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>> WE GO UP THIS BEAUTIFUL
MOUNTAIN.
THIS INCREDIBLE TOWN.
IT GOES BACK TO THE 12th
CENTURY.
PEOPLE TRUDGE UP THE HILL TO THE
BEAUTIFUL CHURCH TO TAKE THE
WALK THAT MICHAEL CORLEONE TOOK.
NOW AND FOREVER MORE IT WILL BE
"THE GODFATHER" THEME PARK WHERE
THEY ARE PLAYING "THE GODFATHER"
THEME OVER AND OVER
>> I THINK MOST THOUGHTFUL TO
SAY YOU'RE DISGUSTED BY THIS.
♪
>> IMAGINE NOT WAKING UP EVERY
DAY.
>> AS ONE BUS AFTER ANOTHER
FILLED WITH JAPANESE TOURISTS GO
UP THERE, OH, LOOK, MICHAEL
CORLEONE GOT MARRIED THERE.
OH, IT'S SO FANTASTIC.
♪ I TOOK A WALK THROUGH THIS
BEAUTIFUL WORLD ♪
♪ FELT THE COOL RAIN ON MY
SHOULDER ♪
♪ FOUND SOMETHING GOOD IN THIS
BEAUTIFUL WORLD ♪
♪ I FELT THE RAIN GETTING
COLDER ♪
♪ SHA LA LA LA LA ♪
♪ SHA LA LA LA LA LA LA ♪
♪ SHA LA LA LA LA ♪
♪ SHA LA LA LA LA LA LA ♪
♪
>> IT'S ONE OF THE MOST
BEAUTIFUL PLACES IN EUROPE, A
PLACE WHOSE ROOTS ARE VERY MUCH
THE ROOTS OF THE TOWN WHERE I
LIVE, BUT SOMEHOW I'VE NEVER
BEEN ABLE TO GET IT RIGHT.
TO TELL THE STORY, ANY STORY OF
SICILY.
IT'S THE BIGGEST ISLAND IN THE
MEDITERRANEAN ANN.
TWO MAIN TOWNS OF PALERMO AND
CATANIA ON OPPOSITE SIDES.
I'M DONE A SHOW IN PALERMO
BEFORE.
IT WAS AN ENIMGOAT RODEO, AN
EPIC OF HUMILIATING SCALE.
THIS TIME I WAS GOING TO GET IT
RIGHT.
THERE'S THE SICILY WE KNOW FROM
FILMS, AN EVOCATIVE, DEEPLY FELT
HISTORY THAT'S NOT QUITE REALITY
BUT COOL ANYWAY, RIGHT?
THERE'S THE SIMPLE FACT OF ITS
LOCATION, TUCKED AWAY UNDER THE
BOOT OF ITALY, PART OF BUT NOT
REALLY PART OF THAT COUNTRY.
ITS OWN LANGUAGE, CULTURE, ITS
OWN HISTORY OF NORMAN, ARAB,
SPANISH, ROMAN, TURKISH,
EGYPTIAN INTERLOPERS, ALL
LEAVING THEIR MARK AND THEIR
INFLUENCE.
I GREW UP IN NEW JERSEY WHICH
WAS PRETTY MUCH SICILY ON THE
HUDSON.
THE ITALIAN-AMERICANS NEXT DOOR
WEREN'T FROM MILAN, I COULD TELL
YOU THAT MUCH.
I GUESS WHAT I'M TELLING YOU IS
I FIGURED THIS WILL BE EASY.
VILLA MORACI, A CERTIFIED HOTEL,
WORKING FARM THAT IN THIS CASE
PRODUCES OLIVE OIL.
>> HOW MANY ACRES OF PROPERTY DO
YOU HAVE?
>> ABOUT 40 ACRES.
>> ONE OF THE OLDEST ORGANIC
FARM MOUNTAINS.
>> THIS IS ***, THE
PROPRIETOR.
WOW.
SO THAT'S WHERE POTATOES COME
FROM.
HOW FREAKIN' HARD CAN IT BE TO
MAKE AN AWESOME SHOW IN SICILY?
EAT THE NICE FOOD, DRINK THE
WINE.
IN AN IDYLLIC VILLAGE IN THE
COUNTRYSIDE, OUTSIDE CATANIA.
HOW LOW IMPACT CAN IT GET?
SO THE PLAN WAS WE GO FISHING.
WE GET SOME FRESH OCTOPUS, MAYBE
SOME CUTTLEFISH AND EXPLORE THE
BOUNTIES OF SURROUNDING WATERS,
ALL WHILE WORKING ON OUR TANS.
WITH A LOCAL CHEF, FISHERMEN,
MAN OF THE SEA.
HE'S EXPERIENCED.
HE KNOWS WHERE TO GET IT GOOD.
>> YOU LIKE THE OCEAN?
>> I LOVE IT.
>> HOW DO YOU SEE IT IN ITALIAN?
>> RICCI.
>> ONE OF MY FAVORITE THINGS TO
EAT.
>> THIS IS TURIN, MY HOST.
WHO ELSE IS OUT THIS OCTOPUS?
>> IT'S CUTTLEFISH AND I WANT TO
TRY TO FIND SOME APALONE AND THE
BUCCE AND SMALL CLAMS.
I THINK THEY WILL BE REALLY
FULL.
>> I'M THINKING REALLY?
ARE THESE PRIME FISHING WATERS?
I DON'T KNOW ABOUT THIS.
ALL THE BOAT TRAFFIC AND ALL
THESE PEOPLE AND SO CLOSE TO THE
ACTION I CAN'T SEE MUCH OF
ANYTHING LIVING DOWN THERE.
>> OKAY.
WE ANCHOR HERE.
>> BUT I AM FAMOUS FOR MY
OPTIMISM SO I DUTIFULLY SUITED
UP FOR WHAT WAS ADVERTISED AS A
THREE-HOUR CRUISE.
