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(Andrew) VENICE, ITALY--
THE FAMOUSLY ROMANTIC CITY OF CANALS,
GONDOLAS, STUNNING PALAZZO,
AND UNFORGETTABLY SUBLIME FOOD.
BUT I UNCOVERED A WHOLE WORLD HERE
THAT OUTSIDERS ARE UNAWARE OF
AND SOME BRAVE SOULS
ARE DESPERATELY FIGHTING TO PRESERVE,
LIKE A LAGOON FILLED WITH CREATURES SO FRESH
YOU CAN EAT THEM AS FAST AS YOU CAN CATCH THEM...
I'M THIS GUY'S WORST NIGHTMARE.
LIKE FOOD THAT BITES BACK...
(man speaking indistinctly)
WHERE CUTTLEFISH KIDNEYS ARE PRIZED DELICACIES...
AND THE LOCALS EAT AN ANIMAL'S MEAT
THAT MOST AMERICANS WOULDN'T TOUCH.
FANTASTIC.
AND I UNCOVER THE SECRET ABOUT A DISH
COOKED ONLY ONCE A YEAR IN THE WHITE-HOT OVENS
OF THE FAMOUS GLASSBLOWERS ON THE ISLE OF MURANO.
GOD, THAT SMELLS GOOD.
MWAH.
OH, HO HO!
IT HAPPENS SUDDENLY, RIGHT IN FRONT OF YOU...
A FASCINATING FRIEND, AN AMAZING MEAL.
AND BEFORE YOU KNOW IT,
YOU'RE ALIVE IN A WAY YOU NEVER IMAGINED.
I LIVE FOR THOSE MOMENTS,
PURSUING THE EXOTIC AND UNFAMILIAR,
ESPECIALLY WHEN IT COMES TO THE FOOD.
IF IT LOOKS GOOD, I EAT IT.
♪♪
VENICE, ITALY, IS A MAGICAL CITY,
A COLLECTION OF ISLANDS SITTING IN A LAGOON
WHERE THE STREETS ARE PAVED WITH WATER.
THERE ARE NO CARS, ONLY BOATS,
BRIDGES, WALKWAYS, AND 150 CANALS.
VENICE IS A CITY MARRIED TO THE SEA.
THE ENCLOSED HARBOR AND STRATEGIC LOCATION
MADE IT EUROPE'S PRIMARY PORT FOR TRADE
WITH ASIA AND THE MIDDLE EAST.
AND FOR A FEW HUNDRED YEARS,
THE DOGES OF VENICE TRULY RULED THE WORLD,
CASTING A GOLD WEDDING RING INTO THE LAGOON EVERY YEAR,
SYMBOLIZING THIS SPECIAL RELATIONSHIP WITH THE SEA.
I FEEL MY OWN KIND OF SPECIAL RELATIONSHIP
WITH THIS CITY.
AS A YOUNG BOY, ONE OF THE FIRST TRIPS WE EVER TOOK
INCLUDED A STOP IN VENICE,
AND I STILL REMEMBER BEING AWESTRUCK BY THE CANALS...
THE PIAZZA DI SAN MARCO, THE PALACES,
AND THE STUNNING OPERA HOUSE TEATRO DELLA FENICE.
BUT BEST OF ALL, VENICE IS WHERE I FELL IN LOVE
WITH SOME OF THE FINEST SEAFOOD IN THE WORLD.
SO TODAY I THINK OF CERTAIN ICONIC FOODS
IN A HANDFUL OF RESTAURANTS HERE
THE WAY OTHER PEOPLE THINK OF THEIR FIRST FRENCH KISS
AT SLEEPAWAY CAMP.
THERE'S TAVERNA DELLA FENICE.
MY FATHER TOOK ME HERE WHEN I WAS A LITTLE KID,
AND EVERY TIME I'M IN TOWN, I HAVE TO KEEP COMING BACK,
ESPECIALLY FOR THE CALF'S LIVER VENEZIANA--
THIN SLICES OF CALF'S LIVER,
ONIONS, A CLASSIC SAUCE WITH JUST A HINT OF VINEGAR.
THEN THERE'S THE INCREDIBLY FRESH SEAFOOD
AT TRATTORIA ALLA MADONNA.
I FIRST CAME HERE IN 1974 WITH MY DAD.
IMAGINE A 13-YEAR-OLD KID
GETTING A FIRST TASTE OF OCTOPUS,
SQUID, AND SNAILS.
AT MADONNA, IT ALWAYS FEELS LIKE THE FIRST TIME.
THE SNAILS ARE DELICIOUS-- STRONG FLAVOR.
I ALSO HAVE VERY FOND MEMORIES OF A LA COLOMBA.
IN 1980, IN THE SUMMER,
I WORKED IN THAT KITCHEN FOR TWO AND A HALF WEEKS
DOING A STAGE.
IT WAS ALMOST 30 YEARS AGO,
AND I STILL FILLET FISH THE WAY THAT I LEARNED HERE
AT A LA COLOMBO.
BUT THE CONTINUALLY ASTOUNDING GROWTH IN TOURISM
MEANS THAT VENICE IS LITERALLY BEING LOVED TO DEATH.
EVERY DAY, 50,000 VISITORS CROWD INTO A CITY
WHOSE NATIVE POPULATION IS ONLY 60,000.
THE PRESSURE IS ADDING TO THE POLLUTING
AND OVERFISHING OF THE LAGOON,
DRIVING AWAY THE VENETIANS,
AND ENDANGERING THEIR TRADITIONAL WAYS OF FISHING,
COOKING, AND EATING.
BUT YOU CAN STILL FIND PEOPLE STRIVING EVERY DAY
TO KEEP THE LAGOON VIBRANT
AND TO PROTECT THE AUTHENTIC FOOD STYLE OF VENICE.
THE MARRIAGE OF CITY AND SEA
STILL ENDURES
BECAUSE OF PEOPLE LIKE CHEF CESARE BENELLI.
A NATIVE SON OF VENICE,
HE'S BEEN RUNNING AL COVO RESTAURANT
WITH HIS TEXAS-BORN WIFE DIANE FOR OVER 25 YEARS.
CESARE IS PASSIONATE ABOUT FENDING OFF OUTSIDE INFLUENCES.
HE HAS STRICT RULES IN THE RESTAURANT.
HE WRITES THEM ON THE MENU,
BUT DIANE GETS TO EXPLAIN THEM TO THE CUSTOMERS.
RIGHT.
RIGHT.
BUT THAT'S BECAUSE HE WANTS YOU TO TASTE
ABSOLUTELY.
BECAUSE THE FLAVOR CAN BE ALTERED,
AND THE FLAVORS OF THE VENETIAN FISH ARE SO DELICATE.
AND HE FRIES IN SUCH A VERY LIGHT, SPECIAL WAY,
IT WOULD BE A SHAME TO IMMEDIATELY COVER IT
RIGHT.
AND IF IT'S NOT CAUGHT IN THE LAGOON OR CLOSE TO IT,
YOU WON'T FIND IT NEAR ANY OF CHEF BENELLI'S DISHES.
