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Hi this is a video by Pet Rock. I'm working on my wife's '98 Ford Mustang. It's a 3.8L
convertible as you can see. Today I'm going to be working on the hinge pins because as
you can see the alignment of the door is quite skewed. If you open the door it actually grinds
and touches right about, right about in here every time I open the door. So and the problem
is that the hinge pins and the bushings inside are worn out. So if you look closely, lets
see if I can get this in the shot, so its hard to do with one hand, sorry, if I lift
up on the door you can see that the hinge on the bottom is moving, this part of the
hinge is moving separate from this. This part it should not move at all. The problem is
that there is a bushing in between this piece and this piece that that pin rides in and
over time that bushing gets worn out. Its only made of brass (or copper I think). So
every once, you have to replace it over time, you have to replace it when it gets worn.
So in this, today we are going to be working on replacing this one the bottom one and the
top one. So this can be, its not a hard job, its more of a, its just more of a balancing
act. Because you have to remove each pin and then basically balance the door, make sure
it doesn't fall off or fall down while you remove the old bushings, remove the old pin,
remove the old bushings and install the new one in reverse. Other then that its pretty
much a straight forward job. So the problem with, the reason I'm making this video is
because that there really aren't that many videos on doing hinge pins on this model or
style mustang. Let along really any cars. There is only a couple videos I was able to
find on YouTube about this. They were very helpful but they don't necessarily pertain
to this specific car. The main problem with this car is that there is this big plate in
front of the hinge pin so you can't really just get in there with a Dremel and just cut
it, cut the hinge pin down in the middle and just pop it out. You have to grind the pin
at the top of bottom to get it out. So what makes it even more fun is that this bolt right
here for the door actually gets in the way for any kind of grinding you want to do. So
there are a couple tricks on how to get to this one includes just removing the bolt and
grinding off the top and reinstalling the bolt when your done so you don't put too much
stress on the other hinges. And that's the route I'm going to be going today. Basically
to start this job the first thing you do, well the first thing I did actually was remove,
I removed the window and the regulator. You don't have to do this I just did that because
the window regulator got basically all damaged from a, basically getting a, from the misalignment
it hitting the window sill, hitting the window up here basically it put too much stress on
it and it popped it and bent the old window regulator. So I remove it while I'm going
this just to make the door lighter. First thing I'm going to do is take some tape and
put it all up down between that seam because once I pop those hinges it is going to be
moving alot. So you don't want to mess up your paint as this door is moving around.
I'm not going to do this job step by step all on video like some guys do I just don't
have that kind of time nor am I that confident with my video skills. So I'm going to be cutting
in and out between sections basically showing you the main bullet points of how to do this
job. So the first step is just setting some tape in here trying to get it all, trying
to get the, protect the paint. So I have the tape all the way up and down the seam. See
how kind of how close the seam is on the bottom vs. how thick it is on the top just from the
alignment. See how bad the alignment is. Anyway, so I basically just put some tape on this
side, folded the crease, folded the excess over just to protect that seam and getting,
this side was much easier just open the door and you got all sorts of room. Just to basically
lay a piece of tape down here and just fold it over that's all I did. Anyway, so the next
step is to prep the actual area I'm going to be grinding. Which is, get some light on
this thing, right there. So what I want to do is I wanna put some kind of protection
on the top of the hinge where I'm going to be grinding so I don't screw up the paint,
chew up the paint too badly. And then I'm also going to be removing that one bolt right
there just to get a little bit easier access it is kind of a tight fit in here. The other
thing I'm going to do is get my fire extinguisher and make sure that's close by because there's
gonna be, might be some sparks and I don't want you know cause a fire. If I do I want
to put it out pretty damn quick. Anyway, so I'll be right back. So here you go I got the
area all prepped up. Its basically just, I took some painters tape, put that over top
the, on top of the hinge, around the top of the pin and then put some duct tape on top
of that. The duct tape is whats doing, whats really giving the protection. The reason I
did it this way, in this kind of layering is that when when I take it off, I take the
tape off it's not going to leave, the duct tape is not going to leave a gooey residue
the painters tape will just come off clean. Anyway, as you can see I've removed the bolt
that was right there and its a 13mm in case your wondering but it does open up the space
a whole bunch to get in there with the grinding wheel. This isn't very easy to do with one
hand but basically the whole point is to make enough room so I can get my Dremel, yeah its
old and yeah it is actually made by JC Penney but whatever, it works I don't care. Anyway,
