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HOLY [BLEEP]
THAT'S A LOT OF [BLEEP] ***!
SOMEWHERE, AN AGING SUPERMODEL IS CRYING.
AAAH!
I'M ANTHONY BOURDAIN.
♪ THAT'S RIGHT ♪
I WRITE.
I TRAVEL.
I EAT.
AND I'M HUNGRY FOR MORE.
♪ OOH ♪
♪ YOU GOT TO ♪
♪ GET LOST ♪
-- Captions by VITAC -- www.vitac.com
CAPTIONS PAID FOR BY THE TRAVEL CHANNEL, L.L.C.
ANOTHER JUNGLE, ANOTHER RIVER.
BUT THIS ONE -- THIS ONE'S SUPPOSED TO BE DIFFERENT.
PANAMA'S DARIéN GAP.
THERE'S NO SMALL IRONY IN THE FACT THAT THE COUNTRY
THAT HAS THE MOST FAMOUS PASS-THROUGH IN THE WORLD,
THE PANAMA CANAL,
ALSO CONTAINS ONE OF THE MOST IMPENETRABLE, INHOSPITABLE,
POSSIBLY EVEN LETHAL JUNGLES ON EARTH.
OVER THE CENTURIES, EXPLORERS AND PROFITEERS ALIKE
HAVE ATTEMPTED TO CREATE A ROAD OR HIGHWAY
BRIDGING THE TWO CONTINENTS,
EXPECTING TO CONQUER THIS JUNGLE
THE SAME WAY THEY'VE CONQUERED THE NEW WORLD.
MANY HAVE TRIED. ALL OF THEM HAVE FAILED.
OUR RINKY-TINK PROPELLER PLANE OUT OF PANAMA CITY
LANDS ON A REMOTE STRIP IN THE VILLAGE OF SAMBU.
BEFORE I'M FINISHED,
THERE'LL BE A JOURNEY UPRIVER...
A TREK THROUGH THE JUNGLE ON NARROW TRAILS...
I THINK I'M GONNA FEIGN A SEIZURE.
[BLEEP] CARRY ME UP THAT HILL.
...ALL TAKING ME DEEPER INTO A PLACE
THAT HAS LITTLE CHANGED
FROM THE WAY IT WAS A MILLION YEARS AGO.
HOW DID I END UP HERE --
NOT JUST IN THIS JUNGLE, BUT PANAMA, PERIOD?
WHAT DO I KNOW ABOUT PANAMA?
THAT'S RIGHT -- PANAMA.
I'M HERE ON A WHIM.
I'VE HAD NO REAL EXPECTATIONS,
AND THAT'S THE WAY IT'S BEEN SINCE MY FIRST DAY IN-COUNTRY.
SO FAR, SO GOOD.
IT'S BEEN SAID THAT THE NAME "PANAMA"
IS DERIVED FROM AN INDIGENOUS WORD
MEANING "LAND OF ABUNDANT FISH."
WITH THIS COUNTRY EMERGING INTO THE 21st CENTURY
AS AN INCREASINGLY IMPORTANT GLOBAL ECONOMIC NERVE CENTER,
THE IDEA OF ABUNDANCE SEEMS ALL THE MORE FITTING --
ABUNDANCE OF COMMERCIAL WEALTH,
ABUNDANCE OF DIFFERENT ETHNICITIES,
ABUNDANCE OF NATURAL BEAUTY,
AND AS MY FRIEND AND LOCAL RESTAURATEUR JULIO PASQUA
IS ABOUT TO SHOW ME, AN ABUNDANCE OF -- WELL, FISH.
MORE SPECIFICALLY, CEVICHE.
HAVING THE WORLD'S TWO MAJOR OCEANS ON EITHER SIDE,
PANAMA ENJOYS THE FULL SPECTRUM OF SEAFOOD FROM BOTH.
JULIO'S GOT ME IN A MULTI-STOP CEVICHE BOUNCE
AROUND PANAMA CITY.
FIRST, CLOSE TO THE SOURCE AT THE MERCADO DE MARISCOS.
Bourdain: SMELLS GOOD.
IT SMELLS LIKE A GOOD FISH MARKET.
Pasqua: WELL, THIS PLACE WAS FILLED WITH JAPANESE INFLUENCE.
WHAT DO YOU MEAN, "JAPANESE INFLUENCE"?
JAPANESE GOVERNMENT DONATE TO THE CITY
ALL THE TECHNOLOGY AND EVERYTHING THAT HAS TO DO WITH THIS MARKET.
WHY DID THEY DO THAT? THAT'S AWFUL NICE OF THEM.
AS A FAVOR, YOU LATER HAVE TO CASH IN.
OH, RIGHT. THE CANAL.
EXACTLY.
IT DOESN'T SUCK HAVING AN INDISPENSABLE CHOKE POINT
ON GLOBAL COMMERCE IN YOUR BACKYARD, RIGHT?
YOU COME THROUGH PANAMA, OR YOU DON'T COME AT ALL.
LOOK AT THE SHINY NEW FISH MARKET.
THANK YOU, JAPAN.
Bourdain: SO, WHAT ARE THE PRINCIPAL FISH?
THE FISH THAT MOST PEOPLE EAT AROUND HERE IS THIS ONE.
IT'S A KIND OF SEA BASS WE CALL CORVINA.
CONCHA NEGRA -- BLACK CLAMS.
LANGOSTINOS.
LANGOSTINOS?
THAT WOULD BE PRAWNS.
SPINY LOBSTER.
EXACTLY.
PLENTY OF GOOD STUFF,
BUT THE GO-TO, EVERYDAY, QUICK MEAL OF CHOICE --
CEVICHE,
FISH THAT'S TOSSED QUICKLY IN CITRUS AND SEASONINGS.
AROUND HERE, THEY MARINATE IT UNTIL IT'S BASICALLY COOKED.
WHICH IS YOUR FAVORITE PLACE?
RIGHT HERE WITH THE BEAUTIFUL GIRL.
[ CONVERSING IN SPANISH ]
I'M HITTING THE ROCK-LOBSTER- AND-SHRIMP CEVICHE FIRST.
MMM.
IS THERE MAYONNAISE?
[ SPEAKING SPANISH ]
THIS IS LIKE A --
CEVICHE COCKTAIL.
COCKTAIL.
MMM. SPICY, FRESH, DELICIOUS.
[ SPEAKING SPANISH ]
YOU SHOULD TRY A LITTLE BIT OF THIS ONE RIGHT HERE.
IT'S THE MOST CLASSIC -- CORVINA.
GRACIAS.
IT'S THE BIGGEST SELLER BY FAR.
THEN YOU'VE GOT YOUR CLASSIC CORVINA-AND-LIME-JUICE CEVICHE,
WHICH IS, IN ONE FORM OR ANOTHER, EVERYWHERE IN PANAMA.
LOOKS PRETTY.
MMM.
I FEEL SO HEALTHY.
[ SPEAKING SPANISH ]
SHE'S PREPARING SOMETHING SPECIAL FOR YOU.
I ASKED HER FOR A SPECIAL LECHE DE TIGRE.
AND FOR THOSE OF US
WHO MAY OR MAY NOT HAVE HAD TOO MUCH TO DRINK LAST NIGHT,
THERE'S THE UBIQUITOUS CURE-ALL OF LATIN AMERICA,
LECHE DE TIGRE -- BASICALLY THE RUNOFF FROM THE CEVICHE.
