SO MANY UNEXPECTED INGREDIENTS
IS THAT YOU GET INSPIRED TO TRY COMBINATIONS
THAT MIGHT NOT HAPPEN ANY OTHER WAY.
A LITTLE OF THIS, A LITTLE OF THAT.
ALL RIGHT.
FROM NORTHERN JAPAN THAT'S A KILLER LITTLE MISO SAUCE
THAT I THINK YOU'D REALLY, REALLY LIKE.
ALL OF THE SUDDEN THIS BECAME A JAM SESSION.
(beeping)
10 MILES SOUTH OF MEMPHIS,
YOU CROSS INTO MISSISSIPPI.
ANOTHER 75 MILES BRINGS YOU TO OXFORD,
THE HOME OF OLE MISS AND WILLIAM FAULKNER,
A TOWN THAT LOOKS RIPPED FROM A PICTURE POSTCARD COLLECTION
AT YOUR GREAT-GRANDMA'S HOUSE
BUT WITH A MODERNIST TOLERANCE
FOR CULTURAL GAME-CHANGERS LIKE CURRENCE.
CITY GROCERY IS THE BUILDING
THAT WAS FOR DECADES OXFORD'S GROCERY STORE.
IT'S CURRENCE'S FLAGSHIP EATERY
AND WHERE OUR CULINARY JAM SESSION WILL PLAY OUT,
STARTING WITH PIGS' EARS THAT WILL BECOME REDNECK RAMEN
AFTER COOKING IN A HEARTY STOCK
SPIKED WITH APPLE CIDER VINEGAR.
WE'RE GONNA ADD JUST ENOUGH SALT TO GET SOME SALT INTO IT.
MM-HMM.
BLACK PEPPERCORNS.
REALLY PRETTY BAY LEAVES, RIGHT?
THE EARS NEED A COUPLE OF HOURS IN THE PRESSURE COOKER.
MEANWHILE THERE'S MORE TO DISCOVER.
JOHN'S GOT A LOT OF HEART.
HE'S GOT BALLS, TOO,
FRESH FROM A YOUNG LAMB.
FRESHNESS COUNTS, BY THE WAY.
SLICED, SAUTéED IN BACON FAT AND BUTTER,
SERVED ON HOMEMADE BREAD.
THIS IS A B.B.T.-- A BALLS, BACON, AND, UH...
THIS IS ACTUALLY A B.L.T.--
BACON, LETTUCE, AND TESTICLES.
AND DON'T FORGET THE BASIL MAYONNAISE.
HERE'S TO MY BALLS.
PLEASE TELL PEOPLE
THIS IS NOT GRATUITOUS EATING.
THIS IS NOT GIMMICKRY.
I MEAN, IT'S DELICIOUS.
I MEAN, IT'S LIKE EATING A VEAL CUTLET.
I'VE HAD BALLS A LOT OF WAYS.
I'VE JUST NEVER HAD THE OPPORTUNITY TO HAVE THEM
WITH BACON, LETTUCE, AND TOMATO ON A SANDWICH,
AND THAT IS OUTSTANDING.
AND THE GRILLED LAMB HEARTS EAT LIKE SIRLOIN.
AND I MEAN, I ABSOLUTELY LOVE 'EM.
I MEAN, IT'S PURE MUSCLE, ABSOLUTELY PURE MUSCLE.
AND I GO TO WORK ON MY SAUCE.
SO JUST THE SAKE, THE MIRIN, AND THE MISO?
YEAH, LIKE 1/4 CUP EACH...
ABOUT 1/4 CUP OF SUGAR,
ABOUT A CUP OF MISO.
AND I USUALLY GO THREE, FOUR EGGS
AND BEAT 'EM IN AS IT STARTS TO GET WARM.
A TASTE OF NORTHERN JAPAN
BY WAY OF A MEMPHIS GROCERY STORE--
RIFFS THAT AREN'T FOREIGN TO THE CUSTOMERS AT CITY GROCERY,
WHERE JOHN AND HIS STAFF PLAY SWEET MUSIC NIGHTLY.
OH, THAT'S A GATEWAY DRUG.
OUTSTANDING.
THERE'S ALMOST NO FAT. THERE'S MORE FAT ON THE SALAD
THAN THERE IS ON ANYTHING ELSE ON THERE.
WHEN THE PIGS' EARS COME OUT OF THE PRESSURE COOKER,
THEY'RE PAN-FRIED WITH BUTTER AND CHINESE BLACK VINEGAR
AND SERVED WITH RAMEN NOODLES AND A SOFT EGG.
YOU GET A UNIQUE MARRIAGE OF NORTHERN JAPAN
AND SOUTHERN AMERICAN,
AND A COMPLETELY UNEXPECTED EVOLUTION
OF THE BARBECUE-EATING EXPERIENCE.
(John) THE IDEA OF PORK AND VINEGAR
AND SWEETNESS AND SPICE-- YOU KNOW, TAKE THOSE ELEMENTS
THAT'S A HOME RUN.
HOLY COW.
MMM.
THAT'S ONE OF THE BEST THINGS I'VE TASTED IN A LONG TIME.
AND I DON'T THINK ANYTHING PLAYS MORE
INTO THE "GET INSPIRED GLOBALLY BUT COOK LOCALLY" VIBE
THAN USING INGREDIENTS LIKE THE ONES THAT YOU HAVE
WITH WHAT IS ESSENTIALLY THE MOST TRADITIONAL
JAPANESE COMFORT FOOD.
