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Welcome to Professor Pincushion, in this tutorial we are going to be doing Butterick 5879. So
you are going to want to make sure that you pick up this envelope so we can work on it
together. We are going to be tackling dress C from this envelope. Make sure you pickup
the right size and the size as listed above the barcode right here. So now let's take
a look at an example of the dress we will be making. This is a line dress that uses
a soft lightweight fabric for the outer shell, you can see in this case I am using a chiffon,
the neckline and hemline are outlined with a flounce, it also has barrel cuff sleeves
and a gathered waistline which would look perfect with a purchased belt around the
waist. Now let's take a look at our measurement chart.
The most important thing when making your own clothes is making sure that you are doing
the right size. You always want to consult the body measurement chart, and in this particular
case it's located on the envelope flap which is right at the top. So you are going to see
the sizes listed here on the top row and then underneath are the body measurement. So you
are going to want to measure your bust, waist and hip and these measurements are in inches
here. And then you are going to take your measurements and try to line them up in a
column, the column that best fits you that is going to be your size.
If you look at the back of the pattern envelope, you are going to see what type of fabrics
they recommend and also what other notions we need besides fabric. You see here at the
top they have fabrics and it says is designed for soft lightweight woven fabric such as
organza, chiffon etc. Now this is for the outer shell of the dress so the main fabric,
there is also a lining in addition to this you will also need lining fabric. We have
notions and is broken up depending on the view that you are doing. So we are doing dress
C so I can go ahead and ignore that which is under A and B and just focus on C. So in
addition to fabric I am going to need one 22-inch zipper and hooks and eyes. Once you
know your size and what type of fabric you are going to use you can then figure out how
much fabric you are going to need. So you are going to look at this top box which is
broken up again by view. Since we are doing dress C we can just focus on this part of
it and ignore this up here for A and B.
Now you want to look at the bolt of your fabric or the fabric information tag because that
is going to tell you the width of the fabric that you were purchasing. Commonly it's either
45 or 60 inches in width. Once you know that then you can split it up even more so if for
example I am doing size 12 and again the sizes are listed up here at the top, everything
below this 12 is going to relate to that size. So if I am doing size 12, this is all going
to relate to me, but I am only doing dress C and let's say my fabric is 60 inches in
width so I go across the 60 inch row and I go down the column 12 and that tells me for
60 inches I am going to need 3.5 yards of fabric. So that tells me how much I am going
to be purchasing of my main fabric. Then for lining, again we have a lining in this dress,
they only have a 45 inches so if I do the same thing going across this row, going down
12, I am going to need 4 yards of lining, plus we are also going to need some Sew in
Interfacing so this is the non-fusible kind and the same thing, so we are going to need
3/8 of a yard of Sew in Interfacing. The great thing about this pattern is that also customize
the pattern pieces in order to fit your particular cup size. So we need to do a few additional
measurements in order to know which particular pattern pieces work and need to cut out. And
this is going to be found on the first page of the directions so you are going to see
something that looks like this.
All you need to do is (1) you are going to take a measurement of your bust which you
should already have, this is the fullest part of your bust line and you are going to make
sure that it's all going even across the front and even across the back as well. You
can go ahead and write that down. (2) is going to be the high bust, so this is the number
2 it's above the number 1 and it's going to be right where the top of your armpit is,
so where your arm meet your side, you are going to put that measurement down as well,
then you are going to write down what the differences between these two measurements.
Whatever that is, you are going to look here so whatever the difference is if it's 1-inch
then you are going to be the A, B, cup size and they also tell you what pattern pieces
those are. So it's really handy in order to figure it out.
Now we can get down to the business of figuring out what pattern pieces we need to cut out
for our dress. And you will see up here we have some pieces that are very similar, one,
two, three they all pretty much look the same. The differences you have your cuff size up
here. So if I am doing C-cup then I would just cut out 2 and I wouldn't have to worry
about cutting out 1 and 3. Now these numbers that you see in these diagrams, they match
up to the same numbers we have on the list below which tell us what the pattern piece
is and which view it is 4. So I am going to scroll down here. Now you will notice Bodice
Front A, B, and A, B-cup this A, B does not relate to the cup size, this is for what dress
view you are doing. So if you are doing dress A or dress B then you are going to cut out
one of these Bodice Fronts but then you just have to decide which cup size you are doing,
so if you are doing in a C-cup you would cut out number 2 but not 1 and 3, but I am doing
dress C so I am going to ignore all of these until I see one that says pattern B, C so
here we go, this is for dress C. I am going to put a checkmark next to each one I need
to cut out because then it makes it a lot easier from when I go to the actual tissue
paper finding the pattern pieces I need. So I don't have to remember I can just refer
to my checklist.
Some of them do not have letters behind them. These means its for all dresses, all views.
So it doesn't matter if you are doing A or B or C, everybody is going to need to cut
out the skirt front and the skirt back. So I am going to go ahead and put a checkmark
here. Here again we have the Bodice Front C, Bodice Front C, Bodice Front C. Once I
see this then I am going to have to decide which cup size I am doing and I am going to
put a checkmark next to it. Lastly we have the Bodice Back C, Neck Flounce C, Sleeve
C and Cuff C. Once you have all your checkmarks you can then pull out your tissue paper and search
for the pattern pieces that you need. They make it really easy for you because the number
that's in the pattern piece goes back to the same number on the list that we were just
looking at. Also underneath they have the name of the pattern and the view that it's
for. Now when you are cutting out pattern pieces sometimes you will see a series of
lines like this, each line is a different size and you can see the sizes because the
right below the line that they are pertaining too. So if I am going to cut out for example
a size 10, I am going to cut out on the line above the size 10, everything else is going
to get cut off and I am just going to follow on this line.
Now if we look at the bottom of the sleeve pattern, underneath here we just have a solid
line, these means it's for all sizes so everybody is going to cut out on that particular line.
Now we also have notches and you can see a notch right here, this is a single notch.
This is how we fit certain pieces together and making sure that certain parts line up.
So you always want to mark your notches so you are either cutting inward or you are cutting
outward like I did. We are going to do the same thing when we are cutting this out on
our fabric or we are always going to mark the notch because its very important later
when we are putting a pieces together. This right here, this is a double notch, so these
are just two of the single notches put together and just easier for me so I can
see definitely see the difference between the single notch and a double notch that kind
of cut outward like I did but then I just flatten the top, and just makes it a lot easier.
After you cut out your pattern pieces you can then consult the pattern suggestion layout
and this is just telling you how they suggest you layout your pattern pieces to cut out
your fabric in order to make the most of the fabric that they asked you to get.
So we are going to look actually at page 2 which is the back of page 1 because that's
where they are going to have a dress C. So we only need to look at the dress C layout
and you will see here that layouts are shown for D-cup what these means is in this layout
they are showing you piece number 14 which is the bodice for the D-cup, obviously if
you don't cut out a D-cup you are not going to have piece number 14, but they tell you
here, if you are doing A, B you are going to substitute piece 12 for piece 14. So you
don't have to worry about, oh no I didn't cut out a size 14 that's because you just
take your size 12 and you put out where they have the size 14, and the same thing for the
C-cup. So we have a couple of different layouts here it's actually split up by the width
of the fabric so I have 45, 45 and under here I have some 60 inches so depending on the
width of the fabric is the layout that you are going to look at, but since you see that
there is two of each one, you also need to look at the size. So this 45 is for sizes
6 through 14, this is for sizes 16 through 22. So if I am doing the size 18 and add 45
inch with fabric, then I am going to look at this layout here. My fabric is actually
60 inches and I am doing size 12 so I am going to look at this layout. There is a couple
of keys that we need to know so F means it's on the fold or there is a fold here in our
fabric, S is the salvage, so that's the end of the fabric. So what this is telling you
is you are going to take your fabric and the fabric is going to be folded in half and we
have a fold line here as some of the pieces are going to be placed on the fold.
Most importantly, piece number 10, so you will see 10 listed here several times that
just means that they want you to place it on the fold, you are going to pin along one
edge, cut along this curved edge so when you open it you end up with a full circle and
don't forget we have this little inside cut out area here, so it's a full circle with
another little circle cut out in the middle. You are going to take off your pattern from
this one that you cut out and then you are going to do it 3 more times so if you end
up with 4 of them. For pieces that are not cut out on the fold, since the fabric is folded
in half when you cut it out once you end up with two of them. You will notice here this
one is kind of hanging of the fold, this is because there is not enough fabric to quite
get it to fit the way it needs to, so you need to cut out all of your other pieces then
take what's left, open it up and then cut piece 18 and you need it twice. The reason
why some of these are dotted and some of these are white because the white means the pattern
is right side facing up, the dotted means they took the pattern and they flipped it.