there we go. So you get the grinding wheel and put it on top of the pin. Move it around
a bunch and basically grind that off. Its going to take a while. Make sure to check
your work. Make sure your not grinding too deep. You know, just take your time. The whole
point of this, the whole, the benefit of this, sorry not the benefit but the, its better
to take your time on this you don't want to rush it and possibly screw up and mess up
your hinge or mess up your paint or whatever. Anyway, so another thing to make sure you
have is a fire extinguisher. Make sure you have one around. There's going to be some
sparks when your doing this. If you set something on fire, like the carpet, you want to be able
to put it out really quickly. Its also just a good thing to have. Anyway, so I'm going
to start grinding on it. I started grinding on it a little bit on it already, but I'm
going to go the rest of the way and I'll be right back. Oh yeah, another thing I forgot
to say is you need have eye protection. Its very important because again, sparks are flying
your probably going to have your face pretty close to this thing while your doing it so
you want to have some kind of, some kind of eye protection. These are mine. Anyway, they're
dirty I need to clean them. Anyway, I'll be right back. So as you can see I'm most of
the way through. I've got it almost down to the, down to the flat. As you can see the
tape has come in handy because its not that easy to hold that thing on there, especially
since you gotta keep moving the Dremel around and, making, checking your work, making sure
your not going in the wrong spot. Make sure your trying to cut it down smooth-ish so you
can get to the middle. Anyway, this is really loud. So again, I can't stress enough wear
some ear protection as well as eye protection. Because there's little bits of sparks and
little bits of metal flying all over the place. Alright, so I got it all ground down smooth.
I got the pin basically flush with the hinge. I did take away a little bit of the paint
but I'm just going to hit that with some touch up when I'm done. As you can see the pin is
started on its way out, started on its way out by using a punch down through the top
using some tape on the door as well as on the frame, the A-pillar to protect the paint
and basically threading a punch in here and trying not to hit the paint. Its a little
bit hard, but take your time and you can do it. Once you've got it this far out its a
good idea to reinsert the old bolt so this doesn't spin, to reduce the chance of it spinning.
And then also you wanna start thinking about how to brace the door. Because once this pin
is out this door is going to wanna spin, going to want to drop this way so you want to have
something underneath the door like a floor jack, or even better a motorcycle jack to
prevent it from dropping. So the lower pin has the same problem as the top one. You have
to remove the bolt right next to it to get room, access in there so you can grind it
off. So I want to keep, so while I'm doing this I want to keep the lower, the upper pin
still partially in the hinge to hold, to help hold the door together so it doesn't it doesn't
rock back and forth or start to put too much stress on the hinge so once I do start, so
once I do get the top of that hinge ground off I can basically lift up on the door in
order to relieve the pressure on the lower hinge without having the whole thing fall
apart on me so that that I can hammer out the bottom pin. So next I'm going to mask
off the bottom hinge like I did for the top with some tape and remove that bolt and start
grinding. So right now I've got the paint, sorry the painters tape with the duct tape
over top, a couple layers of duct tape over top of it to mask off the area so that I can
go in there and grind it off. Now notice how the top hinge is still in place, is still
in place only partially. Its only in there about half way or not even a quarter actually.
And there is nothing at the moment supporting the door sorry for all the movement hope I
don't make you sick I have my motorcycle jack underneath at the moment in preparation to
have to support the door. But at the moment I don't want it supported because the top
hinge pin will literally just fall out. That's how it got as far as it got now it literally
just popped right out once I supported the door. I got it pretty much ground down smooth
with not a whole bunch of collateral damage on around the outside. So now I'm getting
ready to start whacking it with a hammer and a punch. So I've supported it with the jack,
with my motorcycle jack so that the weight of the door is actually on the jack and not
on the hinge. Or at least as much as I can get. I also took the precaution of removing
the door, door chime or door ajar or whatever button so that I don't by accident hit it
with a hammer as I'm, as I'm getting in there. because the chisels, the punch comes right
up through here and if I'm off by a little bit I didn't want to whack it and break it
so its a, lets see what size was it, it was a 15mm open wrench, open end wrench or box
if you've got it to get it out. Its not in there that tight its quite small so then once
you get it loose you can pull it out you pull the wire out a little bit and the plug, if
you look closely you can see the plug inside there are three little pins that you just
basically I just pulled on it and it came out. I'm not sure if that's normal or not
or if there's little clips that are on the end of this, you can kind of see them, the
clips on the end of those are supposed to be a little more taught then they were or
tight, hold on tighter then they were but I just pulled on it and it popped right out.