SERIOUSLY, DON'T LOSE-- DON'T LOSE THIS.
JOHN'S LEADING THE WAY FOR A NEW GENERATION
REINVENTING SOUTHERN COOKING,
SORT OF LIKE YOUNGER MUSICIANS
HAVE REINVENTED TRADITIONAL BLUES.
THE NEW STUFF CAN BE GREAT.
BUT I'M REALLY EXCITED TO BE HEADING INTO A LAND
WHERE YOU CAN STILL FIND THE ORIGINALS
AND MEET SOME FUN PEOPLE IN THE PROCESS.
ARE YOU CHEWING ON YOUR BONE? YEAH. NO, THAT'S DONE.
♪♪
TODAY I'LL BE HEADING
INTO THE HEART OF THE MISSISSIPPI DELTA.
BUT BEFORE I LEAVE OXFORD BEHIND,
I'M DOING LUNCH AT A PLACE HERE IN TOWN
THAT SUMS UP EVERYTHING THAT'S SPECIAL
ABOUT THE FOOD IN THIS CORNER OF THE COUNTRY.
AND THE MAN WHO'S BRINGING ME TO MAMA JO'S,
IS PROBABLY THE BEST PERSON IN AMERICA
TO HELP ME PLAN A FOOD TRIP THROUGH THE DEEP SOUTH.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
I DO.
JOHN T. EDGE IS DIRECTOR OF THE SOUTHERN FOODWAYS ALLIANCE,
DEVOTED TO DOCUMENTING AND CELEBRATING
SOUTHERN FOOD CULTURE.
HE'S ONE OF A HANDFUL
OF THE MOST AUTHORITATIVE AND AWARDED FOOD WRITERS
AND HISTORIANS IN AMERICA.
WHAT'S THE ONE THING I SHOULDN'T MISS?
WELL, EVERYTHING OVER THERE IS PRETTY WONDERFUL TODAY.
SMOTHERED PORK CHOP. THAT'S ME.
NECK BONES?
BOILED OKRA.
YOU'VE GOT SWEET POTATO YAMS, PURPLE HULL PEAS,
STEAMED CABBAGE.
YEAH, THE STANDARD IS A MEAT AND THREE.
THAT'S WHAT A PLOW HAND WOULD HAVE EATEN AFTER THEY FARMED...
YOU KNOW, WITH A MEAT AND THREE VEGETABLES.
I CAN STILL GET THREE AND THREE.
THERE'S ALSO CORNBREAD, FRIED CORNBREAD,
AND ROTEL--PASTA NOODLES IN A SAUCE WITH A LITTLE CHICKEN
AND VAST QUANTITIES OF VELVEETA.
THIS ISN'T FOOD MADE TO IMPRESS.
IT'S MADE TO GIVE PEOPLE A GOOD MEAL AT A GOOD PRICE.
IT'S REALLY WHOLESOME. YOU FEEL COMFORTED.
IT'S TASTY AND WELL-PREPARED,
AND SOMEONE REALLY UNDERSTANDS THAT YOU'RE EATING IT
FOR THE ENJOYMENT'S SAKE.
(John T.) WELL, IT'S INTERESTING THAT YOU NOTICE THAT
YOU KNOW, MAMA JO WAS A FRATERNITY HOUSE COOK
BEFORE SHE OPENED THIS.
SHE'S ACCUSTOMED TO TAKING CARE
MM-HMM.
MM-HMM.
AND THAT TO ME IS WHAT THIS PLACE FEELS LIKE.
THE CORNBREAD'S MADE FROM SCRATCH
WITH A LITTLE EXTRA FLOUR AND PAN-FRIED
SO IT CAN STAND UP TO THE RICH, HEAVY GRAVY
THAT THE PORK IS SAUCED IN.
THE UBER-CHEESY ROTEL
MAKES A FILLING ENTRéE
OUT OF WHAT WOULD NORMALLY BE SIDE DISHES.
THIS KIND OF COOKING COMES OUT OF A VERY OLD TRADITION
OF MAKING A LITTLE GO A LONG WAY.
RIGHT.
YOU KNOW, IT'S NOT A TRIBUTE TO THE MEAT AND THREES
MM-HMM.
MM-HMM.
THOSE ARE WORDS TO LIVE BY,
TRAVELING THROUGH THE DELTA.
THIS ISN'T A LIVING HISTORY MUSEUM.
IT'S A GENUINE WAY OF LIFE.
EVERYTHING WAS DELICIOUS, REALLY, REALLY GOOD.
VEGETABLES WERE SUPERB. I LOVE MY SMOTHERED PORK CHOP.
I'M GONNA CHEW ON THE BONE ONCE THE CAMERAS ARE DONE,
OKAY. (laughs)
WELL, THAT'S THE BEST PART.
DON'T LAUGH. THAT'S THE BEST PART.
ARE YOU CHEWING ON YOUR BONE?
YEAH. NO, THAT'S DONE. THAT'S DONE.
THE FOOD AT MAMA JO'S FEEDS A CROSS-SECTION OF OXFORD,
FROM COLLEGE STUDENTS TO RETIREES,
BECAUSE IT'S CHEAP AND PLENTIFUL
AND MADE FRESH EVERY DAY, NO THAWING OR REHEATING,
AND SERVED WITH LOVE.
YOU CARE ABOUT EVERYONE WHO COMES IN THIS DOOR...