THIS ONE IS THE MIX OF THE CORVINA ONE,
THE SHRIMP ONE, AND THE CONCHA NEGRA ONE.
AHH.
SALúD.
YEAH.
WHAT ABOUT CEVICHE? WHAT WOULD YOU BE DRINKING WITH THIS?
SECO -- DRINK THAT'S MADE OUT OF SUGARCANE.
IT'S PURE -- LOOKS LIKE ***.
WOW.
LATER ON. DON'T WORRY.
THERE WILL BE MORE CEVICHE, AND YOU'VE HAD A SECOND BEER.
GOOD THING I'M DRINKING THIS, THEN.
NOT ALL CEVICHE IS CREATED EQUAL.
THERE'S THE EVERYDAY AND THE MORE...CREATIVE.
MAREA -- THE KIND OF CHIC OPEN-AIR RESTAURANT/LOUNGE
YOU CAN FIND ALMOST EVERYWHERE THERE'S MONEY.
WELL, I'M GUESSING THERE ARE A FAIR NUMBER OF APPLETINIS
CROSSING THE BAR.
I'M GOING FOR THE SECO SOUR, A MORE INDIGENOUS BEVERAGE.
WHAT WOULD TWO GENTLEMEN ABOUT TOWN IN PANAMA CITY DRINK?
DOS SECO SOURS, POR FAVOR.
SEVERAL PARTS SECO --
A KIND OF SUGARCANE LIQUOR LIKE CACHAçA --
SOME SOUR MIX, A LITTLE SIMPLE SYRUP, DASH OF BITTERS,
AND THERE YOU HAVE IT,
A BEVERAGE THAT, NOT UNLIKE THE CEVICHE STYLE HERE,
OWES MORE THAN A LITTLE DEBT TO PERU.
IS THERE A PANAMANIAN IDENTITY CULINARILY?
THE KIND OF CROSSROADS OF CULTURAL INFLUENCES
YOU SEE ALL OVER PANAMA.
AH, HERE WE GO.
FUSION GOES DOWN MORE ELEGANTLY
WHEN YOU'RE TALKING RAW SEAFOOD --
TUNA CEVICHE WITH PONZU SAUCE AND BLACK SESAME, FOR INSTANCE.
THE MOST OVERDONE DISH IN THE WORLD IS TUNA TARTARE.
RAW CHUNKS OF TUNA TOSSED OR MARINATED IN ANYTHING
IS, LIKE, NEVER, FOR ME, AN INTERESTING --
THIS IS REALLY GOOD.
VERY SESAME.
THEN YOU'VE GOT THE MARISCOS TROPICALE --
MIXED SHRIMP, OCTOPUS, CALAMARI WITH SEA SALT,
PINEAPPLE, PASSION-FRUIT SAUCE,
AND A GENEROUS HINT OF MADRAS CURRY.
THESE ARE NOT TINY PORTIONS.
WOW, THAT'S NICE. MORE A SWEET/SOUR THING.
CORRECT.
SWEET, SOUR, AND SPICY.
WHY DO YOU THINK CEVICHE IS POPULAR HERE?
THE WEATHER, AND WHAT YOU EAT WITH IT, WHICH IS BEERS.
IT'S MUCH MORE LAID-BACK HERE.
YES. VERY LAID-BACK.
WE APPARENTLY HAVE THE HIGHEST PERCENTAGE OF PEOPLE
THAT COME BACK TO THIS COUNTRY.
WHEN THEY COME BACK,
THEY'RE HAPPIER TO BE PANAMANIANS THAN THEY COULD BE.
IT'S BEEN GOOD FOR US.
THE OPPOSITE END OF THE SPECTRUM
FROM THIS MORNING'S CEVICHE, BUT SURPRISINGLY GOOD.
CHINATOWN, PANAMA CITY.
YES, THEY HAVE ONE, AND IT'S OLDER THAN NEW YORK'S.
WE'RE TALKING RED LACQUER, ROAST PORK,
AND NO SKIMPING ON THE MSG.
CHINESE FOOD TENDS TO GET SHINIER
THE FURTHER WEST IT GOES.
[ TRADITIONAL CHINESE MUSIC PLAYS ]
WHERE ARE WE?
HONG KONG? NO.
SINGAPORE? NOPE.
WE'RE IN THE OLDEST ASIAN COMMUNITY IN THE AMERICAS,
BARRIO CHINO.
I'M MEETING UP WITH DANIEL CHANG,
A FIRST-GENERATION CHINESE PANAMANIAN,
TO FIND OUT -- HOW CHINESE IS PANAMA?
Bourdain: THIS IS THE OLD CHINATOWN, RIGHT, THE ORIGINAL CHINATOWN?
ORIGINAL CHINATOWN.
MAYBE THE OLDEST IN AMERICAS.
YOU WERE BORN HERE.
I WAS BORN HERE -- FIRST-GENERATION.
YOUR PARENTS BOTH BORN IN CHINA?
EXACTLY.
SO, WHERE ARE WE GOING TO EAT TODAY?
SO THIS IS KWANG CHOW, WHICH MEANS "CANTON" IN CHINESE.
OLD-SCHOOL CANTONESE.
YEAH, OLD-SCHOOL CANTONESE.
THE TERM "MELTING POT" GETS THROWN AROUND A LOT
WHEN YOU'RE TALKING MULTI-ETHNIC COMMUNITIES,
AS DOES THE TERM "OLD-SCHOOL."
I OVERUSE IT ALL THE TIME.
BUT IF THOSE TERMS HADN'T ALREADY EXISTED,
YOU'D KIND OF HAVE TO INVENT THEM TO DESCRIBE THIS PLACE.
ROAST DUCK, MASSIVE WONTONS,
THE FADING RED-LACQUER DECOR AND IMPERIAL CHINESE DOORWAYS.
IT'S LIKE NEW YORK, 1952.
THIS IS A PLACE WHERE PANAMANIANS OF EVERY HUE
COME TOGETHER TO EAT
WHAT'S NOW AS TRULY PANAMANIAN AS ANYTHING ELSE --
STARCHY PORTIONS OF WESTERNIZED FAVORITES.
ONE IN FIVE PANAMANIANS HAVE A CHINESE NAME AND DESCENT.
THAT'S A LOT. THAT'S 20%.
I MEAN, YOU COULD JUST SEE IT WALKING IN THE STREET.
BUT FIRST, BACK TO THAT OLD-SCHOOL STUFF.
THIS ONE CERTAINLY FITS THE BILL -- STIR-FRIED TRIPE.
IT'S DELICIOUS.
HERE COMES THE DUCK. YEAH.
AND WHAT SAYS "OLD-SCHOOL"
QUITE LIKE ROAST DUCK, WONTON SOUP, AND ROAST PORK?
OH, YEAH, THERE'S THE PORK. AWESOME.
HUNKS OF PORK.
IT'S A CLICHé AT THIS POINT ON THIS SHOW,
BUT IT'S JUST SO TRUE -- "I JUST CAN'T RESIST."
CHINESE FOOD TENDS TO GET SHINIER
THE FURTHER WEST IT GOES.
SOME PLACES DO USE MSG.