So the print side of the pattern is right side facing down. This is kind of on it's
own because they have a different setup so after you cut out these pieces you take whatever
is left of the fabric. You fold it on the top, you fold it on the bottom that way you
can get number 8 on the fold line as well. So when you open it up its twice as big and
then you can fit another number 10.
If we just go down a little bit further we have the lining and we have our Sew in Interfacing,
so it's the same sort of setup they only show you for 45 of those so you just have
to pick which size it is and here you will notice it looks a little bit different, we
have the fold still but then salvage, salvage so what they do is they take the bottom part
of the fabric, they just fold it up enough so you are able to fit these pieces on the
fold line and then this is still one single layer up here, you just have to cut out your
pieces twice, but you will see one number 9 is white one is shaded, they want you to
have two pieces of number 9 that they need to be opposites you cut one right side facing
up and then you flip it so it's the opposite.
Here let's look at Sew in Interfacing, luckily we only need to cut out 18 and then just fold
it in half so you have two 18s. The last bit of prep work we need to do before we start
sewing is transferring our marks from our pattern pieces to our fabric, so these are
going to look like circles and dots and what I like to do is I always like to transfer
the marks to the wrong side of the fabric, I am going to stick a pin through my pattern
and through my fabric, here I have the wrong side of my fabric actually facing up. And
wherever my pin goes in that's where I am going to mark with either chalk or my fabric
pin and you can see I already did line that's up here. Now sometimes I remove my fabric
out of the way, you will have dots that don't have a size next to them like this you only
have to do your size so I would do size 12. This circle does not have a size so that means
it's for everybody. Also you may have triangles you may have stitching lines that maybe squares
there is a variety of different work, something like this, this is actually just to test the
measurement of something. So you don't have to mark this, but you would have to mark this.
Before we start going through the directions I always like to look at the sewing information
box as it's going to tell us what are Seam Allowance is, it's 5/8 of the inch so whenever
they say do a seam we are always going to assume that's the width we are going to do
it at. Also we have this key for reading the picture directions, if I just scoot this over
you can see some of the pictures here. So if it's shaded that means you are looking
at the right side of the piece or the garment. White is going to be the wrong side and then
sort of this polka dot that means you are looking at interfacing and it has these little
diagonal lines that means that you are going to be looking at the lining. Now we can start
going through the directions and normally when you are making something you start with
Step #1, but in this particular case you want to really pay attention because the Step #1
starts for views A and B, not for dress C which we are doing so you are going to have
to go through until you see the directions start for view C. You will notice down here,
you will see a C but this is actually for the cup size so this is still dress A and
B, but if you are doing the cup size C and D. So it can get very confusing, you definitely
want to pay attention, but what I am going to do is I am going to read the directions
and then I am going to demonstrate what you need to do for each direction.
In our particular case since we are doing dress C we are actually going to start with
Step #27. Step #27 for A, B cups just start in Bodice Front press down. Now this portion
is for if you are doing A, B cup size, if you are doing the size C, D cup size then
you are going to start with Step #28 but they are essentially the same and I am going to
show you on piece number 12 so the A, B cup but then I will explain the difference so
if you are doing a different size you can just follow along with this. The first thing
that you are going to do is so I am working with piece number 12 and you know there is
two pieces of 12 in your fabric. If you are doing the C, D cup then of course you are
going to be working with piece number 13. You will see here we have a dart, now it's
broken up according to size so you just have to find your size and then draw the dart for
that size. And you can see my dart here. So all you are going to do is I am just going
to rotate this so it's a little bit easier for me to do it. You are going to take this
portion of the dart or the fabric and you are going to fold it in half. So you are just
folding the dart in half because what you are trying to do is take this line and meet
it with this line here and you are doing this on the wrong side of the fabric.
So usually I like to start at the point of the dart, grab my straight pins here and you
are going to place a pin at the very end and I like placing my pins so that they are going
in perpendicular to where my folder is going to be. And then I just kind of work my way
outward just folding it. And then I am going to stick a pin in one side, it just go straight
through and then I flip it over and if my straight pin is coming out on the line on
the other side which mine is, then that means they match so then I could go ahead, stick in
my pin to hold it. And we also look at it a little bit closer when we get to the machine
because what we are going to be doing is stitching right on our dart line here so it will be
a little bit easier for you to see, and then I am going to do it again so I folded, take
my pins to get straight through, check the other side, to see if my pin is going through
my line. And if it is then I can go ahead, stick my pin in, this is going perpendicular.
So you see all we are doing is just pinching this one area where the dart lines are.
Here you can see a little bit better one side of my dart lines and now I am just going to
stitch right on that line, I am starting at the widest point of the dart and I am just
using a regular width stitch and don't forget to backstitch, just follow right along there.
And if they are using a delicate fabric like I am using chiffon, you may want to change
your needle to a sharp needle and use a brand new one, so we don't have to worry about
any snagging because this fabric tends to be slippery I tend to use a little bit more
pins than I normally do in other fabric, just to make sure everything stays in a place so
I am working to that point we are almost getting to the end here. Now instead of doing a backstitch
at the point of the dart I am just going to stitch right off the fabric because sometimes
if you do it backstitch you end up getting a little bubble right there at the end of
the dart, we don't want that so we are going to do and not by hand so I will show you what
I mean once I get to there which I am getting close.
So this pin marks the end of my dart, I am just going to remove it and as I get to the
end just going to sew right off the fabric like that and then when I pull it out I make
sure that I leave enough thread on here so that I will be able to make a loop, we
actually switch to a table, so I can show you how to tie it and then also what to do
with your dart after you finish sewing it. This is what my dart looks like right now
so you just pinched your fabric and then you stitched it. So what you are going to do is
this is the part where we stitched off and you can see I have my thread pretty long
and all I am going to do is you are going to loop the thread and then you are going
to take the ends you are going to put it through your loop and then you are just going to pull
the end. We are just trying to get the knot as close to the edge of the fabric as we can.
Once you have the knot you can go ahead, trim it off, if you are doing A, B cup you are
going to take your dart and you are going to press it so it's going down towards the
bottom of the bodice. If you are doing the C, D cup you are going to take your dart,
you are going to trim off this folded edge so you are still leaving 5/8 of an inch on
each side of the end of the dart here. So you are just trimming off the top. And that's
going to open up this dart so we no longer have it fold here and you are going to press
the dart open. So then that's going to take care of Step #28.
Step #29, stitch dart and Bodice Back press toward neck edge. So now we are going to be
taking care of the dart which is in our Bodice Back this is piece number 15 and we are going
to be doing the darts at the shoulder seam. Again add piece 15 you should have cut two
out of your fabric so we are going to be doing this twice so you can see the dart up here
you just need to do the one that's for your size so I would do size 12 and then draw the
lines upward and you could see I already have it done on my fabric, now when you are doing
your darts you always do it to the wrong side of your fabric. So all I am going to do just
like before you are going to take the dart area, you are going to pinch the fabric because
we are trying to meet this line with this line. And you are just going to pin it till
you get to the point of the dart then you are going to sell it starting at the widest
point stitching along the dart line on one side, stitching off the fabric when you get
to the point and then you are going to hand tie your knot and actually already have one
done. So this is the other side of my Bodice Back. Here is my dart right here so all of
you are going to do is you are going to take your dart and you are going to press it toward
the neckline area. This is the neckline, this area is the armhole and this is the shoulder
area. So you are just going to take it, press it to the neckline on the other one is going
to be pressed in this direction because it's always the opposite.