AND YOU CAN TASTE IT ON THE PLATE.
YOU KNOW?
IT IS THE LOVE PART.
BUT YOU CAN'T GET THIS--
YOU--EVEN IF YOU PICKED UP MAMA JO
AND BROUGHT HER-- NOT THE SAME.
THAT'S THE KIND OF EXPERIENCE I'M LOOKING FOR,
HEADING OUT FROM OXFORD
AND PICKING UP THE LEGENDARY HIGHWAY 61,
THE BLUES HIGHWAY.
IT RUNS RIGHT THROUGH THE HEART OF THE DELTA
FROM MEMPHIS TO VICKSBURG
THE OTHER DELTA ARTERY IS HIGHWAY 49.
CLARKSDALE IS WHERE THE TWO ROADS CROSS,
AND THAT'S THE PLACE I'M HEADING FOR.
DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY,
SOME PARTING ADVICE FROM JOHN T. IS ON MY MIND.
"KEEP AN EYE PEELED FOR GAS STATIONS."
50 YEARS AGO,
CORNER GROCERY STORES USED TO SERVE FOOD ON THE SIDE
AN EVOLVED INTO LOCAL RESTAURANTS.
THAT SAME EVOLUTION IS HAPPENING TODAY
AT THE LOCAL FUEL AND FOOD STOP.
OH, YEAH.
NOTHING HERE HAS BEEN FROZEN AND REHEATED.
CHICKEN LIVERS.
YEAH, BUT MAYBE A LITTLE FRIED OKRA, RIGHT?
AND THERE'S ANOTHER REGIONAL DELICACY
JOHN T. TOLD ME TO LOOK FOR-- KOOLICLES.
(woman) YES, THEY ARE.
FANTASTIC.
ROAD FOOD RULE 101--
EATING ON THE HOOD MUCH BETTER.
THE OKRA IS CUT BY HAND,
DREDGED IN FLOUR BACK THERE,
AND FRIED AND SEASONED.
CHICKEN--SAME DEAL. CHICKEN LIVERS--SAME DEAL.
THEY TASTE LIKE GREAT CHICKEN LIVERS
IN ALL OF THEIR MUDDY,
MINERALLY, ORGAN-Y GLORY.
AND WHEN I EAT CHICKEN LIVER, ESPECIALLY LIKE THIS,
I WANT A LITTLE SOMETHING SWEET AND SOUR TO GO WITH IT.
A KOOLICLE-- A KOOL-AID PICKLE.
IT'S A SOUR PICKLE THAT'S BEEN CUT IN HALF
AND MARINATED IN DOUBLE-STRENGTH CHERRY KOOL-AID
IN THIS CASE.
AND YOU REALLY CAN TASTE IT ALL. WHAT'S GOING ON?
NOT BAD.
YOU HAVE TO LOVE A PART OF THE WORLD, TOO,
WHERE YOU'RE NOT OUT OF PLACE JUST SITTING,
EATING DINNER OVER THE HOOD OF YOUR CAR IN A GAS STATION.
FANTASTIC.
THE DOUBLE QUICK IS MY GATEWAY TO CLARKSDALE,
THE TOWN AT THE CROSSROADS OF HIGHWAYS 61 AND 49,
THE SAME CROSSROADS WHERE THEY SAY
BLUES LEGEND ROBERT JOHNSON MET THE DEVIL
AND GOT HIS SKILL WITH THE GUITAR
BY TRADING IN HIS SOUL.
BUT FINDING GREAT HOME COOKING AT A GAS STATION
ISN'T THE ONLY FOOD SURPRISE AROUND HERE.
TAMALES--THEY COME IN 3, 6, 12s?
NO, IT'S NOT A MEXICAN RESTAURANT.
THE DELTA MAKES ITS OWN HOT TAMALES--
100% MISSISSIPPI.
THIS IS GONNA BE A 17-ANTACID-TABLET MEAL
IF THERE EVER WAS ONE.
AND THIS MEAL IS 100% MISSISSIPPI, TOO,
WE'RE DOING CRAWDADS CANTONESE.
(Andrew) I WAS HOPING WE WERE GONNA HAVE
(all laughing)
♪♪
CLARKSDALE, MISSISSIPPI, IS THE HEART OF THE DELTA.
ANCIENT AND CRUMBLING IN PARTS,
THIS IS A CITY CLINGING TO LIFE
AND CELEBRATING EVERY SECOND OF IT.
THERE'S ALSO A FACTORY HERE MAKING WHAT MAY BE
THE BEST PORK RINDS AND CHICKEN CRACKLINGS IN THE SOUTH.
IT'S A QUINTESSENTIAL SOUTHERN SNACK
AND THE FAMILY RUNNING THIS BUSINESS
IS ETHNIC CHINESE.
AT AGE 75, KIM WONG IS A BLACK BELT IN TAI CHI,
A SKILLED PAINTER,
AND A SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS OWNER.
HE CAME TO AMERICA AS A CHILD IN 1949.
HIS SON JOHN WAS BORN AND RAISED IN MISSISSIPPI.
THEY SAY I SPEAK CHINESE, BUT IT'S A REDNECK CHINESE...
IT'S A REDNECK CHINESE?
I LOVE IT.
THE MISSISSIPPI DELTA CAN FEEL REMOTE AND ISOLATED.
BUT THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER MADE THIS A COSMOPOLITAN PLACE
BACK WHEN IT WAS THE NATION'S SUPERHIGHWAY.
