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Captioned by Closed Captioning Services, Inc.
(Anthony) OVER THE YEARS I'VE KNOWN A LOT OF DOMINICANS
IN NEW YORK CITY.
WASHINGTON HEIGHTS
IS LIKE A LITTLE PIECE OF THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC.
FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO HAVEN'T BEEN THERE,
IT'S MAYBE DIFFICULT TO IDENTIFY
A SINGLE UNIQUE FEATURE OF THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC.
WE KNOW IT'S IN THE CARIBBEAN SOMEWHERE.
AND THEY SPEAK SPANISH, DON'T THEY?
(speaking Spanish)
DOMINICANS THEMSELVES, OF COURSE,
HAVE NO SUCH PROBLEM. THEY KNOW WHERE HOME IS.
PARADISE.
AND THEY KNOW WHAT THEY MISS.
TOSTONES.
MANGú.
SANCOCHO.
I REALLY MISS IT. I WISH I COULD BE THERE NOW.
(laughter)
(man) AAH, YEAH!
THAT'S RIGHT!
I WRITE. I TRAVEL.
I EAT, AND I'M HUNGRY FOR MORE.
♪ OOH, YOU'VE GOT TO ♪
♪ GET LOST ♪
♪ NO RESERVATIONS ♪
♪♪
BOY, I SMELL SOMETHING GOOD.
THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC IS ONE OF THOSE PLACES
I HADN'T BEEN YET, WHERE EVERY YEAR I DIDN'T GO
I HEARD FROM MY FRIENDS IN NEW YORK,
"WHY HAVEN'T YOU BEEN TO MY COUNTRY?"
(speaking Spanish)
SENOR. GENTLEMEN.
CLOSE TO THE U.S.
AND SHARING THE ISLAND OF HISPANIOLA WITH HAITI,
THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC HAS SEEN ITS FAIR SHARE
OF GOOD TIMES AND BAD.
MOST VACATIONERS KNOW IT
SIMPLY AS AN ISLAND OF PRISTINE WHITE BEACHES,
ALL-INCLUSIVE RESORTS, TROPICAL DRINKS,
AND LIBERAL ATTITUDES TOWARDS CASH FOR SEX.
HOW DO THEY GET THE BEER SO COLD HERE?
IT'S REALLY UNEARTHLY.
SANTO DOMINGO-- THE CAPITAL,
THE LARGEST CITY IN THE CARIBBEAN
WITH 4 MILLION PEOPLE.
LIKE ANY CAPITAL, THE BEST AND WORST OF THE COUNTRY
COMES TO TOWN.
FOOD-WISE IT'S MOSTLY THE BEST WE'RE TALKING ABOUT.
MY MOTHER USED TO MAKE THE BEST SANCOCHO OF THE AREA.
A MIX OF SPANISH, AFRICAN, ORIGINAL CARIB--
FLAVORS FROM THE NEW WORLD AND THE OLD TRADE ROUTES.
♪♪
WRAP IT UP, BOYS.
(car alarm wails, car horn honks)
SANTO DOMINGO CAN BE HELLISH TRAFFIC,
BUT IN THE HEART OF THE CITY,
THE ZONA COLONIAL IS A BIT MORE RELAXED.
IT'S THE OLDEST EUROPEAN CITY IN THE AMERICAS,
CRAMMED WITH CATHEDRALS, OLD FORT WALLS,
MONUMENTS, AND COBBLESTONE STREETS,
THE KIND OF STUFF YOU WANT TO TAKE PICTURES OF.
BUT IT'S REFRESHINGLY FREE OF T-SHIRT SHOPS,
FAST-FOOD NOOKS, STARBUCKS, AND THE LIKE.
PEOPLE ACTUALLY LIVE HERE.
AT ONE TIME POST-COLUMBUS,
THIS WAS THE SEAT OF SPANISH POWER IN THE NEW WORLD.
THE COUNTRY WAS FOR A LONG, LONG TIME
THE VERY PICTURE OF THE CLASSIC BANANA REPUBLIC.
YOU HAD RAFAEL TRUJILLO,
A U.S.-SUPPORTED DICTATOR WITH A 30-YEAR RECORD
OF SPECTACULAR BRUTALITY AND PERVERSION.
IN 1965
WE SENT IN THE MARINES.
HOW'D THINGS TURN OUT?
THAT'S FOR DOMINICANS
ALL THESE YEARS LATER TO DECIDE.
THERE ARE ELECTIONS IN A FEW WEEKS.
SOMEBODY NAMED DANILO
RUNNING AGAINST SOMEBODY NAMED "PAPA."
WHAT DO I KNOW?
WHAT I DO KNOW, 'CAUSE EVERYBODY SAYS SO,
IS THAT MESóN D'BARI IN ZONA COLONIAL
IS WHERE TO GO FOR CAREFUL, AFFECTIONATE,
AND DELICIOUS PREPARATIONS OF BELOVED DOMINICAN STANDARDS.
JUAN BASANTA IS A FILMMAKER AND THE SON
OF THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC'S FIRST FEMALE VICE PRESIDENT.
(Anthony) FIRST TIME HERE,
AND PEOPLE HAVE BEEN ON MY CASE TO COME HERE.
PEOPLE WOULD COME UP TO ME IN THE STREET AND SAY,
"DUDE, WHAT'S UP? WHY HAVEN'T YOU BEEN TO MY COUNTRY?"
(laughs)
HOW LONG HAS THIS PLACE BEEN HERE?
WELL, THE PLACE HAS BEEN HERE, OH, 33 YEARS ALREADY.
THROUGH A LOT OF DIFFERENT GOVERNMENTS
YEAH. JOURNALISTS COME HERE. POLITICIANS COME HERE
SO WAIT A MINUTE. YOU'RE SAYING POLITICIANS COME HERE,
AND YET ARTISTS HANG OUT HERE?
THAT'S--I MEAN, WHERE I COME FROM,
ARTISTS, UH, ARE SEEN AS SOURCES OF SEDITION
AND ANTI-STATE THINKING.
WE UNDERSTAND THE POLITICOS ARE GREAT ACTORS.
