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[ SEA GULLS CRYING ]
BLUE.
DEEP BLUE.
LIGHT BLUE.
NAVY BLUE.
GUNMETAL BLUE.
EVERY SHADE, EVERY VARIATION ON THE COLOR,
AND SOME YOU'VE NEVER SEEN BEFORE.
THE PAINTINGS ON THE WALLS
OF MY FRIEND'S RESTAURANT IN NEW YORK, THEY DIDN'T LIE.
BRITTANY'S LIKE THAT.
IT'S A LANDSCAPE OF ROCK AND OCEAN,
THE PLACE WHERE SEA AND SKY MEET.
ONCE THE LAST STOP BEFORE EAST MET WEST.
IT'S FRANCE, BUT IT'S KIND OF NOT.
I'M ANTHONY BOURDAIN.
♪ THAT'S RIGHT ♪
I WRITE.
I TRAVEL.
I EAT.
AND I'M HUNGRY FOR MORE.
♪ OOH ♪
♪ YOU GOT TO ♪
♪ GET LOST ♪
-- Captions by VITAC -- www.vitac.com
CAPTIONS PAID FOR BY THE TRAVEL CHANNEL, L.L.C.
[ WOMAN VOCALIZING ]
Bourdain: THERE ARE PAINTINGS IN LE BERNARDIN
IN NEW YORK OF FISHERMEN.
MY EXPECTATION WAS THAT THERE WOULD BE BEAUTIFUL BLUES HERE.
OF COURSE, IT'S EVEN MORE BEAUTIFUL THAN THE PAINTINGS.
BRITTANY'S A PLACE FOR THE BIG SCREEN.
IT DEMANDS A WIDE SCREEN, CAN'T BE CAPTURED BY THE CAMERA
OR CONTAINED, REALLY, ON A CANVAS.
Roellinger: THE SKY, THE SEA...
IT OCCUPIES A LARGE PENINSULA
AT THE NORTHWESTERN CORNER OF FRANCE,
JUTTING OUT INTO THE ATLANTIC.
ROMAN CONQUEST, WARS BETWEEN THE FRENCH AND ENGLISH,
VIKINGS, PIRATES,
THE RICHES OF THE EASTERN SPICE TRADE,
AND THE WEALTH OF THE SEA,
A HISTORY OF BLOOD AND TOIL, INVASION, AND STRUGGLE,
AN AREA KNOWN AS FINISTèRE -- "THE END OF THE EARTH."
[ BOTH LAUGH ]
NOT RECENTLY, I HOPE.
NO, NO, NOT RECENTLY.
IT HAS TRADITIONALLY HAD ROADS WHICH LED NOWHERE
AND PLACES MARKED ON THE MAP THAT DIDN'T EXIST.
AT ONE TIME, IT WAS SEALED OFF FROM THE REST OF FRANCE
BY AN IMPENETRABLE FOREST,
AND ITS PROUD APARTNESS IS A REFLECTION OF THAT ISOLATION.
IT WAS SETTLED EARLY ON BY CELTIC TRIBES
AND IDENTIFIES ITSELF STILL A LITTLE MORE CLOSELY
WITH CELTIC LORE AND CULTURE THAN GALLIC.
WHAT'S FOR SURE
IS THAT IT'S ALWAYS LIVED AND DIED BY THE SEA.
OH, AND ONE MORE THING.
I'M PARTICULARLY INTERESTED IN THE TOWER OF SHELLFISH.
I'M PLANNING ON JUST HITTING THAT REAL HARD WHEN I'M HERE.
MORE ON THAT LATER.
CHEF OLIVIER ROELLINGER IS A MAN IN A HURRY.
HERE AT THE FARMERS MARKET IN THE CITY OF RENNES,
IT'S ALL I CAN DO TO KEEP UP WITH HIM.
MERCI.
MERCI.
BONJOUR.
OUI. MERCI.
OUI. BONJOUR.
BONJOUR.
SO, WHEN YOU COME HERE, DO YOU HAVE A PLAN
OR DO YOU SEE WHAT'S GOOD AND THEN MAKE A PLAN?
[ BOTH LAUGH ]
HE'S ONE OF THE MOST RESPECTED AND ADMIRED CHEFS IN FRANCE,
BUT THAT CLEARLY IS NOT ENOUGH FOR HIM.
HE'S IN A HURRY
AS ONLY A MAN WHO'S STARED INTO THE ABYSS CAN BE.
IN 1976, HE WAS A 21-YEAR-OLD CHEMISTRY STUDENT
WHO LOVED TO TRAVEL,
WHEN HE WAS RANDOMLY AND SAVAGELY ATTACKED
ON THE STREETS OF SAINT-MALO.
FIVE PEOPLE WIELDING IRON BARS BEAT HIM HORRIBLY,
LEAVING HIM FOR DEAD.
HE LAY IN A COMA FOR WEEKS, AND WHEN HE AWOKE,
HE WAS IN A WHEELCHAIR FOR ANOTHER TWO YEARS.
HE HAD TO PAINSTAKINGLY TEACH HIMSELF TO WALK ALL OVER AGAIN.
OLIVIER DROPPED HIS STUDIES, READ VORACIOUSLY,
AND WHEN HE WAS FINALLY ABLE TO MOVE ABOUT AGAIN,
BEGAN A CAREER AS A COOK AND CHEF FROM THE GROUND UP.