I HAVE NO PROBLEM WITH MSG. I LOVE THE STUFF.
I'D SPRINKLE IT ON MY BREAKFAST CEREAL
IF I ATE BREAKFAST CEREAL.
AS A RULE OF THUMB, EVERYBODY WE'VE MET SO FAR --
I MEAN, JUST VERY UP ON THE NATIONAL-PRIDE BIT.
HOW PANAMANIAN DO YOU FEEL?
I DO FEEL PANAMANIAN -- I MEAN, A LOT.
WHEN THE SOCCER TEAM IS PLAYING,
I HAVE TO GO WITH MY COUNTRY.
I TRAVEL WITH A PANAMANIAN PASSPORT,
BUT MY HERITAGE IS CHINESE.
DANIEL CHANG'S STORY'S THE SAME FOR SO MANY PANAMANIANS
WHOSE ANCESTORS MIGRATED HERE TO WORK THE CANAL.
[ WOMAN SINGING IN SPANISH ]
[ RHYTHMIC CLAPPING ]
[ DRUMBEATS ]
LIKE THE CHINESE LABORERS, THE DESCENDANTS OF SLAVES
FROM JAMAICA AND OTHER WEST INDIAN ISLANDS
ALSO CAME HERE TO WORK ON THE RAILROAD AND THE CANAL,
AFFECTING BOTH COMMERCE AND PANAMANIAN CULTURE.
ISLA GRANDE, 47 MILES FROM PANAMA CITY,
ON THE ATLANTIC SIDE OF THE ISTHMUS.
VERY DIFFERENT VIBE HERE.
IT'S A POPULAR WEEKEND-GETAWAY SPOT
FOR THE OVERWORKED, OVERSTRESSED MIDDLE CLASS
FROM THE CITY,
AND HAS, DESPITE ITS POPULARITY
AND ITS HOLD ON THE IMAGINATION,
MANAGED TO REMAIN LARGELY UNSPOILED.
JOINING ME ON MY TRANS-ISTHMUS TRIP
FROM PANAMA CITY TO ISLA GRANDE
IS MY GUIDE, TERRI, AND HER CHEF FRIEND FRIEDA.
[ TRAIN WHISTLE BLOWS ]
SO, WHERE ARE WE GOING?
WE'RE GONNA GO THROUGH THE EXACT SAME ROUTE
THAT THEY MADE THROUGH THE PANAMA CANAL
AND THE PANAMA RAILROAD.
THE RAILROAD WAS BUILT IN, WHAT -- 18...
1855.
1855. PREDATED THE CANAL.
RUNNING PARALLEL TO THE CANAL,
THIS LINE WAS ONCE THE ONLY WAY
TO GET FROM ONE COAST TO THE OTHER.
IT WAS BUILT BY AMERICAN INTERESTS
AS A SAFE ROUTE TO MOVE GOLD
FROM CALIFORNIA TO THE EAST COAST.
IT TOOK A LOT OF LIVES TO BUILD THIS RAILROAD
THROUGH MARSHY, FETID, MALARIAL JUNGLE.
A LOT.
A LITTLE OVER AN HOUR LATER, AND WE'RE HERE.
A SLEEPY BEACHFRONT --
NOT EXACTLY THE FOUR SEASONS ACAPULCO HERE.
CONGO RESTAURANT AND RESORT, SUCH AS IT IS,
IS THE FIRST AND ONE OF THE ONLY PLACES IN TOWN.
FOR ME, IT'S ALL ABOUT THE LOBSTER AND THE CRAB,
DELIVERED STRAIGHT FROM THE SOURCE
BY INDIGENOUS KUNA INDIAN FISHERMEN,
FALLEN-OUT-OF-THE-BOAT FRESH.
Bourdain: SHELLFISH, BARE FEET, AND BEACH.
YOU GOT PALM TREES.
Frieda: NO JET SKIS, NO SPEEDBOATS.
NO MADNESS AT ALL. RIGHT.
THAT'S A BEAUTIFUL THING.
A BEAUTIFUL THING.
AND THIS STUFF -- ALSO BEAUTIFUL.
FRESH LOBSTERS STEAMED AND BATHED IN GARLIC-BUTTER SAUCE,
THESE MASSIVE FREAKING CRABS, AGAIN WITH THE BUTTER,
AND THEN THIS -- SHOCKINGLY, CONSIDERING THE COMPETITION,
THE BEST OF THE LOT --
OCTOPUS, SLOWLY STEWED WITH ONION, GREEN PEPPER,
SPICES, AND CURRY IN COCONUT MILK --
A HAPPY CONFLUENCE OF CARIBBEAN FLAVORS
SOMEHOW GREATER EVEN THAN THE SUM OF ITS PARTS.
AMAZING.
AND, OF COURSE, YOU GOT TO HAVE THE COCONUT RICE,
AN ISLAND FAVORITE.
[ GASPS ]
IT IS AMAZING.
THAT'S NICE.
GRACIAS.
IT LOOKS AWESOME.
MAY I?
YEAH.
IT'S DELICIOUS.
MM-HMM.
MMM.
OH, YEAH. THAT OCTOPUS IS EXTRAORDINARY.
WOW.
THIS IS A FEAST, GUYS.
HOW MANY YEARS HAVE YOU BEEN COMING HERE?
20.
HAS IT CHANGED THAT MUCH?
NO.
SO IT'S A CERTAIN TYPE OF TRAVELER
WHO COMES ON A CERTAIN TYPE OF VACATION COMES HERE.
IF YOU'RE LOOKING FOR A FLAT-SCREEN TV,
MINIBAR, AND INTERNET...
FORGET ABOUT THAT. THIS IS NOT THE PLACE FOR YOU.
I ALSO NOTICED
THAT FAIRLY WEALTHY MIDDLE-CLASS PEOPLE FROM PANAMA CITY
SEEM TO VIEW THIS PLACE WITH A GREAT DEAL OF SENTIMENT.
THEY DON'T MIND LIVING WITHOUT CREATURE COMFORTS
FOR A LITTLE WHILE HERE.
SO NO AROMATHERAPY. I CAN'T GET AROMATHERAPY HERE.
YOU'RE GETTING IT.
YEAH, YOU'RE RIGHT ABOUT THAT.
THAT OCTOPUS -- THAT'S MY AROMATHERAPY.
[ LAUGHS ]
MM-HMM.
WOULD YOU LIKE MORE?
THAT'S PROBABLY A REALLY GOOD IDEA.
[ LAUGHS ]
YOU KEEP YOUR HEAD DOWN AROUND THESE PARTS.
NO LIMBO CONTEST ON THE POOL DECK.
HELL, NO POOL.
CELLPHONE SIGNAL? NOT REALLY.
PRETTY MUCH BARE BONES AND COLD BEER.
NICE.
HOUSE OF HORRORS OR A UNIQUE FIXER-UPPER?
NEXT, THE MOST RIVETING TELEVISION EVENT
SINCE THE OPENING OF AL CAPONE'S VAULT.
Bourdain: NOW, WHY HAS THIS BEEN CLOSED SO LONG?
TODAY, LIFE IN PANAMA IS FAIRLY PROSPEROUS,
HOPEFUL FOR THE MOST PART,
AND, MOST SIGNIFICANTLY, A DEMOCRACY.