SO I GET IN THE WATER, AND I'M
PADDLING AROUND.
AND SPLASH.
SUDDENLY THERE'S A DEAD SEA
CREATURE SINKING SLOWLY SO THE
SEABED IN FRONT OF ME.
ARE THEY KIDDING ME?
I'M THINKING CAN THIS BE
HAPPENING?
SPLASH, ANOTHER RIGOR MORTIS
HALF-FROZEN FREAKIN' OCTOPUS BUT
IT GOES ON.
ONE DEAD CUTTLEFISH, OCTOPUS,
FROZEN SEA URCHIN AFTER ANOTHER,
SPLASH, SPLASH, SPLASH.
EACH SPECIMEN DROPS AMONG THE
ROCKS OR ALONG THE SEA FLOOR, TO
BE HEROICALLY DISCOVERED AND
PROUDLY SHOWN OFF TO CAMERA,
LIKE I'M NOT ACTUALLY WASHING AS
THE CONFEDERATE IN THE NEXT BOAT
OVER HURLS THEM INTO THE WATER
ONE AFTER ANOTHER.
I'M NO MARINE BIOLOGIST, BUT I
KNOW DEAD OCTOPUS WHEN I SEA
ONE.
PRETTY SURE THEY DON'T DROP FROM
THE SKY AND SINK STRAIGHT TO THE
BOTTOM.
>> HOW MANY DO WE HAVE?
THREE?
>> YEAH.
>> OKAY.
>> I TRIED TO GET SOME PATATE
NOW AND ALSO SMALL ABALONE.
>> STRANGELY EVERYONE BELIEVES
THE HIDEOUS SHAM UNFOLDING
BEFORE OUR EYES, DOUG OUR BEST
TO IGNORE THE BLINDINGLY
OBVIOUS.
>> DON'T SWIM AT IT.
>> THEN THEY GAVE UP AND DUMPED
THE WHOLE BAG OF DEAD FISH INTO
THE SEA.
AT THIS POINT I BEGIN
DESPERATELY LOOKING FOR SIGNS OF
LIFE, HOPING THAT ONE OF THEM
WOULD STIR, BECOME REVIVED.
I'M FRANTICALLY SWIMMING AROUND
THE BOTTOM LITTERED WITH DEAD
THINGS LOOKING FOR ONE THAT'S
STILL TWITCHING SO CAN I HOLD IT
UP TO THE CAMERA AND END THIS
MISERY, BUT, NO, MY SHAME WILL
BE ABSOLUTE.
FOR SOME REASON I FEEL SOMETHING
SNAP, AND I SLIDE QUICKLY INTO A
SPIRAL OF NEAR HYSTERICAL
DEPRESSION.
IS THIS WHAT IT'S COME TO, I'M
THINKING, AS ANOTHER DEAD SQUID
NARROWLY MISSES MY HEAD?
ALMOST A DECADE LATER BACK IN
THE SAME COUNTRY, AND I'M STILL
DESPERATELY STAGING FISHING
SCENES, CREEDING THE OCEANS WITH
SUPERMARKET SEAFOOD, COMPLICIT
IN A SHAMEFUL, SHAMEFUL INCIDENT
OF FAKERY.
BUT THERE I WAS, BOBBING
LIFTLESSLY IN THE WATER.
DEAD SEA LIFE SINKING TO THE
BOTTOM ALL AROUND ME.
YOU'VE GOT TO BE PRETTY IMMUNE
TO THE WORLD TO NOT SEE SOME
KIND OF OBVIOUS METAPHOR.
I'VE NEVER HAD ANERRIOUS
BREAKDOWN BEFORE, BUT I TELL YOU
FROM THE BOTTOM OF MY HEART
SOMETHING TOOK PART DOWN THERE,
AND IT TOOK A LONG, LONG TIME
AFTER THE END OF THIS DAMN
EPISODE TO RECOVER.
♪
>> NO NEED TO BOIL.
WE'LL BE READY WITHOUT IT.
[ SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE ]
>> RAW CLAMS, ABALONE AND A
HEART-WARMING BEET SCENE
SURROUNDED WITH A GAGGLE OF
CURIOUS KIDS.
IT WAS AT THIS POINT TIME FOR
TURE TO REDEEM HIMSELF.
YOU'LL NOTICE, I'M NOT THERE.
I'M SITTING IN A NEARBY CAFE
POUNDING ONE NEGRONE AFTER IN A
SMOULDERING MISERABLE RAGE.
OUR EVENING MEAL WILL BE AT
TURE'S PLACE WHICH IS JUST UP
THE HILL IN TURMINA, BUT BY THE
TIME DINNER IS NEAR, I'M RIPPED
TO THE -- DID I MENTION IT'S MY
BIRTHDAY?
ARE COUPLE HOURS ON A BOAT, A
COUPLE MORE HOURS GETTING LOOPED
AND A COUPLE MORE HOURS ON THE
RESTAURANT SO I'M GONE, BABY,
GONE.
SO I DON'T REMEMBER ANY OF THIS.
ANY OF IT.
>> SO HOW IS YOUR DAY TODAY?
>> GOOD.
A NICE BOAT TRIP.
A LITTLE SWIM.
>> I WOULD BE TOLD LATER THAT A
GENTLEMAN NAMED TOMASO JOINED ME
FOR DINNER AND ALSO SOMEONE ON
THE CRUSADE HIS WIFE WAS PRESENT
AND SHE DIDN'T SAY MUCH.
PREFERABLY BECAUSE THIS WASN'T
HER PREFERRED WAY TO SPEND HER
BIRTHDAY.
>> HI.
>> TONY.
>> THIS IS MY PASSION.
I LIKE TO FIND THE OLD VARIETY
OF OLIVE, AND ONE OF THIS IS
WHITE.
>> SO THAT'S ORIGINAL.
>> ORIGINAL.
