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Would you like to have a general lighting setup made almost completely out of scrap
and salvaged items for roughly $15?
[Intro - richardtep.com]
Howdy - RichardStep here. I just wanted to introduce you to my general purpose light
stand. Which I use as a key light but is just good old all around general lighting. Now
I'm going to run through a very quick kind of howto or philosophy on building one of
your own. The dimensions and piece parts you use and wood type and all that jazz doesn't
matter just as long as you have the general overall construction philosophy in order.
My base is a little more complex than it needs to be. errr. You don't really need much more
than a butt jointed 2x4's. So I can remove the top part and make it easier for transport.
Here goes.
This is the stand base. It weighs approximately 15 pounds and is made of scrap pine wood 1
by 10's, 2 by 4's, and 2 by 8's all cut to the desired dimensions.
The general idea here is to create a sturdy base that won't tip easily and allows for
a very tight frictional fit for the top "clam-shell-like" portion of the light stand.
I opted to make the base as level and smooth as possible to promote stability and allow
for adding casters in the future.
The top portion of the stand will slide over this tongue and provide for support and stability.
The joints I used are simple butt joints fastened only with screws.
For a general idea of the measurements I used: - the tongue is approximately 7 3/4 inches
tall - the 2x4 supports are approximately 5 1/2
inches tall - and the width between 2x8 support walls
is approximately 12 1/2 inches
It won't take too many times knocking your shins around before realizing why rounding
off these corners is a good idea.
The top portion of the light stand weighs in at about 13 pounds and the overall height
is approximately 5 feet.
The clam-shell boards are approximately 24 inches in length.
The clam-shell boards overlap the light fixture support board by approximately 11 inches.
This brings the light fixture board length to about 4 feet.
The face plate of the fixture is easily removed once all 6 base-friction rings are removed.
I drilled a hole through the support board large enough to run all 4 fixture wires through.
I used screws in the fixture's 4 existing screw holes to affix the fixture to the support
boards. Washers were necessary on the ends to more properly distribute the fastener load
as the holes were large.
Don't forget your ground-strap!
This bulb-base friction ring is used, in conjunction with the other 5 rings, to support the bulbs
and hold the face-plate in place.
In order to more effectively direct the light, an aluminized cardboard coffee can was used
as a reflector. Simply cut a hole in the metal bottom roughly the size of the bulb-base friction
ring. Be careful when using a utility knife.
Precision is not entirely necessary on the metal hole as the plastic lid, with a cross
incision, will tighten up some of the slop in the cut.
Now just slide it on and VIOLA!
Rinse and repeat 5 times. By the way, Maxwell house's coffee cans had the most reflective
inner surface. And no they did not pay me to say this.
This fixture was originally rated for 6 40w bulbs, so make sure your total wattage per
bulb stays under 40w. I used 6ea 20w CFL bulbs.
I opted to put a partial housing around the switch in order to protect the switch from
damage when placed horizontally and to provide extra protection for the semi-exposed wiring.
The dimensions are not important so long as the height of the board is greater than the
height of the switch.
I used a piece of 2x4 to act as a housing for the outlet box. I had to drill holes on
both ends for the fixture wiring and the power cord cable. The center of the 2x4 was bored
out just enough to fit the box snuggly.
Then simply wire in the fixture and power cord to the switch and you're done! When looking
for a switch, grab a 2-pole version. Put a faceplate on the unit and label accordingly.
Here is a test with several lights on.
Here is a test with 1 overhead light on.
So I hope this helps you get your light on. Have a good one - bye!
[Outro - richardstep.com]
Ahhhh - I can't seeeeeeee - ahhhhhhhhh.