WASN'T ALWAYS SO.
MANUEL NORIEGA.
MAYBE YOU REMEMBER HIM FROM SUCH YEARS AS 1983 TO 1989,
WHEN HE WAS OUR MAN IN PANAMA.
BUT AS IT TURNS OUT, OLD MANNY WAS NOT ONLY GAME IN THE CIA,
BUT ALSO SELLING INTELLIGENCE TO THE GOVERNMENT OF CUBA.
HE VOIDED THE PANAMANIAN ELECTIONS
AND HAD HIS LAWFUL SUCCESSORS BEATEN
IN FULL VIEW OF THE WORLD.
HE WAVED HIS MACHETE AROUND
AND BASICALLY TOLD THE U.S. OF A.
TO GO [BLEEP] ITSELF.
THIS WAS TOO MUCH EVEN FOR HIS FORMER MASTERS.
BAD MANNY.
[ WAGNER'S "FLIGHT OF THE VALKYRIES" PLAYS ]
IN DECEMBER OF '89, JUST IN TIME FOR CHRISTMAS,
THE MARINES CAME IN, AND MANNY WAS ON THE RUN.
FLEEING FROM ONE LOCATION TO ANOTHER,
HE ENDED UP CLAIMING SANCTUARY HERE.
MANUEL NORIEGA'S LAST STAND,
HOLED UP JUST ACROSS THE STREET THERE AT THE VATICAN EMBASSY.
WE COULDN'T TOUCH HIM,
'CAUSE IT'S BASICALLY FOREIGN TERRITORY OVER THERE
OR, WORSE, HOLY GROUND.
SO IT WAS DECIDED THAT THE ARMY PSYCHOLOGICAL WARFARE UNIT
WOULD BOMBARD POOR MANNY WITH '80s ROCK AND POP MUSIC.
[ ROCK MUSIC PLAYING ]
BUT WHAT WAS ON THE PLAYLIST?
MICHAEL JACKSON'S "BEAT IT."
METALLICA.
YOU KNOW, WAS HE AN OPERA FAN?
GUNS N' ROSES' "WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE."
THAT'S A GREAT SONG.
AND VAN HALEN.
VAN HALEN?
THOUGH, I GUESS IT MAKES A BIG DIFFERENCE --
DAVID LEE ROTH VAN HALEN OR SAMMY HAGAR VAN HALEN?
SAMMY HAGAR VAN HALEN...
ULTIMATELY, HE FOLDED.
HE WAS PACKED OFF INTO U.S. CUSTODY IN A FEDERAL PRISON,
WHERE HE REMAINS TODAY.
IT'S EASY NOW, WITH THE PASSAGE OF TIME, TO JOKE ABOUT HIM.
BUT MANUEL NORIEGA WAS A MORE DANGEROUS AND COMPLICATED MAN
THAN A CARTOONY IMAGE.
WHAT HE DID TO MANY OF HIS OWN PEOPLE --
TORTURING AND DISAPPEARING THEM AT WILL --
WAS NO JOKE AND STILL ISN'T.
THIS IS MANUEL NORIEGA'S HOUSE,
LOCKED UP AND OFF LIMITS TO THE PUBLIC,
WHO HAVEN'T BEEN ALLOWED IN HERE
SINCE THE U.S. FORCES TORE THROUGH THE PLACE.
IN A TRAVEL CHANNEL EXCLUSIVE,
WE'RE GONNA GIVE YOU THE FIRST LOOK INSIDE.
LET'S GO.
WHAT HIDEOUS SECRETS LIE INSIDE THESE WALLS?
Bourdain: NOW, WHY HAS THIS BEEN CLOSED SO LONG?
WHY HAVEN'T THEY LET ANYBODY IN, DO YOU THINK?
Antonio: THIS HAS BEEN, LIKE, ON A GRAY AREA FOR MANY YEARS.
IT DID BELONG TO THE GOVERNMENT, OR IT DID BELONG TO NORIEGA,
SO THEY DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO WITH THIS PROPERTY.
LOCAL HISTORIAN MIGUEL ANTONIO
AND AN UNNAMED GOVERNMENT CARETAKER
VOLUNTEERED TO SHOW ME THROUGH THIS INFAMOUS HOUSE.
NOW, WHAT WERE YOU DOING IN THOSE GOLDEN YEARS?
WERE YOU POPULAR WITH THE GENERAL
OR NOT POPULAR WITH THE GENERAL?
NO, I WAS NOT REALLY POPULAR WITH THE GENERAL.
I WAS ONE OF THE MANY MEMBERS OF PANAMA
AGAINST NORIEGA'S REGIME BACK THEN.
IF YOU WERE CAUGHT, THEN YOU WERE TAKEN TO JAIL
AND PROBABLY TORTURED OR DO OTHER BAD THINGS TO YOU.
WHO KNOWS WHAT KIND OF UNCHECKED DEPRAVITY
WENT ON WITHIN THESE WALLS?
WE SHOULD SO TOTALLY SWITCH TO INFRARED --
YOU KNOW, GIVE THIS SHOW THAT CREEPY
"MAYBE IT'S HAUNTED" KIND OF PRODUCTION VALUE.
THAT MAKES ANYTHING SCARY.
Antonio: WELL, YOU CAN SEE WHAT PASSAGE OF TIME,
THE HUMIDITY, AND TERMITES DO TO THE PROPERTY
IN JUST LESS THAN 20 YEARS.
AS ONE MIGHT EXPECT, AFTER 20 YEARS OF NEGLECT,
IT'S A BIT OF A MESS.
Caretaker: EN EL BAÑO.
BATHROOM.
BAÑO.
WHOSE? DO WE KNOW?
WHOSE ROOM? DO WE KNOW?
NO.
SO FAR, NOT THE BLOOD- AND ***-SPATTERED
RUMPUS ROOM OF DESPOTIC HORRORS I'D IMAGINED.
PAINTINGS OF POKER-PLAYING DOGS?
EVIL POKER-PLAYING DOGS?
THE GADHAFI PORTRAIT WITH MOVING EYES?
NOT HERE.
BATHROOM? OH, NICE BATHROOM.
OH, SAUNA. NICE.
RIGHT NOW, THE RATIO OF TOILETS
TO DUNGEONS FILLED WITH THE CORPSES OF MIDGET SEX SLAVES
IS KIND OF LOPSIDED.
I FEEL SO "GERALDO," SO "AL CAPONE'S VAULT."
Bourdain: I MEAN, THEY SHOWED ON TV,
LIKE, MILLIONS OF DOLLARS AND SANTERIA OBJECTS, YES?
Antonio: YES. HE HAD ANOTHER ROOM FOR SANTERIA.
SANTERIA.
THAT'S RIGHT -- NORIEGA WAS REPORTED BY THE MILITARY
TO BE UP TO ALL SORTS OF EVIL, DEVIL-WORSHIPING,
CHICKEN-SACRIFICING SORT OF [BLEEP] IN HERE.
LOOK IT UP.
SO, THIS IS WHERE HE KEPT ALL THAT VOODOO AND SANTERIA [BLEEP]
Caretaker: YES. SANTERIA.
WHAT?
[ SUSPENSEFUL MUSIC PLAYS ]
[ THUNDER CRASHES ]
EVIL!
[ LAUGHTER ]
Antonio: OH, THIS IS FROM THE CHRISTMAS.
