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OKAY, YOU'RE WONDERING WHY I, A MIDDLE-AGED JEWISH WOMAN,
WOULD LOVE TO TRAVEL WITH YOU.
AHOJ! HELLO!
SAY, "HI, ANTHONY."
HI, ANTHONY.
HEY, TONY.
CIAO, MR. BOURDAIN.
HELLO. I'M GARY GABALUS.
I'M SUZANNE MATHIS.
ALEX GARDOSH.
[ French accent ] MICHELLE LARNIER.
TONY, LET ME TAKE YOU TO NAPLES.
I HAVE ALWAYS WANTED TO GO TO HUNGARY.
Woman: I WANT TO GO TO FRANCE!
VENEZUELA!
DEEP IN PLUMP-PIEROGI COUNTRY!
WE'LL ROAST A LAMB.
DELICIOUS AREPAS.
A WONDERFUL HOME-COOKED PANINI.
PIMENTOS! MMM!
ALL THIS IS WITHIN FIVE MINUTES OF MY HOUSE.
ARE YOU UP FOR THE ADVENTURE?
ANTHONY, THIS IS THE TOKYO YOU'RE NOT SEEING!
I'M ANTHONY BOURDAIN.
♪ THAT'S RIGHT ♪
I WRITE.
I TRAVEL.
I EAT.
AND I'M HUNGRY FOR MORE.
♪ OOH ♪
♪ YOU GOT TO ♪
♪ GET LOST ♪
-- Captions by VITAC -- www.vitac.com
CAPTIONS PAID FOR BY THE TRAVEL CHANNEL, L.L.C.
Woman: [ Echoing ] THINK YOU HAVE A GREAT IDEA
FOR A "NO RESERVATIONS" SHOW?
WANNA GO ON THAT TRIP WITH TONY AND BE ON TV?
WHY THE TRAVEL CHANNEL SHOULD PICK YOU.
I WAS PRETTY SURE THAT THIS WAS NOT A GOOD IDEA.
[ GROANS ]
SOME LAME-BRAIN, NETWORK-GENERATED
PROMOTIONAL STUNT
WHERE THE PEOPLE WHO ACTUALLY WATCH THIS SHOW --
GOD ONLY KNOWS WHO THAT IS --
WERE INVITED TO SEND IN THEIR TAPES
AND AUDITION FOR THE JOB OF TAKING ME
TO A PLACE OF THEIR CHOOSING.
IT WAS "WIN A DATE WITH TAD HAMILTON!"
TRAVEL CHANNEL-STYLE,
AND I CURSE THE DAY I FELL ASLEEP AT THE SWITCH
AND LET THIS MALIGNANT IDEA METASTASIZE
INTO A FULL-BLOWN REALITY.
BED WETTER.
PSYCHO.
TO MY GROWING HORROR,
WE RECEIVED NEARLY 1,300 SUBMISSIONS.
I TOOK IT UPON MYSELF
AND A FEW OTHERWISE UNDEREMPLOYED STAFF MEMBERS
TO SIFT THROUGH THE SUBMISSIONS,
SEPARATING OUT THE OBVIOUS SERIAL KILLERS,
MASTURBATORS, AND VEGETARIANS.
THAT LOOKS NORMAL.
NORMAL.
OH!
PICK ME, TONY!
TO THE TOP! VIVA LA NORWAY!
THERE CAN BE ONLY ONE!
[ CHAIN SAW WHIRRING ]
WHAT MORE COULD YOU WANT?
WE'VE GOT BLUE CRAB.
THAT IS [BLEEP] UP.
I'M JAY NICHOLSON.
I SHOOT, I WRITE JINGLES,
AND I LOOK LIKE ANTHONY BOURDAIN.
I LOVE FOOD, AND I LOVE BEER.
[ BELCHES ]
IS SLOVAKIA THE LAND OF HOT UKRAINIAN HOOKERS
AND NAZI PAY-TO-PLAY SLAUGHTERHOUSES?
OKAY.
NEXT.
FROM THE OUTSIDE, IT LOOKS LIKE AN ORDINARY CLOSET.
BUT ON THE INSIDE, IT'S FULL OF PLASTIC BAGS.
Man: CROWDS HAVE BEEN KNOWN TO GATHER
TO SEE WHAT MAGIC DEVELOPS
WHEN MY SAUTé PAN ENCOUNTERS A LOWLY CAMPFIRE.
I'M MOSTLY GONNA SELL MYSELF
AND MY PERSONALITY AND MY ENERGY.
TONY, AS FAR AS I CAN REMEMBER,
YOU'VE NEVER DONE A SHOW ON THE DENVER AREA.
I KNOW SOME BACK EAST...
AND I NEVER WILL...
NEVER.
"SAUSAGE MASTER"? I LIKE SAUSAGE.
IN THE END, WE ACTUALLY FOUND
FOUR RELATIVELY NON-FRIGHTENING CONTESTANTS...
THIS IS REALLY GOOD.
...WHICH ONLY SUCKED WORSE, AS IT NOW APPEARED
I COULDN'T GET OUT OF THIS THING
ON PERSONAL-SECURITY GROUNDS.
FOUR WELL-THOUGHT-OUT, INTERESTING PRESENTATIONS
DESCRIBING FOUR VERY DIFFERENT LOCATIONS
BY FOUR SEEMINGLY SANE INDIVIDUALS.
HI, TONY. MY NAME IS AUGUSTO.
AND I THINK YOUR NEXT SHOW SHOULD BE
"NO RESERVATIONS: PHILIPPINES"!
FIRST, THERE WAS AUGUSTO --
AN ENTHUSIASTIC PROMOTER OF ALL THINGS FILIPINO.
JUST IMAGINE IT, TONY -- CRISPY SKIN.
YOU SO KNOW ME.
ERIC -- A MUAY THAI AND MIXED-MARTIAL-ARTS FIGHTER
AND INSTRUCTOR.
NOW, THE REASON I WANT TO GO TO THAILAND
IS BECAUSE OF THE FACT THAT I'M A MUAY THAI FIGHTER.
I LIKE THAILAND.
DANYA -- WHO MADE THE CASE THAT SAUDI ARABIA
WAS SOMEPLACE I'D WANT TO GO.
BEING A PORT CITY, OUR FOOD IS AS DIVERSE AS OUR PEOPLE.
OOH.
STUFF ON A STICK.
AND NELSON -- A PROFESSIONAL MUSICIAN,
SINGING THE PRAISES OF HIS GLORIOUS HOMETOWN, BUFFALO.
ONE QUESTION -- CAN YOU GET YOUR [BLEEP] HERE PRONTO?
I'M FREEZING.
I DON'T KNOW.
I LIKE MR. POTTY MOUTH FROM BUFFALO.
I'D SAY THAT'S A STRONG FAVORITE SO FAR.
THE FOUR FINALISTS WERE INVITED TO NEW YORK
FOR A THOROUGH INTERROGATION AND AN INTRUSIVE SEARCH
OF THEIR PERSONAL AND CRIMINAL HISTORIES.
THERE ARE THINGS I'D LIKE TO KNOW
BEFORE SETTING OFF FOR SOME FARAWAY LAND LIKE BUFFALO
WITH A TOTAL STRANGER.
IS THERE A FREEZER FULL OF RELATIVES IN THEIR CELLAR?
ARE THEY CURRENTLY EVADING JUSTICE
IN SOME OTHER JURISDICTION?
OR WORSE -- ARE THEY FANS
OF THE WORKS OF ANDREW LLOYD WEBBER?
I NEED TO KNOW THESE THINGS SOONER RATHER THAN LATER.
YES.
