Tip:
Highlight text to annotate it
X
>>
>> FROM GROWING UP IN MILWAUKEE
TO HOW HE CAME TO RIDE THE OSCAR
MAYER WEINERMOBILE WITH JULIA
CHILD.
JUST SOME OF THE STORIES WE'LL
SHARE WITH AN AWARD-WINNING CHEF
AND RESTAURATEUR FROM HIS
MEMOIR, "GOOD STOCK, LIFE ON A
LOW SIMMER."
CHEF SANFORD D'AMATO RETURNS AS
MY SPECIAL GUEST NEXT ON "I
REMEMBER."
>> HI, I'M JIM PECK.
WELCOME TO "I REMEMBER."
JOINING ME AGAIN AGAIN IS CHEF
SANFORD D'AMATO.
LAST TIME WE GOT TOGETHER IT WAS
AT COQUETTE, ONE OF THE TWO
MILWAUKEE RESTAURANTS HE AND HIS
WIFE ANGIE OWNED AT THE TIME.
NOW SANDY'S PUT TOGETHER A
MEMOIR FILLED WITH HIS
ADVENTURES IN THE CULINARY
WORLD, AS WELL AS SOME OF HIS
FAVORITE RECIPES.
LET'S TAKE A LOOK.
>> IT'S THE STORY OF SANFORD
D'AMATO, ONE OF THE MOST
RESPECTED CHEFS IN THE COUNTRY.
A KID FROM THE MIDWEST, SANDY
GREW UP IN MILWAUKEE WHERE HIS
FATHER RAN A FAMILY GROCERY
STORE.
D'AMATO'S GROCERY WAS STARTED BY
SANDY'S SICILIAN GRANDFATHER.
IN THE BUILDING WHERE THE FAMILY
STORE ONCE OPERATED, SANDY AND
HIS WIFE ANGIE OPENED THEIR
FIRST RESTAURANT, SANFORD, IN
1989.
IN THE EARLY 1970'S, SANDY
TRAINED AT THE CULINARY
INSTITUTE OF AMERICA IN NEW
YORK.
HIS COOKING EXPERIENCE INCLUDES
WORKING AT DEIMONICO'S IN MEXICO
CITY AND LEARNING FROM TOP
FRENCH CHEFS AT RESTAURANTS IN
NEW YORK CITY.
SANDY RETURNED TO MILWAUKEE IN
1980 AND BECAME THE CHEF AT JOHN
BYRON'S.
IN 1990, HE AND ANGIE CELEBRATED
THE FIRST ANNIVERSARY OF
SANFORD, AND IN 1999, THEY
OPENED ANOTHER RESTAURANT,
COQUETTE CAFE.
SANFORD D'AMATO BECAME A JAMES
BEARD AWARD WINNER, WHEN HE WAS
NAMED BEST CHEF-MIDWEST.
HE HAS HOSTED EVENTS WITH
VISITING CHEFS, COOKED FOR THE
DALAI LAMA, AND WAS SPECIALLY
CHOSEN TO COOK FOR JULIA CHILD'S
80th BIRTHDAY CELEBRATION.
AFTER SELLING THE RESTAURANTS,
SANDY RELEASED HIS BOOK "GOOD
STOCK, LIFE ON A LOW SIMMER."
IT IS MORE THAN THE MEMOIR OF
CHEF SANFORD "SANDY" D'AMATO.
IT ALSO INCLUDES MORE THAN 80 OF
HIS FAVORITE RECIPES.
S.
>> I MENTIONED IT IN THE TEASE,
BUT I GOT TO TELL YOU, IT WAS
SOME YEARS AGO, I WAS VISITING
MILWAUKEE, BACK FROM CALIFORNIA
AND I WAS AT THE PFISTER HOTEL,
I WALKED OUT OF THE PFISTER AND
THERE WAS A CROWD AND THIS FUNKY
MUSIC BAND AND I SAID WHAT'S
GOING ON AND I SEE THE OSCAR
MAYER WIENERMOBILE.
THAT'S COOL, THE DOOR OPENS AND
OUTCOMES JULIA CHILD AND OUT
NEXT CAME --
>> ME.
>> YOU.
HOW DID YOU AND JULIA CHILD GET
TO BE IN THE OSCAR MAYER
WIENERMOBILE TOGETHER?
>> RIGHT AFTER WE OPENED SANFORD
IN 1990, AND I WAS ONE OF THE
FOUNDERS OF AIWF.
>> WHICH IS.
>> AMERICAN INSTITUTE OF WINE
AND FOOD AND WE BROUGHT JULIA TO
MILWAUKEE, SHE CAME FOR THE
OPENING OF THE CHAPTER, SO WE
WERE WITH HERE FOR FOUR DAYS
TAKING HER AROUND THE STATE AND
PART OF THAT WAS WE TOOK A TRIP
UP TO PROVIMI VEAL ON THEIR JET
AND SO ON THE WAY BACK, WE
WERE -- ACTUALLY, HER AIDE,
GABRIELLE SAYLES, SHE WAS
LOOKING OUT THE WINDOW AND
CALLED ME OVER TO THE WINDOW AND
SAID SANDY, WHAT IS THAT OUT
THERE?
AND I LOOKED OUT AND I SAID,
THIS IS GREAT, IT'S THE OSCAR
MAYER WIENERMOBILE, SHE SENT THE
WIENERMOBILE TO PICK US UP AND
GABRIELLE SAID I DON'T THINK SO.