Step #30, stitch Bodice Front to Bodice Back at shoulders and sides so now we are going
to be pairing up one Bodice Front to one Bodice Back. All you need to do this is the Bodice
Front so I am laying it right side facing up, I am taking a Bodice Back and aligning it
on top of my Bodice Front the right sides are together so I did right side down for the
Bodice Back. And you want to make sure that they are matching so that means that the armhole
of the Bodice Back is in the same spot as the armhole for the Bodice Front. So if they
are both on the same side then that means they go together. What you are matching up
is the shoulder area so that's up here, I am going to go ahead and pin this two areas
making sure that the edges match and you also have a single notch that that matches and
then you are going to do the side which is this side underneath the armhole, let me just
move this down a little bit. So you are going to make sure the edges match here and then
also your double notch matches. So I am going to go ahead, pin these two areas and again
you are doing this twice because we have another side of front back of our Bodices and then
you are going to stitch a 5/8 seam allowance here and a 5/8 seam allowance up here, because
my fabric is on the more delicate side, I like to actually when I do a seam, used a
shoulder stitch width or length. So what that means is the length of my stitches are normally
2.5 and I just changed it to a 2, so my stitches are a little bit smaller when I am doing my
seams, don't forget to backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitch becasue you want
to make sure there are seams stay in place and they don't come out. And then after you
finish stitching all your seams you are going to go ahead and press those seams open.
Step #31, Stay stitch inner curved edge of neck flounce reinforced through small circle,
clip to circle. To him outer edge of flounce, stitch half inch from raw edge, turn in and
press edge alongside stitching as shown. Trim very close to stitching, turn again along
trimmed edges, stitch in two place. We are going to be working on the neck flounce pieces
so this is piece number 16, we should have cut two out of your fabric, I have one right
here all that I want you to do is I mean there is many parts to this one Step so we are
going to take one part at a time, the first thing you are going to do is stay stitch,
this inner curve here. So from this point to this point you are going to stitch a regular
width stitch and you are going to do it a half inch from the raw edge all the way around
the inner curve, don't forget to backstitch on both sides.
Sometimes when stitching with chiffon, it can be a little bit difficult especially if
you are just sewing a single layer fabric to fit evenly underneath your foot through
your machine. So what I like to do one trick is, we just cut strips of tissue paper, this
is just regular tissue paper that it is purchased at the store and I place it underneath my
fabric I am stitching so it's between the fabric and the machine base. And that will
help it fit through the machine a little bit easier and then once you finish stitching
you can go ahead and just rip the tissue paper off. On the inner curve you are going to have
a mark for your size which I already transfer to my fabric, right here. So at this point
they just wanted you to reinforce this area where your mark is. So you can start, I would
say about a quarter of an inch from one side of it stitching at the 5/8 line you are just
going to stitch right through your mark and stop maybe of quarter of an inch pass that,
you are not going very far, just this area basically you are just doing a little straight
stitch. And let me show you the one I already have done. So here is my mark I stitch, well
actually my stitching is right above my mark, what I am going to do now because we have
two rows of stitches we have a stay stitch here and this is our reinforcing stitch here.
All I am going to do is clip a notch so that's our little inverted triangle to my stitches
at my mark here. So you are going to be cutting through your stay stitches which is fine,
just don't cut through your reinforcing stitches at the mark, right where our mark is because
this is going to help later on. So you just have a little notch like this.
Next on both of our neck flounce pieces what we are going to do is finish this outer curve
raw edge area. So what's you are going to do to start off with half inch from the raw
edge you are going to do a regular stitch just like we did with the stay stitch. So
it's a half inch in, we backstitch on both sides and we stitch the whole outer curve
area because we did the inner curve with the stay stitch, now we are taking care of the
outer curve. So after you do your half inch, you are going to you could have the wrong
side facing up, you are going to fold over from the right side to the wrong side and
you are going to fold up so that your stitches end up right above your fold line, you can
just barely see my stitches right there and here is my fold line right here. So you are
just seeing this stitches peeking out. Then you are going to press it and in that way
and I have already actually started on this side. So you can see so I pressed up and my
stitches are on this side, then you are going to take your scissors and very carefully you
are actually going to cut most of this raw edge off, careful we are not cutting into
this just the raw edge you are going to cut so you are leaving about 1/8 of an inch you
want to cut pretty close to where your stitches are, we are leaving just a little bit on there.
So again on the whole outer edge go ahead and trim it after you press it. After you
finish trimming your hem, the next thing you are going to do is you are just going to turn
it over one more time.
So now you are going to have a fold on the top and the fold in the bottom and that raw
edge is now in close to make it a little bit easier when you are trying to focus in the
place I like to just, pin it in to place and I am going to do this all the way around
this the outer curve only. And I have already started over here you can see this is all
pins so now we are going to take it to our machine and we are going to stitch right along
the top fold line. I am going to go ahead and so that top fold line of my hem so that's
going to finish that raw edge. And you can see I am using my tissue paper again it definitely
helps it run a lot smoother as its going through my machine just makes it a whole lot easier.
So I am just going to continue doing this total whole thing is hemmed up and we have
two of this so you are going to have to do it for both.
Step #32, Finish back edge of flounce in same manner. So are you going to be doing on your
flounce pieces you will have one flat edge this is the center back area, so just like
you did on the part where you finished your hem you are going to stitch a half inch from
the raw edge then with the wrong side facing up you are going to fold over so that your
stitches are right next to that fold line. You are going to press it, you are going to
trim the raw edge, you are leaving just a little bit and then you are going to turn
it over again and stitch on the fold line at the top. And I have already done this one,
this is the one that's on the other side. So once you have those complete we could then
move on to the next step.
Step #33, Pin flounce to Bodice right sides up matching notches triangles and back edge
to center back, baste clipping as necessary. So now we are going to be attaching our finished
flounce pieces to the neckline of our Bodice, so remember we stitch the front bodice to
the back Bodice and we have two of those sets. Now this is one of them and I just turn it
sideways so this is the bottom of the front Bodice, this is the front center the neckline
and if I went this way this would be back neckline here. So it's just going to make
it a little bit easier. Now you will notice that we marks we have a large circle down
here, a small circle right here, you should have triangles right at the shoulder seam
and the same marks are going to be on your flounce. So I have this right side facing
up. The neck flounce is also going to be right side facing up because we want to make sure
that when we are looking at our dress we are looking at the right side of the flounce and
the right side of our bodice. At the very bottom I have a large circle, this is going
to match the circle and I am going to make sure that the raw edge meets the raw edge
of the bodice. So I am going to start pining this into place. We also have notches, I have
a single notch right here this is going to match the single notch right here. Now you
will notice as you are pinning that sometimes things wont perfectly line up so what they
are saying is sometimes you have to clip into the raw edge of the flounce to open it up
in order to make it fit a little bit better. So what this means if I am pinning right here
and I just need to move this over a little bit more, you are not going to cut into your
stay stitch but I can just do it single little cut like this in this area because thats the area
I need to open up, now when I pin this, I can just pull it out a little bit more. And
now my notch is lined up so you may have to do that throughout as you are pinning the
flounce.
Again, we have our single mark right here this is going to match the single mark right
here. Again you may have to cut into it to make sure that everything lines up, be sure
not to cut into the stay stitching though. And then you are going to come up along the neckline,
I have another single notch that I am matching I am just going to move this a little bit
more over here. I am coming to the shoulder seam where I have my triangle, I have a triangle
here as well. So I am going to make sure that those match and then whatever is left pass
the triangle if that goes with the back neckline. Now this edge is not going to come all the
way to the edge of your back. It should be short about 5/8 of an inch because we are going
to end up sewing our center back seam anyways and we don't want the rough what we get caught
into that. So I would measure 5/8 of an inch, pin your back there and then clip in little
notches if you need to just spread it out to make sure everything else matches. So you
are going to pin all this raw edge and you are going to do it for both sets so I have
this flounce and then I have my other flounce with which I am going to match with my other
set. And then you are going to baste these two pieces together. A basting stitch is
going to be the larger stitch on your machine where just tacking this two pieces together
so it doesn't matter where you do it, you could do it at the half inch or you can do
it at the 5/8 I am going to go ahead and do it at the half inch which you don't have
to worry about doing any back stitching, it's a really quick stitch to hold them together.
Step #34, Pin bodice sections together at center front, stitch from lower edge to small circle.
So now we are going to be taking our two front bodice pieces and we are going to be stitching
them together and we are going to be doing that at the center frontline so again this
is the bottom of my bodice, this is the center front line and this is the start of the neckline.
So what I am going to do is I have one side right side facing up, I am going to take my
other front bodice piece and it's going to go right side facing down so the two right
sides are together and all you are doing is just matching from the bottom to the area
where you have your small dot, I have one here, and then I have one here. So your fabric
should actually go straight come to point and then kind of go at an angle so that's
the point where you are going to want to match. So I am going to start pining this, this two
pieces together remember you are matching the raw edge and we are matching these single
notches here. Once you have it all pinned, you are going to stitch your 5/8 seam allowance
from the bottom, stitch up until you get to your small dot up here and then you can go
ahead and back stitch at that point and not go any further.