(laughs)
EMPANADAS AND LONGANIZA--
THIS YOU HAVE TO HAVE.
WOW.
I'M GONNA NEED SOMETHING TO DRINK WITH THAT.
YEAH, SURE.
OH, SH--SORRY. WE GOTTA GIVE IT BACK.
WE SHOULDN'T ALLOW THIS TO HAPPEN.
LET ME EXPLAIN SOMETHING ABOUT BEER IN THE D.R.
THERE'S THE RIGHT WAY, AND THERE'S EVERYTHING ELSE.
THE RIGHT WAY IS LIKE THIS,
ON THE VERGE OF FREEZING,
IN A FROSTY "WEDDING DRESS" AS THEY CALL IT,
NOT SLUSHY, NOT FROZEN ITSELF,
BUT RIGHT THERE.
SANTé. WELCOME TO THE D.R.
LONGANIZA?
DEEP-FRIED MEAT. LONGANIZA--IT HAS A--
IT'S PORK, BUT IT'S ALSO SEASONED
WITH BITTER ORANGE AND A LOT OF OREGANO.
THIS IS THE DOMINICAN PIES.
THIS IS HELL, SPECIFICALLY.
GOOD.
AND IT'S DONE-- THIS PIE--
THE CUSTARD IS DONE WITH YUCA.
RIGHT.
AND THAT'S-- WHAT'S THAT OTHER THING?
JAIBA, RIGHT?
JAIBA. CANGREJO. OH, MY GOD, WHERE DID YOU GET THAT ONE FROM?
MMM. OOH, THAT'S GOOD.
SO FOR YOUR DOMINICAN FRIENDS IN NEW YORK,
OH, THEY ARE.
SO ELECTION COMING UP-- IN THE '60s,
YOU WERE TALKING AN ABSOLUTELY TITANIC DIFFERENCE
BETWEEN WHO WAS IN POWER AND WHO WANTED THE POWER.
WELL, ACTUALLY, AT THAT TIME,
MY UNCLE WAS THE PRESIDENT, JUAN BOSCH,
RIGHT.
ONE THAT THE STATES WAS NOT TO TERRIBLY UNHAPPY ABOUT,
BEFORE THAT, THE '61, WAS TRUJILLO'S ERA.
MM-HMM.
THE KIND OF GUY WE GENERALLY SUPPORTED THROUGH LATIN AMERICA.
BUT AS I UNDERSTAND IT,
HIS BEHAVIOR STARTED TO GET EMBARRASSING
EVEN FOR US, YOU KNOW?
HE'S TOSSING PEOPLE TO SHARKS AND (bleep), RIGHT?
IT WAS NOT NICE, BUT IT WAS WHAT WE HAD.
I MEAN, GENERALLY SPEAKING,
YEAH. YEAH. YOU'RE HERE.
(laughs) WELL, THANK YOU.
THE HOUSE SPECIAL-- STEWED GOAT,
THE ANIMAL FED OREGANO FOR MUCH OF HIS LIFE.
OH, THAT'S A ***.
YEAH.
THESE ARE DOMINICAN PEAS, LIKE, UH, IT'S CALLED GANDULES.
YEAH?
THIS IS A MARVELOUS AVOCADO SALAD.
AND THIS IS ANOTHER VERSION OF THE YUCA.
THE ONE THAT WAS IN THE CUSTARD IS THE AREPITA.
IT IS.
RICE.
THERE YOU GO. SALSIA, WE CALL IT.
MMM.
IT IS, HUH?
I KNEW IT WAS GONNA BE.
JUST LOOKING AT IT, YOU KNOW THAT'S GONNA BE GOOD, RIGHT?
SO YOU GUYS MAKE STUFF. YOU STILL GROW THINGS.
SO MANY COUNTRIES IN THE CARIBBEAN--
THERE'S NO FISHING ANYMORE.
YOU KNOW, THERE'S NO FARMING ANYMORE.
PEOPLE SAY, "MAN, FARMING IS HARD.
"I CAN CARRY SOME AMERICAN'S GOLF BAG FOR THE AFTERNOON
AND MAKE MORE MONEY THAN I MAKE IN FIVE DAYS FISHING."
RIGHT.
(laughs)
YOU DON'T GO TO THE D.R.
AND NOT VISIT THE BEACH.
THERE'S ALWAYS A LOCAL BEACH, A CITY BEACH,
A CARIBBEAN VERSION OF WHAT CONEY ISLAND USED TO BE,
A BELOVED GETAWAY
FAR ENOUGH FROM THE MADNESS OF THE WORKWEEK FOR AN ESCAPE,
BUT CLOSE ENOUGH TO TAKE THE BUS.
BOCA CHICA IS SANTO DOMINGO'S SPECIAL PLACE.
MEET MY NEW FRIEND IVAN, LOCAL SURFER DUDE,
FILMMAKER, AND ALL-AROUND GOOD GUY TO KNOW
IF YOU'RE VISITING THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC.
FIRST OF ALL, I FOUND OUT DOMINICANS REALLY LIKE TWITTER.
AND ONE OF THE TOP THREE SUGGESTIONS IS
YEP, TOTALLY.
THERE'S MANY DIFFERENT SPOTS TO EAT...
BUT WHERE I'M GONNA TAKE YOU IS GONNA BE WENDY'S.
ONE OF A STRIP OF SEAFOOD PLACES
SPECIALIZING IN COOKING WHOLE FISH UP IN HOT OIL.
YES.
UH-HUH.
MM-HMM.
AND THEY'RE VERY TASTY.
WHAT WE USUALLY DO-- WE HAVE THE JOHNNYCAKE,
NUMBER ONE BEACH SNACK IN BOCA CHICA.
YOU WILL SEE IT ALL OVER THE PLACE.
MM-HMM.
FRIED SWEET POTATOES, AND WE'RE GONNA CHOOSE AN AVOCADO.
SHE'S GONNA PREPARE ALSO AN AVOCADO FOR US.
YEAH.
THE SANTO DOMINGO VERSION OF, LIKE,
CONEY ISLAND USED TO BE FOR NEW YORKERS.
