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IAN: THERE HAS BEEN A LOT OF DIFFERENT SHAPED AXES FROM TINY HATCHETS,
WHICH COULD BE USED FOR SHINGLING OR SPLITTING SHINGLES,
TO BROAD AXES, WHICH WOULD BE THE OTHER END OF THE SCALE
WHICH WOULD BE USED FOR HEALING WOOD OR FLATENING SIDES OF WOOD.
A SINGLE BIT OR POLE AXE JUST HAS ONE CUTTING SURFACE.
THE OTHER END IS FLAT OR BLUNT,
AND THE BALANCE IS REALLY DIFFERENT.
TRADITIONALLY, MOST DOUBLE BIT AXES HAVE A LONGER HANDLE.
SINGLE BIT AXES WILL OFTEN HAVE A SHORTER HANDLE
AND THERE ARE ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES TO BOTH.
A DOUBLE BIT AXE IN ACTUALITY IS PROBABLY A LITTLE MORE VERSATILE
BECAUSE IT HAS ONE EDGE THAT'S FILED FOR CUTTING WOOD
AND IT'S FILED FAIRLY THIN AND NARROW FOR CHOPPING.
THE OTHER EDGE OF IT IS FILED AT A CHISEL EDGE
AND THAT CHISEL EDGE IS FOR GETTING DOWN NEAR THE GROUND AND REMOVING ROOTS
WHERE YOU'RE NOT GOING TO CHIP IT IF YOU HIT THE OCCASIONAL STONE.
IAN: AN AXE, IF IT'S USED PROPERLY, IS A REAL SAFE TOOL.
AN AXE, IF YOU CUT CORNERS, IT CAN BE A REAL DANGEROUS TOOL.
THE ONE THING THAT WE'VE SEEN IN THE PAST THAT HAVE BEEN INJURY RELATED
AND INJURIES TO ANKLES OR FEET HAS COME DOWN TO ONE SIMPLE THING.
IF WHEN YOU'RE CHOPPING ON A LOG,
IF YOU NEVER LET YOUR AXE HANDLE BREAK A PLANE THAT'S PARALLEL
WITH THE GROUND AS YOU'RE CHOPPING, THEN YOU CAN'T CUT YOUR FEET.
AND THE ONLY TIME WE BREAK THAT RULE IS WHEN WE'RE CHOPPING
WITH THE LOG BETWEEN OUR BODY AND THE AXE HEAD.
IF YOU'VE ALREADY MADE THE DECISION TO CHOP THE LOG,
THE FIRST THING I DO AGAIN IS LOOK AT THE LOG,
FIGURE OUT WHAT I'M GOING TO DO WITH IT,
WHERE'S THE BEST PLACE TO CHOP IT.
IF YOU'RE LIMBING ON A DOWNED LOG, YOU SHOULD TRYING TO BE LIMBING THE LOG
ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE FROM WHERE YOU'RE STANDING.
IN OTHER WORDS, KEEP THE LOG BETWEEN YOU AND YOUR AXE.
THE SECOND PART IS WHEN YOU'RE LIMBING,
A LOT OF TIMES YOU'LL SEE THAT THE AXE HEAD GOES THROUGH
SOME OF THE LIMBS REAL EASY,
SO IT'S PRETTY EASY TO GET WILD IN A SITUATION LIKE THAT.
SO YOU SHOULD BE REALLY CLEAR ON WHERE OTHER PEOPLE ARE
AND YOU SHOULD BE REALLY CLEAR ON WHERE YOUR SWING IS GOING.
THERE'S A LOT OF TIMES WHEN NO MATTER HOW HARD YOU TRY,
YOU HAVE TO LIMB ON THE SAME SIDE OF THE LOG THAT YOU'RE STANDING ON.
WHEN THAT HAPPENS, JUST BE DOUBLY SURE
NEVER TO LET YOUR AXE HANDLE
OR YOUR AXE HEAD DROP BELOW THE LEVEL OF YOUR
HANDS AS YOU'RE CHOPPING.
THE THIRD IS WHEN YOU'RE SWINGING TO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A
CLEAR AREA WITHIN THE COMPLETE RADIUS OR ARC OF YOUR SWING.
WHEN YOU'RE DOING THAT, YOU DON'T WANT YOUR AXE
WHEN IT'S OVER YOUR HEAD EVEN TO HIT A LITTLE BRANCH.
