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Hello guys, this is Jim
and without further ado I give you the Perfect Grade
Gundam Astray, enjoy...
[music]
[record scratch]
ok, stop the presses I am not done with this kit
I just snapped it together it is far from done
so, this is work in progress #2 Custom PG Astray Blue Frame
Cue the intro!
[music]
no no no, I am far from done
yeap, I only snapped this guy together
finally snapped him together this guy is far from being complete
still need to prime and paint him
but as you can see, he's all prepped up
believe it or not, the longest that it took for me to do was
his manipulators. His hands are full of mold lines
like you wouldn't believe and it took a lot of sanding
each one of those fingers it was just painful to do
but the end result I think came out alright
removed the seam line from the sheath and I think this guy is coming along
pretty nice, I'm pretty happy with him I'm not sure how I'm going to be posing him
but, yeah, I can finally start thinking about painting him
but in the meantime I wanted to show you something in regards to
the articulation of this kit in terms of the legs, and a quick tip
so enjoy...
Let me get this guy out of the way I just kind of wanted to show
something real quick
This is the leg of the PG Red Frame and I kind of wanted to
show a point. Most of you probably know Perfect Grades cost $150, $200 dollars
$250 dollars, you know, somewhere near the $300's
For those of you who probably don't know why it's so expensive
it's not really the size of the kit the kit is plastic, and plastic
relatively is cheap. These kits, in general, are mass produced
They use molds to produce these kits and you know they have high quality standards
and I give them that can drive the price a little up but that's not really the
cost of the kit. I think the cost of this kit is just the engineering effort
that goes behind it. And what I mean is just the detail
of everything. As an example this foot is just amazing
As you start building it you start kind of seeing things
You kind of learn to appreciate what goes behind the design of one of these kits
Like for example when this ankle moves you see the armor moves with it
That wasn't securely tied down... I haven't glued this down yet, but
I tend to widen the gaps on these kits just so I can take them apart easier later on
so when they're snapped together they're pretty loose
That's one of the things that I love about these kits
If it goes up and down, this moves
and for example, if I try to bend this here, like this...
see this armor, see how it splits?
That is pretty cool
So there's still work to be done on this kit
I'm just snapping it together and sanding as I go along
On the finished kit this is not going to be loose, I tend to glue
everything together, just leave the articulating joints, those are not glued
of course, but, armor that's not supposed to move, it's supposed to stay in place
that's going to be glued down
I got the two legs almost done, there's still a couple of things I need to do
but overall I'm just loving the way this thing moves, it's just pretty amazing how
how it just articulates, and you see armor just shift, pistons move around
It is pretty cool
and from what I heard on the forums and seen on the forums is that
the Master Grade is pretty close, I mean it's not Perfect Grade in terms of articulation
but there's a couple of things that it borrows from the Perfect Grade
I haven't built one yet I might in the future
That's what I wanted to show you guys talk to you soon...
Alright... I just wanted to point something out real quick
show off the importance of sanding the surface of armor
and this is the perfect example right here
this part of the knee and I don't know if the camera picks it up
you can kind of see through the plastic these lines which if I flip the piece
you see these support structures inside the armor
but you can kind of see them through the plastic and it's very noticeable here
It picks up better in "real life" then in the camera
and if I were to prime this guy it even pops out even more
and it just looks weird so what I do is
I use these little sponges made by Norton. I have a brand new one
right here, Norton 320 grit Extra Fine
like the picture shows I think this is mostly used for wood, but
what I like about this sponge as opposed to some of the other sponges I've seen around
is that it's really thin. It is really thin, so
I basically just cut these into little squares like this
and they just conform perfectly to any surface
So I just basically sand until these disappear
and the ending result is this
so maybe I can pick up the difference between unsanded, this one, and sanded
you see those lines are gone
Again, it looks better in "real life" but again, when I prime this guy
it'll look ultra smooth, you will not see any lines whatsoever
So those are just little imperfections of the plastic that I think
if you want a nice model you'll have to take care of
Ok, so we're back. I wanted to show you that, guys
Just to kind of see the importance of sanding and some of the cool
articulation that a Perfect Grade kit has
But anyway, yeah, I think I'm ready to paint this guy
A couple of things I wanted to show you was paints that I got in the mail
that I'm thinking of using to paint him with, and...
these are it These Alclad paints
that I got... I don't know, I searched online
to see the results of these paints and I couldn't really find
anything, except what was shown on the website
but these are new Alclad paints
Despite them saying "LACQUER" I believe these are enamel paints
Actually this one is a lacquer I'll explain what this one is later on
Essentially, these are candy lacquers
I mean, candy enamels Alclads and this is a new line that they recently launched
and I'm kind of surprised I don't see more of these online and in forums
so I thought, what the hell, I'll buy a few bottles and try them myself
so essentially, you got a bright silver candy base that you apply
and according to Tony, and his website
you're supposed to apply this directly to the plastic, no
priming or anything, so this is gonna be interesting
I don't know, I mean, I usually prime to cover sanding and imperfections
small imperfections, or to see imperfections
so to apply this directly to the plastic, I don't know, I'll have to experiment
a little bit... and we got different colors here
Candy Cobalt Blue
Candy Indigo It's a different shade of blue
Candy Enamel Red
now if you've seen the pictures on the website
they just look amazing and I can't wait to try these out
but I have to pull out my plastic spoons and test a little bit
and this Transparent Blue I was thinking of putting it on top of
a chrome base to see how it looked, just to test it out
I also have Tamiya Clear Blue
Now this is an acrylic paint I'm not too keen on acrylics
I don't really like using them just because of the fact that they tend
to peel easier then enamels and lacquers
But if I like the results I'll give it a try
What the hell, I had this bottle lying around so I thought
I'd test it out And the other one I wanted to try out
were these...
Mr. Crystal Color
These you need a black gloss base
and then you just apply these on top, and they should look kind of
like candy, sort of like... I don't know...
You can kind of see how it looks
How it reflects... it should give sort of like a
almost like a pearlescent color
so basically you're skipping... if you used pearl powders before
you kind of skipping that step of using the powders on the paint
and just apply the paint directly so these already have the pearl
chemicals inside I guess so...
give that a try
Hey by the way guys be careful with hobby knives
can't stress this enough
so be careful when you're using your hobby knives
I've cut myself way too many times enjoying the hobby
Alright... this is another one that I wanna try out
Tamiya Gold
because essentially... Eventually I will be stripping that gold
from the sword, and applying a gold color coat, so...
I have to try this one out
and finally...
these right here
Mr. Color Metallics
I have a few I wanted to try out
Super Titanium
Super Fine Silver
I don't know why it says "Siler" there, but...
it should be Silver
This one right here Plate Silver
I heard this thing is supposed to be like amazing
it comes in this little box
and curiously enough,
it has it's own thinner
which is just weird...
so you don't use the actual Mr Color thinner
it has it's own thinner so it's going to be interesting to use
No idea how to apply this
I can't really find any info on these on the web
and I can't read Japanese...
Super Iron and Super Gold
Now guys like SNEEPER and Matt Mrozek
they swear by Mr. Color Super Metallics
they love these things so...
I said to myself "hey, just give it a shot"
and yeah, that's it, that's pretty much what I wanted to show you guys
Hope you enjoyed the work in progress
Like the video if you liked SUBSCRIBE...
if you wanna see more updates
Now, I think I'm going to be taking a break from this guy
I will be testing out some spoons
and testing out all of these colors
just to kind of see what I want to use
I think I'm going to be continue working on my RX-78-2 ver Ka
so I can finally finish that guy he's maybe 80% done
Alright guys thank you for watching
and I'll see you guys later