Tip:
Highlight text to annotate it
X
(trolley bell dings)
(Anthony) SO IT'S BEEN A LOT OF TIME SINCE SALAZAR,
SINCE COLONIAL WAR PORTUGAL. WHAT'S GOOD NOW?
WHAT'S GREAT ABOUT LISBON?
(speaking foreign language)
(man) THE COUNTRY'S GOING THROUGH THIS CRISIS,
BUT AT THE SAME TIME, EVERYBODY'S VALUING
THE NICE THINGS THAT WE HAVE.
A LOT OF MUSEUMS, A LOT OF THEATER.
A LOT OF MUSIC,
SOME OF THE MOST INCREDIBLE COASTLINE,
SEAFOOD, HISTORY, ARCHITECTURE.
SUCH A SENSE OF COMMUNITY.
EVERY TIME I WALK AROUND, IT'S, LIKE, OH,
SOMETHING TO DISCOVER.
(man) YOU SEE MANY LAYERS OF TIME.
(Anthony) WHAT OTHER MAJOR CAPITALS LOOK LIKE THIS?
NONE. YOU HAVEN'T (bleep) IT UP.
(laughing)
WHEW, I'M LOOKING FORWARD TO THIS.
(man) AAH, YEAH!
I'M ANTHONY BOURDAIN.
THAT'S RIGHT!
I WRITE. I TRAVEL.
OH, LOOK OUT NOW!
I EAT, AND I'M HUNGRY FOR MORE.
♪ OOH, YOU'VE GOT TO ♪
♪ GET LOST ♪
♪ NO RESERVATIONS ♪
♪♪
I'VE BEEN TO PORTUGAL BEFORE--
THE NORTH, TO THE AZORES.
AND I'VE BEEN TO MUCH OF THE FORMER PORTUGUESE EMPIRE--
BRAZIL, MACAO, MOZAMBIQUE.
BUT I'D NEVER BEEN TO LISBON.
IT'S AN OLD CITY, THE HEART OF THE AGE OF DISCOVERY,
ONCE THE WORLD'S RICHEST EMPIRE.
THERE'S HISTORY HERE, LOTS OF IT.
WE HAVE MUCH TO OFFER IN TERMS OF TOURISM,
LIKE GOOD WEATHER, GOOD FOOD.
WE HAVE MOUNTAINS. WE HAVE THE SEA.
(Anthony) AND IT'S A BEAUTIFUL CITY.
THEY DON'T MAKE CITIES LIKE THIS.
YOU KNOW, I TOOK THE TRAM HERE.
I MEAN, THIS IS (bleep) RIDICULOUS.
WHO DOES THIS? YOU KNOW, THIS OLD THING
GOING THROUGH THE-- IT'S AWESOME.
I THINK THAT PEOPLE ARE NICE. WHAT DO YOU THINK?
I THINK SO, TOO.
LISBOETAS, AS THE LOCALS ARE KNOWN,
LIKE THEIR FOOD.
THEY TALK ABOUT IT A LOT AND HAVE STRONG IDEAS
ABOUT WHAT VISITORS SHOULD EAT AND WHERE.
WE HAVE CHORIZO, MEAT SAUSAGE.
SQUID, OCTOPUS.
WE HAVE MORCELA. IT'S LIKE A BLOOD SAUSAGE.
I LOVE BLOOD SAUSAGE.
IT'S ONE OF MY FAVORITE, FAVORITE THINGS ON EARTH.
BUT I THINK THE BIG THING ABOUT PORTUGAL IS THE SEAFOOD.
RAMIRO IS ONE OF THOSE PLACES
THAT LOCALS LOVE, HAVE ALWAYS LOVED,
AND ALWAYS WILL LOVE.
THIS IS A LOCAL PLACE.
ANYWHERE FROM TOP-END BUSINESSMEN TO REGULAR PEOPLE.
HERE WE CALL CERVEJARIA.
CERVEJARIA.
CHEF-FRIENDLY, THE KIND OF STRAIGHT-AHEAD MEALS
THAT CHEFS TIRED OF SAUCE AND GARNISH CRAVE...
I CAN GUARANTEE YOU, IF ASK TEN CHEFS IN LISBON,
20 CHEFS IN LISBON WHERE THEY WOULD LIKE TO GO...
YEAH?
THEY'D COME HERE.
CHEFS LIKE JOSé AVILLEZ AND HENRIQUE Sá PESSOA.
WE START WITH SEAFOOD,
AND WE FINISH WITH A PREGO. IT'S A STEAK--STEAK SANDWICH.
THAT'S THE TRADITION?
THAT'S THE TRADITION.
START WITH THE SEAFOOD, END WITH THE STEAK SANDWICH.
AND THAT'S WHAT WE CALL HERE THE DESSERT,
AND FOR DESSERT YOU HAVE A STEAK SANDWICH.
THESE GUYS HAVE BEEN AT THE FOREFRONT
OF THE NEW MOVE TOWARDS MODERNIZING
TRADITIONAL PORTUGUESE CUISINE.
BUT LIKE ME, THEY STILL LOVE THE GOOD OLD STUFF.
WE'RE GONNA START WITH THESE.
BEAUTIFUL, THANKS.
GOOSE BARNACLES.
JUST SQUEEZE IT-- SUCK 'EM RIGHT OUT?
(José) YEAH.
SHRIMPS TO DIE FOR.
SWEET.
LANGOUSTINE THAT'LL MAKE YOU CRY.
WOW, THOSE ARE PRETTY.
TINY, ALMOST SWEET LITTLE CLAMS.
TO ME, THE PORTUGUESE DO CLAMS
BETTER THAN ANYONE IN THE WORLD.
A BARRAGE OF MINIMALIST SEAFOOD OF MAXIMUM QUALITY.
THESE ARE GREAT. THESE ARE REALLY, REALLY AWESOME.
YEAH.
THAT'S THE FAT AND THE ROE
ALL MASHED UP?
YEAH, MADE TOGETHER.
OH, YEAH.
WOW, LOOK AT THAT THING. EVERYTHING I LOVE IN LIFE,
THIS IS--THIS IS IT RIGHT HERE.
GOOD LUCK FOR YOU, OKAY?
THANK YOU.
I DON'T LIKE HOW HE SAID THAT. "GOOD LUCK."
(slurping)
(crunching)
MMM.
WOW, THOSE ARE GOOD.
MMM.
MY GOD.
OH, YEAH. (slurping)
YOU TASTE IT. IT'S LIKE EXPLOSION OF THE SEA.
OH.
WHOO-WHEE.
THIS IS HEAVEN.
MAN.
THEY'RE VERY STRAIGHT-AHEAD.
THEY DON'T DO A LOT TO THEIR FISH HERE.
ONLY COOK IT.
AND THEN YOU HAVE SOME SEASONINGS--GARLIC, CILANTRO.
