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Hi there! I am Spiros
Welcome to the 2nd part of the tutorial "Drum Room Construction"
and in this part I will present you
the timeline of the first construction build
with photos and the appropriate explanations
What you will see is the WRONG construction
and we are going to analyse what NOT to do.
As well as what kind of results we will have,
if we do what we should not do.
So lets begin! This is the 1st picture...
This is the entrance to the storage room.
This room is 16m2, and I used 12m2 in order to finally have 10m2 of usable surface.
The dimensions are 3.40m (W), 3.50m (L), 2.30m (H).
As we said at Part I, we need at least a 20cm gap for proper insulation
from the existing wall (mass) until the first layer of drywall (mass).
But due to the small space and the circumstances
I could not make this 20cm gap.
Here is another picture
of the empty room
and here is the 3d picture.
From the right side of the picture at the door
until the left side (all this part with the stuff),
this is the "limited" area (the 12m2)
this means that the construction began after the main entrance door.
From these 12m2 I ended up with 10m2 usable surface.
The rest m2 are still storage space.
So lets begin with the construction
The subcontractor began with the floor
by making a wooden frame where under that he placed "anti-vibrational" elastic pads
this rubber was very soft.
I could squeeze it with my hand, and it could be cut with a razor-knife.
This rubber had unknown dynamic characteristics, but the subcontractor
assumed that just because it was rubber,
that it could do the same job with a certified rubber pad.
In order to understand the difference between a certified elastic pad and and a "casual" bulk rubber
I'll tell you that the cost of the rubber that the subcontractor used is 10 euros/m
it is NOT certified
and on the other side, a certified pad for small loads like the one I used,
which has dimensions (1 piece)... 6cm (L), 6cm (W), 2.5cm (H)
it is not easy to cut it with a razor-knife
maybe you can cut it with a razor-knife but it is going to be a struggle,
it is impossible to squeeze it with your hand,
and the cost is 2.50 euros per piece.
So lets go to the first picture of the floor construction
This is the rubber he used
Its is bulk
In this picture I hold one piece of this rubber,
and I don't know if it is clear to you, but it is very very soft.
This is the 3d picture were I started feeling suspicious about the sloppiness of the construction
This wooden beams are used for the framing of the floor
The frame was made and in between he used this beams for reinforcement
What I didn't like at all, was that the rubbers where installed with insulating tape
It seemed VERY sloppy, but I didn't give the necessary attention.
Lets go to the 3d picture
This is the frame with the reinforcement beams and rubber underneath
This is the finished frame with rock-wool in between for dampening
And here is a closer picture where you can see that the frame is not in direct contact with the existing walls
Here is a picture of the floor covering with marine plywood
And here is another close picture of the floor finished
and another one...
So we are done with the construction of the floor
We move on with the dual layer false walls with rock-wool in between (not 80% filled)
This is the 1st picture
next picture, with the first layer of drywall
And this is one of the false walls finished
Now I think it's pointless to show all the walls, the same thing goes for all the walls
Now we move to the false ceiling
So...one more time!!!
The PROPER DECOUPLING is CRUCIAL in order to make a proper insulating construction
We must not have have direct contact between all the structural elements!
This means that when we frame (for the false walls), the frames must not have direct contact with the floor as well as the ceiling and for that we should use decoupling rubber pads
Same goes for the false ceiling which must not have direct contact
either for the pre-existing ceiling where we install anti-vibrational spring mounts
either with the false walls where we use foam cord in-between
So now we will see the false ceiling that the subcontractor made
The first mistake is the frame which is in direct contact with the false walls (he should suspend the false ceiling)
because as we said we need DECOUPLING. This construction cancels the whole "decoupling sense"
The second mistake is this "alchemy" he made as an anti-vibrational suspension mount.
He used remnants of the frame, the bulk rubber he had
he tied it with masking tape (!!!)
and installed it directly in the ceiling
He claimed that this "alchemy" was very efficient
GOD SAVE US !!!