SOMETIMES THERE MIGHT BE A LITTLE BRANCH THAT'S OUT OF THE RADIUS
OF YOUR SWING, BUT IT'S GOING TO BE CATCHING YOUR EYE
AND IT'S GOING TO BE INTERFERING WITH YOUR VISION THE WHOLE TIME,
AND IF THAT'S THERE, TAKE THE TIME TO REMOVE IT.
IT'S TRYING TO BE AS EFFICIENT AS POSSIBLE,
SO YOU'RE GOING TO STRIKE THAT WOOD AS MANY TIMES AS IT TAKES
TO COMPLETELY SEVER YOUR CUTTING SURFACE AND THEN
MOVE TO THE OTHER SIDE,
INSTEAD OF MAKING A CHOP ON ONE SIDE,
A CHOP THE OTHER SIDE, A CHOP ON THIS SIDE,
A CHOP ON THIS SIDE
THREE TIMES IN SUCCESSION AND THEN BREAKING IT.
OFTENTIMES IN A LARGE LOG,
YOU'RE NOT GOING TO BE ABLE TO REMOVE YOUR FIRST CHIPS BY MAKING A WIDE CUT.
SO YOU START WITH A NARROW V IN YOUR CUT
AND YOU'LL CUT DOWN UNTIL YOUR V COMES TO CLOSURE
OR TO A POINT, AND THEN YOU'LL GO BACK UP
AND USUALLY ON THE STRONGEST SIDE THAT YOU HAVE,
YOU'LL REOPEN YOUR CUT SO THAT IT'S WIDER.
AS YOU COME DOWN AT FIRST,
YOU TAKE A LOT OF CARE TO DEVELOP ACCURACY.
POWER DOES NOT MATTER AT FIRST.
(CHOPPING SOUNDS)
IAN: AND AGAIN, I'M FLEXING AT THE KNEES,
ESPECIALLY WHEN I GET NEAR THIS PART OF THE CUT,
SO MY AXE HANDLE STAYS PARALLEL.
SO WORK ON YOUR ACCURACY AS YOU'RE COMING DOWN,
AND ONLY AFTER YOU HAVE THAT BALANCE AND THAT ACCURACY,
THEN POWER BECOMES A THIRD PART OF THE EQUATION.
WAIT UNTIL YOU'RE GOOD AT CHOPPING BEFORE YOU TRY TO PUT POWER INTO IT.
A LOT OF TIMES WHEN YOU'RE SWINGING,
AND YOU PICK THE AXE UP AND IT GOES BACK PAST YOUR HEAD ON EITHER SIDE,
AND YOU'LL CATCH OUT OF THE CORNER OF YOUR EYE
A LITTLE CHIP OF WOOD THAT'S STUCK ON THE AXE BLADE.
YOU SHOULD NOT TRY TO POWER THROUGH THAT CHIP.
WHEN YOU TRY TO POWER DOWN THROUGH IT,
IT CAN DEFLECT YOUR AXE AND YOU CAN END UP WITH AN INJURY.
ALSO, I ENDED UP TAKING OFF MY GLOVES PARTWAY THROUGH
BECAUSE IT'S GETTING PRETTY HOT OUT HERE AND MY HANDS STARTED GETTING SWEATY,
AND WHAT WE'RE LOOKING AT IS THE LEAST CHANCE OF HAVING AN INJURY.
AND WITH SWEATY HANDS AND THE CHANCE OF THE AXE
SLIPPING OUT OF YOUR GLOVES OR YOUR HANDS, IT'S NOT WORTH IT.
SO ALWAYS DO WHATEVER YOU CAN TO MINIMIZE THE POSSIBILITY
OF AN INJURY TO YOURSELF OR ANYONE AROUND YOU.
WHEN I FINISH THIS FIRST CUT, I'LL GO OVER AND CUT A V ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE LOG,
AND BECAUSE THE WOOD IS ALREADY REMOVED FROM THE NEAR SIDE,
WHEN I COME OVER TO THIS SIDE, IT'S ABOUT FIVE OR SIX TIMES AS QUICK TO CHOP.
SO I'M GOING TO START IT,
JUST COME DOWN, AND START MY CHIP.
MY CHIP WILL START OUT LIKE THAT.
OK, NOW MY V IS CLOSING UP.
AND WHERE I WANT MY V TO CLOSE UP IS RIGHT IN THE CENTER OF THE LOG.