WE DON'T NEED MANY SPICES OR FANCY HERBS.
THIS IS... (speaking indistinctly)
ON TOP OF THIS? NO.
SQUEEZE ALL THE SHRIMP BRAINS OUT AND STUFF--
IT'S, LIKE, THE BEST SAUCE.
A LOT OF PEOPLE FIND IT GROSS, BUT...
BASICALLY, IF YOU DON'T LIKE WHAT'S INSIDE A SHRIMP HEAD,
I-I CAN'T BE YOUR FRIEND.
(speaking indistinctly)
THIS IS JUST INCREDIBLE.
YOU GUYS HAVE GOT IT GOOD.
WE HAVE TO SAY,
NOT EVERYONE IS DOING THIS EVERY NIGHT IN PORTUGAL.
YEAH, OKAY.
SOME PEOPLE DON'T THINK, LIKE--
EVERY DAY, MOST OF THE POPULATION WAKE UP
FOR A GIANT PIECE OF SEAFOOD EXACTLY LIKE THIS--
PART OF THE DAILY DIET OF YOUR AVERAGE PORTUGUESE.
WHAT DO YOU THINK THE FUTURE
OF PORTUGUESE GASTRONOMY IS GONNA BE?
I MEAN, THE MAIN QUESTION IS, IS THE MONEY HERE?
YEAH.
AND LET'S FACE IT, WE ARE A COUNTRY
THAT ECONOMICALLY IS GONNA LIVE OFF TOURISTS.
THIS FOOD IN ANOTHER COUNTRY OF EUROPE...
OH, YEAH, YEAH.
YOU COULD NOT AFFORD THAT.
NO WAY.
WHAT WE'RE HAVING HERE ANYWHERE ELSE--
IF YOU GO TO LONDON, IF YOU GO TO PARIS,
IF YOU GO TO ROME, WE WOULD BE PAYING $300, $400.
THAT--THAT PRAWN WOULD BE 50 EUROS...
JUST FOR THE PRAWN.
EASY, JUST FOR THE ONE.
YEAH, YEAH, YEAH.
THAT WAS INCREDIBLE.
YEAH?
YOU READY FOR DESSERT?
READY FOR DESSERT.
FOR DESSERT, AND YOU GOTTA HAVE DESSERT, RIGHT?
PREGO...
LOTS OF GARLIC AND MEAT.
AWESOME.
A STEAK SANDWICH/*** MOP...
THERE ARE CERTAIN AMERICAN DISHES--
IT'S LIKE, YOU WANT THE NASTY MUSTARD.
YEAH, YEAH, THAT'S THE NASTY MUSTARD.
THAT PUTS YOU RIGHT OVER THE EDGE IN A PROTEIN OVERDOSE,
WHICH IS TO SAY, HAPPINESS.
MMM.
YEAH, I GET IT. YOU'RE REALLY (bleep) DRUNK.
YOU NEED THIS.
YEP, 'CAUSE SEAFOOD WAS JUST--
WAS NOT GONNA BE ABLE TO--
AFTER TOO MANY BEERS.
10 OR 15 BEERS.
RIGHT.
THIS IS NOT THE PLACE WHERE YOU BRING YOUR GIRLFRIEND TO EAT.
NO.
AWESOME.
♪♪
(singing in Portuguese)
YOU COULD SAY THAT FADO IS LISBON'S ANSWER TO THE BLUES,
BUT IT'S MORE THAN THAT.
AT ANY OF SCORES OF BARS LIKE THIS,
PROFESSIONALS AND AMATEURS ALIKE
STAND AND TAKE THEIR TURN,
SINGING HEARTFELT SONGS OF SEPARATION,
LOSS, YEARNING, AND LOVE GONE WRONG.
(singing continues)
IT EMBODIES THE PORTUGUESE PROPENSITY FOR NOSTALGIA,
AN ACHE FOR THE PAST, SAUDADE.
BUT FOR MANY, THE PAST IS TOO PAINFUL.
THIS MUSIC WAS CLOSELY ASSOCIATED FOR MANY YEARS
WITH THE SALAZAR REGIME.
YOU DON'T REALLY LIKE FADO MUSIC.
WHEN THE REVOLUTION CAME, FADO WAS... (croaks)
FOR PORTUGAL'S GREATEST LIVING WRITER,
ANTóNIO LOBO ANTUNES,
FADO IS THE SOUNDTRACK TO BAD TIMES.
YOU CAN HARDLY BLAME HIM.
FOR DECADES ANTONIO SALAZAR RULED WITH AN IRON FIST
AND JACKBOOT.
THERE WERE COLONIAL WARS, A REPUBLIC OF FEAR.
AND THE PRICE OF ***--
*** WAS CHEAPER THAN CIGARETTES.
WHY?
BECAUSE IF YOU'RE... (clicks tongue)
YOU WOULDN'T FIGHT THE DICTATORSHIP.
AH.
(singing continues)
LOBO ANTUNES SERVED AS A MEDIC
DURING PORTUGAL'S BRUTAL COLONIAL WAR
IN ANGOLA IN THE EARLY '70s.
EVERYTHING CHANGES WHEN WE GO TO WAR, I GUESS.
THE SOLDIERS, THEY WERE SO BRAVE, SO INCREDIBLY BRAVE.
WE WERE VERY POOR. ONE OF THEM TOLD ME,
"YOU KNOW, SINCE I AM IN THE ARMY,
IT'S THE FIRST TIME I HAVE SHOES."
WE WERE VERY, VERY POOR.
EVEN NOW, 40 YEARS LATER,
NOTICE HOW HE DROPS HIS VOICE
AND COVERS HIS MOUTH WHEN HE SPEAKS...
AS IF SOMEONE MIGHT BE LISTENING.
STILL?
PEOPLE DON'T WANT TO BE REMINDED ABOUT THE PAST,
ESPECIALLY IF IT'S A GUILTY OR UNATTRACTIVE PAST.
(singing in Portuguese)
27-YEAR-OLD CARMINHO IS ONE OF A NEW GENERATION
OF FADO SINGERS.
WITH A NUMBER ONE HIT
AND SHOWS SOLD OUT ALL OVER EUROPE,
YOU CAN HARDLY ASSOCIATE HER
WITH THE DICTATORSHIP IN THE OLD DAYS.
AND, (bleep) IT'S BEAUTIFUL.
BUT FOR LOBO ANTUNES,
YOU CAN NEVER FORGET.
HE CAN BARELY BRING HIMSELF TO WATCH.
HELL, I CAN UNDERSTAND WHERE HE'S COMING FROM,
BUT I LIKED IT.
SO THE WIND...
SPREAD IT AWAY.
SPREAD THE NAME AWAY.
SHE THOUGHT THAT PUTTING HIS NAME IN THE WIND...
WOULD HELP HER FORGET.
WOULD HELP HER.