>> YOU DON'T FIND IT ANYPLACE
ELSE.
>> APPARENTLY THERE WERE THESE
WHITE OLIVES HARVESTED FROM SOME
SECRET TREE ONLY TURE KNOWS
ABOUT.
MAYBE IT'S NEXT TO HIS SECRET
FISHING HOLE.
THERE WAS GREAT SICILIAN WINE
APPARENTLY, AND APPARENTLY I
DRANK QUITE A LOT OF IT.
THERE WAS BREAD AND OLIVE OIL,
ABALONE SERVED RAW IN THE SHELL,
BABY SARDINE, ALSO SERVED RAW
WITH A SPLASH OF CITRUS AND
SALT.
>> AND THIS IS THE BABY SARDINE,
TOTALLY RAW WITHOUT NO MATCH
INGREDIENTS TO TASTE BETTER THE
FISH.
SALUD.
>> THANK YOU.
>> IF YOU ASK A SICILIAN, RIGHT,
SAY WHERE YOU COME FROM?
THE CORRECT ANSWER SHOULD BE I'M
ITALIAN.
>> RIGHT.
>> WE SAY I'M SICILIAN.
>> IS SICILY, ITALY?
>> YES.
>> SHOULD IT BE?
>> I DON'T KNOW, BUT WE USED TO
HAVE INFLUENCE FROM BRITAINS,
NORMANS, ARAB, SPANISH, SO
BASICALLY WE ARE A MIX.
WE'RE A BLENDER.
>> OH, LOOK, MY OCTOPUS.
I REMEMBER PERSONALLY CATCHING
THAT ONE.
IT WAS A MIGHTY STRUGGLE, TOO.
NO, ACTUALLY I DON'T.
>> OCTOPUS.
>> PRETTY, BEAUTIFUL LITTLE
SHRIMP.
VERY TENDER, THE OCTOPUS, VERY
NICE.
>> AND ANOTHER TRADITIONAL
SPECIALTY.
>> I'M TOLD THEY CALL THIS TUNA
TARTAR.
>> AND CUTTLEFISH, RECOGNIZE
YOU, MY FRIEND.
HOW TRADITIONAL IS THIS TO
SICILY?
>> I THINK FROM THE PART OF THE
SEA THEY ALMOST EAT A ROLL.
>> YES.
>> BUT FISH EVERYONEMEN ONLY,
FISHING COMMUNITIES ONLY OR IN
RESTAURANTS.
>> IF NO.
>> ALWAYS AS LONG AS YOU COULD
ARUDE, YOU SEE CRUDO LIKE THIS?
>> I SEE IT IN POOR FAMILIES.
>> THE JAPANESE SORT OF GAVE
EVERYBODY PERMISSION TO EAT
TRADITIONAL FOODS, THEIR OWN
TRADITIONAL FOODS.
WHAT ARE THE GREAT MOTHER
SICILIAN CLASSIC DISHES?
>> THE ANCHOVY.
ANCHOVY AND PARMEGIANA.
>> THAT'S WITH THE SARDINE.
>> BUT IT'S AN EXPLOSION OF
FLOWER, BECAUSE IT'S ARAB.
BORN IN THE PERIOD WHEN SICILY
WAS VERY POOR.
>> THIS I LIKE.
I EVEN REMEMBER IT.
PASTA, A TRUE SICILIAN CLASSIC
MADE WITH FENNEL, PINE NUTS,
SAFFRON AND ANCHOVY.
SERVED ALONGSIDE SOME PAR DINES
THAT HAVE BEEN CURING IN
CHESTNUTS AND SALT FOR DAYS,
THEN LIGHTLY FRIED IN OIL.
>> WE HAVE TO USE OUR HAND, USE
OUR HAND TO EAT THE FISH.
>> NO PROBLEM.
I MUST HAVE SHRUNK BACK TO BED
SOMEHOW, COLLAPSED IN A SODDEN
DRUNKEN HEAP OF SELF-LOATHING.
I NORMALLY WOULD HAVE TURNED ON
THE *** CHALLENGE AND TURNED ON
THE TV BUT THERE IS NO TV AT THE
AGRI TOURISMO.
>>> I LOVE THE FILMS "GODFATHER
1" AND "GODFATHER 2" BUT THEY
HAD NOTHING TO DO WITH ANY
ORGANIZED CRIME FROM OPERA.
THEY ARE OPERA, MAGNIFICENT ON
RACE, BUT BASICALLY A MORALITY
TALE ABOUT TOILETY AND
DESTROYING THE THINGS THAT YOU
CLAIM TO LOVE AND WANT TO
PROTECT.
ACTUAL ORGANIZED CRIME MEMBERS
AND LITERALLY SPEAKING A BUNCH
OF LAZY *** SOCIOPATHS WHO HAVE
NO PROBLEM STEALING FROM THEIR
OWN HARDER WORKING NEIGHBORS.
HERE IN SICILY THEY ARE
INTERESTED AND LESS GLAMOROUS
THAN GAMBLING AND PROSTITUTION.
THEY HAVE AND TRADITIONALLY HAVE
BEEN A GIGANTIC PARASITICAL
ORGANIZATION, ONE THAT HAS NOW
GROWN TO BE OF MERE EQUAL SIZE
AS ITS HOST.
MARY IS ORIGINALLY FROM NEW
YORK, BUT SHE'S BEEN LIVING HERE
IN PALERMO FOR HALF A CENTURY
NOW.
SHE'S A FOOD WRITER AND AT ONE
TIME A REFORMER FOR SOCIAL
JUSTICE WHICH IS A DICEY THING
TO BE HERE.
YOU'VE BEEN HERE ALL THIS TIME?
WHY?
>> WELL, I CAME FOR A YEAR.
IT WAS GOING TO BE A YEAR
BETWEEN COLLEGE AND GRADUATE
SCHOOL.
I JUST FINISHED COLLEGE.