AND YOU MAKE YOUR LIVING AS A FIGHTER
AND TEACHING MARTIAL ARTS?
CURRENTLY, YES.
I MEAN, DID YOU GET BULLIED IN SCHOOL?
ARE YOU ANGRY ABOUT ANYTHING?
NO, NOT REALLY.
ANY TRAUMATIC EXPERIENCES?
I WAS EXPECTING A SHORT GUY, FRANKLY.
YOU WERE BORN AND RAISED IN BUFFALO?
YES.
I SEE A LOT OF ALCOHOL INVOLVED.
DO YOU THINK I'M AN ALCOHOLIC, BY THE WAY?
JUST WATCHING ME ON TV, WOULD YOUR GUESS BE THAT I'M --
TONY, I WOULD SAY YOU'RE KIND OF AN ALCOHOLIC.
YES. [ CHUCKLES ]
YOU SAY THAT WINNING WOULD BE YOUR CHANCE
TO SHOW THE WORLD
THAT NOT ALL ARABS RIDE CAMELS AND MAKE BOMBS.
BUT WHY SHOULD I GO TO SAUDI ARABIA?
DOESN'T LOOK LIKE A ROLLICKING GOOD TIME.
[ LAUGHS ]
WELL, THAT'S WHY. THAT'S EXACTLY WHY.
SO YOU'RE TELLING ME
THAT I WILL HAVE A GOOD TIME.
WE CAN SAY NOT ROLLICKING, BUT --
YEAH. YEAH, I THINK MAYBE THAT'S A LITTLE BIT EXTREME.
HOW MANY TIMES HAVE YOU BEEN TO THE PHILIPPINES?
TWO YEARS AGO WAS THE FIRST TIME.
HOW LONG WERE YOU THERE FOR?
I WAS ONLY THERE A WEEK.
DUDE!
WELL, I SEE THIS VERY DISTURBING NOTION HERE --
"TONY STEPS IN THE RING."
WELL, I CAN TELL YOU RIGHT NOW THAT THERE'S NO [BLEEP] WAY
I'M GETTING INTO THE RING AND GETTING MY *** KICKED.
ALCOHOL IS ILLEGAL.
WOW.
OKAY.
BEATLES OR STONES?
[ LAUGHS ] I KNOW I'M GONNA GET THIS QUESTION WRONG,
BECAUSE I'M SURE YOU PREFER THE STONES,
BUT BEING THE GEEKY MUSICIAN THAT I AM...
IT'S A ONE-WORD ANSWER, DUDE.
ALL RIGHT.
YEP.
NO, I HAVEN'T.
NO.
A TOUGH DECISION HAD TO BE MADE.
AND GOD KNOWS I DO WANT TO GO TO THE PHILIPPINES AT SOME POINT.
IS THERE A COUNTRY IN THE WORLD
ABOUT WHICH AMERICANS ARE MORE IGNORANT
OR LESS SYMPATHETIC THAN SAUDI ARABIA?
I LIKE THIS KID.
I LIKE HIM A LOT.
I LIKE THAILAND. I LIKE THAI FOOD.
WHAT APPEALS TO ME ABOUT HIM IS JUST THAT
HE'S OUT THERE TRYING TO MAKE A LIVING AS A MUSICIAN,
AND HE'S 40 YEARS OLD AND LIVING IN BUFFALO.
BUFFALO'S CLOSE, TOO, YOU KNOW?
AN EASY SHOW TO MAKE. IT WOULD BE A NICE THING TO DO.
AND I CAN'T DRINK... AT ALL.
LIKE, NO KIDDING.
AND HE NEVER SAW "APOCALYPSE NOW."
THAT'S REALLY A PROBLEM.
NEARLY 1,300 SUBMISSIONS,
4 SEEMINGLY WELL-ADJUSTED FINALISTS,
AND ONE TOUGH DECISION LATER,
I END UP IN, OF ALL PLACES,
SAUDI ARABIA.
I THINK I PICKED SAUDI
'CAUSE I FIGURED THAT OF ALL THE CHOICES,
SAUDI WOULD BE THE HARD THING,
THE MOST CHALLENGING THING.
THERE WERE A LOT OF PRECONCEPTIONS TO OVERCOME.
AFTER ALL, THIS IS WHERE 15 OF THE 19 HIJACKERS CAME FROM.
MAYBE IT'S MY SHEER CONTRARINESS,
BUT I ENDED UP GOING JUST ABOUT THE LAST PLACE I WANTED TO GO.
DANYA CHALLENGED ME
TO SEE HOW ORDINARY SAUDIS LIVE THEIR LIVES,
FEED THEMSELVES, AND ENTERTAIN GUESTS.
AND IT WOULD HAVE BEEN, I KNEW, UTTERLY HYPOCRITICAL OF ME
AND A BETRAYAL OF EVERYTHING I'VE EVER SAID
HAD I NOT AT LEAST GIVEN IT A SHOT.
[ GOATS BLEATING ]
WHAT HAPPENS IN A COUNTRY
WHEN YOU CAN'T DRINK FOR A WEEK?
SO, WHAT DO YOU SAY WE TORMENT SOME REPTILES?
KILL THEM AND EAT THEM. SOUND GOOD, GUYS?
[ MUNCHING ]
♪ TICK, TICK, TICK ♪
[ Rapping ] ♪ SING A SONG ♪
♪ WHAT THE DEALIO? ♪
♪ BROTHERS AND SISTERS, WE'RE CHILLING, YO ♪
DANYA ALHAMRANI'S HOMETOWN OF JEDDAH
IS A SPRAWLING, MODERN CITY,
THE UNDISPUTED COMMERCIAL CAPITAL OF SAUDI ARABIA.
IT LOOKS TODAY A BIT LIKE VEGAS --
A DESERT CITY THAT CAN'T QUITE GROW FAST ENOUGH.
BUT THERE ARE SOME STARK DIFFERENCES.
THERE IS NO DRINKING OF ALCOHOL PERMITTED.
GAMBLING -- FORGET ABOUT.
WOMEN ARE COVERED PRETTY MUCH HEAD TO TOE.
FIRST STOP -- DANYA'S PLACE.
AND I'M A LITTLE WORRIED THAT THIS IS GONNA BE
A LONG, WEIRD, AWKWARD SCENE
FILLED WITH UNCOMFORTABLE SILENCES.
GOOD TO SEE YOU.
AS-SALAAM ALAIKUM.
THIS IS ANAS, MY HUSBAND.
HI. HOW ARE YOU? NICE TO MEET YOU.
WELCOME TO OUR HOME.
THANK YOU.
PLEASE, MAKE YOURSELF COMFORTABLE.
OKAY.
WELL...
I MADE IT. I CAN'T BELIEVE IT.
[ LAUGHS ]
I GOT TO TELL YOU. I WAS THIS CLOSE TO BUFFALO.
[ LAUGHS ]
ONCE INSIDE, HOWEVER, I FEEL LIKE I COULD BE ANYWHERE --
THE MIDWEST, WHERE DANYA GREW UP, FOR INSTANCE.
I JUST WANT TO SAY, FIRST OF ALL, WELCOME TO MY HOME.
IT'S VERY SIMPLE.
AND I WANTED PEOPLE TO SEE THAT AS BASIC AS MY HOUSE IS,
WE HAVE COUCHES HERE.
NOT EVERY SINGLE PLACE THAT WE GO TO
ARE WE GONNA BE SEATED ON THE GROUND.
I WANTED TO SHOW YOU OUR BIG-SCREEN TV,
AND THE FACT THAT WE WATCH "BOSTON LEGAL" AND "SCRUBS"
AND WHATEVER OTHER TV SHOWS -- "HEROES."