THE LAGOON IS AN INLET OF THE ADRIATIC SEA
THAT WINDS AROUND VENICE AND NEARBY ISLANDS,
COVERING ABOUT 340 MILES.
MOST OF IT IS GRASSY SHALLOWS
AND SALTWATER MARSHES.
IT'S VERY IMPORTANT FOR YOU
TO BE SELECTING STUFF THAT IS LOCAL, RIGHT?
RIGHT.
FUNDAMENTAL.
RIGHT.
RIGHT.
EVEN THE FRUITS AND VEGETABLES HE SERVES
ARE GROWN ON NEARBY ISLANDS,
SOLD STRAIGHT FROM THE BOAT.
MM-HMM.
IT'S CALLED A SATURNIA BECAUSE THEY ARE FLAT AND ROUND.
THEY ARE UNBELIEVABLE PEACHES, VERY SWEET.
A TRIP TO HIS FAVORITE FISHMONGER
IS LIKE A PERSONAL INVITATION
INTO THE VENETIAN SEAFOOD FRATERNITY.
(all laughing)
A MORNING OF WORKING WITH SQUID AND CUTTLEFISH INK
LEAVES ITS MARK.
NICE TO MEET YOU.
THE MARKET IS A LIVING CROSS SECTION
OF THE BOUNTY FOUND IN THE LAGOON,
WHICH IS REALLY QUITE AMAZING WHEN YOU COMPARE THIS LAGOON
TO BAYS NEAR OTHER MAJOR CITIES AROUND THE WORLD,
FEW OF WHICH COULD SUPPORT SUCH A VARIETY OF EDIBLE SEA LIFE.
THIS IS... (speaking indistinctly)
THERE ARE DOZENS OF DIFFERENT SHRIMP VARIETIES
THOSE ARE VERY, VERY SWEET.
YOU CAN EAT THEM WHOLE.
OH--LIKE SUGAR.
OH, AND LOOK--EELS.
THESE ARE WILD EELS FROM THE LAGOON.
(Andrew) OH, THAT IS FANTASTIC.
IT'S A LIGHTHEARTED AFFAIR,
BUT CHEF BENELLI TAKES HIS SHOPPING SERIOUSLY.
MM-HMM.
THE SPECIAL OF THE DAY, THE SPECIAL PASTA DAY--
MM-HMM.
SO WHEN YOU COME HERE IN THE MORNING,
YOU TAKE A LOOK AT WHAT INSPIRES YOU,
EXACTLY.
THIS IS WHAT WE'RE PICKING UP TODAY--FRESH CUTTLEFISH.
CUTTLEFISH ARE IN THE SAME FAMILY AS SQUID OR OCTOPUS.
THEY HAVE EIGHT ARMS AND TWO TENTACLES
AND SHOOT INK TO PROTECT THEMSELVES.
THESE ARE RELATIVELY SMALL ONES.
OH, MY GOSH.
(man) EGGS. EGGS.
ALSO--ALSO DELICIOUS.
AND THOSE ARE THE KIDNEY GLANDS.
KIDNEY GLANDS. THESE ARE UNBELIEVABLE.
AND ALSO THE EGGS ARE UNBELIEVABLE.
TODAY WE'LL BE USING THE KIDNEYS
FOR ONE TRADITIONAL VENETIAN DISH.
BUT HERE'S THE PART THAT REALLY MAKES A CUTTLEFISH UNIQUE...
WOW.
THE INK SACS.
THAT'S WICKED COOL.
SOMEBODY HAS TO MAINTAIN THIS, OTHERWISE IT'S GONNA BE--
MANY CHEFS HAVE WATCHED AS THEIR TRADITIONAL FOODS
DROWNED IN THE MASSIVE FLOOD OF TOURISM,
DRIVING THE DEMAND
FOR LESS-THAN-AUTHENTIC VENETIAN CUISINE,
BUT NOT CESARE.
(all) CIAO.
MILLE GRAZIE.
SO WHAT DO YOU DO WITH A CUTTLEFISH KIDNEY?
(Cesare) WE JUST POACH THEM. THEN WE SLICE THEM.
PARSLEY--VERY SIMPLE THINGS.
ADD A SPLASH OF OLIVE OIL,
AND YOUR FRESHLY CLEANED AQUATIC OFFAL
HAVE GONE FROM THIS TO THIS.
OH, MY GOD.
YEAH. YOU'RE LUCKY.
IT'S DELICATE, BUTTERY, ORGAN-Y.
THEY'RE JUST EARTHY AND--AND--
THEN NERO DI SEPPIE--
CUTTLEFISH SERVED IN BLACK INK.
THIS IS THE DISH OF MY DREAMS.
NO KIDDING. EVERY SINGLE DAY THAT I'M IN VENICE
ON ALL OF MY TRIPS,
I MAKE SURE AT LEAST ONCE A DAY I EAT THIS DISH,
BECAUSE YOU CAN'T GET IT THIS WAY
ANYWHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD.
FIRST THE TENTACLES, THEN THE HEAD AND MANTLE
ARE GENTLY SAUTéED IN A PAN OF OLIVE OIL, GARLIC,
OH, THIS SMELLS LIKE STICKING YOUR HAND
INTO A BIG PILE OF SOIL.
A SPLASH OF WINE LAYS THE BASE FOR THE TOMATO SAUCE.
AND THEN A LAYER OF FRESH CUTTLEFISH INK
TURNS THE DISH JET BLACK.
OH.
THERE WE GO. YOU COVER IT UP.
THIS IS VENICE'S MOST ICONIC DISH.
CESARE SERVES HIS WITH GRILLED WHITE POLENTA
AND FRESH VENETIAN PEAS.
SEPPIA NERO CON PISELLI.
(Diane) RICH AND DELICATE AT THE SAME TIME.
IT IS JUST LOAMY AND SOIL-Y AND BRINY.
AND EVEN THOUGH THERE'S--
THERE'S NOTHING FROM THE FOREST HERE,
EATING THIS DISH ALWAYS REMINDS ME
OF SEAFOOD IN THE FOREST. I DON'T KNOW WHY.
IT'S A GOOD POINT.
ALL OF THE DISHES AT AL COVO
REVEAL A PASSION FOR LOCAL INGREDIENTS
AND ARTFUL STAGING,
PREPARED BY THIS COUPLE WHO ARE DEFIANTLY DEVOTED
TO PRESERVING THE FOOD TRADITIONS
OF VENICE'S CELEBRATED PAST.
SERIOUSLY, TO YOU GUYS--
I LEARNED SO MUCH HANGING OUT WITH YOU.
THE CHEFS WHO TRAINED ME TAUGHT ME
THERE'S A RIGHT WAY AND A WRONG WAY TO DO THINGS,
AND ONCE YOU LEARN THAT, YOU CAN DO ANYTHING.
AND YOU ARE-- YOU'RE PRINCIPLED,
AND I--AND I ADMIRE THAT AMONGST PEOPLE ABOVE--
THANK YOU. THANK YOU.