20 MINUTES, 25 MINUTES RIDE, YOU'RE HERE.
AND YOU GET FRESH FISH, THE BLUE OCEAN,
AND A NICE DAY.
COOL. SO, WHAT, SHE JUST COOKS THAT UP,
YEAH, THAT'S HOW IT IS.
YEP, LET'S GO.
GRACIAS, WENDY.
YEAH.
THIS IS A PARTY.
YEAH, YOU'LL SEE DOMINICANS EATING.
RIGHT.
FAMILIES, KIDS,
TEENAGERS, HOOKERS,
EVERYTHING, EVERYBODY.
BOCA CHICA IS ALSO A PLACE FOR BEACH VENDORS.
YOU KNOW, YOU CAN GET MUSIC.
OH.
THE OIL PAINTING GUY.
YEAH.
IT'S A GOOD RIDE OVER THERE.
YEAH, WE GOT THAT IN NEW YORK.
WELL, THE DOMINICAN VERSION...
I GUESS ALL OVER THE CARIBBEAN THEY DO IT,
BUT THIS CALLED A FRIO FRIO. IT'S SO REFRESHING.
OF COURSE YOU HAVE THE BEACH MUSICIANS
WALKING UP AND DOWN THE BEACH.
YOU CAN SELL ANYTHING IN BOCA CHICA.
YOU KNOW WHAT THEY DO HERE?
YOU CAN RENT A BATHING SUIT.
YEP.
WOW.
(laughs)
AND WHILE YOU WAIT...
I'M EXCITED ABOUT THE JOHNNYCAKE.
WE CAN TRY ONE RIGHT AWAY.
WE'RE GONNA TRY THESE ONES.
THANKS.
YEAH.
EVERYWHERE IN THE CARIBBEAN IT'S JOHNNYCAKE.
(speaking indistinctly)
THE REASON WE CAME-- COCONUT FRIED FISH,
TOSTONES, FRIED SWEET POTATO.
DON'T FORGET THE AVOCADO.
♪♪
OH, YEAH, HERE WE GO.
WE'RE NOT MESSING AROUND HERE.
YEAH. YEAH.
I LIKE TO EAT IT WITH MY FINGERS ALL THE TIME.
MMM. IT'S VERY GOOD.
NICE.
IN THE D.R. WE ARE BLESSED.
THIS FISH IS VERY GOOD.
WENDY ALWAYS HAS THE FRESH THING.
SHE COOKS IT RIGHT.
GENERALLY SPEAKING, SUNDAY'S FAMILY DAY.
IT IS, YEAH.
YEAH,
YEAH, THEY DO. I LIKE THAT TRADITION.
FAMILY IS SO IMPORTANT.
YOU GOTTA BE HAPPY FOR THE TIME YOU SHARE WITH YOUR FAMILY.
THAT'S PRICELESS.
SO THIS YEAR IT'S, UH,
IT'S DANILO AGAINST PAPA.
I GOTTA TELL YOU RIGHT AWAY.
I DON'T KNOW EITHER OF THESE GUYS.
I'M WORRIED ABOUT ANYONE WHO CALLS HIMSELF "PAPA."
YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN?
DOMINICANS--THEY LIKE TO HAVE A BOSS.
AND I'M NOT THAT SURE
IF ALL DOMINICANS ARE SAD
BECAUSE TRUJILLO DISAPPEARED.
BUT I DON'T KNOW. POLITICS IS CRAZY.
(laughs)
AT LEAST NO ONE THAT GOES INTO POWER
IS GONNA TAKE THE BEACH, THE WEATHER,
AND, UH, GOOD PEOPLE OF DOMINICAN REPUBLIC,
THERE'S THAT.
CHEERS.
CHEERS.
♪♪
WHEN YOU TALK ABOUT VILLA MELLA, PEOPLE THINK ABOUT CHICHARRóN.
THAT'S THE FIRST THING THAT COMES TO THEIR HEAD.
WHEN THE CONGAS START BANGING AWAY,
EVERYBODY KNOWS THERE'S PORK COOKING.
OUTSKIRTS OF TOWN IS VILLA MELLA,
WHAT BEGAN YEARS AND YEARS AGO AS AN AFRICAN SLAVE SETTLEMENT
WHERE WORKERS FROM THE NEARBY PLANTATIONS LIVED.
IN THE MORE THAN A CENTURY SINCE THOSE DAYS,
THE DESCENDENTS HAVE KEPT THINGS CLOSE
AND THE COMMUNITY MORE OR LESS INTACT.
THIS IS RUBéN LAMARCHE...
THIS WAS THE FIRST SETTLEMENT OF THE SLAVE COMMUNITY.
LOCAL WRITER AND MAGAZINE EDITOR.
HE'S BROUGHT ME TO A SERENATA,
A PARTY OF SORTS.
YEAH.
RUM BECAUSE IT'S A LOCAL PRODUCT.
THANK YOU, SIR. GRACIAS.
VILLA MELLA IS ALSO WHERE JUST ABOUT EVERYBODY AGREES
THE CHICHARRóN ARE LEGENDARY,
THE BEST OF THE BEST, AND THIS IN CULTURE
WHERE CHICHARRóN ARE EVERYWHERE.
STORY GOES THAT IN ORDER TO FORTIFY ONESELF
FOR A LONG AND BRUTAL DAY IN THE FIELDS,
BULKING UP ON FATTY PROTEIN WAS A MUST,
AND THAT SCRAPS LEFT OVER FROM BUTCHERED HOGS
WERE WHAT WAS AVAILABLE.
OKAY, MAYBE.
BUT THESE CHICHARRóN
LOOK PRETTY DAMN GOOD.
WHY IS THIS GROUND ZERO FOR CHICHARRONES?
UH, IT WAS A MATTER OF CLASS.
THEY RAISED PIGS, BUT THE GOOD MEAT WENT TO SOMEBODY ELSE...
THE FILLET.
AND THEY HAD TO COME UP WITH OPTIONS TO GET MEAT.
OKAY, LET'S GO.
WOW.
THAT'S A PRETTY LUXURIOUS CHICHARRóN.
YES, THAT'S WHAT IT IS.
