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Please find this product at http://absupply.net/ This video is to bring you a closer look at
the Pemko 4131CRL Clear Anodized Aluminum Automatic Door Bottom with an EPDM insert.
This is a surface floor semi mortised model and it is an automatic door bottom. So lets
start at the beginning with this. Automatic door bottoms in general the way to sum them
up is that when the door is closed the last few degrees of the closing cycle the bottom
drops automatically. So when the door is closed, the bottom drops automatically sealing the
bottom of the door. When you open the door it snaps back up into its housing, it is really
that simple. So lets begin by describing this specific model by Pemko, the 4131CRL. So what
we have here is an automatic door bottom by Pemko, you have an end that has a bolt sticking
out of it, we are going to call it the hinged side and we are going to call this the plunger.
And then we have the other end that doesn't have that and we are going to call that the
lock side. Now, these are generally surface mounted where you apply them right to the
face of the door. You can also take the bottom of the door and route the entire bottom of
the door and then install all of this such that it is flush with the face, you can do
that as well. I see that often in hotels, is where I see that, a semi mortised version
of this. Pemko wants to know the hand when they manufacture this unit. They want to know
the hand of the door. I have to admit, I'm not sure what specifically hands this unit
at the factory. Their documentation has even been observed to read non-handed, but they
want to know the hand of the unit. So when you order the unit, be prepared to tell us
the hand of the unit. The factory will just inevitably ask. This door bottom is available
in clear aluminum as you see here, a dark bronze; you can get it in satin nickel, other
colors. So now, automatic door bottoms, we talked earlier about how this is the hinged
side. Now imagine when this is attached to the face of the door and this plunger is depressed
which is the action of the door closing because this is on the hinged side and by the way
only on the push side you can't install it anywhere else, you have to install it on the
push side so that when the door closes this will come in contact with the frame. As you
continue to push the door closed, this has nowhere to go but in. The plunger can be turned
counter clockwise so that it has more projection from the edge of the housing. It can be turned
clockwise to turn it in. The amount that this projects is directly related to how much distance
you are asking it to drop. When you are going about your installation, you are going to
want to stand on the push side of the door with your tape measure. If you are installing
it in a surface mount fashion you are going to measure the distance between the stops,
and deduct about an 1/8". That is the dimension that you will want to cut this to. Now speaking
of cutting it, only allow yourself about two inch of trim for this or a better idea is
that when you order it, indicate in the comment field the net length you want us to supply
it to you. The factory has already cutting all of the components to length, you might
as well just cut it to the exact length you need, eliminating the need for cutting by
you when you get it on the site. So the push side of the door between the stops, deduct
an 1/8" that is your net size if you are surface mounting it. You can envision if you are going
to semi mortise it you need to go the width of the door and pretty much that would be
your size. Keep in mind your door might be beveled or square edge and you might want
to compensate for that a little bit but that would be a different dimension. When you order
it, you will get it to length or if you are going to cut it, you'll get it attached to
the bottom of the door. You are going to want to leave yourself 3/8" gap underneath the
door from where you physically locate this on the bottom of the door. And then you are
going to want to take this plunger and get it turned in almost all the way, you don't
want it sticking out to far at all. Obviously, you will use a screw driver for doing that.
Now, you've got your length, you've got your height off the bottom of the door, you attach
it to the bottom of the door, and then with this brought all of the way in you can then
begin to close the door. You will notice that the plunger will be pushed in. That's happening
because, well when you push the plunger in, you can see over here, pardon me, over here
that it begins to drop. The amount of that plunger sticking out is directly related to
how much drop you are going to be dealing with. About up to 3/4" is what this is designed
to handle. You will want to start with the plunger mostly turned into the housing because
you don't want to damage it immediately. So I've got this turned out several revolutions.