So yeah, I'm going to tuck this back inside a little bit so I don't smash up the connector
but not so far that I can't get to it so I'm just leaving it, leaving a little bit of this
rubber out so that I can still get access to it. So then I've basically taken a set
of needle nose, needle nose vise grips and just clamped them down on my, my punch so
I can get it in here, get it in here a little bit easier without getting my hand in the
way and have much more access. So as you can see how close the button was to the head of
the punch, so you don't want to whack that. Anyway I'm going to start beating on this
thing and get this thing out. Alright, so I'm still beating on this thing, I've been
working on it for a little while. It's a little bit stubborn It doesn't want to come out if
you can see the back of the, the back over here I had to put some tape to protect it
the chisels coming through and I think I've gouged the paint a little bit over there.
I've also had to, zoom out a little bit, put a little bit of paint, sorry tape on the side
here and here and on the catch plate I'm not really sure what this is called it's for the
button to stop the beeping. Anyway, cause what was happening was as my hammer was coming
down, let me show you, so as my hammer was coming down I would hit the pin square but
it would arc or it would bounce or something like that so I added a little bit of protection
for that. As you can see, I've got, I don't know if you can see it, but a little bit,
some kiss marks on the duct tape and this bulge right here is actually the rubber, this
bulge right here is the rubber piece so I'm kind of using it to also hold it from falling
back in the door. Anyway, so I'm still working on this thing so this is about as, this is
where I'm at right now. You can see I've beaten on it pretty well. And its being a little
stubborn. So as you can see I ground off a little bit more and I guess that did the trick
it's starting to come a little bit slowly but surely, so yeah the bottom one will be
out in a second. Ok so its out. Or its not out all the way, its popped. So part of the
reason it is so hard is you've got little serration, or striations whatever you want,
however you want to pronounce it, on the bottom here that are biting into the bottom of the
hinge. So it makes it a little bit harder for it to come out. And I dropped my light.
So what I've done now is I've got both of them about half way out if you notice and
I've also set my motorcycle jack, get out of my light, I've set up my motorcycle jack
to prop it up as well as set up a tie down strap hanging off the garage door frame to
basically prevent it from wobbling so the floor jack is holding the door up and the
strap is preventing it from rotating like that. So the next step is basically to pull
the pins the rest of the way. So I set the pliers like this and I hit the pliers right
here with a hammer and that should just pull them the rest of the way out. They are relatively
loose right now because the majority of the weight of the door is being held by my floor
jack so its not going to take very much effort to take them the rest of the way out. So I
have the door completely removed from the vehicle as you can see there is a little bit
of room as far as, a little bit of slack I should say as far as the wiring goes. You
don't have to necessarily disconnect all the wiring although you can't really get more
then this. There isn't, if I pull on it its not going to come. If you want to separate
the door any further then this, your going to have to disconnect the connector that is
inside here, inside the frame. As you can see I had to adjust my straps and my jack
a little bit to make this be able to stand up straight, stand up right. So I have the
jack close to the car and then I have my straps going straight up into the, hanging off my,
off my garage door frame. There are probably a thousand different ways to do this, but
this is how I did it. Basically take my straps and wrap them, and wrap them around, let me
back out a little further, and wrap them around the door one loop. One strap goes down, all
the way around, and then up and then back down again and around, and around and up and
back around in a loop. And connecting in the middle. The reason for this is to make it
so, to have some kind of lateral, that's not lateral, basically preventing it from, preventing
the door from going like this as I'm working on it. Its not completely rock solid as you
can see but its good enough to hold right now as I try to get the bushings out. So here
is what the pins looks like after they have been removed. The one on the right is the
bottom pin and the one on the left was the top pin. You can see a noticeable amount of
wear on the right pin where the bushings would be where it goes through the, through the,
through the door hinge. And that in conjunction with the wear that was on the bushings themselves
creates for a good, at least a significant amount of space to keep things wobbly. And
is why the door doesn't line up properly. So the next step I'm going to *** out, pry
out the old bushings and start pressing in the new ones. So I was able to, able to get
them out I just used a small chisel and basically hit into it and basically deformed them to
the point of destruction kind of thing. They are made out of brass (or copper) so its not
like they require a lot of force. Once they are deformed enough they will literally just