Step #35, Gather lower edge of Bodice ending gathers 1.5 inches from back edges. So
at the bottom of our Bodice you are going to do two rows of basting stitches you are
going to do one at the 5/8 inch mark and then you are going to do one at the 3/8 inch mark.
You are going to make sure though that you start and inch and a half in from the back
center back, same thing on this side. So I had measure an inch and a half then I
would go ahead do one set of basting stitches and remember you don't have to do any back
stitches and then you are going to stop 1.5 inches before you get to this edge. And then
I am going to go start again, but this time at the 3/8 line and do my second row of stitches.
Step #36, For A, B cup stitch dart in the Bodice Front lining, press down. So now we
are going to be replicating what we just did with your main fabric with our lining pieces
so we are going to grab our two lining pieces for our Bodice Front so that's going to be
12 if you are doing the A, B cup or 13 if you are doing the C, D cup you have your dart
which you should have transferred also to your lining pieces and you are going to create
the dart in the same manner so you have your two lines that you pinch together or bring
together you stitch along that line, for those doing the A, B cup you are going to take the
dart and you are going to press it down to the bottom of the Bodice. For those doing
the C, D cup you are going to follow steps 37 which means you cut off the top of the
fold so then you can go ahead and press the dart open.
Step #38, Stitch dart and Bodice Back Lining, press towards Neck Edge. You are going to
be taking piece 15 of your two lining pieces and we are going to now create the shoulder
dart. Same sort of thing as we did before you are going to pinch the dart area you are
going to stitch on your line, don't forget to hand tie the knot and we are always doing
our darts to the wrong side of your fabric and then you are always going to press them
towards the neckline.
Step #39, Stitch Bodice Front Lining to Bodice Back Lining, add shoulder, so now we are going
to match up one of our front lining pieces with one of our back lining pieces, place
them so the right size are together and you are making sure that the armhole is in the
same area. So you are going to sew your 5/8 seam allowance at the shoulder here making
sure that the notch matches up and the size match up, you are also going to go ahead and
sew at the side seam, making sure the bottom, the top, right here and the double notch matches
up and you are going to sew your 5/8 seam allowance.
Step #40, Stitch a lining sections together at center front from lower edge to small circle.
So this is just like what we did with our main fabric. You are looking at the center
front of your lining and this again the neckline and this is the bottom and I have it right
side facing up, I am going to grab my other set, the front Bodice on to the back Bodice.
And I am going to line them up right sides together, you are going to pin just this section
only and do it your 5/8 seam allowance from the bottom here and then stop when you get
to the dot.
Step #41, Gather lower edge of lining and then gathers 1.5 inches from back edges. You
are going to do your two rows of basting stitches or gathering stitches, at the bottom portion
of our Bodice for our lining. Again you are starting 1.5 inches from each side and you
are going to do one at the 5/8s and one at the 3/8s no back stitching.
Step #42, Pin lining to Bodice right size together matching seams and centers stitch
neck edge trim. We are now going to be attaching our main Bodice piece with our lining Bodice
piece. And they are going to be attached at the neckline here. So I have this right side
facing up, I am going to grab my lining now and it's going to be right side down because
I want the right sides to be together and again I am just matching up the neckline so
starting here at one of my back bodices making sure that raw edges match, making sure all
my notches match and the center is going to match as well. I am going to pin this because
we are going to do a 5/8s seam allowance. Now I just want to point out that because
these are being stitched together right sides together, we are eventually going to flip
it out so what these means is once I have finished my dress and because I am using a
very translucent organza type fabric here, once my dress is completed, the wrong side
of my lining is going to be coming through my fabric, this is just something to be aware
of. So what these means is you really want to make sure if you use a light color fabric
like mine that your lining looks the same on both sides, you really can't tell the
difference. Also there are going to be seams showing through. So what I am doing as I am
sewing this when I sew a seam now you can just sew your seam and press them open that's
fine that's up to you, but for me I don't want them to be distracting as it's coming
through this fabric. So I am trying to make them as small as possible. So after I sew
a seam I then go back with my machine and I do an overcast stitch right next to my seam
or seam line. Then I trim it right on top of that so my seam is a small as possible,
now I am sewing it shut which is fine and then I am pressing it to one side, mostly
to the back. So I am doing it for my lining but I am also doing it for my fabric as well,
just so everything is consistent. So that's entirely up to you if you want to do like
I am doing, but for right now all I am going to do is I am going to sew this neckline and
even if you don't do it finishing seam like me, you are still going to want to trim your
seam allowance after you finish.
Step #43, Turn lining to inside under stitch press, so I went ahead turn my lining to the
inside of my Bodice, I am still looking at the right side of my Bodice fabric and the
lining is now on the inside. And you will notice it doesn't stay in there very well,
like it we need to pop out which is why we are going to do an under stitch so to do an
under stitch you are going to, you are not putting the Bodice where it was before you
are just pulling out the Bodice to separate it from your main fabric. Your seam allowance
that you just created and trimmed this is still going to be pressed close so you are
not pressing this part open. And it's going to be a pressed so it's underneath the lining
section. So I can fill it with my thumb that the seam allowance under there, then we are
going to go to our machine and we will go to the machine and take a little bit of a
closer look. And you are going to stitch right next to the seam line on the lining side and
you are only going through your lining and the seam allowance. So the seam allowance
is going to be stitch to the under side of the lining and you are just getting as close
to the seam line as you can. And you are doing that for the whole neckline area.
Here you can see a little bit easier so I am just making sure that I am keeping my stitching
on the side of my lining, but you want to stay close to the seam line, you just don't
want to crossover into our main fabric and I have them pulled in two different directions
because I want to make sure I don't get any of the other part of my lining caught or my
fabric caught, is just this part of the lining plus the seam allowance underneath and I am
just doing a regular stitch and I am going to back stitch at the beginning and end of
my stitch.
Step #44, Baste lining to Bodice at Armhole, here is one of my armhole so all you are doing
is you are taking the raw edge of your lining, the raw edge of your fabric, you are matching
them up and you are matching all your notches and seams and stuff. Go ahead and pin them
and you are going to baste all the way around the whole armhole. We are not stitching the
front, the back obviously we want our armhole to stay open, you are just kind of tacking
together your main fabric with your lining.
Step #45, Gather upper edges sleeve between small circles, gather lower edges sleeve between
small circles. We are going to be working on our sleeves now, so this is pattern piece
number 17 and you should have cut two out of your fabric. Now you will notice the series
of marks, we have small dots up here at the top, you have a large circle right at the
cap of the sleeve at the very center of the cap. And then we have two small circles down
here at the bottom. So these are the marks that we are referring to and we are going
to be doing two sets of gathering stitches and remember these are the basting stitches
so that will largest stitching machine, no back stitching and basically what you are
going to be doing is you are going to be starting at one small circle here at the top and you
are going to be doing a basting stitch at the 5/8s stopping when you get to the other
small circle. Then you are going to go to the 3/8s starting again here and finishing
when you get to the smaller circle. So you are just going it from one circle to the other,
you can ignore it this one in the middle for right now. Then you are doing the exact same
thing for these two small dots down here. So just starting here, doing a basting stitch,
5/8 line and then starting again at the 3/8s line and doing another set of basting
stitches.
Step #46, Stitch sleeve seam. You are going to take each of your sleeves and you can see
my gathering stitches at the top and the bottom here, you are going to have your sleeves right
side facing up, this area and this area need to line up because this is going to be our
underarm seam so I am going to fold it in half like this, and now the right side is to gather
a line up the short end right here making sure the single notch matches and the edges.
And you are going to go ahead and do your 5/8s seam allowance.
Step #47, Baste interfacing to wrong side of cuff. So this is piece 18, this is the
cuffs so you need to cut two out of your fabric, two out of the Sew in Interfacing, all you
are going to do is very simple, you are going to take your Sew in Interfacing, you are going
to pair it with one of your fabric cuff pieces, make sure that lines up and you are doing
it the interfacing goes to the wrong side of the fabric. Then all you are going to do
is pin around the edges because you are going to baste around all four sides attaching the
interfacing to your fabric. And I usually do it at the half inch mark all the way around.