YOU--I MEAN, SERIOUSLY, WHAT A GREAT DAY.
I GO FROM THE BOMB
TO A BLAST,
A DAY UP TO MY KNEES IN THE LAGOON
TO CATCH LOCAL CREATURES
THAT DON'T EVEN MAKE IT TO SHORE.
I'M THIS GUY'S WORST NIGHTMARE.
AND LATER, ONE OF THE BEST-KEPT SECRETS
OF THE FAMOUS MURANO GLASSBLOWERS IS NOT ABOUT ART.
IT'S ABOUT FOOD THEY COOK ONCE A YEAR IN THEIR GLASS OVENS.
WHOO.
♪♪
IT'S DAWN IN VENICE, AND I'M ON MY WAY TO JOIN
A COUPLE OF GUYS WHO MAKE THEIR LIVING IN THE LAGOON,
THE WAY THEIR FATHERS AND GRANDFATHERS DID.
WE'LL BE SLOGGING AROUND THE GRASSY FLATS,
HUNTING FOR LUNCH NEAR THE ISLAND OF BURANO.
WHOA.
FRICKIN' IMPOSSIBLE.
IT TURNS OUT TO BE A LOT HARDER THAN IT SOUNDS,
BUT WELL WORTH THE EFFORT.
THE IDEA HERE IS TO HOP IN THE WATER
EARLY ENOUGH IN THE MORNING BEFORE THE TIDE COMES UP.
YOU ACTUALLY ARE GONNA BE FISHING FOR YOUR HANDS
FOR TEENY LITTLE FISH,
AND APPARENTLY THERE'S LOTS OF MOLLUSKS AND CRUSTACEANS.
THE BIG SURPRISE, I'VE JUST LEARNED--
NOBODY'S EVER FILMED THIS BEFORE.
AT LEAST, THAT'S WHAT THE GUYS TELL ME.
MY GUIDE IS MASSIMILIANO BOVO,
A SOMMELIER, FISHERMAN, AND AVID BOXER.
MAX IS ALSO THE SON OF A RESTAURANT OWNER
ON THE ISLAND OF BURANO,
WHERE HIS PARENTS WILL COOK TODAY'S CATCH.
MAX'S BUDDIES, MICHELE AND DANIELE
HAVE BEEN FISHING THESE WATERS SINCE THEY WERE KIDS.
THE LAGOON HERE IS JUST LITTERED WITH SEA CREATURES.
YOU CAN JUST LIFT CRABS
RIGHT UP OUT OF THE SEA GRASS--
CLAMS, OYSTERS, MUSSELS.
AND THIS LAGOON IS SO CLOSE TO VENICE PROPER,
IT'D BE LIKE CATCHING YOUR DINNER
IN THE NEW YORK HARBOR AROUND THE STATUE OF LIBERTY.
MAX INSTRUCTS US TO FOLLOW HIS FOOTSTEPS
TO AVOID GETTING STUNG, BITTEN,
OR TRAPPED IN THE MUD.
IT'S WORTH ALL THE TROUBLE TO SEE THE ELUSIVE SEA LIFE.
COOL STARFISH.
YOU VERY RARELY SEE THIS.
SEA URCHIN-- BE VERY CAREFUL.
YOU DON'T WANT TO STEP ON THESE.
YOU MAY HAVE HEARD THAT THE LAGOON IS TOO POLLUTED
TO SUSTAIN EDIBLE MARINE LIFE.
WELL, THAT'S JUST PLAIN WRONG.
THE LAGOON IS ALIVE WITH SEA CREATURES.
INCLUDING TINY CRABS, TREATED CAREFULLY BY THESE GUYS,
WHO HAVE A DEEP RESPECT FOR THE LAGOON AND ITS BOUNTY.
SO I'LL TRY AND GIVE IT BACK. THERE YOU ARE, BABE.
BUT THE LAGOON ALSO PROTECTS ITS OWN.
FOR ONE THING, THE MUD IS LIKE QUICKSAND,
I'M NOT KIDDING. I LOST MY SHOE.
AND OUR POOR FIELD PRODUCER PATRICK
DOES STEP ON ONE OF THOSE THORNY URCHINS.
(Andrew) YOU ALL RIGHT? DON'T WORRY.
NOW I KNOW WHY NO FILM CREWS
HAVE EVER COME IN HERE TO SHOOT BEFORE--
'CAUSE IT'S FRICKIN' IMPOSSIBLE.
OKAY, TWO MEN DOWN,
AND WE'RE STILL LOOKING FOR A GIATSE FISH.
LOOK AT HIM LOOKING FOR ONE LITTLE FISH.
I'LL TELL YA, FOR ALL THIS WORK,
IF THIS ISN'T THE BEST-TASTING PIECE OF SEAFOOD
THAT I HAVE IN VENICE,
SOMETHING IS GOING TO BE REALLY WRONG.
THE GIATSE BURROW DOWN INTO THE SAND,
SO YOU HAVE TO GET VERY CLOSE TO TRAP THEM WITH YOUR HANDS.
YOU CATCH THESE. YOU GOTTA HOLD THEIR HEAD VERY FIRMLY
SO THEY DON'T GO ANYWHERE.
17 HOLES...
ONE FISH.
LUCKILY, THE GUYS SAY THEY HAVE MORE OF THESE
BACK AT THE RANCH.
WE USE DIFFERENT NETS TO SCOOP UP CRABS,
SNAILS, AND SHRIMP.
OH, I'M PUSHING FROM THE WRONG SIDE.
(laughing) NO.
♪♪
(Andrew) ONE OF THE PRIZES OF THE LAGOON--
THESE BEAUTIFUL LITTLE GAMBERETTI.
I'M THIS GUY'S WORST NIGHTMARE.
HE GOES AND STRUGGLES AND CATCHES,
AND I EAT THEM.
THEY'RE PRETTY DARN FRESH,
PRETTY DARN SWEET, PRETTY DARN AWESOME.
AND PRETTY DARN HARD FOR A TV CREW
TO GET INTO THESE MARSHES.
ADRIAN LOST A SNEAKER AND FOUND IT.
UH, MIKE LOST BOTH SHOES AND FOUND THEM.
AND I HAVE MY OWN PROBLEM.
(Andrew) THERE'S A WATER-SUCTION FACTOR
GOING ON HERE.
THEY SURE WENT ON EASY. NO, NO, EXACTLY--
GET A VERY BIG KNIFE.
YES, BUONO.
YEAH, OF COURSE, NO PROBLEM.
BUT THE GUYS WHO DIDN'T USE BOOTS,
OUR SOUND MAN AND PRODUCER,
ARE COMING BACK TO BURANO WITH SHARP URCHIN NEEDLES
DRIVEN INTO THEIR FEET.
YOU HAVE TO BE VERSATILE TO DO THIS JOB--
NOT ONLY AN ADVENTUROUS, CURIOUS CHEF
WITH A PASSION FOR CULINARY ANTHROPOLOGY,
(beeping)
WE HAVE TWO CREW MEMBERS DOWN,
UH, WITH SEA URCHIN STINGS,
AND WE'RE TRIAGING THEM
THIS IS RIDICULOUS. I'M FINE.
