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(Anthony) WHAT'S GOING ON HERE?
I DIDN'T HAVE ANY IDEA
WHAT CROATIAN CUISINE WAS.
ZERO. I HAD NO PICTURE IN MY MIND.
SAN FRANCISCO, NEW YORK, OR PARIS--
THIS IS A GREAT MEAL.
IT'S THE FIRST TIME I'VE EVER HAD THAT ANYWHERE ON EARTH.
THIS IS WORLD-CLASS FOOD. THIS IS WORLD-CLASS WINE.
THIS IS WORLD-CLASS CHEESE.
THE NEXT BIG THING IS CROATIAN.
IF YOU HAVEN'T BEEN HERE, YOU'RE A (bleep) IDIOT.
I'M AN IDIOT.
(man) AAH, YEAH!
THAT'S RIGHT!
I WRITE. I TRAVEL.
I EAT, AND I'M HUNGRY FOR MORE.
♪ OOH, YOU'VE GOT TO ♪
♪ GET LOST ♪
♪ NO RESERVATIONS ♪
(Anthony) EVERYTHING WAS BEAUTIFUL IN CROATIA,
BUT PEOPLE GOT HURT.
THESE THINGS HAPPEN. YOU FIND A PLACE
WITH SO MUCH GOOD FOOD, SO MUCH GOOD WINE,
AND YOU WEREN'T EXPECTING IT. YOU WEREN'T PREPARED.
I KNEW VAGUELY, AS IT'S JUST A FEW HOURS DRIVE
FROM WHERE MY IN-LAWS LIVE IN ITALY,
THAT IT HAD BEEN PART OF ROME
OR PART OF THE VENETIAN EMPIRE WAY BACK,
THAT IT WAS PRETTY, BUT THAT WAS ABOUT IT.
WHAT CAN I SAY? I DIDN'T KNOW.
BUT I FOUND OUT.
(siren wailing)
BEFORE I CAME TO CROATIA,
MOST OF WHAT I KNEW WAS FROM REBECCA WEST
AND THIS.
24-HOUR CABLE NEWS.
A WAR THAT TOOK PLACE NEARLY TWO DECADES AGO.
ROMANS, VENETIANS, OTTOMANS
HAVE ALL LEFT THEIR INDELIBLE MARKS HERE.
IT WAS ONLY WITH THE BREAKUP OF THE FORMER YUGOSLAVIA,
THE WAR, THAT CROATIA FINALLY BECAME
AN INDEPENDENT NATION.
SO WHERE AM I?
(bell ringing)
THE MEDIEVAL CITY OF ROVINJ.
LEAVING ITS SHORES--
ONE OF MANY BOATS I FOUND MYSELF ON
DURING MY TIME IN CROATIA.
NO.
THIS IS PROPER, LIKE,
EARLY AUTUMN WEATHER.
TO BE HONEST WITH YOU,
IF YOU WANT TO REALLY ENJOY YOUR VACATION,
THIS IS THE PLACE WHERE YOU COME,
BECAUSE WE HAVE QUITE A FEW GOOD RESTAURANTS.
WE HAVE NICE HOTELS. IT'S A BEAUTIFUL AREA.
THIS GUY--MY GUIDE AND PARTNER IN CRIME
MATE JANKOVIC,
CHEF AND ALSO THE CHIEF JUDGE OF THE HIT SERIES
"MasterChef CROATIA."
THIS IS A VERY PEACEFUL AREA I WOULD SAY.
LATELY I'D BEEN HEARING IT WAS THE NEW RIVIERA--
MORE THAN 1,100 ISLANDS
AND 3,500-PLUS MILES OF COASTLINE,
A PLAYGROUND FOR THE NEWLY RICH.
DEEP BELOW THE SURFACE OF A LONG FJORD,
BAGS HANG LIKE DEAD GANGSTERS IN THE MURK.
OUT COMES THE HOOK.
A PULL AND UP THEY COME.
MUSSELS, BABY,
HARVESTED OLD-SCHOOL STYLE BY LOCAL FISHERMEN
LIKE EMIL SOSIC,
WHO GIVES US THE GRAND TOUR OF MOLLUSK ALLEY.
(Mate) FRESH, DIRECTLY FROM THE SEA.
BUT IT'S THE OLD WAY TO DO IT.
BUT THEY STILL DO IT BY HAND.
ALSO, THEY'VE GOT OYSTERS.
THE WATER HERE IS JUST RIGHT TO FARM THEM.
EVEN IN THE SUMMERTIME THERE'S NOBODY AROUND.
NOBODY COMES HERE.
THE SEA IS VERY, VERY CLEAN, OBVIOUSLY.
THE PERFECT BALANCE OF TEMPERATURE,
SALINITY, PURITY.
WELCOME TO TONY'S RAW BAR AND OYSTER SHACK.
PULL UP A CHAIR. DRINK SOME GRAPPA, A LITTLE WINE.
LEAN BACK. SUCK DOWN SOME BIVALVES.
CRANK UP THE "CRAZY TRAIN."
TIME TO GET (bleep) UP
AND NOT FOR THE LAST TIME, FOR SURE.
THAT'S A GOOD OYSTER.
THEY'RE KEEPING ALL THE SEA INSIDE THEM. MMM.
MM-HMM.
SO WHAT ARE YOU DOING WITH THE MUSSELS?
WHAT DO YOU MEAN, "WE"?
(laughs)
I'M GONNA PUT ON OLIVE OIL, BUT SOME GARLIC INSIDE,
PUT SOME BREADCRUMBS.
YEAH.
POUR SOME WHITE WINE.
THAT'S IT.
WE'LL LEAVE THEM TO OPEN, TO RELEASE ALL THE JUICES,
THEN SOME CHOPPED PARSLEY ON TOP.
VERY SIMPLE. THE INGREDIENT HAS TO TELL A STORY.
CHEERS.
YES.
YEAH.
THE SAUCE.
THOSE BREADCRUMBS REALLY THICKENED THAT UP, HUH?
THIS TYPE OF DISHES--
WE CALL IT THE TRIUMPH OF SIMPLICITY.
YOU COULD TRAIN A CHIMPANZEE TO DO THIS...
EVENTUALLY, RIGHT?
