Tip:
Highlight text to annotate it
X
Hello again Youtubers, it's Todd from the skates.co.uk scooter team here again to show you some maintenance and parts you can get for your scooter from our wonderful website.
Tonight I'm going to talk to you about forks. These are a stock pair of JD Bug forks that feature on the JD Bug scooter we've been working on so far.
As you can see, they're a pretty standard looking pair of forks, they've even got a little hole on there so you can sling your scooter over your back.
But I don't have a strap attached to my scooter when I'm riding it down the skatepark. These are the forks from my personal Madd Gear.
As you can see, they're a little bit chunkier than these JD Bug forks, with a bug gusset over the top here, generally a lot more material. They're a lot heavier, but also a lot stronger.
These will be in stock soon on the website, but today I'm going to show you how all the mechanism around the headset and down near the forks works, so you can change your forks if you want.
Obviously there's a lot of other aftermarket forks out there, so take your pick. Hopefully we'll be having some more coming to our website soon - we'll let you know.
So how everything works down here, going through all the parts, first of all here we've got our bars
then our clamp, then our headset, these are headset nuts. In a threaded headset, so we've got the two headset cups either side of the headtube, then the forks and our wheel.
So, to take this apart, I've preloosened everything so there's not too much fiddling about on the video. So, we undo our bolts on our clamp, just slide off our bars.
I'll just put them to one side, I won't need them for this. Then we undo our headset nut, these are just coming off but you might need to give them a turn with an adjustable spanner
wrench, or if you have a set of headset spanners even better. Quite often they don't have to be super tight. So take off your first one.
Then, you might need to hold the wheel to do it, undo the top bit of headset that comes off all in one.
Hold the bottom so the whole thing doesn't fall off.
Then that can come off, leave that to one side. Now the forks are completely loose and can drop out the bottom which is why I said to hold onto them before.
Slide them out, and there we have our forks. Now on top you'll notice you've got another race of bearings. Be careful to take note of which way they came out.
You'll need to put them in the same way that they came out, so put them somewhere safe. You'll notice they have a plastic ring around the inside as well, so keep that all together.
So you don't lose that, as it's a pretty important piece. Make sure you don't lose any of the balls out of there either, as your headset won't run smoothly at all.
You've got another one of those, another race of bearings at the top, they came out like that, we'll plonk them down. At this point, you probably want to clean out your headset.
If you're going to change your forks it's always a good chance to clean out your headset. Just make sure you clean all the grease out from inside, and replace it with some decent quality bike grease.
So, we're going to replace them with our new set of JD Bug forks, so if you've damaged your forks at all or anything like that, these are available from our website.
So, we want to put them back in exactly the same way as the other ones came out. So, we take our bottom race of bearings, slot them over the top just like the other ones came out.
Then, they go up through the inside, drop our top bearing race over - you could put that in before if you wanted to. Just make sure you don't damage them with the forks on the way up.
Then take the top part of our threaded headset and thread that down onto the top of the forks. All the way, takes a bit of spinning.
And then, once that gets down towards tightening up, this just wants to be finger tight. You don't want any rattle, none of that, so tighten it up a bit more.
So, you want it to spin nice and freely, but with no rattle or movement in the fork. So there we go, that's spinning OK, but there's no movement there.
Then just tighten the top nut down over the top, takes a bit of time....
There we go, until it's down to there. Now you want to tighten the top locknut without moving the bottom but. So the bottom nut needs to be held, either by a strong hand or a spanner
Then you tighten the top nut on top of it. You don't want it to jam up, you still want it to spin freely. You want it nice and tight but without compromising how that moves.
The bars go back on top, line them all up with your wheels, tighten up your bolts, and you're good to go again.
So if you need any of these parts or you need any advice just come and visit us at skates.co.uk. See you next time.