BUT IT WAS THE OPPOSITE,
BECAUSE THE WIND IS EVERYWHERE, SO HIS NAME IS EVERYWHERE.
FADO MUSIC--THESE ARE VERY SENTIMENTAL SONGS.
THEY ARE ABOUT LONGING, DISPLACEMENT,
HEARTBREAK, YEARNING.
TH-THESE ARE THINGS I HEAR A LOT IN...
LISBON.
IN LISBON.
WHAT DOES IT SPEAK TO, UH, THE PORTUGUESE SOUL?
YOU KNOW, THE CONQUESTS, NAVIGATORS, AND SO ON.
WE ARE A VERY OLD COUNTRY
WITH A LOT OF WARS AND--
AND SAILORS GOING-- DISCOVERING THE WORLD,
BRIDES WAITING, MOTHERS CRYING.
I THINK THAT'S--
MAYBE CAN--CAN STAY IN THE BLOOD.
FOR MANY, MANY YEARS IN DICTATORSHIP
THERE WAS NO FUTURE.
THERE WAS, UM, A VERY TEENY PRESENT
AND THE ENORMOUS PAST OF THE DICTATORSHIP.
NOTHING.
(Anthony) SO WHY IS THIS A GOOD PLACE TO LIVE?
BRAZILIANS, NO MATTER HOW POOR,
YOU KNOW, WHILE THEY'RE BEING BEATEN
BY THE POLICE IN A FAVELA, THEY'RE GONNA--YOU KNOW,
IF YOU ASK 'EM, "WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT YOUR COUNTRY?"
"BRAZIL NUMBER ONE," THEY'RE GONNA TELL YOU.
"BRAZIL-- BEST COUNTRY IN THE WORLD."
I'M NOT GETTING THAT HERE.
PORTUGUESE PEOPLE ARE NOT SO POSITIVE.
I'VE NOTICED.
IN A CRISIS SOMETIMES WE HAVE AN OPPORTUNITY.
I THINK WE JUST HAVE TO--
TO KEEP THE HOPE.
♪♪
♪♪
(birds squawking)
ARE WE THERE YET?
OH, NO, ANOTHER FISHING SCENE.
YOU KNOW THAT'S WHAT I'M THINKING, RIGHT?
BUT OUT THERE NEAR WHERE THE TEJO RIVER
EMPTIES INTO THE ATLANTIC,
FROM WHERE THE OLD EMPIRE LAUNCHED VASCO DA GAMA
AND A THOUSAND SHIPS TO CIRCLE THE GLOBE,
THAT'S WHERE THE OCTOPUS IS.
AND THAT'S WHAT I'LL BE HAVING FOR LUNCH
WITH CHEF JOSé AVILLEZ
AND FISHERMAN CARLOS AND HIS WIFE CARLA.
(José) THIS BOAT TO FISH-- 40,000 EUROS.
IT'S VERY EXPENSIVE FOR THEM TO MAINTAIN.
NOT A LOT OF WORK OUT THERE THESE DAYS
IN A WORLDWIDE FINANCIAL CRISIS
THAT'S HITTING PORTUGAL PARTICULARLY HARD.
THIS IS ONE WAY TO CARVE OUT SOMETHING OF A LIVING.
(Carlos) IT'S READY, THE--THE FISHING.
(Anthony) PRAY TO GOD WE GET SOME HERE, MAN,
'CAUSE IF IT'S OUT THERE, ROUGHER,
I'M WAITING TO COUGH UP MY BREAKFAST.
(José) YOU NEED TO...
KEEP IT MOVING.
MOVING.
RIGHT ABOVE THE BOTTOM?
(Carlos speaking indistinctly)
ON THE BOTTOM.
IT'S A LOT LIKE SQUID FISHING, YES?
YES.
BAH.
(Carlos) THIS-- GOING TO THE SEA.
IT'S TOO SMALL.
I WOULD'VE EATEN HIM.
YEAH.
I THINK WE ARE GOING.
THEY'RE SAYING THERE IS NOTHING HERE.
TWO WEEKS AGO, THEY WERE CATCHING, LIKE,
200 KILOS A DAY OF OCTOPUS,
BUT NOT TODAY, FOR SURE.
♪♪
TONY, YOU WANT?
UH, NOT RIGHT NOW.
NO. YOU GUYS ENJOY YOURSELVES.
IT'S COLD. AND I DID NOT, IT TURNS OUT,
WEAR SENSIBLE FOOTWEAR FOR A LEAKY BOAT.
(bleep) TOO LATE, DUDE.
(laughter)
I CAN'T FEEL MY LEGS.
I JUST SAT ON A MACKEREL.
(sniffles)
(Carlos) ONE MORE SMALL.
ONE MORE SMALL.
(sighs)
DO WE HAVE ANY STUNT OCTOPUS?
HEY.
(grunts)
THAT LOOKED PROMISING.
AH. YEAH, THIS IS THE BEST.
THAT'S BIG ENOUGH.
SHARP KNIFE TO THE BRAIN
AND FASTER THAN A HIGH-CONCEPT TRAVEL SHOW
THAT DIDN'T HAVE GOOD FIRST-WEEK NUMBERS,
OUR CATCH IS GIVEN A SWIFT AND MERCIFUL END.
(Carlos grunts)
(José) GOOD CATCH.
♪♪
REFRESHMENT PERHAPS? COLD, COLD BEER.
(whistling)
(chirps)
(Anthony) SO BOIL FIRST FOR HOW LONG?
(Carlos) 40 MINUTES. 40 MINUTES.
(José) 40 MINUTES, AND THEN...
40 MINUTES, THEN GRILL.
IT'S NICE.
CHEERS.
(speaking indistinctly)
MMM.
GOOD?
GOOD, MAN. YEAH, TENDER.
(speaking indistinctly)
(Carla speaking Portuguese)
THEY USED TO WORK--SHE USED TO WORK IN A HOTEL.
(Anthony) MM-HMM.
AND HE USED TO WORK IN THE METRO...
MM-HMM.
DRIVING THE METRO,
AND IN '81 THEY COME BACK HERE TO FISH.
HARD WAY TO MAKE A LIVING.
VERY HARD WAY.
HOPE IT'S FUN. SO WHAT'S OUT THERE?
THERE'S SARDINES. THERE'S MACKEREL.
OCTOPUS. SQUID?
CUTTLEFISH? YEP. BUT, YOU KNOW,
THE VALUE OF FISH CHANGES LIKE THAT.
20 YEARS AGO SQUID WAS SUPER CHEAP. TRASH FISH.
OCTOPUS-- THEY THROW IT BACK.
(conversation in Portuguese)
(Anthony) FISHING--IS IT GETTING HARDER EVERY YEAR,
OR DOES IT--DO YOU HAVE GOOD YEARS AND BAD YEARS?
(speaking Portuguese)
HARDER EVERY YEAR.