IN 2006, HIS FINE-DINING RESTAURANT,
MAISONS DE BRICOURT,
RECEIVED THREE MICHELIN STARS -- THEIR HIGHEST HONOR.
IN 2008, HE HANDED THEM BACK
AND CLOSED THE RESTAURANT IN FAVOR OF SOMETHING DIFFERENT.
IN FACT, MANY THINGS DIFFERENT.
TO DESCRIBE HIM AS A CHEF IS INSUFFICIENT.
HE TAKES ME AROUND HIS LATEST VENTURE -- THE CHATEAU RICHEUX,
A MAGNIFICENT STRUCTURE LOOKING OUT OVER THE SEA
AND MONT-SAINT-MICHEL.
IT'S A RESTAURANT AND A HOTEL,
BUT ROELLINGER BEING WHO HE IS, THAT'S NOT QUITE ALL IT IS.
HISTORY'S IMPORTANT TO YOU.
EVERYTHING HERE, FROM THE EXOTIC HERBS
TO APPLE ORCHARD TO HIDDEN GROVE,
THE POTATO FARM NEXT DOOR,
EVEN THIS, THIS TEPEE,
IS A REFLECTION OF HIS BOYHOOD DREAMS
AND AN EXPLORATION OF BRITTANY'S IDENTITY.
AND AS YOU CAN PROBABLY IMAGINE,
SOME OF HIS BOYHOOD DREAMS WERE DIFFERENT.
[ LAUGHS ]
THE SOUND.
[ THUMPING ]
OOH, YEAH.
THIS IS THE...THE ORIGINAL FRENCH BREAD.
YEAH.
THE BOULE, FRENCH FOR "BALL."
THIS IS OLIVIER'S OWN BAKERY
MAKING LIMITED QUANTITIES OF BREAD FOR ONLY HIS RESTAURANT,
AND TYPICALLY HE LISTENS TO THE SOUND OF THE BREAD,
NOT THE CASH REGISTER.
IT'S BECAUSE HE'S A FEROCIOUS ADVOCATE
FOR THE GLORIES OF TINY,
INDIVIDUALLY OWNED AND OPERATED PRODUCERS,
FOR THE IDEA THAT ONE SHOULD -- NO, MUST -- KEEP IT SMALL.
[ SNORTING ]
THOSE, MY FRIENDS,
ARE SOME SWEET-SMELLING [BLEEP] PIGS.
CLEAN, I TELLS YOU.
IN FACT, THIS WHOLE PLACE SMELLS DECIDEDLY BETTER
THAN MY COLLEGE DORM EVER DID.
[ SNORTING ]
YOU SEE, IT'S A VERY SPECIAL SMELL.
THEY ARE VERY CLEAN.
I WAS JUST GONNA SAY THEY LOOK CLEAN AND HAPPY.
THE FRENCH ARE BIG BELIEVERS IN THE CONCEPT OF TERROIR,
THE NOTION THAT IN WINE, FOR INSTANCE,
YOU CAN TASTE THE SOIL, THE SURROUNDINGS,
THE TERRITORY.
BUT WHAT ABOUT PIGS?
CAN YOU TASTE A HAPPY ANIMAL?
IS A HAPPY ANIMAL A BETTER-TASTING ANIMAL?
AND THESE GUYS?
THESE HAPPY, WELL-SCRUBBED ANIMALS
ARE OWNED AND RAISED AND PAMPERED BY THIS WOMAN --
BRIGITTE LEPAGE, WHO ALSO TURNS THESE HAPPY,
LIMITED-EDITION PIGGIES INTO THIS...
HER AWARD-WINNING,
MIND-BLOWINGLY GOOD-TASTING LIMITED-EDITION CHARCUTERIE.
BEST PORK *** EVER.
WHAT'S PARTICULARLY COOL
IS THAT AFTER ALL THE EXPENSE AND WORK
AND CARE TAKEN TO RAISE WHAT ARE ESSENTIALLY
PROHIBITIVELY EXPENSIVE BOUTIQUE ANIMALS,
THE LEPAGES MAKE CRUDE-LOOKING, UNAPOLOGETICALLY RUSTIC,
UNFUSSY-LOOKING OLD-SCHOOL PâTéS,
SAUSAGES, AND RILLETTE.
RILLETTE IS MEAT -- IN THIS CASE, PORK --
THAT IS SLOWLY COOKED IN ITS OWN SEASONED FAT
AND PULVERIZED INTO A PASTE.
NO, REALLY.
THE LEPAGES ARE 4-TIME WINNERS
OF THE DESIGNATION BEST CHARCUTERIE IN FRANCE.
LOOK AT THIS SUSHI. NEW KIND OF SUSHI.
THE RILLETTE IS ROLLED UP IN A GALETTE,
A TRADITIONAL CREPE-LIKE CAKE MADE OF BUCKWHEAT.
WHAT A PLEASURE. I'LL HAVE ANOTHER ONE OF THOSE.
[ LAUGHS ]
OH, MAN.
YOU KNOW, WHAT'S PARTICULARLY AMAZING,
IS THESE ARE ALL VERY TRADITIONAL,
VERY STRONG FLAVORS, VERY RUSTIC-LOOKING,
BUT SO DELICATE.
I MEAN REALLY SUBTLE, REALLY DELICATE.
THE WAY YOU RAISE THE ANIMAL.
PORK ITSELF IS ALL THE DIFFERENCE IN THE WORLD.