NO.
IT HAS MEAT.
YEAH.
RIGHT.
UH, PEOPLE SAY IT'S SWEET POTATO,
BUT IT'S NOT SWEET POTATO, RIGHT?
(speaking Spanish)
NO, NO, WHAT--
WHAT ARE YOU DOING?
WHO ARE YOU, FRED FLINTSTONE?
OH, THERE WE GO. OH, WOW.
THAT'S A SHARP KNIFE, YOU KNOW?
LOOK AT THIS.
THIS IS BITTER ORANGE, GARLIC, AND MANY THINGS.
REALLY?
RIGHT. RIGHT.
YEAH. SO IF YOU-- DO YOU NEED THIS?
OKAY.
YEAH.
JUST 'CAUSE I'M CURIOUS,
YEAH.
ALL RIGHTY, LET'S DO IT.
MAN, I WAS TOTALLY SURPRISED BY THIS, THE CHICHARRONES,
WHICH I THOUGHT WAS GONNA BE JUST SKIN.
THIS IS--WOW.
MMM. DAMN, THAT'S GOOD.
THAT'S, UH, $28 IN NEW YORK,
I'LL TELL YOU RIGHT NOW.
TELL THAT TO MARIO BATALI. MAYBE HE'LL COME HERE.
SO SLOW-COOKED IN HOT OIL?
NO, IT'S NOT PRECISELY OIL.
MANTECA. LARD.
I ATE ONE WITH THIS PAPA,
OR A POTATO-- IT'S NOT A POTATO.
NO, IT'S A BATATA.
YEAH, IT'S A TUBER.
IT'S ALMOST LIKE A YUCA, ALMOST,
ONLY LIGHTER.
YEAH, LIGHTER.
YOU WRITE ABOUT FOOD. YOU COVER FOOD.
GENERALLY SPEAKING, IS THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC
NOT YET. WE'RE TURNING INTO IT.
YEAH?
I'LL TELL YA,
THIS PORK IS REALLY DELICIOUS,
VERY SOPHISTICATED, DELICIOUS (bleep).
MMM. REALLY EXTRAORDINARY,
TENDER AND DELICIOUS AND SAVORY AND SALTY.
EVERYTHING THAT'S GOOD ABOUT PORK--IT'S RIGHT HERE.
YOU'RE A COOL GUY. I THOUGHT YOU WERE ARROGANT,
A TYPICAL NEW YORK SON OF A (bleep).
NO, I KNOW NOTHING.
I WALLOW IN IGNORANCE.
THIS IS GOOD. THIS IS GOOD.
IN HIS DAY, TRUJILLO WAS NOT RELUCTANT
TO PUT UP MONUMENTS TO HIMSELF.
THIS ONE, HOWEVER,
HE PROBABLY WOULD HAVE DECLINED THE OPPORTUNITY.
IT MARKS THE SPOT WHERE HE WAS GUNNED DOWN
IN AN AMBUSH IN 1961.
IF YOU'RE GOING TO BE REMEMBERED
BY A LARGE OBJECT, HOWEVER, YOU COULD DO WORSE THAN THIS.
JUST ACROSS THE STREET, LECHONERA EL MONUMENTO
IS THE SORT OF MEMORIAL ANY MAXIMUM LEADER
WOULD BE PROUD TO LEAVE BEHIND.
WAIT A MINUTE. LOOK! IT'S A PIG!
GENTLEMEN, I BELIEVE THEY CALL THIS LOCAL FAVORITE ***óN.
ACTUALLY, WE CALL IT PUERCO EN PúA.
THE STICK.
MY LONGTIME FRIEND AND CAMERAMAN JERRY RISIUS
SPENDS A LOT OF TIME DOWN HERE.
HAVING WORKED ON THE SHOW SO LONG, I LIKE TO CHEAT.
SO TODAY HE'S WITH ME AND IVAN.
THIS IS YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD. WHAT PART ARE WE GOING FOR HERE?
FIRST THING WE DO, WE ASK TO TRY EL CUERITO...
WHICH IS THE SKIN.
AND HE'S GONNA TRY. (speaking Spanish)
PEOPLE GOT DEALS WITH THIS THING.
THEY SAY THAT THAT'S WHERE YOU HAVE TO TRY IT FIRST.
OH, SO WE'VE ALREADY HAD THE GOOD PART.
OH, NO, THAT'S NOT THE BEST.
ALL RIGHT, SO WHILE THIS GUY GETS STABBY WITH THE PIG,
OKAY.
ALL RIGHT.
THE ATMOSPHERE AT LECHONERA EL MONUMENTO
IS RATHER MINIMALIST.
BUT THEY DO FEATURE A FLOOR SHOW.
OH, DAMN.
WOW.
AND YOU DON'T EVER WANT TO MISS WITH THAT THING, DO YOU?
ONE MISS WITH THAT KNIFE,
YEAH.
HIS FATHER OWNED THIS PLACE FOR 22 YEARS NOW.
AND HE JUST KNOWS PORK.
THE REAL ACTION HAPPENS OUT BACK,
(snorting)
♪♪
PEOPLE KNOW THIS PLACE. THEY COME HERE.
AND THEY ASK, "GET ME ONE FOR TOMORROW.
RIGHT, SO IF I'M HAVING A PARTY, I CAN CALL HIM UP,
FOR SURE.
YEAH.
WHOA, LOOK AT THAT.
THIS LOOKS GREAT.
DIG IN, GUYS.
YEAH, THERE'S A LOT OF NICE SKIN
ON THE TOP THERE STILL, TOO.
WHEN YOU SERVE THE WHOLE PIG,
LOOK AT ALL THAT FAT.
WHERE I GREW UP, THEY-- THEY WOULD'VE CUT THAT OFF.
DOMINICANS--I MEAN, MY FATHER, HE LOVES FAT.
HE GOES FOR THE FAT RIGHT AWAY, POP, POP, POP, POP, POP.
I THINK IT'S MORE SKIN.
MORE CUERITOS. I MEAN, CUERITO IS SOMETHING
YOU HAVE A SIDE ALL THE TIME. YOU NEED TO HAVE IT.