I MEAN, GENERALLY SPEAKING,
WHAT EVERYBODY COMPLAINS ABOUT IS FEWER FISH...
YEAH.
MORE EXPENSIVE GAS.
HERE IT'S THE SAME.
IT'S THE SAME RIGHT HERE.
NOW THEY'RE SELLING FISH
CHEAPER THAN TEN YEARS AGO.
CHEAPER?
CHEAPER. THEY SELL THE SARDINE FOR 20 CENTS SOMETIMES,
AND IN THE MARKETS 5 EUROS.
WHO'S MAKING THE MONEY?
(all laughing)
(speaking indistinctly)
IT'S NOT SO GOOD FOR THIS KIND OF FISH.
THE E.U.-- WHO'S IT GOOD FOR?
I MEAN, E.U.'s GOOD FOR ME
BECAUSE I DON'T LIKE GOING THROUGH BORDER CONTROLS.
YEP.
SO THAT'S EASY.
THAT'S EASY.
I LIKE USING THE SAME MONEY. BUT WHO ELSE IS IT GOOD FOR?
I MEAN, IT'S NOT GOOD FOR GERMANY.
IT'S NOT GOOD FOR GREECE. WHO'S IT GOOD FOR?
VERY BAD. (laughing)
♪♪
WHENEVER POSSIBLE, I LIKE TO EAT
WHERE I CAN ALSO FILL ALL MY FISHING TACKLE NEEDS.
SOL E PESCA
IN THE CRUMMY PART OF TOWN,
A STRIP POPULATED
BY CRUISERWEIGHT HOOKERS WITH BAD DENTISTRY.
(Anthony) AND I COULD BUY A ROD HERE IF I WANTED TO?
(man) I THINK SO.
BUT YOU GUYS ARE NOT FISHERMEN.
NO.
SO WHAT DO YOU COME HERE FOR?
TO DRINK.
ALONG WITH MY LOVE OF FISHING TACKLE,
I'VE RECENTLY ACQUIRED A TRUE AND DEEP LOVE
FOR REALLY GOOD STUFF...
EELS, SARDINE.
THAT COMES IN CANS. REALLY.
(speaking Portuguese)
SMOKED TUNA FISH.
MMM. IT'S LIKE TUNA JERKY.
YEP, CLASSIC.
IS THIS SORT OF LIKE THE REGULAR MUSICIAN'S DIET?
YEAH.
I'M MEETING THESE GUYS, PEDRO GONçALVES
AND Tó TRIPS, KNOWN AS DEAD COMBO,
ONE OF THE BEST AND MOST INTERESTING BANDS IN LISBON.
YOU MAY KNOW THEIR MUSIC FROM SUCH SHOWS AS THIS ONE.
♪♪
HOW IS THE MUSIC BUSINESS IN LISBON RIGHT NOW?
I MEAN...
IT'S GETTING BETTER,
BUT IT'S DIFFICULT TO MAKE A LIVING OUT OF IT.
IT'S A SMALL COUNTRY. THERE'S NOT THAT MUCH MONEY.
SO PEOPLE DON'T BUY THAT MANY RECORDS.
TO GET TO THE TOP 20,
IF YOU SELL IN A WEEK 250 RECORDS.
DAMN.
WELL, THAT'S A GOOD INVESTMENT.
YEAH, YOU JUST--
BUY 250 RECORDS.
YOU BUY 'EM YOURSELF.
YEAH.
I KNOW PEOPLE WHO HAVE DONE IT.
YOU KNOW PEOPLE WHO HAVE DONE IT.
ALL RIGHT, WHAT ELSE DO WE HAVE IN CANS THAT'S GOOD?
PORTUGUESE SARDINES SERVED ON PORTUGUESE BREAD.
MMM. THAT'S AMAZING.
(woman speaking Portuguese) TUNA ROE.
NICE.
TUNA ROE SERVED WITH SWEET POTATOES
AND HORSE MACKEREL.
THAT OIL, BY THE WAY, IS PURE GOLD.
MMM.
THAT'S GOOD. THAT'S LIKE TOTAL CRACK.
OH, MAN.
ALSO AMAZING.
BUT I GOTTA ASK YOU, DO YOU HAVE HIPSTERS HERE?
LIKE, DO YOU HAVE THESE PEOPLE WALKING AROUND
WITH (bleep) SOCKS ON THEIR HEAD?
(Tó) RIGHT.
LIKE BRAD PITT, YOU KNOW? THEY LOOK LIKE SMURFS.
AH, YEAH.
THEY GOT A (bleep) SOCK ON THEIR HEAD.
FORTUNATELY, WE HAVE VERY FEW.
VERY FEW.
YEAH.
YOU REALLY GOTTA STOP THAT (bleep).
SOCK-HEADS. I HATE THEM.
SO WHAT'S THE BEST TREND
THAT MUSIC IN LISBON IS GOING?
WELL, IN THE '80s
THERE WAS A LOT OF, LIKE, ROCK BANDS
INCORPORATING "PORTUGUESE" INFLUENCES INTO THE MUSIC...
MM-HMM.
AND THEN SUDDENLY IN THE '90s,
PORTUGUESE MUSIC WENT... (croaks)
YOU KNOW, IT COMPLETELY DIED.
AND NOW IT'S, LIKE, COMING BACK.
LIKE SOME OF THE CHEFS WE'RE GOING TO MEET,
DEAD COMBO IS TAKING THE OLD
AND MAKING IT NEW.
THE COUNTRY'S GOING THROUGH THIS CRISIS,
BUT AT THE SAME TIME, EVERYBODY'S VALUING
THE NICE THINGS THAT WE HAVE, LIKE THE FOOD, THE MUSIC...
YEAH.
THIS--LIKE THIS PLACE, FOR EXAMPLE.
THAT'S IMPORTANT TO YOU.
YEAH, OF COURSE, VERY IMPORTANT.
♪♪
EVERYBODY SAYS THE SAME THING
WHEN YOU TELL THEM YOU'RE GOING TO LISBON--
ONE THING YOU GOTTA DO
IF YOU'RE GONNA DO IT LIKE A LOCAL,
A LOW-RENT FAVORITE,
A GUILTY PLEASURE, AN EARLY MORNING BUZZ.
CALL IT WHAT YOU LIKE.
(Anthony) LET'S GO.
(humming)
A GINJINHA,
A JOINT SELLING A DRINK OF THE SAME NAME,
A HOLE IN THE WALL
SURROUNDED BY LAYABOUTS AND CHARACTERS.
THESE PEOPLE LOOK LIKE SERIOUS DRINKERS.
GINJINHA,
A LIQUEUR MADE FROM MORELLO CHERRIES.
THEY'VE BEEN SELLING THIS STUFF FOR 70 YEARS--
SAME SPOT, SAME RECIPE.
