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Hello everyone, a long time ago I made this LED sphere
and
some tutorials about it
the last one was called: why the wires don't tangle, since a lot of you asked me
that question
and
even after that I left
a comment
saying that if anyone did not understand something
they could click the "Thumbs up" button, and when the comment gets to 200 "Thumbs Up"
I would make another tutorial.
It really didn't get to 200, I think it got to 180, but I don't know why
YouTube's policies changed
and that comment which was highly voted, was left behind and now
it's practically invisible, you have to go way back to find it,
so it will never reach 200 "Thumbs Up" which was
what I had asked for to make another tutorial, but I think
it's worth to make it.
I'll try
to fully disassemble it, destroy it, in some way,
and I hope you can understand
clearly how it works, now it's working but since
the red led
got unwelded
it is working at a very low voltage, in fact
it's running on 4v
which is why
it turns very slowly and it is not very bright at the moment.
and now we're going to disassemble it fully
so that you can understand, especially when it comes to the bushings.
Alright, let's disassemble it.
So here you can see it with more detail, I will say again
the resistance on these leds are all the same, even though
the resistance of the
red led should not be the same as the
blue and the green leds.
But I made it so that all three leds have a resistance of 470 Ohms,
if you have any doubts as to how to calculate the resistance, check out my
tutorial for leds from scratch where I explain how that is done.
So 470 ohms for each led.
This engine is from an old tape recorder
and this other one is from a CD drive, it's the engine that
ejects the tray.
Both engines are DC
and the bushings,
this one for example
and this other one, I got them
from an old
PC cooler.
So now let's move on to disassembling it completely
so that you can understand
what I did
on the central engine.
Which is what some people may have doubts about.
Here is the other axis that I added
and the additional bushing
that I put on the engine, which is isolated from the chassis, you'll see how.
and the other pole goes through the other axis,
here we have one pole, you can clearly see the cable
that goes to the axis.
It comes through the bushing.
So what I did was I took this engine,
and welded one of the contact points
of the engine
directly to the chassis
here with this wire
and the other one
I welded to
the bushing
which is glued and insulated
It is very important for it to be insulated because otherwise, it would go into a dead circuit
And this bushing is also welded to the three resistances of the leds.
And this red led
practically came off.
So the leds
are welded to the chassis, I have one here that came off
so on one hand they're welded to the chassis,
welded to the resistance, and welded to the central bushing.
I will disassemble this central bushing so that it is
clear and you can see it well.
I repeat, one of the terminals of this engine
is conected to the chassis
and the other is conected to the bushing
It is glued and insulated.
Since it is glued with
a hot glue gun or silicone gun
upon heating it a bit
it comes off. As you can see I used
insulated tape
so that there is no possibility
that this bushing makes electrical contact
with the chassis of the engine.
And see, how it was conected
to the other
power pole.
One directly to the chassis
and the other
welded
to the bushing.
So on one hand the power comes through the axis,
here as there is no insulation
it has contact
and on the other hand
our extra bushing that we added, which came from, like I said, a PC cooler.
Regarding the led I don't think
there will be
any problem
I'm going to take one off
so one of the legs is welded to the chassis
and the other one to the resistance.
That's all.
Maybe I'll reassemble it at some point.
If you want to
vary the rotation speed which is very advisable
and do not want to mess around with it too much,
what I can recommend is a power source like this where you can change the voltage.
It would be ideal to have one power source for the central engine
and another one for the
side engine.
so that you can choose a different speed for each one,
especially for the central engine, perhaps,
but it depends on the engine you use.
So from here I could,
with this kind of power source, increasing the voltage a bit until it reaches
a speed
that you think is appropriate for this LED sphere.
So, goodbye
and until next time, you can leave your questions in the comments.
And please don't stop supporting.