IT'S CLOSING UP A LITTLE BIT SOONER.
THIS TIME I'M GOING TO OPEN IT UP ON THE LEFT SIDE.
AND THE REASON IS BECAUSE THERE'S A KNOT THAT'S CLOSER ON THE RIGHT SIDE
SO IT'S GOING TO BE EASIER CHOPPING ON THIS LEFT SIDE OF THE LOG.
WE'VE HAD A LOT OF INJURIES IN THE PAST.
YOU GET WORKING WITH AN AX AND ALL OF A SUDDEN YOU GET TO THE POINT
WHERE YOU'RE MEDIUM PROFICIENT,
AND WHEN THAT HAPPENS, IT BECOMES FUN AND IT'S LIKE,
MAN, AM I HAVING A GOOD TIME CHOPPING.
AND THAT'S WHEN I'VE SEEN
MOST OF THE INJURIES OCCUR
IS WHEN PEOPLE FINALLY START HAVING FUN
AND THEY START CHOPPING HARDER AND HARDER,
AND I'VE TRIED TO REMIND MYSELF OF THAT,
AND SO EVERY I GO, WAIT A MINUTE, SLOW DOWN,
MAKE SURE YOU'RE NOT GOING TO HURT YOURSELF
AND THEN PROCEED MORE SLOWLY.
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DOLLY: I'VE USED A LOT OF SLEDGEHAMMERS IN TRAIL WORK
BECAUSE I WORKED IN ROCKY COUNTRY,
AND WE'VE GOT HAMMERS RANGING FROM THREE TO 20 POUNDS
WITH ROUND HEADS, SQUARE HEADS AND CHISEL OR PEEN-SHAPED HEADS.
WE USE 8, 12 OR 20-POUND SLEDGEHAMMERS FOR CRUSHING ROCK.
THE MAIN FOCUS ON TECHNIQUE THAT I WANT TO BE SHOWING
IS THAT I'M BENDING MY KNEES,
BRINGING THE HAMMER DOWN FLAT WITH MY ARMS STRAIGHT
AND SWINGING FROM THE SHOULDER.
FOR SHAPING ROCKS, YOU CAN USE FOUR,
EIGHT OR 12-POUND SPALLING HAMMERS
AND THEY HAVE A PEEN ON ONE END
THAT YOU CAN SPLIT THE ROCK WITH
BY HITTING A LINE OF BLOWS ALONG WHERE YOU WANT IT TO BREAK,
AND THE FOUR POUND ONES ARE REALLY HANDY FOR SHAPING ROCKS
TO BUILD WATER BARS OR WALLS WITH.
AND WE USE THE THREE, FOUR, FIVE POUND HAMMERS
FOR CHINKING ROCKS INTO WALLS, FOR DRIVING STAKES,
FOR DRIVING FEATHERS AND WEDGES TO SPLIT ROCKS AND FOR SHAPING ROCK.
A LOT OF TIMES WE USE BIG, HEAVY MAULS FOR MOVING OR LOCATING TIMBERS
BUT THAT'S A REAL DIFFERENT JOB THAN WHEN YOU'RE MOVING ROCK
DOLLY: THE BIGGEST SLEDGEHAMMER I'VE SEEN IS MY OLD FAVORITE 20 POUNDER,
AND WE'VE USED THAT TO CRUSH ROCK AND WE'VE USED THAT
TO BUST ROCKS THAT STUCK UP IN THE TRAIL.
ACTUALLY SAVED A LOT OF TIME WE WOULD HAVE SPENT BLASTING.
IT TAKES TECHNIQUE TO SWING IT,
BUT IF YOU'VE GOT THE RIGHT TECHNIQUE,
IT'S NOT THAT HARD.
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DOLLY: PEOPLE USE ADZ HOES AND GRUB HOES IN AREAS OF THE COUNTRY
WHERE THERE IS A LOT OF LOOSE, LIGHT SOIL
AND MAYBE SOME ROOT STRUCTURE IN THERE.
THE ADZ HOE IS SHARPENED SO IT WILL CUT THROUGH THOSE ROOTS
AND YOU CAN PULL THE DIRT TOWARDS YOU WHEN YOU'RE DIGGING IN A TRAIL BENCH.
THERE ARE ALL KINDS OF SHOVELS.