AND I WAS REALLY DISAPPOINTED,
BECAUSE THE FIRST TIME THAT I
HAD SEEN THE OSCAR MAYER
WIENERMOBILE WAS IN MY DAD'S
STORE.
I WAS FIVE YEARS OLD AND THEY
USED TO COME AROUND AND LITTLE
OSCAR AT THAT TIME, THE DOOR
WOULD OPEN AND LITTLE OSCAR
WOULD COME OUT, HE WAS ABOUT
4'5" IN A FLOPPY HAT AND I SAW
HIM WALK OUT AND I STARTED
SCREAMING AND RAN TO THE BACK OF
THE STORE, SO ALL THE KIDS IN
THE NEIGHBORHOOD GOT TO GO
THROUGH THE WIENERMOBILE, GOT
THE *** WHISTLES AND I MISSED
OUT, AND SO I THOUGHT, WELL, I'M
GOING TO MISS OUT AGAIN AND
JULIA LOOKS OVER AT THE WINDOW
AND SAYS I THINK I WOULD LIKE TO
GO ON THAT *** BUS AND IT WAS
LIKE JULIA, WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN
ALL MY LIFE.
SO THIS -- WHAT HAPPENED NEXT
WAS ONE OF THE MOST SURVEAL
THINGS THAT'S EVER HAPPENED IN
MY LIFE.
I'M SITTING IN THE WIENERMOBILE
WITH JULIA CHILD AND WE'RE
BLOWING OUR WHISTLES AND THE
MUSIC IS BLARING AS WE'RE GOING
DOWN 94.
>> "I WISH I WERE AN OSCAR MAYER
*** ♪ .
>> AND I'M SURE THIS WHOLE
*** CURIOUS CROWD HAD TO
FIGURE THIS WAS THE LARGEST CHEF
THAT'S EVER WALKED OUT OF THE
WIENERMOBILE.
>> I WAS EXPECTING LITTLE OSCAR,
AN HERE COMES, YOU KNOW, 6-FOOT,
WHATEVER, JULIA.
WHAT WAS SHE LIKE?
>> SHE WAS AMAZING IN THAT
TRAVELING WITH HER THAT FOUR
DAYS, THE FIRST DAY WE WERE WITH
HER, WE WENT TO THREE BROTHERS,
AND ANGIE WAS ON THE SIDE OF HER
AND SHE WAS TALKING TO ANGIE
ABOUT YOU KNOW, TELL ME ABOUT
YOUR FAMILY, AND ALL THIS, AND
SHE SAID THAT HER MOTHER HAD A
RESTAURANT ON THE WEST SIDE OF
MILWAUKEE, JUST ONE OF MANY
THINGS THAT WE TALKED ABOUT, SO
OVER THE FOUR DAYS, SHE MUST
HAVE MET 1200 PEOPLE.
THE LAST DAY, WE HAD THE DINNER
AT SANFORD, AND AFTERWARDS,
THERE WERE -- THE VALET WAS OUT
IN FRONT AND JULIA WALKED OUT
AND ANGIE'S MOTHER WAS AT THE
DINGER -- DINNER, SO SHE
INTRODUCED HERSELF TO JULIE AND
SAID, SO HOW'S THAT RESTAURANT G
YOU HAVE A RESTAURANT ON THE
SOUTH SIDE.
SHE JUST TRULY LISTENED TO
EVERYONE, THAT WAS TALKING TO
HER AND I SAW THAT THROUGHOUT
THE TIME THAT WE WERE WITH HER,
WITH EVERYBODY -- EVERYBODY THAT
WE MET THROUGH THAT TIME.
SHE TRULY CARED AND SHE ALSO
ALWAYS ASKED THE QUESTION, THAT
FOR ME, I WOULD THINK, WHY
DIDN'T I ASK THAT.
I MEAN, SHE WAS ALWAYS GETTING
THE MOST OUT OF PEOPLE.
>> IF SHE -- MENTIONED GOING TO
THE THREE BROTHERS AND SHE
DIDN'T LIKE TO SHARE FOOD, I
HEARD.
>> NO.
NO.
WELL, WE WERE ORDERING, SHE WAS
ORDERING THE PIG AND SHE WAS
ORDERING THE LAMB AND WE SAID,
JULIA, IF THERE'S SOMETHING ELSE
YOU WANT TO TRY, WE'LL ORDER IT
AND YOU CAN TRY IT AND SHE SAID
NO, YOU ORDER WHAT YOU WANT,
BECAUSE I DO NOT SHARE FOOD AND
I DON'T EXPECT ANYONE ELSE TO
SHARE FOOD.
>> WOW.
>> AND SHE DIDN'T LIKE THE
WHOLE, YOU KNOW, PLATE PASSING
AROUND THING, BECAUSE AT THAT
TIME, THERE WAS THAT WHOLE --
THE WHOLE DESSERT THING, I DON'T
KNOW WHAT THEY CALLED IT, THE
DESSERT CRUSH OR SOMETHING LIKE
THAT, WHERE YOU'D GET A DESSERT
AND THEN YOU WOULD PASS IT
AROUND TO 12 PEOPLE AND IT USED
TO BE, YOU WOULD GET THIS LITTLE
MESS AT THE END.