(humming)
OH, YEAH, I'LL HAVE ONE OF THOSE.
THE ONLY OPTION--
WITH A CHERRY OR WITHOUT?
AND WATCH OUT, IT GOES DOWN SMOOTH...
THAT'LL STRAIGHTEN YOUR (bleep) OUT GOOD.
BUT PACKS A VICIOUS PUNCH.
I'M GONNA HAVE TO HAVE ANOTHER ONE OF THOSE.
YEAH. MMM.
EXCELLENT. MERCí.
THAT'S SOME GOOD (bleep).
OOH. THERE WAS SOME ALCOHOL
IN THAT LAST CHERRY SOMEWHERE.
CANCEL THE MEAL SCENE. I'M GOING DOWN.
♪♪
NOW PLEASANTLY DRUNK AND STUPID ENOUGH TO CONSIDER
THAT ENDORSEMENT DEAL FROM ANTABUSE,
I STAGGER INTO THE STREET ONLY DIMLY AWARE
THAT I'VE GOT A BIG LUNCH AHEAD OF ME.
WHAT WILL THIS CITY LOOK LIKE IN 20 YEARS?
BECAUSE GOOD SENSE WOULD DICTATE--
FILL THE PLACE WITH UGLY BUILDINGS,
MAKE IT MORE FUNCTIONAL, MAKE IT MORE LIKE EVERYBODY ELSE.
NOT THAT WAY.
YOU DIDN'T EVEN HAVE TO THINK ABOUT THAT.
THERE'S A CONSERVATIVE SIDE TO THE PORTUGUESE SOUL
THAT STILL FINDS THE SAME LISBON, THE SAME COBBLE STREETS,
THE SAME TRAMS GOING AROUND.
AND THE FOOD?
THERE'S A GENERATION LIKE JOSé--
THESE YOUNG CHAPS ARE KEEPING THE TRADITION,
BUT THEY ARE THINKING AHEAD.
JOSé AVILLEZ IS ONE OF A FEW CHEFS IN LISBON
EXPLORING NEW WAYS OF LOOKING AT TRADITIONAL DISHES.
HE'S WORKED WITH SOME OF THE WORLD'S GREAT CHEFS
AND BROUGHT WHAT HE LEARNED AND WAS EXPOSED TO ABROAD
BACK HOME TO CANTINHO DO AVILLEZ.
MY GOOD FRIEND TOZé
THAT MET ME WHEN I WAS, LIKE, 4 YEARS OLD.
TOZé BRITO IS A LEGENDARY MUSIC PRODUCER,
COMPOSER, MUSICIAN, AND RACONTEUR.
HE STILL RECALLS THE TIME WHEN ARTISTIC EXPRESSION
WAS CENSORED BY SALAZAR'S POLICE STATE.
I WAS IN THE TOP--TOP BAND IN PORTUGAL IN THOSE DAYS.
RIGHT.
BECAUSE WE HAD KIND OF A POLITICAL HISTORY
OF BEING AGAINST THE REGIME,
WE HAD A LOT OF RECORDS THAT WERE FORBIDDEN
BY THE POLITICAL POLICE AND TAKEN OUT OF SHOPS.
I DECIDED THERE WAS NO WAY THEY WERE GONNA GET ME
IN THE ARMY FIGHTING A WAR
THAT I DIDN'T HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH.
SO WHAT DID YOU DO?
I DESERTED. I JUST SAID, "I'M GOING." AND I WENT TO ENGLAND
TILL THE REVOLUTION CAME, AND I CAME BACK.
THAT LOOKS GOOD. WHAT'S THAT?
SOME GREEN BEANS IN TEMPURA.
THIS IS A VERY TYPICAL PORTUGUESE APPETIZER.
PORTUGAL INVENTED TEMPURA.
MM-HMM.
THE JAPANESE HAVE A LOT TO THANK YOU FOR.
THIS IS ONE OF MY FAVORITE THINGS IN THE WORLD.
MORCELA-- BLOOD SAUSAGE,
SOMETHING I ALWAYS LIKE,
THIS ONE PARTICULARLY GOOD.
BEAUTIFUL. LOVE IT.
MMM.
OH, THAT LOOKS GOOD.
OH, NICE.
PIGS TROTTERS OR FEET--
CLASSIC PEASANT FOOD
AND A PERFECT BLEND OF TEXTURES--
MEATY, CRISPY, FATTY, STICKY.
THERE WAS A TIME THAT THERE WAS NO WAY
WE COULD THROW IT AWAY, YOU KNOW?
AND WE HAD TO INVENT DISHES WITH ALL OF THAT.
SO HOW TRADITIONAL ARE THESE DISHES?
VERY TRADITIONAL IN PORTUGAL.
I MEAN, THIS IS A PRETTY REFINED VERSION OF THEM.
THESE ARE REFINED VERSIONS OF THEM.
PEOPLE REALLY HANG ONTO THOSE FLAVORS FEROCIOUSLY HERE.
PEOPLE STILL GO FOR THE BASICS, YOU KNOW?
SOMETHING OLD, SOMETHING NEW.
MY INTERPRETATION OF A GOLDEN EGG...
WOW.
WITH CèPES AND CHEESE.
NICE.
AND DESSERT.
OH.
HAZELNUT ICE CREAM, HAZELNUT WHIPPED CREAM,
AND HAZELNUTS.
NICE. MMM.
MY COUNTRY HAS BEEN POOR
FOR DECADES AND DECADES AND DECADES.
AND IT'S--AT THE MOMENT IT'S AGAIN GOING THROUGH A CRISIS,
A HUGE CRISIS.
PORTUGAL IS ACTUALLY ALMOST DESERTIFIED IN THE INTERIOR.
YOU KNOW, IT'S-- NOBODY LIVING THERE.
IT'S AMAZING HOW BEAUTIFUL IT IS
AND THE POTENTIAL THE COUNTRY'S GOT,
BUT NOBODY'S THERE.
NO ONE'S THERE. WH-WHY?
BECAUSE APART FROM AGRICULTURAL LIFE,
THERE'S NOTHING MUCH YOU CAN DO THERE.
AND THAT'S BECAUSE OF E.U. REGULATIONS?
YEAH.
AT THE BEGINNING OF THE '80s, THE MONEY STARTED POURING
FROM THE EUROPEAN COMMUNITIES, SAYING, OKAY,
AGRICULTURALLY YOU'VE GOT TO STOP PRODUCING ORANGES
OR TOMATOES OR OLIVES OR WHATEVER,
BECAUSE THE ITALIANS ARE DOING IT, THE FRENCH ARE DOING IT.
SO THEY WERE PAYING YOU NOT TO GROW THINGS OR FISH.
ABSOLUTELY.
THEY PAID US TO STOP PRODUCING
WHAT WE'VE BEEN DOING FOR CENTURIES.