I LIKE THE LONG-HANDLED, WIDE BLADED SHOVEL FOR MOVING DIRT,
AND A LOT OF TRAIL JOBS YOU NEED TO BE ABLE TO THROW DIRT FORM ONE PLACE TO ANOTHER
AND FOR THAT, YOU NEED A BIG, WIDE BLADED SHOVEL WITH A LONG HANDLE.
THE FIRE FIGHTING SHOVEL IS A STANDARD IN THE FOREST SERVICE
AND THEY ARE SHARP ENOUGH THAT YOU CAN CUT THROUGH SOD
AND CHOP THROUGH ROOTS WELL WITH THEM.
WHEN I'M USING A SHOVEL, I USE MY FOOT TO DRIVE THE BLADE INTO THE DIRT,
AND THEN I LEVER IT ACROSS MY KNEES OR THIGHS.
I CAN ALSO USE A SHOVEL TO SCRAPE BY LEVERING IT AGAINST MY BODY.
IT'S A LOT EASIER ON YOUR BACK THAT WAY.
IF YOU'RE DIGGING A LOT OF THINGS UP,
YOU'RE PROBABLY GOING TO NEED A BAR AS WELL AS A SHOVEL.
THE TAMPING BAR IS USUALLY FIVE OR SIX FEET LONG AND ROUND
AND HAS A FLAT PADDLE BLADE ON ONE END AND A BIG, ROUND,
FLATTENED TAMPING END ON THE OTHER.
AND THEY'RE GOOD FOR DIGGING POST HOLES
AND TAMPING THE DIRT BACK IN, BUT THEY'RE NOT GOOD FOR PRYING.
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YOU CAN USE ROCK BARS TO MOVE ANYTHING.
I ALWAYS LIKE THE ROCK BAR BEST OF ALL THE TOOLS.
IT WAS A GREAT EQUALIZER FOR ME.
WITH A FIVE-FOOT ROCK BAR,
I'VE GOT ONE I CALLED MY MAGIC ROCK BAR
AND IF NOBODY WAS LOOKING, I COULD MOVE ANYTHING
AND NOBODY COULD FIGURE OUT HOW I DID IT.
BUT THERE ARE 1,001 WAYS TO USE A ROCK BAR.
YOU CAN PUT IT UNDER THE ROCK AND LIFT USING THE GROUND AS A FULCRUM.
YOU CAN PUT A FULCRUM IN FRONT OF THE ROCK AND PRY OFF OF THAT.
YOU CAN USE A ROLLING MOTION TO SKID A ROCK ALONG THE GROUND
OR WORK WITH TWO PEOPLE AND ROW YOUR BOAT ROCK ACROSS THE GROUND.
YOU CAN STAB IT IN THE GROUND TO BUMP A ROCK FORWARD.
THEY ARE A VERY USEFUL TOOL FOR MOVING HEAVY ROCKS OR LOGS.
THE BOTTOM END OF A GOOD ROCK BAR IS SQUARE WITH A CHISEL TIP
AND THAT CHISEL TIP IS A TWO-INCH FULCRUM BASICALLY
THAT YOU CAN USE TO LIFT WITH,
AND THEN THE UPPER END OF IT IS USUALLY ROUND.
IT'S BEST WITH BIG ROCKS TO HAVE A TEAM OF PEOPLE.
ONCE YOU START USING ROCK BARS TO MOVE A ROCK,
YOU DON'T WANT ANYBODY IN THERE WITH THEIR HANDS ON THE ROCK
BECAUSE A ROCK BAR CAN SLIDE ACROSS THAT ROCK AND MASH FINGERS.
IAN: A TIMBER CARRIER WILL USUALLY BE ABOUT 3 1/2 FEET LONG
WITH A SWINGING HOOK IN THE CENTER OF IT,
AND IT'S A TWO-SIDED HOOK THAT GOES IN AND PICKS UP A LOG.
WHEN YOU HAVE A LOT OF PEOPLE AND FAIRLY BIG LOGS,
YOU CAN GET A LOT OF PEOPLE ON IT, CARRYING IT IN A PRETTY SAFE FASHION
IAN: A DRAW KNIFE AGAIN IS ONE OF THOSE TOOLS THAT LOOKS LIKE IT'S PRETTY SIMPLE,
BUT PEOPLE THAT ARE REALLY GOOD AT PEELING WITH IT,
YOU'LL SEE THEY HAVE A VERY DEFINITE TECHNIQUE.