>> IT LOOKED AWFUL.
>> AND YOU DIDN'T EVEN KNOW WHAT
THE DESSERT WAS BY THAT TIME.
>> YOU IN YOUR BOOK, MENTIONED A
FELLOW BY THE NAME OF BOB SPITZ,
WHO WROTE A BOOK ABOUT JULIA AND
BOB WAS ON THE SHOW AND ONE OF
THE THINGS, I SAID WHAT DON'T I
KNOW ABOUT JULIA CHILD AND HE
SAID SHE WASN'T A VERY GOOD
COOK.
>> WELL, YOU KNOW, THAT'S HOW
SHE STARTED OUT.
AND SHE REALLY -- SHE REALLY
BECAME A STUDENT OF FOOD.
AND AT THE TIME, YOU KNOW,
ACTUALLY, I NEVER HAD ANYTHING
MADE BY JULIA.
>> YOU SAID SHE WAS PRETTY MUCH
THE WAY SHE WAS ON THE SHOW,
SORT OF THROW IT TOGETHER AND
THAT'S THE WAY SHE COOKED AT HER
HOME.
>> IT WAS TRADITIONALLY KNOWN IF
YOU WENT OVER TO JULIA HOUSE IN
CAMBRIDGE, PEOPLE THAT KNEW HER,
WHAT YOU WOULD GET WAS TUNA
SALAD WITH MAYONNAISE, SHE WOULD
OPEN UP A CAN OF TUNA,
MAYONNAISE, SALT AND PEPPER AND
THAT WAS YOUR DINNER.
>> SANFORD'S WAS SUCH AN ICONIC
THING.
WHAT IS PRIMARY IF YOU'RE OWNING
A RESTAURANT 70 THE FOOD OR THE
SERVICE?
IF YOU OWN A RESTAURANTS, ONE
HAS TO TAKE PRECEDENCE.
>> FOR US, PEOPLE COME INTO THE
RESTAURANT THE FIRST TIME FOR
THE FOOD, BECAUSE THEY HEAR
ABOUT THE FOOD.
PEOPLE COME BACK TO A RESTAURANT
FOR THE SERVICE.
PEOPLE WILL COME BACK TO A
RESTAURANT WITH GREAT SERVICE,
AND WITH MEDIOCRE FOOD.
PEOPLE WILL NOT COME BACK TO A
RESTAURANT WITH GREAT SERVICE
AND HORRIBLE FOOD.
>> I WONDER IF SERVERS ARE AWARE
OF THAT.
THEY ARE WHY PEOPLE COME BACK.
I WENT TO A RESTAURANT, NOT
HERE, WHERE THE FOOD WAS
TERRIFIC, SERVICE WAS SO BAD, I
NEVER WENT BACK TO THAT PLACE.
>> YOU HAVE TO BE IN THAT
COMFORT ZONE, AND TO ACTUALLY
ENJOY THE FOOD.
AND TO ME, I ALWAYS THOUGHT, YOU
KNOW, MY WIFE ANGIE RAN THE
FRONT OF THE HOUSE.
>> RIGHT, THAT WAS HER AREA.
>> WELL, WHETHER WE OPENED UP
SANFORD, SANFORD WAS MY DREAM.
IT WAS HER EXECUTION.
THAT MADE THE RESTAURANT
SUCCESSFUL.
BECAUSE SHE RAN THE FRONT OF THE
HOUSE, SHE DID EVERYTHING,
PAYROLL, BILLS, INSURANCE,
ANYTHING THAT HAD TO DO WITH THE
RESTAURANT.
ALL I HAD TO DO WAS TAKE CARE OF
THE FOOD AND THE WINE.
>> WAS THAT ALL?
>> NO.
BUT RUNNING A BUSINESS, I MEAN,
I CAN WORK FOR SUNDAY, AND JUST
TAKE CARE OF THE FOOD, BUT WHEN
YOU'RE RUNNING A BUSINESS,
THERE'S SO MUCH MORE TO IT.
AND SHE TOOK CARE OF ALL OF
THAT, AND PLUS, THE SERVICE WAS
FLAWLESS.
>> IT WAS INCREDIBLE.
I CAN'T THINK OF ANOTHER
RESTAURANT IN AMERICA WHERE I'VE
EVER BEEN, SERIOUSLY, WHERE THE
SERVICE WAS AS GOOD.
NO ONE INTRODUCED THEMSELF TO
ME, YOU KNOW, HI, I'M JIM, I'LL
BE TAKING CARE OF YOU TONIGHT.
NOBODY INTERRUPTED, WOULD YOU
LIKE MORE WATER?
I DON'T KNOW.
IS THE WATER GLASS FULL OR
EMPTY?
IF IT'S FULL, I PROBABLY DON'T.
IF IT'S EMPTY, FILL IT UP, BUT
DON'T KEEP COMING UP AND
INTERRUPTING.
>> RIGHT.
IF YOU NOTICE SERVICE, THERE'S A
PROBLEM WITH THE SERVICE.
>> YES.
>> GREAT SERVICE, IT SHOULD BE A
SEAMLESS AMALGAMATION OF SERVICE
AND FOOD.
YOU SHOULD BE THERE, NOT --
GREAT SERVICE AND GREAT FOOD, I
ALWAYS BELIEVE, ARE IN
RETROSPECT.