AND SUDDENLY THERE WAS NO PRODUCTION
AND THERE WAS NO INDUSTRY.
WELL, LET'S GET THIS STRAIGHT.
WHAT WINE YOU HAVE IS GREAT, CHEESE--
WINE IS-- THE WINE IS UNBELIEVABLE.
CHEESE--AWESOME.
CHEESE-- BRILLIANT.
OLIVE OIL.
OLIVE OIL.
OLIVES. SEAFOOD--SOME OF THE BEST IN THE WORLD.
SEAFOOD.
JUST FOR INTERNAL CONSUMPTION,
BECAUSE WE DON'T HAVE ENOUGH TO EXPORT.
BUT YOU COULD.
GREAT MEAL. TRUE TO YOUR ROOTS.
THAT'S GOOD.
IT'S REALLY NICE.
FOR AROUND 30 EUROS.
NO (bleep).
THAT'S GOOD NEWS.
CRAZY.
I'LL DRINK TO THAT.
AND IF YOU WANT TO KNOW WHAT I REALLY THINK ABOUT LISBON,
VISIT MY WEB SITE AT...
♪♪
(dogs barking)
NO!
(trolley bell dings)
HORSESHOES AND HAND GRENADES,
TOGETHER, SORT OF, IN ONE GAME.
(Anthony) "CHIN-QUILLO."
(man) "CHIN-KEEL-IO"
"CHIN-KEEL."
CHINQUILHO--
LAST BASTION OF A TRADITIONAL GAME,
MOSTLY FOR OLD DUDES THESE DAYS.
HOW MANY PEOPLE IN THIS CLUB?
A HUNDRED.
A HUNDRED?
YEAH, A HUNDRED.
SO IT'S PRETTY POPULAR.
IT'S POPULAR.
WHAT DOES THE WINNER GET? IS THERE MONEY INVOLVED?
NO.
THERE'S NO GAMBLING ON THIS GAME?
(speaking Portuguese)
ONLY FOR A BOTTLE OF WINE. NOTHING MORE.
WINE.
WINE.
I'M HERE WITH ANOTHER CHEF
WHO'S BEEN MAKING A LOT OF NOISE IN LISBON,
YUGOSLAVIAN TRANSPLANT LJUBOMIR STANISIC.
I'VE HEARD HE'S GOT A COMPETITIVE STREAK,
BUT CAN HE PLAY THIS GAME?
THESE THINGS LOOK HEAVY. ARE THEY HEAVY?
(man) A LITTLE BIT.
A LITTLE BIT.
3 KILOS.
3, 4 KILOS.
THAT'S MONSTROUS.
INTO THE CHINQUILHO COURT--
LIKE THUNDERDOME, ONLY NOT REALLY.
(man) OKAY, YOU CHOOSE YOUR DISKS.
THESE METAL PLATES WEIGH ABOUT 7 POUNDS EACH--
NOT FOR THE WEAK.
BUT SENHOR SOSA HERE PUSHING 80 IS A PRO.
HE SLINGS THESE THINGS AROUND LIKE TIDDLYWINKS.
HUH? (laughing)
(bleep)
HOW HARD COULD IT BE?
(Anthony) WAIT A MINUTE.
IT'S HEAVY.
ANSWER-- PRETTY (bleep) HARD.
HOLY CRAP.
3 POINTS FOR KNOCKING OVER THE PEG,
FIRST ONE TO 25 WINS.
LUBO AND I CHOOSE TEAMS.
OKAY, YOUR CHOICE-- YOUR TWO PLAYERS.
UH...
(laughter)
YOU READY?
LET'S DO IT.
GOOD CHOICE FOR YOUR PLAYER.
(laughing)
♪♪
SO WHAT DO YOU THINK? IT'S CHALLENGING, NO?
YEAH, IT'S HARD.
AS I LIKE TO SAY AROUND THE OFFICE,
OLD AGE AND CORRUPTION BEATS YOUTH AND BEAUTY EVERY TIME.
OH, MAN.
(groans)
GOD, THAT GUY'S GOOD.
I'M CLOSING IN ON THAT (bleep), I'M TELLING YA.
(whispering) I USED HIS DISK.
(conversation in Portuguese)
SEE, NOW HE'S ALL (bleep).
SORRY, POPS, I MUST'VE GOTTEN CONFUSED.
(speaking indistinctly)
(laughter)
TIED UP AT 24, NO THANKS TO ME...
IT'S A NAIL-BITER, FOLKS.
NEXT TEAM TO SCORE WINS.
CLOSE.
IT'S A LOT OF PRESSURE.
(Lubo) TAKE YOUR TIME.
DAMN.
WILL I LEAVE THIS GAME WITHOUT A SINGLE POINT?
NOT TO PUT TOO MUCH PRESSURE ON YOU,
BUT THIS COULD BRING VICTORY TO YOUR TEAM.
♪♪
(laughter and cheers)
I'M GONNA PRACTICE, AND I'LL BE BACK.
I'LL BUILD A LITTLE COURT IN MY BACKYARD.
(laughs)
(speaking Portuguese)
(laughing)
AT HIS RESTAURANT 100 MANEIRAS
OR A HUNDRED WAYS,
LUBO BRINGS HIS YUGOSLAVIAN ROOTS TO BEAR
ON TRADITIONAL PORTUGUESE DISHES.
THIS IS GONNA BE GOOD. ASK 'EM IF THEY'RE HUNGRY.
(speaking Portuguese)
THEY BETTER BE. THIS IS A GAME I CAN WIN.
(all laughing)
I'VE BROUGHT ALONG THE KIDS FROM THE CHINQUILHO
TO FIND OUT JUST HOW OPEN TO A NEW LOOK
AT THESE TRADITIONAL DISHES THEY MIGHT BE.
(man) ALL RIGHT.
(Anthony) THEY LOOK, LIKE,
COMPLETELY WEIRDED OUT.
(woman laughs)
MONICA IS LUBO'S WIFE.
WHAT IS IT?
CODFISH TRIPE.
MMM.
OOH, THAT'S TASTY.
LET'S SEE IF IT'S RIGHT.
COD TRIPE--
DRIED THEN DEEP-FRIED TILL CRISPY DELICIOUS.
THE CLOTHESLINE SIMILAR TO SOMETHING I'VE SEEN
AT ALINEA IN CHICAGO.
WE ARE JOKING BECAUSE THIS IS NORMALLY
THE INTIMATE PART OF THE CLOTHES.
UNDERPANTS.
YEAH, UNDERPANTS. (laughing)
THESE ARE GAME PIES WITH TRUFFLES
AND SAO JORGE CHEESE.
THIS IS A PASTRY AND INSIDE IS GAME.
YEAH. GAME, YEAH.
WHAT--WHICH GAME?
RABBIT.
OH, NICE, VERY PORTUGUESE...
YES.
VERY TYPICAL.