PERSONALLY, I WOULDN'T WANT A CHIMPANZEE'S HAIRY PAWS
NO, NO.
(insect buzzing)
THERE'S A BEE AROUND ME,
REALLY?
I'M AFRAID OF CLOWNS.
CLOWNS, NURSE'S SHOES,
MIMES?
YEAH.
YEAH.
OH, YEAH.
IT'S LIKE, WHAT THE (bleep) HAPPENED TO THAT GUYS' HEAD?
IT LOOKED LIKE AN OPOSSUM DIED ON HIS (bleep) HEAD.
AN OPOSSUM WAS TRYING TO (bleep) HIS HEAD
AND DIED IN MID-ACT.
ANYWAY, THOSE WERE GOOD MUSSELS.
NICE, NICE. THAT'S A TELEVISION PROFESSIONAL.
BRINGING US BACK TO THE SUBJECT AT HAND.
WOULD THERE BE A NAPKIN AVAILABLE?
THANK YOU.
IT'S AN EXCELLENT RESTAURANT.
(dog barking)
(panting)
MEET SHATSI THE WONDER POOCH.
OKAY, THAT'S NOT HIS REAL NAME,
BUT HE IS A WONDERFUL DOG.
SHATSI CAN DO SOMETHING THAT NO HUMAN ALIVE
THAT I KNOW ABOUT CAN DO.
HE CAN SNIFF OUT THE RARE
AND HIGHLY PRIZED WHITE TRUFFLE OF ISTRIA.
THIS ELUSIVE AND DELICIOUS FUNGUS
HIDES SOMETIMES BENEATH THE FOREST FLOOR
AND GOES FOR ABOUT $55 AN OUNCE.
(Anthony) SO TELL ME ABOUT CROATIAN TRUFFLES.
SO THIS FOREST, UH,
IS THE BIGGEST AREA
OF WHITE TRUFFLES IN THE WORLD.
CLAUDIO IS THE PROPRIETOR OF A LOCAL KONOBA, OR TAVERN.
HIS MOM GEORGIA AND WONDER-MUTT HERE
ARE LEGENDS IN THE TRUFFLE-SEEKING WORLD.
(Anthony) WHO OWNS THE FOREST?
THE FOREST IS OWNED BY THE STATE.
ANYONE CAN COME HERE AND TRY TO FIND THEM.
THE ONLY THING THAT WE KNOW
IS THAT THEY ARE GROWING AROUND OAKS.
BUT YOU DON'T KNOW HOW,
DON'T KNOW WHY.
BUT SHATSI HERE IS A TRUFFLE-SEEKING MISSILE,
A 4-LEGGED DRONE EQUIPPED WITH THE LATEST
IN HIGH-TECH DEVICES FROM OUR TECH NERDS--
DOGGY CAM.
WITH THIS FOOTAGE, WE CAN ACTUALLY WATCH HIM AT WORK.
INCREDIBLE, HUH?
UNLIKE MUSHROOMS, YOU CAN'T REALLY FARM THEM.
BUT IT'S JUST IMPOSSIBLE.
INVESTORS HAVE MOVED THE EARTH FROM FRANCE, THE TREES.
THEY'VE TRIED TO REPRODUCE THE CONDITIONS IN EVERY WAY.
NO WAY.
UH, MAYBE IT'S BETTER LIKE THIS.
IF YOU FIND A WAY HOW TO GROW THEM,
THEN PROBABLY THEY WILL NOT BE SO INTERESTING ANYMORE.
(laughing)
THE ODDS WERE STACKED AGAINST US.
OUR STUNT TRUFFLE WAS PREPARED, READY TO GO.
BUT NOBLE SHATSI DIDN'T LET US DOWN.
OH, SHE FOUND IT. SHE FOUND A TRUFFLE.
WE NEVER GET THAT LUCKY ON THIS SHOW.
BELIEVE ME.
WE FOUND A REAL LIVE WHITE TRUFFLE ON CAMERA
AS WE ROLLED.
(dramatic music playing)
(Anthony) OH. (laughs)
UNBELIEVABLE.
(Claudio) WE CAN EAT IT.
NEVER ARE WE SO LUCKY. GOOD DOG.
I'M BUYING--I'M BUYING HIM A PORK CHOP.
FROM NOW ON I SHALL CALL YOU "EMMY."
LET'S EAT SOME TRUFFLES.
(wind rushing)
THE NAME OF THE TOWN IS MOTOVUN,
BUILT BY THE VENETIANS IN THE 14th CENTURY
ON A MOUNTAINTOP.
YOU HAVE TO PARK AT THE BOTTOM
AND HIKE UP.
IT'S WORTH IT,
BECAUSE THIS IS TRUFFLE TOWN.
CLAUDIO'S PLACE, MONDO KONOBA,
DOES THEM ALL SORTS OF WAYS
AND FOR THE PRICE OF WHAT YOU PAY
FOR SOME BURGERS IN MANHATTAN.
THIS OMELET IS, UH, NORMAL.
NICE OMELET, HUH?
LARDED WITH A POSITIVELY LUXURIOUS FISTFUL
OF WHITE TRUFFLES
PERFUMING THOSE FLUFFY EGGS
WITH THEIR DEEP-EARTH MAGIC.
MADE SAUSAGE-- SAUSAGE INSIDE.
YES.
OLIVE OIL, OF COURSE, TRUFFLES.
EVEN HERE IT'S STILL A LUXURY, RIGHT?
KIDS IN THIS AREA DON'T GROW UP, LIKE,
"OH, TRUFFLES AGAIN? MOM."
NO. SO THAT'S NOT-- IT'S NOT A PROBLEM.
THE PROBLEM WITH TRUFFLES--
YOU KNOW, IN FIVE DAYS YOU HAVE TO USE IT,
BECAUSE IF NOT THEY JUST GO BAD.
MORE TRUFFLES? OH, OKAY.
OH, WOW, LOOK AT THIS.
MM-HMM.
OLIVE OIL, BUTTER,
A LITTLE BIT OF ISTRIAN HAM
THAT IS PRETTY DAMN LUXURIOUS.
LESSON HERE-- THERE'S TRUFFLE OIL,
AND THEN THERE'S TRUFFLES.