NICE. THAT'S PERFECT RIGHT THERE, HUH?
A LITTLE MEAT, A LITTLE FAT,
A LITTLE SKIN.
NOW THE NAME OF THIS PLACE IS "EL MONUMENTO."
THIS IS THE PLACE WHERE THEY KILLED DICTATOR TRUJILLO.
IT WAS AN AMBUSH. THEY START SHOOTING HIM.
HE GOT OUT OF THE CAR AND STARTED FIRING BACK.
AND HE WAS YELLING, BECAUSE HE WAS VERY DOMINICAN,
SAYING, YOU KNOW, "YOU'RE NOT GONNA GET ME!"
POP, POP, POP-- YEAH, YOU KNOW HOW IT IS.
KIND OF.
SO IT'S SAID THAT HE FIGHT TILL THE END.
RIGHT, BUT I MEAN, GENERALLY SPEAKING,
YES, YES, WE ARE.
MY WIFE'S AUNT
USED TO SERVE THE TRUJILLOS ICE CREAM
RIGHT.
AND THEY WOULD KEEP THEIR EYES DOWN ALL THE TIME,
'CAUSE IF ANYBODY-- IF HE WOULD LOOK AT YOU,
AND HE WOULD SAY, "I LIKE YOU," AND "YOU'RE CUTE,"
YOUR LIFE WAS OVER.
OH, THAT'S A CHEEK.
A CHEEK SKIN.
YEAH, SURE.
BITTER ORANGE AGAIN, RIGHT?
MANY DOMINICANS, WELL, THEY ARE FORCED TO MOVE
BECAUSE OF ECONOMICAL, UM, STRUGGLE.
BUT MOST OF THEM, THEIR DREAM IS TO COME BACK.
IT'S TO GO TO NEW YORK, MAKE ENOUGH MONEY TO COME BACK.
SOMETIMES THE AMERICAN DREAM IS NOT THAT REACHABLE,
THAT--THAT EASY.
WHEN THEY SEE THAT, THEY SAY,
LIKE, "WHAT HAVE I DONE? I WANT TO LIVE A SIMPLE LIFE."
♪♪
♪♪
THERE'S NO FIGURING WHAT PEOPLE EAT FOR BREAKFAST
IN DIFFERENT CULTURES AROUND THE WORLD.
SO, IVAN, WHAT'S FOR BREAKFAST IN THE D.R.?
UH, WE HAVE A FEW TRADITIONAL OPTIONS.
IN THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC
THEY DO THIS--
A CRAZY-***, "HOW DID THAT HAPPEN?"
CONCOCTION OF FRIED-- WHAT WOULD ONE CALL IT?
SALAMI? BOLOGNA?
SO IT'S BASICALLY DEEP-FRIED SALAMI, TOSTONES.
MANY DOMINICANS ALSO HAS THE SPAGHETTI IN THE MORNING.
YEP.
BEFORE YOU START POINTING FINGERS,
YOU MIGHT LOOK DOWN AT YOUR LUCKY CHARMS
OR YOUR BRIGHT PINK RAZOR-SHARP CRUNCH BERRIES.
BUT EVEN I'VE GOT TO ADMIT,
THIS IS BREAKFAST?
THIS IS CACHAITO'S PLACE.
THEY'RE REALLY FAST.
PEOPLE STOP, GRAB SOMETHING, AND GO TO WORK.
(speaking Spanish)
WHERE DID THIS COME FROM, THOUGH?
I MEAN, SALAMI? I GET THE FRITURAS.
YEAH.
BASICALLY, IT'S BECOME ONE OF, UH,
OUR MAIN FOODS.
THANKS, MAN.
MANY PEOPLE SAY THAT ANY ANIMAL CAN BE SALAMI.
WE HAVE A JOKE. WE SAY THIS IS DONKEYS.
(speaking Spanish)
WE HAVE SALAMI AND SPAGHETTI.
I MEAN, DO YOU HAVE A LOT OF ITALIANS ON THIS ISLAND? NO.
THIS SPAGHETTI HAS SALAMI INSIDE.
(laughs)
IT'S GOOD, MAN.
YOU KNOW, IT'S SALTY, SAVORY,
FOR SURE.
I MEAN, YOU HAVE THIS, YOU CAN GO DO WHATEVER YOU WANT.
IS THIS A WORKING POOR THING, OR RICH PEOPLE EAT THIS, TOO?
REALLY IT'S LIKE, UH, WORKING PEOPLE,
BUT MANY PEOPLE FROM ANY CLASS,
THEY WANT TO GET THEIR FRITURA.
THEY WANT TO GET THEIR SALAMI AND TOSTONES.
OH, YEAH?
OH, YEAH, YOU GO TO THE FRITURA. YOU HAVE YOUR SALAMI,
AND YOU'RE--YOU'RE A COOL GUY. YOU'RE A NORMAL GUY.
THANK YOU FOR INTRODUCING ME TO THIS.
BREAKFAST OUT OF THE WAY,
IT'S TIME FOR SOME REST AND RELAXATION.
TIME TO CALL IN THE NETWORK CHOPPER.
THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC IS NOT SOME TINY, LITTLE ISLAND.
IN FACT, IT'S A HUGE PART OF AN ISLAND,
HAITI BEING OVER THERE,
AND THE SAMANá PENINSULA,
WHERE I'M GOING, OVER HERE.
WHAT WOULD BE A 5-HOUR DRIVE,
MUCH OF IT OVER SOME PRETTY FUNKY ROADS,
TAKES ONLY HALF AN HOUR IN A HELICOPTER.
WE LAND RIGHT ON RINCON BEACH,
PICTURE-FREAKIN'-PERFECT
AND RIGHT IN TIME FOR LUNCH.
(Anthony) WHAT A SPOT.
CAN'T ARGUE ABOUT THE AMBIENCE.
LOBSTER BASTED WITH ORANGE MARINADE,
GRILLED OVER COALS,
AND OF COURSE, FRIED SWEET POTATOES,
COCONUT BREAD,
AND RICE AND BEANS,
WHICH YOU MUST HAVE WITH JUST ABOUT EVERYTHING.
