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My name is Joy Monahan. I live in Honolulu, Hawaii,
and I'm the 2008 women's longboard world champion.
I've been surfing around 18 years.
I started out longboarding.
I think I just love the feeling of nose riding,
like you're floating on the water.
It's a pretty unique, incredible feeling.
My dad grew up in Hawaii, and he was a total beach bum.
When he had my sisters and me, he was so excited to teach us,
and it kind of became our family activity.
It was our daddy-daughter time
when we went surfing to bond with our dad.
I've been competing since I was 13. In 2008 I went to France
and took first in the Women's Longboard World Championships.
My first reaction was to cry.
I couldn't believe I'd just won such a huge goal of mine.
I don't think my life has really changed that much,
because right after I won, I started school a month later
and got back into the grind.
I still have chores, and I have to cook,
so life hasn't changed that much.
I think surfing has helped me stay out of trouble.
The one thing I learned in surfing
is that you've got to position yourself in the right place;
otherwise you just don't catch any good waves.
I think that's how you have to be in life:
position yourself in the right place
so you can make use of opportunities that come.
My name is Joy Monahan.
I'm a professional longboard surfer,
and I'm a Mormon.