HE'S--NO, YOU'RE AGITATED.
THESE ARE VERY POISONOUS, AND THEY'RE LIKE SHELLS.
THEY'LL CRUNCH UP, AND THEY CARRY
A TETRODOTOXIN.
AND IF YOU DON'T GET 'EM ALL OUT,
THEY WILL GET INFECTED, AND THEN THEY WILL--
YOU WILL END UP IN THE HOSPITAL.
EVENTUALLY, THEY BOTH DO HAVE TO SEE A DOCTOR.
BUT FOR NOW, THEY FEEL UP TO OUR VISIT WITH MAX'S FATHER,
RUGGERO BOVO, WHO APPRECIATES WHAT IT TAKES
TO CATCH THIS FOOD.
OWNERS OF THE WIDELY RESPECTED AL GATTO NERO RESTAURANT,
THE BOVOS PRIDE THEMSELVES ON USING LAGOON FISH
AND ORGANIC PRODUCE,
PRESERVING ANCIENT FOOD TRADITIONS.
PERFECTO.
SALT, LEMON,
OLIVE OIL--PERFECT.
MAX'S MOTHER LUCIA HAS A SIMPLE BUT EFFECTIVE WAY
TO SHELL RAZOR CLAMS-- MY FAVORITE.
SHE SALTS THEM, AND THEN THEY COME RIGHT OUT.
LOOK AT THAT. OH, GRAZIE.
(Ruggero speaking indistinctly)
WOW.
THE GRAND FINALE IS RISOTTO
MADE WITH THOSE GIATSE
WE HAD SO MUCH TROUBLE FINDING THIS MORNING.
MY FELLOW FISHERMEN
HAVE HAD RUGGERO'S FAMOUS RISOTTO BEFORE,
OH, MY GOSH.
THANKS, ANDREW.
YEAH.
YEAH.
AND THE LITTLE BITS OF FISH THAT ARE IN THERE,
BUT WHAT REALLY SURPRISES ME
IS HOW FATTY THE FISH IS.
EXACTLY.
THAT'S HOW THEY MAKE A GOOD BROTH.
I CAN HONESTLY SAY THIS RANKS AMONGST THE BEST RISOTTOS
I'VE EATEN ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD.
YEAH, THAT'S WHAT THE RESTAURANT'S
ALSO FAMOUS FOR-- THE RISOTTO,
BECAUSE THIS IS SUCH A LOCAL DISH.
THE BOVOS LIVE A 0-KILOMETER FOOD LIFE,
CATCHING AND COOKING FOOD THAT IS LITERALLY UNDERFOOT.
NO OTHER PLACE IN THE WORLD YOU'RE GONNA HAVE THIS DISH.
YEAH.
RIGHT.
MY LANGUAGE AND MY WAY TO FISH.
AND SO TO BE ABLE TO GO OUT
AND CATCH THESE FISH BY HAND, BRING IT BACK,
AND HAVE YOUR DAD'S RISOTTO--
YEAH.
MM-HMM.
MMM.
THESE GUYS FEND OFF GLOBALIZATION
FROM THE KITCHEN TO THE WATER,
PROTECTING THEIR CORNER OF THE LAGOON,
LOCAL FOOD, AND WAY OF LIFE.
MILLE GRAZIE.
ONE VENETIAN PRODUCT ADMIRED THE WORLD OVER
IS MURANO GLASS.
BUT YOU WON'T BELIEVE WHAT'S COOKING
(Andrew) OH, HO HO!
AND LATER, I HELP PULL SOME OTHER WICKED-COOL CREATURES
FROM THE LAGOON.
(Andrew) LOOK AT HIM TURN COLOR. LOOK AT THAT.
LOOK AT THAT.
♪♪
IN VENICE, THE ICONIC SOUVENIR
IS A WORK OF ART-HOUSE GLASS--
MURANO GLASS, OF COURSE.
IT COMES FROM THE GLASSBLOWING FACTORIES
ON AN ISLAND JUST A FEW SQUARE MILES WIDE
NORTH OF VENICE.
IT'S THE CENTER OF THE WORLD WHEN IT COMES TO THE ART
OF GLASSBLOWING.
MURANO GLASSWORKS ARE MORE THAN EIGHT CENTURIES OLD.
THE ORIGINAL ARTISANS CLOSELY GUARDED THEIR SECRETS,
CREATING A VENETIAN MONOPOLY FOR GENERATIONS.
THIS IS, UH, THE FACTORY
THAT MY GRANDFATHER BUILT.
ARCHIMEDE WAS A MEMBER
OF A VERY FAMOUS FAMILY OF GLASSBLOWERS...
SINCE THE 1300s.
ANTONIO SEGUSO IS THE YOUNGEST GRANDSON
OF ARCHIMEDE SEGUSO,
WHO WAS ONE OF THE MOST FAMOUS GLASS ARTISTS IN HISTORY.
SEGUSO'S CREATIONS CAPTURED THE IMAGINATION OF THE RICH
AND RETAILERS AROUND THE WORLD.
TIFFANY & COMPANY, CARTIER,
VERSACE.
WE SUPPLIED THE KING OF SPAIN,
THE QUEEN OF THAILAND,
THE--THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND.
ANTONIO AND HIS FATHER GINO SEGUSO
BOTH RUN THE BUSINESS.
AND THEY GRACIOUSLY INVITED ME INTO THEIR WORLD FOR THE DAY.
UNTIL I WALKED IN HERE, I REALLY DIDN'T KNOW
WHAT WAS POSSIBLE WITH GLASS.
I MEAN, I'VE SEEN SOME THINGS HERE
THAT ARE JUST EYE-OPENING.
YES?
YES, IT'S A KIND OF TRADEMARK FOR US.
OTHER PIECES WERE INSPIRED BY THEIR BACKYARD--
THE LAGOON.
(Andrew) AND HERE YOU SEE-- THIS IS THE COLOR OF THE WATER.
THIS IS THE-- THE LOOK OF THE GRASS.
I MEAN, YOU HAVE THE SHAPE OF A SHELL.
EACH PIECE IS STILL MADE BY HAND
IN THE SEGUSO FACTORY HERE ON MURANO.
BUT WHAT THEY DO WITH FOOD IN THE GLASSBLOWER'S OVEN
IS RIDICULOUSLY COOL.
IT TURNS OUT THAT ONCE A YEAR AT CHRISTMAS,
THEY ACTUALLY COOK HERE. THEY ROAST EEL.
OKAY, FRIEND OF MINE...
THAT'S-- THAT'S THE EEL.
CHEF GABRIELE MASIOL IS THE COLORFUL CHEF AND OWNER
OF BUSA ALLA TORRE,
THE MOST CELEBRATED RESTAURANT ON MURANO.
HE DEMONSTRATES HOW THE EEL IS PREPPED FOR THE FURNACE.