SO, WHAT ARE WE DOING OVER HERE?
'CAUSE I STAYED BLISSFULLY IGNORANT
OF THE BRIEFING MATERIAL.
GREAT! AND YOU WILL REMAIN SO UNTIL IT HAPPENS.
THAT'LL MAKE IT MUCH MORE INTERESTING, I THINK,
AND MUCH MORE FUN.
THIS IS DANYA'S SHOW.
SHE WON THE DAMN CONTEST. LET HER DO THE WORK.
YOU SAID YOU COULD SHOW ME A GOOD TIME.
YOU SAID YOU COULD PRETTY MUCH PRODUCE
AN HOUR OF INFORMATIVE
AND REASONABLY ENTERTAINING TELEVISION
WITHOUT BRINGING SHAME ON MY HOUSE.
THEN LET'S DO IT.
SO, WHO IS DANYA?
BORN IN BISMARCK, NORTH DAKOTA,
AND RAISED BETWEEN THERE AND JEDDAH,
DANYA IS A FILMMAKER,
THE FIRST WOMAN IN SAUDI ARABIA TO BE GRANTED PERMISSION
TO RUN A PRODUCTION COMPANY WITHOUT A MALE PRESENT.
AND I AM WONDERING WHAT KIND OF TOUR GUIDE SHE'S GONNA MAKE.
WE START OFF IN THE BALAD, OR OLD TOWN,
THE HISTORIC CENTER OF JEDDAH.
FIRST STOP, BREAKFAST IN THE SOUK,
A LARGE MARKETPLACE EXTENDING OVER MANY BLOCKS
WITH HUNDREDS OF VENDORS SELLING EVERYTHING YOU NEED
FROM MEAT, FABRIC, TEA,
CLOTHING, FRESH JUICES,
AND MUSLIM VERSIONS OF THE BARBIE DOLL.
THE PLACE WE'RE GOING TO IS RIGHT DOWN HERE.
OH, THROUGH HERE?
AND THAT'S THE PLACE WITH THE NASTY BITS.
ALL RIGHT.
CLEARLY FAMILIAR WITH MY PREDILECTION
FOR THE SQUIGGLY PARTS OF RECENTLY KILLED THINGS,
DANYA TAKES ME
TO ABU ABDULLAH'S PLACE FOR BREAKFAST.
THIS IS IT?
THIS IS IT, MY FRIEND.
JUST THE KIND OF
DUBIOUS-LOOKING HOLE IN THE WALL I LOVE.
I LIKE -- YEAH.
OKAY.
YES.
YES.
[ MAN SPEAKING ARABIC ]
OKAY. GREAT.
THE KITCHEN GETS TO WORK ON A FESTIVE POTPOURRI
OF OFFAL COOKED WITH GHEE, TOMATOES,
RED ONIONS, PARSLEY, AND CHILI SAUCE.
THE SHEEP-HOOF DISH
IS CLEARLY FOR THE MORE ADVANCED STUDENTS --
GELATINOUS AND WIGGLY,
HOOVES LURKING JUST UNDER THE SURFACE
OF A BRIGHT-ORANGE BROTH.
YUMMO!
THOUGH THESE ARE, OF COURSE,
EVERYDAY BREAKFAST DISHES OF THE WORKING CLASS,
DANYA, IT TURNS OUT, HAS NEVER HAD THIS STUFF BEFORE,
AND NOT EXACTLY IN HER HAPPY ZONE.
SO, YOU SEEM, LIKE, FREAKED OUT ABOUT --
YOU WEREN'T LOOKING FORWARD TO THIS MEAL.
NO.
THIS IS NOT A TYPICAL MEAL FOR YOU AT ALL?
STUFF LIKE THIS SO EARLY IN THE MORNING
IS JUST KIND OF SCARY.
NO.
I'VE EATEN IT BEFORE, BUT I'M NOT A BIG LOVER.
THIS IS REALLY TRADITIONAL STUFF, THOUGH, RIGHT?
IT IS. IT IS VERY TRADITIONAL.
SHUKRAN.
SEE, THINGS THAT ARE FRIED UP LIKE THIS I DON'T MIND.
THAT'S FINE.
OH, I COULD SNACK ON THAT ALL DAY LONG.
BUT, SEE, THAT SCARES ME.
IT'S THE TEXTURE, RIGHT?
IT'S TOO "LUGGA, LUGGA." YEAH.
YOU'RE TURNING YOUR BACK ON YOUR CULTURAL HERITAGE.
I KNOW.
LET'S TRY. YOU FIRST. [ LAUGHS ]
REALLY?
YEAH, SEE, JUST GOING LIKE THAT,
OH, MY GOD, IT'S LIKE A HORROR MOVIE.
YEAH.
MM. IT'S TOO STRONG OF A FLAVOR FOR ME.
FUNNY THAT ON OUR FIRST STOP ON THE "BEST OF JEDDAH" TOUR,
WE'RE TRYING STUFF
THAT DANYA HERSELF FINDS, FRANKLY, TERRIFYING.
COME ON, DANYA, ZIMMERN WOULD BE ALL OVER THIS STUFF
LIKE CATHERINE ZETA-JONES ON A CURLY FRY.
YOU'D HEAR THE LIP-SMACKIN' FOUR BLOCKS AWAY.
I KNOW YOU HAVEN'T SEEN MUCH SO FAR,
BUT SO FAR WHAT ARE YOU THINKING ABOUT JEDDAH?
LISTEN, IF IT'S ALL LIKE THIS...
I'M A HAPPY MAN.
[ INDISTINCT CONVERSATIONS, HORN HONKS ]
THE MOST OBVIOUS DIFFERENCE IN WHAT IT'S LIKE
TO WALK AROUND THIS MARKET
AS OPPOSED TO SO MANY OTHERS I'VE BEEN TO
IS THE DARK, BLACK, FULLY CLOAKED FIGURES
MOVING ALWAYS THROUGH THE FRAME OF VISION.
SOME SHOW ONLY EYES.
OTHERS, THEIR ENTIRE FACES ARE COVERED.
AND THEN THERE'S THE MORE LAID-BACK VERSION LIKE DANYA'S
WHERE ONLY THE HAIR AND BODY ARE COVERED.
IN PUBLIC, ALL WOMEN WEAR AN ABIYA --
FLOOR-LENGTH, BLACK AND SHAPELESS,
COVERING THEM FROM HEAD TO TOE.
I WON'T PRESUME TO EXPLAIN THE THINKING BEHIND ALL THIS.
AS I UNDERSTAND IT, FROM WHAT WOMEN HERE TELL ME,
IT'S ABOUT PROTECTING FEMALE BEAUTY.
BEING A BLUE-STATE GUY FROM A LIBERAL-ARTS BACKGROUND,
THIS IS A HARD THING TO ACCEPT.
JUST THE SAME, I SHALL TRY.
THE MEN'S STANDARD GARB, ON THE OTHER HAND,
I'M TOTALLY OKAY WITH.
THESE THOBE THINGS,
I THINK THEY LOOK PRETTY COMFORTABLE AND COOL.
ARE YOU READY TO GET OUTFITTED?
YES.
I NEED GOOD DESERT WEAR.
LET'S GO GET YOU A THOBE.
NOW, NORMALLY, I RESIST THE INEVITABLE PRODUCER IDEA
TO GET INTO "NATIVE DRESS," BUT IT'S HOT HERE.
LIKE, OVER-100-DEGREES HOT, AND HOW SHALL I PUT THIS?
