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Gotta do it like this. No. Like this. Dammit! Judo punch!
Hi everyone! LoudSound shop speaking!
You've been complaining there've been too little videos from the shop and too little Arty lately.
Like you haven't seen Arty for ages. Here he is, btw.
[A]: Hi, everyone!
Today's video is from the shop. It features tips on putting a system together, and Arty.
I ean I feel like Tigran and his *** cat are starting to annoy a tad. So oday it's what's not been there for a while
The system is ready by now. It's all the way there, on the roll, 'cuz the table is kinda busy.
Adn the topic today is a bit untypical of us. I mean, we usually suggest systems including the head unit,
Today we're outting it up for people who have no desire to let the original HU go.
MAny are unwilling to do that 'cuz the HU doubles as a carputer display with all the info. Some refuse to compromise original designs
So today we're going to tip you on how to replace the stereo with min time and finacial costs
and, if possible, by yourselves, although my advice is to always attend to professional ateliers
So, you've just bought a new car, or your car is not new but there are reasons to keep the head unit,
Some people believe that replacing just the speakers would do the job. Well, it won't.
Simply replacing the speakers might bring in some minor improvement. Adding tweeters if there were none would do much difference
Yet anyway you need an amp. It's a fault on 99% original HUs - there are no RCA outputs there.
HUs lack RCA a.k.a. Cinch or phono output. That is the low-profile signal you need to lead into your amp.
There are two ways out. Even three. Number one is using a high level to low level signal converter.
You can grab the acoustic signal from the wiring leading to the speakers and convert it to low level signal.
№2 is an amp with an in-built converter. You just lead high level signal in the amp and let it do its magic.
And option №3 is a processor. The majority of those is capable of converting signal leve high to low, so you can wire an amp.
Today we decided to go with the simplest option. We chose a converter. No the cheapest one, tho.
It's MD Lab SQ6, one of the finest.
Looks like a simple box, with regulators on the top, incoming plugs for input and feed,
and the RCA outputs we need. For front, rear and the sub. 3 pairs are more than enough for systems like these
Here we put i the signal from the original stereo's acoustic wiring. Left/right here, and L/R here, too
There's no 2/4-channel switch so if you're retrieving signal from two speakers only, you can double them here
L/R here, and the same L/R here.
This plug is coming up a little later, once I mention the second most popular problem with the original stereos.
What do we need the regulators for? This one is signal sensitivity. If you have interference, put the input signal down to put it up on the amp
Or vice versa. If your incoming signal is too weak, put it up here. There's an in-built pre-amp here.
And here you put out the interblock wiring for the amps, be it monoblock or 4-channel, whatever your scheme suggests
The 2nd problem you face with original HUs is that they are not fit to be wired to some extra hardware like amps
In some systems, there is an antenna. Once you start the car, the antenna receives the signal to come out.
In this case, no problem is there. Just use that wire to connect the amps.
Otherwise, there are 3 options which are hillbilly (amateur) job, expensive job and a compromise I'll speak of in a bit.
But let's go one by one. Hillbilly job means youwire it to relay. Some are know to wire the amps to the sidelights
So the system goes on once the sidelights are on.
Some just install a tumbler.
The costly way is to install a CAN-bus. Once the car's started, it sends + on one of the system's wires. Use that wire for the amp.
For those who didn't get a word of what I'm saying. The system is constantly off even though there's + and - wires connected to it
So to turn on the amps, there is a controlling rem wire needing to be 10 V or 12 V (doesn't matter) to come in
What is that for? Even when the system is not playing but is kept turned on, it consumes power.
And so to prevent your batteries from going down all the time, the stereo is constanty off.
So to turn it on, you need to either put in + amnually via a tumbler, or install a CAN-bus.
OR you can use this puppy which has an option of turning on on signal appearance in acoustic wiring.
So when you turn on the originl system, there will be signal on acoustic wiring which will turn this on.
Moreover, this thing can pass this rem on to the amps.
So the hardware recognizes the turn-on signal, starts working and passes the turn-on signal on to the amps
This is an amazing compromise to beat up both hillbilly-ness and costlyness.
The thing has regular feed mode, too. In some systems there troubles with the scheme we've just described
Some phantom sounds appear in the acoustic wires, and the system turns on while you're away.
This doesn't happen very often, but I have faced a couple of situations like that
If you have it, then you go with either the hilbilly thing, or with the expensive way.
