Tip:
Highlight text to annotate it
X
Now I can demonstrate how to properly true the wheel. Alright let's take a close look
at the final truing of this wheel. We're also going to take note of the roundness of the
wheel. If we put our feeler gages up so they're just hitting the side of the rim here, and
we make our way around, we see one spot where we're just touching. There it is. Now, because
that spot is just touching on the left side, we want to de-tension the left side spokes
and tension the right side spokes in that immediate area. If you put your spoke wrench
on to the ***, turning it counter clockwise as you look at it from the outside how you're
de-tensioning the spoke. By turning the spoke driver clockwise on a as you look at it from
the outside of the wheel, you're tensioning that spoke. So, we want to move the rim to
the right slightly, I'm going to add a little bit of tension here, and subtract a little
bit of tension here. And that's going to move that rim off to the right side. We've done
a little bit better, one more spot to work on. Remember that wheel truing and wheel building
is a series of small and fine adjustments. Don't get too crazy turning these nipples
three or four turns, you'll have a radically upset wheel. You want to do subtle adjustments,
taking careful look at what you've done at each step. Here's a way to confirm that you've
calculated your spokes correctly. When the final tension is in the wheel, you should
see just the top of the spoke sticking into the slot of the ***, shouldn't stick through
the wheel, you don't want to puncture your inner tube. But yet it should have full engagement
in the ***.