IT LOOKS LIKE THE THOBE ALLOWS
A KIND OF AIR CIRCULATION IN THE CELLAR
THAT MY BOYS WOULD REALLY APPRECIATE.
HERE WE ARE.
HERE'S OUR GUY?
HERE'S OUR GUY.
EXCELLENT.
YOUR AVERAGE SAUDI MAN ABOUT TOWN
WOULD HAVE ABOUT ONE OR EVEN TWO THOBES
FOR EVERY DAY OF THE WEEK.
I WANT TO LOOK SHARP.
THERE ARE CASUAL VERSIONS AND MORE FORMAL ONES.
THOUGH WESTERN-STYLE DRESS IS ACCEPTABLE FOR MEN,
THIS IS PRETTY MUCH THE NORM.
[ SPEAKING ARABIC ]
[ LAUGHS ]
HE'S JUST WONDERING HOW TO GET UP TO YOUR SHOULDERS.
Alhamrani: SEE, THE NICE THING ABOUT THE THOBE
IS THAT BECAUSE IT'S WHITE
AND BECAUSE IT'S REALLY A LIGHT FABRIC...
IT REFLECTS THE SUN.
SO EVEN THOUGH YOU'RE WEARING SOMETHING LONG,
IT'S ACTUALLY COOL.
Bourdain: BUT WHAT ABOUT YOU?
YOU'RE LIKE A MAGNET FOR THE RAYS OF THE SUN.
I KNOW.
THIS IS A BASIC INEQUITY.
[ Laughing ] YEAH, EXACTLY.
THIS IS PRETTY FUNDAMENTAL.
EXACTLY.
THE MEN GET THE NICE, WHITE, LIGHT THING.
WELL, THE REASON IS BECAUSE IT'S VERY SEE-THROUGH.
RIGHT.
OKAY. I GOT TO ACCOUNT FOR THAT.
ALL RIGHT. WELL, THANK HIM VERY MUCH.
I'M LOOKING FORWARD TO MY SWINGING, NEW OUTFIT.
SOUTH BEACH, LOOK OUT.
THE TAILOR SETS TO WORK ON MY THOBE.
AND IN 24 HOURS, I'LL BE READY FOR THE STREETS OF JEDDAH
AND P. DIDDY'S WHITE PARTY.
NEXT UP,
WHAT DO YOU DO TO BEAT THE HEAT IN SAUDI ARABIA?
[ MUNCHING ]
JEDDAH, SAUDI ARABIA.
THIS AIN'T BUFFALO.
IT'S A PLACE WHERE RELIGIOUS LAW
IS STRICTLY OBSERVED IN EVERYDAY LIFE
IN THE SHADOWS OF ULTRAMODERN SKYSCRAPERS.
LESS THAN 100 YEARS AGO,
THIS WAS A LAND OF WARRING TRIBES.
IT WASN'T UNTIL 1932
WHEN ABDUL AZIZ BIN SAUD DECLARED HIMSELF KING
AND ANNEXED THE PLACE IN HIS NAME
THAT THE COUNTRY OF SAUDI ARABIA WAS BORN.
OIL WAS DISCOVERED BY ACCIDENT.
THEY WERE LOOKING FOR WATER, AND EVERYTHING CHANGED.
[ SHIP HORN BLOWS ]
THE PROXIMITY TO THE RED SEA
IS WHAT'S MADE JEDDAH SO STRIKINGLY DIFFERENT
AND RELATIVELY HIPPER THAN THE INTERIOR OF SAUDI ARABIA.
IT'S ALSO WHAT'S GONNA PROVIDE ME
WITH A COOLING INTERLUDE ON A CORAL REEF.
THE GUY WITH THE HARPOON IS DANYA'S FRIEND ABDULLAH.
Abdullah: IT'S A GOOD TIME.
SO, WE'RE GONNA HAVE A BIG TUNA.
IT TAKES MY SPEAR GUN, IT WOULDN'T GO TOO FAR.
Bourdain: IF I SEE ANYTHING INTERESTING DOWN THERE,
I'LL JUST HOOK IT IN THE GILLS WITH MY FINGER.
QUICK. QUICK BODY.
ARE WE READY TO RUMBLE?
[ French accent ] I'M READY TO BRAVE THE DEEP.
STANDARDS OF DRESS EXTEND EVEN UNDERWATER.
DANYA HAS CREATIVELY RIGGED HERSELF
A CUSTOM-MADE AQUA ABIYA.
THIS IS NOT WHAT I PICTURED
WHEN I SIGNED ON FOR A TRIP TO A DESERT NATION.
HERE, FISHY, FISHY.
IT'S YOUR FRIEND SPONGEBOB...
HERE TO KILL YOU!
Alhamrani: WOW.
WOW.
NO DOUBT, THE MOST SUCCESSFUL FISHING SCENE
IN THE HISTORY OF "NO RESERVATIONS."
YELLOWFIN, JACKFISH, PARROT FISH, GROUPER, AND TUNA,
AND NOT A STUNT FISH AMONG THEM.
SO, A RESPECTABLE DAY ON THE WATER.
Abdullah: YEAH.
EXCELLENT. WELL DONE.
COOKED BY THE SUN TO MEDIUM RARE,
I'M HEADED BACK TO CIVILIZATION,
INTO THE HEART OF THE CITY -- OLD TOWN.
NASSIF HOUSE IS ONE OF THE OLDEST HOMES IN THE CITY,
KNOWN UNTIL THE 1920s AS THE HOUSE WITH THE TREE,
'CAUSE, LIKE, THERE'S A TREE OUT FRONT,
AND IT WAS THE ONLY TREE IN TOWN.
Alhamrani: I WOULD LIKE TO INTRODUCE YOU
TO ENGINEER SAMI NAWAR.
WELCOME.
MR. NAWAR IS A WALKING LIBRARY.
Bourdain: WOW. EXCELLENT.
THE HALLWAYS WERE BUILT WIDE ENOUGH
AND THE STEPS GRADUAL ENOUGH
SO THAT CAMELS COULD HAUL GOODS ALL THE WAY UP TO THE ROOF.
AND UP THERE, ONE OF THE MOST SPECTACULAR VIEWS IN JEDDAH.
Bourdain: THIS IS REALLY COOL.
THIS IS THE DIRECTION OF MECCA.
THE PILGRIMS COME BY SHIP,
AND THEN THEY REST, RELAX IN THE HOUSES,
AND THEN THEY TAKE A CAMEL CARAVAN,
AND THEN THEY GO TOWARDS MECCA.
WE ARE ACQUAINTED
WITH FOREIGNERS AND PEOPLE COMING IN AS A GATE.
AS A PORT CITY.
YES. LIKE NEW YORK... IN A WAY.
UH-HUH.
THIS STRUCTURE ON TOP -- FOR ENTERTAINING?
THIS IS THE BEST ROOM IN THE HOUSE.
THIS IS WHERE DANYA'S ARRANGED
FOR A GROUP OF FAMILY AND FRIENDS
TO JOIN US FOR DINNER.
DINNER ITSELF IS GETTING WHIPPED UP
ELSEWHERE IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD,
AS SOMETHING OTHER THAN YOUR USUAL STOVE IS REQUIRED.
A WHOLE LAMB,
ROASTED IN A TRADITIONAL COAL-FIRED OVEN
DUG INTO THE FLOOR.
AND PLENTY OF RICE --
SOMETHING YOU SEE HERE
MORE THAN ELSEWHERE IN THE ARAB WORLD.
OUR DELIVERY ARRIVES IN SHORT ORDER,
BUT DINNER WAITS FOR THE CALL TO PRAYER.