SEE, THIS IS GREAT,
BECAUSE NOT ONLY DOES IT WIND UP,
YEAH. YES.
THANK YOU. CIAO, ANDREW.
IT'S JUST EEL, BAY LEAF, AND SALT.
THE GLASSBLOWER'S OVEN WILL DO THE REST.
TRADITIONALLY, WE DO A BIG TABLE IN HERE,
AND BEFORE CHRISTMAS, I WILL DO A DINNER
OR MAYBE LUNCH.
AND EVERYONE IN THE FACTORY IS INVITED.
AND COOKING-- YEAH, IT'S--
YEAH.
I SAY THAT I SPEND MORE TIME WITH THEM
INSTEAD OF WITH MY REAL FAMILY.
WATCHING THESE GUYS
CREATE THE PIECES IS MIND-BENDING.
IT STARTS WITH A CHUNK OF MOLTEN GLASS
ON A LONG, HOLLOW ROD.
IT TAKES JUST A FEW SMALL BREATHS
TO CREATE AN AIR POCKET INSIDE THE GLASS.
SOME PIECES, LIKE GOBLETS AND VASES,
ARE SHAPED IN A MOLD SO THEY'RE MORE UNIFORM.
BUT REALLY, NO TWO PIECES ARE EXACTLY THE SAME.
THE GLASS COOLS DOWN QUICKLY,
SO IT HAS TO BE REHEATED EVERY FEW MINUTES
TO STAY PLIABLE.
IT SOMETIMES TAKES SEVERAL ARTISANS
TO BRING THE SHAPES TO LIFE.
THIS IS THE VERY BEST WAY
RIGHT.
OH, MY GOD.
I MEAN, TWO MINUTES AGO ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE ROOM
THAT WAS A LITTLE BALL OF RED GLASS.
A PADDLE TO FORM THE BOTTOM...
AND YOU CAN ACTUALLY CUT GLASS
WHEN IT'S THE RIGHT TEMPERATURE. WHO KNEW?
YEAH.
VERY--VERY TRADITIONAL,
VERY MURANO.
THIS IS THE KIND OF... (speaking indistinctly)
GLASS THAT WE DO FOR TIFFANY & COMPANY.
NOW WATCH THIS.
YOU SEE? IT'S SUPER HOT.
YOU SEE? NOW--WHOA.
THAT'S TO ELONGATE THE VASE
JUST BEFORE THE FINISHING TOUCHES.
SO THERE ARE NO IMPERFECTIONS,
THE VASE HAS TO CURE FOR 52 HOURS.
THESE GUYS MAKE THE WHOLE GLASSBLOWING THING LOOK EASY,
UNTIL THEY GIVE ME A TURN.
PLEASE BLOW AS STRONG AS YOU CAN.
KEEP GOING. KEEP GOING.
THAT'S KIND OF A NICE-- I KIND OF LIKE THAT.
I CALL THAT A BLUE WHALE. IT'S ONE OF MY SPECIALTY PIECES.
I COME HERE ONCE A YEAR AND DO SOMETHING FOR EUROPEAN ROYALTY.
HE GIVES ME ANOTHER SHOT.
OKAY, GO, GO, GO, GO, GO, GO, GO, GO, GO, GO, GO.
COME ON. COME ON.
OH.
(laughing)
YEAH.
YES.
I MEAN, GLASSBLOWING HAS BEEN AROUND A LONG TIME.
JUST THINK WHAT IT MUST HAVE BEEN LIKE BACK THEN
WHEN THEY DIDN'T HAVE ALL THESE MODERN SPECTACLES,
YEAH.
NO WONDER IT CAPTIVATED THE WORLD--
SO MUCH FUN.
THE CURING OVENS ARE SET AT 500 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT.
SO BY NOW THE EEL IS ROASTED AND CRISPY.
TO THE EEL...
WHO GAVE HIS LIFE.
THAT'S PRETTY GOOD.
HERE'S THE THING--
YES.
THAT THE--IT-- IT'S PERFECTLY SUITED
YES.
SALT, BAY LEAVES,
AND ALL OF THOSE MUDDY, BRINY FLAVORS OF THE LAGOON--
IT'S JUST INCREDIBLE.
THIS IS--THIS IS THE BEST EEL I'VE EVER EATEN IN MY LIFE.
YEAH.
EVERY ONCE IN A WHILE...
YOU GET A CHANCE TO EAT
A-A TANGIBLE PIECE OF CULINARY HISTORY.
AND YOU KNOW, CHRISTMAS EVE
AT THE GLASSBLOWING SHOP IN MURANO--
IF YOU KINDA SQUINTED, IT COULD BE THE 14th CENTURY.
REALLY.
IT CAN ALSO TAKE YOU BACK A COUPLE OF CENTURIES
WATCHING THE FISHERMEN IN THE LAGOON.
BUT WATCH OUT FOR THEIR MOST DANGEROUS CATCH.
OW! AAH! OH.
♪♪
THROUGHOUT HISTORY, VENETIANS HAVE RELIED ON THE LAGOON
FOR TRAVEL, FOR FOOD, AND MORE,
RELIANCE WHICH NOW THREATENS ITS FUTURE.
FOR CENTURIES,
SEWAGE FROM VENICE FLOAT INTO THE CANALS AND LAGOON.
THEN CAME INDUSTRIAL CHEMICALS AND MATERIALS
WASHED OFF OF BUILDINGS BY PERSISTENT FLOODING.
BUT RECENT LAWS AND TREATMENT SYSTEMS
ARE WORKING TO BRING BACK THE DELICATE BALANCE
SO THAT GUYS LIKE THESE
CAN KEEP LOCAL FISHING FLEETS VIABLE.
THIS IS IVAN AND THOMAS BAGNOLO,
FATHER AND SON, WHOSE FAMILY HAS BEEN FISHING THESE WATERS
FOR OVER 100 YEARS.
THEY LIVE ON GIUDECCA, A LONG, NARROW ISLAND
JUST SOUTH OF VENICE.
AND THEY'RE A VANISHING BREED.
THIS IS THE SIDE OF VENICE THAT YOU NEVER GET TO SEE--
TWO GENERATIONS OF A WORKING FAMILY
OUT HERE ON THE BACK SIDE OF THE LAGOON
WHERE ALL THE SEAFOOD THAT FEEDS THAT CITY COMES FROM.
THERE USED TO BE LOTS OF FISHING FAMILIES ON GIUDECCA.
NOW THERE'S JUST ONE.
THIS FAMILY IS THE-- THE LAST FAMILY
TO FISH THE LAGOON HERE.
IN A WORLD DOMINATED BY IMPORTED SEAFOOD
AND MULTINATIONAL FISHING CORPORATIONS,
SMALLER OPERATIONS HAVE BEEN EXTERMINATED.
SO THE BAD NEWS IS--
IS THAT YOU'VE GOT CHEMICAL FACTORIES LIKE THAT ONE
THAT ARE KILLING THE SEA GRASS AND THE SEA LIFE
AND PUTTING FAMILIES LIKE THIS ONE OUT OF BUSINESS.