CHINESE IMMIGRANTS CAME TO WORK THE FIELDS
AND FOUND SUCCESS OPERATING SMALL GROCERY STORES.
KIM WONG RAN A GROCERY STORE AND RESTAURANT.
AND HE GOT THE IDEA FOR BUILDING A BETTER PORK RIND
FROM HIS FAMILY'S RECIPE FOR CHINESE-STYLE ROAST PORK.
IN OUR RESTAURANT, YOU KNOW, YOU SEEN THE BARBECUE PORK.
AND I HAS A LITTLE THIN LAYER OF SKIN ON TOP.
CHINESE-STYLE ROAST PORK IS ONE OF THE FOODS I LOVE SO MUCH,
I CARRY ITS PICTURE WITH ME.
THAT'S WHAT YOUR DAD WAS TALKING ABOUT...
WAS THE SKIN...
ON THE TRADITIONAL CHINESE-STYLE ROAST PORK.
THE METHOD'S ESSENTIALLY THE SAME
FOR BOTH CHICKEN AND PORK SKINS.
THE PIECES ARE TRIMMED AND CUT,
RUBBED WITH SALT OR SPICES DEPENDING ON THE STYLE,
AND INSTEAD OF GOING INTO A DEEP FRYER,
THEY'RE FRIED IN A WOK.
THIS IS ACTUALLY REAL COOKING.
JUST LOOK--
SKIN, FAT, MEAT.
YOU HAVE SOME WITH LEAN ON THERE.
THAT IS WHAT YOU WERE TALKING ABOUT
THAT'S CORRECT.
TODAY NOBODY IS ABLE TO COPY FROM US.
NO, PEOPLE--YOU DO NOT SEE THIS ANYMORE.
THERE'S A CRISPY, CRUNCHY SKIN.
THERE'S THAT SOFT, YIELDING, RENDERED FAT
THAT LEAVES THOSE POCKETS OF AIR.
IT'S ALMOST A LITTLE BIT SPONGY, BUT GOOD.
RIGHT NEXT DOOR TO THE ROOM WHERE THEY'RE COOKED
IS THE ROOM WHERE THEY'RE PACKED.
THIS LITERALLY GOES FROM IN THERE
INTO THE BUCKETS FOR SEASONING,
COOLS, AND THEN JUST GETS PACKED RIGHT AWAY.
AFTER IT COOLS.
THAT'S-- THAT'S FANTASTIC.
THIS IS BY-HAND, SMALL-BATCH,
AND IT'S A KILLER PRODUCT.
THEY'RE TURNING OUT THOUSANDS OF POUNDS OF CRACKLINGS,
SUPPLYING STORES IN 13 STATES.
I THINK THIS IS GREAT NEWS.
YOU'RE SORT OF REINVENTING THE WHEEL
WITHOUT REINVENTING THE WHEEL. THIS IS A GREAT SUCCESS STORY.
CHINESE COOKING WITH A SOUTHERN ACCENT
ISN'T THAT RARE AROUND THESE PARTS.
JUST ACROSS TOWN,
I'VE BEEN INVITED TO A FAMILY COOKOUT.
GOOD JOB.
THERE'S A COLD RAIN OUTSIDE,
BUT IT'S PLENTY WARM IN THIS CARPORT.
I KNOW A LOT OF REALLY GREAT CHINESE RESTAURANTS
THAT DON'T HAVE FOUR WOK STATIONS.
THIS IS A GREAT SETUP.
THE CHOW FAMILY HAS BEEN LIVING IN AMERICA
FOR FOUR GENERATIONS.
A FAMILY GATHERING LIKE THIS ONE
IS A SHOWCASE OF THE WONDERFUL THINGS THAT CAN HAPPEN
WHEN FAR EAST MEETS DEEP SOUTH.
THE HEAD COOKS ARE GILROY CHOW AND HIS WIFE SALLY.
THE HOUSE BELONGS TO GILROY'S BROTHER AUDRIC.
AND THERE'S A CROWD OF CHILDREN, COUSINS,
AND IN-LAWS.
I THINK THIS IS DONE.
I NEED SOMEBODY TO SEE IF IT'S DONE.
YOU DON'T HAVE TO ASK ME TWICE.
OH.
WOW. YOU GUYS DON'T MESS AROUND.
BARBECUE SPARERIBS
GLAZED WITH CHINESE SEASONING AND MISSISSIPPI HONEY.
LIKE THE WONG FAMILY,
THE CHOWS STARTED OUT IN CLARKSDALE
RUNNING A GROCERY STORE.
TODAY THEY'RE A FAMILY OF WHITE-COLLAR PROFESSIONALS.
WELL, I'M IN CHARGE
OF THE PIG TAILS AND THE PIG FEET.
SALLY CHOW IS A SCHOOLTEACHER
WHO'S RECOGNIZED AS THE TOP CHEF
IN A FAMILY FULL OF GOOD COOKS.
SHE'S MIXING UP THE PIG TAILS AND FEET
WITH GINGER, SOY, AND STAR ANISE
AND USING BLACK-EYED PEAS IN PLACE OF THE CHINESE COMBO
OF PORK AND FERMENTED BLACK BEANS.
PORK AND BEANS IS NOT SOMETHING
THAT WOULD BE UNFAMILIAR TO ANYONE IN CHINA.
THEY WOULD JUST BE DIFFERENT TYPES OF BEANS.