[ MAN SINGING IN ARABIC ]
FOR A WHILE, EVERYTHING STOPS.
VENDORS CLOSE SHOP, AND NO MATTER WHERE THEY ARE,
PEOPLE TAKE TIME OUT AND PRAY.
[ SINGING CONTINUES ]
FIVE TIMES A DAY, THE CALL FROM THE MOSQUE
IS A HAUNTING AND QUITE BEAUTIFUL REMINDER
THAT HERE, FAITH GOVERNS LIFE.
FOR A WESTERNER,
IT'S A REMINDER OF WHERE YOU ARE,
REMOVED FROM WHAT YOU SEE ON TV,
WHAT YOU MIGHT ALREADY THINK OR ASSUME.
IF YOU CAN PUT ALL THAT OUT OF YOUR HEAD, IN A VACUUM,
IT'S LOVELY AND IMPRESSIVE.
Man: ALL RIGHT. OKAY.
Bourdain: OH, LOOK AT THAT. NOW, THAT'S FANTASTIC.
NICELY DONE.
YEAH.
THE NEAR-UBIQUITOUS CONDIMENTS AND SIDES --
HOT SAUCE, SALAD, YOGURT, AND HONEY.
LET'S JUST START. EVERYONE, DIG IN.
IN TRADITIONAL STYLE, MEAT IS PULLED FROM THE BONE
AND EATEN WITH THE HAND
OR PINCHED BETWEEN FOLDED BREAD.
THE LAMB -- TENDER, JUICY, AND REALLY FLAVORFUL.
OH, THIS IS GOOD.
WISH WE COULD EAT LIKE THIS ALL THE TIME.
Man: WITH FOOD BEING TOSSED AT YOU?
[ LAUGHTER ]
I THINK PEOPLE SHOULD RELAX WHEN THEY EAT.
RIGHT.
Man: AS THE GUEST OF HONOR,
YOU CAN HAVE THE TONGUE AND THE BRAIN.
OH, LOVELY.
THANK YOU.
THAT'S THE BRAIN? THAT'S PRETTY SMALL.
OH.
SEE, 'CAUSE YOU WERE ASKING EARLIER,
"SO, WE'RE NOT GONNA BE EATING SHEEP EYES," REMEMBER?
AND I SAID MAYBE.
NO, I SAID, "SO, YOU'RE NOT GONNA BE EATING SHEEP EYES."
OOH, I LIKE THAT. THIS IS THE GOOD STUFF.
WHAT I'M BEGINNING TO NOTICE, BY THE WAY,
IS THAT IT'S NOT JUST DANYA
WITH A SENSE OF HUMOR AROUND HERE.
PEOPLE ACTUALLY LAUGH AT THEMSELVES.
IRONY IS NOT AN UNKNOWN QUALITY.
COME HOME WITH ME IN MY SUITCASE.
[ LAUGHTER ]
THERE'S A CHEERFUL, WHIMSICAL, GOOD-HUMORED,
AND SOPHISTICATED ATMOSPHERE
VERY MUCH AT ODDS WITH THE KIND OF
HUMORLESS FANATICISM I WAS LED TO EXPECT.
[ LAUGHTER ]
NEXT UP...
ENJOY THE FRESH TASTE OF HUMP?
I KNOW I DO!
THEN HANG ON FOR HUMP-A-LICIOUSNESS,
'CAUSE IT'S CAMEL TIME.
[ CAMEL GROANS ]
[ MUNCHING ]
[ CAMEL GROANS ]
Bourdain: A SUSPICIOUS STAIN.
IT'S LONELY OUT THERE IN THE DESERT, MY FRIENDS.
MANY MOONS WITHOUT COMPANIONSHIP.
I DON'T KNOW.
I HOPE THAT'S CORN CHOWDER.
WELCOME TO CAMEL-PALOOZA.
THE CAMEL BAZAAR, FOR ALL YOUR CAMEL NEEDS.
CAMELS HAVE BEEN TRADITIONALLY FOREVER,
LIKE, SOMETHING VERY, VERY IMPORTANT TO ARABS IN GENERAL.
THEY DRINK ITS MILK.
THEY USE IT TO CARRY STUFF.
IN FACT, HERE AT KING ABDULAZIZ UNIVERSITY,
THEY'RE DOING RESEARCH USING CAMEL URINE TO CURE CANCER.
[ CAMEL GROANS ]
THEY EVEN HAVE BEAUTY CONTESTS.
YES.
[ French accent] AH, YES, MY BEAUTY, YOUR EYES, YOUR LEGS,
THE GENTLE SLOPING LINES OF YOUR HUMP.
[ Normal voice ] I AIN'T GETTING UP ON THAT THING.
I DIDN'T BRING YOU HERE FOR A CAMEL RIDE.
WELL, GOOD.
WE'RE HERE TO PICK OUT A CAMEL FOR OUR DINNER.
YES, DINNER.
SADLY, THE CAMEL CARAVAN
IS PRETTY MUCH A THING OF THE PAST.
THESE DAYS, OLD BESSIE HERE IS USEFUL
FOR DRAGGING TOURISTS AROUND IN FIGURE EIGHTS
AND FOR, YOU GUESSED IT -- FOOD.
NATURALLY, DANYA EATS CAMEL ALL THE TIME, RIGHT?
NOW, LET ME ASK YOU SOMETHING. HAVE YOU EATEN CAMEL BEFORE?
NO. [ LAUGHS ]
SEE, I -- I KNEW YOU WERE GONNA SAY THAT.
SHOCKINGLY NEW TO THE DELIGHTS OF CAMEL EATING,
SHE CONSULTS THE EXPERTS.
WHAT THEY SAY IS THE BEST WAY TO CHOOSE ONE
IS TO GET A VERY YOUNG ONE.
Bourdain: RIGHT.
PREFERABLY, ONE THAT HASN'T EVEN STARTED EATING HAY
OR GRASS OR ANY OF THAT KIND OF STUFF.
IT'S STILL EATING FROM MOM.
BABY CAMEL.
CUTE, BIG-EYED BABY CAMEL.
[ CAMEL GROANS ]
NO WAY YOU'RE EVER GONNA SEE ME OFFING MR. HUMPY OVER HERE.
WE ARE DEFINITELY HITTING THE FREEZER CABINET
OVER IN THE CAMEL DISTRICT FOR A STUNT CAMEL.
GO IN PEACE, MY LITTLE FRIEND.
RUN FREE. FROLIC AT WILL.
NEXT, A TRADITIONAL COMMERCIAL MARKETPLACE
AND HUB OF ARABIAN COMMERCE
AS WELL AS A CENTER
FOR SOCIAL INTERACTION AND RECREATION.
IT IS, DANYA TELLS ME, REFERRED TO AS A MALL.
I DON'T WANT EVERYBODY TO KEEP THINKING
THAT SAUDI ARABIA IS ONLY ABOUT CAMELS AND DESERT.
I DON'T THINK THEY THINK ABOUT US DOING SHOPPING.
Bourdain: NO, I THOUGHT ABOUT ALL THE FANTASTICALLY WEALTHY,
MATERIALISTIC PEOPLE
WHO ARE BUYING UP ALL OF OUR REAL ESTATE.
WELL, THERE'S A LOT OF THAT, TOO.
[ CHUCKLES ]
IMAGINE, IF YOU WILL, A HUGE, COVERED STRUCTURE
SHIELDED FROM THE RAYS OF THE SUN
WHERE NOT JUST ONE BUT MANY BUSINESSES OF EVERY VARIETY
ARE HOUSED UNDER ONE ROOF.
Alhamrani: EVEN THOUGH I'M NOT A BIG MALL RAT,
SAUDI CULTURE IS REALLY MALL CULTURE.