Another advantage is that you can install it in the trunk which speaks for interblocks a lot shorter
than the ones you'd need if wiring an HU located in the original spot in the front in which case you'd need 5 m long wires.
Short interblocks are a figure cheaper than the long ones so this thingy can safe you a couple of bucks.
Sure thing you'd need to connect it eith the HU via acoustic wires, but those are way, way cheaper.
A piece of advice on where to get the signal from. Many people get it from original tweeters which is a mistake
as the signal there could be clipped on the HU or n some crossover on the way. So whatever you do you won't get the frequencies outside the set range.
So please, make sure the whole stripe come in here.
The price for this little converter is ₽6,500
This is it about the converter. I've covered all the pros and cons, gave my advice. And now let's move on to
the next item which is the stereo itself. The speakers.
The original parts need to go, that's certain. And we chose the ost popular size for today, 16.5 cm (6.5").
It is a combo. Tweeters + crossover + speakers. Pretty much everything you need to install.
So you just lead two wires from the amp to it. All the rest leave for the crossover.
And by 'all the rest' I mean clip the low frequencies off of the tweeters. Otherwise, they'll burn.
All you need is one box like this It features a manual in case you don't know how to install the speakers, or their characteristics.
It also features a precise manual on how to wire a crossover; all the sizes, all wiring schemes.
whether you want it screwed or stuck to the dashboard. There's double-sided duct tape for he latter.
So you can install 'em whichever way you want.
Here come the speakers. With protective grills.
For sale! A bit used.
Decent make, very nice. Looks great, and plays so, too.
Guys heard 'em play. aid they were good. Unfortunately, I cannot back their words, I haven't hear the yet.
But I trust Atry and Den. They test all the speakers from time to time.
Every now and again, they put speakers in there and test. These ones got guys' approval. Otherwie we wouldn't be showing them to you today.
Here are the crossovers. I'd cal them 2nd order filters.
The wiring is easy-peasy. Here it says IN. It's where you lead the channel from the amp.
And here it says 'Tweeters', so that's where you connect them. And here are the tweeters.
And a woofer. For those who don't know, it's also called sometimes 'mid-woofer'. No rocket science.
Crossover, tweeters, speakers. Very simple installation.
And I want to separately say about the grills. There's this option. I don't know if it was intended so.
But you gotta do it like this. No. Like this. Damit! Judo punch!
Yeah, so and what we have left is just the grill without the net.
For the audiophilic, so that the net does not fish out the sound!
Well, yeah. In certain SQ circles there is a widespread opinion that the net is bad influence on the sound quality
I can't help but agree with them. It certainly does influence the sound. Not sure if negatively, though.
But I am pretty sure it hinders some of the volume capacity.
This speaker has an option of installing the grill without the net. So it's not glued or stuck there. It's just well-shoved in
And once you set the grill tight, it will hold even better in there.
Speaking the IT language, this is no bug but a feature.
You can use this grill for this acoustics as well as for any other 6.5" (16.5 cm) speaker.
Let's, say, grab the X6. Here it comes right into the original slots. Fits like a glove.
And makes up for such a badass setting, actually.
So don't throw these. Those who buy speakers to be installed in the covers, you can give these to your friends or sell 'em online.
Nice quality plus great looks. A great rest for one's eye.
Now to the amp. You need one with the claimed power of at least 50 W
although I'd strongly recommend you to choose the ones of 70-80 W. Power surplus is never a bad thing.
Amps like that do not struggle playing.
The sound quality is better and voltage drop are minimal in those cases.
And here we have two options of wiring. Number one is, as I've already mentioned, using a crossover.
And channel-to-channel. The latter would give out better SQ, you'll be able to finetune the tweeters, the clip
but that would be possible only if your amp supports thosse kinds of filtering.
For today's video we picked up a Ural. Let me show you.
The HPF - high-pass filter - should be 5-8 KHz.
Or it may say 8,000 Hz.
As an example of an amp that's not for you, here's a Ural that says 200 Hz.
An amp like this doesn't pass for ch-to-ch wiring.
However it's quite a feasible choice when used with a crossover.
So if you pick the first one I showed you, you may just as well say farewell to crossover.
Be careful, tho. With the lack of experience, the chances to burn the tweeter boost up as you'll be feeding it separately.