fall out. So yeah, I got all four of them done. So now the next step is I'm going to
clean up, clean up a little bit the area, get all the grime and dust out of there and
start putting things back together again. Start pressing in the new bushings. So I want
to make a quick note of earlier in my video I mentioned that you want to have a fire extinguisher
handy. If you look inside, look inside the fender there is a whole bunch of leaves and
whatever things, flammable stuff basically inside the fender that just accumulated over
the what 15 years this car has been in existence. So I don't think that they have ever been
cleaned out. Anyway, so those kinds of things are what would possibly catch fire from all
the little sparks that are flying from when you are grinding everything so you want to
be careful of that. And you know either clean them out first, it would be a good idea too
to do, but having a fire extinguisher handy is almost a necessity for this job. So better
to be safe then sorry. I also added a towel in between the door and the fender just for
a little bit of added cushioning because the tape, you know it will hold up a little bit
but it won't take a lot of abuse. So I discovered that, the kit that I had received from the
auto parts store, the one on the right, is actually, it will work however, it is not
the best, the most accurate fit. After doing some searching online I discovered that there
is another kit also made by Dorman, the one on the left that is alot closer to the original
spec. If you notice the pin in the middle is the original pin minus the head that I
cut off and you have the other pin that is about the same length. The difference between
the two is that one obviously is the length, the other is that this kit has a c-clip that
you put on the end of it to hold on, to hold it in place. Where this one uses a hole, has
a hole for a, if I can zoom in and get you a shot of that whole, yeah, you've got a hole
for a cotter pin. I'm not having a good time with words today. Anyway, so you have a slot
here for a c-clip. Its arguable on which one is better, as far as c-clip vs cotter pin,
but this one is the proper length so I'm going to go with this one. The part number, the
part number is, I don't know if you can read that but is Dorman 38438 the other one was,
the one that I was originally given was 38395. This one is, the one on the right is the one
that was listed for Mustangs and I think it is actually originally designed for Fox bodies
not for SN95's like this one is. This kit over here however is not listed by Dorman
for Mustangs it just says various Ford's '91 through 2005 which this one actually falls
under. So the bushing size is also identical. The bushing size here is .48 O.D. and the
bushing size over here is also .48 inches however the box actually lists it wrong. The
box actually says .49 when it is actually .48. There is a pretty big difference in that
because on of the things you have to do which I wasn't aware of before starting this job
is that you need to drill out the hinge a little bit in order to be able to fit the
bushings inside. So the size is actually critical because you have to find a drill bit that
will fit properly to make the bushings right. If you go with the number that is written
on the box for this kit your going to get too large of a drill and your going to drill
it out and basically ruin the hinge. You might as well buy a new hinge at that point. Anyway,
so the next step I'm going to have to do, which I wish I had known before is I'm going
to have to remove the part of the hinge, the hinge that is going to be, that's attached
to the door, here we go, I'll have to remove this part of the hinge. The hinge thats attached
to the door so I can get it on my bench and drill it out. If I had known that ahead of
time then this would have been a lot, not a lot easier but a reasonably more easier
job where I would have just removed the top one, drilled out the top, drilled out the
top of the pin, pushed it through, removed the part of the hinge that is attached to
the door, drilled it out, put all the bushings in, put the top back together again and then
done the bottom and not had to worry about this balancing act that I have right now with
the bottom, since I have both hinges undone. Since I'm already here, I already have it
balanced its already balanced pretty well. I have the hinge off and have it in my vise
so to show you want I'm talking about the inner diameter of the hole where the bushing
goes is about, lets see if you can see that is about .42, its flashing because the battery
is starting to go bad, go dead on my mic. So if you look at the diameter of the actually
bushing itself its about .48. So the next step is we have to drill out these two holes a larger size
in order to take that, in order to fit the bushing. So the two sizes of drill bits that
was able to find that are close are a 15/32" and a 16/64", 15/32" is about .46 outer diameter
if you do the math in a calculator its pretty easy. 15 divided by 32. And then the 16/64"
is about a .484 which is slightly larger then the actual bushing. So I'm going to start
with the 15/32" see how that goes and then I might have to drill it to the 16/64" maybe,
I don't know. I'll find out in a minute I'll be right back. So I've already got the bottom
one done. I didn't record that side so I'll get you, basically how you do the top. So
the top one, by the way the 15/16 bit, the 15/32 bit is the one you want by the way.
