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Our journey begins in the East German province of Saxony-Anhalt.
We follow the River Elbe through Wittenberg, the birth place of the Protestant Reformation.
From an Enlightenment-era pleasure garden in Worlitz, we discover castles dotted across
the countryside, from Saaleck to Freyburg.
Then it's away from the Elbe and into the state of Thuringia.
The famed cultural history of Weimar and the dark past of Buchenwald concentration camp
are on our path down the old East/West Germany divide.
We cross the border briefly to discover a 200 metre man-made heap of waste salt in the
state of Hesse.
Then move back to the former East Germany and through the Thuringian Forest, Germany's
'Green Heart', before ending our journey at the romantic Reinhardsbrunn Castle.
The Elbe River has featured prominently in the history of Germany.
It's been central to trade and fishing as well as serving as a natural frontier.
The River forever frustrated The Romans: their massive, organized armies always driven back
to the Rhine by Germanic tribes.
And during the Allied occupation of Germany the Elbe served as a natural border between
the East and West.
And situated on the Eastern side of the river, in the province of Saxony-Anhalt, is the city
of Wittenberg.
It was established as a trading centre in the late 12th century, but over the years
became renowned as a hub of education and culture.
It was here that 16th century monk, Martin Luther, wrote his 95 theses - the single act
that sparked the Protestant Reformation.
And looming over the market square are the twin towers of Stadtkirche a 12th century
church that found itself at the heart of a great religious controversy.
Because it was on this site that Martin Luther, back from exile, preached from the new testament
in German instead of Latin.
And this is the Schlosskirche, or Castle Church. It was onto the door of this Church that Luther
nailed his 95 theses.
Today the city of Wittenberg is a site of pilgrimage for Christians, especially Protestants,
who want to get in touch with the roots of their faith.
And as we continue down the River Elbe we come to Worlitz Park, situated by the small
town of the same name. It's the largest of the English Parks in Germany.
When Prince Leopold the Third took a trip through Europe in the 18th Century, he returned
to Germany influenced by the ideas of the French and English Enlightenment.
He sought to supplant the prevalent Baroque Garden aesthetic, which was very geometric
and ordered, with a new naturalistic approach. Islands, hidden statues and massive palaces
rise up out of the woods and lagoons. These manmade structures and works of art were designed
to blend seamlessly with nature.
The park even boasts the first man-made volcano, as Leopold was deeply inspired by Mount Vesuvius
during his travels through Italy.
The overriding concept of the garden was influenced primarily by the writings of Rousseau. The
French philosopher sought to incorporate nature into everyday life and use it as an educational
tool. Schools and houses of worship for a number of religions are prevalent in the garden.
Synagogues were built alongside churches here to highlight the religious tolerance of the
Enlightenment.
And in the centre of a small town near Worlitz is the Oranienbaum palace.
Architects and engineers were brought in from the 'low countries' to create this Baroque-style
building and landscape.
When Leopold's great grandfather married into the Dutch royal line, he built this palace
and gardens as a summer residence for his new wife.
The gardens surrounding the palace consist of Europe's largest orangery, which boasts
the most diverse variety of heirloom citrus fruits in Europe.
From Germany's heritage to more current concerns...
The Saxony-Anhalt region is a leader in renewable energy. 44% of the state's consumption is
from wind power.
However, most of the country's energy still comes from lignite, a low-grade coal.
This derelict power plant in Muldenstein, situated above the Elbe, was built during
World War I to supply electricity to the East German rail system in the area.
After World War II the station was commandeered by a Soviet aircraft engine company. Much
of the equipment for the power plant was taken back to Russia in the 1950's.
This is the dual city of Bitterfeld and Wolfen.
Like many East German towns the economy here was primarily based on the discovery of lignite
and the subsequent heavy industry that grew up around it.
Now the industry in the city is geared largely towards the production of solar cells.
And running through the town is the A9, which connects many of Germany's major cities, from
Munich to Berlin.
Many of the East-West highways during the Cold War were restricted and empty. After
unification however, roads like this expanded to become major paths of transit.
Like most highways in Germany there is no speed limit.
Now we move westward over vast tracks of farmland into the neighbouring state of Thuringia.
The expanse of open fields is interrupted by this massive complex: the Rassnitz Youth
Prison.
A prime example of the German government's belief in rehabilitation, the prison offers
its inmates a second chance. Schools and libraries promote professional study; while greenhouses,
workshops and sports halls offer more hands on experience.
Germany's economic boom came from the discovery of lignite during the industrial revolution,
and the resource has been a major driver ever since.
Energy produced this way is a point of serious environmental contention in Germany. This
power station in Schkopau pumps out 5 billion kilograms of carbon dioxide a year.