And almost any amp has nough power capacity to burn a tweeter, if wired without enough thinking.
So I recommend you to pay extreme attention to setting up the sys. Once the tweeters are overloaded, they start making weird unpleasant noises.
As for mid-bass speakers, HPF filter is not that critical here. 100-150 Hz would be enough.
Set it until you reach the point where you hear the bass you need but lose the farting. That's not hard.
Once you cut it too loose, the speaker starts suffocating on the bass and ugly by-sounds and noises appear.
I've said that a gazillion times. Setting up a sys, you need to find the balance between the volume and the bass.
So the optimal way is to set it to the volume you like, then start turning up the bass.
Once you hear the farting, use the filter to cut off the lower range.
If you do it correctly, the farting will go but so will some of the bass volume.
So look for the balance, and if you find it, you'll be both listening to great bass and reduce the risk of burning the speaker.
And if you decide not to do a ch-to-ch -- today we chose a nice 4-channel amp with a great crossover so we can go both ways --
So if you choose to use the original filter, you can save some money and pick a 2-channel amp.
You can crossover the 2 channels and then put out the wiring from them to the tweeters and the mid-bass speakers.
This amp costs ₽6,400 but you can buy a more affordable 2-channel amp.
Or you can spend the same money and buy a 2-channel of higher class.
For the sub chain the only thing limitimg you is the bass level you want to hear at the end of the day.
Our today's system is, well, above beginner lvel so we can go with a 650 W monoblock by NFC.
This puppy has all the features you need and in case you decide to go further on someday and add a second monoblock,
you can bridge them together. Here's the master/slave switch
So you wire them to each other through these outputs, set one as master, the other one as slave
And they wil work together while the power will multiply
But remeber also that the electricity consumption will grow, too.
The cost of thi monoblock is ₽11,900. The main advantage is that it is fairly small.
and just like any piece of hardware by Alphard, this one has zero trouble with warranty issues.
To me, this factor speaks a lot in favor of a device as monoblocks fall under the highest risks.
The first things to break are subs and monoblock. Alphard has never caused any difficulty in this respect which is great.
As for the sub itself, e picked an all new Machete MS. It costs less than Machete M.
Frankly speaking, we haven't had a chance to crush test it against its big brother yet.
But judging on the sales, the sub is quite a reliable one, and it plays nicely.
So look, what an affordable sub we got.
The price is ₽4,300. And you'll need a box for it. You can go with a close box, or if the trunk is too small, you can go with a bass reflex.
A box like that would cost you somewhere between ₽₽1,500-3,000 depending on the maker, the shape and the materials used.
So roughly speaking, the sub budget here is about ₽6,000-7,000 .
To eliminate the risk of claiming your warranty, I suggest you take good care of the feeding and say NO to aluminium wiring.
For today we picked a pretty affordable yet copper wire we use very often. It's 25 sq ПВ-3
To be fair, this is not the best wire to work with in terms of mounting as it is very rough.
And it's a huge pain in the neck to lay it in winter time.
But the copper ratio is at least as much as in famou brand wires, sometimes even higher. It means more oxidation, but it's no big deal.
It's not like you're going to use the wire constantly for 10 years anyway. And even if you do, so it will go greenish wherever the insulation comes off.
Wel, nothing terrible happens with these wires.
I used ПВ-3 in my BMW even though the project was by far not a low-coster.
It's just it's freaking out when you have on option to but some famous brand wiring worth ₽30,000 or buy this for the half of that money.
And when you clearly realize that ₽15,000 diference won't lead to major faults or voltage losses. Not at all.
Sure, if you need some hardcore stuff, like a showcar, it will kill you to lay such rough wires,
Folding and binding is no pleasure. Then the wiring with silicone coating would be better. You can pick tinned copper to avoid greening.
For this system, we chose this type of wires because it was very affordable and did just as much as brand wires in terms of functions.
The cost is ₽230/m. We're gonna need 11 m. I advise you not to stretch one small piece along the car. Lay both + and - at the same time.
There's 5 m hood-to-trunk, and it's always god to have an extra meter, so 11 m should begood to go.
To lay the wiring in the trunk you're gonna need a thingy called distributor.
This one is T-shaped. There are various kinds. One in/3 out or 4 out, of different size etc.