YES.
THIS IS MY FANTASY OF PORK.
I DREAM OF A TABLE LIKE THIS AND COUNTRYSIDE LIKE THIS.
HAVE A LITTLE COTTAGE I COULD STAY IN ON THE PROPERTY?
I COULD, YOU KNOW, LIVE HERE FOR THE SUMMER
AND JUST EAT THIS EVERY DAY.
[ LAUGHTER ]
I'M MISERABLE. HOW WILL I LIVE WITHOUT THIS?
I NEED TO GET IN TOUCH WITH MY FRENCH FOODS PRONTO.
[ LAUGHTER ]
NEXT UP, A GREATEST HITS OF LOCAL INGREDIENTS
AND A WHOLE NEW APPROACH TO HIGH-END DINING.
[ SEA GULLS CRYING ]
CANCALE, A QUIET VILLAGE ON BRITTANY'S EMERALD COAST.
VAST EXPANSES OF OCEAN FLOOR FILL,
ARE LAID DRY, THEN FILL AGAIN.
ONE OF THE MOST SEVERE TIDAL RANGES IN THE WORLD.
I WAS FASCINATED WITH THIS AREA AS A BOY,
READING IN THE "ADVENTURES OF THE SCARLET PIMPERNEL"
THAT YOU COULD, WHEN THE TIDE WAS OUT,
WALK OR EVEN DRIVE TO ISLANDS LIKE MONT-SAINT-MICHEL.
HERE, OLIVIER SEEMS, IN SOME SENSE,
TO BE REALIZING HIS BOYHOOD DREAMS.
TAKE, FOR EXAMPLE, HIS DESSERT SHOP --
GRAIN DE VANILLE.
Bourdain: SO, WHAT DO YOU MAKE HERE?
SAND COOKIES, SO NAMED FOR THEIR CRUMBLY TEXTURE.
DELICIOUS. NEXT UP?
SALTED BUTTER CARAMELS.
THE WHOLE SALT THING WORKS INSIDIOUSLY WELL.
YOU BOIL YOUR SUGAR -- OKAY, YOU DON'T, BUT THEY DO --
THEN ADD BUTTER, LOTS OF RICH, CREAMY,
FRESHLY CHURNED BRITTANESE SALTED BUTTER, AND CREAM.
OH, YEAH!
THEN YOU JAM YOUR NUTS IN THERE AND SORT OF CHURN THEM AROUND.
NOT TOO HARD.
GETTING HOT? GREAT.
'CAUSE NOW YOU POUR THE STUFF ONTO TRAYS AND ALLOW TO COOL.
WHY NO MACHINE?
RIGHT.
[ LAUGHS ]
FOR ME, IT'S ALL ABOUT THIS --
THE MILLE-FEUILLE OF VANILLA CREAM.
FRENCH FOR "1,000 LEAVES," IT'S A LAYERED PUFF PASTRY.
LOOK AT THAT
AND TELL ME YOU DON'T WANT TO DO SOMETHING SHAMEFUL.
HANDS OUT OF YOUR PANTS, LOVE CHUNKS.
YEAH -- YOU!
THIS IS MADE TO ORDER, AND YOU GOT TO ORDER AHEAD
FOR PREPARATION RIGHT BEFORE YOU EAT.
AND DON'T TRY TO PULL A FAST ONE, EITHER.
THE CHEF IS ONTO YOU.
OH, MY GOD.
'CAUSE TOMORROW IT'S...
IT'S FINISHED.
YEAH, GETS SOGGY.
YEAH.
MOMENTARILY CONSIDERING JUST JAMMING ONE IN MY POCKET,
I INSTEAD PLACE AN ORDER NOW TO HAVE ONE AFTER DINNER.
Bourdain: YOU SAID THAT YOUR FAMILY WERE IN THE SPICE-TRADE BUSINESS?
MY GRANDFATHER, YES.
THE SPICE TRADE'S
SOMETHING OF A TRADITION IN THIS AREA, AS WELL?
YES.
THE HISTORY OF THE WORLD IS LOOKING FOR COD
AND LOOKING FOR SPICE.
CARDAMOM, NUTMEG, VANILLA --
ONCE WORTH THEIR WEIGHT IN GOLD.
HOW MANY WARS, HOW MANY PEOPLE DROWNED LIKE RATS,
CONQUERED BECAUSELANDS
THEY TASTED GOOD,
CONCEALED THE STING OF QUESTIONABLE MEAT
AND THE STENCH OF A LARGELY UNWASHED ARISTOCRACY?
MEDICINE, CURRENCY,
FRESHENER OF AN OTHERWISE FECULENT ENVIRONMENT.
TODAY CHEF ROELLINGER CARRIES ON THAT TRADITION.
WELL, AT LEAST THE -- THE GOOD-TASTING PART.
HE MAKES A VERY WELL-KNOWN AND VERY GOOD BUSINESS
FROM 20 ORIGINAL BLENDS AND 12 DIFFERENT OILS,
LIKE THIS STUFF -- DREAM OF COCHIN,
NAMED FOR THE INDIAN CITY
ONCE AT THE CENTER OF THE SPICE TRADE.
THE VERY BEST, RAREST, MOST EXPENSIVE SPICES
ARE SORTED, ROASTED, AND MIXED.
THEN A FINAL STEP.