HOW DO YOU SAY "RABBIT" IN PORTUGUESE?
COELHO.
"CO-ELLO."
"CO-HUELL-IO"
"CO-HUELLO."
"CO-HUELL-EE-O"
OH, NO, FORGET IT.
(laughter)
WHILE I MAY NOT BE FAMILIAR
WITH THE PORTUGUESE PRONUNCIATION,
IN MY LANGUAGE IT'S...
MMM.
DELICIOUS.
I LOVE THIS ONE.
WHOA, WHAT'S THAT?
HORSE...
HORSE.
HEART.
HEART?
BULL LIVER.
BULL, RIGHT?
AND PORK BRAIN.
IS THIS TRADITIONAL?
THIS IS VERY TRADITIONAL.
VERY.
MMM. OH, THAT'S AWESOME.
YEAH?
SO YOUNG CUSTOMERS TOTALLY LIKE THIS?
NO. THIS--
NO. YOUNG ONES, NO.
(speaking Portuguese)
THE HORSE THING, YOU KNOW, YOU START TO RUN INTO...
YES.
THAT LIKE, "OH, THE POOR HORSEY."
YOU KNOW...
WE HAD, UH, PART OF THE SEX OF THE BULL.
I DON'T KNOW-- HOW DO YOU CALL IT?
THE TESTICLES.
TESTICLES. THANK YOU.
WE HAVE TO PUT IT, LIKE, UH, "BULLFIGHT MEAT."
RIGHT.
YOU KNOW?
PEOPLE DIDN'T KNOW WHAT IT WAS,
AND THEY LOVED IT.
SEE--OH, YEAH.
AND THEN WE SAID...
YOU TELL 'EM.
(gasps) OH, SHOCKED.
BUT ALL, UH, ALL PORTUGUESE, UH...
THEY LIKE IT.
OOH, IT'S LIKE, WOW, YOU KNOW?
MMM. VERY GOOD.
MM-HMM.
IT'S VERY DELICATE.
IT'S VERY DELICATE, YEAH,
LIKE THE TESTICLES.
(laughter)
OOH. OH, THAT LOOKS GOOD.
THIS IS VERY TRADITIONAL.
(speaking Portuguese)
YEAH, HE'S HAPPY ABOUT THIS.
(laughs)
CABRITO-- WHO WOULD NOT LOVE THIS?
YOUNG MILK-FED GOAT ROASTED AND SERVED ON RICE
MADE WITH ITS LIVER
AND A MAGICAL STOCK MADE FROM TONGUE, MUSHROOM,
AND CHICKEN.
WOW, IT'S AWESOME-LOOKING.
MMM.
THAT IS SHOCKINGLY GOOD. OH, YEAH.
IT'S ONE OF THE MOST REQUESTED DISHES--
YOUNG, OLD, EVERYONE.
THEY LIKE IT A LOT.
(speaking Portuguese)
YOU SATISFIED A VERY TOUGH DEMOGRAPHIC HERE.
OH, YES.
THESE ORNERY OLD DUDES-- THEY WERE TOUGH.
(all laughing)
♪♪
♪♪
(Henrique) A BIT COOLER THE LAST COUPLE DAYS.
IT'S NICE. COMPARED TO NEW YORK, THIS IS TROPICAL.
WANT TO GET THE LAY OF THE LAND, SO TO SPEAK,
FIND OUT WHAT'S GOOD IN A NEW CITY?
FIND THE LOCAL MARKET.
WOW.
THIS IS THE OLD MARKET.
THIS IS A RETAIL MARKET FOR REGULAR PEOPLE TO SHOP IN.
YEAH. YEAH.
AND IF POSSIBLE, BRING A CHEF ALONG...
THAT'S INTERESTING.
YEAH, THAT'S BLACK SWORDFISH.
IT'S GOT A LOT OF BONES. IT'S NOT AN EASY FISH TO EAT.
LIKE HENRIQUE Sá PESSOA...
COD TONGUES, WHICH IS ANOTHER DELICACY HERE.
HOST OF HIS OWN WEEKLY COOKING SHOW.
(speaking Portuguese) NORMALLY THEY OPEN UP AT 6:00,
WHICH IS WHERE ALL THE FISH COME IN.
AND THEN THEY GO UP UNTIL 2:00, 3:00 IN THE AFTERNOON,
AND THEN THAT'S IT.
BUT YOU SEE MORE OLDER PEOPLE.
RIGHT.
THAT'S THE WAY THEY USED TO BUY IT.
YEAH.
THE GOOD THING ABOUT THIS MARKET IS THAT YOU CAN STILL INTERACT
WITH THE ACTUAL SUPPLIERS.
YOU HAVE A BIGGER CONNECTION WITH THE PRODUCT,
'CAUSE THEY KNOW WHAT THEY'RE SELLING.
RIGHT. RIGHT, A SUPERMARKET-- THEY HAVE NO IDEA
WHERE IT CAME FROM OR ANYTHING.
A SUPERMARKET--YOU'RE JUST BUYING PACKAGED THINGS,
AND YOU DON'T KNOW EXACTLY WHAT'S GOING ON.
YEAH, BUT THIS IS SORT OF A DISAPPEARING, UH...
YEAH.
IT'S MORE AND MORE MOVING TOWARDS A SUPERMARKET MODEL.
UNFORTUNATELY.
LOCAL FISH...
(Henrique) WE'VE GOT A BIG--
BIG SWORDFISH THERE. WOW.
WHAT IS THAT?
(speaking Portuguese)
WHICH IS HAKE WITH THEIR TAIL IN THEIR MOUTH.
SAUSAGE, CHEESE...
HOLY CRAP, IT LOOKS-- I WANT TO SEE THESE.
AN IMPRESSIVE VARIETY OF PRODUCE.
STAPLE PORTUGUESE VEGETABLES--
CABBAGE, KALE, OF COURSE...
TOMATOES...
SWEET POTATO.
SWEET POTATO, TURNIP TOPS.
NORMALLY IN A LOT OF COUNTRIES THEY CHUCK THIS OUT.
RIGHT.
A LITTLE BITTER?
VERY BITTER.
SOUNDS GOOD. I LIKE BITTER.
THEN OBVIOUSLY COD.
GOTTA HAVE THAT.
WE GOTTA HAVE THE COD.
THE NATIONAL DISH OF PORTUGAL PROBABLY BACALHAU--
SALTED, DRIED CODFISH.
STRANGELY ENOUGH, NEITHER THE FISH
NOR THE PRODUCT IS INDIGENOUS TO PORTUGAL,
BUT THEY EAT A LOT OF IT AND LOVE IT DEARLY.
BEFORE COOKING YOU SOAK IT IN WATER
AND REHYDRATE IT.
IN RESTAURANTS,
YOU HAVE TO BUY YOUR COD ALREADY PRESOAKED.
YOU CAN'T BUY IT LIKE THAT.