Now as I push this, you can see that it drops down a lot further. Now you would never cut
the plunger side, you would only cut the lock side. How that happens is the plunger is connected
to a flat spring. That flat spring, there is evidence of a mechanical attachment here,
which this little rolled pin here holding it in. You can really not get anywhere close
to that rolled pin; you are going to want to stay over here in terms of your trim length.
But that is how it works. Plunger goes in, forces the flat spring to belly. That bellying
action pushes the entire mechanism down. So the action of the automatic door bottom is
best described this way. When the plunger goes in, you see how it drops down uneven,
well an actual representation of field conditions would be my thumb is going to act as the sill.
So as soon as the bottom drops and comes in contact with the sill, it then will even out
the rest of it. So I'm limiting the drop with my thumb over here, and then you can see that
it will come down. So the action is that it drops down and then comes like this, giving
you the ability to seal against a seal that may not be level. Not wavy, but maybe not
level. That's in my opinion a paramount reason why automatic door bottoms are a very elegant
solution and should be considered all of the time. Another reason that they are an elegant
solution is because you can envision through this process that when all you are doing is
just dropping your seal there is nothing dragging. All you are doing is dropping your seal, nothing
dragging to wear out or wear out your finish on your floor. And therefore allow an extreme
long life expectancy from the unit. EPDM is a synthetic rubberized type material, it is
quite soft and pliable, it has a rigid backer that the foam portion is attached to. It is
a fire rated compliant product, this is in a 32" length, and you can order any length
that you want. Just indicate in the comment field what length you want us to cut the material
back to and we would be happy to do that. I'm a big fan of doing it. You might not be
able to do it because the job site might be an hour each way and you will just cut it
when you get there. You know they are 3' doors and that's not going to be a problem for you
at all. There is an image below this video showing everything important dimensionally
about his item, let's go over that now. You can see that it is 19/32" thick, the extrusions,
that is basically 5/8". A little bit shy on 5/8". 1-27/32", an 1-7/8" maybe about an 1-7/8".
It is going to come with screws to hold it on and I will show you the entire fastener
package now. So you will get a couple, in addition to the screws, so just like a truss
head style screw that will go right through your installation to hold it onto the door.
No problem you will get plenty of screws for the length. You are also going to get as you
can think once you think of it, a couple of thin end plates, finished end plates. One's
got the hold in the shape of a plunger and the other does not. So obviously those are
going to attach over here, give it a finished look. Two little holes that you see, you are
going to get screws to hold those on, there are plenty, there are four in this package
to get it all attached. After that, the other thing you are going to get is a flat head
screw. That is for attaching to the jamb if you have a wood frame. You are going to want
to attach it on the wood frame, drill and counter sink to attach the screw such that
every time the plunger makes contact with the wood frame you don't have metal hitting
wood. Over time you would have a problem with it, so you attach that screw to the wood frame
and then it will give it a hard surface so that you are not creating a divot in your
wood frame. The only complaint that I've ever heard about these is that, this is one out
of 10,000 or maybe 1 out of 25,000, is that the unit is a bit loud. Meaning that when
the door is closed you have your seal and when you go to open the door you hear that
clanking sound. Pemko has models that have a rubberized; you can see where the sound
is coming from. They have models that have a rubberized position in there that does two
things. It helps the overall job of the door bottom doing its job to prevent air from coming
through the extrusion, from the extrusion here, but it also deadens the sound. It is
not an issue, it is not something that I think should really influence your decision overall
but standard duty items like this from Pemko are going to not feature any provision for
deadening sound. Review maybe their entire line in order to have a better idea of what
you are dealing with. In terms of an overall product offering, they make standard heavy
duty items for lead lined doors, acoustical doors, mortised style, they have a full comprehensive
offering. There is also a link below this video to what is called the instructions.
It is everything that we just went over. These are really easy to put on and install. Everything
is listed there. There is nothing that I believe I have left out. If you have any questions
on anything Pemko related in terms of automatic door bottoms please feel free to reach out
to us. Thank you very much.