Step #48, Stitch ends up cuff together so you are going to take each one of your cuffs,
you are going to lie them so the right side is facing up, my interfacing is on the back
here. And you are going to take the short end and meet it with the short end, so the
right side of the cuff is now on the inside. You are going to pin this edge and do a 5/8
seam allowance.
Step #49, Turn in seam allowance of cuff edge without small circles, press turn and press
seam allowance to 3/8s of an inch, so you are going to take each of your cuff and you
will notice on one side they will have the single notch so we are actually going to be
working on the opposite sides so this side down here all you are going to be doing is
with the wrong side on the outside you are going to turn over this edge, 5/8ths of an inch
and then grab my sew engage so I can start measuring this. And go ahead and pin it and
you are going to press it so it's going to be press 5/8s of an inch all the way around.
After you press it you are then going to go back around and you are going to trim the
raw edge so just the raw edge only so you are only leaving 3/8ths of an inch left.
Step #50, Pin cuff to Sleeve matching symbols and seams adjust gathers baste stitch, trim,
press the seam toward cuff. Now here is our cuff, here is our sleeve, we are now going
to the attaching that too, so you are going to want to make sure that your sleeve is right
side out, your cuff is wrong side out because we are going to stick the bottom of the sleeve
into the cuff and that way we can assure that it's going to be right side together. The
seam in your sleeve should match the seam of your cuff and you are matching up the raw
edge with this raw edge here on the cuff, so not the side that you fold it up, but the
other side now that has the single notch. So I will bring it down here, right so this
is the part that has my seam and the sleeve and I am matching up with this seam of the
cuff. I am going to pin it.
Now you may notice that your sleeve is bigger than your cuff and it's meant to be that
way because we are going to be using remember down here we stitched our two rows of gathering
stitches, we are going to be pulling these to help ease the bottom of the sleeve to the cuff.
And it's still going to have some ruffles and some gathering going on which is fine
because that's going to allow this type of sleeve to kind of puff out a little bit. So
I am matching up now my single notch with my single notch. And then also you will have
the small marks or dots and you can match that up as well. So I am matching up these
major points and then I am going to worry about the gathering, right so after we pin
this, alright so I only have this much in my cuff, if I was to flip this, you will see
I have this much of my sleeve that I need to fit in this area. So this is where I am
going to pull the threads, let me actually move this up a little bit.
Right so I have my threads from my gatherings such as I am just going to pull them and let
me turn it this way and it's going to start gathering this area. And once it starts to
fit, fix this then you can start pining it, now normally what you want to do is you really
don't want to cause any wrinkles or gathering but because of this type of sleeves you are
definitely going to have wrinkling and you are going to have gathering which is fine,
I mean there is no way to get around it because there is so much here. What you want to make
sure though is that in the area that you are gathering it you just kind of distribute the
gathering evenly so it's not all just bunched up in one area it's just distributed over
a period of the fabric. So that way it looks a little bit more even so then I was going
to, I don't need to do the same thing on this side as well. So I am matching up my
small mark with the small mark on my sleeve and kind of the center point is going to be
where my single notch is, this point with the single notch this is not moving at all.
So now I have all of this fabric to fit into this area. So again I am going to be pulling
my gathering threads to gather the fabric and then I am just going to kind of distribute
the gathering so it fits evenly and it doesn't look like its all bunched up in on area. Once
you have this whole thing pinned you can go ahead, take it to your machine you are going
to baste and then you that way its going to hold it without pins and then after you baste
it you can go ahead stitch at your 5/8ths seam line and you are going to trim your seam allowance,
you are just leaving a little bit and you can just move your, if you move the cuff,
like this you are going to want to make sure that your seam allowance stays underneath
the cuff. So you don't have to press it open you just press all your seam allowance so
it's underneath the cuff.
Step #51, Turn cuff to inside along fold line press slip stitch pressed edge over seam.
So you are going to be taking your cuff now and you are going to take the folded edge
and you are going to fold it up so that it covers up your seam allowance and all that
raw edge right there so just going to come to the top of that seam allowance and we are
going to pin it into place and after it's all pinned you are going to press it so we
get a nice crisp edge here on the bottom of the cuff. We are going to get a little closer
because then I am going to show you how we are going to slip stitch this into place.
The slip stitch is done by hand and you should use a matching thread I am going to go ahead
and use a contrasting one so it will be a little bit easier for you to see, so what
we are going to be doing is you have your fold of the cuff and then you have your seam
allowance right here which is on the sleeve. So I am just going back and forth between
the two sides and we are going to start here at the cuff and I am going to come up right
so my needle comes up where the fold is, but I am starting on the inside of the fold because
I want my knot to get tucked in there and then to stay hidden, just took that in there
we go and then I am going to grab a little bit of the fabric. You can see I am just doing
it right where the top of my seam allowance is. And you are going to pull it, and then
I am going to go back to the fold of the cuff then to the seam allowance, then to the cuff
and then to the seam allowance. So again just going back and forth, and you are doing this
all the way around the whole thing and you are going to do it for both sleeves.
Step #52, Edge stitch upper and lower edge of cuff. So now we are just finishing the
look of our cuff all you are going to do is all the way around you are going to stitch
right along the top of the cuff right next to the seam line and you are going to do the
same thing on the bottom of the cuff, so you are going right next to that fold that and
you are just doing a regular stitch and you are going all the way around both cuffs. The
Edge Stitch is a finishing stitch so we just want our cuff to look finished and it doesn't
matter if you start at the top or the bottom of the cuff I am going to go ahead and start
at the top and you could see that I am going right up here, right next to the top of the
cuff, I am just going all the way around and then I will count my threads and I will start
on the bottom.
Step #53, with right size together pin sleeve into armhole placing large circle as shoulder
seam, adjust gathers baste stitch, stitch again one quarter inch of way and seam allowance,
trim close to stitching, press seam allowances flat, turn seam towards sleeve. All we are
doing now is attaching our sleeve to our Bodice. So I have my sleeve right side out and then
I am looking at the inside of my Bodice so I am looking at my lining. I am going to stick
the sleeve inside an armhole, cuff first, so I am left with the cap of my sleeve which
is lining up with my armhole here. And it should be right side together. Now to make
sure you have the right sleeve in the right armhole, you are going to look at the notches.
So on this side I have a double notch, on this side I have a single notch. So this sleeve
should match up. So here I have a single notch I am looking over here I have a double notch.
So it's perfect. If they weren't matching up, just means I need to put the sleeve in
the other armhole, it's only thing. So I could start pining this and making sure that
the underarm seam of the sleeve lines up with the side seam of the Bodice. At the very top
of the cap of the sleeve, lets pull this out here, you are going to have a large circle.
This is going to line up with the shoulder seam of the Bodice. You also have two small
marks on each sides so I have a small dot over here, I have a small dot on my Bodice,
so I am going to line that up and it's the same thing on this side as well, I have another
small dot that I need to line up.
Now you will notice just like when we did the cuff, you are going to have more fabric
in your sleeve than you are going to be able to fit into this one area. So just like before
you are going to pull your gathering stitches it's going to cinch this up, now you are
just going to have the situation where there is so much fabric that your cinching up here
that is not going to lie flat. They are going to be some ruffling and some wrinkles here
which is fine. You just want to make sure that you take the gathering and you distribute
it evenly against us, not all bunched up in one section and just pin it, best you can
and I am going to do the same thing on this side as well. So everything looks even after
it's pinned all the way around, you are going to baste it into place then you can stitch
at your 5/8 seam allowance, you are going to go up a quarter of an inch and stitch again.
So you are going to have two rows of stitches, one at the 5/8ths, one at the 3/8ths because this
is going to be in area that has a lot of wear and tear, we are just going to make sure that
the sleeve is not going to come out. After your do your second row stitches you can trim
your seam allowance so that it's close to the 3/8s and we are going to keep the seam
allowance closed, you are not going to press it open and then you are going to press the
whole seam allowance towards the sleeve.
Step #54, Stitched Dart and Skirt Front, press towards Center. We are moving on to the skirt
now so we are first going to work with piece number 8 this is a skirt front and it should
have been cut on the fold. So when we unfolded it, it was a piece that was twice as big and
you have just one, you will notice that there is a dart at the top so these mark should
have been transferred to our fabric and you are going to have it dart here and a dart
here. You create your dart in the same manner that we did the Bodice so it's a same sort
of thing where you just pinch the two sides together and you stitch until you get to the
point. Once you have created your darts you are going to press them towards the center
of the skirt front so they are facing each other.