IF I HAVE A MISSION IN LIFE,
IT'S TO LET PEOPLE KNOW THAT TRUFFLE OIL IS (bleep).
TRUFFLE OIL-- CAN I SAY IT?
IT'S (bleep).
REALLY HAS NO RELATIONSHIP TO A TRUFFLE.
I WOULD SAY THAT IF YOU FIND IT IN A RESTAURANT,
MM-HMM.
AS FOR CLAUDIO'S MISSION...
IT'S VERY OLD. IT'S VERY SIMPLE.
IT'S JUST ENOUGH TO DO WHAT MY GRANDMOTHER WAS DOING,
AND THIS-- THIS IS IT.
CHEERS.
♪♪♪
(man) ♪ NO RESERVATIONS ♪
♪♪♪
ANOTHER DAY IN CROATIA, ANOTHER BOAT.
IT'S COLD OUT HERE, REAL COLD.
DANILO SKOKO IS A FISHERMAN,
AND HE TAKES US OUT ON THE WATER
IN SEARCH OF, WELL, LUNCH.
THE WATER'S PRETTY CALM, BUT THE WIND...
THEY CALL IT THE BORA,
CROATIA'S LEGENDARY NORTHERN WIND,
GOOD FOR CURING PORK.
FOR A COMFORTABLE DAY ON THE WATER?
NOT SO MUCH.
(man) 10, 20 KNOTS, AND IN A MOMENT, 50...
(imitates rushing) THEN STOP.
DANILO'S SON DAVID IS A CHEF,
BUT NOT UNFAMILIAR
WITH THE DIFFICULT BUSINESS OF FISHING.
AND THE WIND IS GETTING STRONGER.
(Mate) (bleep), YEAH.
NOW YOU'RE TALKING.
♪♪♪
YEAH.
THEY ARE PULLING IT FOR THE PAST 20 MINUTES.
(David) A KILOMETER.
THIS IS 1 KILOMETER.
AND ALTOGETHER IT'S 3 KILOMETERS.
IF YOU WANT TO CATCH THE FISH,
YOU HAVE TO PUT A LOT OF NET.
THE FIRST ROUND!
THE FIRST ROUND. IS THERE A SECOND ONE?
(David) TWO MORE TO GO.
(laughing)
HOPEFULLY HE'S JOKING, RIGHT?
WHAT ARE YOU THINKING ABOUT? THIS IS FISHING.
OH, YES.
YEAH. YEAH.
(laughs)
IT ISN'T, NO.
THE MONEY CATCH AROUND HERE IS SEA BASS.
BUT THAT'S NOT WHAT WE'RE GOING FOR.
WE'RE LOOKING FOR TRASH, WHAT COMES UP WITH THE NETS,
THE STUFF THAT FISHING FOLK HAVE LEARNED TO WORK WITH
AFTER THE SO-CALLED GOOD STUFF IS SOLD AND GONE.
THIS GUY. I LOVE THIS GUY.
BOTTOM-DWELLERS,
SEVERAL SMALL SHARKS, RED MULLET, BONITO.
IT'S REALLY NOT MY THING.
NOW I KNOW WHY YOU LIKE COOKING MORE THAN FISHING.
THE FAMILY RESTAURANT IS IN NEARBY BAJNOLE,
A PLACE SUDDENLY,
ON THE STRENGTH OF A RECENT "MasterChef" APPEARANCE,
VERY POPULAR FOR WHAT THEY'VE BEEN DOING ALL ALONG.
DAVID AND HIS MOTHER ALDA MAKE MAGIC
WITH WHAT UNTIL RECENTLY NOBODY WANTED.
LET'S GET A LITTLE BACKSTORY HERE.
FOUR GENERATIONS OF FISHING.
WHAT YOU SERVE HERE ARE VERY TRADITIONAL FISH
THAT FISHERMEN USED TO HAVE TO EAT,
TRASH FISH.
IN THE OLD DAYS, THE FISHERMEN WOULD KEEP THIS FOR THEMSELVES.
THEY'D MAKE SOMETHING REALLY, REALLY DELICIOUS OUT OF IT.
CORRECT ME IF I'M WRONG. THIS (bleep) COMES ALONG,
PUTS YOU ON TV, AND NOW--
NOW YOU'RE--YOU'RE PACKED WITH PEOPLE THE ENTIRE SUMMER.
YOU MONSTER.
YEAH, WELL, YOU KNOW, HIS APPEARANCE
RIGHT.
SOME THINGS WE ARE COOKING FOR TEN YEARS.
NOW IT'S BETTER.
EVERYBODY LIKE IT MORE.
EVERYBODY UNDERSTANDS NOW THAT THE FISHERMEN
WERE EATING GOOD (bleep) ALL ALONG.
OOH. THAT'S THE BONITO?
THESE TWO ARE BONITO.
THESE YOU ROLL UP INTO, LIKE, A ROULADE.
ON ONE SIDE.
IT'S THE THIN PART.
RIGHT.
SESAME GIVES IT THIS KIND OF A TOASTY FLAVOR.
AND THIS IS THE...
THE LOBSTER TAIL.
LIGHTLY DRESSED RAW LOBSTER,
SO FRESH IT'S STILL MOVING.
***'S LOOKING AT YOU WHILE YOU EAT ITS LOWER HALF.
YEAH, LOBSTER'S NOT EXACTLY TRASH FISH,
BUT LIVE A LITTLE, RIGHT?
BUT THE PâTé-- MY GOD.
THAT'S A DISCOVERY FOR ME.
SHARK LIVER ON THE OTHER HAND--
NOT A LOT OF CALL FOR THAT,
BUT THERE SHOULD BE. IT'S REAL GOOD.
THE SHARK LIVER IS VERY SOFT.
IT'S NOT EASY TO HAVE IT--
TO--TO COOK IT AND BRAISE WHOLE,
SO IT'S, LIKE, MELTING.
SO WE FRY IT WITH A LITTLE BIT OF ONIONS,
MM-HMM.
TOOK OUT THE--THE OIL.
WE CUT IT WITH THE BUTTER,
MM-HMM, GOT A RICHNESS.
FISH LIVER IS THE NEXT BIG THING.
WE'RE GONNA HAVE SHARKS BEING FED
IN ORDER TO EXPAND THE LIVER.