BUT THE GOOD NEWS IS THAT ABOUT 200 YARDS AWAY
YOU CAN SEE ONE OF THE LATEST
LAND RECLAMATION PROJECTS UNDER WAY.
THEY'RE ESSENTIALLY BUILDING SANDY SHOALS
IN AND AROUND THE LAGOON TO REGENERATE THE SEA GRASS
AND BRING CUTTLEFISH AND LITTLE FISH
BACK INTO THE LAGOON. SO THAT'S A GOOD STORY.
IT'S A RACE AGAINST TIME FOR THESE GUYS.
EVERY DAY THEY HAUL AND CHECK
(Andrew) OH, HO HO!
YES.
WHAT ABOUT THESE?
BAD.
WE'RE ALSO ON THE HUNT FOR MOECA.
THEY'RE A SPECIES OF CRAB NATIVE TO THE VENETIAN LAGOON.
BUT THEY'RE ONLY GOOD WHEN THEY'VE SHED THEIR SHELL.
SO YOU GOTTA CATCH THEM AT EXACTLY THE RIGHT TIME,
WHEN THEY'VE JUST LEFT THEIR HARD SHELL BEHIND.
(Andrew) I MEAN, HE'S ALMOST COMPLETELY OUT.
LOOK AT THAT. (laughing)
(Thomas speaking Italian)
IS NOW TWO.
IT FEELS LIKE YOU'RE STROKING THE VELVET
MARKETS AND RESTAURANTS
PAY A PREMIUM FOR THIS SOFT-SHELL VARIETY,
CAUGHT AT THIS EXACT POINT, SO THE WHOLE CRAB CAN BE EATEN.
BUT CATCH THEM JUST ONE HOUR LATE,
AND THE SHELLS WILL REHARDEN IN THE COLD WATER.
THE SOFT SEASON HERE
IS VERY, VERY, VERY, VERY SHORT,
BECAUSE THEY CAN'T ARTIFICIALLY KEEP THE WATER WARM ENOUGH
TO KEEP THE SHELL FROM HARDENING UP.
THE OTHER PRIZE CATCH-- CUTTLEFISH,
LARGER THAN THE ONES WE SAW IN THE MARKET,
BUT THEY ALL HAVE A VERY COOL CAMOUFLAGE TECHNIQUE.
THESE ARE ABLE TO TURN BLACK THEN WHITE
AND ALL SHADES IN BETWEEN.
IT'S A BEAUTIFUL ANIMAL. LOOK AT HIM TURN COLOR.
LOOK AT THAT. LOOK AT THAT.
LOOK AT HOW DARK THIS ONE IS TURNING. IT'S AMAZING.
OH, AND BY THE WAY, THEY BITE.
LOOK AT THAT BIG NASTY BEAK IN THERE.
(Thomas speaking indistinctly)
SON OF A ***!
WHAT THE HELL IS WRONG WITH YOU?
I WAS GONNA LET THIS ONE GO,
BUT NOT ANYMORE.
SO IT'S BACK TO THE BAGNOLO'S COMPOUND ON GIUDECCA.
♪♪
EVERYONE IN THE FAMILY PITCHES IN,
ONE GRANDFATHER MENDING NETS, ANOTHER CLEANING SHRIMP.
EVEN IVAN'S DAUGHTER MORENA CAPTAINS THE KITCHEN.
WHEN YOU'RE IN A FISHERMAN'S HOUSE IN GIUDECCA,
THE HOME COOKING IS FANTASTIC.
MMM. WOW.
AND YOU SAW SOME OF THOSE CRABS IN THERE, ALIVE IN THE MILK.
THEY'RE JUST LOADED
WITH THAT WONDERFUL SALTWATER FROM THE ADRIATIC.
IT'S FANTASTIC.
THREE GENERATIONS OF THE BAGNOLO FAMILY
LIVE, WORK, AND EAT TOGETHER--
HOME-COOKED FOOD THAT OUTPERFORMS ANY RESTAURANT.
BEING IN THE HOUSE WITH THE GUYS
THAT ACTUALLY PULLED THE STUFF OUT OF THE WATER,
THE SHRIMP WERE ALIVE FIVE MINUTES AGO ON THE BACK PORCH.
THE CRABS WERE ALIVE 90 SECONDS AGO
OVER ON THE KITCHEN COUNTER.
NOTHING BETTER, NOTHING FRESHER,
AND QUITE FRANKLY, IT'S COOKED WITH AN EXPERTISE
THAT COMES FROM THE HEART AND NOT THE HEAD.
INCREDIBLE FOOD.
QUITE AN HONOR--
LUNCH WITH THE LAST FISHERMEN OF GIUDECCA,
TOILING ON THE LAGOON EVERY DAY
TO CARRY ON THIS CENTURIES-OLD WAY OF LIFE.
THANK YOU FOR HAVING ME IN YOUR HOME.
VENETIAN FOOD ISN'T JUST ABOUT SEAFOOD,
BUT THE MEAT THAT I LOVE TO EAT WHEN I AM HERE
PROBABLY ISN'T ON YOUR TOP FIVE LIST.
(Andrew) FANTASTIC.
LOOKING FOR A SNACK? FIND OUT WHERE THE GONDOLIERS
HANG THEIR HATS WHEN THEY'RE HUNGRY.
♪♪
VENICE ESSENTIALLY HAS REVOLVED FOR CENTURIES
AROUND THE RIALTO BRIDGE,
BUILT IN THE LATE 1580s.
AND RIGHT BELOW IT
IS THE GRACEFUL AND HISTORIC RIALTO MARKET.
MARCO POLO IS SAID TO HAVE FIRST BROUGHT SPICES
FROM ASIA TO ITALY HERE AT THIS MARKET.
ONE STROLL SHOWS HOW FOOD IN VENICE
HAS BEEN ELEVATED TO AN ART FORM.
AND IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT TO BUY,
FOLLOW A GRANDMOTHER.
TUTTO BUONO.
TUTTO BUONO.
SHE ASSURES ME THIS IS THE BEST SHRIMP VENDOR...
AND THEN GUSHES THAT IT'S BEEN A LONG TIME
SINCE A STRANGER KISSED HER OUT OF THE BLUE.
MUCH OF THIS SEAFOOD IS JUST OFF THE BOATS.
UH, SCAMPI.
I'VE BEEN IN THIS TOWN A WEEK.
IT'S THE BEST PIECE OF SEAFOOD THAT I'VE EATEN.
AND JUST 40 FEET FROM THESE VENDORS
ARE SMALL BARS SERVING FISH
BOUGHT JUST MINUTES AFTER THEY LAND IN THE MARKET.
THIS IS THE SEASON NOW TO BE EATING ALL OF THESE LITTLE FISH.
THE LITTLE ANCHOVY, THE LITTLE SARDINES
WILL ABSOLUTELY KNOCK YOUR SOCKS OFF.
BUT VENICE IS NOT JUST ABOUT SEAFOOD.
