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[ INDISTINCT WHISPERING ]
Benelli: IS IT THAT I LOVE, OF ALL PEOPLE, VENICE --
LOVE VERY ECCENTRIC -- VERY.
Humphries: SHE'S AN OLD TOWN.
SHE'S BEEN AROUND A LONG TIME.
PEOPLE -- THEY COME, THEY GO, BUT WE'LL STILL BE THERE.
De Mori: THE TRUTH IS, WE FEEL OURSELVES
TO BE A BIT SUPERIOR TO EVERYBODY ELSE.
Vianello: BUT NOW THE TIME IS CHANGING.
YOU'RE FRIGHTENED OF THE VOID.
I LEARN A LOT FROM THE STREET.
De Mori: VENICE IS NOT GONNA LET YOU FORGET
THAT YOU'RE IN VENICE.
I'M ANTHONY BOURDAIN.
♪ THAT'S RIGHT ♪
I WRITE.
I TRAVEL.
I EAT.
AND I'M HUNGRY FOR MORE.
♪ OOH ♪
♪ YOU GOT TO ♪
♪ GET LOST ♪
-- Captions by VITAC -- www.vitac.com
CAPTIONS PAID FOR BY THE TRAVEL CHANNEL, L.L.C.
[ BELL TOLLING ]
[ INDISTINCT WHISPERING ]
SHE'S OLD, VERY OLD,
AND DECAYING IN THE NOBLEST OF WAYS --
LITERALLY SINKING INTO THE WATER
THAT HAS PROTECTED AND NOURISHED HER FOR CENTURIES,
THE ONETIME BASE OF HER POWER.
TO MY MIND, VENICE IS THE MOST EXTRAORDINARILY BEAUTIFUL CITY
IN THE WESTERN WORLD,
HER PALAZZOS, HER MONUMENTS,
PUBLIC SPACES, AND CATHEDRALS
UNRIVALED EXPRESSIONS OF UNFETTERED AMBITION
AND NEAR-LIMITLESS WEALTH.
AS THE VENETIANS RULED THE KNOWN WORLD,
THEY BUILT A CITY-STATE THAT LET PEOPLE KNOW IT.
NOW THEY'RE SPECTATORS IN THEIR OWN CITY,
ABSENTEE LANDLORDS WITNESS TO MILLIONS
OF TOURISTS AND CRUISE-SHIP PASSENGERS A YEAR --
COME TO VENICE, SEE THE SQUARE,
FEED THE PIGEONS, TAKE THE PICTURE...
[ CAMERA SHUTTER CLICKS ]
...GONDOLA RIDE, BUY A CARNIVAL MASK --
EVERY FOOTSTEP PUSHING A WHOLE GORGEOUS CARNIVAL
DOWN A LITTLE BIT MORE INTO THE MURK.
[ INDISTINCT WHISPERING ]
BEING POPULAR HAS OTHER DISADVANTAGES.
VENICE HAS A REPUTATION FOR CRAP FOOD AT HIGH PRICES,
AND THERE'S PLENTY OF THAT, FOR SURE.
BUT LOOK A LITTLE DEEPER.
RIGHT UNDER THE SURFACE, A FEW STEPS BACK
OR OFF TO THE SIDE FROM THE THUNDERING HERD
ARE VENETIANS -- THE FEW, THE PROUD.
AND THEY'VE GOT TO EAT SOMEWHERE, AS THEY ALWAYS HAVE.
AND FOR A LONG TIME,
THEY'VE BEEN KEEPING THE GOOD STUFF FOR THEMSELVES.
OVER 1,500 YEARS OLD,
VENICE WAS A CITY-STATE BUILT ON 117 SMALL ISLANDS
IN A LAGOON OF THE ADRIATIC SEA.
IT WAS THE CENTER AND CLEARINGHOUSE
FOR EVERYTHING GOOD FROM EVERYWHERE ELSE,
BUILT BY WHAT BECAME, REALLY, THE ORIGINAL SUPERRICH.
THEIR APARTNESS AND THEIR POWERFUL NAVY KEPT THEM SAFE
FROM THE FREQUENT WARS OF THE TIME,
NOT TO MENTION A CONFUSING MAZE OF CANALS.
THEIR SPIES AND STATESMEN
WERE AMONG THE MOST DEVIOUS AND EFFECTIVE IN THE WORLD
OF TREACHEROUS AND SHIFTING ALLIANCES.
EVEN THEIR CUISINE
STEADFASTLY RESISTED INFLUENCE FROM THE OUTSIDE.
[ BELL TOLLING ]
De Mori: VENICE IS NOT GONNA LET YOU FORGET
THAT YOU'RE IN VENICE.
TODAY, 61,000 VENETIANS ARE LEFT, DOWN FROM 171,000,
WHICH BEGS THE QUESTION -- WHOSE VENICE IS IT, ANYWAY?
WITHOUT VENETIANS AND REAL VENETIAN FOOD,
WOULD IT STILL BE VENICE
OR JUST A BEAUTIFUL BUT CRUMBLING SHELL,
PICKED OVER BY THE PASSING HUNS, GOTHS, AND VANDALS?
[ WATER SPLASHING ]
I SEE VENETIAN FOOD HERE.
YOU KNOW, FOR THE VENETIAN PEOPLE,
NOW THE TIME IS CHANGING.
GIGI VIANELLO --
HE'S ONE OF THOSE 61,000 VENETIANS I'M TALKING ABOUT.
I REMEMBER -- WHEN I AM LITTLE, I COME HERE WITH MY FATHER.
WHEN HE WAS LITTLE, HE'D WATCH HIS GRANDFATHER FISH FOR DINNER
STRAIGHT OUT OF THE LAGOON, LIKE MANY OF HIS NEIGHBORS.
VENICE WAS SELF-SUSTAINING.
REMARKABLY, IT STILL PRETTY MUCH IS.
ONLY NOW, WHEN HE NEEDS SUPPLIES FOR HIS RESTAURANT,
GIGI GETS UP EARLY -- BUT NOT TOO EARLY -- AND COMES HERE.
[ SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
VERY FRESH.
VERY FRESH, YES.
THE RIALTO FISH MARKET
IS ONE OF THOSE PLACES HIDDEN ABSOLUTELY IN PLAIN SIGHT.
IT'S RIGHT THERE, AS YOU CHUG BY
IN YOUR VAPORETTO, OR WATER TAXI.
YOU ONLY HAVE TO STOP AND LOOK.
YOU READY FOR A DRINK?
YEAH, ME TOO.
AGAIN, A FEW STEPS TO THE LEFT OR RIGHT,
AND THE CROWDS ARE GONE,
DOWN THE STREET, AND THEN THAT ONE, I THINK.
[ CONVERSATION IN ITALIAN ]
THERE YOU ARE --
A WONDERLAND OF SPECIFICALLY VENETIAN TREATS.
INSIDE.
WOW, HERE. WHOO, CLOSE.
OH, YEAH.
THE SPANISH HAVE TAPAS OR PINCHOS -- THE VENETIANS...
Vianello: CICCHETTO.
...CICCHETTO, OR CICCHETTI, IF YOU'RE HAVING MORE THAN ONE,
WHICH, OF COURSE, YOU ARE.
CRAB, YEAH.
RECOMMEND IT TO EAT?
OH, YEAH. I'M TOTALLY ALL OVER THAT.
BACK HERE A SHORT, SHORT WALK FROM THE FISH MARKET,
A LOCALS-ONLY WORLD OF BACARI,
WHICH IS WHAT THEY CALL THE KIND OF BAR
THAT SERVES THESE CICCHETTI THINGS.