THE SAME AS WITH THE PULASKI,
A LOT OF TIMES YOU DON'T PULL STRAIGHT TOWARDS YOU.
YOU ACTUALLY ANGLE THE DRAW KNIFE AT 20 OR 30 DEGREE ANGLES
SO THAT IT'S DOING SOME CUTTING AS IT'S PULLING BACK
IN THE DIRECTION OF YOUR BODY.
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ON AN AXE LIKE THIS AXE, THE HANDLE HAS BEEN IN ABOUT
TEN YEARS, AND IT'S BEGINNING TO WARP.
THERE'S NO CRACKS IN IT OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT,
BUT IT'S STILL NOT WORTH KEEPING,
BECAUSE SOMETHING IS GOING TO HAPPEN TO IT EVENTUALLY.
SO WE'RE GOING TO REPLACE THE HEAD ON THIS.
AND IF YOU'RE TAKING THE TIME TO GO THROUGH AND PUT
A NEW HANDLE INTO A TOOL AND DO IT PROPERLY,
YOU MIGHT AS WELL SELECT A GOOD HANDLE RATHER THAN USE ONE THAT'S POOR.
ONE THING THAT WE LOOK AT RIGHT OFF THE BAT IS THE HANDLE STRAIGHT.
AND IF YOU HOLD IT UP AND LOOK AT IT, BY LETTING IT DANGLE,
YOU'LL SEE IF IT'S STRAIGHT
AND YOU'LL SEE IF IT'S WARPED IN EITHER WAY.
THE SECOND IS HOW IS THE GRAIN LAYING IN THAT HANDLE?
A LOT OF HANDLES WILL HAVE THE GRAIN GOING CROSSWISE,
AND WHEN YOU ARE THINKING ABOUT A CROSS GRAIN
AND THEN YOU'RE STRIKING DOWN WITH THAT TOOL LIKE THIS,
THERE IS A REAL GOOD CHANCE OF THAT HANDLE SEPARATING
SOMETIME LATER DURING THE USE.
SO FOR THE MAXIMUM STRENGTH FOR THE WOOD THAT'S INVOLVED,
WE'D LOOK FOR GRAIN THAT RUNS STRAIGHT
RIGHT DOWN THROUGH THE LENGTH OF HANDLE.
AND THAT GRAIN SHOULD BE FAIRLY TIGHT
WITH TIGHTER GROWTH RINGS BECAUSE THE TIGHTER GROWTH RINGS
MEAN A STRONGER PIECE OF WOOD.
OTHER TIMES, AND YOU'LL SEE THIS MORE COMMONLY,
YOU'LL HAVE THE SAP WOOD AND THE OTHER HARDER WOOD.
THERE'S A LINE BETWEEN THEM.
ONE OF THE WOODS IS WHITE AND ONE IS DARKER.
WHEN YOU HAVE SOMETHING LIKE THAT, AGAIN IF YOU'RE USING IT,
THAT WOOD WILL EXPAND AND CONTRACT AT DIFFERENT RATES
AND THROUGH WORK, THERE IS A GOOD CHANCE
THAT EVEN IF IT'S A STRAIGHT GRAINED HANDLE
WITH THESE DIFFERENT COLORED WOODS,
YOU'RE GOING TO END UP WITH THIS HANDLE NOT LASTING ANYWHERE NEAR
AS LONG AS IT WOULD WITH A REAL NICE, STRAIGHT,
TIGHT GRAINED HANDLE LIKE THIS FIRST ONE.
WE'LL START BY SAWING IT OFF
RIGHT ALONG HERE, AND ONCE IT'S SAWN,
IT'LL BE PLACED IN A VICE OR A PROPER DE-HANDLING TOOL
AND THE REST OF THE HANDLE THAT'S INSIDE THE HEAD
WILL BE PUSHED OUT THROUGH THE TOP OF THE HEAD
RATHER THAN DOWN THROUGH THE BOTTOM OF THE HEAD.
IF THE HANDLE IS REALLY STUCK IN AN OLD HEAD,
YOU CAN HELP BY DRILLING IT OUT FROM EITHER THE TOP
OR BOTTOM OR BOTH SIDES.
THERE'S A SINGLE SAW KERF RIGHT DOWN THROUGH
THE CENTER OF THESE HANDLES,
AND WHEN YOU THINK ABOUT LAYING A HEAD ON THE HANDLE,
THIS HEAD IS GOING TO SEAT RIGHT DOWN NEAR
THE FATTER PART OF THE HANDLE. SO IT'S GOING TO BE DOWN THIS FAR.
