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Hello, I'm Doug Kitt with ReCverin. We're the manufacturers of the world's finest vitamin
C serums, namely ReCverin C and ReCverin 50/50. We're frequently asked about the differences
between the two products. Well, for skin care the main difference is the ability of the
different forms of Vitamin C in each of these products to penetrate through the dead outer
layer of skin. So today we're going to talk about Topical Vitamin C, Exfoliation, and
how the two are related in skin care.
Probably everyone has seen some version of this drawing, and learned that there are several
layers to skin. The epidermis is composed of a very thin but impermeable dead outer
layer called stratum corneum; the inner layer of living cells are continuously proliferating,
accumulating keratin, flattening, and finally dying as they become part of the stratum corneum.
These living cells need the antioxidant protection of vitamin C.
And even deeper, below the epidermis is the dermis layer, full of connective tissue built
of collagen. The dermis also contains the living cells that manufacture and maintain
that collagen. Remember, it's these living cells deep in the dermis that make collagen
and need vitamin C to do it. Vitamin C can't provide antioxidant protection, or help produce
collagen, unless it gets into the living cells beneath the stratum corneum.
When it comes to absorbing topical vitamin C, your skin is a lot like this model. The
stratum corneum is thin, hard and impermeable like this piece of weighing paper. This is
just like ordinary paper, except it has been pressed under tons of pressure such that it
is very smooth, hard, and thin...you can almost see through it. The thickness of this weighing
paper is pretty close to actual stratum corneum. This thin layer covers all the living layers
of skin that are a lot more permeable and thicker, like this stack of paper towels.
In fact, 5 paper towels is pretty close to the average thickness of skin. What I've done
is wet down two stacks of 5 paper towels so they're moist, and then I'm going to place
this moist weighing paper on top of one of the stacks. This represents the stratum corneum.
Now, I have some black ink and some blue ink here, and I'm going to put a drop of each
onto the surface of our skin models. Let's just let it sit for a half-hour or so.
So it's been about a half-hour. The chemical form of vitamin C called ascorbic acid is
a lot like the black ink...it just doesn't penetrate through the stratum corneum very
well. Dehydroascorbic acid is more like this blue dye...it's chemically different and absorbs
through stratum corneum much better...about 12 times faster in fact. And that is the big
difference between ReCverin C and ReCverin 50/50. ReCverin C contains only ascorbic acid,
while ReCverin 50/50 contains both ascorbic and dehydroascorbic acid.
Now, you can see that if the stratum corneum isn't there, both forms of vitamin C are able
to penetrate down into the deeper layers where it is needed. So you can imagine that thinning
the stratum corneum is a great way to increase the absorption of vitamin C, particularly
ascorbic acid, because it penetrates deep into the skin at least 100 times faster if
the stratum corneum is removed. And that leads us into our discussion of exfoliation.
The word "exfoliation" refers to methods for removing some of that dead outer skin layer.
Now, the main goal of exfoliation is to remove the roughest, oldest, and driest outer portion
so that the newer, younger, and smoother portion is exposed. This gives the skin a better appearance.
Exfoliating also increases the production rate of skin because it increases the rate
at which skin is removed. But this third effect of making the skin's surface much more permeable
is very important for topically-applied Vitamin C products that contain only ascorbic acid.
But what does "exfoliation" really mean?
If you look at this photomicrograph of actual skin, you can see just how different the stratum
corneum really is from the underlying layers. Although it's very thin, it is extremely tough,
so removing it isn't as easy as it sounds. On its very surface, bits and pieces come
loose and flake off all the time. These flaky, half-broken off bits can be rubbed off using
a washcloth or by wet shaving, but that isn't really thinning the denser, impermeable portion.
However, a more aggressive bath scrub, a body brush or loofah, combined with vigorous scrubbing
can rub away some of the stratum corneum, and this is a minimal kind of exfoliation.
Skin cleansing products with abrasives in them can also be effective.
More significant removal of stratum corneum is accomplished with microdermabrasion techniques
and/or using chemicals such as alpha-hydroxy acids that help dissolve the surface of the
skin. So, for example, a person who regularly uses a 5% glycolic acid product removes a
significant amount and thins the stratum corneum layer.
Now exfoliation can be carried to the extreme with chemical skin peels using agents like
salicylic acid, but skin peels are usually done in the dermatologist office or a salon,
and are not the kind of daily regimen I'm talking about.
So here's the bottom line. If you are regularly and seriously exfoliating, then a good quality
l-ascorbic acid serum of 5% or greater can increase the skin levels of vitamin C. There
are lots of different brands, with 5%, 10%, 15% or even 20% concentrations, so why use
our brand of 10% l-ascorbic acid? ReCverin C comes in a two-ounce bottle, twice as much
as most competing brands. Compare the price ounce-for-ounce and, you'll find that ReCverin
C is extremely economical. Furthermore it's a very pure solution, containing nothing more
than ascorbic acid in a moisturizing glycerin base. It's anhydrous, which means it contains
no water, which makes it extremely stable. Stored at normal room temperature it will
show no sign of deterioration or yellowing for a long time. After one year, it will still
contain at least 95% of its original vitamin C. And why pay for water anyway?
But here's the thing. We have stratum corneum for a reason, that being to protect the underlying
living skin. It keeps water in the body, and it keeps harmful chemicals, bacteria and viruses
out. Not everyone wants to exfoliate every day. Furthermore, exfoliation makes the skin
more sensitive. Alpha-hydroxy acids are good exfoliators, but they're well known to increase
the sensitivity of skin to sunlight; many people don't like to use them for that reason.
If you don't exfoliate, if you have sensitive skin, but you still want to experience the
benefits of topical vitamin C, then ReCverin 50/50 is what you need. Because it penetrates
so well, dehydroascorbic acid provides far more vitamin C deep in the skin where it is
needed. ReCverin 50/50 is more effective than any other serum, even though it is a much
more gentle formulation that can be used even by people with sensitive skin.
Thanks for your time and attention!