THAT YOU GO IN AND YOU HAVE A
GREAT TIME, YOU KNOW, YOU'RE IN
CHARGE.
BEING THERE.
YOU SHOULD HAVE A WONDERFUL TIME
AND THEN WHEN YOU LEAVE THE
RESTAURANT, THEN YOU SAY, BOY,
THAT WAS WONDERFUL.
THAT SALMON WAS GREAT, AND
SERVICE WAS WONDERFUL.
>> I DON'T REMEMBER ANYONE
FILLING MY WATER, BUT I REACHED
FOR IT AND SOMEBODY HAD BEEN
THERE.
YOU RAISED AN INTERESTING POINT.
YOU SAID, YOU'RE IN CHARGE,
MEANING ME, THE CUSTOMER, BUT
THERE ARE CHEFS WHO, YOU KNOW,
THE CHEF WON'T DO A STEAK IF
IT'S WELL DONE.
WHO'S RIGHT?
>> WELL, THE CHEF IS WRONG.
I KNOW THAT.
PERFECT EXAMPLE, MY UNCLE, HE
CAME IN TO THE RESTAURANT EARLY
ON, WHEN -- PROBABLY ABOUT THE
FIRST MONTH WE WERE OPEN, AND HE
ORDERED THE BEEF THAT WE HAD ON
THE MENU, HE SAID -- AND HE WAS
ALMOST APOLOGIZING, THAT HE
WANTED IT WELL DONE, AND WHICH
IS FINE, BECAUSE IT'S -- BECAUSE
FOR ME, IT'S AS HARD TO COOK
STEAK WELL DONE WELL, DO IT NOT
WELL-WELL, BUT DO IT REALLY
WELL, AS IT IS TO DO A MEDIUM
RARE OR A MEDIUM, BECAUSE A LOT
OF CHEFS, NOT A LOT, BUT SOME
CHEFS, YOU KNOW, THEY HEAR THAT
AND SAY WELL DONE, YEAH, I'LL
GIVE THEM WELL DONE.
>> YOU GET A HOCKEY PUCK.
>> EXACTLY.
BUT YOU WANT IT TO BE WELL DONE,
BUT STILL JUICY AND STILL, YOU
KNOW, PALATABLE, AND AFTERWARDS,
HE SAID, YOU KNOW, HE SAID THE
STEAK WAS PERFECT, HE SAID, AND
I WANT TO TELL YOU WHY I ORDERED
WELL DONE.
WHEN I WAS GROWING UP, MY MOTHER
WAS A HORRIBLE COOK.
BUT SHE -- WHEN SHE WOULD COOK
MEAT, IT WOULD ALWAYS BE RARE
AND IT WOULD BE BLOODY AND SHE
SAID, IT USED TO MAKE ME
PHYSICALLY SICK, AND SO I JUST
CAN'T -- IF I SEE BROAD AT
WALL -- BLOOD AT ALL, IT JUST
REMINDS ME OF THAT AND FOR ME
REINFORCED THE FACT THAT A LOT
OF PEOPLE SAY, YOU KNOW, THAT
THERE'S NOT A REASON FOR, YOU
KNOW, THE WAY THAT YOU EAT OR
WHATEVER.
I MEAN, THERE'S EVERY REASON FOR
YOUR LIKES AND DISLIKES FOR GOOD
GROWING UP.
IT'S WHAT YOU -- FOR FOOD
GROWING UP.
IT'S WHAT YOU EXPERIENCED
GROWING UP.
>> WAS THERE A MOMENT WHEN YOU
SAID I'M GOING COOK.
>> I WAS GOING TO UWM, IN MY
SECOND YEAR AND I ALREADY
STARTED COOKING.
I SATURDAYED AT KALT'S
RESTAURANT.
>> I REMEMBER THAT.
GREAT FISH FRY.
>> THAT WAS MY FIRST JOB.
>> REALLY?
>> YEAH.
THAT WAS THE FIRST TIME I REALLY
GOT BEAT UP IN A PLACE AND IT
WAS DURING THE FRIDAY NIGHT FISH
FRY.
>> WHAT HAPPENED?
>> WELL, I WAS WORKING DURING
THE DAY, I STARTED AS A KITCHEN
HELPER, AND I LEARNED KIND OF
EVERYTHING, THAT I WAS -- WELL,
HOPEFULLY I WAS TAUGHT
EVERYTHING GOING ALONG AND A BIG
PART OF KALT'S WAS NOT JUST A
FISH FRY, WAS THE ONION RINGS,
BREADED ONION RINGS ON EVERY
TABLE.
AT LUNCH I GOT FAIRLY PROFICIENT
AT IT BECAUSE WE WEREN'T THAT
BUSY.
MY FIRST FRIDAY NIGHT I WAS
BEGGING THEM TO WORK AT NIGHT
BECAUSE A BIG DEAL COOKING WAS
GOING ON AT NIGHT AND I WAS
MISSING IT ALL AT LUNCH.