SO WHAT I DO BEFORE I EVEN BEGIN IT, IS I TAKE AND DRAW A LINE
ACROSS THIS HANDLE HERE AND I CUT THAT OFF.
BECAUSE THIS MUCH IS GOING TO BE STICKING OFF.
I DON'T WANT TO MESS WITH TAKING THE TIME TO SHAPE THAT EXTRA PIECE OF WOOD.
THEN WE TAKE A THIN BLADED SAW AND WE CUT AND WE BRING THIS SAW CURVE DOWN ANOTHER INCH.
IF YOU LOOK AT THIS HANDLE IN PROFILE,
THERE'S A REALLY BIG LUMP HERE AND THEN THE HEAD COMES IN HERE.
IF YOU TAKE YOUR HEAD AND YOU BRING IT DOWN
AS CLOSE TO THAT LUMP AS POSSIBLE, YOU WANT THIS LUMP TO BLEND IN TO THIS WOOD.
AND ALL THE STRESS OF CHOPPING IS RIGHT ON THIS PART.
AND THAT'S WHERE THESE CRACKS USUALLY DEVELOP.
IF YOU TAKE AND YOU REMOVE SOME OF THIS WOOD
BY RASPING IT DOWN BEFORE YOU PUT THE HANDLE IN,
YOU'RE ACTUALLY INCREASING THE STRENGTH OF YOUR OVERALL HANDLE
AND YOU'RE DOING TWO THINGS.
YOU'RE INCREASING THE FLEX
AND YOU'RE DECREASING THE CHANCE
THAT THIS HANDLE WILL BREAK RIGHT AT THIS POINT.
I JUST PUT MY BELT SANDER UPSIDE DOWN IN THE VISE
AND THEN JUST START ROCKING THE HANDLE ITSELF ON THE BELT SANDER.
AND YOU CAN TAKE IT DOWN REAL SMOOTHLY AND EFFICIENTLY THAT WAY.
AND THAT'S TURNED OUT TO BE ONE OF THE BEST
THINGS THAT I'VE DONE.
SO IT FITS TIGHTLY.
WHEN YOU PUT THE HEAD ON,
IT'S ONLY GOING TO SLIDE PARTWAY DOWN THE HANDLE,
WHEN YOU DO THAT, YOU TURN THE AX HANDLE OVER,
THE HEAD'S PARTWAY ON IT,
AND YOU POUND DOWN WITH A PIECE OF WOOD OR A RUBBER HAMMER
AND THAT THE HEAD WILL ACTUALLY SLIDE UP THE HANDLE
AS YOU'RE POUNDING DOWN ON THE WOOD.
YOU'LL FIND THAT IT GETS CAUGHT
AND YOU CAN KNOCK THAT HEAD BACK OFF AGAIN
WITH A PIECE OF WOOD OR A HAMMER,
YOU KNOCK THE HEAD OFF AND
YOU'LL SEE RIGHT ON THE HANDLE ITSELF
WHERE IT'S DIGGING INTO THE WOOD,
OR THERE MIGHT BE A LITTLE BIT OF A MARK THERE
AND THAT'S WHERE YOU'RE GOING TO RASP DOWN,
SO THE HEAD ITSELF AS IT SLIDES ON WILL TELL YOU
THE FAT SPOTS WHERE YOU HAVE TO RASP OFF.
A LOT OF TIMES, IT'S REAL EASY TO RASP TOO FAR ON ONE SIDE
OR TOO FAR ON THE OTHER, AND THE HEAD WILL BE SETTING OFF
FROM THE AXIS OF THE HANDLE.
WHEN THE AX HEAD IS FINALLY SAT DOWN ALL THE WAY
TO WHERE YOU WANT IT, AND IT'S SEATED SQUARE ON THE HANDLE
YOU'VE GOT THIS HOLE UP ON TOP
AND WE'VE THROWN AWAY OUR PLASTIC WEDGE
AND WHAT WE USUALLY USE ARE WOODEN WEDGES.
AND WE DRIVE THAT WOODEN WEDGE AS FAR DOWN
INTO THE HANDLE AS IT GOES, AND WE'LL SAW OFF THE TOP OF THE
WEDGE WHERE IT'S STICKING OUT.