AND MONKFISH TRIPE-- THAT SOUNDS ABOUT AS APPETIZING
AS GETTING INTO AN ELEVATOR
AFTER THE SITUATION HOT-BOXED IT.
BUT YOU KNOW WHAT? IT'S AWESOME.
SO WAIT A MINUTE. WHAT'S IN THE SAUCE?
A LOT OF DIFFERENT MEDITERRANEAN HERBS,
A LITTLE BIT OF TOMATOES, GARLIC, ONIONS,
IT'S GOOD (bleep).
THAT IS GOOD, GOOD, GOOD.
IT TASTES LIKE TRIPES, BUT IT'S SOFTER.
IT IS. IT IS.
AND IT DOESN'T SEEM TO BE TRIPES.
IT DOESN'T HAVE THIS-- THIS TASTE,
THIS STRONG, HMM, WET DOG.
(whines)
THIS AUTOMATICALLY GOES TO MY TOP FIVE FISH DISHES
(voices overlapping)
IT'S THE FIRST TIME I'VE EVER HAD THAT ANYWHERE ON EARTH.
WELL, DUDE, YOU JUST--
YOU JUST SCORED BIG-TIME.
I'VE NEVER HAD FISH TRIPES.
NEVER HAD--
FISH BRAINS.
GOD, THAT'S GOOD.
BRINGING ENLIGHTENMENT TO THE MASSES.
♪♪♪
(man) ♪ NO RESERVATIONS ♪
♪♪♪
MOM, WHERE DOES TUNA COME FROM?
WELL, THESE DAYS,
IF YOU'RE TALKING HIGH-GRADE, SUSHI-QUALITY BLUEFIN TUNA,
ON THE ENDANGERED LIST IN MOST COUNTRIES,
IT VERY WELL MIGHT COME FROM A FARM LIKE THIS ONE,
AN UNDERWATER FARM WHERE SUSHI
ON THE HOOF, SO TO SPEAK, SWIMS HAPPILY BY,
FROLICKING JUST BELOW,
RISING TO THE SURFACE TO SNACK
ON FRESH ALL-ORGANIC CHOW.
I WISH I WAS TRIPPING. THAT WOULD BE KINDA COOL.
BIG (bleep) LOOMING UP AT YOU FROM BELOW,
THE CREW THROWS A COUPLE OF SHOVELS
OF TUNA FOOD AROUND YOU,
AND SUDDENLY YOU'RE, LIKE, BEING NIBBLED ON
FROM ALL SIDES?
OKAY, MAYBE NOT.
DO TUNA HAVE PENISES? DO WE KNOW?
(man) YOU'LL FIND OUT. (laughs)
OH, THAT'S NOT GOOD.
I'M NOT GETTING ANALLY PENETRATED
BY A (bleep) TUNA.
OH, NO, NO, IT'S FINISHED.
YEAH. IT'S BASICALLY IN JULY, AUGUST.
THIS IS óLI, OVERSEEING OPERATIONS HERE
OFF THE CROATIAN COAST NEAR ZADAR.
AND ONLY ONE OF A WORLDWIDE NETWORK
OF HIGH-QUALITY TUNA FARMS,
HUNDREDS OF MILLIONS OF DOLLARS OF SUSHI
SWIMMING AROUND IN THOSE NETS.
AND I SAY SUSHI, BECAUSE THIS FISH
IS NOT INTENDED TO END UP IN A CAN,
MIXED WITH MAYONNAISE, OR SPREAD ON WHITE BREAD.
WHERE DO THEY SPAWN?
IS THERE A SEPARATE FACILITY FOR THEM TO ALL GET TOGETHER
AND DO THEIR THING?
YEAH, EXACTLY.
YEAH.
SOMETHING LIKE THAT. WE WON'T TELL YOU ALL THE SECRETS.
THE HOLY GRAIL IN THE TUNA BUSINESS
YEAH?
AND WE'VE BEEN ABLE TO DO IT FOR THE LAST THREE YEARS.
I'M TELLING YOU, BARRY WHITE, ***, AND RED BULL...
(claps hands)
BIGGEST ONE WE'VE TAKEN OUT OF A CAGE IS 1,100 POUNDS.
(Anthony) 1,100 POUNDS.
YEAH, YEAH.
300, 400.
300, 400--WHOA. AND THEY'LL BID UP TO--
I MEAN, WHAT, $75,000, $85,000
FOR A FISH SOMETIMES.
MILLIONS OF DOLLARS OF FISH.
VARIOUS--VARIOUS TYPES OF FISH HERE, RIGHT?
THIS IS FIT FOR US TO EAT AS WELL.
SOMETIMES, YOU KNOW,
IF MY CUSTOMERS DON'T BELIEVE ME,
WE SLICE, YOU KNOW, SOME OF THESE
AND EAT IT SASHIMI AS WELL.
THESE CREATURES ARE BALLISTICALLY DESIGNED
FROM BIRTH FOR MAXIMUM DELICIOUSNESS,
TOP PRICE.
AND WHAT THAT MEANS IS THEY HAVE TO BE HAPPY FISH,
STRESS-FREE FISH, HEALTHY, WELL FED,
AND PLEASINGLY PLUMP.
HERE'S THE PROCEDURE AS I UNDERSTAND IT.
YOU HOOK 'EM IN THE EYEBALLS,
YEAH. THAT'S WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO.
RIGHT THERE. OUT. OLD-SCHOOL (bleep).
TIME TO HAUL SOME LUNCH ON BOARD.
DON'T HOOK MY NUT SACK WITH THAT, UH--
(Mate) NO PROBLEM, MAN.
(all) WHOA!
(man) GRAB HIM!
(Mate) I HAVE IT.
YEAH, MAN.
I DID NOT LIKE THE WAY THAT TUNA WAS LOOKING AT ME.
WHEN YOU'RE TALKING ABOUT FISH
POTENTIALLY WORTH STAGGERING AMOUNTS OF MONEY PER POUND,
UNDERSTAND IT'S WELL WORTH
MAKING ABSOLUTELY SURE THE FLESH IS AT ITS BEST.
HOW DO YOU DO THAT?
UNHAPPY, FREAKED-OUT ANIMALS RELEASE ENZYMES INTO MEAT
THAT AFFECTS THEIR DELICIOUSNESS.