THEY PUT ME ON THE BREADING
STATION AND I GOT A COUPLE
ORDERS OF ON I DON'T KNOW RINGS,
BECAUSE I STARTED OUT ON
WEDNESDAY, YOU KNOW, SO
WEDNESDAY I WAS FINE, -- FRYING,
THURSDAY I WAS FRYING AND FRIDAY
CAME, I STARTED THE FIRST COUPLE
ORDERS, AND I THOUGHT, YEAH,
THIS IS A SNAP AND THEN THE RUSH
HIT AND I'M ABOUT 35, 40 HOURS
DOWN AND THE CHEF, THE WOMAN WHO
HAD TRAINED ME WALKS OVER AND
SHE SAYS, SHE SAYS, MOVE, YOU
KNOW, AND SHE CAME IN AND THEN I
JUST SAW A BLUR OF HANDS, AND
SHE KNOCKS OUT ALL THESE ORDERS,
AND THEN SHE'S SITTING OVER
THERE SIPPING HER SODA AND SAID
IT'S NOT SO EAST IS IT.
I TOLD YOU THE FIRST DAY, ONE
HAND FOR WET, ONE HAND FOR DRY.
>> AND YOU HAD STUFF --
>> I LOOKED AT MY HANDS AND THEY
WERE JUST LIKE BIG MITTENS, JUST
COMPLETELY COVERED, I COULDN'T
EVEN USE THEM.
THEY WERE USELESS.
>> YOU TALK ABOUT THE SPEED AND
THAT'S SOMETHING THAT'S ALWAYS
AMAZED ME, THAT YOU SIT IN A
RESTAURANT AND YOU FILL UP AND
YOU KNOW THAT IN THE KITCHEN,
THE TICKETS ARE COMING.
AND SOMEBODY HAS GOT TO BE ABLE
TO GET THOSE AND GET IT ALL OUT
AND EVERYTHING HAS GOT TO GET
THERE, FOUR PEOPLE, ALL FOUR
DINNERS HAVE TO GET THERE AT THE
SAME TIME.
HOW LONG DID IT TAKE YOU BEFORE
YOU COULD DO ALL THAT STUFF?
>> WELL, THE CHEF THAT I -- I
WENT TO SCHOOL, THE CULINARY
SCHOOL, PETER VANNER, HE TOLD
PERFORMERS SOMETHING -- VON ERP,
I WORKED FOR HIM FOR A LONG
TIME, I WORKED FOR HIM IN SCHOOL
AND AFTERWARDS I WAS ON A
FELLOWSHIP AND WORKED FOR HIM
FOR A WHILE AND I TOLD ME, HE
SAID I THINK YOU SHOULD GO DOWN
TO NEW YORK AND WORK AND IT WAS
LIKE, WELT, HAVE I DONE
SOMETHING WRONG THAT YOU WANT TO
GET RID OF ME, I'M NOT DOING MY
JOSH AND HE SAID NO, HE SAID,
YOU KNOW, YOU CAME TO COOKING
THE WRONG WAY.
KIND OF BACKWARDS.
HE SAID, YOU HAVE A GREAT
PALLETTE, BUT YOU'RE SLOW AS --
>> SOMETHING HE WON'T SAY.
>> RIGHT.
HE SAID YOU HAVE TO LEARN TO
KNOCK OUT FOOD, BECAUSE MOST OF
THE PEOPLE STARTING COOKING,
WILL START IN A HIGH VOLUME
PLACE, THEY NOW HOW TO KNOCK
FOOD OUT AND DEVELOP THEIR
PALLETTE AFTERWARDS AND PUT THE
STANDARDS, THEIR STANDARDS TO
THAT FOOD.
AND SO HE SENT ME DOWN TO NEW
YORK AND THEN I JUST STARTED
WORKING IN THE HIGHER VOLUME
PLACES AND I WANTED TO GET INTO
A FRENCH RESTAURANT.
>> THAT WASN'T EASY BACK THEN?
>> WELL, IT WAS PRETTY MUCH
IMPOSSIBLE BACK THEN.
>> THAT'S ANOTHER WORD FOR IT.
>> IN THE EARLY 1970'S, BECAUSE
THE FRENCH WERE GETTING PAID
MUCH BETTER IN THE UNITED STATES
THAN THEY WERE IN FRANCE, SO
THERE WAS NO REASON FOR THE
FRENCH TO HIRE AMERICANS.
BECAUSE FIRST OF ALL, THEY
DIDN'T KNOW THE LANGUAGE, AND
THEY DIDN'T KNOW THE FOOD.
AND SO THEY THOUGHT, WELL, YOU
KNOW, WHY GO THROUGH THIS
TROUBLE, SO I'D GO -- I USED TO
GO EVERY WEEK, WHEN I MOVED TO
NEW YORK, I'D GO TO
LA CARAVELLE, TO SEE CHEF
FESSAGUET.
>> WHICH WAS PROBABLY ONE OF THE
TOP RESTAURANTS IN THE CITY.
>> IT WAS ONE OF THE TOP TWO,
THREE RESTAURANTS IN THE CITY
AND EVERY WEEK HE WOULD SATISFY
ME, OH, MR. D'AMATO, WE DON'T
HAVE ANYTHING, BUT COME BACK
NEXT WEEK AND TRY US NEXT WEEK.
I KNEW HE WASN'T GOING TO HIRE
ME.
HE DIDN'T WANT ME IN THE
KITCHEN, BUT PETER, WHO I HAD
WORKED FOR UP AT THE SCHOOL, HAD
MET CLEMENT GRANGIER, HE WAS
THE -- ONE OF THE OPENING CHEFS
AT LE PAVILLON, WHICH WHEN IT
OPENED UP AFTER THE WORLD'S
FAIR, IN 1939, THAT WAS THE
GREATEST FRENCH RESTAURANT.