ONE OF THE WORLD'S MOST FAMOUS BEEF DISHES, CARPACCIO,
WAS INVENTED HERE 60 YEARS AGO AT HARRY'S BAR,
TUCKED BETWEEN THE PALACES
AT THE MOUTH OF THE GRAND CANAL.
ARRIGO CIPRIANI RUNS THE PLACE THAT WAS BUILT BY HIS DAD
AND MADE FAMOUS BY HEMINGWAY
AND HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS OF BELLINI-FUELED JET-SETTERS.
MR. CIPRIANI IS OFTEN ASKED
THE ORIGIN OF THE FAMOUS RAW BEEF DISH.
THERE WAS AN ITALIAN COUNTESS, WHO FOR--
FOR SOME REASON, UH, SHE COULD ONLY EAT RAW MEAT.
AND, UM--AND OF COURSE, SHE WAS TIRED OF TARTARE.
SO ONE DAY MY FATHER SLICED A FILLET VERY, VERY THIN.
HE PUT ON TOP OF IT A SAUCE. AND THAT'S IT.
IT WAS CALLED CARPACCIO AFTER THE ITALIAN ARTIST
WITH AN EXHIBIT IN TOWN AT THE TIME.
TODAY, CARPACCIO IS COPIED ALL OVER THE WORLD--
PAPER-THIN AGED BEEF
ACCENTED WITH HOMEMADE MAYONNAISE.
YOU TASTE THE EGG YOLK.
YOU GET THE CRUNCH OF THE SEA SALT
AND THAT DEEP...
MINERAL-Y BEEF.
IT TASTES LIKE RIVER STONES.
THIS IS THE BEST.
ANOTHER FAVORITE OF MINE IS A CARNIVORE'S DILEMMA,
TREASURED BY VENETIANS, ESCHEWED BY TOURISTS--
HORSE MEAT.
THERE'S ONLY ONE BUTCHER SHOP LEFT IN TOWN THAT SELLS IT.
AND THAT'S WHERE I MEET UP WITH ENRICA ROCCA.
SHE'S RENOWNED AROUND THE WORLD
AS AN AUTHORITY ON THE SUBJECT OF AUTHENTIC VENETIAN COOKING.
AND SHE KNOWS PRETTY MUCH EVERYTHING
ABOUT VENICE'S FOOD HISTORY.
WHEN DID HORSE BECOME POPULAR,
WAS WHEN THE HORSES, YOU KNOW, WERE GOING TO WAR,
MM-HMM.
AND THEY HAD TO EAT THEM. SO UP--THEY PICKED THEM UP
YEAH.
FOOD OF NECESSITY IS WHAT DROVE OUR--
EXACTLY.
ITALY IS THE LARGEST CONSUMER OF HORSE MEAT IN EUROPE,
WITH MOST OF THE HORSES IMPORTED FROM EASTERN EUROPE.
IN THE OLD TIMES, PEOPLE WERE JUST PLAIN HUNGRY
THE RECIPE ENRICA IS COOKING TODAY
IS ONE BORN OF NECESSITY.
SO WE'RE GONNA COOK IT FOR TWO OR THREE HOURS IN RED WINE.
THEY HAD NO REFRIGERATORS AT THE TIME,
RIGHT.
WHERE THEY COULD KEEP IT FOR A WEEK.
ABSOLUTELY.
OF COURSE.
THE OTHER SPECIALTY OF THE HOUSE
IS DONKEY SALAMI.
YES.
FOR--FOR A LOT OF PEOPLE,
HORSE AND DONKEY IS, UH, A BIG DEPARTURE.
IT'S THE DEEP END OF THE POOL.
BUT IT'S NOT. IT'S FAIRLY SHALLOW.
I MEAN, IT'S--THIS IS-- THIS IS GREAT, GREAT RED MEAT,
VERY LEAN, VERY GOOD FOR YOU.
BOTH HORSE AND DONKEY MEAT ARE RICH IN IRON
AND ACTUALLY BECAME MORE POPULAR RECENTLY,
BECAUSE MAD COW DISEASE SCARED SOME FOLKS AWAY FROM BEEF.
BUT ENRICA HAS BEEN COOKING THEM FOR YEARS IN HER CLASSES
AND AT HOME IN HER FAMILY'S 250-YEAR-OLD VILLA,
NOW DIVIDED INTO 17 APARTMENTS.
FIRST, I THINK YOU'RE GONNA DO THE REST.
I'LL DIRECT YOU.
ENRICA DIRECTS, AND I HANDLE THE VEGETABLES AND SEASONINGS.
IF THE HORSE HAD BEEN THERE,
UN-GUTTED FOR A COUPLE OF DAYS,
IT MIGHT NEED A LITTLE BIT MORE CLOVES AND BAY LEAVES
(laughing)
IT'S TRUE.
THERE'S CHEESE AND DONKEY SALAMI BEFORE DINNER.
THE HOTTEST INGREDIENT THERE IS IS SALAMI.
EVERYONE'S DOING THEIR OWN SALAMI.
IT'S BEAUTIFULLY CURED.
THE CURE FLAVOR IS NOT OVERWHELMING.
THE FAT, EVEN THOUGH IT'S PREVALENT,
EATS REALLY WELL.
OUR MAIN DISH IS SERVED IN THE GARDEN.
THIS IS LEAN AND JUST FAINTLY, FAINTLY GAMEY.
EXCEPT FOR THE FACT THAT IT'S SO LEAN,
ABSOLUTELY.
AND I LOVE THE CONSISTENCY. I LOVE THE--
I LOVE THE MOUTHFEEL OF THE HORSE,
BECAUSE IT'S NOT TOO RICH.
THE IDYLLIC SETTING AND 500-YEAR-OLD RECIPE
TRANSPORT YOU BACK IN TIME,
WHEN A BOAT OF THAT SIZE GOES BY,
IT KIND OF BLOWS THE COVER.
YEAH.
YEAH. YEAH.
BUT VENETIANS LIKE ENRICA ARE BOUND AND DETERMINED
TO KEEP THE FLAME OF THEIR HISTORY,
FOOD TRADITIONS, AND CITY ALIVE.
AND KNOWING HER SPIRIT, IT'S IN GOOD HANDS.
YOU ARE A DOLL.
IN NEED OF SOME RESTAURANT ADVICE?
WELL, THE GONDOLIERS KNOW THE BEST HIDDEN WINE BARS
WITH SOME INSANELY COOL FOOD.
LOOK AT THAT QUIVERING LITTLE FORKFUL OF COW TENDONS.
IT'S LIKE EATING A TUB OF LIP GLOSS,
AND THAT'S JUST THE FIRST STOP.
TAKE A VISUAL JOURNEY AROUND THE WORLD.
CHECK OUT MY "BIZARRE FOODS" SLIDESHOWS
ONLY AT travelchannel.com.
♪♪
MILLIONS OF VISITORS POUR INTO VENICE EACH YEAR.
AND OF COURSE, MANY RESTAURANTS CATER TO THEIR TASTES
AND PREFERENCES.