AND THIS BACARO -- CANTINA DO MORI,
WHICH GIGI ASSURES ME
IS A GOOD, TYPICAL, TRADITIONAL WAY TO START.
AS IN SPAIN, YOU CAN MAKE A NIGHT
OF BARHOPPING AND NIBBLING THESE SMALL BITES,
A BOUNCE FROM PLACE TO PLACE
EATING WHAT'S PARTICULARLY GOOD AT EACH, THEN MOVING ON.
BUT GIGI SAYS YOU MIGHT JUST AS SOON MAKE A MORNING OF IT.
VENETIANS ARE NONJUDGMENTAL IN THAT WAY.
THAT'S YOU. THAT HAS YOUR NAME ON IT.
I THINK IT SAYS "GIGI" RIGHT THERE.
ACTUALLY, THE MORNING IS GOOD.
A LITTLE HARD-COOKED EGG WITH ANCHOVY, SOME SPICY COPPA,
WASHED DOWN, CERTO, WITH A GLASS OR TWO OF SOAVE.
HOW DO YOU WORK AFTER THIS?
AFTER THIS, IT'S IMPOSSIBLE TO WORK.
YEAH, YEAH, IMPOSSIBLE TO WORK. YEAH.
NEXT, PRONTO PESCE --
FAST FISH, A PLACE WITH A MORE MODERN TAKE.
THAT'S A MEATBALL OF SWORDFISH WITH AN ARTICHOKE, HUH?
OH, MAN, THAT'S GOOD.
OOH, NICE.
SI.
GRATINATE.
SARDINES GRATINé. THAT IS UNBELIEVABLY GOOD.
THIS IS TRULY ONE OF THE GREAT THINGS EVER.
THESE ARE MORE MODERN VERSIONS OF THIS TRADITION, YES?
I MEAN...
SOMETHING MORE TRADITIONAL LIKE THE CODFISH --
BACCALà MANTECATO.
HEY, BACCALà MANTECATO.
HEY, GIVE A TASTE OF BACCALà MANTECATO.
WHAT DOES MANTECATO MEAN?
OH, IT'S FANTASTIC.
THIS IS AN OLD TRADITION --
YES.
BUT ONLY IN VENICE, IN THIS AREA, OR ALL OVER?
YES, ONLY IN VENICE.
THESE DRINKS YOU HAVE -- [ SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
THESE MANY DRINKS ARE CALLED OMBRA,
WHICH I'M RELIABLY ASSURED MEANS "SHADE" IN ITALIAN.
THAT COMES FROM THE DAYS WHEN VENETIANS WOULD FLOCK
TO STANDS IN THE SHADE FOR AN AFTERNOON DRINK.
MM-HMM.
WITHOUT THE CICCHETTO, IT'S A PROBLEM.
YEAH. THAT'S HOW I LIVE.
HERE, THERE IS NO CAR.
YOU HAVE TO WALK.
YEAH.
IT'S NOT GOOD.
AFTER A CONSIDERABLE NUMBER OF MORNING OMBRA,
WE DECIDE TO AVOID CANALS ALTOGETHER
AND MAKE OUR SLIGHTLY WOBBLY WAY
TO A BACARO WITH INFLUENCES
FROM ITALY'S NEIGHBOR TO THE NORTH.
Bourdain: AND WINE.
ALWAYS.
OSTERIA AL DIAVO'LO E L'ACQUASANTA --
IT'S GIGI'S PERSONAL FAVORITE.
AND THANKS TO THE SAUSAGE-EATING COUNTRY
WHO BROUGHT US SUCH CONTRIBUTIONS TO MODERN CULTURE
AS KRAFTWERK AND "99 LUFTBALLONS,"
WE ALSO HAVE THIS STUFF.
COOL.
TONY. [ SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
DELICIOUS BOILED CALF'S HEAD AND TRIPE
AND MUSETTO, WHICH MEANS "LITTLE ANIMAL FACE" --
AND WHO DOESN'T LIKE THAT? --
ACCOMPANIED BY GOOD, GERMAN-STYLE MUSTARD.
THIS IS GOOD. THIS IS REALLY GOOD.
[ INDISTINCT CONVERSATIONS ]
WHEN I AM LITTLE, I COME HERE WITH MY FATHER.
I REMEMBER.
YEAH.
HOW MANY YEARS AGO?
30 YEARS AGO.
AROUND THE YEARS, THERE IS MANY, MANY PLACE,
BUT NOW THE TIME IS CHANGING.
THERE IS NOT TOO MUCH.
COMING UP -- PHILIP OF HABSBURG,
MATISSE, HEMINGWAY, AND OTHER FAMOUS GUYS
DINING ON RISOTTO SO UTTERLY PERFECT,
IT REMAINS UNCHANGED AFTER FIVE GENERATIONS.
WHAT IF A BUNCH OF REALLY HOT GIRLS START SHOWING UP,
AND THEY ALL WANT COSMOS?
HE SAYS HE THINKS HE CAN MAKE THEM STAY,
EVEN IF HE KEEPS OFFERING THE SAME THING.
[ INDISTINCT WHISPERING ]
[ GULLS CALLING ]
[ BELL TOLLING ]
Man: "TO ROMANO, A PATRON OF THE ARTS --
"THEY ARE RARE IN THESE DAYS --
"FROM HIS FRIEND ERNEST HEMINGWAY
BURANO 11th OF NOVEMBER 1945."
24 BOUND VOLUMES IN THE LIFE OF A RESTAURANT.
De Mori: VOLUMES OF GUEST BOOKS FROM WHEN THEY FIRST OPENED,
SIGNED MATISSE AND MIRó.
Man #2: FROM MARIA CALLAS, ENRICO FERMI.
ARTISTS, STATESMEN, AUTHORS, MUSICIANS.
SO, HERE'S SOME MUSIC.
SOMEBODY WROTE A LITTLE DITTY.
SCRIBBLED DRAWINGS, EXPRESSIONS OF GRATITUDE,
POETRY, AND PROSE.
PHILIP OF HABSBURG CAME AND HAD THE RICE
AND LOVED THE RICE AND SAID, "I'LL HAVE MORE, PLEASE."
AND HE SAID, "I'M NOT GONNA GIVE YOU ANY MORE.
I WANT YOU TO COME BACK."
WHAT IS IT ABOUT THIS PLACE
ON THE FAIRLY REMOTE, ISOLATED OUTER ISLAND OF BURANO?
TRADITIONALLY AN ISLAND OF FISHERMEN,
ROW AFTER ROW OF BRIGHT, PASTEL-COLORED HOUSES,
SO THE FISHERMEN COULD SEE THEM
BACK IN THE DAY WHEN RETURNING FROM SEA.
THE WOMEN OF THE ISLAND WERE ONCE MASTER LACE MAKERS --
TODAY, NOT SO MUCH.
BUT WHAT IS LEFT IS WELL WORTH
A 45-MINUTE BOAT RIDE TO THIS TINY ISLAND,
OR AT LEAST THAT'S WHAT LORI DE MORI SAYS.
SHE'S AN AMERICAN COOKBOOK AUTHOR AND FOOD WRITER
WHO'S BEEN LIVING IN ITALY FOR DECADES.
THERE ARE TWO PRINCIPAL GROUPS WHO COME TO BURANO --
THOSE SHOPPING FOR THE FAMOUS LACE
AND PEOPLE LIKE ME AND LORI,
WHO ARE LOOKING FOR ONE THING --
A PERFECTED DISH THAT CAN BE FOUND AT THIS PLACE, DA ROMANO.