THIS IS ONLY FOR HOUSE CONSUMPTION.
THAT'S AN E.U. THING.
IT'S AN E.U. THING.
WHAT WAS THEIR THINKING? I MEAN, THERE'S NOTHING
LEFT ALIVE IN A PIECE OF DRIED, SALTED FISH.
WHAT'S THE PROBLEM?
THE CHEFS WERE REALLY PISSED OFF.
OH, THAT'S HEARTBREAKING.
I KNOW.
NOW I'M USING A LOT OF THE CHEAPER FISHES,
LIKE MACKEREL, SARDINES,
FISHES THAT FISHERMEN USED TO THROW OUT IN THE SEA.
TRASH FISH.
YEAH, 'CAUSE I THINK THEY'RE FULL OF FLAVOR,
AND I CAN MAKE DISHES THAT ARE MORE AFFORDABLE TO SELL.
YOU KNOW, I THINK EVERYBODY'S KINDA HEADED IN THAT DIRECTION.
YEAH.
♪♪
OOH, THAT LOOKS GOOD.
NOW I'M AT ALMA,
HENRIQUE'S PLACE,
WHERE HE STARTS ME OFF WITH A CHEAP
BUT DELICIOUS MACKEREL.
MMM.
THIS IS NICE.
IT'S GREAT.
A YOUNG CITY OR AN OLD CITY, I MEAN, POPULATION-WISE?
I MEAN, 'CAUSE IT'S FAMOUS FOR CLUBS AND MUSIC SCENE.
THERE'S THAT BLEND BETWEEN THE OLD AND THE NEW,
WHICH IS NICE.
YOU'LL FIND A LOT OF OLD PEOPLE STILL LIVING IN HOUSES
NEXT TO YOUNGER PEOPLE, REAL YOUNG PEOPLE,
BECAUSE THAT'S THE NEW, TRENDY PLACES.
RIGHT.
WITH ME IS ACTOR AND COMEDIAN Zé DIOGO QUINTELA.
WHAT'S FUNNY TO PEOPLE? WHAT ARE THEY--
RIGHT NOW THERE'S A LOT OF FUN BEING HAD WITH THE CRISIS IN--
AH, SO LAUGHING AT YOUR OWN PAIN.
YEAH, BUT--BUT THAT'S-- THAT'S UNIVERSAL, I THINK.
UM, I DON'T KNOW THAT THE FRENCH AND ITALIANS DO THAT SO MUCH.
I MEAN, COMEDY'S MOSTLY (bleep) JOKES.
THEY DO A LOT OF THOSE, EH?
I MEAN, THAT'S FUNNY EVERYWHERE.
YEAH.
IT'S WORKED FOR ME FOR SEVEN YEARS,
LET ME TELL YA.
BUT THERE'S ONE THING YOU CAN'T JOKE ABOUT IN PORTUGAL.
MAKE FUN OF SOMEBODY'S SOCCER CLUB.
EVEN I KNOW NOT TO DO THAT.
(laughs)
OOH, THAT LOOKS GOOD.
(woman speaking indistinctly)
WITH SWEET POTATO PURéE AND BOK CHOY.
LOOK AT THAT. MMM. WHOA.
NOW WE HAVE THE SEMI-SALTED COD.
WITH CHICKPEA PURéE.
BEAUTIFUL.
AT LAST--BACALHAU.
SOME SAY THERE ARE MORE THAN 365 WAYS
TO COOK THIS STUFF,
ONE FOR EVERY DAY OF THE YEAR.
OTHERS SAY MORE. WHATEVER THE NUMBER,
THIS INGREDIENT IS INTEGRAL TO THE PORTUGUESE TABLE.
THE FUNNY THING IS THAT THIS IS THE MOST TRADITIONAL DISH
IN PORTUGAL, AND WE DON'T HAVE THEM IN OUR WATERS.
RIGHT.
WE WENT AFTER OUR NATIONAL FOOD.
MMM. THAT'S GOOD.
I LOVE IT.
SO OBVIOUSLY YOU WEREN'T AROUND DURING SALAZAR DAYS.
I WASN'T.
RIGHT.
SO IF YOU'RE YOUNG AND 22 IN LISBON,
IS LIFE GOOD?
IT'S HARD TO GET A JOB AND TO KEEP ONE.
MM-HMM.
BUT IF YOU CAN GET A JOB THAT CAN SUPPORT YOU,
LIFE IS PEACHY.
THE OTHER DAY I HEARD SOMEONE SAY ON THE NEWS
WE ARE THE ONLY COUNTRY THAT HOSTED A G20 MEETING,
AND THERE WERE NO RIOTS IN THE STREET.
THERE WERE NO WINDOWS SMASHED AND NOT LIKE IN GREECE.
THEY'RE NOT LIKE GREECE.
THAT'S ONE THING THAT OUR POLITICIANS KEEP SAYING
TO EVERYBODY IN EUROPE, "WE'RE NOT LIKE THE GREEKS.
WE'RE GONNA PAY UP. WE'RE GONNA PAY UP."
(laughs)
"PLEASE LEND US THE MONEY."
MMM.
♪♪
YOU KNOW HOW THERE'S ALWAYS SOMETHING
THAT PEOPLE NEED
WHEN THEY, SAY, HAVE HAD A FEW COCKTAILS?
YOU KNOW, IT'S LATE IN THE DAY, AND MAYBE YOU HAD
A LITTLE MORE TO DRINK THAN MIGHT HAVE BEEN ADVISABLE,
AND YOU NEED SOMETHING TO SOAK IT ALL UP,
MAKE YOU FEEL BETTER ABOUT YOURSELF?
UH, BIFANA?
YES.
BEER?
IN LISBON, THAT MAGICAL DISH
IS SOMETHING CALLED A BIFANA...
YES, GIVE ME YOUR HOT PORKY LOVE.
A MUCH-LOVED CURE-ALL IN THE FORM OF A PORK SANDWICH.
GREASY PORK, THE GREASIER THE BETTER,
LOW-RENT MUSTARD,
A TOUCH OF CHILI OIL AND A BUN--
OH, YEAH, AND A COLD BEER.
TOTALLY AWESOME.
SOMEHOW I KNEW ALL ALONG
THAT WE WOULD MEET IN THE END,
AND NOW FINALLY WE ARE TOGETHER.
THAT'S (bleep) GOOD.
WHY IS IT SO OFTEN IT ALL COMES DOWN TO THIS?
PORK AND A PIECE OF BREAD--
PERFECTION, REALLY.
I COULD DO ANOTHER ONE OF THOSE EASY.
COULD I STAND THE SHAME AND SELF-LOATHING?
YES. YES, I THINK I CAN.
THAT WAS AWESOME.
(cheers and applause)
Closed Captions provided by Scripps Networks, LLC.
Captioned by Closed Captioning Services, Inc.