CHRISTMAS DECORATION.
I MEAN, DO YOU THINK HE ACTUALLY PRACTICED SANTERIA?
HE HAD THE SANTERIA MEN, WHATEVER, THAT WOULD COME.
OH, REALLY?
YES. YES.
AND I THINK HE WAS ALSO BUDDHIST.
ALSO?
YES.
BAD BUDDHIST.
[ LAUGHTER ]
HANNAH ARENDT WROTE BRILLIANTLY ABOUT THE BANALITY OF EVIL,
ABOUT HOW THE MOST EVIL OF PEOPLE
ARE OFTEN THE MOST ORDINARY -- EVEN BORING.
AND CASA NORIEGA SEEMS TO BEAR THIS OUT.
DOESN'T CHANGE THE FACT THAT NORIEGA WASN'T A NICE GUY.
[ SIREN WAILING ]
WE'RE GOING SOMEWHERE.
NOT SURE WHERE, 'CAUSE I GATHER IT'S CLASSIFIED.
HERE, MO, GIVE ME YOUR CAMERA.
BULLETPROOF VESTS FOR ALL OF US?
OKAY.
[ CAR BUMPING ]
HELLO?
ALL I KNOW IS MY NEW PAL GUSTAVO PéREZ,
WHO USED TO WORK WITH MANNY BACK IN THE DAY BUT IS NOW
THE FACE OF THE NEW DEMOCRATIC LAW-AND-ORDER ADMINISTRATION,
IS VERY EXCITED.
HE SAYS I'M GONNA HAVE A GOOD TIME.
[ SPEAKING SPANISH ]
SO, WHAT'S WITH ALL THE SOLDIERS AND ALL THE GUNS?
"WHAT'S IT ALL ABOUT?"
ONE MIGHT BE FORGIVEN FOR WONDERING.
Woman: HOLY [BLEEP]
THE FOLLOWING SCENE IS AN ACCURATE DEPICTION
OF WHAT PRETTY MUCH JUST HAPPENED AT THE LAST MINUTE.
REALLY.
ONE MINUTE, ME AND THE CREW
SITTING IN THE OFFICES OF THE DIRECTOR OF NATIONAL SECURITY,
LITTLE COURTESY CALL, CUP OF COFFEE.
AND THEN SUDDENLY...
...THIS.
HOLY [BLEEP]
THAT'S A LOT OF MOTHER [BLEEP] ***!
Pérez: 6 TONS RIGHT HERE.
AS DIRECTOR OF NATIONAL SECURITY,
GUSTAVO IS SENDING A MESSAGE.
HE'S ALSO INVITED ME TO DO SOMETHING
I NEVER THOUGHT I'D FIND MYSELF DOING IN A MILLION YEARS --
BURN 6 FREAKIN' TONS OF PURE, UNCUT ***.
THERE WILL BE NO LINDSAY LOHAN JOKES.
6 TONS!
Bourdain: [ SNIFFS ] 6 TONS -- THE WHOLESALE VALUE?
Pérez: THIS IS OVER $300 MILLION TO $600 MILLION.
SO THESE ARE ALL KILO BLOCKS.
YES, KILO BLOCKS. ONE KILO, ONE LIFE.
YOU CAN IMAGINE HOW MANY LIVES ARE HERE.
15 YEARS AGO, THIS WOULD HAVE BEEN
WHAT I ASKED SANTA CLAUS TO BRING ME FOR CHRISTMAS...
IT LOOKS LIKE KEITH RICHARDS' BEDSPREAD BACK IN THE '70s.
...ALONG WITH WORLD PEACE
AND A MAGICAL PONY THAT CRAPPED GOLD KRUGERRANDS.
HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO ACCUMULATE 6 TONS?
I MEAN, A LOT OF THESE OPERATIONS TAKE YEARS.
WELL, WE'VE DONE IT IN 42 DAYS.
WE'VE BEEN WORKING.
WE'VE GOT 12 TONS.
12 TONS OF *** SEIZED IN 42 DAYS.
THAT'S LIKE 300 KILOS A DAY FOR OVER A MONTH.
SOMEONE'S REALLY GOOD AT THEIR JOB.
Bourdain: IS THERE VICTORY AT THE END?
THIS IS LIKE RED SOX AGAINST YANKEES.
IT'S A CLOSE GAME.
CLOSE GAME.
WE SOMETIMES SEE THE LIGHT. SOMETIMES WE DON'T SEE A LIGHT.
[ Rapidly ] I'M FEELING A LITTLE TWEAKY,
LIKE -- LIKE I SHOULD OPEN A RESTAURANT LOUNGE
OR MAYBE REMAKE "WATERWORLD"
OR "TOP GUN 2," STARRING ZAC EFRON.
YEAH, AWESOME!
AND WE COULD MAKE IT A MUSICAL.
GREAT IDEA.
I'D LIKE TO SAY THIS IS THE FIRST TIME I'VE COOKED ***,
BUT THAT'S NOT EXACTLY TRUE.
Bourdain: WHOO!
[BLEEP]
S'MORES, ANYONE?
THAT'S THE WORLD'S BIGGEST BOWL OF READY ROCK.
Bourdain: WELL, THAT WORKED. [ LAUGHS ]
THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR LIGHTING THIS THING -- FOR HELPING US.
THANKS FOR THE FUN.
THANK YOU. THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
CRACK IS WACK.
IN 1989, THE U.S.A. TOOK OUT A DICTATOR --
AND, UNFORTUNATELY,
MUCH OF A NEIGHBORHOOD WHILE WE WERE AT IT.
Bourdain: EVERYBODY, WHEN WE FIRST CAME HERE,
SAID THIS IS SOMEPLACE WE SHOULDN'T COME.
EL CHORRILLO 20 YEARS LATER.
BOOMTOWN HAS COME TO PANAMA IN WAVES
OVER THE LAST 10 YEARS --
A SKYLINE OF CRANES
GIVING WAY TO NEWER AND BIGGER LUXURY HIGH-RISES,
ALL JOCKEYING FOR THE ULTIMATE PACIFIC COAST VIEW.
BUT THAT'S NOT A COMPLETE PICTURE.
EVERY MAJOR CITY
HAS A NEIGHBORHOOD THAT'S BOTH TRADITIONALLY POOR
YET ALSO THE OBJECT OF MUCH HEARTFELT AFFECTION.
PANAMA CITY'S EL CHORRILLO NEIGHBORHOOD
IS ONE OF THOSE PLACES.
IT'S GOT A HOLD ON THE NATIONAL CONSCIENCE,
A PLACE BOTH DANGEROUS AND LEGENDARY.
Bourdain: IT IS A POOR NEIGHBORHOOD.
Orlando: IT'S A POOR NEIGHBORHOOD --
ONE OF THE POOREST NEIGHBORHOODS IN THE WHOLE OF THE CITY.
IT'S WHAT THE SOUTH BRONX ONCE WAS TO NEW YORKERS --
AN URBAN SHORTHAND FOR POVERTY, VIOLENCE,
AND ALL THE SOCIAL ILLS.
EL CHORRILLO, WITH A LOT OF PROBLEMS IN THE BEST OF TIMES,
WAS FURTHER DECIMATED DURING THE INVASION OF PANAMA.