LOCAL PAINTERS, IT STARTED OUT WITH,
ELECTED THIS PLACE, YOU KNOW -- THIS WAS THEIR HANGOUT.
AH, RIGHT.
THIS WAS THE PLACE THEY CAME TO, AND YOU KNOW THE WAY IT GOES.
THEN VISITING ARTISTS FIND OUT
THAT THAT'S WHERE ALL THE ARTISTS GO,
AND THEN, SUDDENLY, THAT'S WHERE EVERYBODY'S GOING.
FROM THE 1800s,
FIVE GENERATIONS OF A SINGLE FAMILY HAVE RUN THIS PLACE,
HANDING DOWN RECIPES FROM PARENTS TO CHILDREN,
NEVER DEVIATING FROM SIMPLE, GOOD THINGS.
THE WALLS ARE COVERED WITH THE WORK OF LONG-DEAD ADMIRERS,
AND THEIR SIGNATURES FILL THE GUEST BOOK.
BUT LIFE AND COOKING GO ON.
HEMINGWAY AND MATISSE AND MIRó ARE GONE,
BUT KEITH RICHARDS COMES STRAIGHT HERE WHEN IN VENICE.
KEITH RICHARDS? HE'S RIGHT ABOUT EVERYTHING.
FOURTH-GENERATION PROPRIETOR LUIGI SANTO.
[ SANTO SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
TONY, YOU'LL LIKE THIS.
HE SAYS THIS IS HEROIC COOKING.
A LOT OF PEOPLE WHO DON'T KNOW MUCH
ABOUT TRAVELING IN A CERTAIN WAY --
THEY WANT TO HAVE SPAGHETTI AND MEATBALLS.
AND, ACTUALLY, HE SAYS TO STAY STEADFAST
AND SAY, "YOU KNOW WHAT? THIS IS GOOD ENOUGH.
"IT'S NOT ONLY GOOD ENOUGH, IT'S PERFECT.
AND WE'RE NOT CHANGING. IT'S HEROIC."
DOES HE AGREE?
DOES HE FEEL A COMPULSION TO INNOVATE?
NO.
[ SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
THE FIFTH GENERATION -- HIS SON LUCA.
De Mori: HE'S FOR SIMPLICITY, AND HE THINKS
THAT THIS TRADITION IS THE RIGHT ROAD.
WHAT IF A BUNCH OF REALLY HOT GIRLS
START SHOWING UP HERE EVERY NIGHT --
IT'S LIKE "SEX AND THE CITY," BUT YOUNGER AND HOTTER --
AND THEY ALL WANT COSMOS?
[ SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
HE SAYS HE THINKS HE CAN MAKE THEM STAY,
EVEN IF HE KEEPS OFFERING THE SAME THING
THEY'VE BEEN OFFERING FOR THE LAST HUNDRED YEARS.
THAT WOULD INCLUDE STUFF
LIKE THIS ASSORTMENT FROM THE LAGOON --
CUTTLEFISH ROE, SEA SNAILS,
BABY OCTOPUS, AND MANTIS SHRIMP,
ALL COOKED IN THE ONLY RESTAURANT KITCHEN IN VENICE
ALLOWED TO STILL USE A WOOD FIRE.
IT'S A LOT OF WORK.
BRING IN THE WOOD.
IT'S ALSO BLOODY HOT IN THERE.
IT'S SUMMERTIME, AND THEY'VE STILL GOT THIS THING RAGING.
AND A LOT OF PEOPLE SAY TO THEM, LIKE,
"WHY ON EARTH WOULD YOU DO IT?"
TASTES GOOD.
YEAH.
AND THIS IS SOMETHING
THAT YOU'RE GONNA PROBABLY SEE...
THE POLENTA -- GRILLED POLENTA?
GRILLED POLENTA, WHITE.
POLENTA IS A FUNDAMENTAL STAPLE OF VENETIAN CUISINE --
USUALLY, BUT NOT ALWAYS WHITE CORNMEAL,
USUALLY, BUT NOT ALWAYS GRILLED.
AND THEN THE SARDINE IS COOKED IN VINEGAR.
AND SO YOU HAVE THIS SORT OF SWEETNESS FROM THE ONION...
WHICH PRESERVES IT.
THAT'S DELICIOUS -- ONE OF MY FAVORITE FISH, BY THE WAY.
YES.
A LOT OF FLAVOR FOR YOUR MONEY, NO?
BUT, REALLY, IF THERE'S ONE DISH
WORTH CROSSING THE LAGOON FOR, IF NOT HALF THE WORLD,
IT'S THIS.
IT'S A DISH THAT, ALL ALONE,
MAKES VENICE, AND BURANO IN PARTICULAR,
A PLACE YOU JUST HAVE TO VISIT --
GO RISOTTO.
FISH RISOTTO NEEDS TO BE
A BIT CODDLED AND CUDDLED AND CARESSED...
IN ORDER TO BEHAVE.
IN THE BRILLIANT FILM "BIG NIGHT,"
THERE'S A PAINFUL MOMENT WHERE AN IGNORANT CUSTOMER LOOKS
AT AN AUTHENTIC, PERFECTLY PREPARED ORDER
OF SEAFOOD RISOTTO
AND COMPLAINS, "IT'S RICE."
AND, YES, GO RISOTTO IS RICE, BUT WHAT RICE.
SO, THIS IS WHAT WE'RE HAVING, WHICH THEY'RE REALLY FAMOUS FOR.
[ SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
OH, SO THIS IS A REAL CLASSIC FISHERMAN'S RECIPE...
OF THE EARLY 1900s, MADE WITH A FISH CALLED GO.
GO IS NOT A PRIZED FISH.
IT'S ONE OF THOSE FISH THAT BURROW DOWN --
UGLY, LITTLE, FAT FISH.
A LOT OF BONES, SO IT'S NOT A FISH
YOU'D WANT TO EAT AS A FISH,
BUT IT'S A FISH YOU'D WANT TO USE FOR FLAVOR.
SO, THEY MAKE THIS BROTH OUT OF IT.
THEY HAVE TO SIMMER IT REALLY, REALLY GENTLY,
BECAUSE IF THEY BREAK IT UP,
IT LETS OUT THIS BLACK, BITTER --
AND IT REALLY ISN'T NICE.
THE WAY THEY HANDLE THE BROTH --
IT'S LIKE, "DON'T DISTURB THE LITTLE FISH."
SIMMER THE BROTH. IN GOES THE RICE.
MIX IT, AND THAT'S ALL THAT HAPPENS
IS THEY KEEP ADDING THE BROTH.
AN AMAZING CONFLUENCE OF PHYSICAL FORCES OF THE UNIVERSE
COME TOGETHER INTO A SUBSTANCE
THAT CAN ONLY BE DESCRIBED AS OTHERWORLDLY.
AND THAT JUST GOES SLOWLY, SLOWLY, SLOWLY.
THE FATS AND ESSENCES OF THE FISH,
THE TEXTURAL MAGIC OF ARBORIO RICE,
A MIRACLE OF GRADUAL, GRADUAL ABSORPTION.
AND THEN... [ SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
THEY'RE TRYING TO MAKE IT CREAMY WITHOUT ADDING CREAM.
A KIND OF ALCHEMY --
MOVEMENT ALTERING TEXTURE, TEXTURE ENHANCING FLAVOR.
SORT OF HITS THE PAN AND FLIPS THE RICE SO IT'S CREAMY.
THERE IS RISOTTO, AND THEN THERE IS GREAT RISOTTO,
AND THEN, ONCE IN A VERY, VERY LONG TIME,
THERE IS TRULY GREAT RISOTTO.