I MET A MAN, AND THEREIN LIES
THE WHY.
I MAYOR AID SICILIAN AND HAVE
BEEN HERE EVER SINCE.
>> PICCOLO NAPOLI, A RESTAURANT
THAT'S BEEN HERE FOR A LOT OF
YEARS AND IS KNOWN FOR THE
QUALITY OF ITS FOOD.
TELL ME ABOUT WHERE WE ARE,
FIRST OF ALL.
>> THE FATHER AND MOTHER OF THE
PRESENT OWNER OPENED THIS IN
1951 WHEN THERE WAS A WONDERFUL
PHOTOGRAPH THERE ON THE WALL OF
THE OPENING DAY.
IT STARTED AS A TAVERN AND HAS
BECOME A WELL-KNOWN AND MUCH
APPRECIATED RESTAURANT NOW.
IT'S VERY STRAIGHTFORWARD
SICILIAN COOKING AT ITS BEST.
>> WE START WITH SOME TYPICAL
THINGS, THE KIND OF THINGS I
DEEPLY LOVE, THE KIND OF SIMPLE
GOOD THINGS THAT MAKE ME HAPPY.
PANELLI WHICH IS A FRITTER MADE
FROM CHICKPEAS, CAP NATA, A
SWEET AND SOUR EGGPLANT DISH,
KIND OF LIKE RAT ACTUALLY AND A
PLATE OF OLIVES AND WHITE WINE
PRODUCED FROM A SMALL BATCH
VINEYARD RUN BY MARY AND HER
HUSBAND.
THIS IS A PANELLI?
>> CHICKPEA FLOUR THAT COMES IN
WITH THE ARABS, MAYBE EVEN
EARLIER, BECAUSE CHICKPEAS HAVE
BEEN AROUND FOR A LONG TIME.
>> AND THIS IS THE FAME OUT CAP
NATA AND ABOUT ASSISI ASILIAN AS
IT GETS.
>> CAPANAT AND CANNOLI ARE THE
TWO WELL KNOWN SICILIAN DISHES.
>> THIS IS WHAT I'VE BEEN
WAITING FOR.
THIS IS WHAT I WANTED SICILY TO
BE, SOMETHING TO SOOTHE MY
SHATTERED SOUL.
IT DOESN'T TAKE MUCH, A BOWL OF
GOOD PASTA.
IN THIS CASE THE FAMOUS
SPAGHETTI AL NERO DI SEPIA,
SPAGHETTI AND CUTTLEFISH AND
PASTA WITH SWORDFISH, EGGPLANT
AND TOMATOES.
OH, BEAUTIFUL.
PERFECT.
PERFECT PASTA.
VERY HAPPY WITH THAT.
>> GOOD.
I KNOW YOU'VE BEEN LOOKING
FORWARD TO IT SO I'M GLAD IT'S
GOOD.
IT'S AN EXPENSIVE CITY FOR SOME
THINGS BECAUSE THE CONSUMER IS
PAYING.
>> MORE.
>> MORE SO THAT THE STORE CAN
AFFORD TO PAY ITS EXTORTION
MONEY.
THE BIG CHANGE THAT HAS HAPPENED
IS THAT UP UNTIL THE MID-'80s,
THE LATE '80s, THERE WERE A
GREAT MANY SICILIANS WHO THOUGHT
IF THEY WERE HONEST AND DIDN'T
HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH THE
MAFIA, THEY COULD LIVE WITHOUT
BEING AFFECTED BY THE MAFIA.
APPARENTLY 80% OF THE BUSINESSES
IN PALERMO AND 70% IN THE REST
OF ITALY THAT PAY EXTORTION.
>> THAT'S A LOT.
>> THAT'S A LOT.
>> BUT NOT EVERYBODY PAYS THE
BITE.
A SMALL BUT GROWING COALITION OF
BUSINESSES HAVE JOINED A GROUP,
A GRASS ROOTS ORGANIZATION
TAKING A STAND AGAINST THE
MAFIA'S TRADITIONAL MERE TOTAL
CONTROL OVER THE FOOD CHAIN,
FROM FARM TO TABLE.
I COME OUT OF THE RESTAURANT
BUSINESS IN NEW YORK.
YOU GOT TAXED WITH EVERY LAUNDRY
ORDER EVERY TIME THEY TOOK YOUR
TRASH AWAY.
IT WAS BUILT IN TO ALL YOUR
BASIC SERVICES.
>> HERE IT'S MUCH MORE GOING
AROUND.
CHRISTMAS AND EASTER.
>> GUY COMES BY.
>> THE GUY COMES BY.
>> IT'S PLAIN AND SIMPLE
EXTORTION.
>> GIVEN THAT THAT'S A PRETTY
STRAIGHTFORWARD SITUATION, SOME
OF THESE GUYS WHO BANDED
TOGETHER, WHAT HAPPENS, THE GUY
SHOWS UP AND SAYS I'M NOT PAYING
YOU.
WHAT HAPPENS NEXT?
>> WELL, APPARENTLY NOW THE
MAFIA HAS DECIDED THAT IT ISN'T
WORTHWHILE BOTHERING WITH THE
PEOPLE WHO BELONG TO THE GROUP.
THERE'S SO MANY OTHERS OUT THERE
AND WHY LOOK FOR TROUBLE.
HOW TRUE IT IS, I DON'T KNOW.
>> RIGHT.
>> TO BELONG TO THE GROUP, YOU
HAVE TO SIGN A PLEDGE THAT YOU
WILL NOT PAY AND THAT IF YOU ARE
APPROACHED, WILL YOU GO TO THE
POLICE.
>> RIGHT.
>> THEN THEY SEND YOU TO LAWYERS
AND TO ANOTHER ORGANIZATION
WHICH DEALS WITH THE PEOPLE WHO
ARE ACTUALLY HAVING TROUBLE.