NORIEGA'S DEFENSE FORCES WERE HEADQUARTERED HERE,
AND THE ENSUING DESTRUCTION WAS NEAR TOTAL.
THIS IS A NEIGHBORHOOD
THAT EVERYBODY, WHEN WE FIRST CAME HERE,
SAID THIS IS SOMEPLACE WE SHOULDN'T COME.
WHY SHOULDN'T YOU COME?
THERE IS A LOT OF VIOLENCE, GANGS, DRUG TRAFFICKING.
IT'S A PLACE WHERE SECURITY FORCES PATROL
TO KEEP TOURISTS OUT AND THE LOCALS IN CHECK.
I DON'T KNOW WHETHER YOU KNOW THIS.
WHEN WE WERE TRYING TO ARRANGE TO SHOOT HERE,
ORIGINALLY, WE WERE TOLD,
"WELL, YOU GOT TO WEAR BULLETPROOF VESTS."
NOT SO MUCH THEY WERE AFRAID WE WERE GONNA GET ROBBED,
BUT THEY WERE AFRAID OF DRIVE-BYS, I GUESS.
GANGS -- IT'S A BIG PROBLEM HERE?
YES. YES. THERE ARE MANY GANGS.
AT LEAST THERE ARE MORE LIKE 30 GANGS.
PEOPLE KILLING EACH OTHER NOT JUST FOR MONEY, BUT FOR EGO.
THIS IS FOR TERRITORY, FOR RESPECT.
ORLANDO, AN ENGINEER AND SOCIAL ACTIVIST,
IS GIVING ME SOME BACKSTORY.
SO THIS IS THE STORY OF THE INNER CITY IN DETROIT,
THE INNER CITIES OF A LOT OF PLACES WITH PROBLEMS.
PEOPLE WHO CAME TO WORK ON A BIG PROJECT,
WHETHER IT WAS MAKING STEEL OR DIGGING YOUR CANAL,
BUT WHO, FOR ONE REASON OR ANOTHER,
WERE KIND OF LEFT BEHIND.
LIFE IS NOT EASY IN THIS PLACE.
AND YET I SAW A SURPRISING NUMBER OF SMILES ON FACES,
AND MORE OFTEN THAN NOT, THOSE SMILES WERE IN CLOSE PROXIMITY
TO SOMETHING BEING COOKED OR BEING EATEN.
WHAT DO YOU EAT IN THIS NEIGHBORHOOD?
FRIED FISH.
PLANTAIN.
[ SPEAKING SPANISH ]
HE'S SELLING TAMALES.
IT'S A VERY POPULAR FOOD.
AH.
WE BETTER GET ONE OF THOSE. HOW MUCH?
[ CONVERSING IN SPANISH ]
IT'S 50 CENTS. I GOT IT HERE.
BUT FIRST, AN UNPLANNED QUICK BITE --
TAMALES STUFFED WITH PORK AND CHICKEN,
WRAPPED IN A BANANA LEAF, AND GRILLED.
WHAT'S NOT TO LIKE ABOUT THAT?
MMM.
IS IT GOOD?
THAT IS GOOD.
MMM. GOOD STUFF.
YEAH, MAN, THANK YOU.
DESPITE THE MANY PROBLEMS
THIS NEIGHBORHOOD DEALS WITH EVERY DAY,
FINDING GOOD FOOD IS APPARENTLY NOT ONE OF THEM.
NEED MORE PROOF?
CHECK OUT THIS PLACE --
LOCAL SEAFOOD FAVORITE CALLED SOROLO.
ULTIMATELY, I CAME FOR THE FISH. LET'S NOT FORGET.
IN A TOWN THAT LOVES FRIED FISH,
SOROLO IS SAID TO BE ONE OF THE BEST PLACES.
FRESH COD FILLETS
MARINATED, DREDGED, AND FRIED TO CRISPY DELICIOUSNESS.
BUT FIRST I GOT TO HAVE THE STEW, RIGHT?
[ SPEAKING SPANISH ]
THIS GUY -- SINCE I CAME IN THE DOOR,
HE'S BEEN POINTING AT THAT SOUP.
YOU KNOW, WHEN YOU WALK INTO A RESTAURANT
AND SOMEBODY'S GOING -- THE CHEF OR THE OWNER'S GOING...
Orlando: YES. HE WANTS YOU TO TAKE THAT.
THAT'S NICE.
[ SNIFFS ]
YEAH.
SEÑOR?
IT'S GOOD, MAN.
HERE COMES MY FISH.
A LITTLE RICE, 'CAUSE YOU GOT TO HAVE THAT,
SOME SLAW.
SIMPLE ENOUGH.
NICE.
THAT'S DELICIOUS.
THIS IS AWESOME. VERY FRESH.
SO, WHAT HAPPENED HERE DURING THE INVASION?
THEY TALK ABOUT LIKE 5,000 PEOPLE KILLED
DURING THE INVASION.
BUT THERE ARE NO OFFICIAL RECORDS.
IN RETROSPECT, YOUR AVERAGE PANAMANIAN,
ARE THEY HAPPY THAT NORIEGA'S GONE?
THAT'S A VERY HARD QUESTION.
YOU WILL HAVE PEOPLE FROM BOTH SIDES.
WHAT ABOUT THE GUYS AT THE NEXT TABLE?
WHAT DO THE LOCALS THINK?
SITTING AT THE TABLE NEXT TO US
IS SOROLO OWNER PEDRO RODRIGUEZ,
ARMENIO RIVERA, AND HIS WIFE, ARISELA SGUTIERREZ.
APART FROM THE INVASION --
LET'S JUST SAY IT NEVER HAPPENED --
LIFE AND OPPORTUNITY BETTER BEFORE,
OR ARE THINGS GETTING WORSE?
[ ORLANDO SPEAKING SPANISH ]
[ SPEAKING SPANISH ]
VIOLENCE IS A SUBJECT
OUR FRIEND HERE KNOWS SOMETHING ABOUT.
TAKE A LOOK AT THE EYES ON THIS GUY.
YOU HAVE HARD EYES, MY FRIEND.
EXCEPT WHEN YOU LOOK AT YOUR FAMILY.
[ TERRI SPEAKING SPANISH ]
[ LAUGHTER ]
THESE ARE THE EYES OF A GUY WHO'S TAKEN A LIFE --
ACTUALLY, TWO.
A FORMER NEIGHBORHOOD BOY AND GANG LEADER.
NOW, AFTER A LENGTHY STRETCH IN PRISON,
A REFORMED CHARACTER AND ACTIVIST, AS WELL.
HE AND HIS WIFE MINISTER AND OFFER SAFE HAVEN
TO GANG MEMBERS TRYING TO BREAK OUT
OF THE CYCLE OF DRUGS AND VIOLENCE.
[ SPEAKING SPANISH ]
WE HOPE THAT ALL THESE CHILDREN
THAT ARE PARTICIPATING IN GANGS
UNDERSTAND THAT IT'S NOT THE RIGHT PATH.
[ SPEAKING SPANISH ]
AND THE ONLY WAY TO BE ABLE TO GET OUT OF A GANG
AND LIVE A NORMAL LIFE...
[ SPEAKING SPANISH ]
...IS TO FIND GOD.
Bourdain: NOW, HERE'S THE THING I'VE NOTICED.