IT'S JUST THAT GO. IT'S JUST THE BROTH.
IT BETTER REALLY BE GOOD, OR THERE'S NOTHING ELSE.
THIS IS WHAT THEY MEAN WHEN THEY SAY TRULY GREAT,
AND I GUESS TWO CENTURIES OF ARTISTS RECOGNIZED THAT, TOO.
RIGHT.
AND THEN YOU TASTE IT.
IT'S LIKE THE DISTILLED ESSENCE OF THE ADRIATIC.
RIGHT.
OH, MAN, THAT'S BEAUTIFUL.
THIS IS ABSOLUTELY FANTASTIC, BY THE WAY.
THE FLAVOR IS SUPERB.
AND LOOK AT HOW THESE ARE LIKE LITTLE PEARLS.
THEY'RE DEFINITELY ALL KEEPING THEIR OWN PERSONALITY.
I ABSOLUTELY AGREE.
MMM.
[ SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
COMING UP...
ALWAYS SLOWLY, SLOWLY, SLOWLY.
...THERE'S MORE TO VENICE THAN *** GONDOLAS
UP AND DOWN THE CANALS, LIKE MOVING HUGE TANKERS AROUND.
Bourdain: THAT LINE BREAKS, IT'LL WHIP YOUR HEAD CLEAN OFF...
AND AS ALWAYS, I FIND MYSELF PITCHING IN.
...WHICH MEANS THAT, IF WE STAY HERE,
WE'LL BE CRUSHED LIKE A PROVERBIAL PANCAKE.
De Mori: THE TRUTH IS, WE FEEL OURSELVES
TO BE A BIT SUPERIOR TO EVERYBODY ELSE,
'CAUSE WE HAVE AN ANCIENT CULTURE,
AND MOST PEOPLE WHO COME HERE -- THEY DON'T HAVE THAT.
WHAT IS A VENETIAN?
WHAT ARE VENETIANS LIKE?
AND WHAT DO THEY DO?
TO THE CASUAL VISITOR,
IT'S THE GUY WHO PILOTS THE GONDOLA AROUND TOWN
OR SOME WEALTHY MUMMY
FROM AN OLD AND IMPECCABLY DESPOTIC FAMILY
STILL LIVING IN A CORNER OF ONE OF THE GRAND PALAZZOS.
BUT THERE ARE OTHER VENETIANS AND, IN FACT, ANOTHER VENICE.
[ AIR HORNS BLOWING ]
MORNING.
THIS IS LORI'S FRIEND STEFANO BENEDETELLI,
BORN AND BRED VENETIAN.
AND THIS IS VENICE, TOO.
STEFANO IS A MOORING MAN,
AND HE MAKES HIS MONEY, AS DOES MUCH OF VENICE,
FROM THE VITALLY IMPORTANT COMMERCIAL INDUSTRIAL COMPLEX
OF PORTO MARGHERA,
A PLACE THEY DON'T SHOW YOU IN THE TOURISM FILMS
BUT AS VITAL TO VENICE'S EVERYDAY LIFE AND SURVIVAL
AS THE GRAND CANAL.
[ SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
WE WOULDN'T LIVE JUST SELLING POSTCARDS.
CHEMICALS HERE, ENERGY -- OIL AND COAL --
OVER HERE, AND CARGO THATAWAY?
YEAH.
[ SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
85% OF THE ECONOMY OF VENICE
PASSES THROUGH THIS PORT.
LOOKS LIKE NEW JERSEY, WHICH IS WHERE I GREW UP,
AND SO FAR, IT SMELLS A LOT BETTER.
[ AIR HORN BLOWS ]
HEY!
STEFANO'S JOB --
TO GET BIG FREAKING SHIPS, LIKE THIS ONE,
TIED UP AND SAFELY DOCKED.
ALWAYS SLOWLY, SLOWLY, SLOWLY.
Bourdain: HOW MANY SHIPS THIS SIZE COME IN A DAY?
ABOUT 55, 40.
[ AIR HORN BLOWING ]
FIRST, THE TUGS DO THEIR JOB.
THE TUG SORT OF RECEIVES THE BOAT FROM THE SEA TO COME IN.
RIGHT, AND THEY TURN -- I SAW IT TURN THEM AROUND.
HELPS IT TURN IT AROUND --
I MEAN, IT'S LIKE BEING A BIG BULL IN A SMALL CHINA SHOP.
YEAH.
AND IT'S KIND OF LIKE LASSOING THE WORLD'S LARGEST BULL,
ONLY LOTS BIGGER
AND FILLED WITH HIGHLY FLAMMABLE TOXIC CHEMICALS
AND SLOWER-MOVING AND, LIKE, FLOATING.
OKAY, BAD METAPHOR.
THE SHIP'S MATES DROP THEIR MOORING LINES
TO STEFANO AND HIS CREW, WHO DART AROUND,
THREADING THE NEEDLE, AS IT WERE, AGAIN AND AGAIN.
GULLIVER AND THE LILLIPUTIANS COME TO MIND.
READY TO HITCH UP THE MULE TRAIN AND PULL THEM IN, RIGHT --
WHICH MEANS THAT, IF WE STAY HERE,
YEAH, YOU WOULD.
THAT LINE BREAKS, IT'LL WHIP YOUR HEAD CLEAN OFF.
[ ROPE SNAPS ]
BE A LITTLE PINK MIST
AND A NUBBIN LEFT WHERE YOUR HEAD USED TO BE.
I HATE WHEN THAT HAPPENS.
THEY'RE REALLY GOOD.
I MEAN, YOU KNOW, THERE'S SOME REAL CHOREOGRAPHY GOING ON HERE.
IT'S SORT OF LIKE BALLET OR A JAPANESE BONDAGE FILM --
NOT THAT I'VE SEEN ANY OF THOSE.
I HOOKED THIS UP MYSELF, BY THE WAY.
JUST DOING MY BIT TO HELP THE ECONOMY.
COME ON, LITTLE FELLA. COME ON INTO PORT.
BRING HER ON IN, BOYS.
GOOD JOB. I THINK IT'S MILLER TIME.
[ BENEDETELLI SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
SO, LIKE GOOD ITALIANS, PASTA IS FUNDAMENTAL.
Bourdain: PASTA'S FUNDAMENTAL.
IS LUNCH THE BIG MEAL OF THE DAY OR IS DINNER?
LUNCH. LUNCH.
LUNCHTIME -- IN THIS CASE,
WHEN OUR PLANNED SCENE FALLS THROUGH,
A LAST-MINUTE CHOICE AT ANY OLD PLACE.
STEFANO PICKS TRATTORIA BORGI IN HISTORIC VENICE,
AND NATURALLY, IT TURNS OUT TO BE PERFECT.
NOW, ORDINARILY, MOST OF THE TIME, IN THE CAFETERIA?
OFTEN, THEY GO ONBOARD OF THE BOAT.
HOW ARE THE COOKS?
REALLY?
[ SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
BASICALLY, THOSE GUYS ARE ON THE BOAT FOR MONTHS,
AND IF THE FOOD IS NO GOOD, THE COOK'S THROWN OVERBOARD.
CIAO.
WE'RE JOINED BY SOME OF STEFANO'S COLLEAGUES,
JUST AS THE FOOD ARRIVES...
OOH. BELLO.
...WHICH WORKS OUT JUST FINE FOR EVERYBODY,
'CAUSE THERE'S LOTS OF IT.
SARDINES AND ONIONS -- TYPICAL, UBIQUITOUS.