IT'S INCREDIBLY COMPLICATED.
I MEAN, THERE ARE NO EASY
ANSWERS.
>> RIGHT.
WHAT ABOUT BIG FARM?
WHAT ABOUT SOME OF THE THINGS
THAT ARE -- THAT ARE HAPPENING
ON A MUCH MORE LEGITIMATE LEVEL?
>> I MEAN, WHO IS MORE
DESTRUCTIVE WORLDWIDE?
YOU CAN MAKE A VERY GOOD
ARGUMENT.
>> THAT'S HORRIBLE.
I'M UPSET BECAUSE I SOUND AS IF
I'M MAKING APOLOGIES FOR THE
MAFIA.
IT'S JUST I THINK WHAT HAS
HAPPENED, THAT HAVING LIVED 50
YEARS IN SICILY, I'M MUCH MORE
SKEPTICAL THAN MOST AMERICANS.
>> RIGHT.
>> I DON'T KNOW.
>> I KNOW WHAT YOU'RE SAYING.
YOU'RE SAYING YOU'RE NOT SO SURE
THAT A MAFIA-FREE ITALY WOULD BE
THAT MUCH MORE FUNCTIONAL?
>> ABSOLUTELY.
>> I'M NOT SO SURE.
>> I'M NOT SO SURE AT ALL.
>> BUT I AM CONSTANTLY AMUSED BY
THE FACT THAT 45 YEARS AGO, IF I
SAID TO AMERICANS, OH, I LIVE IN
SISSY, SICILY, HOW DID A NICE
GIRL LIKE YOU END UP IN A PLACE
LIKE THAT?
>> REALLY.
>> NOW IT'S OH, ON A FARM IN
SICILY, HOW ROMANTIC.
OH, I ENVY YOU.
SO PERCEPTION OF SICILY --
>> IT HAS CHANGED.
>> IT HAS CHANGED.
>> IN 2007 THERE WERE ONLY 160
GROUP MEMBERS, AND NOW OVER 800.
PRETTY COOL CONSIDERING WE'RE
TALKING ABOUT A GROUP WHO HAVE
DEMONSTRATED NO REGRET OR
HESITATION IN KILLING JUDGES,
POLITICIANS, POLICE,
PROSECUTORS.
BACK TO CATANIA, AND WHEN YOU'RE
TALKING LATE-NIGHT DINING
OPTIONS, YOU'RE TALKING ONE
THING, THE ENTICING SMELL OF
SMOKE WAFTING THROUGH THE
STREETS, A SMELL THAT'S
ENTICINGLY EQUINE.
I SMELL RAINBOW DASH.
>> YES, YES.
YES.
>> ANTHONY AND MARCO, A COUPLE
OF SICILIANS AND AFICIONADOS.
>> THIS IS ONE OF THE OLDER
SIDE, FAMOUS, YOU KNOW, FAMILIES
OF MAFIA THAT GROWS IN CRIME
ORGANIZATION HERE.
>> OH, RIGHT HERE?
>> YEAH, YEAH, YEAH.
>> NOWADAYS SEEMS TO BE LIKE A
BIT MORE QUIET BECAUSE THEY ARE
ALL GETTING ARRESTED SO THEY
PREFER TO SELL MEAT AGAINST
DRUGS.
>> SO RIGHT OVER THERE YOU CAN
BET ON A HORSE.
>> WE CAN BET HORSES, YES.
>> BET HORSES, AND HERE YOU EAT
THE ONE THAT LOSE.
>> RIGHT.
>> THE LOSER GOES ON THE FIRE.
THAT'S NOT A NICE THING, BUT, I
MEAN, SOMETIMES IT HAPPENS FOR
REAL.
>> CYCLE OF LIFE.
>> ALL RIGHT.
>> SO WHY HORSE?
WHERE DOES THIS TRADITION COME
FROM?
>> MAYBE ALSO EGYPTIANS AND THEN
WE HAVE GREEKS, 750 YEARS BEFORE
CHRIST.
THEN WE HAVE ROMANS.
>> BECAUSE?
>> WE HAVE TO SAY IS I ASILIANS
ARE BIG ***.
OF COURSE, WE'RE BEING CONQUERED
BY EVERYBODY.
ALSO OUR DIALECT.
THERE ARE MANY WORDS THAT ARE
UNDERSTOOD BY OTHER PEOPLE.
IF I SAY IS I ASILIAN DIALECT
WORD, MAYBE AN ARAB CAN
UNDERSTAND ME, AND THE ITALIAN
LANGUAGE COMES FROM LATIN,
SOMETHING DIFFERENT.
WE ARE SICILIANS BEFORE
ITALIANS, REMEMBER THIS.
I'LL NEVER FORGET.
>> LOOK AT THIS SIDE OF THE
MEAT.
IT'S YELLOW, IT'S NOT WHITE.
WHEN IT'S YELLOW, IT MEANS THAT
THE HORSE HAS BEEN EATING FRESH
GRASS.
>> PREPARE AND GO.
>> YOU LIKE THE FAITH?
>> IT'S GOOD.
>> IT'S A BIT SWEET.
>> YOU DON'T NEED NOTHING.
HORSE MEAT.
LOVED BY QUITE EVERYBODY HERE,
YOU KNOW.
DEWITH HAVE IT FOR MEAT BALLS,
AND WE CAN HAVE A HORSE MEAT
BALL.
>> AS YOU WISH.
I'LL TRY ANYTHING.
>> MAKE SOME DIFFERENT THINGS,
YOU KNOW.
>> BREAD, PARMESAN CHEESE,
PECORINO.
>> RIGHT.
>> PARSLEY, EGGS, AND, OF
COURSE, HORSE.
>> HORSE.
>> IT IS VERY TASTY.
>> LET'S PUT IT THIS WAY.
WHEN MY DAUGHTER ASKS ME FOR A
PONY, I'M BRINGING HER HERE AND
ASKING FOR A GRILL AND SAYING
HERE IS YOUR PONY.