(Sally) THIS IS SOMETHING WE DO WHERE WE BLEND IN
YEAH. ABSOLUTELY.
THERE'S GOING TO BE VENISON PEPPER STEAK
FROM A DEER SHOT AND DRESSED BY SALLY'S HUSBAND GILROY,
FRESH-CAUGHT BASS IN A SAUCE OF GINGER, SOY, AND GARLIC.
IN PLACE OF BISCUITS, THERE'S A BEAN CURD CAKE
FLAVORED WITH SEAWEED.
IT'S AMAZING FOR PEOPLE TO SEE
THAT THIS IS LITERALLY THE TEXTURE OF BRILLO.
AND THEN WHAT COMES OUT
IS THIS GORGEOUS PALE GREEN.
AND THE FAMILY VERSION OF SHRIMP.
WE'RE DOING CRAWDADS CANTONESE.
(all laughing)
WE'RE HAVING CRAWDADS CANTONESE.
YOU CAN'T LEAVE THE DELTA WITHOUT HAVING CRAWDADS.
NO, I WAS HOPING WE WERE GONNA HAVE CHENGDU CHITTERLINGS.
(all laughing)
THE PIGS' FEET ARE READY TO COME OFF THE STOVE,
DRIPPING WITH GINGER AND GARLIC.
IT'S JUST FANTASTIC.
SALTY, SWEET-- IT'S REALLY THE--
AND IT'S THE PERFECT FOIL FOR THE SKIN.
I GOTTA TELL YOU,
IF YOU CAN'T TRUST A CHINESE COOK IN MISSISSIPPI
(laughing)
YOU REALLY--RIGHT? YOU KNOW WHAT I'M SAYING?
OUT IN THE CARPORT,
THE COOKING IS ENTERING THE HOMESTRETCH.
JUST FANTASTIC.
THERE'S THE FRIED RICE MADE WITH DELTA RICE
THE FAMILY GROWS THEMSELVES.
OH, THAT SMELLS GOOD.
BY THE WAY, THE SMELL IN THIS CARPORT
OF GINGER AND SESAME OIL...
IT'S A SOUTHERN STIR-FRY.
THERE ARE YOUNG, VIBRANT COLLARD GREENS...
THAT'S CRAZY. THOSE ARE LIKE CANDY.
FISH, RIBS, VENISON,
I'LL TELL YOU SOMETHING,
IF THIS DOESN'T MAKE YOU WANT TO GET
AN OUTDOOR COOKING STATION FOR YOUR WOK AT HOME,
I DON'T KNOW WHAT TO TELL YOU. THIS IS FUN.
(Audric) LORD, WE THANK YOU FOR THE DAY AND THE BEAUTY OF IT.
AND THANK YOU FOR ANDREW AND FOR HIS CREW TO COME.
AMEN.
I DO FIND IT FASCINATING
THAT THE ONE THING THAT I THOUGHT FOR SURE
WHAT'S THAT?
(all laughing)
LISTEN. LISTEN TO THEM. "BWA HA HA HA.
CHOPSTICKS IN MISSISSIPPI?"
IF YOU'RE ON A DIET, THAT'S WHEN YOU USE CHOPSTICKS.
OH, HO HO HO! I LOVE IT.
IN A KITCHEN FULL OF GREAT FOOD,
HIGH HONORS GOES TO THE VENISON PEPPER STEAK.
THIS IS AS GOOD A VERSION OF THIS DISH AS I'VE EVER HAD IT.
AND I'VE HAD IT IN GUANGZHOU WHERE IT'S FROM.
THAT'S OUTSTANDING.
MY GOODNESS.
THE FISH IS JUST GORGEOUS, TOO.
THAT GINGER-GARLIC-BACON SAUCE ON THERE--
IT'S THE DELTA.
I MEAN, I'M CHANGE-- THAT IS SOMETHING--
I AM NOW GOING TO DO IT THAT WAY.
THAT IS JUST PERFECT.
THIS MEAL IS MORE PROOF THAT DELTA TRADITION
IS ALIVE AND WELL AND REINVENTING ITSELF
WITH EACH NEW GENERATION.
AND BEFORE THIS ROAD TRIP IS THROUGH,
I'LL BE BACK IN CLARKSDALE
FOR ONE MORE EXTRAORDINARY EXPERIENCE OF LIVING TRADITION,
MUSIC AND FOOD COMING TOGETHER IN A PLACE
I GOT NEWS FOR YOU.
THERE'S PEOPLE THAT STRUGGLE A LIFETIME
AND NEVER COOK A RACK OF RIBS LIKE THIS EVER.
EVER. EVER.
BUT FIRST I'M FINISHING OUT MY ROAD TRIP DOWN HIGHWAY 61
GOING TO JACKSON...
THOSE EARS ARE SO TENDER, YOU COULD GUM THEM.
YOU DON'T EVEN NEED TEETH.
AND TO A PLACE WHERE MAKING SANDWICHES OUT OF PIGS' EARS
IS MORE THAN JUST A BUSINESS, IT'S A PUBLIC SERVICE.
YEAH.
♪♪
TRAVELING AROUND THE MISSISSIPPI DELTA,
ONE OF THE STRANGEST FOODS YOU'LL FIND
IS SOMETHING CALLED DELTA HOT TAMALES.
NO ONE REALLY KNOWS HOW THEY GOT HERE,
BUT BY THE 1920s THEY WERE EVERYWHERE IN THESE PARTS.
THEY STILL ARE.