Step #55, Stitch Dart and Skirt Back, press towards Center, Stitch Center Seam and Skirt
Back from lower edge to large circle. Now we are dealing with piece number 9, this is
a Skirt Back you should have cut two out of your main fabric and again it has the dart
at the top so in both of your Skirt Back pieces you are going to create the dart and then
you are going to press it towards the center back. And you know the center back because
one side is going to have the double notch, one side is not so the side that does not
have the double notch that is a center back and that's the direction you press your dart
in. Now we are going to be placing the two back pieces together so once its pressed going
to flip this over now so it's right side facing up. I am going to take my other back
piece so it's right side together and now my center back seam is on this side. So I
am going to pin this two pieces from the bottom along the side matching the raw edges and
you will have a large circle, this is what you are going to stop, so you can stop pining
here but you are going to stitch your 5/8 seam allowance from here down to the bottom.
Step #56, Stitch Skirt Front and Skirt Back at sides. So here is my back this is the seam
that I just created and it's open above that large circle, I have it right side facing
up I am now going to grab my front, lay it down so it's right side together and you
are going to be matching up the side seams so that's going to be the side over here
with the double notch and the same thing this side over here which is a little hard for
me to raise so I will fix that, after and you are going to be pinning this two sides
from top to bottom and stitch your 5/8ths seam allowance and on this side as well. To finish
up Step #56, we need to prepare skirt lining in same manner as skirts so now we are just
going to do the same exact thing with just in first skirt and our lining. So you are
going to take the darts in your front and you are going to press them towards the center.
Then you are going to do the same thing with your back lining pieces, create the darts
and press them towards the center back. Next take both your back pieces, put them right
side to the right side, you are going to line up the center back seam so that's the side
that does not have the double notch. So from the bottom up to the large circle you are
going to do a 5/8ths seam allowance. And this part above the circle is going to remain open.
Lastly, put your front lining and back lining together, right side together and you are
going to sew your side seams here and on the side as well.
Step #57 and 58 are for hemming dress A so we are going to skip on to Step number 59.
Reinforce lower edge of skirt through circles, clip two circles, you will notice on the bottom
of your skirt patterns you will have stitching lines and you only need to transfer the one
that's for your size to your fabric of your skirt. You can see mine here is there is just
a couple of examples there is 4 in total, now all you need to do I am going to move
this one out of the way, is you are just going to stitch right on that line and you are just
doing a regular stitch, don't forget to back stitch because we are going to reinforce this
area you are not stitching anything together is just a single layer. So I am going to do
for this one I am going to do for this one and I am going to do it for my other two.
Now after you finished stitching it you are just going to clip the notch to the center
of that and you are not clipping your stitches, you are just clipping to them.
Step #60, Stitch Flounce Sections together, so now we are going to be working with piece
number 10 and this is the one we are on the straight edge you should have placed it on
the fold so when you cut it out you end up with a full circle with the hole in the middle.
Now we need to open up the circle, we could be able to stitch all these flounce sections
together so to do that we are going to cut with our scissors from one side from one outer
side to the inner circle here, only one side. So I'm going to cut here but I'm going to
leave this side intact so we are going to be able to open up the circle here. So to
do that I'm just going to use my pattern as a guideline, I'm going to grab my ruler, because
I want to make sure I do it straight down the middle and I do it straight and then I'm
just going to draw a line and with this line I'm going to cut right along it and then I'm
going to do this for all 4 pieces.
Next I'm going to grab one of my sections and you can see a straight edge here and I'm
making sure that's right side facing up. I'm going to grab one of my other flounce
sections and I'm going to match up one of the straight edges with this one now. So you
can see they are lining up and I'm making sure it's right side together and I'm going
to stitch a 5/8th seam allowance. Then I'm going to grab the straight edge on the second
section and I'm going to match it up with a third flounce and then a fourth. And then
the last one the fourth one is going to end up meeting up with this side right here. So
you have actually sewed one big loop with all four of them stitched together.
Step #61 Stay stitch inner curved edge a flounce reinforce through small circles, clip to circles.
We are looking at the inner circle of the flounce. So what you are going to do is, you
are going to do a stay stitch which means you are going to stitch all the way around
and you are going to do that a half inch from the edge. Then you should have marks on your
flounce and it should be next to the fold line right where that inner circle is. And
you could see I have one right here. Now if you are unsure if you can't find your mark,
it's basically going to be opposite side of the small inner circle opposite of where
you slashed.
So at these areas you are just going to stitch through these marks at the 5/8th mark so you
could start about a quarter of an inch on each side and then you can stop a quarter
of an inch on the other side of it. So you are just going through it and then once you
finish stitching those you are going to cut to your dot. So there should be 4 of these
and you are making sure, you can go ahead and cut through your stay stitch but don't
cut through your reinforcing stitch at the 5/8th mark.
Step #62 to hem outer edge of flounce, stitch 1 quarter inch from raw edge turn in and press
edge along side stitching as shown, trim very close to stitching, turn again along trim
edge, stitch in place.
So now we are going to be hemming our flounce just like we do with the next flounce, it's
the same exact thing the only difference is from the raw edge you are stitching in a quarter
inch away from the seam. So just a little bit and you are going to do this all the way
around the whole outer bottom perimeter of the flounce. After you stitch it you are then
going to fold it up and this is the wrong side so I'm folding up to the wrong side so
that you are stitching ends up, let me show, do it over here it's a little bit easier
to see my stitching. Your stitching ends up right next to that fold line. So you can see
it on the inside of the flounce, you are going to press it and then you are going to trim
so you are leaving just a little bit of fabric of the raw edge above your stitching. So I'm
just trimming most of this off and just leaving a little bit.
Now what you are going to do is after you trim this, you are going to take what's left
and it's still folded up and you are just going to fold it over again. So now that's
stitching is underneath you know you have a fold on top and a fold on bottom. And then
you are just going to stitch right on that top fold line creating a very narrow hem.
Step #63 pin flounce to skirt right sides together and matching seams on flounce to
center front and center back and side seams, clipping flounce as necessary based stitch
press seam allowance towards skirt. Our flounce is going to be attached to the bottom of our
skirts so you are going to have your flounce and I have a wrong side out and this is that
inner circular area that we did our stay stitch on. So I'm going to grab my skirt and my skirt
is right side out and I'm going to stick my skirt into my flounce so that the bottom of
the skirt is up or near the top of the flounce. So this is the side that has that kind of
scallop design.
You will have 3 seams in your skirts, each seam should match up with a seam of your flounce.
So I'm going to line them up, now there are 4 seams in your flounce. So there will be
one seam left over that seam just goes in the center of the skirt front. So you just
need to find the center front and then you are going to pin a seam from the flounce in
that position. So first what I like to do is and again the right sides together is I
like to line up all the seams. So once all the seams match and one seam of the flounce
matches the center front area of the skirt front, I'm going to pin those areas. Then
we have the area that we clipped you kind of see a little blue mark here so this is
where I did the reinforcing stitch and then I clipped to my reinforcing stitch these I'm
going to match up with my skirt where I did the same thing. So this is where we did that
reinforcing stitch and then we clipped right to the middle so then I would match those
together. And there are going to 4 of those. So 4 in the skirt, 4 on the flounce.
And you are going to line up the raw edges, okay. And then everything else in between
I'm just going to try to fit together. Now you will notice that there maybe more fabric
on your skirt then there is on the flounce so just like we did when we were trying to
match up our neck flounce to our neckline and we had the same issue you are just going
to do a little clip and that's going to start spreading things out so I would make it a
little bit easier. If we need to do more than one you can do more than one. So then I'm
just going to pin all the way around till the bottom of the skirt is pinned entirely
to the top of the flounce, then you are going to baste your seam. After you have baste it
you can go ahead and stitch it and then you are going to take your seam allowance and
you are going to take your seam allowance and you are going to press it up towards the
skirt, not towards the flounce so then you can go ahead and pull your skirt out so it's
pulled out away from the flounce and just take your seam allowance and press it up towards
the skirt.
Step #64 edge stitch skirt along seam. All you are going to do is you are going to outline
the bottom of the skirt so here's the skirt portion, this is my flounce. I'm just going
to put my hand over here so it's easier to see. So you pressed up your seam so it's
underneath the skirt portion and you can just see the edge of my seam right here all you
are going to do is stitch on the side of the skirt right next to the seam line and you
are attaching then the seam allowances underneath to the skirt fabric, you just got to be careful
that you are only doing the skirt, the portion of the skirt that you are working on and the
seam allowance that's underneath it, we are not accidentally sewing the skirt back to
the skirt front. So you are just going to outline with your stitches right along the
bottom portion of the skirt all the way around.