CHATEAU RICHEUX --
YOU'D THINK THAT THIS AMAZING PROPERTY WOULD BE SNOOTY,
OUT OF REACH TO THE ORDINARY DINER,
BUT IT IS, IN FACT,
THE CULMINATION OF OLIVIER'S CAREER.
THIS IS A PLACE WHERE, HE HOPES,
FINE DINING CAN BECOME MORE ACCESSIBLE,
MORE DEMOCRATIC, AND GENERALLY EASIER.
WE ARE A LITTLE BIT LIKE VIETNAM OR IN CHINA OR IN INDIA.
WHAT'S REALLY REVOLUTIONARY ABOUT THE CHATEAU
IS THE SIMULTANEOUS PRESENTATION OF DISHES,
ALSO, ITS MIXED INFLUENCES.
SHOCKINGLY UNCHARACTERISTIC
OF FINE FRENCH COOKING IN THE PAST.
UP UNTIL NOW, THE CLASSIC HAUTE MANTRA HAS ALWAYS BEEN...
"YOU WILL EAT THIS FOLLOWED BY THIS,
AND YOU WILL LIKE IT" -- STIFLING.
BUT WITH OLIVIER, THAT'S DEAD.
INSTEAD, IT'S "YOU MAY CHOOSE SOME OF THIS
OR SOME OF THAT."
OR IN MY CASE, "YES, PLEASE, I'LL -- I'LL HAVE IT ALL."
Bourdain: WOW.
[ LAUGHS ]
WOFANTASTIC, HUH?S
MM.
OLIVIER FURTHER WANDERS FROM THE HAUTE STATUS QUO
BY ALLOWING FOREIGN INFLUENCES
IN HIS PREPARATION OF LOCAL INGREDIENTS.
PERFECT HAPPINESS.
A CART ARRIVES CARRYING EVERY IMAGINABLE TYPE OF DESSERT.
NO KIDDING.
[ LAUGHS ]
WHILE A LESSER MAN MIGHT NOT HOLD OUT,
MOWING THROUGH THAT CART UNTIL HE GAINED FOUR PANT SIZES,
I'VE GOT A DATE WITH THE MILLE-FEUILLE.
I CAN ALMOST HEAR IT CALLING MY NAME.
DOES IT LOOK GOOD TO YOU?
BELIEVE ME, IT'S EVEN BETTER THAN YOU'RE THINKING.
FLAKY, RICH, A THOUSAND LAYERS OF GOODNESS
WORTH EVERY SECOND I WAITED FOR IT.
NEXT...
IT'S ABOUT EXPERIENCING THE LOCAL CULTURE.
...TERROR WEARS BLUE-AND-WHITE STRIPES.
Bourdain: NOT THAT THERE'S ANYTHING WRONG WITH THAT.
I ADMIRE YOUR ALTERNATE LIFESTYLE, AND I SUPPORT IT.
[ SEA GULLS CRYING ]
[ DRAMATIC MUSIC PLAYS ]
FIRST THING YOU NOTICE IN BRITTANY
IS THE UBIQUITOUSNESS OF FANTASTIC SHELLFISH
EVERYWHERE YOU LOOK.
LOOK IN ANY CAFé, IT SEEMS, AND TWO OR MORE
DISPROPORTIONATELY SMALL FRENCH PEOPLE
ARE ATTACKING UNSCALABLE,
EVEREST-SIZED MOUNTAINS OF PRISTINE SHELLFISH.
HOW DO THEY EAT IT ALL?
AND MORE IMPORTANTLY, WHEN DO I GET ONE?
I HAVE ALREADY BEGUN A BARRAGE OF INQUIRIES INTO THIS MATTER,
DRIVING PRODUCER ALEX LOWRY BAT [BLEEP]
WITH A STEADY DRUMBEAT OF "WHERE'S MY SHELLFISH TOWER?
"WHEN CAN I DO A SHELLFISH-TOWER SCENE?
DON'T FORGET THE SHELLFISH TOWER."
BUT FIRST, I'M FORCED TO CONTEND
WITH A MORE IMMEDIATE SITUATION,
AS CAMERAMAN ZACH HAS INSISTED ON A LITTLE SHOPPING TRIP.
I NEED SOMETHING
I COULD CARRY A BAGUETTE UNDER MY ARM WITH PRIDE.
WHEN STUDYING GROUP BEHAVIORS
AT SOME PSYCH RESEARCH FACILITY OF THE FUTURE,
PERHAPS THE PURCHASING HABITS OF TOURISTS IN BRITTANY
WILL BE THE SUBJECT FOR SERIOUS INQUIRY.
WHAT COULD EXPLAIN THE SUDDEN URGE
BY MASSES OF OTHERWISE REASONABLE PEOPLE
IN COMPELLING ME TO BUY
A BLUE-AND-WHITE-STRIPED NAUTICAL SHIRT?
WE TRY TO DRESS APPROPRIATE TO THE COUNTRY'S ROOTS.
IT'S ABOUT EXPERIENCING THE LOCAL CULTURE.
I THINK THE STRIPES ARE FOR WHEN YOU FALL OFF A BOAT, PEOPLE CAN SEE YOU.
EVERY VISITOR TO BRITTANY IS AT SOME POINT, IT SEEMS,
*** ROBOTICALLY INTO ONE OF THE SCORES OF GIFT SHOPS,
WHERE THEY MUST -- AND DO -- END UP BUYING
THE UNIFORM OF ALL THOSE WHO'VE BEEN TO FRANCE.