ONE OF THE MOST CELEBRATED TAMALE STANDS IN THE DELTA
IS HERE ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF CLARKSDALE--
HICK'S WORLD-FAMOUS HOT TAMALES.
DOING GOOD. WHAT CAN I DO FOR YOU TODAY?
EUGENE HICKS LEARNED HOW TO MAKE TAMALES
MORE THAN 50 YEARS AGO FROM A LOCAL STREET PEDDLER,
WHO COOKED THEM OVER A WOOD FIRE.
EUGENE'S NEVER WRITTEN DOWN HIS RECIPE,
THERE YOU GO.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
GETTING TAMALES OUT OF THE HUSK IS TOO COMPLICATED
TO EAT AND DRIVE AT THE SAME TIME,
SO I'LL JUST DIG IN RIGHT HERE.
THIS CERTAINLY IS A HYBRIDIZED SYNCRETIC FOOD.
I CAN TELL YOU THAT.
THIS IS KIND OF THE CHUNKY ROAD FOOD OF YOUR DREAMS.
QUITE FRANKLY, NOW I REALLY WANT TO TRY IT
IN CHILI AND CHEESE. (laughing)
OH, MY.
SO WHY IS THERE SUCH PASSION FOR HICK'S TAMALES?
IT'S QUINTESSENTIAL COMFORT FOOD FOR THE ROAD,
AND IT'S SUPERCHEAP, SUPERFAST FOOD
THAT THE FOLKS AROUND HERE GREW UP ON.
I'LL TELL YOU, THIS IS THE INEXPLICABLE
PASSIONATE CONUNDRUM ABOUT ROAD FOOD.
YOU TASTE A BITE ON ITS OWN,
ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO RECOMMEND ABOUT IT,
BUT TOGETHER, SITTING HERE IN THE VEHICLE,
I DON'T THINK I'M GONNA LEAVE A DROP ON THIS PLATE.
WOW.
TODAY I'M HEADED SOUTH ON HIGHWAY 61 TOWARDS VICKSBURG
AND FROM THERE OVER TO JACKSON.
ALL ALONG THE WAY
THERE ARE MORE OF THOSE GAS STATION/CONVENIENCE STORES
THAT SEEM TO BE THE HOTBEDS OF GENUINE DELTA COOKING.
DELTA FAST FOOD USED TO BE A GAS STATION.
IT STILL IS A CONVENIENCE STORE.
AND IT'S ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR
GRAB-AND-GO LUNCH STOPS IN CLEVELAND, MISSISSIPPI.
IT'S OPERATED BY GENTLE LEE RAINEY,
WHOSE COURTLY COURTESY LIVES UP TO HIS NAME.
BARBECUE PORK RIB TIPS IS ONE OF THE HOUSE SPECIALTIES.
A LARGE, UH, ORDER OF RIB TIPS
AND, UH, CHICKEN LIVERS FRIED.
HOT.
YEAH.
ALL RIGHT. THAT SOUNDS GOOD.
IT'LL TAKE ABOUT TEN MINUTES TO FILL MY ORDER.
EVERYONE WAITING FOR LUNCH BACK THERE? WHAT'S THE DEAL?
YOU NEVER KNOW WHAT'S GOING ON BACK HERE.
OH, RECREATION.
I DO SHOOT POOL.
YEAH. NO, I'LL PLAY A GAME OF POOL.
MY NEW FRIEND MELVIN AND I ARE MAKING A FRIENDLY BET.
LOSER BUYS LUNCH FOR THE WINNER.
WHY DO I HAVE THE SINKING FEELING
I'M ABOUT TO GET TAKEN?
NOW YOU'RE JUST SHOWING OFF, MELVIN.
SON OF A GUN, I'M GONNA HAVE TO BUY HIM LUNCH.
WHENEVER YOU GET A CHANCE,
REALLY?
HE HUSTLE YOU?
ONE THING ABOUT IT,
WHEN YOU'RE DOWN HERE AND YOU CAN'T PLAY,
IT'S SO TRUE.
THE GOOD NEWS IS THE PRICES ARE VERY REASONABLE
AT DELTA FAST FOOD.
WE EVEN.
WE'RE EVEN. WE'RE EVEN.
I'M ONLY OUT ABOUT 5 BUCKS
AND A LITTLE BIT OF MANLY PRIDE.
(man) YOU'RE IN THE SOUTH.
NOT TOO GLOPPY. THAT'S GOOD PORK, TOO.
WOW.
WELL, NO WONDER YOU GUYS COME HERE A LOT.
THE FOOD IS GOOD.
AND THE POOL IS--WELL, IT WASN'T FREE FOR ME TODAY, BUT...
(laughter)
ICONIC EATERIES IN THE DELTA
ARE ABOUT MORE THAN JUST THE FLAVOR OF THE FOOD.
THEY'RE GATHERING PLACES FOR A COMMUNITY.
IT'S THE SAME STORY WHEN YOU HIT MISSISSIPPI'S BIGGEST CITY
AND ITS CAPITAL JACKSON.
THERE ARE SOME GREAT NEW PLACES HERE
LIKE THE PARLOR MARKET
WHERE CHEF JESSE HOUSTON PUTS A NEW SPIN
ON OLD SOUTHERN FAVORITES,
INVENTING THINGS LIKE CATFISH PâTé.
BUT I WENT LOOKING FOR A COMMUNITY HANGOUT
WHERE THEY TAKE PRIDE IN MAKING FOOD
THE SAME WAY IT'S BEEN DONE FOR 50 YEARS.