Step #65 reinforce lower edges skirt lining through circles, clip two circles. So we have
already done this with our main fabric, now we are just going to do it with our lining
on the bottom portion of the skirt you should have these stitching lines that you transferred
from your pattern, they are both on the front and the back of the skirt all you are just
going to do is just stitch along it using a regular stitch and then you are going to
clip right down the center and I have actually already done it with this one. So stitched
and then I just do a little slit right to the center being careful not to cut my stitches.
Step #66 stitch flounce lining sections in same manner as flounce make a 5/8th narrow
hem on outer edge of flounce lining stitch flounce lining to skirt lining in same manner
as skirt. So now you are going to take your lining pieces of the flounce and you should
have 4 just like we did with the skirt. On one side we are going to have your mark on
the other side you are going to cut from the inner circle to the outer circle and you are
going to do that for all 4 pieces. Then you are going to take each piece, each flounce
and you are going to line up with one straight edge so they are basically going in the same
direction right sides together you are going to stitch your 5/8 seam allowance then you
are going to take the other flounce and you are going to stitch to the other one till
all the 4 are stitched together so you have one singular open circle right in the middle.
After all the pieces are stitched together you will have this inner circle like this
and you are going to stay stitch a half inch from the edge all the way around then where
you have your marks you are going to do your reinforcing stitch 5/8th from the edge and
you are going to clip like I have one right here I will just bring this more into the
center. So I have a mark right here, I went ahead and I did a regular stitch, 5/8th of
an inch from the edge from one side to the other side going through my mark and then
I'm just going to take my scissors and just clip to my mark being careful and not to cut
the reinforcing stitches.
To create the hem on the flounce what you are going to do is press up 5/8th of an inch
on the raw side on the whole outer edge of our flounce. So I'm going to measure 5/8th
of an inch you can go ahead pin it, you are going to press it so you have a nice clean
edge all the way around. After you press it, remove your pins, take a raw edge, it's going
to fold to your crease that you created when you press it and then you are just going to
stitch right along the top fold.
To finish this up all we need to do is attach the bottom of our skirt to the top of our
flounce and this is in lining area, notice I'm using two different colors. So you got
to make sure that when you stick one inside the other the one on the inside is right side
out and the one on the outside is wrong side out so then when you have them like this they
are going to be right sides together. You are going to make sure that everything matches
up, all your seams and marks and you can go ahead and start pinning them, remember that
you may have to do clips in order to spread out the flounce section so that it fits all
throughout the bottom of the skirt.
Now when I'm sewing it and basing it, I always like to do it looking at the skirt portion
because it has sort of the scallop design, I want to make sure that I capture that once
the skirt is finished. So I pin it and then when I'm sewing it, I just look at the skirts,
I can follow along those same lines.
Step #67 reinforce back lining through large circles at upper edge clip to circles. So
if you look at the top portion of your lining for the skirt you are going to notice on the
back you have a large circle and then here's the other side, I just have it folded
so you can see both at the same time. All you are going to do is you do a reinforcing
stitch so this is stitching at the 5/8ths mark and you are just starting a little bit
before the mark and stopping a little bit afterwards. Then you are going to clip in
the area not cutting into your stitches.
Step #68 pin lining to skirt, wrong sides together and matching the center front sides
seams and back edges, stitch keeping lining free below clips. We are now going to match
up our main skirt piece and our lining skirt piece making sure that these raw edges are
together. So I stick one inside the other one and you are going to make sure that you
are doing wrong side to wrong side. So if I look on the inside, I'm looking at the right
side and on the outside I'm looking at the right side of the lining. You are going to
make sure that everything lines up that means seams, darts, notches, marks, ends everything.
When you are pinning you are going to start at one large dot on the back so the same place
where we did our reinforcing. So you are going to pin and you are going to start stitching
here, going in the direction of the front, come around and you are going to stop when
you get to the large circle on the other side. So everything from the large circle to this
open end is going to remain free, you are not going to stitch it. Just from one circle
to the other go ahead and do your regular seam allowance.
Step #69 make half inch French tact between lining and garment seams at lower edge as
shown. So now we are going to creating a French tack between lining and garment seams at lower
edge as shown. So now we are going to be creating a French tack in order to hold together our
main fabric with our lining at the top of the flounce area. So all I did is I have my
garment right side out, I pull back my main fabric so I'm looking at the seams, this is
the seam that's on the flounce and this is the seam between the flounce and the skirt
and you are looking at the same thing here in the lining. So this is the wrong side of
the lining, the wrong side of the skirt, here's the seam between the two and then you have
your seams up the flounce. So we are going to be attaching this area with this area.
And this is going to help keep the lining and the main fabric together so they are not
shifting as much and when you take off your dress the lining isn't going to come up through
the skirt and basically drive you nuts. So you are going to need to get some needle and
thread because we are going to hand sew this and I'm using a contrasting thread so it will
be a little bit easier to see but you should use a matching one. And I'm going to start
down here so this is where we have the seam and I'm coming up underneath the raw edge
not too close to the edge, because want it to be at a pretty stable point of the fabric
and then I'm just going to go through a couple of times at the point where my thread came
out just to kind of anchor into place, a couple of times.
Alright so now this is my starting point now I'm going to grab the same exact point on
the other side of my main fabric, making sure that it's in the same position as this one
and I'm going to come through again just the seam allowance part. We are not going through
a fully through our main fabric and the seam allowance, because then you are going to be
able to see on the right side and we don't want that. Alright so I'm just pulling it
until I have about half inch because they said they want us to create a half inch tact.
So then I'm going to come up right next to where I went down on the side. And then come
back to the side. So the two strands are going to be pretty close together and I have to
hold this it stays at the half inch mark. It's kind of similar to creating a thread
loop. Okay, and then come back up, the lining side of the seam allowance, because now we
are going to start reinforcing our thread loop. And the reason why they pick a half
inch because you don't want it too close like we don't want these directly attached
or it may cause problems later. So we give it a little, half inch is good.
Alright so now I'm down at this point, all I'm going to do is I'm going to come under
the loop, I'm going to take this tread, it's going to go over my needle on the other side.
And I'm just basically creating a knot at the end here. Okay and then I just do the
same thing, come through this goes over my needle, so I bring the needle through, create
another knot, that's going to go right on top of the knot I just created. So I did one
knot, I did one knot on top of it and I'm just going to create knot after knot after
knot until I get to this end. And then you can create your final knot and you can cut
it off and do another one. So you are going to do this for each seam that you have in
your flounce lining and in your main flounce. So there should be 4 total that you are doing
this, underneath this goes over your needle and then creating a knot, making sure that
you do one knot above the other. So you don't just work in the same spot you are actually
going forward.
Step #70 open out bodice lining, pin skirt to bodice right sides together, matching center
and fronts seams and back edges, adjust gathers, stitch keeping lining free below clips. Press
seam allowance toward bodice, now the full dress is coming together so we are going to
be attaching our bodice to our skirt, so here's my skirt I have it wrong side out so you can
see the lining, we still have this opening over here, because this opening is where the
zipper is going to go. Now I'm going to grab my bodice and my bodice is right side out.
This is the top of my bodice and this is the bottom of my bodice so it goes in top first
because we want to line up the bottom of the bodice with the top of the skirt. So you are
just going to put that in there and we are going to match everything up. So right now
it kind of looks like a mess, the main thing that you need to do is move your bodice lining
out of the way, we don't want to do that right now. We are just dealing with the bodice
fabric and not the lining, because we will deal with that at a later time.
Alright so this is my skirt, this is my bodice the part where you left it open when you were
sewing the skirt, remember we had this circle and we just started here, but anything between
the circle and the end is open so you can go ahead and take this part and you can move
it out of the way, because you are going to take your skirt fabric, your bodice fabric
and we are going to start pinning them together. And we want to make sure, everything lines
up, all the seams line up. Of course you wont have darts in your bodice but that's fine.
Notches you are going to want to line up as well.