The anti-vibrational efficiency of this "alchemy" is unknown
and beside that the static efficiency is also unknown about the load of the false ceiling that can handle
Another picture
Here is the rock-wool
Next picture is the room finished
So now we have the so called "Room In A Room"
We have built a room in a (pre-existing) room
Not the way we should of-course...but what you see is a room in a room
The most tragic mistake is that on the way on we made another room, inside the room we made
We built a room in a room, within a room
\m/ *** YEAH \m/
At this point I have to tell you some extra details about the mistakes of the constructions
The 1st mistake is the floor, actually not the floor but the rubber pads
So I repeat what I said at the Part I...these rubbers work like a vehicle suspension system, by absorbing the shocks
As any vehicle needs the appropriate suspension system
the same thing we should have done with the floor
So in this case all the false walls have been mounted on the floating floor
The floating floor has received circumferentially all the load from each false wall.
The G/B weighs 10kg/m2
Each false wall is approximately 7m2.
So by having double layer of G/B for each false wall,
the weight is 140kg per false wall, (20kg dual G/B x 7m2)
By making another room (after the first false room)
we have plus 140kg more
So this floor received 280kg, on each side. (1.120kg total !!!)
This load caused a cavity, a curve, by pressuring it on each side
This curved was not obvious, but if you gave attention you could see it.
This floor is "resonant cavity" type. Sometimes it is made on purpose, but it was useless for my needs...
Actually he made me a floor that causes "hum".
He made me a woofer...a low frequency amplifier...
It was a brain stroke!
The noise that travelled at the upper floors was worse than before making the construction!
The 2nd room in a room is the next mistake.
This is also a low frequency booster.
And at this point
we will see a picture
and I will explain (in simple words) what these numbers mean.
So we have STC33, STC36, STC40, STC50, STC57, STC63
I don't know what STC stands for, as well as the numbers
As far as I understand STC stands for a rate about sound reduction, and each number is in accordance with the STC (the bigger the better)
I think it is stands for db or something like that.
Again...the bigger the number, the better the sound reduction result.
STC33: Left side is wall (mass) next is gap (spring) and next on the right we have wall (mass)
These walls are G/B
STC36: It is the STC33 with insulation in the gap. (rock-wool, fibreglass etc)
By adding insulation in the gap offers what we were saying in Part I about the extra sound reduction that materials like rock-wool offer.
STC40: Is an STC 36 on the left, gap and another STC36 on the right.
The construction provides us 4 units extra sound reduction from STC36.
STC50: Is the STC40 with one less G/B layer on the right.
By removing one layer, by removing mass we have EXTRA sound reduction.
STC57: Is the STC50 with a remover layer of G/B on the left side.
Again by removing mass (2 layers of G/B) we have extra sound reduction. (+7 from STC50 and +17 from STC40)
STC63: Is the STC57 with the removed layers of G/B, added exteriorly.
This automatically provides us another 6 units extra sound reduction.
+23 from STC40, +13 from STC50 and +6 from STC57
STC63 is the PROPER construction!
MASS (wall) - SPRING (gap) - MASS (wall)
We follow the STC63 in all constructions that need sound insulation.
The subcontractor made me an STC40 construction
So when we have an already build room, we leave gap (the more the gap the better the outcome)
afterwards we frame for the false walls with anti-vibrational pads for the framing
and afterwards we install the Gypsum Board (more layers of G/B the better the outcome)
When we do not have a room,
we frame, we install as much layers of G/B we can
we make a gap as long as we can
we make a new interior framing
and again we install as much layers of G/B we can
We always fill the gap with low density rock-wool by 80%
But if we don't have the budget we need one or two layers of rock-wool for each side
And in order for you to have a clear view of the wrong construction
pay attention to the next pictures
Here is the WRONG construction
On the right side is the wall we made exteriorly
This is the side where there was no wall. We made one
So the subcontractor made the first frame for the exterior false wall
with 2 layers of G/B exteriorly
next another two layers of G/B (moving to left)
He made another frame for the interior side
and then another two layers of G/B
This is the WRONG thing!!!
But this one...
Is the RIGHT thing!
On the right side is the framing for the exterior wall with 4 layers of G/B
next is the gap filled by 80% with rock-wool
Then we have the frame for the interior side and 3 layers of G/B
So we are done with Part II
see you again for Part III, which is going to be the timeline of the right construction
The drum-room / home studio, as it is today
I hope you understand everything I say
If you have any questions you can reach me through social networks or comment below the video
Again thank you a lot for your time,
and see you in Part III... bye bye!!!