ON FARISH STREET, AMONG A LOT OF EMPTY STOREFRONTS
AND AGING BUILDINGS, THERE'S THE BIG APPLE INN.
ASK ANY SOUTHERN FOODIE WHERE YOU SHOULD GO IN JACKSON,
THIS PLACE IS ONE OF THE FIRST THEY'LL NAME.
DO YOU WANT ME TO GET YOUR ORDER?
NO.
NO.
NO.
I'M JOKING. EVERYBODY KNOWS WHAT THEY REALLY SELL HERE.
TWO SAUSAGE SANDWICHES,
TWO EARS.
YEAH, TWO EARS, TWO SAUSAGE, AND A TAMALE.
DO NOT EVER COME HERE AND ORDER A B.L.T. EVER.
BIG APPLE INN HAS BEEN SELLING ITS SPECIALTIES
TO PEOPLE IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD SINCE 1939.
THAT'S WHEN GENO LEE'S GREAT-GRANDFATHER
STARTED THE BUSINESS.
ALL EARS.
EVERY DAY, SOMEONE, OFTEN GENO HIMSELF,
IS WORKING HERE IN THE BACK OF THE STORE.
ABOUT 100 PIGS' EARS, SLICED INTO 3 PIECES
FOR MAKING 300 SANDWICHES.
THE SLICED EARS ARE COOKED IN A PRESSURE COOKER
AND GET A QUICK TURN ON THE GRIDDLE
BEFORE GOING ON A BUN WITH MUSTARDY COLE SLAW.
TRUTH BE TOLD, IT'S NOT A GLAMOROUS JOB.
BUT EACH NEW GENERATION OF THE LEES
CHOOSES TO KEEP IT IN THE FAMILY.
YEAH.
RIGHT.
RIGHT.
YEAH.
YEAH.
BIG APPLE HASN'T JUST BEEN SERVING FOOD ALL THOSE YEARS.
IT'S BEEN A COMMUNITY MAINSTAY.
CIVIL RIGHTS LEADER MEDGAR EVERS
HAD HIS OFFICE UPSTAIRS.
YEAH.
AND WHEN HE USED TO HAVE MEETINGS,
RIGHT.
IN THE DAYS WHEN JACKSON'S AFRICAN-AMERICANS
COULDN'T EVEN GET SERVED IN A LOT OF THE CITY'S RESTAURANTS,
BIG APPLE WAS HERE, AND SOMEHOW IT STAYS OPEN
THROUGH ALL THE COMMUNITY UPS AND DOWNS.
WHEN THEY WAS 10 CENTS.
LET'S GO 60 YEARS THEN.
I'M 67.
UNBELIEVABLE.
HERE YOU GO, TWO SMOKES AND TWO EARS.
TWO SMOKES AND TWO EARS.
"SMOKES" IS WHAT THEY CALL THE SAUSAGE SANDWICHES.
THESE ARE ACTUALLY BIGGER SELLERS THAN THE PIGS' EARS.
THAT'S A SANDWICH AND A HALF. MMM.
AND IT SEEMS THE ONE THING ALL FOOD IN MISSISSIPPI HAS--
WHENEVER I ORDER A SANDWICH,
IF IT'S GOT SLAW AND MUSTARD ON IT,
IT'S GONNA BE THAT GORGEOUS YELLOW MUSTARD
WITH THAT CHOPPED LITTLE VINEGARY CABBAGE SLAW.
IT'S THE PERFECT COMPLEMENT TO ANYTHING THIS PORKY.
PIGS' EARS CAN BE A LITTLE TOUGHER TO EAT, LITERALLY.
THEY'RE LIKE LEATHER, UNLESS YOU KNOW HOW TO COOK 'EM.
GENO KNOWS HOW.
THOSE EARS ARE SO TENDER, YOU COULD GUM THEM.
YOU DON'T EVEN NEED TEETH.
PIG EARS--
SOME PEOPLE THINK IT'S AN ACQUIRED TASTE.
I THINK IT'S PRETTY EASY.
I MEAN, IF YOU LIKE YUMMY PORK SKIN,
YOU'LL LOVE A PIG'S EAR.
NO WONDER THESE PEOPLE HAVE BEEN OPEN THIS MANY YEARS.
IT SEEMS SIMPLE,
BUT IF IT WAS THAT EASY, MORE PEOPLE WOULD DO IT.
I'VE HAD A GOOD TASTE OF THE BEST FOOD
ALONG THE BLUES TRAIL.
BUT I'M STILL LOOKING FOR A REAL EXPERIENCE OF THE MUSIC.
THIS IS THE JUKE JOINT
IN ALL OF THE STATE OF MISSISSIPPI.
COME ON!
IN A PLACE THAT'S AS CLOSE AS YOU CAN GET
TO THE SHACKS WHERE DELTA BLUES BEGAN.
IT'S A MUSIC NIGHT IN CLARKSDALE
WHERE THE MUSIC IS ONE OF A KIND,
AND THE FOOD'S PRETTY SPECIAL, TOO.
IT IS WHAT IT IS.
(cheers and applause)
♪♪
IT'S A MUSIC NIGHT AT RED'S LOUNGE
IN CLARKSDALE, MISSISSIPPI,
ONE OF THE LAST TRUE JUKE JOINTS IN THE DELTA.
OUTSIDE THERE'S CHICKEN AND RIBS ON THE GRILL.