(man) YEP. JUST STRIKE.
YEP.
A SPIKE IS INSERTED
DIRECTLY INTO THE FISH'S HIND BRAIN,
PARALYZING AND QUICKLY KILLING IT,
KIND OF LIKE AN EPIDURAL,
KNOWN AS IKIJIME IN JAPAN.
THAT PUTS HIM INTO SUSPENDED ANIMATION.
THEN YOU RUN A WIRE UP ITS SPINE.
THIS CAUSES ALL THE BLOOD TO FLOOD INTO THE GUT...
(man) ALL THE WAY! UP, UP, UP.
PRODUCING BETTER COLOR AND FLAVOR IN THE FISH.
THAT WAS SOME HIGH-CLASS SURGERY.
THANKS, MAN.
(Mate) DAMN, THIS LOOKS GOOD.
(Anthony) THAT'S PRETTY, RIGHT?
LUNCH.
LOOK AT THIS. SARDINES,
ANCHOVIES WITH LEMON
AND THE AMAZING SPICY CROATIAN OLIVE OIL
I'M ALREADY ADDICTED TO,
AND SOME NICE, THICK GRILLED TUNA STEAKS,
BUT MOST IMPORTANTLY--THIS.
IT'S A CUT FROM THE BELLY.
THAT'S THE PART WITH MOST FLAVOR.
GENERALLY SPEAKING,
YOU WANT TO EITHER BLAST-FREEZE YOUR TUNA FOR A BIT
TO CURE IT,
WHICH IS WHAT THE MAJORITY OF SUSHI BARS PROBABLY DO,
OR AT LEAST WAIT A COUPLE OF DAYS FROM NOW
TO AGE IT TO PERFECTION.
BUT THIS--THIS IS A DIFFERENT THING ENTIRELY.
THAT'S DAMN GOOD.
YEAH.
FATTY, BEAUTIFUL.
FRESH OUT OF THE WATER MAY NOT ALWAYS BE THE BEST THING,
BUT IT IS CERTAINLY A VERY, VERY GOOD THING TODAY.
(óLI) SOY AND WASABI ARE NOT--
NOT A LOT OF PEOPLE EMBRACE--USE THAT.
YEAH? MAYBE THEY SHOULD.
DEFINITELY. GOOD STUFF.
THE JAPANESE WILL BE HAPPY,
AND WE WILL BE EVEN HAPPIER
IF WE HAVE A LITTLE TASTE OF RED WINE WITH THIS.
YEAH.
BECAUSE YOU KNOW, ACTUALLY,
THAT'S, LIKE, PRETTY MEATY AND STEAK-LIKE.
YEAH, EXACTLY. THIS IS WHAT THE UMAMI IS ALL ABOUT.
I'VE NEVER HAD TUNA THIS FRESH. VERY SIMPLE.
I THINK NOBODY CAN COMPLAIN ABOUT OUR PRIVILEGES HERE.
NO.
YEAH, IT'S A LIFE OF DEPRIVATION OUT HERE.
WELL, GUYS...
SUCCESSFUL DAY OF FISHING.
♪♪♪
WANT TO KNOW WHAT I REALLY THINK?
BE SURE TO CHECK OUT MY WEB SITE AT travelchannel.com.
(man) ♪ NO RESERVATIONS ♪
THESE OLIVE TREES
ARE A THOUSAND YEARS OLD.
OTHERWISE, THE ISLAND OF PAG,
A SHORT FERRY RIDE FROM THE MAINLAND,
LOOKS AROUND THE EDGES LIKE A MOONSCAPE.
THIS PLACE WAS ALMOST ENTIRELY DENUDED OF TREES
BY THE VENETIANS LONG, LONG AGO.
THEY STRIPPED THIS AREA OF WOOD TO BUILD VENICE.
(beeping)
(Anthony) AND WHAT IS THAT?
HAND BRAKE.
THERE YOU GO. (bleep) LOUSY DRIVER.
(bleep)
I BROUGHT THE HACKSAW AND THE QUICKLIME,
SO IF WE HIT ANYBODY,
(laughs)
IT IS. IT'S VERY, VERY PRETTY.
30 OR 40 YEARS AGO,
EVERYBODY WAS LIVING OFF CHEESE MAKING, LAMB,
RIGHT.
(bleating)
AND NOW, YOU KNOW, THIS IS THE ISLAND
REALLY?
UH, AN ENTIRE BEACH LOAD OF HEAVING,
YEAH.
YEAH, NO.
YEAH.
THIS PLACE, HOTEL BOSKINAC,
TUCKED AWAY ON A HILL
LOOKING OUT OVER ALL THIS--
WELL, IT'S AN AMAZING, CRAZY-*** SPOT,
ONE OF THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN THE COUNTRY,
AND ALL THE WAY OUT HERE.
WINEMAKER AND CHEF BORIS SULJIC OWNS THE PLACE.
AND TODAY HE'S MAKING A TRADITIONAL CROATIAN MEAL.
THE NATIONAL TABLOIDS HAVE BEEN KEEPING UP WITH OUR ADVENTURES.
I DON'T KNOW WHERE THEY GET THEIR INFORMATION.
"SUPERNATURALLY ENDOWED AMERICAN CHEF
YEAH.
"SAID TO BE POSSESSED OF A FREAKISHLY LARGE ***,
"HIS CULINARY SKILLS OFTEN MENTIONED
"IN THE SAME BREATH AS THOMAS KELLER,
ALAIN DUCASSE..."
I LOVE THIS COUNTRY.
"LINKED WITH LINDSAY LOHAN, KIM KARDASHIAN,
AND SNOOKI FROM 'JERSEY SHORE.'"
WHAT KIND OF YELLOW JOURNALISM DO YOU HAVE HERE?
I LIKE THE BIT ABOUT THE FREAKISHLY LARGE ***.
AT LEAST THEY GOT THAT RIGHT.
WHOA.
THAT LOOKS AWESOME.
OCTOPUS STEWED IN A CLAY POT WITH TOMATOES,
GARLIC, POTATOES, AND WHITE WINE.
AND THIS IS MADE IN CLAY.
YEAH.
MMM. THAT'S SOME GOOD OCTO, MAN.
LAMB TRIPE.