A PLACE LIKE THIS, THERE'S ALWAYS A DOG.
AND I THINK THEY'RE ALL IN THE SAME EXTENDED FAMILY, TOO.
ALL ACROSS THE CARIBBEAN, THEY ALL LOOK THE SAME.
(woman clears throat)
PUT IT RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE.
LOOKING VERY GOOD.
YEAH?
REALLY?
IN NEW YORK, WHEN THE FLIES ARE AROUND,
IT MEANS THE OLD LADY IN THE NEXT APARTMENT IS DEAD.
(laughs)
(sighs)
THAT'S A BEAST. LOOK AT THAT THING.
THIS IS GONNA WORK.
MAN, THAT'S A WHOLE DIFFERENT LOBSTER THAN WHAT WE'RE USED TO.
THIS SPECIES OF LOBSTER IS INDIGENOUS TO THE AREA,
KNOWN FOR ITS FREAKISHLY LARGE ***
WHICH IT'S KNOWN TO THRUST INTO TOURISTS UNEXPECTEDLY.
IT'S A DOMINICAN LOBSTER.
THAT'S WHAT THEY SAY ABOUT DOMINICANS.
YEAH. (laughs)
BUT A WHOLE DIFFERENT FLAVOR FROM, YOU KNOW,
WHAT WE KNOW AS, LIKE, NEW ENGLAND LOBSTER.
DIFFERENT STORY. TOOK ME A WHILE TO GET USED TO THESE.
NEW ENGLAND LOBSTERS ARE SWEET.
THESE ARE NOT SWEET. THESE ARE MORE, UH,
LIKE, MORE ON THE SAVORY SIDE.
THIS IS OLD-SCHOOL CARIBBEAN.
RICE, PIGEON PEAS.
WHAT DO YOU CALL THE LITTLE PEAS HERE?
GANDULES.
YEAH, THAT'S MORO DE GANDULES.
YEAH.
IT'S A TRADITION IN THIS PART OF THE ISLAND.
YES, TOTALLY.
LESS SPANISH, MORE-- MORE AFRO-CARIBBEAN.
MORE AFRO-CARIBBEAN.
AND FOR DESSERT-- SOMETHING SPECIAL.
THIS IS WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT.
OH, YEAH. I MEAN, THAT CAN'T POSSIBLY BE BAD.
SO YOU GET THE PIÑA COLADA
IN THE PINEAPPLE.
IT JUST CAN'T GET BETTER THAN THIS, YOU KNOW?
YOU'VE GOT TO EAT THIS WITH A SPOON.
MMM.
THIS IS A GOOD ONE, HUH?
OH, DELICIOUS.
SO WHO COMES HERE?
MOST OF THEM ARE TOURISTS.
RIGHT.
IT'S NOT THAT ACCESSIBLE.
NOT A LOT OF PEOPLE COME BY HELICOPTER.
NOT A LOT OF PEOPLE COME BY HELICOPTER.
HOW CROWDED DOES IT GET OUT HERE?
NEVER.
I'VE BEEN AROUND THE CARIBBEAN.
YOU'VE GOTTA GO PRETTY FAR TO FIND A BEACH LIKE THIS.
THIS IS PRETTY AWESOME.
DID I HEAR THAT ANNOYING PIÑA COLADA SONG
ECHOING SOMEWHERE IN MY SKULL?
WHY, YES. YES, I DID.
♪♪
UP IN WASHINGTON HEIGHTS
OR ANYWHERE YOU FIND DOMINICANS HOMESICK FOR THEIR FOOD,
THERE'S USUALLY ONE DISH THAT STANDS ABOVE THE REST,
ONE THING THAT NEARLY EVERYBODY AGREES
IS THE MOST FIERCELY MISSED, THE MOST FONDLY REMEMBERED...
AH, SANCOCHO.
BASICALLY THE NATIONAL DISH OF THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC.
I THINK ONLY DOMINICANS KNOW ABOUT MAKING GOOD SANCOCHO.
(man) MY AUNT,
SHE MAKES THE BEST SANCOCHO EVER.
MY SISTER MAKES THE BEST SANCOCHO.
MY SANCOCHO IS THE BEST IN THE WORLD.
SANCOCHO IS LIKE A STEW.
YOU PUT A LOT OF, LIKE, PLANTAINS.
AND SOME AVOCADO SLICES.
EVERY CELEBRATION, GOTTA HAVE A SANCOCHO.
BACK IN SANTO DOMINGO, IT'S ORLANDO'S BIRTHDAY.
RUBéN AND FRIENDS ARE THROWING HIM A LITTLE PARTY
IN THE REAR COURTYARD OF A WORKING-CLASS NEIGHBORHOOD
ON THE EDGE OF ZONA COLONIAL.
♪♪
(Anthony) OH. UH, HI.
HOW YOU DOING?
OH, GOOD. LOOKING GOOD.
MMM.
AND A SPECIALIST IS PRESENT--
THIS GUY, CALLED "THE BRAIN,"
WHO'S HERE TO CONSULT AND ADVISE OR SOMETHING.
I DON'T KNOW. ALL I KNOW FOR SURE
IS THAT (bleep) LOOKS AND SMELLS GOOD.
OH, YES.
TAMARINDO PATIO.
THANK YOU. THANKS FOR HAVING ME.
NOW DO YOU COORDINATE, OR ARE YOU THE CHEF?
I COORDINATE. I AM THE CHEF ALSO.
SO THIS IS A COLLABORATIVE EFFORT.
HOW LONG HAS THIS BEEN COOKING?
THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON SINCE 2:30 IN THE AFTERNOON.
SO HOW DOES SOMETHING LIKE THIS GET STARTED?
YOU'RE DRINKING. YOU'RE HAVING A PARTY.
AND THEN SOMEBODY SAYS, "VAMOS UN SANCOCHO."
WHY THE HELL WOULD-- DO WE MAKE A SANCOCHO?
THERE'S ONION AND GARLIC
AND THIS.
CLEAR LIQUID IN A BOTTLE? WHY, YES.
SO I'M GUESSING WHILE YOU'RE COOKING IT,
YOU HAVE TO DRINK.