Further down the Elbe is the town of Freyburg.
Known as 'the Tuscany of the north' Freyburg is the northernmost wine growing region in
Europe, and has been producing the drink for over 1,000 years.
The history and growth of the town has been inextricably linked to this hilltop fortress,
Neuenburg Castle.
It was built in 1090 by a Thuringian Count, but has changed hands several times.
The Swedes captured it during the 30 Years War, a conflict over the development of Protestantism.
Then, it passed from the Prussians to the French, and back to the Prussian's again.
Now it is primarily known as a pilgrimage site for sports enthusiasts, as it is where
Friedrich Ludwich Jahn, the 'father of modern gymnastics' is buried.
Now on to the village of Saaleck, which sits beneath two hilltop castles.
Built on a limestone ridge to the west, these two towers used to be the core of a much larger
defensive area.
And on the cliff face to the East sits Rudelsburg Castle, built in the 12th century to protect
trade routes.
Throughout its turbulent history, the fortress witnessed many battles and seiges -- but after
extensive reconstruction in the 1990s, Rudelsburg Castle is now a popular tourist destination
and the meeting place for Germany's oldest student fraternity.
Windmills served as the country's pre-industrial powerhouses for over six hundred years.
Many have been beautifully restored, like this rotating-cap windmill, just outside our
next stop...
...The city of Apolda, historically a textile manufacturing centre.
Almost the entire city is composed of these plattenbau, or public housing blocks.
Serious housing shortages followed the devastation of World War II. This particular style proved
ideal throughout East Germany, as they were cheap and easy to construct.
In contrast, is Thuringia's farmland, which actually makes up almost half the state.
A whole range of crops flourish in these fertile soils, adding to the region's culinary reputation.
Nearby is the medieval castle of Denstedt.
Like many of these noble residences, it was devastated during the 30 Years War in the
17th century.
400 years later, it was commandeered by the Red Army as a base.
Today, Denstedt is in private hands, and investors are considering ways of putting the castle
to use, possibly as a sports centre or health spa.
In the state of Thuringia, few cities can rival the historic and cultural importance
of Weimar.
It was here, after World War I, that the first democratic constitution of Germany was signed.
In fact, from then until the rise of the Third Reich, the country was known as the 'Weimar
Republic'. The National Convention even sat here in 1919 because Berlin was deemed to
be too dangerous due to the rioting during the German Revolution.
The city even has a literary genre to its name: Weimar Classicism. This came about as
a result of the work of Goethe and Schiller, who both spent much of their working lives
here.
This is the City Palace of Weimar.
Originally built in the 10th century, and modified ever since, it was home to barons
for over 300 years.
In 1923, it was converted into a museum which continued through Nazi and communist rule
-- right up to present day.
And at the cultural heart of Weimar is the National Theatre.
Established in 1492, the GDR used it constantly to stage plays - as this medium was considered
a very useful propaganda tool during the regime.
And the city remains a cultural hub even today.
The recently built Congress Centre functions as a new-age counterpart to the national theatre.
It served as a venue for large-scale acts during the 1970's, even hosting a number of
western artists from beyond the iron curtain.
It was drastically renovated in 1999, in the same year Weimar was declared Europe's Cultural
City.
But Weimar's history isn't all cheery.
Just 8 kilometres away is Buchenwald, the first and largest Nazi concentration camp
to be built on German soil.
Today it serves as a museum and memorial to commemorate the deaths of 56,000 prisoners
between 1938 and 1945.
The most infamous of the camp commandants was Karl Otto Koch, whose wife, Ilse, came
to be known as 'The Witch Of Buchenwald,' for her horrific and sadistic treatment of
the captives.
The diseased and starving prisoners at the complex were also used in mass medical experiments,
notably trial vaccines, which led to countless painful deaths.
Buchenwald was finally liberated by American forces in April, 1945
Now moving out of the grim past and westward, we arrive at Thuringia's capital city, Efurt.
Well-positioned on a ford across the river Gera, the city became a centre for the trade
of woad, a flower used to create a highly sought-after blue dye in the Middle Ages.
Erfurt has a special place in the modern German psyche, as it was the location of the first
meeting between chancellors from the East and West in 1970.
And at the centre of town is the Erfurt Cathedral. It was here that Martin Luther was ordained
in 1507.
The building was originally constructed in the Romanesque style for bishop Boniface in
800, but gothic additions were built during the middle ages.
Perhaps the most unique feature of Efurt is the Kramerbrucke.
Translated as the 'Grocer's Bridge', this structure has a much layered history. Quite
literally.
After a wooden footbridge burnt down seven times in the 13th century a stone one was
commissioned.