I KNOW, IT'S LIKE TRIPE-O-RAMA, THIS SHOW.
A THEME EMERGING PERHAPS? NAH, JUST LUCKY, I GUESS.
YEAH.
SIMMERED WITH SHALLOTS, PANCETTA, AND CARROT
UNTIL MELLOW AND TENDER.
A LITTLE LOCAL CHEESE, SOME PARSLEY,
AND THERE YOU GO.
DELICIOUSNESS.
MM-HMM.
OR THE BEST THING IN THE WORLD.
YEAH.
THIS IS, LIKE, THE BEST TRIPES I'VE EVER HAD.
OH, CHECK THIS OUT.
I DON'T HAVE TO SMELL IT. I DON'T HAVE TO TASTE IT.
I TELL YOU ALREADY IT'S GREAT.
IT'S EVERYTHING I LOVE ABOUT FOOD.
YEAH.
IT'S FUNNY, 'CAUSE THE CHEF-- HE CALLED IT GOULASH.
"GOULASH" IS THE TERM THAT WE USE FOR THOSE STEWS,
RIGHT.
AND THIS IS--AGAIN, THIS IS REALLY OLD-SCHOOL.
THAT'S IT.
BUT I DON'T KNOW. IT'S ALWAYS A CHEF'S ARGUMENT.
WHAT IS REALLY CROATIAN?
LIKE, DO YOU WANT TO DO SOMETHING THAT'S BEEN HERE
FOR, LIKE, A THOUSAND YEARS?
I THINK THAT'S (bleep).
EXACTLY.
OH, YEAH.
IT'S DRIED OCTOPUS FRITAJA.
IT'S LIKE A FREAKISHLY GOOD OMELET.
AND YOU HAVE SOME POTATOES AND BEANS.
AND YOU HAVE SOME WILD ASPARAGUS
WITH BOILED EGGS AND ARUGULA.
HOW TRADITIONAL ARE THESE FLAVORS ON THIS PLATE?
THIS IS AS TRADITIONAL AS IT GETS.
MMM, IT'S THE BEST PLATE OF FOOD I'VE HAD IN CROATIA SO FAR.
YEP.
YOU KNOW, IF YOU LIKE ITALIAN FOOD,
YOU ARE ALREADY 90% OF THE WAY
TOWARDS REALLY DIGGING
YEAH.
THIS IS GASTRONOMICALLY
PROBABLY THE MOST INTERESTING PLACE,
ISLAND-WISE, IN CROATIA. IT'S VERY RUSTIC.
LIKE, YOU HAVE EVERYTHING
WITHIN A 150-METER REACH.
THE WINE IS FROM RIGHT OVER THERE.
YOU HAVE AN OCTOPUS FROM HERE
TO THE BEANS, THE EGGS.
WE'RE DRINKING SOME MONSTER WINES, BY THE WAY,
SOME OF THE BEST IN THE COUNTRY,
WHICH IS SAYING SOMETHING, BELIEVE ME.
YEAH.
IT IS. THIS IS A CAB-MERLOT.
AND THIS IS CONSIDERED TO BE CROATIA'S TOP RED WINE.
THIS THE TYPE OF WINE I WANT TO DRINK
YEAH, ME, TOO.
AND BY THE TIME WE GET THIS SELECTION OF PAG CHEESES,
ALL MADE FROM THE MILK OF THESE HAPPY SHEEP
WHO'VE BEEN GRAZING
ON UNIQUELY SALTY FROM THE SEA HERBS AND GRASSES,
WE ARE PRETTY (bleep) DAMN HAPPY.
OH, WOW.
I'M HITTING THAT CHEESE HARD.
(Boris) THREE DIFFERENT AGED CHEESE, OUR CHEESE...
AND FOUR DIFFERENT YOUNG.
LET'S EAT SOME.
LOOK AT THAT CRYSTALLIZATION IN THERE.
OKAY, THIS IS THE FIG MARMALADE,
AND THIS IS THE GRAPE MARMALADE
WITH A LITTLE BIT OF HONEY.
OLIVE OIL.
NICE.
OH, YEAH.
(whispering) EAT THAT (bleep) CHEESE.
EAT THAT (bleep) CHEESE.
(normal voice) MMM. THIS IS WORLD-CLASS FOOD.
THIS IS WORLD-CLASS WINE. THIS IS WORLD-CLASS CHEESE.
IT WAS (bleep) AWESOME FROM THE SECOND WE SAT DOWN
THE THING IS THAT IT'S STILL NOT A WORLD-CLASS DESTINATION.
BUT I'LL TELL YOU HONESTLY, IF YOU'RE--
IF YOU LIKE FOOD, AND YOU HAVEN'T COME HERE TO EAT,
YOU'RE REALLY MISSING THE (bleep) BOAT.
♪♪♪
(man) ♪ NO RESERVATIONS ♪
(glass clinking)
♪♪♪
(birds squawking)
THAT'S GOD TALKING.
OH. OH, THAT'S NICE.
FASTER, BETTER, STRONGER WITH THE WINE.
THERE'S NO GOOD MAN OR GOOD DECISION
WITHOUT THE GOOD WINE.
BIBICH WINERY. PROPRIETOR ALEN BIBIC.
THE WINE IS THE BEST FRIEND OF THE MAN.
MY--MY GRANDFATHER USED TO DRINK
AT LEAST 5 LITERS OF WINE EVERY DAY.
5 LITERS OF WINE EVERY DAY.
I WANT TO BE YOUR GRANDFATHER RIGHT NOW.
WHY, OH, WHY IS THERE SO MUCH
AMAZING WINE IN THIS COUNTRY?
I WANT TO BATHE IN THIS.
I WOULD LIKE TO FROLIC IN THIS WINE.
(laughing)
THE VILLAGE OF PLASKI SITS HIGH ABOVE SKRADIN,
A QUIET FISHING HAMLET.
BUT SIGNIFICANTLY, IT SHARES THE SAME LATITUDE
AS TUSCANY ACROSS THE ADRIATIC.
IT'S HERE AT THE BIBIC FAMILY WINERY
THAT IT ALL COMES HOME FOR ME--
THE FOOD, THE WINE, THE WHOLE THING.
MY FAMILY HAS BEEN HERE FOR CENTURIES.