The bushing will fit. I tried on a piece of scrap metal the 16/64 drill bit that I had
and it was just too big. The bushing just literally fell through it didn't have any
bight to it at all. You want it to be pressed in ultimately. Anyway, so to press it in,
let me find the tool that I had made, or made i should say, put together. So this is a M8
1.25 thread bolt it fits the inner diameter of the bushing almost perfectly. So an M8
1.25 bolts and obviously matching nuts and so you basically, you put the one washer on
top, you have bolt, washer, bushing, washer, and then another, and then the nut and then
you just thread it down. You just thread this bolt down or nut down I should say. You can
go all the way though. The depth of, the depth of the bushing is larger then the actual thickness
of this metal. So you can only go down to a curtain point. Don't just keep cranking
on it because if you keep cranking on it you'll basically blow out the bushing and make it
useless. You'll have to start over again. So you basically go down until you find a
good amount of resistance and then you stop. You back it out a little bit and then you
hit down on it to press the, hit down on it with a hammer to press the bushing in the
rest of the way. So as you can see there is a little bit of a gap left on the bushing,
but the bushing is, you can't really see it with the light, but the bushing is all the
way down flush with the bottom of the bracket, sorry for the extra movement, anyway, so the
next step is basically you hit it with a hammer from the top to press it the rest of the way
down. Just take a hammer and hit it right here. I'm not a lefty and so this is not going
to work well. I need two hands to stabilize the bracket and use the hammer at the same
time. So sorry I can't get this on camera. So I've got them, I've got the bushings put
in, they are all nice and flush as you can see, if you also look closely you can see
how the bushing extends out past the bottom of the bracket so that's why you can't torque
it all the way down with that bolt, the bolt and nut combo while pressing it in. So you've
got to tap it the rest of the way in with a hammer or you know a dead blow hammer or
something like that. I also repainted them because they were all sorts of jacked up and
I also repainted, I also repainted the other end corresponding top part. I went to AutoZone
and picked up a can of this stuff. The Dupli-Color Perfect Match whatever, its made for Ford
and it was red and so I figured eh its a door hinge I'll try it and its actually working
out, its actually closer to what the real color was then I though it would be. If you
take a look it is kind of hard to tell other then the dirt on the old stuff. Like if you
look at that hinge only half of it is painted. If you look at it over hear this part right
here is not painted with this spray paint and you can't really tell the difference other
then you know dirt. So I'm actually kind of impressed. So the next step I have to do is
reinstall these, I have to reinstall these hinges and the hinges are used while adjusting
if you notice the holes are slightly elongated, get a better background shot, there you go.
The holes are slightly elongated so the design is as your adjusting you've got to move the
hinge in and out to adjust the door to make it line up properly. The hinges that are actually
attached to the frame of the car the adjust the up, down, sorry they adjust the up, down,
back and forward angle or vectors of the door where these hinges adjust the in and out the
you know the to make it stick out further from the vehicle or closer to the vehicle
so that's basically what these are, because these have been removed your going to have
to adjust these slightly to get them, to get everything lined up again. Now if your car
is as old as this one which it should be if your watching this video and have a Mustang
of this vintage you can kind of see where the old hinge used to be. If you put the hinge
back on in that general, in that general spot you should be pretty close to being aligned
you may need some fine adjustment back and forth to get the everything lined up again
flush but you should be pretty close if you can get the hinge back on where it used to
be. Assuming it hadn't moved over the years however number of years your car has been
around. One thing I'm going to note is I'm going to be inserting the door hinge pin from
the bottom up on both top and bottom. Now the reasoning behind this is, here is my train
of thought, others may have different reasoning but so the stock hinge pin if you notice on
the right side there is some little grooves in it that make the, that will bite into the
hinge. Now these hinges, these pins used to be in like this so that the serrations were
on the bottom. Now I measured the diameter, the inner diameter of this whole and this
one and the bottom is actually bigger to make room for these serrations. Now the hinge pins
have the same serrations only on one side just like the stock pins. So that means these
serrations need to be, need to line up in here. You can sort of see the serrations that
I'm talking about, the grooves in the bottom pin, focus, come on focus, there you go. You
can kind of see them in the bottom pin a little bit. That's what I'm talking about and I've
painted over the top one so you can't really see anything on that one. But if you look,
if you slide this up fairly simply through the bottom and its snug up against the serrations.
So all I need to do is tap this up and through and I'll be in. Now if I did it from the reverse,
which is where you kind of think that you'd want to do it where you want to have the top,
the head of the pin on the top not the c-clip which is the way I was thinking it would have
to be but its not. You actually want it, you want it the other way around. Let me try to
get this through and I'll show you want I'm talking about. So if you look the bottom because,
because the bottom is actually wider this is now loose and you can kind of hear it clicking.