>>> THIS NATIONAL PARK AND
WITHIN A FREE RANGE PIG FARM.
THEY BREED SPECIAL HERITAGE PIGS
HERE, THE BLACK BOAR.
A COMBINATION OF WILD SICILIAN
BOAR AND DOMESTICATED SWINE
THOUGHT TO BE BROUGHT HERE FROM
SPAIN LONG AGO, THIS BREED OF
PIG IS RAISING THE PROFILE OF
THE PIG HERE.
>> IT'S EVERY WE ARE.
LOOK, LOOK, HERE NOW, THE NOISE.
THEY WILL ARRIVE.
FANTASTICA.
>> LIKE ANY GOOD-TASTING
HIGH-QUALITY PIG, THE SECRET IS
LARGELY WHAT WERE THEY FED?
HOW DID THEY LIVE?
WERE THEY HAPPY?
>> I'M A HUNTER.
I'VE NEVER SEEN SO MANY IN ONCE.
IT'S LIKE I FEEL --
>> YOU SHOULD BE SHOOTING
SOMETHING.
>> YEAH.
>> A POORLY FED PIG WHO LIVED
HIS LIFE IN SQUALOR, STRESS AND
FEAR MAKES FOR BAD PORK.
THIS IS WHY WE SHOULD TREAT
ANIMALS WELL, NOT JUST BECAUSE
THAT'S THE NICE THING TO DO, BUT
BECAUSE IT MAKES THEM PROVABLY
MORE DELICIOUS.
[ SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE ]
>> CHESTNUTS, ACORNS, ROOTS AND
STUFF FORAGED FROM THE HILLS,
SUPPLEMENTED BY SOME NICE
FATTENING GRAIN DURING THE
WINTER MONTHS WHEN WILD FOOD IS
LESS EASY AND LESS PLENTIFUL.
>> THEY CATCH HERE THE ANIMAL.
>> RIGHT.
>> IT'S A SHAME THAT THEY DON'T
LET YOU SHOOT.
>> I LIKE PIGS.
NOT TO HANG OUT WITH, TO EAT.
I DON'T HAVE A TATTOO OF A PIG
OR ANYTHING, BUT I LIKE THEM
FINE, AND WHEN GIVEN THE
OPPORTUNITY TO SHOOT ONE IN THE
BRAIN OR SEE ONE SHOT IN THE
BRAIN SO THAT I MAY SUCK ON ITS
ENTRAILS AND OTHER PARTS, I'M
DOWN.
THAT'S WHAT IS CALLED CHEERING
ME UP FROM SOME MANIC
DEPRESSION.
>> ***, AND THIS PIG IS LIKE
PAULY, YOU WON'T SEE HIM NO
MORE.
EVEN WITH THE BRAIN DEAD, THE
HEART STILL GOES ON BEATING,
SORT OF LIKE PICK A KARDASHIAN.
IN THE CASE, HOWEVER, THE LAST
FEW BEATS OF THE HEART ARE
ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY TO PUMP ALL
THAT RED, RED CARVE IN A BUCKET
FOR SANGUINACCO.
LOOKING GOOD.
>> THERE'S A KARDASHIAN JOKE
THERE SOMEWHERE.
KIM GETS READY FOR THE BIG DAY.
IT'S DATE NIGHT AT KHLOE'S
HOUSE.
VEAL HOUSEWIFE GETS READY FOR
SUMMER.
GROOMING TIPS FROM THERESA
GUIDICE.
LET'S HOPE KANYE NEVER HAS TO
SEE THIS.
>> WE HANG NOW.
>> BYE.
>> THEN GET TO WORK.
>> OKAY.
>> VERY FAST.
>> ALL THOSE GOOD BITS, THE
LUNGS, KIDNEYS, THEY GET COOKED
SLOWLY IN FAT WITH GARLIC, CHILI
PEPPER, A LITTLE WINE.
IS THE MEAT ALSO THE LIVER?
>> ALL THE INTERIOR WITH A
LITTLE BIT OF FAT?
>> WITH A LITTLE BIT OF THE FAT.
>> IT'S A PORK CONFIT.
OH, THAT'S PRETTY.
MEANWHILE THE INTESTINAL CASINGS
GET FILLED WITH BLOOD AND GENTLY
POACHED UNTIL CREAMY BLOODY
DELICIOUS.
AND A NICE SPREAD OF HOMEMADE
CURED MEATS, LOCAL CHEESE AND
HOMEMADE WINE.
LET THE PARTY BEGIN.
>> SO, WHAT DO WE HAVE HERE?
LET'S IDENTIFY THESE PRODUCTS.
CAP KOALA.
>> CAPICOLA, PROSCIUTTO.
PANCETTA.
OH, THAT LOOKS GOOD.
>> THE CHEESE IS LOCAL,
PROVOLONE.
THIS IS THE RICOTTA AND JUST
COOKED IN THE OVEN.
>> THE BREAD.
>> THE BREAD IS FROM THE ANKLE,
AND THEY HAVE ALSO SALAMI AND
THEY HAVE SAUSAGES.
>> AND THIS CHEESE?
>> CANNISTRAT SGLO AND WHAT DO
YOU CALL THAT DISH?
>> JUST IN THE PAN.
>> BEAUTIFUL.
>> OH, IT'S GOOD.
>> BEST MOMENT OF THE DAY.
>> INDEED.
>> OH, YEAH.
>> WHAT DID YOU THINK ABOUT?
>> IT'S GOOD.
FOR ME THE RICOTTA, IT'S REALLY
GOOD.
>> HERE IN SICILY, I EXPECT THAT
VERY FEW PEOPLE KNOW THIS IS
INCREDIBLE, EVEN THE BREAD IS
THE OLD LADY THAT SHE MADE.
>> OH.
.