AND WE ARE MAKING THE WINE FOR--
AT LEAST FIVE CENTURIES AGO WE STARTED.
YES.
VERY GOOD. IT'S A VERY SPECIAL AREA.
IT'S MEDITERRANEAN, TRUE MEDITERRANEAN,
WITH LOTS OF SUN.
YOU HAVE LOTS OF SUGAR IN YOUR GRAPE.
WE ARE ON 220 METERS ABOVE THE SEA.
RIGHT? AND THE MOUNTAINS ARE BEHIND.
RIGHT.
AND WE KEEP ACIDITY AND AROMAS IN WINE.
SO IT'S A REALLY, REALLY GOOD PLACE.
NOW I-I SAW SIGNS THERE ARE STILL LAND MINES
YES.
WE WERE ON THE, LIKE, FRONT, YOU KNOW,
YOU'RE MAKING WINE,
PART OF THE FAMILY TRADITION FOR FIVE CENTURIES.
SUDDENLY WAR BREAKS OUT. WHAT DID YOU DO?
AT THAT TIME WE LOSE EVERYTHING, YOU KNOW,
BECAUSE IT WAS OCCUPIED AREA.
I MEAN, THESE ARE PEOPLE YOU'VE GONE TO SCHOOL WITH.
YES.
SUDDENLY THEY'RE YOU'RE BLOOD ENEMY.
IT IS REALLY HARD TO EXPLAIN.
I REALLY DON'T WANT TO TALK ABOUT THE WAR.
IT IS STUPID THING, AND WE'RE--
AFTER THE WAR WAS ENDED, WE GO BACK HOME.
(Mate) DESTROYED.
AND WE STARTED TO REBUILDING.
WE WERE REPLANTING.
AND WE DO THE THINGS WE KNOW HOW TO DO,
MAKING WINE AND LIVE GOOD LIFE.
WE CANNOT DO OTHER THING.
WHAT'S GOING ON HERE?
THE OYSTERS FROM SKRADIN.
...FOAM, ICED LEMON--LEMON DUST.
ROE FROM TROUT,
GRANITA OF SMOKED TROUT WITH CUCUMBER SORBET.
THIS IS A VERY, VERY, VERY CLASSIC COMBINATION OF FLAVORS.
DEBIT. REALLY TRADITIONAL AND VERY LOCAL...
VERY CRISP, VERY CLEAN.
SCALLOPS.
AND WHAT'S THAT ON TOP?
HOLY CRAP, THAT'S GOOD.
YOU KNOW, IF YOU TOLD ME BEFOREHAND
NO.
YOU AS A CHEF-- YOU WOULD SAY NO.
(man) FOR THE WINE WE HAVE BIBICH R5.
IT'S A BLEND OF FIVE DIFFERENT VARIETIES...
(speaking indistinctly)
THIS IS GOOD.
VANILLA TOASTED TASTE.
SO IS THIS A RESTAURANT?
THIS IS THE WINERY.
WE ARE NOT RESTAURANT. WE ARE NOT OPEN FOR THE GUESTS.
WELL, THIS IS SHAPING UP TO BE
THE BEST RESTAURANT MEAL THAT NEVER WAS.
ALEN'S WIFE VESNA,
WHO JUST HAPPENS TO BE A TRAINED CHEF,
THROWS TOGETHER A LITTLE NOT-SO-IMPROMPTU
12-COURSE MEAL OF EPIC QUALITY
ACCOMPANIED BY EQUALLY EPIC WINES.
RIGHT.
THE FOOD IS COMMITTED TO THE WINE.
WHOA, WHOA, WHOA, HOLD ON HERE. WAIT A MINUTE.
HOMEMADE SMOKED YOGURT WITH CARAMEL SALT
DO YOU HAVE A YOGURT CULTURE IN THIS COUNTRY?
(Mate) ABSOLUTELY. ABSOLUTELY.
BECAUSE YOU NEVER WANT TO WAKE UP FOR BREAKFAST.
(laughing) IT'S VERY SIMPLE.
OKAY, THIS ONE IS VERY SPECIAL.
IT'S MADE WITH OLIVE OIL AND LOTS OF LEMON.
WHERE'S THE SMOKE COMING FROM?
WE PUT IT UNDER--UNDER THE FIRE OF A JUNIPER TREE.
GREAT. GREAT. GREAT.
BUT THIS STUFF, MY FRIENDS...
IF YOU KNOW ME AT ALL,
YOU KNOW THAT IT'S ALL ABOUT THIS.
LOOK AT THIS.
SLOW, SLOW, SLOWLY SIMMERING RAGU OF VEAL
ALONG WITH SEVERAL OTHER CUTS THAT WILL REMAIN SECRET.
THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON ALL DAY,
SINCE BEFORE SUNRISE,
CAREFULLY TENDED AND STIRRED CONSTANTLY.
THEN THE RICE, MORE GENTLE, CAREFUL STIRRING,
COOKED TO JUST RIGHT.
A SPRINKLING OF CHEESE
FROM THE ISLAND OF PAG, OF COURSE,
AND THE SCENT COMING OFF THIS THING FILLS THE YARD,
DRIVING ANYTHING, MAN AND BEAST ALIKE,
MAD WITH DESIRE.
(gasps)
(bleep), THAT'S GOOD.
HOLY (bleep), IS THAT GOOD.
HOLY (bleep), THAT'S GOOD.
OH, (bleep), THAT'S GOOD.
(bleep) ME BLIND.
(bleep) ME BLIND, YES.
SO THIS IS SKRADIN RISOTTO.
FIVE TYPES OF MEAT IN THE STOCK.
HOLY CRAP.
THIS IS THE GUY WHO WAS COOKING IT.
A TRADITION FROM FATHER TO SON.
THIS IS THE SINGLE BEST MOUTHFUL OF FOOD,
LIKE, I'VE HAD IN THIS COUNTRY.
I DON'T BELIEVE THIS.
RIGHT HERE.
(laughing)
OH, YEAH, BABY. I DIDN'T BRING MY BATHING SUIT,
(laughs)
AND A GLASS FULL OF RED STUFF--
WHAT IS--WHAT IS THIS AGAIN? HOLY (bleep)!