GOT TO HAVE THE BACCALà MANTECATO
AND SOME SEAFOOD, MAYBE SOME GRILLED VEGETABLES.
WHAT IS THE COMMON PERSONALITY TYPE?
IS THERE A COMMON PERSONALITY TYPE?
[ SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
SLIGHTLY DISSIDENT, NOT QUICK TO HAND OUT THE FRIENDSHIP.
IF YOU EARN IT, IT'S FOR LIFE AND A SURE THING.
EVERYBODY SEEMS TO KNOW EACH OTHER HERE.
YOU KNOW EVERYBODY AT LEAST BY SIGHT,
AND IF NOT, BY -- YOU KNOW, YOU ACTUALLY REALLY KNOW THEM.
NEXT UP -- PASTA, BECAUSE WITHOUT PASTA,
THE MEAL IS A SIN AGAINST GOD
AND EVERYTHING THAT IS GOOD AND DECENT IN THE WORLD --
IN THIS CASE, SOME CLAMS AND MUSSELS FROM THE LAGOON
AND NOT TOO MUCH GARLIC AND SOME GOOD OLIVE OIL,
SPECTACULAR IN ITS SIMPLICITY, IN ITS BEING UNSPECTACULAR.
WHO ARE THE WORST [BLEEP] TOURISTS THERE ARE?
[ SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
IT'S NOT A NATIONALITY. IT'S A SORT OF TOURIST.
IT'S THE DAY-TRIPPER.
AH, SO THEY COME IN ON THE CRUISE SHIP?
OR JUST ON THE TRAIN.
IT'S KIND OF THIS DIFFICULTY,
'CAUSE RUSHING DOES NOT EXIST IN THE VENETIAN CULTURE.
AND THE TOURISTS NEED TO RUSH.
AND SO IT'S ONE THING THAT CREATES THIS INSTANT DIVIDE.
GO RUSH. RUN, IF YOU WANT.
YOU KNOW, THERE IS NO RUSHING.
[ SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
THE TRUTH IS, WE FEEL OURSELVES
TO BE A BIT SUPERIOR TO EVERYBODY ELSE...
AN ANCIENT CULTURE,
AND MOST PEOPLE WHO COME HERE -- THEY DON'T HAVE THAT.
I THINK THAT'S A COMPLETELY REASONABLE ATTITUDE.
[ SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
I MEAN, YOU KNOW, LOOK AROUND.
SO THE WORLD HAS TO LEARN TO ADJUST TO VENETIAN TIME.
YES.
PASTA AND TIME --
ORDINARY THINGS, BIRTHRIGHTS --
ANOTHER DAY IN VENICE.
UP NEXT...
WHAT'S KEPT AN ECCENTRIC BOHEMIAN ARTIST FROM ENGLAND
FROM EVER LEAVING VENICE?
Humphries: I FOUND MYSELF IN A DIFFERENT DIMENSION AND COULDN'T GET OUT.
AS ONE MIGHT GUESS, VENICE ISN'T SUCH A BAD PLACE
TO BE AN ARTIST -- STARVING OR OTHERWISE.
ENLIGHTENED VIEW OF EXTENDING CREDIT?
A LOT OF THESE PAINTINGS ARE EXTENDED CREDIT.
[ BELL TOLLING, CLOCK TICKING ]
[ BELL CHIMING ]
TIME -- VENICE'S SEEMING TIMELESSNESS,
THE ASSUMPTION THAT, WELL, SHE'S BEEN HERE,
SHE SURELY ALWAYS WILL BE -- IS A CENTRAL IRONY.
TOURISTS AND SHORT-TIME VISITORS
CAN NEVER FULLY GRAB VENICE.
STAYING IS DIFFICULT AND INCREASINGLY PRICEY.
COSTS RISE. THE NUMBER OF NATIVES SHRINKS.
THE BUILDINGS THEMSELVES SLOWLY CRUMBLE --
A LIVING MUSEUM OF MILLENNIUM-OLD MASTERWORKS
INEXORABLY DYING.
ARTISTS AND POETS FROM ELSEWHERE
HAVE ALWAYS BEEN TRANSFIXED BY HER NOBLE ROT.
Humphries: YOU MUST REMEMBER, LOOKING OUT OF THE WINDOW
IS PROBABLY THE BIGGEST WASTE OF TIME IN LIFE,
BUT WHAT ELSE CAN ONE DO
IF ONE HAS TO DO NOTHING WITH IT WHATSOEVER?
FOLLOWING IN THE FOOTSTEPS
OF FELLOW ENGLISHMEN BESOTTED WITH VENICE
LIKE LORD BYRON,
ARTIST GEOFFREY HUMPHRIES CAME TO VENICE 40 YEARS AGO --
COMING, FOR INSTANCE, FOR WHAT ONE SEES FROM HIS WINDOW.
I FOUND MYSELF IN A DIFFERENT DIMENSION
AND COULDN'T GET OUT OF IT.
THERE WAS AN ARTISTIC COMMUNITY HERE AND A FEELING.
MAYBE I WAS GOING BACK IN TIME,
BUT I'VE WANTED TO ALWAYS GO BACK IN TIME.
DON'T WE ALL?
ALL THAT, AND THE NATURAL LIGHT MAKES PAINTING,
LIKE THE CITY ITSELF, A SLOWLY PASSING THING.
GEOFFREY LIVES ON THE GIUDECCA,
THE LARGE ISLAND SADDLING VENICE PROPER.
NOBODY WOULD TOUCH THE GIUDECCA.
IT WAS... [ SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
ONCE A KIND OF LOW-RENT REFUGE
FOR THE BROKE AND BOHEMIAN CLASSES,
NOW, AS WITH SO MANY OTHER FORMERLY INDUSTRIAL DISTRICTS,
ALL THE TICS -- POSH HOTELS,
THE SCOURGE OF HIPNESS SPREADING LIKE CHLAMYDIA.
GEOFFREY, UNSURPRISINGLY,
IS NOT TOO HAPPY ABOUT THE CHANGE.
GEOFFREY PAINTS PORTRAITS,
OFTEN CASTING CONTEMPORARY VENETIANS
AS FIGURES FROM THE PAST.
TODAY, HE ARRESTS TIME
BY CAPTURING HIS WIFE AND DAUGHTER,
EVEN WHILE THE LATE-AFTERNOON DAYLIGHT --
HIS FAVORITE SOURCE OF ILLUMINATION --
FADES AND SLOWLY DIES.
WITH A FEW STROKES, HE FREEZES THIS MOMENT IN TIME --
WOMAN WITH CHILD, LATE AFTERNOON, VENICE --
NEVER TO HAPPEN PRECISELY LIKE THIS AGAIN.
THERE IT IS. THERE IT WAS.
WELL, WE CAME HERE ONE LUNCHTIME AND ATE IN THE GARDEN.
IT WAS TOTALLY EMPTY. WOODEN CHAIRS AND BENCHES.
GEOFFREY LEADS ME BACK IN TIME
TO A FAVORITE RESTAURANT OF HIS YOUNGER, HUNGRIER DAYS.
THE ATMOSPHERE WAS SO RICKETY -- IT WAS WONDERFUL.
THE MEAL COST A THOUSAND LIRA.
GEOFFREY'S VENICE CAN NEVER BE THE SAME
AS THE VENICE OF THOSE BORN TO IT.
HE KNOWS IT.
YET HE'S PART OF A GRAND TRADITION --
A WORLD OF MISFITS FOR WHOM VENICE IS A STAGE.
AND THAT, TOO, HAS NOSTALGIA, RITES OF PASSAGE,
AND SPECIAL ENTRéE FOR CERTAIN PROFESSIONS.