YOU THINK OF SICILY, YOU THINK
OF FAMILY, YOU THINK OF FOOD.
THIS IS MORE LIKE IT.
>> WE'LL STOP HERE FOR SHRIMP.
>> CATANIA, THE EARLY MORNING
MARKET.
IT'S BEEN GOING ON FOR LONGER
THAN AMERICA HAS AS A COUNTRY.
IT'S OLD, OLD ITALIA.
DO THEY KNOW YOU HERE?
DO YOU SHOP HERE OFTEN?
>> YEAH.
>> THIS IS NOT TOMASO'S FIRST
TRIP TO THE MARKET BY A LONG
SHOT.
HIS MOM IS A REGULAR.
SHE COMES HERE ALMOST EVERY DAY.
>> THANKS.
>> AND THIS IS THE NEXT STOCK
MARKET YOU CAN FIND HERE
EVERYTHING.
EACH BUTCHER, MORE LIKELY THEY
HAVE THEIR OWN SPECIALTY.
FRESH INGREDIENTS, YOU KNOW.
>> THEY DO LAMB.
>> LAMB, SAUCEAGE IS AND HAMBURG
ER.
THIS IS AT LEAST SIX MONTHS OLD,
AT LEAST.
OVER HERE.
THIS IS THE PLACE WHERE SHE BUY
THE SPICES FOR HER HOME, AND THE
VEGGIES.
>> THIS IS WHAT THE MARKET IS
BEST KNOWN FOR, SEAFOOD.
>> BONGIOURNO.
THIS ONE IS ONE OF THE BIGGEST
SELLERS THAT WE HAVE IN THE FISH
MARKET.
CAN YOU SEE ALSO THE VARIETY.
>> YEAH.
>> WE CONSIDER THE TUNA LIKE A
PIG.
WE DON'T THROW AWAY ANYTHING.
>> SEE, THIS IS TYPICAL.
YOU CAN FIND IT HERE.
>> OH, THOSE ARE THE TINY, TINY
LITTLE CLAMS.
>> RIGHT.
>> YES.
>> YOU CAN SEE THE SHRIMP ARE
STILL ALIVE.
>> SO I SEE SEPIA.
>> YEAH, BABY SARDINES.
SWORDFISH.
I'M JOINING TOMASO FOR LUNCH
TATE.
MOM'S COOKING, SO WE'VE GOT TO
DO SOME SHOPPING.
>> BONGIOURNO.
>> THEY LOOK BEAUTIFUL.
>> YEAH.
>> THE COLOR IS BEAUTIFUL.
>> AND BONGIOURNO.
>> SO WE'LL GO HAVE SOME TODAY,
SO SHRIMP.
>> AND BABY SARDINES.
>> GRACIAS.
>> BONGIOURNO.
>> I'LL TELL YOU.
>> WHAT DO YOU WANT TO TRY?
>> BLOOD SAUSAGE?
>> JUST BLOOD, NO ONION, NO
SPICE, NOTHING?
A LITTLE SALT.
>> WHOA, WHOA, WHOA.
>> OH, A LITTLE PEPPER.
>> SI.
>> YOU SQUEEZE IT.
>> NO, NO, NO.
>> OH, MAN.
>> INTERESTING RUNNER UP.
>> OH, THAT'S GOOD.
>> USUALLY I DON'T LIKE IT
PLAIN, LIKE IT IN A SAUCE AND
SPICY.
THAT'S VERY TASTY.
LOOKS LIKE HELL.
TASTES LIKE HEAVEN.
IF YOU LIKE THIS, YOU'RE
SICILIAN.
>> VERY, VERY.
>>> I DON'T HAVE ANY
GRANDPARENTS.
MY MOM, I GUESS SHE COOKS, BUT
LAST TIME SHE EVER INVITED ME
FOR DINNER WAS LIKE 1972 SO
GIVEN THAT DYSFUNCTIONAL, TRAGIC
TOO MUCH KIND OF HISTORY IS IT
ANY MYSTERY WHY I'M ON THE
LOOKOUT FOR GRANDMA?
ANYBODY'S GRANDMOTHER'S WOULD
DO.
I'VE BEEN KNOWN TO HITCH-HIKE
HIGHWAYS LOOKING FOR ANY
GRANNIES AND GIVEN MY FRAGILE
EMOTIONAL SENSE IT MAKES SENSE
THAT I WOULD DRAGOON TOMASO'S
MOM INTO MAKING ME A LUNCH.
IS THAT INTRIGUING OR SAD?
>> SMELLS GOOD IN HERE.
CHEERS.
>> CHEERS.
>> NEED ANY HELP CHOPPING
PARSLEY?
>> OH, PERFECT.
FOR LUNCH WE'VE GOT THE SHRIMP
AND SARDINES FROM EARLIER AT THE
MARKET, BUT FIRST THIS.
JUST GRAB ONE?
IT'S LIKE ARANCINI BUT WITH HOLE
OWED OUT POTATOES.
>> BASICALLY, AND WITH ALL THE
CHEESE.
>> AND DEEP IN AND SEALED THE
POTATOES AND THEN FRIED.
>> MY MOTHER COOKS FOR
EVERYBODY, EVEN IF IT WAS
SO WHEN WE HAVE TO SHARE ALL
TOGETHER AND HAVE A DINNER, MY
MOTHER IS COOKING FOR EVERYBODY.
BECAUSE THE PROBLEM IS WHEN SHE
COOK, EVEN IF SHE KNOW IT'S ONLY
FOR FIVE PEOPLE, SHE COOKING FOR
TEN.
>> JUST IN CASE.
THIS IS SICILY, AFTER ALL.
THIS IS THE CLASSIC STARTER.
ALSO A BREAD AND TOMATO SALAD.
>> WOULD YOU LIKE TO TRY
SOMETHING?
>> THAT'S OLD SCHOOL.
>> WE USE BREAD THAT A HARDER.
