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Our sound and fire insulation is in. Our next level of sound attenuation is to
install the resilient channel
Now some people call it zed channel, res bar, sound bar, Whatever you call it the
function is the same. What we're trying to do is we're trying to decouple
the drywall ceiling
from the framing structure.
Decoupling means that
the drywall doesn't actually ever touch
the wood framing structure.
It is essentially hanging from these bars.
Now the magic in the res-bar, resilient channel is in the fact that
we're only screwing it in
on these tiny screw points
every sixteen inches we're screwing it in.
What that means is the drywall surface does not touch the whole surface of the
joist.
The only place to sound can be transmitted
from the drywall to the framing structure
to the next unit
is for these tiny screw holes. Another cool thing that's offered in this
resilient channel is
these little zig zags which is why it's often called z-channel.
There's little zig-zags here which the sound has to work through
almost like a maze to get to the screw,
to get to the framing structure, to get to the next unit.
It adds about five cents a square foot to the renovation but it's probably the
most inexpensive way
that you can add sound protection
between two units in a multi unit property.
I can't stress enough
that you have to install the sound bar properly because if you don't you might
as well not put it in at all.
Now you're going to screw your drywall into the resilient channel just like it's a
regular ceiling joist. It's about the same thickness of the ceiling joist
and you're going to screw your drywall boom, right in the center.
Now the way to short out this resilient channel is to screw it in
this cross-hair
so that you fasten the hanging ceiling
to the framing structure. As soon as the ceiling is not hanging anymore you have
no more sound attenuation, your sound protection is gone and the vibrations
are going to go away from the drywall ceiling into the framing structure into
the next unit. You might as well not put it if you're gonna short it out.
It's important before we screw it in, we want to make sure that we have clearance on
every joist. Sometimes you'll get into a situation
as in with this heating duct here where we don't have the clearance, then what
happens if we screw these in,
we would get a bend or kink in the resilient channel.
Not good.
So what we're going to do is take this down real quickly and adjust this
A good way to tell is just to
poke your head up in the joist of look straight down and if anything pops out between the wood ceiling
joist you can see that they're gonna get the way.
I think that looks pretty good.
We're installing the resilient channel at sixteen inches on center as if they were just
floor joists.
Now it's important to note that we've kept the resilient channel away from every
side of the walls 'cause we don't want them touching the wall
we don't want them touching that wall, we don't want them touching that wall
So we've kept about a half inch on this side, a couple inches on the edge of the, the
end of the resilient channel.
One thing you always want to remember when installing resilient channel
is your electrical boxes.
You gotta remember were lowering the finished ceiling by about half an inch
so what we have to do is we have to go around and lower all of our electrical
boxes by a half-inch
we don't do that
they won't be flush.