We often use these 3-ways. It's just enough for a trunk. You lead in 1 wire and the 2 you lead out to a 4-channel (or 2-channel) amp and the monoblock.
You'll need 2 of these - one for the +, one for the -.
They cost ₽230 a piece.
which makes it ₽460 for distributors.
Do we need fuses in the trunk? I have always been sure we did not. I mean, using a fused distributor is assuring, right?
But we forget one little detail. The fuse does not protect the amps. It protects the wire.
If short-circuit occurs somewhere in the body, electricity needs to be cut off so that the wire doesn't overheat and the coating does not catch fire.
That is why the fuse needs to be as close to the feed source as possible.
I mean, if short-circuit occurs somewhere in the middle and the fuse goes off in the trunk, most of the wire will stay charged. No use in that, is there?
So if an accident occurs or a wire laid by an idiot gets worn out in the bend, you get a short-circuit and the and the wire catches fire.
So we got a mini-ANL fuse by Audio Nova. Per EMMA rules, it shall be installed no farther than in 40 cm range from the power cell.
You can install it closer. I don't know the logic behind that 40 cm figure. The closer you make it, the less of the wire'd be left charged.
The complete kit costs ₽270. Everything's here so you won't need any parts.
Just cut the wire, put one end here, the other one over here and then screw it all in with hexagon bolts.
To connect the power wire to the power cell you'll need lugs. You can order them from us or buy at any construction store.
Choose copper ones. We had an incident. The customer claimed they received the wrong lug, an aluminium lug.
I mean, they opened the package and saw the lug of silver color, aluminium color.
The thing is, the lug was of tinned copper. So if they'd file it a bit, they'd see pink copper. We sell only copper lugs.
'cuz aluminium lugs would oxidise in no time.
The reason you shouldn't buy Al lugs -- Tigran has a whole 'graveyard' for lugs with Al wire in 'em
The Al wire suffers from oxidation very quickly and it starts getting damaged. So the wire turns dust,
the contact gets lost. And lost contact on the feed wire is a sign of potential spark, hence fire.
Better safe than sorry, right? So if you have a choice, always pick Cu over Al. Make it cheap ПВ, at least it's Cu.
The same goes with Al acoustic wiring. I mean, it won't set fire but the signal quality with be bad and go worse
so in a year you'll have to replace the wire. It will get thinner and start falling off. I know that from experience.
We've faced a lot of trouble having to get that dust from connectors.
Oh, almost forgot about these. These are interblock wires. As I've said, for the trunk, you'll need 'em short.
Today we're going with Dynamic State interblocks. They're 1m long which is enough for a trunk located sys.
The only thing is, you're gonna need to install the converter close tot he amps, and then these would do.
In case you're using a -channel amp with a crossover, two sets of these would be enough. The cost is ₽270/set
In our case, we need 3 sets whic makes our interblock wiring budget as follows: ₽270*3=₽810.
So this was a tip on upgrading your stereo for no more that ₽40,000. I think we accomplished the challenge.
I mean, sure, the components are variable.
[₽40,610 + discount for ordering at Loud Sound]
We chose the components that have been selling well and the ones we were very sure about.
This doesn't mean that any other components suck. You are free to choose whatever you want.
BUT you must buy them from us. Am I saying it right?
Why, you ask? Here's why.
I obviously recommend you to order from our online store.
Recently, tons of online stores have opened. I mean, they don't even bother making up a name.
Let alone the total lack of expertise in car sound. Well, yeag, some have been doing it for, like, six months.
So they just name their shops just changing the first word, Something Sound.
They must be thinkng, Loud Sound is a known brand. Why bother then? My shop will be, say, Shmuloud Sound.
Or, I don't know, Chilloud Sound. Whatever. Don't you think it's just me being aggressive to my competitiors.
I like decent (!) competition. It's that lots of their customers then turn to us to help them sort out the problems they get to face.
For instance, they got a ₽500 discount but, say, the shipping turned out costly, or the goods were not the ones they'd ordered,
or the store never consulted them on proper installation and everything went sideways or burnt.
And we get to clear up the hot mess left by those sellers.
Our store has been on the market for longer than others.
Our competitiors for today - I wouldn't even call them that but s for the level of merchendice and the sales,
those are DNS, Ulmart and some other chain electronics stores. They might not focus on car sound, but the sales are great with them.