INSIDE, WATERMELON SLIM IS AT THE MICROPHONE.
IF YOU'VE NEVER BEEN IN A JUKE JOINT BEFORE, FOLKS,
THIS IS THE JUKE JOINT
IN ALL OF THE STATE OF MISSISSIPPI.
COME ON!
IN THE EARLY 1900s,
A JUKE JOINT WAS ANYPLACE WHERE ON WEEKENDS
OVERWORKED AND UNDERPAID FIELD HANDS
COULD DRINK AND DANCE AND PARTY...
NOT REALLY A BAR OR A CLUB,
MORE OFTEN JUST A SHACK...
OR A FORMER MUSIC STORE.
BY DAY, RED'S LOUNGE LOOKS LIKE AN ABANDONED BUILDING.
BY NIGHT, IN A SPACE NOT MUCH BIGGER
THAN A GOOD-SIZED LIVING ROOM,
A MUSICIAN CAN SET UP A CHAIR, AN AMP,
A COLLECTION BUCKET, AND DRAW A CROWD.
AND JUST LIKE THE OLD DAYS, PEOPLE DON'T SELL FOOD.
THEY BRING THEIR OWN AND SHARE IT.
YEAH.
YEAH?
THIS ALL HAPPENS IN A TOWN DEDICATED TO THE BLUES.
CLARKSDALE'S GOT MORE THAN ITS SHARE OF MUSIC LANDMARKS.
THE DELTA'S FIRST RADIO STATION, WROX,
IS WHERE IKE TURNER DEEJAYED AND ELVIS PERFORMED LIVE.
THE RIVERSIDE HOTEL--
WHERE TURNED LIVED AND BESSIE SMITH DIED.
DOWNTOWN CLARKSDALE FEELS LIKE A PLACE
WHERE TIME STANDS STILL.
AND THAT MAKES IT A KIND OF AMBER,
PRESERVING AN ENVIRONMENT
FOR THE LAST OF THE TRUE DELTA BLUESMEN.
JIMMY "DUCK" HOLMES
PLAYS A STYLE OF BLUES CALLED BENTONIA.
A UNIQUE STYLE OF TUNING GIVES IT A HAUNTING SOUND
ALONG WITH AN INTRICATE STYLE OF PICKING.
LISTEN TO THE SOUND THAT COMES OUT OF THAT ONE GUITAR.
IF YOU DIDN'T SEE IT BEING PLAYED LIVE IN FRONT OF YOU,
YOU MIGHT THINK IT WAS TWO INSTRUMENTS.
(cheers and applause)
IT'S AMAZING.
AND HERE AT RED'S, THERE'S MUSIC AND FOOD.
ON MUSIC NIGHTS, RED PADEN LIKES TO SIT OUT FRONT
WITH CHICKEN AND RIBS COOKING IN HIS SMOKER.
THIS IS PRETTY DARN TASTY.
IT IS WHAT IT IS. YOU KNOW HOW LONG I'VE BEEN--
I'VE BEEN BARBECUING DAMN NEAR 60 YEARS.
I GOT NEWS FOR YOU.
THERE'S PEOPLE THAT STRUGGLE A LIFETIME
AND NEVER COOK A RACK OF RIBS LIKE THIS EVER. EVER.
AND THEN YOU JUST WALK DOWN THE STREET,
AND YOU SEE SOMEONE WHO'S GOT THE GIFT.
YOU HAVE THE GIFT, MY FRIEND.
YOU HAVE THE GIFT.
OH.
(laughter)
I CAN'T EXPLAIN TO YOU
HOW RED MAKES HIS BARBECUE TASTE SO GOOD
ANY MORE THAN I CAN EXPLAIN
HOW JIMMY "DUCK" HOLMES' MUSIC
CREATES THE FEELING THAT IT DOES.
BUT WITH BOTH THE MUSIC AND THE FOOD OF THE DELTA,
HERE'S HOW IT WORKS--
THE OLD MASTERS ARE IRREPLACEABLE.
WHEN THEY'RE GONE, SOMETHING UNIQUE
ABOUT THIS MUSIC AND FOOD WILL BE GONE, TOO.
BUT THERE'S A NEW GENERATION OF CHEFS AND MUSICIANS
EAGER TO ACCEPT THE TORCH THAT'S BEING PASSED TO THEM,
PEOPLE COMING TO HONOR AND LEARN FROM THE MASTERS.
IT'S AN HONOR TO BE ABLE TO GET UP
AND EVEN PLAY THIS GUITAR.
AN UP-AND-COMING BLUESMAN LIKE MARK MASSEY
COULD NEVER SUCCESSFULLY IMITATE THE SOUND
OF A JIMMY "DUCK" HOLMES...
♪ SEE, THEY WERE THE MASTERS OF THE BLUES ♪
ANY MORE THAN CHEFS LIKE JOHN CURRENCE OR JESSE HOUSTON
CAN IMITATE THE FLAVORS THAT COME FROM MAMA JO'S KITCHEN...
OR RED'S MAKESHIFT GRILL.
YEAH!
BUT THEIR COMBINING THEIR OWN EXPERIENCE
WITH A LOVE AND RESPECT FOR THE DELTA'S PAST
AND CREATING THE TASTE AND SOUND OF ITS FUTURE.
SO WHEN YOU FIND YOURSELF
TRAVELING THE DELTA BLUES TRAIL...
IF IT LOOKS GOOD, EAT IT.