WE'VE BEEN MANY PLACES WITH EXACTLY THE SAME PROBLEM.
AND THE ONLY PLACE OF FANTASTIC CHANGE WAS IN MEDELLIN.
40% OF THE ENTIRE BUDGET FOR THE CITY WENT TO EDUCATION.
WOULD THIS HAVE AN EFFECT HERE IN THIS SAME SITUATION?
[ CONVERSING IN SPANISH ]
YES, THEY DO NEED THE MONEY.
ONE KILO, ONE BODY.
THE CYCLE OF POVERTY AND VIOLENCE.
IT'S A STORY WE'VE SEEN IN OUR TRAVELS AGAIN AND AGAIN,
FROM RIO TO WEST BALTIMORE TO BUENOS AIRES
TO MEXICO CITY TO LOS ANGELES.
TANGIBLE HOPE OR WAITING FOR A MIRACLE?
ONLY TIME WILL TELL.
EVEN THE RIVER WANTED HIM DEAD.
CAN I MAKE IT THROUGH A JUNGLE SHOW
WITHOUT AN "APOCALYPSE NOW" REFERENCE?
I GUESS NOT.
135 MILES SOUTH OF PANAMA CITY
AND ABOUT 1,000 YEARS BACK IN TIME.
THE DARIéN GAP SECTION OF PANAMA --
ONE OF THE WILDEST, MOST DENSE JUNGLE REGIONS ON EARTH.
MY FRIENDS BACK IN PANAMA CITY THINK I'VE LOST MY MIND.
NONE OF THEM HAVE BEEN HERE.
FEW WOULD EVEN THINK OF COMING HERE.
DENSE, PRIMORDIAL,
LITERALLY IMPENETRABLE BY MODERN TECHNOLOGY.
IT'S SAID THAT NOT EVEN THE DEEPEST HEART OF THE AMAZON
HAS ANYTHING ON THIS WILDERNESS.
WE LAND IN THE VILLAGE OF SAMBU
AT THE MOUTH OF THE SAMBU RIVER.
Arauz: SAMBU IS THE BASE
WHERE THE EMBERA RESERVATION BEGINS,
GOES ALL THE WAY UP THE RIVER ALMOST TO ITS BIRTH.
I'M MEETING HERNAN ARAUZ, A NATIONAL PARK GUIDE
AND LIFELONG EXPERT ON THE DARIéN.
TO SAY THAT HE WAS BORN TO EXPLORE THIS AREA
IS NO EXAGGERATION.
HE'S THE SON OF AMADO ARAUZ AND REINA TORRES ARAUZ,
THE WORLD'S FOREMOST EXPERTS ON THE DARIéN.
SINCE I WAS A KID, I WAS RAISED SEEING MY FATHER
ARRIVING AT HOME WITH HIS BACKPACKS,
WITH HIS BEARD HALF-GROWN
OR MY MOTHER COMING FROM FIELD TRIPS.
SO IT WAS SOMETHING THAT I GREW UP WITH,
AND I KEEP DOING IT.
I'VE BEEN DOING THIS NOW FOR ALMOST 20 YEARS.
AND GIVEN THIS PEDIGREE,
HIS KNOWLEDGE OF THE AREA IS APPROPRIATELY PRODIGIOUS.
THE DARIéN HAS ALWAYS HAD THIS AURA OF MYSTERY, OF DANGER.
IT'S PART OF THE TRADITION HERE.
HE'S GONNA TAKE ME 3 TO 4 HOURS UPRIVER BY BOAT
TO A COMMUNITY LARGELY UNCHANGED
FROM WHEN WESTERNERS FIRST TRIED TO CONQUER THIS LAND.
BUT BEFORE A TREK OF SUCH SCALE IS UNDERTAKEN,
A LITTLE LUNCH IS PROBABLY IN ORDER.
AND IN SAMBU, THE GO-TO FRIED-FISH JOINT OF CHOICE --
IN FACT, THE ONLY FRIED-FISH JOINT OF CHOICE,
AS FAR AS I CAN SEE,
IS COMIDAS BENEDICTA,
AN APROPOS NAME FOR THE PLACE WHERE WE'LL HAVE OUR FINAL MEAL
BEFORE HEADING UPRIVER --
A LOCALLY CAUGHT DEEP-FRIED CORVINA,
COCONUT RICE, PATACONES, OR FRIED PLANTAINS,
AND BEANS, A WELCOME AND FAMILIAR TASTE.
ANY DEFINITIVE TRAVEL GUIDEBOOK WILL SAY IN NO UNCERTAIN TERMS
JUST HOW UNIQUELY DANGEROUS THIS PLACE IS.
THEY SAY IF YOU GET LOST IN THIS JUNGLE,
YOU'RE A GONER -- END OF PARAGRAPH.
NO REFERENCES. THE END.
Bourdain: WHAT BAD THINGS WOULD LIKELY HAPPEN TO ME?
THERE'S MALARIA IN SOME PLACES.
SNAKES?
DEFINITELY.
I HAVE SEEN A BUSHMASTER WHOSE HEAD WAS AS BIG AS MY FIST.
BUSHMASTER -- I DON'T LIKE THE SOUND OF THAT.
FER-DE-LANCE IS A WELL-KNOWN NAME.
AND THAT'S THE MOST POISONOUS SNAKE ON EARTH, ISN'T IT?
IT'S ONE OF THE MOST AGGRESSIVE.
PUT IT THAT WAY.
I'VE CAUGHT THEIR HEADS VERY CLOSE TO MY LEG.
WHAT DO YOU MEAN, YOU CAUGHT THEIR HEAD?
THE MACHETE. THOOMP!
OH.
OH, LOOK AT THIS.
OH, LOOK AT THIS.
GRACIAS, SEÑORA.
THEY SAY IN THE DARIéN, YOU HAVE TO EAT WHEN YOU CAN,
BECAUSE YOU DON'T KNOW
WHEN YOU'RE GONNA HAVE YOUR NEXT MEAL.
RIGHT.
[ LAUGHS ]
Woman: UH-HUH.
OUR EMBERA GUIDES ARE EXPERT
AT PICKING THEIR WAY UP THE AT TIMES INCREDIBLY SHALLOW,
EVER-CHANGING SAMBU AND ITS TRIBUTARIES,
SEEING OBSTRUCTIONS UNDERWATER...
...FINDING A WAY ALWAYS FORWARD.
IT'S NO SMALL TASK.
WE'RE GONNA GET THE TOUR BOAT UP HERE.
HERE WE ARE, ARRIVING IN CONDOTO.
ABOUT 3 1/2 HOURS LATER,
WE ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF CONDOTO.
THE EMBERA -- A PEOPLE LARGELY UNTOUCHED BY THE MODERN WORLD.
ONE OF THE LAST ORIGINAL TRIBAL GROUPS OF PANAMA.
HEY, TONY, LET ME INTRODUCE YOU TO THE VILLAGE.
[ SPEAKING SPANISH ]
NOT SO MUCH TO DO HERE.
BATHE IN THE RIVER, HANG OUT, MAYBE A WALK.
OR GET ONE OF THESE COOL TATTOOS.
ACTUALLY, MORE LIKE A SEMIPERMANENT BODY PAINT.