So I would definitely recommend you ordered goods from us. Even if you feel something's more costly here,
you'll get it covered with free shipping, gifts and bonuses, consultation and warranty services we do.
Whenever we cannot provide you with top-notch servicing, we seek for the best decision possible.
In every order sent there's a letter with my personal cell number where you can reach me to solve any problems
be it shipping, quality or any other issues. I personally control the feedback with the clients.
Plus, you don't only get consulting and bonuses, you also help us develop car sound.
I mean, the majority of people entering this business do it for money and only for money.
Many of them have never been keen on car sound and don't even own cars with daily systems.
Some ut up creepy crappy things they call demo-cars thus scaring off ones and misleading the others,
'cuz people see that crap and think that that is how it's supposed to be.
There's a whole lotta people out there who spoil the image of this hobby for revenue.
So if you're ready to betray your belief in car sound for a one-time discount and to give your money to someone
who's very likely to waste your money next second doing good for neither their business or for the industry, you're welcome.
We here will try to make more videos. I know there's been few of them lately. We've been facing a lot of issues
but at the same time, we'll have a lot of news. For one, we're currently testing our SPL-wars site (check below).
We've finally launched our LoudSound.ru site.
It operates on a new engine. You can order there now.
Dare I say, this is the best online store in the whole Russia as for car sound.
We got troled recently regarding the .su store that it was far from perfect even though it's the most popular resource on the topic
We've fixed a lot of bugs and are still troubleshooting. The store runs the same engine as Ulmart and DNS.
Like the major online-stоres in Russia, we switched to that very engine.
It takes tons of money and effort. 15 people are working on this project. I don't mean they're all in the same room working. We outsorce, too.
A lot of money and effort have been put in. I hope you love shopping or getting consultations there.
Support the resource, too. Even if you are not planning on buying anything yet, please, just go there and check ou the site.
and comment what you'd improve there.
I know this video is doomed to failure. There's no cat. Especially, no *** cat. But the weather is terrible.
And the video itself all about other things.
But still I hope you do You-Know-What and share it with You-Know-Whom.
Or else there will be nary vodeo. And in the ones that will be there, will be less of Arty. Let's thank him for being my cameraman today.
[A]: Shall I do what the cat does?
So this is the system we picked.
Leave your suggestions for future videos in the comments section.
And let me also remind you that we own the craziest sub collection that has ever been there in Russia. Or maybe in the world, too.
The toppest of al here is Soundstream SMD. This one SP4, right?
Ground Zero Plutonium. Check this out. BL Fi. Native American!
Here we have everything. B2s, Xs. Everything you can think of.
[A]: X15, X12 and even X10.
Silicone lids for your taste.
Deaf Bonce here. Pride UFO.
Lots of Prides here. Kicx. All their new-comers. All of them.
What was the Tornado's letter? Z? Or was it X? Slipped out of my mind.
All the Ural's new items. Armada, Titanium, Warhead.
We've got some of these puppies. What are these? PowerBass.
That baby over there. Power bass over here. So much to choose from.
Here's some lithium, fairly small. Are hese sold? Compare to my arm here. See? Can fit under the hood.
What's the cost?
[A]: ₽20,000.
Yeah, okay. ₽20,000 is one power cell. There are two available right now.
D3100... Well, you got the idea. I go like that for very long time. You got it, we have lots of new stuff and old stuff.
Wow, I forgot the DDZ! Over there. Won't name the price.
The DD crowd now it, right? Some more Sundown Audio. SA-15, SA-12. One Pride S there. Can't make out from here which one, though.
New Deaf Bonces.
Subscribe, leave your comments. But please, don't write ***!
Judo punch!
The amps keep --
What's he want again?
Hi.
[W]: Where does the water tap close?
[A]: Want us to close it?
[W]: Yes, please, do.
I forgot where I stopped. Damn those Armenians!
[A]: Say it again!
There comes another one. He'll ask to open the tap.
Who do you think we are? Aquamen?
A so you get a nice and stylish gri - don't even think about entering!
[A]: Somebody's getting fired!
We're going for ₽40,000. Some money might even be left. You can spend it on proofing or to pay for the job.
Or you can buy ***. Well we, Arty?
We'll drink after we do the inventory.
Happy drinking or sad drinking. But we wil be drinking!
[translated by Rosalinne4k]
[₽40,610 + discount for ordering at Loud Sound. Ask a site manager for more information]