>> EVERYBODY CAME OUT OF
LE PAVILLON, ALL THE GREAT
CHEFS --
>> THEY HAD ALL WORKED THERE.
>> SERVED THEIR DUTY THERE.
>> RIGHT.
AND I HAD THIS LETTER TO HIM AND
HE WAS SUPPOSEDLY WORKING
SOMETHING IN WORK AT THE PARK
LANE HOTEL.
I WENT DOWN THERE, HE WASN'T
THERE ANYMORE AND I HAD THE
LETTER AND HE SAID IF ANYBODY
WOULD KNOW IT WOULD BE CHEF
FESSAGUET AT LA CARAVELLE, AND
BY THERE TIME, THIS WAS MONTHS
AFTER I HAD BEEN COMING EVERY
WEEK, I HAD THIS MASCOT STATUS
OF HERE'S THIS SPUNKY AMERICAN
WHO WE'RE NEVER GOING TO HIRE
AND I WALKED IN AND I HADN'T
SAID ANYTHING AND HE SAID
MR. D'AMATO, WE DON'T HAVE
ANYTHING AND I SAID I FIGURED
YOU DIDN'T BUT YOU KNOW WHERE
CHEF GRANGIER IS WORKING, I HAVE
A LETTER FOR HIM AND HE TURNED
AND HE WASN'T EVEN LOOKING AT ME
WHEN HE TALKED TO ME AND HE
TURNED AROUND AND HE SAYS, YOU
KNOW CLEMENT, AND I SAID, YES,
YES, I DO.
>> OF COURSE.
>> AND THEN HE SAID, WELL,
CLEMENT ISN'T WORKING IN NEW
YORK ANYMORE.
HE SAID, BUT -- AND I DON'T HAVE
ANYTHING HERE, BUT YOU GO TALK
TO MY FRIEND ANDRE AT LUTECE AND
IT WAS JUST LIKE THAT, THIS
WHOLE FRENCH CONNECTION THING
OPENED UP, LUTECE, ANDRE SOLTNER
DIDN'T HAVE ANYTHING AND HE WENT
ME OVER TO LE LAVANDOU, AND JEAN
JACQUES IT TURNED OUT WAS REALLY
ONE OF THE ONLY PEOPLE AT THAT
TIME HIRING AMERICANS, BECAUSE
HE REALIZED THAT THEY NOT ONLY
WOULD WORK ANY HOURS THEY
WANTED, BUT THEY DIDN'T CARE
ABOUT MONEY AT ALL.
THEY JUST WANTED TO LEARN.
SO HE SAID, HE WANTED ME TO TAKE
OVER A LINE POSITION AND I JUST
WANTED TO AN APPRENTICE AND HE
SAID HE DIDN'T HAVE THAT
POSITION AN HE LET ME WORK FOR A
COUPLE OF WEEKS AND AFTER A
COUPLE WEEKS HE SAID YOU CAN'T
TAKE OVER A LINE POSITION AND I
SAID I TOLD YOU THAT WHEN I CAME
HERE AND HE SAID YOU DID, SO GO
OVER AND WORK WITH ROLAND, HE
HAS AN OPENING, AT LE VEAU D'OR
AND I WAS THE FIRST AMERICAN IN
LE VEAU D'OR'S KITCHEN.
>> HOW IMPORTANT IS IT THAT A
FRENCH -- AN AMERICAN LEARN THE
FRENCH TRADITION AND FRENCH
FOOD?
>> NOW I WOULDN'T SAY IT'S AS
IMPORTANT BUT WHAT A CHEF DOES
HAVE TO LEARN IS THEY HAVE TO
LEARN THE BASICS OF WHATEVER
THEY'RE DOING.
I MEAN, THE WHOLE THING GOING ON
IN FOOD RIGHT NOW, I MEAN, EVEN
JUST LIKE SPEAKING OF MOLECULAR
GASTRONOMY OF WHAT WAS GOING ON,
IT'S VERY THREATENING TO PEOPLE
WHEN SOMETHING NEW HAPPENS
ESPECIALLY CHEFS THAT THEY DON'T
UNDERSTAND IT.
AND -- BURR THE PEOPLE THAT ARE
DOING MOLECULAR GASTRONOMY, NOW
LIKE WD-50 IN NEW YORK, THESE
ARE ALL PEOPLE THAT HAVE A GREAT
BACKGROUND IN CLASSIC FOOD.
THEY UNDERSTAND WHAT'S GOING ON.
AND IF YOU'RE GOING TO -- YOU
KNOW, IF YOU'RE GOING TO TRY TO
BURST THE ENVELOPE, YOU BETTER
UNDERSTAND WHAT THE ENVELOPE IS
MADE OF BEFORE YOU START OUT.
>> SORT OF LIKE THE JAZZ
MUSICIAN WHO IMPROVISES WILL
ALWAYS TELL YOU, YOU START OUT
BY LEARNING CLASSICAL, LEARN ALL
THE TECHNIQUES, THEN YOU CAN
IMPROVISE.