THE TWO THINGS THAT PEOPLE DO HERE IS EAT AND SHOP.
RIDES FOR THE KIDS...
A WATER SHOW...
ALL THE WESTERN BRANDS,
AND CLOTHES NOT LIKELY TO BE WORN EVER IN PUBLIC.
SEE, LOOK. I TOLD YOU. HIGH HEELS.
STILETTOS.
EVEN THOUGH WE'RE WALKING AROUND IN OUR ABIYAS
AND THIS IS WHAT PEOPLE SEE USUALLY ON THE OUTSIDE,
UNDERNEATH, WE'RE DRESSED LIKE THAT.
Bourdain: AT HOME, AMONG JUST FAMILY,
YOU CAN GO AROUND LIKE THAT.
OR IF WE'RE IN AN ALL-FEMALE GATHERING.
OH, MAN, THE COMPETITION MUST BE BRUTAL --
IF IT'S ALL-GIRL.
YOU'RE JUST DRESSING FOR OTHER WOMEN?
AND IT'S ALL ABOUT "IN YOUR FACE, ***."
[ LAUGHS ] YEAH, EXACTLY.
OH, MY GOD.
I KNOW.
YOU GOT THE TERROR DOME UP HERE.
AND THEY HAVE AIR HOCKEY, MY FAVORITE THING EVER.
YOU WANT TO PLAY A GAME?
DON'T CHEAT.
[ PUCK CLATTERS ]
AAH!
I WAS, BY THE WAY,
THE CHAMPION AIR-HOCKEY PLAYER ON MY TIER AT ATTICA.
SHOULD I MENTION THAT TO DANYA?
NAH.
YES! YES!
FEAR NOT.
YES!
AW!
YES!
YEAH!
THAT WAS SO CLOSE. THAT WAS REALLY, REALLY CLOSE.
WITHOUT THE FEAR OF IMMINENT SODOMY,
I GUESS I LOSE FOCUS.
GOOD GAME. GOOD GAME.
THAT'S OKAY. DANYA'S BUYING DINNER.
ALBAIK, SAUDI ARABIA'S FAR-SUPERIOR ALTERNATIVE
TO THE DEEP-FRIED COPPER FILES OVER AT THE COLONEL.
CHICKEN TIME.
THE LEGENDARY AND MUCH-LOVED SAUDI STAPLE,
THE VERY NAME OF WHICH
WILL CAUSE THE MOST UNSMILING OF LOCALS
TO GRIN WITH ANTICIPATION.
Alhamrani: WELL, HERE WE ARE AT ALBAIK.
CHICKEN WITH TOP HAT AND FORMAL WEAR.
[ Laughing ] YEAH.
SO YOU KNOW IT'S GOT TO BE GOOD.
WELL, WE HAVE A QUANDARY ALREADY.
MM-HMM.
SINGLE SECTION...
OR FAMILY SECTION?
WHAT DOES THIS MEAN, REALLY?
SINGLE SECTION MEANS IT'S THE MEN'S SECTION.
RIGHT.
FAMILY SECTION'S FOR EVERYONE ELSE.
YES.
OKAY, SO IT'S NOT LIKE THEY'RE SEGREGATING MEN AND WOMEN.
THEY'RE SEGREGATING FAMILIES, MEN AND WOMEN TOGETHER, KIDS.
RIGHT.
LET'S GET SOME CHICKEN.
LET'S DO IT.
AT ALBAIK, THE CHICKEN IS MARINATED IN SPICY SAUCE
AND THEN BROASTED LIKE YOU-KNOW-WHO USED TO DO.
OF COURSE, THERE ARE NUBBETY THINGS --
I BELIEVE THEY CALL THEM NUGGETS HERE --
AND STRANGELY CUT POTATOES,
WHICH HAVE BEEN, CURIOUSLY ENOUGH,
FRIED...IN OIL!
QUITE GOOD, TO TELL THE TRUTH.
OH, IT SMELLS GOOD. COME ON.
OH, YEAH.
IN KEEPING WITH COMMUNITY STANDARDS,
A LITTLE PRIVACY WITH YOUR CHICKEN.
THE WHOLE DOOR THING AND EVERYTHING.
UH-HUH.
AN EXCELLENT IDEA, BY THE WAY,
BECAUSE WHAT I DO WITH MY FRIED CHICKEN,
IT AIN'T PRETTY.
ALL RIGHT, THIS IS THE GARLIC SAUCE.
THAT'S THE GARLIC SAUCE.
CREAMY GARLIC SAUCE, NO LESS.
YOU KNOW WHAT'S GREAT ABOUT THIS PLACE
IS THAT USUALLY ALL THESE BIG FAST-FOOD CHAINS,
THEY SUCK.
RIGHT.
THIS IS OUR OWN LOCAL FAST-FOOD CHAIN,
AND HONESTLY, I THINK IT'S GREAT.
MMM! TRY A NUGGET. YOU HAVE TO.
JUST TRY IT.
THEY LOOK TRULY APPALLING. AND THE SHAPE --
CHICKEN DOES NOT COME IN AN OBLONG SHAPE.
I'M KIND OF AGAINST IT.
YOU'RE ALLOWED TO HATE IT.
YOU'RE RIGHT --
THAT LOOKS LIKE REAL CHICKEN IN THERE.
MM-HMM. IT IS.
THAT IS GOOD. THE SHAPE IS UNFORTUNATE.
WELL, I'M LOVING THIS.
I KNOW THIS ISN'T AN APPROPRIATE TIME TO ASK.
JUST ABOUT ANY RESTAURANT YOU GO INTO,
YOU ARE GONNA HAVE THAT SINGLE SECTION
AND FAMILY SECTION.
THE FACT IS THEY SEGREGATE THE SEXES HERE.
MM-HMM.
WHAT DO YOU SAY TO A WESTERN WOMAN
WHO AUTOMATICALLY AND INSTINCTIVELY
WOULD BE VERY PISSED OFF AT THIS NOTION?
WHEN SOMEBODY MENTIONED THAT TO ME JUST RECENTLY,
I WAS THINKING, "OH, I NEVER THOUGHT OF IT THAT WAY."
I ALWAYS THOUGHT OF IT AS THE WAY THAT,
WELL, THEY'RE SEGREGATING THE MEN.
IT'S NOT LIKE THEY'RE PUSHING THE WOMEN OFF INTO THE CORNER.
THEY'RE TAKING THE SINGLE MEN
AND PUSHING THEM OFF INTO A CORNER.
IT SEEMS TO ASSUME THE WORST
OF MEN'S PREDILECTIONS, BEHAVIOR, ET CETERA,
THAT MEN WILL BEHAVE BADLY.
THEY DO!
AND THAT -- [ LAUGHS ]
THAT MIGHT BE COMMON GROUND, ACTUALLY,
WITH THE PEOPLE I'M TALKING ABOUT.
WHAT ABOUT THE REST OF THE WORLD?
WOULD THE REST OF THE WORLD BE BETTER OFF THIS WAY?
WHAT DO YOU THINK?
I DON'T THINK THAT THERE'S ANYTHING WRONG
WITH THE WAY THINGS ARE IN ITALY,
IN FRANCE, IN THE UNITED STATES,
IN MALAYSIA, IN CHINA.
THERE'S INTERMINGLING OF THE SEXES
EVERYWHERE IN THE WORLD, YOU KNOW?
BUT I THINK THAT, CULTURALLY,
THINGS HAVE BEEN THE WAY THEY ARE HERE FOR SO LONG
THAT IT'S GONNA TAKE TIME FOR THINGS TO CHANGE IF THEY DO.