Alright so now when we get to this point where the lining and the skirt is attached, at that
portion you can go ahead and start pinning all of it. So now I'm going to be pinning
the lining, skirt and bodice fabric together. And I'm going to go all the way around until
I get to the other side. And the other side is going to look like this, where from the
circle on it's just going to be the main fabrics and then pass the circle towards the
middle of it, it's going to be the lining attached to that as well. And you also notice
that we have our gathering stitches in our bodice so there maybe portions where it's
not fitting together perfectly, go ahead and pull those gathering stitches and just kind
of distribute it evenly so we can kind of cinch the bottom of the bodice so it fits
the top of our skirt. Once everything is fitting and pinned go ahead and stitch your regular
seam allowance and then we are pressing our seams toward our bodice.
Step #71 is broken out into sections, so we are just going to take one section at a time.
So the first one is open out bodice lining, baste opening edges together along seam line
above large circles as shown, keeping skirt lining free, press. All you are going to be
doing is you are taking now this opening edge that we have had on the back of the bodice
and the back of the skirt. Now we are going to start prepping up for a zipper. So this
is the center back this is the top and this is the bottom of the dress here, just so you
can figure out what part I'm looking at. I have the right sides together of my main fabric
only and pulling out the lining because I want to make sure they are not getting caught
in this also making sure that my neck flounce over here, stays out of the way as well. You
are going to pin the two raw edges together. So this part, this is the bodice section,
this is the skirt portion down here.
You are going to start basting from here at the 5/8ths line all the way down here until
you get to this large circle down here and then you are going to press your seams open.
B) Open zipper place face down on extended seam allowance placing zipper stop at large
circle and zipper teeth on seam line, base and center of the zipper keeping garment free.
So here, is the basing seam I just created and it's press open and I just took this
seam allowance and I extended it past the rest of the garment so there's nothing underneath
this part of the seam allowance. This part has everything else underneath it. So we are
just having this part be by itself because now we are going to start attaching our zipper
and this is where we are going to start.
So you have your 22 inch zipper, you are going to unzip it and the side where you can see
the zipper tag that's the right side of the zipper. And then down here, you will see a
zipper stop, this is the zipper tape, the stop is actually inside that. So you want
to make sure you don't confuse those. I'm going to turn it so the right side of the
zipper is facing down towards my open seam and the zipper stop is going to be at where
you have the end of your basting seam so where that large circle is that's where you
are going to put the stop. The zipper teeth we are going to get rid of this one now because
we are just working on this side now. So the zipper teeth is going to go right in the middle
of your seam line. So you are just going to be pinning it and making sure that everything
is lining up and you are just pinning it to the seam allowances hanging over here, nothing
else you are not pinning it to the garment, just this individual seam allowances hanging
off.
And I'm just going to keep going until I get to the very top, after you pin it, all you're
going to do is do a basting stitch right down the middle of the tape, so you can either
do that with your machine or you can do it by hand and I'm going to go ahead and do it
by hand because it just gives me a little bit more control so I can make sure that everything
stays in place.
C) Close zipper pull tab up, spread the garment flat, baste a scant 1 quarter inch from zipper
teeth and across lower edge. You are going to take your zipper, go ahead zip it up we
are now going to have it so it's going flat across the garment, like this and all you
are going to do now is you are going to definitely use your zipper foot for this part. So you
are going to start stitching down the zipper on the zipper tape going through now the seam
allowance and the back of your garment. So the bodice back or the skirt back so making
sure that you are not going all the way through and your are stitching the front or the rough
or anything else, it's just these two things. So one quarter inch away from the teeth you
are stitching down at the zipper you are going to go pass the zipper stop a quarter of an
inch as well then you are going to go across the end and then back up still staying a quarter
of an inch away from the teeth. And you are going to make sure that you are doing a basting
stitch and it's probably easier if you use a contrasting thread so it shows up.
I'm basing my zipper under place and I'm just getting, just below my stop so once I get
a quarter of an inch pass that I'm going to leave my needle in the fabric, lift my foot,
I'm going to pivot everything and it's hard, because there is a lot of fabric to this,
so you just got to do the best you can and I'm always making sure that I don't have
any extra fabric underneath my foot here, only the stuff that I need to sew. So after
I align everything up and go ahead and foot down stitch across, let me fix that, okay
there were go. And then once I get past to the other side, lift my foot again pivot my
fabric, make sure that nothing is under there that shouldn't be and then I could put my
foot and continue down the rest of the way.
D) On outside stitching along basting through all thickness as shown using a zipper foot,
remove basting. I have put my garment over so now we are looking at the right side of
the garment and you can see my basting stitches here in the light green. So all I'm doing
is using a regular stitch, stitching right on top of those basting stitches all the way
around my zipper and that's going to install my zipper in fully. Then I could remove all
my baste in stitches including the ones that right in the seam line and that's going to
open up my zipper. Again you have to be careful that you don't have anything underneath your
foot except for the part of the garment where we have been working on and the zipper tape.
Step #72 turn the skirt lining down, turning in opening edges to clear zipper teeth. So
remainder of zipper lining to upper edge of waist seam slip stitch to zipper tape. So
now we are working on a skirt lining and all you are going to do is on the edge each of
these you are going to turn under so it's going on the inside now. So that it comes
to, it doesn't come to overlap the zipper teeth in the middle, this probably maybe about
an 8th of an inch away, because we want to make sure that our fabric is not going to
get caught in the teeth. So you are going to do this all along the edge and you are
going to do it on the side as well. You can go ahead and pin it, just to hold it.
After you finish pining it you are going to make sure this top edge gets pinned to the
rest of our waist, our waist seam here. And you are going to stitch now, so once we stop
stitching here and this was all loose and now you can go ahead and stitch from here
to as close as you can get you might not be able to get all the way to the end because
the zipper gets in the way, but just as close as you can get. After you stitched this then
you are going to go ahead and slip stitch the lining to the zipper tape, so you are
just going through the zipper tape only not all the way through to the right side of the
fabric.
Step #73 turn bodice lining down, slip stitch back opening edges to zipper tape. Turn under
seam allowance on lower edge of bodice lining, adjust gathers, lap over skirt seam allowances.
Slip stitch, we are doing the exact same thing that we did for our skirt lining to our bodice
lining so all you are doing is you are turning it over or turning it under in order to pin
it in slip stitch. The bodice lining to the zipper tape up here. So I want to make sure
that my lining is now going to be on the inside of the garment so I'm just folding it over
about 5/8ths of an inch and then I'm turning it over so the line is completely on the inside
and then I'm pinning it about an 8th of an inch away from the teeth because again I want
to make sure that it's not going to overlap the zipper teeth and you can see I have already
pinned it on this side.
So both these sides you are going to slip stitch into place just like you did for the
bottom portion here. Now you will notice that our bodice lining will overlap our skirt lining
by a little bit so you are just when you do this part down here, you are going to turn
it up about 5/8th of an inch and you are going to do this all the way around the whole waist
line because we want to make sure when this is folded and it's stitched down it is going
to be covering all our stitches here at the waistline so you are not going to see it,
all you are going to see is a nice folded edge and this area is going to be slip stitched
as well so you are going to slip stitch up here and then also all along the waistline.
Now like when we are attaching our bodice to our skirt we had to adjust the gathers
at the bottom of the bodice, you will also have to do this with the lining as well which
is why we did these gathering stitches. So if you find the area is not fitting in you
are not able to match up the side seams or something go ahead and pull those gathering
stitches so you can just kind of cinch it in and make everything fit.
The last step is Step #74 so hook and eye to back opening edges above zipper as shown.
All we need to do is just put out hook and eye at the top and then our dress is done.
So usually I do the hook first and this is, this one over here, this is the hook, so it
has the flat side and then it hooks up and it gets sew to the lining. So the inside of
your garment, once I have that sew on and you will see we have the two hoops at the
bottom that's where you would put your stitches through. Then I get the eye portion, I hook
it through there, I position my eye where I would like it on the other side so it's
even, once it looks like it's going to work, this one is just all crocked, straighten that
out, okay. Once it looks like it's in a good spot then I can go ahead unhook it, hold it
with my finger and you are going to use a needle and thread with this.
So all you need to do they are very simple to sew is you are going to start on the outside
of one little loop here and you are going to come up on the inside. And then you are
on the outside and then you come up on the inside. So it's like doing a whip stitch
and I usually do about 5 or 6 times for each one and after I have done that one then I'm
going to move on to this one so both of them are stitched through.
To finish it, be sure to remove any basting stitches or fabric markers. Now you have
a beautiful dress as perfect to wear to any elegant summer event. This has been Butterick
5879 enjoy your new dress.
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