YES, THAT'S IN THERE.
THERE WAS ALWAYS A TABLE HERE FOR ARTISTS --
MM-HMM.
AND ALL THESE WONDERFUL ARTISTS -- THEY USED TO COME IN AND SIT.
THIS IS A PLACE WITH A PAYMENT PLAN NOT UNIQUE TO THESE PARTS.
ENLIGHTENED VIEW OF EXTENDING CREDIT?
A LOT OF THESE PAINTINGS ARE EXTENDED CREDIT.
LOCANDA MONTIN -- AN OLD, VERY OLD-SCHOOL TRATTORIA --
SIMPLE CLASSICS MADE WELL, A PLACE ABOUT WHICH VENETIANS
AND PARTICULARLY LONGTIME EX-PATS
TEND TO BE SENTIMENTAL,
VERY LIKELY BECAUSE OF THEIR ONETIME VIEW
THAT ART WAS ACCEPTABLE AS LEGAL TENDER.
THE WORLD WAS VERY DIFFERENT.
THERE WERE NO CREDIT CARDS,
BUT THERE WAS CREDIT IN A FUNNY WAY.
MY BILL GOT SO HEAVY,
SO I PICKED UP MY PAINTINGS FROM AN EXHIBITION,
AND I TOLD HIM TO SELECT ONE FOR HIMSELF
TO PAY MY -- COVER MY BILL.
WHEN I GOT BACK, I SAID, "WHERE'S THE PICTURE?"
AND HE SAID HE'D SOLD IT. AND I SAID, "HOW MUCH FOR?"
HE SAID, "EAT. EAT. EAT." [ LAUGHS ]
THIS IS MANTIS SHRIMP.
I'M AFRAID YOU HAVE TO EAT THIS BY HAND.
BON APPé***, HUH?
OH, BOY. THEY'VE GONE OVERBOARD.
PASTA IN RED SAUCE.
VERY HAPPY WITH THIS.
[ SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
JUST -- THAT'S THE TOMATO, GARLIC, AND PASTA.
MM-HMM. MMM.
AS WE SETTLE INTO OUR MEAL,
I ASK GEOFFREY WHAT HE REMEMBERS MOST
ABOUT COMING TO VENICE AS A YOUNG ARTIST.
WHEN I CAME HERE, EVERYBODY,
EVEN THE VEGETABLE SALESMEN, WHATEVER -- THEY ALL KNOW ART.
IT'S THEIR LIFE -- MICHELANGELO, THE BIG NAMES.
BUT YOU KIND OF CAN'T HELP IT.
YOU KNOW, YOU WALK DOWN THE STREET,
AND YOU'RE TRIPPING OVER STUFF.
I LEARN A LOT FROM THE STREET.
PEOPLE LOOK AT MY WORK, AND THEY SAY, "UGH, I DON'T AGREE."
I SAID, "SIR, YOU'RE JUST FOLLOWING THE SUN,"
YOU KNOW, MEANING I KEEP MOVING THE SHADOW, WHICH IS RIGHT.
AND THEN THEY SAY, "AH."
AND THEN, "YOU'RE FRIGHTENED OF THE VOID." "AH."
WAIT, YOU JUST HEAR THIS FROM PASSERSBY, FROM VENETIANS?
REALLY?
IN A CITY WHERE ART IS A BIRTHRIGHT,
EVERYWHERE YOU LOOK
THE STREET'S A GALLERY AND EVERYBODY AN ART CRITIC,
THIS ARTIST HAS FOUND A VENICE OF HIS OWN.
UP NEXT...
Benelli: OKAY, THIS IS FORBIDDEN WINE.
METHYL ALCOHOL.
AND IF YOU GET DRUNK WITH THAT, PROBABLY YOU HAVE SOME PROBLEMS.
YEAH, LIKE GOING BLIND,
BUT WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME I LET PETTY HEALTH CONCERNS
GET IN THE WAY OF A GOOD BUZZ?
Benelli: THE VENETIANS --
THEY LASTED MORE THAN THE ROMAN EMPIRES --
A THOUSAND YEARS.
WHAT CONSTANTLY SURPRISES ABOUT VENICE IS WHAT LIES BENEATH --
THAT, ALL ALONG, SHE'S BEEN SELF-SUFFICIENT IN SEAFOOD
AND STILL PRODUCES JUST LIKE THE OLD DAYS,
THAT SOME THINGS OTHER THAN THE BUILDINGS
HAVE DECIDEDLY NOT YET DISAPPEARED.
THE SAME WONDERFULLY DYSFUNCTIONAL SYSTEM
WHICH ALLOWS HER TO CRUMBLE
ALSO KEEPS HER GLORIOUSLY UNCHANGED.
AND ONE THING THAT HASN'T CHANGED
IS THE FACT THAT THE ISLAND OF ST. ERASMO REMAINS,
TO A GREAT EXTENT, VENICE'S PRIVATE GREEN MARKET.
GOOD TO MEET YOU.
YEAH. NICE MEETING YOU.
SO, WHERE WE GOING?
WE'RE GOING TO ST. ERASMO
TO SEE THE ISLANDS AND GARDENS AND THIS FRIEND OF MINE.
WE'LL TASTE SOME FORBIDDEN WINES AND --
FORBIDDEN? OH, I LIKE IT.
ST. ERASMO -- THAT'S THE GARDEN OF VENICE.
IT'S A PROPER GARDEN.
WHICH BOAT'S YOURS?
NICE. ALL RIGHT.
'60s.
THAT WAS MY ERA.
ALSO MINE.
TAKING ME TO ST. ERASMO -- CESARE BENELLI,
CHEF, RESTAURATEUR, AND A TRUE VENETIAN.
IT'S ALWAYS BEEN SORT OF THE VEGETABLE BASKET OF VENICE?
IT'S BEEN THE GARDEN SINCE THE 15th CENTURY.
BUT, I MEAN, I'M SURPRISED EVEN NOW
THAT SO MUCH OF THE FOOD STILL IS SOURCED HERE.
YEAH.
THAT'S REALLY -- THAT'S REMARKABLE.
YOU'RE RIGHT. THAT'S IT EXACTLY.
I'M SURPRISED MYSELF.
I'M FAMOUSLY NOT EXACTLY THRILLED
BY FRUITS OR VEGETABLES,
BUT PERHAPS THAT'S BECAUSE I WASN'T BORN VENETIAN.
ST. ERASMO IS AN ISOLATED ECOSYSTEM
UNIQUE IN THE WORLD,
A METAPHYSICAL MIX OF SOIL AND SALINITY
WHICH FAMOUSLY PRODUCES
SOME OF THE BEST FRUITS AND VEGETABLES FOUND ANYWHERE.
WE TAKE A SHORT TRIP AROUND THE ISLAND
WITH CESARE'S FRIEND MASSIMO.
TREES BURSTING WITH RIPE FIGS...
MMM, MAN.
THAT'S ONE OF LIFE'S GREAT TREATS.
IT REMINDS ME OF *** POPPIES. [ LAUGHS ]
YOU KNOW, THEY DRIP LIKE THAT, TOO -- NOT THAT I'D KNOW.
...ETHEREAL GRAPES... A PERFECTION OF EGGPLANT...
Bourdain: OH, THAT'S GREAT.
THAT'S A PROFESSIONAL BASIL-SLICING JOB THERE.
...TOMATOES WHICH CONVINCE YOU
YOU'VE NEVER ACTUALLY HAD A TOMATO BEFORE --
DRIZZLE WITH A LITTLE OLIVE OIL...