>> WELL, I WAS THINKING OF YEARS
AGO WHEN WE WERE IN PARIS WHEN
WE WENT TO THE PICASSO MUSEUM
AND HE HAD IN THE BEGINNING OF
THE MUSEUM, THEY HAVE ALL HIS
ARTWORK OF THINGS THAT HE BOUGHT
AND PEOPLE THAT HE ADMIRED AND A
LOT OF HIS STARTING WORK AND IT
WAS ALL CLASSICAL WORK, I MEAN,
BEFORE YOU KNOW, HE DIDN'T GO IN
TO THE CUBISM BEFORE HE
UNDERSTOOD REALISM.
>> ARE THERE CERTAIN THINGS WHEN
YOU HAVE A RESTAURANT, THAT YOU
KIND OF GET STUCK, WHERE YOU
CAN'T TAKE THAT OFF THE MENU?
>> WELL, THERE'S THINGS I --
WHEN WE OPENED UP SANFORD, MY
WHOLE PLAN WAS TO CHANGE THE
MENU WEEKLY.
>> I REMEMBER THAT.
>> COMPLETE -- THE COMPLETE
MENU.
AND BEFORE WE OPENED, ABOUT
THREE WEEKS BEFORE WE OPENED,
WELL, YOU KNOW, IT WAS ACTUALLY
A LITTLE MORE THAN THAT, A
COUPLE MONTHS BEFORE WE OPENED,
HE WAS ASSISTING JACQUES PEPIN
IN A COOKING CLASS AND I
MENTIONED TO HIM THAT WE WERE
OPENING THE RESTAURANT SOON AND
I ASKED IF HE WANTED TO COME
DOWN TO SEE IT AND HE SAID IT'S
STILL UNDER CONSTRUCTION AND HE
SAID SURE.
SO I PICKED HIM UP IN THE
MORNING, DROVE DOWN AND HE ASKED
ME ABOUT WHAT THE CONCEPT WAS
AND WHERE THE KITCHEN WAS AND
HAD SOME SUGGESTIONS AND HE SAID
WHAT ARE YOU DOING WITH THE MENU
AND I WAS REALLY EXCITED ABOUT
TELLING HIM.
I SAID WE'RE GOING TO CHANGE IT,
WE'LL DO THE DISHES, IT WILL BE
GONE AND THERE WILL BE A NEW
MENU AND HE SAID YOU MIGHT WANT
TO RETHINK THAT, BECAUSE PEOPLE
COME BACK TO A RESTAURANT
BECAUSE FOR THAT COMFORT AND
THEY WANT TO HAVE SOMETHING THAT
THEY'VE HAD BEFORE.
AND THEY ALSO WANT TO BRING
PEOPLE BACK AND INTRODUCE THEM
TO THAT.
SO PART OF YOUR MENU SHOULD
ALWAYS BE CLASSICS THAT YOU DO.
AND YOU CAN CHANGE THE REST OF
THE MENU, BUT ALWAYS KEEP THE
CLASSICS, AND SO I TOOK THAT,
AND IT WAS THE BEST ADVICE I HAD
EVER GOTTEN AND WE OPENED UP
WITH PEAR AND ROQUEFORT TART AND
FISH SOUP AND CUMIN WAFERS AND
SNAPPER AND ALL OF THESE DISHES
STAYED ON OVER THE YEARS, THEY
ALL BECAME SANFORD CLASSICS, AND
AT THE TIME, AFTER YEARS, AFTER
10, 15 YEARS, I CAN REMEMBER, WE
WERE GOING TO TAKE THE SNAPPER
OFF AND WE TOOK IT OFF AND THERE
WAS THIS BIG REVOLT.
>> WHERE IS THE SNAPPER.
>> RIGHT.
IT'S BECAUSE WHEN YOU'RE
COOKING, YOU WANT TO TRY NEW
THINGS AND I PERSONALLY, EVEN
THOUGH I LOVE A DISH, I GET
TIRED OF A DISH, BUT --
>> DO YOU GET TIRED OF COOKING
CERTAIN DISHES, ARE THERE
CERTAIN THINGS IF YOU SAY IF I
MAKE ANOTHER SNAPPER, I'M GOING
TO BACK OUT OF HERE, WHATEVER --
WALK OUT OF HERE, WHATEVER IT
MIGHT HAPPEN TO BE?
>> NOT REALLY.
I JUST LIKE TO TRY NEW THINGS.
BUT I NEVER GET TIRED OF MAKING
THE INDIVIDUAL DISHES.
>> ARE YOU EVER SATISFIED WITH A
DISH?
THAT'S AS GOOD AS IT CAN GET?
>> NO.
NO.
I MEAN, I HAVE NEVER -- I MEAN,
THAT'S -- I DON'T KNOW IF
THAT'S -- I DON'T KNOW IF THAT'S
GOOD OR BAD.
I THINK IT'S GOOD FOR THE FOOD
PART OF IT.
BUT NO, I'M ALWAYS PUSHING TO GO
ON.
>> SO WHAT ARE YOU DOING NOW?
YOU SPENT ABOUT A YEAR AS WE
TAPED THIS YEAR, SINCE YOU SOLD
SANFORD.
WHAT ARE SANDY AND ANGIE D'AMATO
UP TO?
>> WELL, I HAVE MY BOOK OUT
RIGHT NOW. GOOD STOCK.
WE'RE ON A BOOK TOUR RIGHT NOW
SELLING A BOOK.
WHAT WE HAVE DONE IS THE GOOD
STOCK IS ALSO OUR FARM, IT'S
CALLED GOOD STOCK FORM, AND WE
ARE -- WE HAVE A SMALL UNDER TWO
ACRE FARM, WE'RE DOING A COOKING
SCHOOL THERE.