WHY?
YOU RARELY SEE A FRENCHMAN IN ONE OF THESE THINGS.
THAT DOESN'T STOP VETERAN CAMERAMAN --
OR SHOULD I SAY EMMY AWARD-WINNING
DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY -- ZACH ZAMBONI.
NOT THAT THERE'S ANYTHING WRONG WITH THAT.
WHAT?!
I ADMIRE YOUR ALTERNATE LIFESTYLE, AND I SUPPORT IT.
WE LESSER CREATURES HAVE LEARNED OVER THE YEARS
AND OVER THE THOUSANDS OF MILES WE'VE TRAVELED,
THE HUMOR IS OCCASIONAL ACQUISITIVE WHIMS,
AS WE KNOW HOW MUCH WORSE IT CAN GET.
OH, HE MAY LOOK MILD-MANNERED,
BUT HE'S SEETHING WITH INNER TURMOIL.
A BOTTLED-UP VOLCANO OF SUPPRESSED RAGE
WITH A POTENTIAL FOR VIOLENCE.
THE RESEMBLANCE TO A YOUNG HUNTER THOMPSON
IS WORTH NOTING WITH CAUTION.
"CHEVAL"! RIDE HORSES!
THAT WAS CLEARLY ROWING.
BATEAU, AHH!
SO, YOU'RE GOOD.
YOU GOT THAT SIX-PACK ACTION GOING ON THERE.
ME, I COULD USE A LITTLE ROOMIER --
I GAINED 10 POUNDS THIS YEAR.
10 POUNDS?
ON THE SHOW, 'CAUSE OF THIS SHOW.
REALLY? DON'T LOOK ACCUSINGLY AT ME.
YOU SIGNED ON FOR THIS CRUISE, GILLIGAN.
SO, IF ZACH WANTS A DAMN FISHERMAN'S SHIRT,
HE GETS ONE.
AND IF HE INSISTS WE ALL GET ONE
SO HE CAN FEEL BETTER ABOUT HIS LIFESTYLE CHOICES,
I-I FEEL OBLIGED,
IN THE INTERESTS OF THE PRODUCTION, TO GO ALONG.
I THINK WE'RE READY TO HIT THE TOWN.
LET'S DO THIS.
YOU SEE A LOT OF OYSTERS AROUND HERE,
JUST LIKE YOU HEAR THE TERM "BELON"
KICKED AROUND ALL THE WAY TO VANCOUVER.
[ THUNDER RUMBLES ]
THE PRESUMPTION IS
THAT'S, LIKE, SUPPOSED TO BE THE BEST THERE IS, RIGHT?
A DIM AWARENESS THAT THE NAME MEANS SOMETHING
OR ONCE MEANT SOMETHING.
SO, WHAT THE [BLEEP] DOES IT MEAN, REALLY?
IT'S COMPLICATED.
A STORY OF INTERNATIONAL THEFT, MISTAKEN IDENTITY,
AND THE MYSTERIOUS PROPERTIES OF ONE PLACE
AND ONLY ONE PLACE.
[ SEA GULLS CRYING ]
THIS PLACE --
THE PORT DE BéLON AT THE MOUTH OF THE BéLON RIVER.
IT'S THE ONLY PLACE THAT CAN TRULY BE SAID
TO GIVE BIRTH TO BELON OYSTERS.
SO, HOW DOES EVERY RAW BAR, EVERY CAP'N McBUGGERY'S,
EVERY RUSTY SCUPPER AND FUSION SUSHI LOUNGE
IN THE FREAKIN' WORLD SEEM TO SPORT A BELON?
HERROIR, THE VICE MAYOR OF A NEARBY TOWN,
PROMISES TO GET THIS SITUATION UN [BLEEP] QUICK.
[ SLURPING ]
MMM. SWEET, NICE.
THIS IS THE BEST OYSTER OF THE WORLD, I THINK.
THIS IS THE REAL THING.
YOU HEAR, "BELON, BELON, BELON,"
BUT THEY'RE ACTUALLY -- THAT'S IT.
PORT DE BéLON?
PORT DE BéLON.
THIS IS ANNE,
APPROPRIATELY ENOUGH KNOWN AS ANNE DE BéLON --
THE NAME OF HER FAMILY BUSINESS AND HER OYSTER FARM.
FOR FOUR GENERATIONS,
THEY'VE BEEN HARVESTING THE REAL THING.
WHICH MEANS EVERY JUNE,
FREE-SWIMMING BABY OYSTERS CALLED SPATS
ADHERE TO SPECIALLY BUILT COLLECTORS,
WHERE THEY REMAIN FOR ABOUT 10 MONTHS.
WHEN BIG ENOUGH, THEY'RE TRANSFERRED TO BEDS
TO REACH THE DESIRED ADULT SIZE.
FINALLY, THEY'RE SOAKED IN SPECIAL NURSERIES.
SO FAR, PRETTY MUCH THE WAY THEY DO IT EVERYWHERE,
EXCEPT NO PLACE IS THIS PLACE.
YOU TASTE THE AREA, SPECIFICALLY.
JUST LIKE WITH WINE,
THE FLAVOR IS DETERMINED BY LOCATION AND SPECIES,
WHICH WITH WINE WOULD BE THE VARIETY OF GRAPE.
GET IT?