I FEEL IT'S A VERY FAMILY-ORIENTED SOCIETY,
AND SO THE FAMILY
GETS THE UPPER-HAND KIND OF THING, YOU KNOW?
OR PREFERENTIAL TREATMENT.
EXACTLY.
ON A LIGHTER NOTE, THIS CHICKEN'S REALLY GOOD.
MM-HMM.
YEAH, I'M LIKING THIS A LOT.
GOOD. I'M HAPPY.
NOT BAD FOR A DAY'S WORK,
AND I FEEL, I HAVE TO SAY, VERY COMFORTABLE HERE.
BUT INTO EACH LIFE, A LITTLE RAIN MUST FALL.
DANYA GOT THE IMPRESSION
THAT I NEEDED MORE LIZARD IN MY DIET.
BUT YOU KNOW WHAT? IT'S ONLY GONNA BE A DISAPPOINTMENT.
IT'S NOT A PROBLEM.
I HAVE AN ALTERNATE CRULLER SCENE ALL MAPPED OUT.
[ LAUGHS ]
[ MUNCHING ]
NO TIME IN THE KINGDOM WOULD BE COMPLETE,
OR EVEN REPRESENTATIVE,
WITHOUT SPENDING SOME SERIOUS TIME IN THE DESERT.
[ SPEAKING ARABIC ]
DANYA'S FRIEND AMR IS TAKING US OUT
FOR A CLASSIC BEDOUIN DELICACY, DAB.
THE BAD NEWS IS THAT MEANS "LIZARD"...
FOR BREAKFAST.
AND YOU HAVEN'T HAD LIZARD BEFORE.
NEVER.
AND HE SAID HE HAS.
YES, AMR HAS HAD IT. HE SAYS HE HATED IT.
REALLY?
INTERESTING.
LET'S SEE.
MAYBE IT WILL BE BETTER THAN WE EXPECT.
I AM NOT ENCOURAGED BY THE FACT
THAT DANYA HASN'T TRIED THIS BEFORE EITHER.
SO, YOU GO AROUND BASICALLY LOOKING FOR THE HOLE.
YEAH, LOOKING FOR THE HOLE.
AND SCORPION LIVE
IN THE SAME HOLE WITH THE LIZARD.
WAIT A MINUTE. WHO LIVES IN THERE?
SCORPIONS TOGETHER.
SCORPIONS? TOGETHER? OH, IT'S A PARTY.
SO IF YOU PUT YOUR HAND, YOU WATCH OUT.
MAYBE YOU WILL GET A STING FROM THE SCORPION.
THEY DEFEND EACH OTHER.
OH, REALLY?
YEAH. YEAH.
THERE WILL BE A HALF-ASSED ATTEMPT
AT DEMONSTRATING HOW THEY ARE HUNTED --
BASICALLY BY JAMMING THIS HALF-STUNNED,
TORMENTED CREATURE
INTO A HOLE AND THEN DRAGGING HIM OUT AGAIN.
I THINK WE'RE ON VERY DUBIOUS ETHICAL GROUND HERE.
Man: OVER HERE.
ALL RIGHT.
TIME FOR BRUNCH.
START THE HOLLANDAISE, BOYS.
THE UNFORTUNATE REPTILE'S CHARRED ON OPEN FLAME,
THEN CHOPPED INTO CHUNKS AND TOSSED INTO A POT,
WHERE HE SIMMERS FOR HOURS
WITH A LOVELY STEW OF TOMATO AND ONION.
Alhamrani: ARE YOU EXCITED?
I WILL NOT EVEN TOUCH IT.
YOU'RE NOT HAVING ANY?
NO.
[ ALHAMRANI CHUCKLES ]
NOT EVEN A LITTLE BITE?
OKAY.
[ Laughing ] I'LL CLOSE MY EYES.
I CAN TELL YOU IT DOESN'T SMELL GOOD.
YOU'RE NOT ENCOURAGING ME.
Man: WANT SOME SAUCE?
A LITTLE SAUCE. YES. THANK YOU.
CAN I CHANGE THE PLATE?
NO, NO. I'M KIND OF LIKING MINE.
NO.
[ LAUGHTER ]
PLEASE?!
[ LAUGHTER ]
OKAY, READY?
THAT'S NOT THAT BAD.
IT'S A LOT WHITER THAN I THOUGHT.
I THOUGHT IT WAS GONNA BE, LIKE, DARK AND OILY.
YOU KNOW WHAT? IT'S NOT THAT BAD.
IT TASTES LIKE CHICKEN. IT REALLY DOES, I THINK.
YOU KNOW WHAT IT TASTES LIKE, ACTUALLY?
WHAT?
A LIZARD.
[ LAUGHTER ]
ONCE YOU GET THE SKIN OFF,
IT'S KIND OF GOT A SMOKY FLAVOR THAT'S NOT BAD.
MUCH, MUCH, MUCH, MUCH BETTER THAN I THOUGHT IT WAS GONNA BE.
YEAH, I THINK SO, TOO.
CUISINE, CULTURE, AND DAILY DRESS
ARE ALL, IN SOME WAY,
REFLECTIVE OF THE HARSH LANDSCAPE
AND GREAT DISTANCES JUST OUTSIDE THE CITY LIMITS.
THE COUNTRY IS 95% DESERT.
NO WONDER THE GARMENT OF CHOICE IS THE THOBE.
I TOTALLY DIG IT.
THERE'S THAT VENTILATION FACTOR.
I FEEL SO FREE, IF YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN.
AND I GOT TO TELL YOU -- LOOKING LIKE EVERYONE ELSE,
FEELING TRULY INVISIBLE AND ANONYMOUS,
IT FEELS KIND OF GOOD.
HEY, I COULD GET A STUNT DOUBLE FOR THIS NOW.
ANYBODY COULD PLAY ME.
WHAT DO THOSE KOOKY, CRAZY SAUDIS DO
WHEN THEY WANT TO CUT LOOSE?
[ ENGINE REVS ]
DRIVE AROUND THE DESERT LIKE MANIACS.
A HOBBY POSSIBLE IN A COUNTRY
WHERE GAS IS LESS THAN A DOLLAR A GALLON.
SAUDIS OF ALL AGES
PURSUE THIS ACTIVITY WITH UNBRIDLED ENTHUSIASM.
WHOLE FAMILIES LOADED INTO
EVERY KIND OF FOUR-WHEEL-DRIVE VEHICLE,
ATTEMPTING TO CLIMB STEEPER AND STEEPER DUNES.
IT'S THE SAUDI VERSION OF A PICNIC.
IT'S FUN, ESPECIALLY IF YOU LIKE
FEELING YOUR HEAD BOUNCE OFF THE DASHBOARD.
WHILE AMR AND I ARE CARVING UP THE DESERT SANDS,
OUR STUNT CAMEL WAS BEING PREPPED
FOR ITS TIME IN A GIANT ERSATZ PRESSURE COOKER.
MEANWHILE,
OUR OWN AIR-CONDITIONED DESERT DINING TENT
IS BEING MADE READY.
[ LAUGHTER ]
AFTER A FEW HOURS OF HIGH-PRESSURE SIMMERING,
MR. HUMPY'S STUNT TWIN IS SUFFICIENTLY COOKED.
A PROPORTIONATE AMOUNT OF TAITH-STYLE SELEEK,
A WHITE RICE COOKED IN MILK,
IS LITERALLY SHOVELED ONTO THE PLATTER.
Alhamrani: LOOKS LIKE A HUGE, PREHISTORIC ANIMAL.