AND ONCE THAT'S DONE, WE'LL USUALLY SEAT IT
WITH ONE OR TWO GRADY WEDGES. THESE ARE LITTLE METAL WEDGES WITH STEPS.
SOME OF THE POLE AXES OR SINGLE BITS THAT WE HAVE
WILL COME WITH A LOT HEAVIER HANDLES ON THEM,
AND THESE SINGLE BITS OFTENTIMES,
THESE ARE PRETTY NICE HANDLES THAT THEY COME WITH.
THEY COME AS BLANKS. IT'S REALLY ROUGH THROUGH HERE
AND YOU'LL SAND THESE HANDLES DOWN SO THEY FIT YOUR PERSONAL HAND.
THESE HANDLES COME VARNISHED.
AND THIS VARNISH IS NOT A REAL ADVANTAGE IN A LOT OF WAYS
BECAUSE THE HANDLE ISN'T GOING TO KEEP.
IT'LL DRY OUT WITH THE VARNISH ON IT.
IF YOU REMOVE THE VARNISH WITH SANDPAPER,
WHEN YOU END UP WITH THAT,
THEN YOU CAN COAT THE WHOLE HANDLE WITH LINSEED OIL
AND KEEP THE WOOD REALLY OILED AND SUPPLE.
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ANYTIME WE'RE DEALING WITH WORK, WITH CUTTING IMPLEMENTS,
WHETHER THEY'RE TOOLS OR KNIVES OR SAWS,
THE SHARPER THEY ARE AND THE BETTER SHAPE THEY ARE,
THE MORE EFFECTIVE THEY ARE GOING TO BE.
THIS IS A NOT ATYPICAL PULASKI
THAT WE PULLED OUT OF THE BACK OF A PICKUP.
AND IN ADDITION TO SHARPNESS,
WE'RE ALSO REALLY CONCERNED WITH THE SHAPE OF THE HEAD.
IF YOU SEE HOW THIS IS ROUNDED,
AND YOU START THINKING ABOUT CHOPPING ON ROUNDED LOGS
OR CHOPPING ON ROUNDED LIMBS,
AND THINKING OF TWO ROUND OBJECTS COMING INTO CONTACT WITH EACH OTHER,
THEY TEND TO SLIDE OFF EACH OTHER.
IF YOU LOOK AT A SQUARED HEAD
OR ONE THAT'S FLATTENED ACROSS THE CUTTING SURFACE,
IF THIS STRIKES A ROUNDED OBJECT,
THERE'S GOING TO BE A LOT LESS CHANCE OF IT GLANCING OFF
AND HITTING YOU OR ENDING UP IN THE GROUND.
THE SECOND PART ABOUT HEAD SHAPE IS, IF YOU TAKE A BOARD
AND YOU THINK ABOUT A ROUND HEAD COMING INTO CONTACT WITH THIS,
IT'S ONLY CONTACTING IN A VERY SMALL AREA OF THE CUTTING SURFACE
IT'S CONTACTING AT ONE TIME.
SO WHEN YOU ONLY HAVE SO MUCH ENERGY AND YOU'RE CHOPPING,
YOU'RE NOT GETTING A VERY EFFECTIVE USE OF YOUR ENERGY
FOR THE AMOUNT OF WORK THAT YOU'RE PUTTING INTO IT.
WHEN WE LOOK AT THIS HEAD HERE, AND WE THINK ABOUT IT COMING
INTO CONTACT WITH THE BOARD, THERE'S A LOT MORE EFFICIENCY.
SO THAT'S BASICALLY WHAT WE DO WITH HEAD SHAPE.
WHEN WE START WITH, A LOT OF TOOLS WHEN THEY COME AS BLANKS,
AND THEY'RE NOT USED AND WE START FILING THEM,
IN ORDER TO BRING THIS BACK TO A FLATTENED SHAPE,
WE'LL DO MOST OF OUR FILING
FROM THIS POINT HERE TO THIS POINT HERE,
AND WE'LL LET THE EDGES TAKE CARE OF THEMSELVES.
WHEN WE'RE FILING, WE WANT TO BE CAREFUL. HAVE YOUR GLOVES ON,
HAVE A FILE GUARD AND HANDLE THERE.
WHEN WE'RE FILING, USUALLY WE USE A SINGLE
CUT MILL *** FILE THAT'S EITHER 10 OR 12 INCHES LONG.
