Tip:
Highlight text to annotate it
X
Hi, I'm Debrah DeMirza, at Deluxe, a resale clothing boutique, in Eugene, Oregon, and
today, I'm going to show you how you hem the sleeves of a suit jacket, so what you need
to do first, is determine how much it needs to be hemmed, by trying it on the person,
and then pinning it. Usually, the person will tell you where they like it to fit, and you
can't just, obviously, just turn it under, and sew it. There's a complicated series of
events you have to do, but you can make it as simple as you'd like, and it will probably
still have the same nice outcome. First of all, if you're folding it here, you have to
take off the buttons that will be in the way, so you take them off, but before you take
them off, you observe and measure how, what distance the last button was, from the edge
of the jacket, and how close the buttons are sewn together, because that's where you want
to put them all back together, so you remove the buttons, and then they'll be a series
of points that were tacked down. They're not usually sewn all the way, but this little
tacking points, and you have to undo those, and you also have to undo the lining. It's
usually all hand stitched. You just carefully undo the lining, and then separate that from
the sleeves, and then you'll find that this all opens up, and what I do, is each jacket
is made a little differently, if it's vintage or new. What you can do, is just follow the
reverse of how the jacket is put together, so I make sure that every step of the way,
I just observe what was undone, and where it was tacked back together, so that once
you make your new line, you can follow all those back in reverse, sew your buttons back
on with the same distance that the last button was, and tacking the inside where it was.
The last thing you want to do, is sew your lining onto the edge, and you fold under the
lining. Make sure that when you pull the sleeves taut, you can make sure that the lining isn't
folded under too much. You don't want there to be any pull on the inside of the jacket,
from the lining being too tight, or so loose, that it hangs out, from the bottom of the
sleeve, and that just has to do with upholding it taut, from all the seams up here, and then
just gently pulling it down, and finding out where a new fold seam is. As you can see,
they left about an inch and a half, from the edge of the jacket, so you can just resew
it, the same way they had it, and you hand sew that back in, so it's invisible on the
front of the sleeve, so that's how you sew a suit jacket sleeve.