SO IT'S GOING TO BE IN OUR
HOUSE, WE'RE DOING THE ADDITION
RIGHT NOW, IT'S UNDER
CONSTRUCTION AND WE'RE GOING TO
HAVE A WOOD-BURNING OVEN, A BIG
TUSCAN FIREPLACE, AND WE'RE
GOING TO HAVE ALL DIFFERENT WAYS
OF COOKING THAT I'D LIKE TO BE
ABLE TO TEACH.
AND THAT'S GOING TO BE THE
FUTURE, AND IT WILL PROBABLY BE
DOING IT DURING SEASONS WHEN
THINGS COME UP, SO WITH
ASPARAGUS IS AROUND, WE'LL BE
DOING ASPARAGUS FROM THE
BACKYARD, BUT WE'RE LOCATED IN
THE PIONEER VALLEY, WHICH IS THE
BREAD BASKET OF MASSACHUSETTS,
WHERE ALL OF THE PRODUCE IS
GROWN.
>> WHY NOT WISCONSIN?
WE DESERVE A PLACE LIKE THAT?
>> WELL, I'LL TELL YOU.
I MEAN, IT'S FOLLOWING FAMILY.
WE ARE OUR GOD CONCERN OUT
THERE, OUR -- GOD CHILDREN OUT
THERE, OUR FRIENDS.
MY PARENTS PASSED AWAY.
WE DON'T HAVE A LOT OF FAMILY
HERE ANYMORE.
MY SISTER IS GONE, ANGIE'S
SIBLINGS ARE ALL AROUND THE
COUNTRY, SO WE JUST DECIDED THAT
WE WERE ACTUALLY FOLLOWING
FAMILY.
>> WOULD YOU EVER OPEN ANOTHER
RESTAURANT DO YOU THINK?
>> NO.
>> BOY, THAT CAME QUICKLY.
>> NO.
I DON'T HAVE TO THINK ABOUT
THAT.
THE RESTAURANT BUSINESS IS LIKE
WORKING ITS LINE AND WORKING THE
RESTAURANT IS A REAL YOUNG
PERSON'S GAME.
LIKE IN BASEBALL, YOU KIND OF
PEAK AS A LINE COOK AROUND 27,
28, YOU GET IN TO YOUR 30'S, YOU
KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING AND YOU
START COMPENSATING FOR THE, YOU
KNOW, BECAUSE IT'S A VERY
PHYSICAL THING TO DO AND YOU
START COMPENSATING FOR THE
PHYSICAL PART OF IT BY BEING
SMARTER ON HOW YOU WORK.
YOU GET INTO YOUR 40'S, IF
YOU'RE STILL BACK THERE, YOU
KNOW, IT'S LIKE NOLAN RYAN,
WHERE YOU'RE EITHER A FREAK OF
NATURE, A PHYSICAL FREAK THAT
YOU CAN STILL DO THIS.
OTHERWISE YOU GET INTO COACHING
AND YOU GET INTO MANAGING --
MANAGING AND THAT'S WHERE I WANT
TO BE RIGHT NOW AND I FEEL
TEACHING IS THE PLACE -- BECAUSE
I'M STILL COOKING, BUT I'M DOING
IT ON MY TERMS AND ON MY TIME
SCHEDULE.
AND THAT'S -- I'VE BEEN, YOU
KNOW, WE HAD THE RESTAURANTS FOR
23 YEARS.
I'VE BEEN COOKING FOR 47 YEARS.
A LONG TIME.
>> I WAS TELLING YOU BEFORE WE
WENT ON THE AIR, SOMEBODY
KNOWING THAT I LOVE TO GO TO
RESTAURANTS SAID WHY DON'T YOU
OPEN A RESTAURANT AND I SAID DO
YOU HATE ME?
IT'S GOT TO BE THE TOUGHEST
BUSINESS IN THE WORLD, BECAUSE
YOU'VE GOT TO BE THERE ALL THE
TIME.
>> OH, COMPLETELY.
IT'S A 24/7 AND WHEN WE OPENED
SANFORD, WE LIVED UPSTAIRS, SO
WE NEVER LEFT THE PLACE.
FOR THE FIRST FOUR YEARS.
>> WELL, WE MISS YOU, THE BOOK
BY THE WAY IS "GOOD STOCK, LIFE
ON A LOW SIMMER."
SANFORD D'AMATO, IT IS A
WONDERFUL BOOK BY THE WAY.
SO MANY GREAT RECIPES IN THERE
AND PICTURES AND I THINK ABOUT
YOUR -- THE COLUMN YOU WROTE FOR
SO LONG FOR THE "THE MILWAUKEE
JOURNAL SENTINEL."
>> THAT'S A MEMOIR.
>> IT STARTS YOU OUT AS A CUTE
KID AND BRINGS YOU UP TO
SATISFIED.
SANDY D'AMATO, THANKS FOR BEING
WITH US.
COME BACK WHENEVER YOU'RE IN
TOWN.
>> THANK YOU, JIM.
MY PLEASURE.
>> AND THANK YOU FOR BEING WITH
US.
I HOPE WE'LL SEE YOU NEXT TIME
AS WE CONTINUE TO REMEMBER.
>> THANK YOU.