BUT IF YOU WANT TO EAT LIKE VENETIANS,
STOP BY A BàCARI,
LITTLE WINE BARS SITTING ALONG THE CANALS,
AND GRAB SOME SMALL SNACKS,
AFFECTIONATELY NICKNAMED CICHETI.
EACH BàCARI IS FAMOUS FOR ITS OWN SIGNATURE CICHETI,
LIKE THESE AT THE RUGA RIALTO BàCARI--
FRESH SARDINES AND...
SCOOP UP A LITTLE BIT OF THE ONION, THE PINE NUT,
PERCH A RAISIN ON TOP,
AND YOU HAVE ONE INCOMPARABLE LITTLE BITE OF FOOD.
MMM.
(people speaking Italian)
A NICE CONTRAST WITH ENSALATA DI NERVETTI--
AN OLD ITALIAN DISH MADE FROM CALVES' FEET TENDONS.
LOOK AT THAT QUIVERING LITTLE FORKFUL
OF COW TENDONS
AND GENTLY PICKLED ONIONS.
THIS IS A DISH THAT USED TO BE SERVED ALL OVER THIS TOWN.
NOW YOU ONLY FIND IT IN A HANDFUL OF TINY, LITTLE BARS,
LIKE THIS ONE THAT WILL SERVE IT.
IT'S LIKE EATING A TUB OF LIP GLOSS,
MAYBE WITH A LITTLE MORE BODY TO IT.
THERE ARE HUNDREDS OF BàCARIS HERE.
SO THE BEST WAY TO FIND THE HIDDEN GEMS
IS TO ASK THE GUYS WORKING ON THE CANALS ALL DAY--
THE GONDOLIERS.
THESE GUYS ARE THE ROCK STARS OF VENICE.
THEY GO THROUGH YEARS OF TRAINING AND APPRENTICESHIP
AND RIGOROUS EXAMS ON NAVIGATION,
WATER SAFETY, AND VENETIAN HISTORY.
MASSIMO LETTO HAS BEEN A GONDOLIER FOR 20 YEARS.
AND OF COURSE, HE HAS HIS FAVORITE BàCARI TO SHOW ME.
MASSIMO, YOU HUNGRY? A LITTLE MANGIARE?
DOVE LA CICHETI?
AH, MOLTO BENE. GRAZIE, MASSIMO.
YES.
FANTASTIC.
CANTINA DI SCHIAVI IS ON A SMALL CANAL
NEAR A FEW MUSEUMS AND JUST ACROSS THE WAY
FROM THE ONLY GONDOLA FACTORY LEFT IN THE CITY.
IT'S THE ITALIAN VERSION OF TAPAS.
(speaking Italian)
IT'S RUN BY ALESSANDRA GASTALDI AND HER FAMILY.
YEAH, GO NUTS.
THIS ONE IS BACCALà MONTECATO--
MELTINGLY TEXTURED AND WITH THE INTENSE, SUN-KISSED FLAVOR
OF DRIED COD.
SALT COD REHYDRATED,
SOMETIMES POACHED, SHREDDED,
AND THEN MASHED BY HAND WITH OLIVE OIL--
OH, MY GOD.
THIS IS SALTY FISH BUTTER. IT'S INCREDIBLE.
THEN RAW TUNA
COVERED WITH FRESHLY GRATED BITTER CACAO.
TUNA CACAO? YOU LIKE IT?
OH. OH.
(speaking indistinctly)
EVERYTHING I'VE HAD HAS GOT BITTER,
SALTY, SWEET.
TEXTURE IS GORGEOUS--
CRISPY CROSTINI WITH THE SOFT SALADS,
JUST DELIGHTFUL.
YOU'RE A VERY TALENTED LADY,
VERY, VERY TALENTED LADY.
GRAZIE.
MASSIMO NEEDS TO GET BACK TO HIS GONDOLA.
AT $100 FOR A 30-MINUTE GONDOLA RIDE,
HE NEEDS TO START THE METER RUNNING.
VENICE ITSELF IS A SMALL CITY,
BUT IT'S DIVIDED UP INTO MANY TEENY, LITTLE NEIGHBORHOODS,
EACH WITH THEIR OWN DISTINCT PERSONALITY.
LAST STOP IS OSTERIA LA CANTINA.
THE CHEF HERE IS MOST FAMOUS
FOR PUTTING TOGETHER HIS INSPIRATIONAL LITTLE PLATES
OF SALUME AND PESCE CRUDO
AND THE SHELLFISH.
WHATEVER'S BEST IN THE MARKET THAT DAY WINDS UP HERE.
FOR CHEF AND CO-OWNER FRANCESCO ZORZETTO,
IT'S ALL ABOUT FRESHNESS OF THE INGREDIENTS
AND THE PRECISION IN THE KITCHEN.
HAND-CUTTING PAPER-THIN SLICES OF RAW FISH,
SALMON TARTARE IN THE MIDDLE,
A TINY, LITTLE, COLD-POACHED QUAIL EGG.
THIS IS THE WAY THE LOCALS EAT,
TO SAVOR THE VIEW AS MUCH AS THE WINE AND FOOD.
LET'S GO CRAYFISH FIRST.
MMM. WOW.
THAT'S HARDCORE.
THE HEAD FAT AND EVERYTHING THAT'S INSIDE THERE
JUST HAS THAT TEENSY, TEENSY LITTLE OFF FLAVOR
FROM ALL THE SORT OF BRAINS AND GUTS THAT ARE IN THERE.
(slurping) NOTHING BAD FOR YOU,
JUST BRINY AND INTENSE--
AND YOU CAN REALLY TASTE THE LAGOON IN HERE.
IT'S JUST TOO GOOD NOT TO SHARE.
YOU'VE BEEN EATING TOO MUCH MEAT AND CHEESE OVER THERE.
THE BEST ADVICE I CAN GIVE ANYBODY--
WANDER THROUGH THE BACK STREETS, GET LOST,
AND SHOW YOUR APPRECIATION FOR THE CHEFS,
WHO ARE KEEPING
HONEST AND AUTHENTIC VENETIAN FOOD TRADITIONS ALIVE.
(laughter and cheering)
GRAZIE.
OH, MY GOD.
I LOVE THIS TOWN.
AND I LOVE THAT THERE ARE PEOPLE HERE
WILLING TO SWIM AGAINST THE TIDE
TO PRESERVE THIS WAY OF LIFE,
THE LAGOON, AND ITS BOUNTY.
AS ARRIGO CIPRIANI TOLD ME OVER LUNCH,
VENICE HAS BEEN GLOBALLY RENOWNED FOR OVER 1,500 YEARS,
AND LIKE THE PYRAMIDS OF EGYPT,
THIS CITY, ITS STORIED HISTORY,
AND ITS VIBRANT LAGOON WILL SURVIVE
FOR A VERY, VERY LONG TIME TO COME.
SO WHENEVER YOU GET HERE, JUST REMEMBER...
IF IT LOOKS GOOD, EAT IT.
Closed Captions provided by Scripps Networks, LLC.
Captioned by Closed Captioning Services, Inc.