IF I HAD TO GO TO A DESERT ISLAND,
TOM HANKS, "CAST AWAY"-- SOCCER BALL AND SOME WINE
FOR THE REST OF MY LIFE, I'D BE VERY CONTENT WITH THIS.
I WOULD NOT BE BUILDING A BOAT.
EVERY MEAL I'VE HAD IN CROATIA
IS REALLY (bleep) GOOD.
IT'S LIKE AN UN-(bleep) ITALY
OR AN UN-(bleep) GREECE.
THERE'S AN IMPEDIMENT.
THERE'S SOMETHING STANDING BETWEEN WORLDWIDE ACCEPTANCE
OF CROATIA AS THE NEXT ABSOLUTELY,
YEAH.
IT'S THAT CROATIA AS A NATION
DOESN'T SEEM TO RECOGNIZE HOW GOOD THEY'VE GOT IT
AND WHAT IT IS ABOUT THEMSELVES THAT'S SO WONDERFUL
THAT OTHER PEOPLE WILL WANT.
I'LL HAVE SOME MORE OF THAT, AND SOME MORE.
(voice echoing) MAYBE A LITTLE MORE.
AND SOME MORE. I'LL HAVE SOME MORE OF THAT.
SOME MORE, PLEASE. SOME MORE. AND SOME MORE.
AND SOME MORE, PLEASE. MORE, PLEASE. MORE, PLEASE.
MORE, PLEASE. MORE, PLEASE. MORE, PLEASE.
(laughing)
(normal voice) SOMEHOW-- I DON'T KNOW WHAT HAPPENED.
EVEN THOUGH WE'RE TRAINED CHEFS AND DRINKING PROFESSIONALS...
SOMEHOW THINGS MUST HAVE GOTTEN PAST US,
BECAUSE WE WENT OUTSIDE FOR SOME AIR,
AND THE NEXT THING YOU KNOW, THE WORLD TURNED
AND THE FLOOR CAME UP
AND THIS.
♪♪♪
(man) ♪ NO RESERVATIONS ♪
YOU'RE GONNA KILL ME.
(indistinct conversation)
(laughter)
WHERE'S MY TOGA?
THE WORLD SPINS BACK INTO FOCUS.
TIME PASSES, AND SOMEHOW I FIND MYSELF...
BACK ON THE WATER.
SHEER WALLS RISE VERTICALLY OUT OF THE SEA.
I THINK I'M ON A BOAT AGAIN,
THIS TIME THAT WATERCRAFT
I'VE BEEN REQUESTING,
FULLY LOADED WITH CONFERENCE ROOM, HOT TUB,
MINI SUB, ESCAPE POD,
AND ANTI-PIRATE TORPEDOES I CAN USE
JUST IN CASE I'M UNHAPPY WITH MY LUNCH.
MAN, I'M GONNA GET TANNED.
ONE LAST CRUISE
OFF THE CROATIAN COAST.
THE KORNATI ISLANDS- WEST OF SIBENEK--
A DENSE ARCHIPELAGO OF 130 OR SO ISLANDS,
NOW A NATIONAL PARK.
THAT SURE LOOKS BEAUTIFUL, MAN.
ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL.
WELL, NOW YOU KNOW WHY ALL THESE RUSSIAN (bleep)
COME HERE TO DO SLALOM WITH THEIR YACHTS
ALL AROUND THIS PLACE.
MOST OF THE ISLANDS
ARE UNINHABITED FOR MUCH OF THE YEAR,
CONTAINING A FEW RENTAL COTTAGES AND SEASONAL HOMES.
THE OCCASIONAL TAVERN, LIKE, SAY, THIS ONE
IN AN ATTRACTIVE COVE, CHOSEN NOT REALLY AT RANDOM
WHERE WE--I MEAN, MATE BEGINS THE UNGLAMOROUS BUSINESS
OF CLEANING THE FRESH SARDINES AND MULLET FOR LUNCH.
AND WE'RE JUST GONNA CUT THEIR HEADS OFF
AND JUST DO IT ALL TOGETHER.
THE TAVERN PROPRIETOR, RECOGNIZING MATE FROM TV,
CAN'T RESIST THE URGE TO STRAIGHTEN HIM OUT
ON HIS FISH CLEANING TECHNIQUE.
HOW DO YOU SAY "SCHOOLED" IN CROATIAN?
OKAY, NOW I'M GONNA LEAVE.
(speaking Croatian)
LEMON, CAPERS, AND A FANTASTIC LOCAL OLIVE OIL
ARE THE WAY TO GO.
A QUICK GRILLING OVER CHARCOAL
AND WE RETIRE TO OUR VESSEL, THE "DISCO VOLANTE,"
FOR AN OLIGARCH'S MEAL.
AHH, THERE WE GO.
ALLOW ME.
OH, THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
SOME HAM, SOME LOCAL CHEESE, SOME ANCHOVIES,
AND YOU HAVE A RECIPE
FOR PERFECT DESPOT-QUALITY HAPPINESS.
SOME CAPPERS. SOME RED MULLETS.
OH, YEAH.
OH.
OH, THAT'S (bleep) GORGEOUS. COME ON.
LOOK AT THAT.
YEAH, IT'S TASTY.
OH, THIS ONE HAS A CAPER UP HER BELLY.
BEN WA BALLS FOR FISH.
(laughs)
YEAH?
(laughs)
SO REALLY, THE MESSAGE HERE IS
LIFE IN CROATIA DOES NOT SUCK.
WE'VE ESTABLISHED THIS BEYOND ANY QUESTION.
IT'S SUCH A PERFECT SPOT TO COME
IF YOU'RE LUCKY ENOUGH TO HAVE A PASSPORT AND TRAVEL,
TO BE ABLE TO GO ANYWHERE WHENEVER YOU WANT,
AND YOU HAVEN'T BEEN HERE, YOU ARE AN--
YOU'RE A (bleep) IDIOT. I'M AN IDIOT.
IT TOOK ME THIS LONG.
SEASON EIGHT IT TOOK ME TO GET HERE.
THIS IS (bleep) AWESOME.
IT'S ABSOLUTELY (bleep) AMAZING, MAN.
Closed Captions provided by Scripps Networks, LLC.
Captioned by Closed Captioning Services, Inc.