SEE, THIS IS THE EUROPEAN FLAT OYSTER -- OSTREA EDULIS --
WHICH HAS A NATURAL RANGE FROM NORWAY TO MOROCCO.
IT HAS BEEN KNOWN BY MANY NAMES,
DEPENDING ON WHERE IT CAME FROM.
THAT IS UNTIL SOMEBODY FIGURED OUT
FLAT OYSTERS FROM BéLON TASTED THE BEST.
[ SLURPS ] MMM. THAT'S GOOD.
SUDDENLY, JUST LIKE EVERYBODY STARTED CALLING
THEIR CRAPPY SPARKLING WINE "CHAMPAGNE,"
EVERYBODY WITH A FLAT OYSTER FROM WHEREVER
STARTED CALLING THEM "BELON."
SO, IF I TOOK A BUNCH OF THESE
AND I TOOK THEM TO MAINE...
IT'S NOT THE SAME.
SAME OYSTER, BUT THE TERROIR IS COMPLETELY DIFFERENT --
THE WATER, THE NUTRIENTS.
NOISETTE, LIKE A NUTTY FLAVOR, YEAH.
THEN ALL THE FLAT OYSTERS -- THE OSTREA EDULIS GUYS --
STARTED TO DIE OFF,
AND CULTIVATORS IN THIS AREA STARTED NECESSARILY
TO GROW IMPORTED SPECIES OF OYSTERS IN THESE WATERS.
AND YOU KNOW WHAT?
THEY TASTE MORE LIKE THE ORIGINAL BELON
THAN FLAT OYSTERS GROWN ELSEWHERE.
CAPICHE?
[ SLURPS ] OH, YEAH.
NOW YOU'RE TALKING MY LANGUAGE.
SO, WHY DO TRUE BELON OYSTERS TASTE LIKE THEY DO?
THAT IS THE REAL MYSTERY.
BUT ONE THING'S FOR SURE --
IF A BELON DIDN'T GROW HERE, IT AIN'T REALLY A BELON.
HELL, EVEN THE DOGS AROUND HERE KNOW THE DIFFERENCE.
DOES HE LIKE OYSTERS?
BELON?
RIGHT, THE CLASSIC --
CLASSIC BELON.
Anne: COME ON. ET TOI...
COMING UP...
WHERE'S MY [BLEEP] WINE? THIS IS WHAT I WANT TO KNOW.
[ Whining ] WHERE'S MY WINE?! THE PRODUCER TOOK AWAY MY WINE!
...A GLASS OF WINE, A CRUST OF BREAD, A VIEW --
IT'S NOT MUCH TO ASK, RIGHT?
SHE'S A CRUEL MISTRESS.
Woman: [BLEEP] [BLEEP]
OH!
[BLEEP] *** OFF.
[BLEEP] [BLEEP]
DOING A GOOD JOB. DOING A GOOD JOB.
THUMBS-UP.
[BLEEP]
[ SEA GULLS CRYING ]
SOMETIMES IN THE WORLD OF TELEVISION PRODUCTION,
THE STARS SEEM TO ALIGN.
CIRCUMSTANCES, LOCATION, THE LIGHT --
THEY ALL SEEM PERFECT.
LOOK AT THOSE BLUES.
THIS PORT -- THE PORT OF DOELAN, IF YOU WANT TO KNOW --
WHAT -- WHAT BETTER BACKGROUND FOR FRESH, SIMPLE, LOCAL FOOD,
A COOK WHO KNOWS HOW TO HANDLE IT,
A PLATE OR TWO OF FISH, A CRUST OF BREAD,
A GLASS OF WINE?
I, FOR ONE, AM A MAN OF SIMPLE NEEDS.
OH, BUT, NO. I GOT TO WALK BACK AND FORTH.
GET SOME NICE BEAUTY SHOTS.
DEEP THOUGHTS.
SUM UP THOUSANDS OF YEARS OF REGIONAL HISTORY.
OH, I'M THINKING OF SOME BIG ISSUES.
"WHEN DO I GET MY SHELLFISH TOWER?
"WHEN DO I GET MY SHELLFISH TOWER?
WHEN DO I GET MY SHELLFISH TOWER?"
WHERE'S MY [BLEEP] WINE? THIS IS WHAT I WANT TO KNOW.
[ Whining ] WHERE'S MY WINE?! THE PRODUCER TOOK AWAY MY WINE!
THIS SHOT IS APPARENTLY BETTER WITHOUT WINE,
ACCORDING TO OUR METTEUR EN SCèNE.
SEE, I'M SPEAKING FRENCH ALREADY.
I FRANKLY THINK A GLASS OF WINE IN THIS SCENE WOULD --
WOULD ADD A CERTAIN FRENCHINESS.
IS THAT A WORD?
THIS IS COMIC [BLEEP] BANTER.
Woman: I'M GETTING YOU MORE WINE.
IT'S AT A PREMIUM ALL THE TIME.
IT'S LIKE, LET'S HAVE SOME COMIC [BLEEP] BANTER.
I'M GETTING YOU MORE!
NO. NO, NO, YOU DON'T WANT COMIC BANTER.
IT'S THE ENGLISH.
FREEDOM FROM PLEASURE IS -- YOU KNOW, IT'S ESSENTIAL.
OH, IT'S ALL FUN BACK IN PREP SCHOOL
WHEN YOU'RE ALL SPANKING EACH OTHER,
BUT HERE WE ARE IN BRITTANY.