AND THE SINGLE CUT MEANS THAT THERE ARE SERRATIONS ON THE FILE
THAT ARE RUNNING AT AN ANGLE ON THE FILE BUT
THEY'RE ONLY RUNNING IN ONE DIRECTION. THIS FILE IS USED,
AND YOU ONLY CUT ON THE PUSH STROKE. YOU DON'T PULL.
YOU JUST PICK IT UP AND CUT ON THE PUSH STROKE AGAIN.
MOST OF THE TIME THAT WE'RE FILING PULASKIS OR DOUBLE-BITTED AXES,
WE WILL DRIVE THEM INTO LOG OR A STUMP.
I'LL DRIVE THE IMPLEMENT THAT I'M FILING AT A SLIGHT ANGLE
SO THAT THE TOP SURFACE THAT I'M FILING IS FACING SLIGHTLY TOWARDS ME
SO THAT I DON'T HAVE TO LEAN OVER THE TOOL AND FILE DIRECTLY DOWN INTO IT.
I'D RATHER BE ABLE TO STAY BACK AND FILE AT A SLIGHT ANGLE TO THE TOOL.
I'LL END UP GOING DOWN AND FILING THE CENTER OF THE TOOL FIRST,
AND THEN WHEN I HAVE TO FINISH IT UP,
I'LL FINISH UP BY FINISHING ON BOTH ENDS.
ONCE THIS SIDE IS FINISHED,
I'LL GO AROUND AND I'LL DO THE OTHER SIDE.
WHEN YOU END UP GETTING BOTH SIDES DONE
WHAT YOU'RE GOING TO HAVE, IS A SLIGHT WIRE EDGE.
YOU CAN SEE IT BY LOOKING IN THE PROPER LIGHT.
THAT WIRE EDGE CAN ALSO BE TAKEN OFF WITH AN AXE STONE
TAKE THE SMOOTH EDGE,
WE JUST GO REAL LIGHTLY IN A CIRCULAR FASHION
ON THAT WIRE EDGE UNTIL IT DISAPPEARS.
ONCE YOU HAVE THAT WIRE EDGE THERE AND YOU'VE TAKEN IT OFF,
THERE'S NO AXES OR PULASKIS THAT YOU SHOULDN'T BE ABLE TO SHAVE WITH.
THE ONE WAY THAT I CAN TELL VERY EASILY,
IS I WILL TAKE MY GLOVE OFF AND I'LL TAKE MY FINGER
AND I'LL TOUCH MY FINGERNAIL TO IT,
AND IF IT SINKS INTO THE FINGERNAIL WITH NO WEIGHT,
IT'S SHARP ENOUGH TO SHAVE.
BUT I DON'T BRING MY FINGER DOWN.
BRING IT ONLY SO THE FINGERNAIL IS EXPOSED TO THAT HEAD.
WHEN WE TURN IT OVER AND GO ON TO THE CHISEL EDGE, WE DO THE SAME THING.
BUT WHEN WE ARE FILING ON THE CHISEL EDGE
WE END UP FILING AT A MUCH STEEPER ANGLE.
AND THAT'S TO TRY TO KEEP THIS CUTTING EDGE THICKER
AND THIS IS THE PART WE USE FOR ROOTS.
ONCE WE'RE FINISHED WITH THIS, AND IT'S DONE,
WE'LL USUALLY GREASE THE AXE AND PUT IT IN A SHEATH.
DOLLY: IF YOU'RE PROUD OF THE WORK YOU'RE DOING,
YOU'RE PROUD OF THE TOOLS YOU'RE USING,
THEY'RE AN EXTENSION OF YOUR HAND,
THAT'S WHAT THE FIRST TOOLS WERE.
AND YOU TAKE GOOD CARE OF THEM,
AND YOU CARE ABOUT THE WORK YOU DO.
IT HAS TO BE FUN,
AND WE NAME OUR TOOLS,
WE NAME THE ROCKS, WE NAME THE LOGS.
WE NAME THEM THINGS YOU DON'T WANT TO HEAR.
BUT THAT MAKES IT FUN, TOO.
AND WHEN PEOPLE ARE HAVING FUN,
THEY ARE MORE APT TO TAKE PRIDE.
IT'S JUST THE GOOD FEELING ABOUT SELF, WORK, TOOLS. IT ALL REALLY DOES GO TOGETHER.
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