THE INK FROM THE JAGUA FRUIT APPLIED TO THE SKIN
TAKES OVERNIGHT TO SHOW UP.
THE INK WILL LAST ABOUT SEVEN OR NINE DAYS.
Arauz: JAGUA IS ONE OF THE TRAITS
THAT TIES THE EMBERA TO AMAZONIAN TRIBES.
SHE HAS PAINTED ON ME
THE PATTERNS OF A FER-DE-LANCE VIPER,
ONE OF THE FEARED SNAKES OF THE DARIéN FOREST.
THESE TATTOOS ALSO HAVE A PRACTICAL ANGLE
SERVING AS A PROTECTION FROM INSECTS,
OF WHICH THERE ARE MANY.
NICE.
THIS'LL CONFUSE THE BARISTAS AT THE AIRPORT STARBUCKS --
OUR WHOLE CREW INKED UP, SUNBURNED, AND BUG-BIT.
SCARE THE [BLEEP] OUT OF THEM.
"YEAH, I'LL TAKE AN EXTRA SHOT OF ESPRESSO
"IN THAT VENTI LATTE, MOTHER [BLEEP]
"AND I AIN'T GONNA PAY FOR IT.
WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT THAT?"
GRACIAS.
WHAT EXACTLY DID THE GUIDEBOOK MEAN BY "GONER"?
[BLEEP]
WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE.
MORNING IN THE DARIéN, THE TINY JUNGLE VILLAGE OF CONDOTO.
[ LAUGHS ]
THE VILLAGE BUTCHER'S BEEN WORKING
FOR A COUPLE OF HOURS ALREADY,
PREPPING A PIG DOWN BY THE RIVER FOR TONIGHT'S FEAST.
ACTUALLY, THIS IS NEW YORK-STYLE.
MY UNCLE HERE, HE'S ALSO THE TOWN SURGEON.
BUT TODAY AIN'T FOR LOUNGING AND DRINKING BEER, UNFORTUNATELY.
HERNAN AND I ARE EMBARKING ON A TREK
INTO DEEP, UNFORGIVING JUNGLE.
AND HE PROMISES ME THAT IT'S GONNA BE WORTH MY WHILE.
Arauz: THERE IS A PRAYER THAT READS,
"WHEN YOU GO TO THE DARIéN,
"COMMEND YOURSELF TO THE *** MARY,
"FOR IN HER HANDS IS THE WAY IN
AND IN GOD'S IS THE WAY OUT."
IN 1854, AN AMERICAN EXPEDITION
ATTEMPTED TO HACK THROUGH THIS JUNGLE
LOOKING FOR A POTENTIAL CANAL ROUTE.
THEY WOUND UP LOST AND STARVING IN SHORT ORDER.
THEY WERE ULTIMATELY FORCED TO EAT THEIR DEAD
IN ORDER TO SURVIVE.
THIS IS JUNGLE, TONY, NOT THE FOREST.
YOU CAN TELL BECAUSE OF ALL THESE PLANTAIN-LIKE PLANTS.
A JUNGLE IS YOUNG FOREST -- FOREST COMING BACK.
Bourdain: RIGHT.
TAKE ABOUT 120 YEARS OF JUNGLE TO BECOME FOREST AGAIN.
WHAT WAS ADVERTISED AS A SHORT WALK
IS BECOMING A GRUELING COUPLE OF HOURS.
CHECK THIS OUT.
[ METAL CLANGS ]
WOW. HERE.
THIS IS THE BEST WATER YOU CAN DRINK.
IT'S TOTALLY PURE. IT'S FILTERED BY NATURE.
WE HACK OUR WAY MOSTLY UPHILL THROUGH MUD AND THORNS
AND ALL SORTS OF BITING CRITTERS.
THEY GOT SOME LEAF-CUTTER ANTS HERE.
THEY GOT THEIR WORK CUT OUT FOR THEM HERE.
STEP UP THE PACE, BOYS.
DID I MENTION THE HEAT?
[ SIGHS ]
IT'S DEVASTATING.
NO WIND OR BREEZE MOVES THE AIR AT ALL.
HUMIDITY -- IT'S LIKE TRYING TO BREATHE THROUGH SOUP.
[BLEEP]
THESE THORNS -- THIS IS ONE THING YOU SHOULD NOT GRAB,
EVEN IN DESPERATION.
TRY NOT TO CATCH THAT IN THE NUTS COMING DOWN.
AND FINALLY, THERE IT IS.
LOOK RIGHT HERE. LOOK AT THAT.
THAT IS ONE COOL VIEW.
RIGHT HERE, LITERALLY IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE,
TWO EMBERA VILLAGERS CARVE AWAY AT A SINGLE TREE
TO CREATE A PIRAGUA.
THE EMBERA ARE MASTERS
OF BOTH NAVIGATING AND CONSTRUCTING THESE VESSELS.
HOW LONG HAVE THEY BEEN WORKING ON THIS?
FOUR DAYS THEY'VE BEEN WORKING ON IT.
THEY DO IT IN THE DEEP WOODS
NEAR WHERE THEY CUT THE THING DOWN?
BECAUSE FROM HERE,
THEY CAN PUSH IT DOWN TO THE NEAREST SOURCE OF WATER.
A LOT OF WORK. A LOT OF WORK.
THAT SCENE THAT YOU ARE LOOKING AT --
IT COULD HAVE HAPPENED 500 YEARS AGO.
LOOK AT THE OLD MAN COVERED IN JAGUA
WITH HIS TRADITIONAL LOINCLOTH
AND HIS HAIR CUT IN THE OLD-FASHIONED WAY,
WORKING WITH PRIMITIVE TOOLS ON A DUGOUT
RIGHT HERE IN THE MIDDLE OF DARIéN.
BACK IN THE VILLAGE, THE LAST OF THE COLD BEERS,
AND THE VILLAGERS ARE CUTTING AND COOKING UP PORK
FOR A PARTY.
Arauz: LOOK AT THAT STEW.
YEAH, THAT'S LOOKING GOOD.
TASTE IT.
MMM.
GOOD STUFF?
THAT IS GOOD.
ROAST PORK, STEWED PORK, YUCCA, AND PLANTAINS.
I TAKE A SEAT WITH SOME NEW FRIENDS
WHILE THE ELDERS MAKE SURE EVERYONE GETS FED.
THAT LITTLE PIGGY IS FEEDING A LOT OF PEOPLE.
I FEEL LIKE I KNOW ALL THESE KIDS BY NOW.
I MEAN, NOT BY NAME, BUT...
YOU GOT THE FUNNY ONE...
THE PUSHY ONE...
GOOD?
BUENO?
...THE SHY ONE...
...AND THIS LITTLE ***.
I KNOW HIM. TROUBLE.
[ UP-TEMPO TRADITIONAL MUSIC PLAYS ]
THE LIGHT FADES, BUT THE PARTY KEEPS GOING,
ONE OF THOSE HAPPY TIMES WHEN, CAMERAS ROLLING OR NOT,
I'M GLAD TO BE WHERE I AM AND SEEING WHAT I'M SEEING.
FAR UP A RIVER, DEEP IN THE BUSH,
A LONG WAY FROM HOME,
MORE RANDOM ACTS OF GENEROSITY FROM STRANGERS
FROM A PLACE AND A CULTURE VERY DIFFERENT THAN MY OWN.