WE USUALLY DO BREAD THAT IS TWO
DAYS OLD.
>> IT'S REALLY GOOD.
REALLY, REALLY GOOD.
THAT'S SICILY RIGHT THERE.
>> RIGHT.
YES.
>> FRESH SHRIMP SAUTES IN BUTTER
AND GARLIC.
>> WHEN THEY ARE CONFRONTED WITH
THE SHRIMP, FRY AWAY.
>> THAT'S THE WAY YOU SEE IF
IT'S FRESH OR NOT.
>> SO TYPICAL DAY, WHEN YOU WERE
15 YEARS OLD WHAT DID YOU EAT
FOR WILUNCH?
>> FISH AND PASTA.
BASICALLY YOU HAVE TO GO RIGHT
BEHIND THE CORNER TO FIND YOUR
PRODUCTS.
WHATEVER WE COULD PRODUCE IN
ZITLY, THAT'S WHAT WE CHOOSE TO
BUY.
>> WATCH THIS.
ZIP THE BONE RIGHT OUT.
OUT COMES ALL THE BONE.
WHO NEEDS A KNIFE?
>> SARDINES FILETED NEATLY,
SAUTEED IN GARLIC AND OIL.
I'LL TELL YOU, ANOTHER TWO HOURS
HERE I'LL BE SPEAKING SICILIAN.
YOU HAVE TO EAT IT HOT.
THIS IS VERY NICE.
IF YOU DON'T LIKE THIS, THERE'S
NO HOPE FOR YOU.
[ SPEAKING IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE ]
>> IF YOU LIKE IT.
TELL HER.
>> HAPPY.
THIS IS A DELICIOUS MEAL.
AND TO EAT IN THIS BEAUTIFUL
HOME WITH SOME REALLY GOOD HOME
COOKED FOOD.
>>> MY LAST NIGHT IN SICILY.
AFTER THIS I'M CALLING IN BED
AND TAKING THE FETAL POSITION
FOR SIX WEEKS.
I MAY LOOK NORMAL -- OKAY, I
DON'T EXACTLY.
BUT I'M NOT BARKING OR SHRIEKING
WITH MY PANTS WRAPPED AROUND MY
HEAD WHICH IS WHAT MY INSTINCTS
ARE TELLING ME I SHOULD BE
DOING.
ONE OF LIFE'S GREAT JOYS IS
CHEESE.
NO, I'M EATING CHEESE.
WHICH MAKES ME HAPPY.
ALWAYS.
AND DRINK WINE.
GOOD WINE.
AND A HELL OF A LOT OF IT.
I'LL MAKE IT OVER THE HUMP WITH
ANY LUCK AT ALL.
WE HAVE A MOZZARELLA HERE, A
PEPPERCCINO.
TORI JOINS ME FOR A FINAL MEAL.
THIS IS NOT A CONCEPT THAT
EXISTS IN AMERICA, BUT IT IS A
CONCEPT THAT SHOULD EXIST.
OKAY, NOW PLEASE EXPLAIN WHAT IT
IS.
>> A HOTEL LINKED TO THE
TERRITORY.
USE LOCAL PRODUCT, LOCAL RECIPE.
>> PENNE, SUN DRIED TOMATOES ALL
FROM THE FARM.
OH, MAN THAT LOOKS GOOD.
>> WOW.
FANTASTIC.
>> SOME NICE OLIVE OIL ALSO FROM
THE FARM.
MORE WINE.
I MIGHT JUST MAKE IT.
THIS IS CALLED AGRIDOLCE.
IT'S BITTER.
IF YOU TALK ABOUT ITALY, IT IS
THE MOST INTERESTING PART OF
ITALIAN CUISINE.
LIFE IS TOO GOOD.
I NEED A LITTLE BITTERNESS TO
REMIND MYSELF OF THE INTERNAL
TRAGEDY OF OUR EXISTENCE.
>> THE SWEET AND SOUR OF THE
LIFE.
>> ONE FINAL ATTEMPT BEFORE I GO
TO EXTRACT SOMETHING MEANINGFUL
ON WHAT IT MEANS TO BE SICILIAN.
>> WHAT'S WRONG WITH THESE
PEOPLE IN THE NORTH?
>> PEOPLE FROM THE SOUTH ARE
COMING FROM THESE GREEK CULTURE
WHERE THE PHILOSOPHER WHILE IN
THE NORTH CAME THROUGH AND --
>> THAT'S THE MEANEST THING
ANYONE CAN SAY.
OH.
>> AND THE LAST CENTURY, THE
THREE BEST WRITERS IN ITALY ARE
FROM SICILY.
>> BECAUSE THEY CONSIDER US A
WEIGHT LIKE PROBLEMS.
YET IN SUMMERS THEY ALL COME
HERE.
IT'S A GOOD THING FOR US, YOU
KNOW?
>> IN THE END, IT ALL COMES BACK
TO THE GODFATHER.
WE GO UP THIS BEAUTIFUL
MOUNTAIN, THIS INCREDIBLE TOWN.
IT GOES BACK TO THE 12th
CENTURY.
THERE ARE FEW PLACES ON EARTH
MORE BEAUTIFUL.
BUT WE ARE SITTING IN ONE OF
THE -- IT WAS LIKE A GODFATHER
THEME PARK.
>> YOU KNOW, WE JUST LOOK AT
PEOPLE WITH THE GODFATHER
T-SHIRT.
AND SAY OH, MY GOD.
WHY PEOPLE GET STUCK ON THIS,
THE GODFATHER MOVIE.
>> MICHAEL HAD MANY OPTIONS.
HE DESTROYED HIS FAMILY.
AND EVERYTHING HE TOUCHED.
>> IN A WAY IT'S FAIR.
>> IT'S FAIR?
>> A GOOD MOVIE.
>> HE DIDN'T [ MUTE ] IT UP.
>> NO.