IT'S A PARTY-SIZED ROAST.
YEAH, EXACTLY.
AN IMPOSING HEAP OF FOOD,
BUT CAMEL'S NOT A DISH THAT IS EATEN IN SMALL GROUPS.
IF YOU WANT TO MAKE A DENT,
I SUGGEST INVITING A CROWD OF AT LEAST 20.
OURS IS SHARED
WITH DANYA'S FRIENDS AND FAMILY,
A FEW PASSERSBY, FELLOW DESERT MOTORISTS,
AND, OF COURSE, MY NEW BESTEST PAL, AMR.
THIS IS THE CAMEL THAT YOU KILLED,
AND HE SUFFER SO MUCH.
[ LAUGHTER ]
YES, BUT I DRAW HIS SPIRIT INTO MY BODY.
AGAIN, SERVE IN THE MIDDLE, AND HAVE AT IT WITH THE HANDS.
Amr: THIS IS THE HUMP.
AND THE MEAT END OF THE HUMP IS SO TENDER.
HE WILL CUT YOU A PIECE.
SURPRISINGLY, THE CAMEL IS TENDER,
RELATIVELY LEAN FOR THE MOST PART,
AND DELICIOUS.
Alhamrani: HE SAID THAT'S SOME OF THE BEST.
OH, YEAH, THAT IS.
THIS IS LIKE -- NOT GOAT. THIS IS LIKE LEG OF LAMB.
THIS IS GREAT. IT'S KIND OF DELICATE.
I HONESTLY THOUGHT IT WOULD HAVE A MUCH STRONGER,
GAMEY KIND OF TASTE.
I DON'T KNOW WHY, BUT THAT'S JUST KIND OF WHAT I THOUGHT.
I THOUGHT SO, TOO.
BUT IT'S NOT LIKE THAT AT ALL.
NO, IT'S NOT.
OUR TRADITION IS FULL OF STUFF
THAT ENCOURAGES PEOPLE TO GO OUT AND SHARE.
IT'S RUDE FOR US NOT TO TAKE CARE OF OUR GUESTS.
WELL, NOW YOU'VE HAD CAMEL.
YEAH, I'M GONNA HAVE SOME MORE, TOO.
THIS DEFINITELY BEATS THE LIZARD BREAKFAST BY A MILE.
IN FACT, IT'S DAMN GOOD.
CAMEL -- THE OTHER WHITE MEAT?
MAYBE SO.
NEXT UP, WHAT REALLY HAPPENS BEHIND CLOSED DOORS
IN A SAUDI HOME.
NO, NO, I KNOW IT.
TURN OFF THE CAMERA.
[ MUNCHING ]
FOR MY LAST STOP, A HOME-COOKED MEAL
WHERE IT ALL STARTED --
DANYA'S PLACE.
Alhamrani: COME, MAKE YOURSELF COMFORTABLE.
I'M POURED TEA AND INTRODUCED TO DANYA'S SISTERS,
FRIENDS, AND IN-LAWS,
MOST OF WHOM HAVE SPENT ALL DAY
PUTTING TOGETHER A KIND OF
COOPERATIVE TRADITIONAL POTLUCK --
DISHES VERY FAMILIAR TO DANYA,
A KIND OF GREATEST HITS OF HER FAMILY'S HOME COOKING.
IT'S A PRETTY EXTRAVAGANT SPREAD, I GOT TO SAY,
BUT THAT'S THE SAUDI WAY OF HOSPITALITY.
YOU PULL OUT ALL STOPS FOR GUESTS.
THIS IS A MIND-BLOWING SPREAD OF FOOD COMING OUT HERE.
REALLY.
Alhamrani: IT'S BASICALLY LIKE,
WHERE CAN YOU EAT REAL SAUDI FOOD?
AT HOME, YOU KNOW?
THIS IS ALL TYPICAL MEKKAWI FOOD.
A LOT OF THE PEOPLE IN MECCA MAKE THESE KINDS OF FOODS.
LET'S START WITH THE SOUP.
THAT'S THE CAMEL-TOE SOUP, RIGHT?
[ LAUGHS ]
THERE'S ALWAYS ONE IN THE FAMILY.
IN ADDITION TO A DELIGHTFULLY ROWDY,
FUNNY, SILLY, AND CASUAL LEVEL OF DISCOURSE,
THERE'S BARLEY SOUP WITH YOGURT...
CHICKEN WITH RICE...
Man: TA-DA!
...TWO KINDS OF DELICIOUS DUMPLINGS.
Alhamrani: THAT'S CALLED AISH BEL-LAHM, WHICH MEANS "BREAD WITH MEAT,"
WHICH IS SAUDI PIZZA. YEAH.
WHO WOULD HAVE THOUGHT THAT SAUDI ARABIA COULD BE FUN,
THAT PEOPLE FROM A PLACE SO DIFFERENT,
SO FOREIGN FROM WHERE I COME FROM AND WHAT I BELIEVE,
COULD ALSO BE SO SIMILAR?
HILARIOUS, TOO. A JOY TO BE AROUND.
AMR'S BEHIND YOU, TEARING UP.
HE'S SAD TO SEE YOU GO.
IT'S NOT LIKE WHAT THEY SAY ON THE NEWS ABOUT SAUDI ARABIA
ISN'T TRUE OR PARTLY TRUE.
IT'S THAT THAT'S NOT THE WHOLE PICTURE.
IT'S ALWAYS A BIGGER,
MORE NUANCED, MORE COMPLICATED STORY.
WHO ARE THE SAUDIS?
I WON'T INSULT THEM
BY TRYING TO SUM THEM UP IN A FEW SENTENCES.
SUFFICE TO SAY THAT I MET A LOT OF VERY PROUD,
VERY WARM, VERY FUNNY, EASY-TO-BE-AROUND PEOPLE
DURING MY TIME HERE.
I DON'T, I'VE COME TO BELIEVE,
HAVE TO AGREE WITH YOU TO LIKE YOU OR RESPECT YOU.
THE FOOD, WITH ITS MIX OF INFLUENCES,
WAS ALSO SO MUCH BETTER THAN EXPECTED.
THIS WAS AN EXTRAORDINARY SPREAD.
I'M...BLOWN AWAY.
IT'S FANTASTIC.
WELL, IT'S GREAT TO HAVE YOU IN OUR HOME.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR BEING HERE.
THANK YOU.
I REALLY WANTED YOU TO MEET MY FAMILY,
AND IT'S OUR HONOR HAVING YOU AT OUR TABLE.
IT'S AN HONOR TO BE HERE AND A REALLY, REALLY GOOD TIME.
WE'RE GONNA KEEP IN TOUCH?
ABSOLUTELY.
[ LAUGHTER ]
AND, OF COURSE,
THERE'S THE EXTRAORDINARY WOMAN
WHO PUT THE WHOLE THING TOGETHER...
DANYA.
IN A COUNTRY WHERE WOMEN AREN'T EVEN ALLOWED TO DRIVE,
SHE STANDS OUT AS A FORCE OF NATURE,
UNDAUNTED, AN ADVOCATE FOR HER HOMELAND
WHO CONVINCED ME TO GO TO SAUDI ARABIA
WHEN ALL I'D BEEN LOOKING FOR WAS AN EASY WAY OUT
AND DID A DAMN GOOD JOB OF IT, TOO.
SO THANK YOU, DANYA,
FOR SHOWING ME WHAT I WAS MISSING,
WHAT I HAD WRONG,
AND FOR OPENING A WINDOW INTO A WORLD
THAT IS, IN THE MOST IMPORTANT WAYS,
NOT SO VERY DIFFERENT THAN OUR OWN.