SO EVERYBODY GETS OUT SOME MONEY.
AND I SAY, "I'LL TAKE CARE OF THE VIVERES,"
SO THE YUCA, YOU KNOW, THE PLANTAINS AND EVERYTHING.
HE SAYS, "I'LL TAKE CARE OF THE MEAT."
THEN SOMEBODY SAYS, "I GOT 2 POUNDS OF RICE,
AND I'VE GOT TWO AVOCADOS BACK HOME." IT IS THE PROCESS.
DOMINICANS WHO STILL LIVE-- WHO ARE LIVING IN NEW YORK,
THEY'VE BEEN AWAY FROM HOME A LONG TIME.
SO WHEN THEY SEE THIS SHOW, AND THEY SEE THAT,
THEY'RE GONNA LOOK AT THAT, AND THEY'RE GONNA--
WELL, THEY'RE GONNA FIGURE IT OUT,
BECAUSE WHEN I WAS SLEEPING OVER THERE,
I-I-I USED TO MAKE IT.
YEAH.
THE BRONX.
YES.
15 YEARS.
YES. I GOT 4 KIDS IN NEW YORK.
YEAH.
I JUST WANT YOU TO SAY, "I LIKE."
THERE IS NO WAY I'M NOT GONNA LOVE THAT.
ALREADY I CAN TELL YOU RIGHT NOW.
CHEERS.
FOR MYSELF,
RIGHT.
MY MOTHER USED TO MAKE THE BEST SANCOCHO OF THE AREA.
ARE YOU GONNA PRAY TO IT?
YEAH.
(speaking Spanish) YOU'RE GONNA HAVE THAT.
YOU SHOULD PUT THE AVOCADO.
GET THE HOT SAUCE.
GO EASY AT FIRST, YEAH.
(man) OH, WE'VE GOT SOME RICE HERE.
OH, NICE.
(Rubén) NOW YOU TAKE IT IN. TAKE IT IN.
LOOK AT THAT-- WITH A PIECE OF AVOCADO,
THE DOMINICAN WAY. WHOA.
WE'RE GONNA GET YOU SOME CONCON.
I, UH, NO.
IT'S LIKE THE FREEBASE RICE.
YEAH.
YEAH, THAT'S THE CRACKER RICE.
(man) BE CAREFUL. IT'S HOT. IT'S HOT.
MAN, THAT'S AMAZING.
YEAH.
I WOULD--THERE'S NO PLACE I'D RATHER BE
THAN RIGHT HERE IN THIS COURTYARD RIGHT NOW, MY FRIEND.
THANK YOU. (bleep) AWESOME.
IT'S NOT A COURTYARD. IT'S A CALLEJóN.
SAY "CALLEJóN."
CALLE-- CALLEJóN.
ALLEYWAY?
MAN, YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING HERE.
MY PURPOSE IS THAT YOU FEEL GOOD,
AND YOU FEELING JUST SWELL.
I'M FEELING GOOD, MAN. I'M VERY, VERY, VERY HAPPY.
THANK YOU. THANK YOU. I APPRECIATE THAT.
♪♪
BE SURE TO CHECK MY WEB SITE AT...
♪ NO RESERVATIONS ♪
ANOTHER DAY IN PARADISE.
I'M UP EARLY TO MEET MY OLD COLLEAGUE
DOWN BY THE WATER'S EDGE
WHERE THE FISHING BOATS COME IN.
BREAKFAST READY?
TONY, YOU READY?
JERRY'S A VETERAN SHOOTER WHO GOES BACK WITH ME
TO, LIKE, THE PREHISTORIC "COOK'S TOUR" DAYS.
YOU NAME IT, WE'VE DONE IT TOGETHER.
JERRY'S WIFE BEING DOMINICAN,
HE AND HIS FAMILY HAVE A HOUSE NEAR HERE.
IT'S TORTURE. I WOKE UP THIS MORNING.
I LOOKED OUT MY WINDOW.
AND IT WAS LIKE, I-I HAVE THINGS TO DO TODAY?
I DON'T KNOW WHAT I'M WHINING ABOUT, ACTUALLY.
YOU TRAVEL AT LEAST AS MUCH AS ME,
WELL, THAT'S JUST IT.
SO WHAT'S YOUR AVERAGE DAY DOWN HERE?
YEAH. THEN IT'S A HEAVY LUNCH.
THEN IT'S A NAP.
THIS SORT OF SITUATION PRODS ONE
YEAH.
WE COME DOWN HERE, TALK TO THE FISHERMEN,
SEE WHAT'S COMING IN, WHAT'S FRESH.
WE FIGURE OUT WHAT WE WANT TO EAT THAT DAY.
THIS IS THE END OF THE ROAD, ESSENTIALLY.
HE KNOWS THIS VERY NICE PLACE WITH A GOOD VIEW,
BUT GETTING THERE REQUIRES SPECIAL VEHICLES.
I HAVE BAD HISTORY WITH THESE THINGS, I KNOW,
BUT DADDY ALWAYS SAID, "HORSE THROWS YOU.
YOU GET RIGHT BACK ON AND RIDE."
TEMPTED TO PICK UP A FEW STEAKS
BY CRASHING MY A.T.V. HEADLONG INTO A COW,
I'M DISSUADED FROM SUCH FOOLISHNESS BY JERRY,
WHO PROMISES ME A SEAFOOD MEAL.
EL CABITO-- PERCHED ATOP A CLIFF
OVERLOOKING THE TURQUOISE-BLUE ATLANTIC WATERS.
THE PLACE IS RUN BY A COUPLE OF EUROPEAN EXPATS, LIKE JERRY,
LURED BY THE PROMISE OF FALLING OFF THE GRID
AND THAT FACT THAT IT'S, LIKE, GORGEOUS HERE.
GRACIAS.
HERE WE GO. THANKS FOR COMING.
THAT'S KIND OF A GOOD HATE.
YEAH, A CHOKED-WITH-ENVY KIND OF A HATE.
I'M JUST A RAMBLIN' MAN.
I GUESS THE WORLD IS MY VACATION HOME.