Once this fire-proof crossing was in place, houses and shops started to build up along
the edges.
Now the whole structure is municipal property except for four privately owned sections,
lost somewhere amongst the clutter.
Away from the city, we pass woodland that makes up one one third of Thuringia.
The region is reputed for its hunting, as well as game sausages made from the wild animals
found here.
And marking the landscape is what's left of the old border which once separated East and
West Germany.
1,393 kilometres of fortifications extended along the entire length of inner Germany.
Today, it's protected as a European Green Zone, a space for everyone to enjoy.
One of the earliest fortified towns in Thuringia, is Muhlhausen.
It was a major power through the 13th and 15th centuries.
But perhaps it is best known for being the chief seat of the Anabaptist movement, during
the Reformation.
The movement rejects the notion of baptism at birth, and believes only adults who are
old enough to express their faith can be baptised.
Thomas Muntzer, one of the leaders of the movement, preached in the Church of Saint
Mary in 1525. He was later captured and executed in the city. Nevertheless, Anabaptism took
hold and is one of the biggest Christian denominations in Germany today.
Beech, Ash, and Maple run through Hainich National Park. It is the longest stretch of
deciduous woodland in all of Germany.
The park is considered a perfect blend of culture and nature, and is famous for its
sustainable tourism.
Now we cross the border of the Park into Eisenach. The town began as three separate villages
which grew into each other over time.
Today, it is spread out below the watchful eye of Wartburg castle.
It's greatest claim is that Martin Luther translated the New Testament from Latin to
German whilst residing here.
He worked under the pseudonym of Junke Jorge to avoid detection.
Later on the castle became a place of nationalistic and religious pilgrimage and a symbol of the
unification of Germany.
Now it's a location for student gatherings and other festive events.
Before the re-unification of East and West Germany, there were plenty of brutal ways
to deter illegal border crossings. Ditches, *** traps, minefields and watch towers were
strategically placed along the divide.
This particular tower, the BT-9 model, still stands as a reminder of the Cold War.
Prevalent throughout the 1970s, it had firing ports in all four walls.
But as the fence began to deteriorate in places, savage guard dogs were deployed to defend
these open areas.
It was estimated that at the height of the GDR there were about 5,000 dogs defending
such gaps.
But these days, to cross from East to West, it's as easy as jumping on the highway. Spanning
the Werra river is this E40 motorway bridge.
Planned and designed in 1940, the project didn't have the necessary funding until 1983.
It was a significant undertaking in that it was one of the first joint ventures between
East and West Germany, costing approximately 75 million dollars at the time.
732 metres long, it was constructed using tensile steel cables to 'squeeze' the concrete
together.
Looming over this small town in Hesse is the ever-growing salt hill of Monte Kali.
The area went through a boom in the industrial revolution, and the discovery of the nearby
Wintershall potash mines brought the first industrial jobs to the community.
Potash is one of the three main fertilizers in large-scale agriculture. But the process
of extracting the usable potassium salts results in tons of solid salt waste.
The mountainous landfill started in 1973, and has been growing ever since, now covering
an area of 55 hectares.
A 1.5 kilometre long conveyor belt transfers 10,000 tons of waste to the pile every day.
There are now 150 million tons of waste salt on this mountain. And many tourists climb
the 200 metre mound every year.
The mine is run by Kali and Salz Salt Works. This facility is the company's largest, and
one of most profitable, in all of Germany.
Although this site sustains about 6,000 jobs, the Werra River, which runs alongside, is
now the most polluted in central Europe.
But plans to transfer the excess waste into the North Sea have been finalized, which should
help restore the river.
Often referred to as Germany's Green heart, many consider the Thuringian Forest to be
the poetic and philosophical soul of their country.
At roughly 5,000 square kilometres and dotted with sleepy villages throughout the dense
forest, this area has been the inspiration to the likes of Bach, Martin Luther and Goethe.
When asked why he chose this location Goethe replied: "where else in the world does one
find such beauty in such a small place?"
And an ideal way to take in the magnificent views over the treetops, is to climb the 111
steps of Carl-Alexander Tower, which also overlooks the small town of Ruhla.
And finally, tucked away in a romantic corner of the Thuringian Forest, is Reinhardsbrunn
Castle.
In its 900 years, it's passed through various hands and undergone many changes. What we
see today dates back to the 17th century, and now surround by an English style park.
For centuries the castle was home to nobles and royalty. It's here Queen Victoria of Britain,
on one of her trips through Germany, famously met her future husband, Prince Albert.
Reinhardsbrunn serves as a lasting symbol of the German love of architecture and the
beauty of nature.
A perfect place to end this journey.