Tip:
Highlight text to annotate it
X
hello youtube
this is a video i did earlier
on how to build a temporary wall
or a permanent which is no load bearing
this is my outdoor entertaining area
which im using as a second lounge room
for a tennant we have living with us
basically i dont want them
in our lounge room
i want them to have their own tv room
so they do not bother us too much.
This is the frame i built
The way i did it
I put the bottom plate and the top plate in
first, which is the bottom piece of wood
and the top piece of wood
and i screwed that into where the tiles are at the base
but i actually used the grout lines on the tiles
and used masonary anchors
so if i ever want to remove the wall
i can just knock it down, and pull the screws out
and grout the holes again
with the side stud on the bricks
i did the same thing, used masonary anchors
trying to use the mortar where i could
rather than screwing into the brick and ruining the brick
i put about 4 masonary anchors at that end on the brick wall
and screwed the other side as well to the piece of steel
above the window
and then i put the vertical studs in one by one
The next thing i did was hang the door
I wanted to check everything opened and closed
properly, and everything was all plumb and level
my frame was out slightly at the doorway
so i adjusted the stud closest to the doorway
which made the door shut perfectly.
I was able to just cut one stud slightly
reposition it, check it was plumb / level
Unless the wall is load bearing little mistakes like
this arent really too much of a problem
as long as the studs are 450mm apart
and plumb
I had to custom make the door jamb
because i was using double plasterboard sheeting
on one side of the wall to help with sound proofing
so a standard thickness door jamb would
have been too thin
This is the first lot of sheeting
There is another lot of sheeting going over the top
of this. You just use stud adhesive to stick it to
the frame, ideally inbetween where you
will be screwing the gyprock / plasterboard
to the pine studs
I wasnt being too fussy at this stage, because there
was another lot of gyprock / plasterboard
to go over the top of this again
to help with sound poofing.
This is the plastering, this is where it starts to get a bit
harder, you have to fill all the cracks above 2mm
before applying the joining tape
There is three types of joining tape you can use.
You can use mesh tape, which is harder to
plaster because it is thicker, and may require more coats
And there is two types of paper tape you can use
one is self adhesive, and works like a postage stamp
you just wet it with water, and it sticks to the surface
the other one has to be beeded in to wet plaster, which is more advanced and i wouldnt recommend
it for an amateur
you are better off using the self adhesive paper tape
which can be ordered online from the united states
if you cannot get it in your own country.
The trick to get the self adhesive tape to work properly.
Is make sure the plaster is completely dry first
before applying the tape (after 1 coat of plaster)
then drying off the tape before applying plaster over it
using a broadknife which is a plasterers tool.
I use a quick setting plaster, which sets fairly hard
in 20 minutes, and will be completely dry in a few hours.
What you will eventually do after you have plastered the wall
3 coats of plaster, you will block sand the wall
using a block sander, with some medium or fine sand paper
dont hand sand the wall, you must use the block sander
for a perfect finish
If you hand sand the wall, without using the sanding block
and you have light coming across the wall, from a light source, or just the sun
you will see all your hand marks that you have left
from hand sanding
just like on a vehicle / car if you have ever done any panel beating
you must always block sand where possible
you then use a sealer undercoat over the top of the newly sanded wall
undercoat the trim and the door as well using the same undercoat
then use low sheen acrylic house paint on the wall
and either a full gloss paint or a semi gloss paint to the door and trim
This is the finished wall
I had some lights on the wall i was going to use
but i ended up pulling them off.
on the inside edge of the gyprock / plasterboard
there is actually a plastic strip
that i have put on the edge of the gyprock / plasterboard
before fixing it to the studs
This gives it a nice straight edge
You can see the edge here, and how nice it looks
with the plastic strip
and also how nice the wall looks after being sanded using a block
There are a number of different ways you can do this.
I positioned the top and bottom plate first
for the frame, levelled the top plate to the bottom plate using a plum bob.
Then i added the individual studs and cross sections / noggings in the wall, checking
everything was level as i went
put the door jambs on last
hang the door first
and get somebody to hold it shut and then hammer the door jamb around the door
so that way if it is a little out, it wont look like it is
because the door jamb is now straight with the door.
If cracks are uneven around the door, you can use
a disc sander to even it out.
With the gyprock, usually you would sheet top
to bottom, i started about 12 inches from the top
and worked down, and filled in the top last
because i had a slight slope on the roof
The paper tape you use, is either
plain old bedding tape, or self adhesive tape
which is easier, and i recommend you using this tape
As far as plaster, i use a 20 minute quick set product
that i mix myself
i can put a coat on, and 5 minutes later put another coat on
Undercoat the whole wall / trim / door
using a sealer undercoat of some sort
then paint the desired colour
I used a plastic strip for the side of the gyprock
I will be translating all my videos that i think are helpful
for people that are deaf, and that dont speak english.