IT'S NICE TO BE REMINDED OF HOW GOOD A TOMATO CAN BE.
YEAH.
...IT'S A NEAR-RELIGIOUS EXPERIENCE.
[ CHOIR VOCALIZING ]
OF COURSE, THERE'S THE HOLY TRINITY --
SOME NICE SLICED SALAMI, SOME GOOD CHEESE,
AND FRESH COUNTRY BREAD.
AND DON'T FORGET THE LOCAL BEVERAGE,
A WINE KNOWN AS FRAGOLINO.
FINALLY, THE FUN PART. [ LAUGHS ]
OKAY, THIS IS FORBIDDEN WINE.
IT'S DONE WITH --
WE CALL IT AMERICAN GRAPE -- I GUESS IT'S CONCORD, RIGHT?
DURING THE FERMENTATION,
RIGHT.
IN VERY SMALL PERCENTAGES,
BUT IT'S ABOVE THE PERCENTAGE ADMITTED.
RIGHT.
FOR YEARS, PEOPLE LOVED THIS HUMBLE LOCAL WINE
FOR ITS DELIGHTFUL TASTE OF STRAWBERRIES.
THE PROBLEM, THOUGH, IS THAT TOO MUCH,
ALLEGEDLY, MAKES ONE GO BLIND.
AND IF YOU GET DRUNK WITH THAT EVERY DAY
FOR 30 YEARS, 40 YEARS,
PROBABLY YOU HAVE SOME PROBLEMS FROM THE METHYL.
I DON'T THINK IT'S MORE HARMFUL
RIGHT.
SALUTE.
A LA VITA.
AND I LOVE ROUGH LOCAL WINES
THAT TASTE OF THE EARTH YOU DRINK THEM ON,
SO THE WHOLE POSSIBLE-BLINDNESS THING --
NOT REALLY A CONCERN.
PERFECT WITH THIS.
I THINK IT GOES VERY WELL WITH THIS.
DO YOU EVER TAKE THIS FOR GRANTED?
I HAVEN'T MET ANYONE IN ITALY
WHO TAKES THEIR FOOD FOR GRANTED.
I'M JUST AMAZED BY THAT AND ENVIOUS, FRANKLY.
RIGHT.
DESPITE AN AFTERNOON OF MUCH WINE,
CESARE AND I SURVIVED TO DINE
AT HIS WELL-KNOWN AND MUCH-LOVED RISTORANTE AL COVO
IN VENICE'S ARSENALE NEIGHBORHOOD.
BETWEEN LUNCH AND DINNER, HE SCOURED THE LAGOON,
HOPPING FROM ISLAND TO ISLAND, LOOKING FOR THESE --
THE FIRST MOECHE OF THE SEASON --
TINY, TENDER, BABY SOFT-SHELL CRABS.
NOT A HUGE FAN OF SOFT-SHELLS --
YOU KNOW, WHEN THEY'RE TINY OR RELATIVELY SMALL AND SOFT.
THOSE BIG LEATHERBACKS -- NOT FOR ME.
YOU CUT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE EYES,
BECAUSE WHEN YOU FRY THEM,
OTHERWISE, THEY EXPLODE AND THEY ABSORB THE OIL.
IT'S A POPULAR KITCHEN ACCIDENT --
THE EXPLODING-SOFT-SHELL-CRAB TRICK.
[ LAUGHS ]
THEY EXPLODE IN OIL AND SPLATTER YOUR EYES...
...OR SEND SIZZLING SOFT-SHELL-CRAB JUICE
INTO YOUR FACE -- OH, MAN.
THAT HURTS, LET ME TELL YOU.
BUT, THEN AGAIN, SOFT-SHELL-CRAB JUICE,
WHEN DEEP-FRIED, OH, BABY, IT HURTS SO GOOD.
SO, HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN OPEN HERE?
SINCE '86.
DID VENETIANS ACCEPT THIS PLACE IMMEDIATELY,
NO.
I'M SPEAKING TO MORE AND MORE CHEFS IN MY TRAVELS
WHO HAVE COME TO THIS CROSSROADS IN THEIR LIFE THAT YOU SEEM TO HAVE,
WHERE THEY SAY, "YOU KNOW, THIS IS GOOD ENOUGH."
SIMPLICITY -- THE PURE AMBITION TO TAKE GREAT INGREDIENTS
AND TRY VERY, VERY HARD TO JUST NOT SCREW THEM UP.
IT'S ILLUSTRATIVE HERE
TO COMPARE AND CONTRAST WITH THE FRENCH.
IN FRANCE, THE CHEF IS THE STAR.
HERE, IT'S ALL ABOUT THE INGREDIENTS.
REALLY GREAT. SO DELICATE.
OUR FIRST DISH IS A CARPACCIO OF WILD SEA BASS
WITH PINK PEPPERCORN, CHIVES, AND BASIL OIL.
THIS IS -- THIS IS REALLY, REALLY GOOD.
NEXT DISH -- SPIDER CRAB SERVED WITH ITS OWN ROE.
THIS IS VERY ELEGANT FOOD.
OUR THIRD DISH --
FRIED ZUCCHINI AND SOFT-SHELL CRABS WITH WILD FENNEL,
LYING ON A BED OF CRISPY FRIED POTATOES.
OH, THEY'RE SO CUTE. FANTASTIC.
OH, MAN.
THESE ARE VERY NICE, YES.
YOU SEE THE MENU.
IT'S WRITTEN, "NO SALT AND WITHOUT LEMON,"
IN ORDER TO INVITE THE CUSTOMER NOT TO ASK FOR LEMON,
BECAUSE LEMON HERE RUINS EVERYTHING TO ME.
TONY, DO YOU REALLY NEED LEMON HERE?
NO, YOU DON'T.
AND AS IS ALWAYS THE CASE IN ITALY,
IT SEEMS THEY KNOW WHEN TO SAY WHEN.
WELL, IF YOU WANT TO EAT SOMETHING --
UH, I --
YOU'RE --
WELL, OKAY, MAYBE NOT.
YOU STILL HAVE ROOM? [ SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
YEAH, SOME --
YEAH.
I THINK WE'RE JUST ABOUT DONE.
OKAY, WE'RE NOT EATING ALL OF THIS.
[ WOMAN SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
OH, MAN, LOOK AT THAT. OH, MAN.
OH, MA, ENOUGH!
UP NEXT...
De Mori: OH, WOW. WOW.
THAT LOOKS HOT.
YES.
...INKY, TEETH-BLACKENING, SEA-CREATURE GOODNESS.
ANYTIME YOU FIND
THE ITALIANS AND THE CHINESE DOING THE SAME THING,
IT'S PROBABLY BECAUSE IT'S A REALLY GOOD IDEA.
LIDO ISLAND -- AN 11-MILE-LONG SANDBAR
PROBABLY MOST FAMOUS AS THE SETTING
FOR THOMAS MANN'S CLASSIC NOVEL
OF HOMOEROTIC LONGING AND TERMINAL ILLNESS,
"DEATH IN VENICE."
REAL UPBEAT FILM, TOO --
LOTS OF YUKS IN THAT ONE, I CAN TELL YOU.
THE GRAND SEASIDE RESORTS OF ANOTHER AGE
STILL ATTRACT A WHO'S WHO OF INTERNATIONAL DOUCHEDOM.
BUT ME -- I'D SOONER BE SEEN AT A CRACKHEAD RODEO
THAN SET FOOT ON THE BEACH HERE IN CABANA LAND.