OH, NO. OH, NO.
THIS IS THE TINY PORTSIDE TAKEOUT JOINT
RUN BY LOCAL FISHERMAN ALTO DE SENNA.
HE OPENS IT ONLY ON WEEKENDS.
HE SMOKES HIS OWN FISH OR GRILLS IT.
AND LIKE ME, HIS NEEDS ARE SIMPLE.
HE COMES OVER, AS ANY SELF-RESPECTING BRETON WOULD,
TO MAKE SURE WE'RE HAPPY AND TO TAKE OUR ORDER.
WE HAVE A MIX OF SMOKED FISH. IT'S HOMEMADE.
IT'S ME. I SMOKE MYSELF ALL THE FISH I CAN FIND.
AND TODAY I HAVE SALMON. I HAVE TUNA AND SWORDFISH.
AFTER, YOU HAVE A TYPICAL PLATE WITH SALMON GRILLED.
ALL THE PRODUCE ARE FROM BRITTANY, OKAY?
PERFECT.
HAVING FINISHED, HE LEAVES US ALONE.
I MAY BE A MAN OF SIMPLE NEEDS. ALTO IS A MAN OF FEW WORDS.
ON THAT NOTE, HERROIR AND I START
WITH THE ASSORTMENT OF SMOKED FISH, AS PROMISED.
THIS IS GOOD STUFF.
REALLY?
MM.
I SHOULD ALWAYS EAT LIKE THIS.
THIS SHOULD BE MY PLACE.
[ LAUGHS ]
I WOULD BE VERY HAPPY RUNNING THIS PLACE.
WHO COMES HERE MOSTLY? WHAT NATIONALITY?
IT'S A LOT OF ENGLISH PEOPLE, SOME ITALIAN, AND SOME GERMAN.
AMERICAN? NO.
NO. NO, NO.
[ LAUGHS ] REALLY?
YES, REALLY.
WHAT THE [BLEEP] MAN?
PERHAPS IT'S SO FAR.
FAR FROM WHAT?
FROM AMERICA.
AND MAYBE IN SOME WAYS THAT'S A GOOD THING,
BECAUSE THERE WOULDN'T BE ENOUGH OF THIS GOOD STUFF
TO GO AROUND.
THE ANDOUILLE IS IN THE SAUCE OR...?
YES.
AFTER THAT, A PISTOU WITH SEAWEED.
NOTICING WE'RE APPROPRIATELY ENJOYING HIS FOOD,
ALTO SENDS OVER A GRILLED BASS.
I GO STRAIGHT FOR THE CHEEK
BUT DECIDE I'D BETTER SHARE IT WITH THE LOCAL POLITICIAN.
QUALITY OF LIFE.
I HEAR THIS AGAIN AND AGAIN AND AGAIN HERE.
THIS IS QUALITY OF LIFE FOR ME.
[ LAUGHS ]
MMM!
PONT-AVEN, A TOWN ABOUT AS WELL KNOWN AS IT GETS IN BRITTANY.
PROBABLY 'CAUSE OF THE ARTISTS LIKE GAUGUIN AND BERNARD
WHO ONCE HUNG AROUND HERE,
NO DOUBT FREELOADING OFF THE LOCAL BARKEEPS.
TODAY THE ATTRACTION APPEARS TO BE
STRIPED SHIRTS AND STUFF IN CANS.
EVERYWHERE THERE ARE SHOPS SELLING THEM.
THEY'RE LIKE THE SALTWATER TAFFY OF THE FRENCH COASTLINE.
I NOTICE A LOT OF SHOPS WITH CONSERVE,
CONSERVE DE POISSON.
MOSTLY BECAUSE IT'S QUITE TOURISTY, PONT-AVEN,
FOOD MAKERS JUST SELL IT.
IT'S NOT NECESSARILY EVEN LOCAL.
THIS IS JACQUES PERON.
MY FRIEND AURéLIE HAS BROUGHT ME HERE
TO SAMPLE HIS SPECIALITY, WHICH STANDS ALONE IN THESE PARTS.
SO, MR. PéRON IS THE ONLY GUY
WHO MAKES STANDING SARDINES.
AND AS I UNDERSTAND IT,
YOU EVEN CONCEIVED THE WHOLE BOTTLE, RIGHT?
ORDINARILY, FISH IN A JAR, I'M THINKING, NOT RIVETING.
VISUALS, NOT SO GOOD.
BUT LOOK AT THESE LITTLE BEAUTIES --
GENTLY PROPPED UP SHOULDER TO SHOULDER,
LIKE THE NUMBER 1 LOCAL AT RUSH HOUR, ONLY DELICIOUS.
AND UNLIKE THE I.R.T., THESE THINGS SMELL SUBLIME.
WHY DO YOU WANT THEM TO STAND UP?
WHAT'S BETTER ABOUT THE STANDING UP?
IT AGES DIFFERENTLY,
AND HE THINKS IT GIVES IT A BETTER TASTE.
WELL, LET'S TRY SOME.
[ AIR HISSES ]
THAT SOUND, MY FRIEND, MEANS MAGIC.
STUFF IN A CAN OR JAR IS NOT NECESSARILY A BAD THING.
IN FACT, IT CAN BE A VERY, VERY GOOD THING.
SO, WHAT'S IN THERE BESIDES SARDINES?
ONE PEPPER.
FIRST-PRESS OLIVE OIL.