THEY WHIP UP A SALAD OF FRESH CONCH AND CUTTLEFISH
AND SOME GRILLED SHRIMP.
♪♪
(Jerry) OH, GOOD.
(speaking Spanish)
WOW, LOOK AT THAT. MAN.
(Jerry) WE HAVE A DOMINICAN SEAFOOD EXTRAVAGANZA.
YEAH.
YEAH, SO TO SPEAK.
MM-HMM.
CONCHA.
MMM, TENDER.
NOW THIS IS ACTUALLY FINGER-LICKING GOOD.
I WANT TO HAVE A NICKNAME.
I WOULD WEAR THAT NAME WITH PRIDE.
(laughs) AND IF YOU SPENT ANY TIME HERE,
YEAH, PROBABLY.
I WAS LOOKING FOR SOMETHING MORE LIKE, "EL SERPIENTE"
OR "EL GIGANTISSIMO."
"EL GIGANTE."
YOU DANCE.
SEE--YEAH, SEE, I DON'T.
I WAS OFFERED "DANCING WITH THE STARS."
AND?
SOMEDAY AFTER I APPEAR ON "CELEBRITY REHAB"
YEAH.
♪ NO RESERVATIONS ♪
♪♪
YOU KNOW WHAT I LIKE.
I LIKE A LATE-NIGHT COUNTER PACKED WITH LOCALS,
WHERE I CAN GET SOME MEAT
AND MAYBE A LITTLE GREASE OR FAT AND SOME CHEESE,
PREFERABLY MELTED CHEESE
AND MAYBE SOME OTHER STUFF IN BETWEEN SOME GOOD BREAD.
THAT'S WHAT I LIKE.
BARRA PAYAN IS WHERE DOMINICANS
WHO KNOW WHERE THE GOOD STUFF IS
GO FOR THE SANDWICHES THEY WANT AND NEED.
EVIDENTLY A LOT OF DOMINICANS FEEL AS I DO,
BECAUSE THIS PLACE IS JAMMED,
CRANKING OUT THE GOOD STUFF 24 HOURS A FREAKIN' DAY.
TRUST ME, YOU WANT THIS.
YES. YES, YOU DO.
WHAT'S UP?
THIS IS AN AMAZING PLACE. AS YOU CAN SEE, IT NEVER STOPS.
YEAH, IT'S HUGE.
AND THEY'RE LIKE THIS ALL THE TIME, LIKE, 24 HOURS.
YES. 24 HOURS. THEY CLOSE 1 DAY A WEEK.
THEY SAY THAT THE PRESIDENT OF THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC,
YEAH.
WHEN HE'S WORKING LATE AT NIGHT.
I MIGHT BE ABLE TO GET SOMETHING WITH MEAT AND CHEESE HERE?
WOW.
SLICED TOMATOES, AND, UM, MUSTARD, LOTS OF MUSTARD,
AND CHEESE... (speaking indistinctly)
(conversing in Spanish)
WE'RE DRINKING ORANGE JUICE
WITH A CARNATION FILM,
WHICH IS ORANGE JUICE WITH CA--
WE CALL IT "DIE DREAMING."
OH, YEAH, YEAH, YEAH, I'VE HEARD ABOUT THIS.
IN SPANISH IT'S CALLED, UH...
YES.
DIE DREAMING.
IT'S A VERY POETIC NAME.
YEAH?
AHH.
NOW LOOK AT THE LAYERS.
RIGHT.
YOU'VE GOT TOMATO. YOU'VE GOT HAM.
AND YOU'VE GOT QUESO... (speaking indistinctly)
LET'*** IT.
AHH, THAT'S JUST WHAT I NEEDED.
NOW WHAT'S THE NAME OF THIS SANDWICH?
UH, THAT'S A PAYAN ESPECIAL.
YEAH.
MAN, THEY'RE NOT KIDDING. THAT'S A SERIOUS SANDWICH.
YEAH.
YOU CAN'T IMAGINE. THIS IS EASY NOW.
YOU HAVE TWO DEEP HERE, THREE DEEP.
HOW MANY SANDWICHES DO YOU THINK THEY SELL A NIGHT?
(speaking Spanish)
2,000 SANDWICHES A DAY.
THAT'S A GOOD SANDWICH.
89 YEARS.
WOW.
NO FRENCH FRIES. NO HAMBURGERS.
IT'S JUST SANDWICH AND JUICE.
THEY HAVE KEPT IT PRIMITIVE ON PURPOSE.
IT'S NICE. THAT'S WHAT IT'S ALL ABOUT.
YOU YELL FOR THE FOOD.
"WHERE'S YOUR SERVICE, YOU SON OF A (bleep)?
(laughs)
GOOD FOOD AND GOOD PEOPLE EVERY DAY.
NOBODY AT ANY LEVEL,
EITHER, UH, DOMINICANS IN NEW YORK OR HERE
HAVE SUGGESTED THAT THERE'S ANYTHING
YEAH.
THERE YOU GO.
IT'S WHAT YOU MISS
WHEN YOU'VE BEEN TOO LONG AWAY FROM HOME...
YOU KNOW, I ALWAYS HAVE THAT LITTLE EMPTINESS IN ME.
YOU KNOW, EVERYTHING WAS FRESH.
IT CAME FROM SOMEBODY'S BACKYARD.
SOMEBODY'S GRANDMA WAS GROWING THIS,
AND SOMEONE'S DAD WAS GROWING THAT.
THE EVERYDAY SOUNDS OF THINGS
YOU MIGHT NOT ONCE HAVE EVEN NOTICED.
YOU KNOW, EVERY DAY IS A PARTY BEING IN THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC.
IT DOESN'T MATTER, YOU KNOW, WHETHER YOU HAVE MONEY
OR YOU DON'T HAVE MONEY.
THERE IS ALWAYS A TIME AND A PLACE TO HAVE A BEER OPEN,
TO ROAST A PIG.
EVERYONE TAKES THE TIME TO RELAX, TO ENJOY THEMSELVES.
NOT TO WORRY.
THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC AND WHAT THEY DO SO WELL
ISN'T GOING ANYWHERE.