[ BIRDS CHIRPING ]
BUT THIS BEING VENICE,
JUST A COUPLE OF BLOCKS BACK FROM THE INFERNO
LIVES OUR FRIEND STEFANO, THE MOORING MAN, AND HIS FAMILY,
A DECIDEDLY DIFFERENT, MORE LOW-KEY SETTING --
A HOUSE, A BACKYARD,
KIDS RUNNING AROUND, GRANDMA IN THE KITCHEN.
YOU KNOW THIS IS GONNA BE GOOD, RIGHT?
De Mori: E LA MAMA, SHE'S THE HEAD CHEF IN THIS HOUSE.
Bourdain: DOES EVERYBODY'S MOTHER MAKE THIS DISH THE BEST?
SI.
[ SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
THE FAMILY MATRIARCH --
STILL APPARENTLY HAPPY TO STAND FOR HOURS ON END,
PAINSTAKINGLY MAKING FAMILY MEALS FROM HEIRLOOM RECIPES.
SHE SAYS SHE WOULDN'T HAVE IT ANY OTHER WAY.
VENICE'S GREAT RESTAURANTS --
TO A GREAT EXTENT, ITALY'S --
SUCCEED OR FAIL TO THE DEGREE
THAT THEY EVOKE THIS KIND OF COOKING.
TO MY MIND, CERTAINLY,
ITALIAN COOKING IS HOME COOKING.
AND TODAY, I'M REALLY HAPPY IT'S STEFANO'S HOME.
WHAT HAD BEEN A HEAVY, SUFFOCATING, LATE-SUMMER HEAT
LIFTS WITH A NICE, SUSTAINED BREEZE OFF THE ADRIATIC
THROUGH THE CURTAINS OF THIS TINY FAMILY KITCHEN.
ONIONS START TO COOK.
[ SIZZLING ]
FAMILY MEMBERS HELP OUT.
A LITTLE OF THIS, A LITTLE OF THAT --
INGREDIENTS MEASURED OUT IN PRACTICED INCREMENTS BY HAND.
[ SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
SALUTE E GRAZIA.
YEAH?
BAD MANNERS TO LET PASTA GET COLD.
ALL RIGHT. IT'S SO PRETTY.
WE START WITH BIGOLI,
A THICK, TUBULAR, LONG-CUT PASTA,
LIKE A HOLLOW SPAGHETTI,
IN A SAUCE OF SLOW-MELTED, SALT-CURED ANCHOVIES.
AS WITH NEARLY EVERYTHING ON THE MENU,
IT'S LABOR-INTENSIVE.
[ SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
SO, WHEN YOU KNOW THAT YOU WANT TO HAVE THIS PASTA,
YOU HAVE TO START THREE DAYS AHEAD.
THREE DAYS AHEAD?
[ CONVERSATION IN ITALIAN ]
[ LAUGHS ]
SO, SHE SAID, "YOU HAVE TO KILL THE ONIONS.
"THE ONIONS HAVE TO DIE.
"AND THEIR DEATH IS THAT THEY JUST DISSOLVE...
AND GIVE THEMSELVES UP."
OH, YOU MEAN DURING THE COOKING PROCESS.
SO YOU MELT THEM.
YOU SAY MELT, AND SHE SAYS KILL.
LOTS OF PEPPER AND WHITE WINE.
DOES EVERYBODY'S MOTHER MAKE THIS DISH THE BEST?
YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN?
SI.
IT'S INDESCRIBABLY FLAVORFUL
AND IS JUST THE RIGHT BALANCE OF SAUCE TO STARCH --
SAUCE MORE CONDIMENT THAN MAIN EVENT,
AS MY FRIEND MARIO MIGHT SAY.
MM-MM-MMM.
OH, MAN, THAT'S THE BEST.
OH, WOW.
THAT LOOKS HOT.
THAT'S THE CREATURE FROM THE BLACK LAGOON.
YES. EXCITING.
CUTTLEFISH FROM THE LAGOON, COOKED IN ITS OWN INK
AND SERVED WITH FRESH, SLOW-COOKED POLENTA.
THE POLENTA, STILL STEAMING,
IS CUT AT THE TABLE WITH A THIN THREAD,
AND THEN ALL THAT GOODNESS LUXURIATES
IN AN INKY BATH ON YOUR PLATE.
DOES ANYTHING ELSE THAT TURNS YOUR TEETH BLACK TASTE AS GOOD?
ANYTIME YOU FIND
THE ITALIANS AND THE CHINESE DOING THE SAME THING,
IT'S PROBABLY BECAUSE IT'S A REALLY GOOD IDEA.
OH, YEAH.
WE'RE HAVING PRETTY MUCH
PRETTY MUCH THE BEST.
AND THE MOST FAMOUS OF VENETIAN DISHES,
THE CLASSIC LIVER-AND-ONIONS FEGATO VENEZIANA --
SWEAT THE ONIONS, SEAR THE LIVER,
DEGLAZE WITH WINE, COOK THROUGH, AND SERVE.
IT'S JUST A WONDERFUL, WONDERFUL FLAVOR.
ONIONS ARE MIRACULOUS THINGS.
YOU CAN MAKE AN ONION TASTE SO MANY DIFFERENT WAYS,
DEPENDING ON HOW YOU TREAT IT.
NO MYSTERY HERE --
ONLY A DELIGHTFULLY SWEET, SOUR, SAVORY SYMPHONY OF OFFAL.
[ BIRD CHIRPS ]
I'D LIKE TO ASK BOTH MOMS HERE --
WHEN YOU GO OUT TO A RESTAURANT, WHAT MAKES THEM ANGRY?
[ CONVERSATION IN ITALIAN ]
PASSION -- IF THERE'S NO PASSION, IT'S --
PASSION AND THEN ANOTHER "P" WORD,
PATIENCE.
WHICH THERE'S -- IT ABOUNDS IN VENICE.
SHE LIKES TO EAT HER OWN FOOD.
IF SHE'S HOME BY HERSELF,
SHE MAKES HERSELF A LOVELY MEAL ALL BY HERSELF.
I DON'T THINK SHE'S GOING OUT VERY OFTEN.
AND QUITE SIMPLY, IT'S EASY TO SEE WHY.
THIS IS ONE OF THOSE "LUCKY TO BE ALIVE,"
MM.
A PERFECT AFTERNOON, THE KIND OF AFTERNOON
I WAIT FOR, HOPE FOR, AND LIVE FOR --
AN ITALIAN FAMILY AT A BACKYARD PICNIC TABLE,
GRANDMA COOKING, A SCENE FROM A PAST NOT MY OWN,
FROM A MOVIE I NEVER LIVED BUT ALWAYS WANTED TO BE IN.
ALL THINGS MUST PASS. DAY TURNS TO NIGHT.
ART IS LONG, LIFE IS SHORT, AS THE SAYING GOES.
BUT IN THE END,
EVEN ART GROWS OLD, CRUMBLES INTO NOTHINGNESS.
NOTHING LASTS FOREVER,
HOWEVER HARD WE TRY AND HOLD IT CLOSE.
MAYBE THAT'S WHAT'S HELD OUR GAZE YEAR AFTER YEAR,
SINCE THE VENETIAN EMPIRE ENDED.
IT'S THE SLOW DECLINE, THE LONG AND GLORIOUS DEATH,
THE RISING DAMP, THE SINKING WALLS --
BEAUTIFUL, TRULY BEAUTIFUL THINGS IN PERIL.
AND YET, LOOK NOW, ONE THINKS OF VENICE --
A CITY MILLIONS OF TOURISTS HAVE YET BEEN UNABLE TO RUIN.
LOOK NOW.