You don't want that. So that just shows how this is smaller then this. So you need to
have this up. If you look there is no, there is no clicking when I have it that direction.
So that will explain why I have it this way. Ok, here is a little tip so I got the top
hinge in and I went with putting the hinges in, together first and then later I'll attach
the door because getting in here to hammer these pins in was just a bit of a pain in
the but so I just decided to separate the door a little bit and give me a lot more clearance
and then later on I can mate these two surfaces up. So I've got that one in with the c-clip
and you can see that it is all the way on, that last bit where you have to get the grooves
in, the grooves like these you've got to apply a decent amount of force so you want to have
as much room as you can to get in there. So having the door attached to the hinges is
just going to be, just going to be a pain in the butt. So I don't have the bottom one
in yet. I was saving that to get that on video. As you can see still a bit loose. Let me back
out. Its still pretty loose that's because I don't have the pin in all the way. So once
you've got it started you should be able to push it or just tap it with a small hammer.
You want a small hammer in this spot because it is quite cramped in there so you just try
to whack it and get as much in there as you can. Trying not to hit, check on it, got a
little bit left, damn I really suck with this hammer, with this hammer today, you need to
get it as close, all the way up there as possible otherwise you won't be able to get enough
groove, enough of the groove at the top to get the c-clip in so you have to hammer this
in as far as it will go, and lets see, a little bit more. Wow I have the hand eye coordination
of a toddler today. So there you go. Its all the way up now just get the c-clip. So get
the c-clip in and all you do is just push it, done. Its in. There we go. If you can
rotate it, if you can rotate it like this then you know you've got it in all the way.
You want to make sure that you've got in in all the way because you don't want this thing
popping off. Now chances of the pin falling out if the c-clip pops out is kind of low
because of those serrations at the bottom that you had to press, basically hammer in
that is biting into the metal hinge pretty good so it will stay in there for a good while
if that c-clip pops out. So now, excuse me, now the next part you have to do is to line
these back up. Now remember as I said you try to mount these, get these latches as close
to where the previous location was as possible. And that way you don't have to do as much
adjustment as you might think. Sorry as much adjustment if you hadn't. So yeah, now I'll
be right back. So I've got the bolts started. You don't want to just tighten these down
with a wrench immediately you want to get them all started first by hand to make sure
you don't cross thread them. Because if you cross thread these things you are just in
a whole world of hurt right there you either have to figure out how to weld in a new bolt
or use a heli-coil, drill it out and use a heli-coil which means you have to remove the
entire door yeah not fun. So you want to start doing these by hand get them in there loosely
all four of them make sure they are all in, started pretty good and then once you do that
you can start tightening them down a ratcheting, a ratcheting, a ratchet would be handy here
or a ratcheting box end like one of these, one of these dandies is very helpful here.
Anyway so I'll be right back once I've got this tightened down a little bit. So I think
I've got it as close as I'm going to get it. The door opens smoothly, if can jump over
my stuff, the door opens smoothly it doesn't bind, doesn't move up and down thankfully
anymore like it used to if you notice if I pick it up and by picking it up it actually
moves the car instead of the door. That's what you want. So the other thing is, the
only thing I'm not going to do is this bottom one, this bottom hinge. I can't get it to
go any further in like it needs to. It needs to go in about I don't know whats that a millimeter
or so and I'm just going to leave it as is. The door opens and closes nicely it doesn't
bind it doesn't rub here even though it comes quite close it doesn't actually rub here which
it used to do so I'm quite happy with it. So one thing that has happened which is probably
going to happen to some of you out there is that this should just click in when I close
the door but it doesn't. So if you notice the door latch is hitting the, hitting that
looks like a brass piece and the door is actually moving, being forced down slightly because
of it. You can feel it in the door itself if you notice. You can kind of hear it too.
Yeah, so I need to adjust that. Some of you are probably going to have a similar problem
where you need to adjust that too. Ok, so the striker plate as its called is adjusted
via a 40, a T-40 Torx bit. You loosen these two bolts and then this can, wow I'm really
zoomed in, You loosen these two bolts and then it can move up, down, forward and back
slightly. And so basically the key, what the manual says to so is basically loosen it like
this and then close the door on it so that it will align and then you hold it there when
you open the door again and then just tighten it down. Its as simple as that.