ONE BAY LEAF, YEAH, AND I SEE GARLIC.
AND A LITTLE PICKLE.
YOU GINGERLY EXTRACT THESE BAD BOYS FROM THEIR JAR,
DRIPPING WITH SARDINE-INFUSED OIL,
AND SCARF AWAY WITH RECKLESS ABANDON,
ACCOMPANIED, MIGHT I SUGGEST, BY AN APPROPRIATE WHITE WINE.
IT'S HARD TO COMMUNICATE ON TELEVISION HOW GOOD THIS IS.
SEE, IN AMERICA, IF IT COMES IN A CAN,
THE IMPLICATION IS THAT IT'S NOT AS GOOD,
THAT FRESHER IS ALWAYS BETTER.
WHEN WE'RE TALKING ABOUT CONSERVES LIKE THIS,
YOU'RE CURING IN THE CAN.
IT IMPROVES THE FLAVOR.
SO, NEVER THROW THE OIL.
YOU CAN ALWAYS USE THE OIL, WHICH IS FULL OF FLAVOR.
YOU MOP, YOU DRAG THAT BREAD THROUGH THE OIL,
WASTE NOT A GRAM, A DEMIGRAM, SCARF UP EVERY BIT.
IF JACQUES HADN'T GRABBED THE JAR OUT OF MY HANDS,
I WOULD'VE CHUGGED THAT STUFF LIKE A PBR.
HOW MUCH PRODUCT CAN HE PRODUCE?
BUT IF, YOU KNOW, PEOPLE ARE CRYING FOR MORE
AND MORE AND MORE AND MORE AND MORE,
I MEAN, WHAT DO YOU DO?
HE DOESN'T CARE IF HE COULD MAKE MORE MONEY.
BECAUSE THEY'RE FROM BRITTANY, THEY'RE STUBBORN,
AND THEY SIMPLY WON'T DO IT.
NOW ONLY 1,999 JARS LEFT.
[ LAUGHS ]
AFTER THE BREAK, FIGHTIN' WORDS, FRENCHY.
CREPES ARE ALWAYS BETTER IN BRITTANY
RATHER THAN IN PARIS OR WHEREVER IN THE WORLD.
ENTERING THE ALLEGED CREPE CAPITAL OF THE WORLD.
CREPE-ULENT OR CRAP-TASTIC?
IT'S A VERY UNUSUAL MIX.
IT'S WEIRD. I DON'T KNOW IF I LIKE IT.
SEAWEED AND THE MUSTARD TOGETHER ARE REALLY THROWING ME.
[ SEA GULLS CRYING ]
THE TOWN OF QUIMPERLé SITS -- QUIMPERLé.
[ BEEP ] THE TOWN OF QUIMPERLé SI--
QU-- UGH.
[ BEEP ] THE TOWN OF QUIMPERLé --
PERLé.
[ BEEP ] THE TOWN OF -- AND, MAN,
IT'S HARD TO PRONOUNCE --
QUIMPERLé SITS AT THE CONVERGENCE OF TWO RIVERS.
IT'S PICTURESQUE, VERY PICTURESQUE --
AND VERY HARD TO PRONOUNCE -- EVEN IN THE RAIN.
YOU GOT YOUR 16th-CENTURY HOUSES,
YOUR QUAINT SIDE STREETS, YOUR 11th-CENTURY CHURCH.
BUT I DIGRESS.
I MEET UP WITH LOCAL GASTRONOME, BON VIVANT,
AND MAN-ABOUT-TOWN FRANZ LANG.
OKAY, THAT'S A LIE.
ACTUALLY, HE'S A FILM GUY
WHO'S BEEN DRIVING OUR PRODUCTION VAN.
EVERY MINUTE WE'RE NOT ON CAMERA,
WE'VE BEEN ARGUING ABOUT WHO'S BETTER -- TRUFFAUT OR GODARD.
NOW WE COULD FINALLY ARGUE
ABOUT SOMETHING MORE PRACTICAL -- LUNCH.
I'M PARTICULARLY INTERESTED
IN THE TOWER-OF-SHELLFISH THING THAT THEY DO HERE.
I'M OBSESSED WITH THIS.
I LOOK AROUND AND I SEE TWO PEOPLE SITTING THERE
IN FRONT OF THIS ENORMOUS HEAP OF CRAB AND LOBSTER AND OYSTERS.
I'M PLANNING ON JUST HITTING THAT REAL HARD WHEN I'M HERE.
SO, AM I GETTING MY SHELLFISH TOWER TODAY?
FRANZ'S GALLIC SHRUG TELLS ME NO.
[ SIZZLING ]
THIS IS TY BILLIG, AND THE SPECIALTY HERE, CREPES.
GENERALLY, I DON'T MUCH CARE FOR THEM
UNLESS THERE'S, LIKE, SAUSAGE OR HAM OR CHEESE IN THEM.
THE TRADITIONAL IS THE ONE WE CALL COMPLETE,
AND IT'S CHEESE, HAM, AND EGG...
[ DING! ] ...ON THE TOP.
THAT'S GOOD.
THAT'S QUITE BEAUTIFUL. REALLY NICE-LOOKING.
AND IT SMELLS GOOD.
IT'S NICE.
IT'S GOOD, NO?
YEAH.
EVEN PARIS BOY FRANZ --
AND, BELIEVE ME, ALL THESE PARISIAN GUYS
THINK THE SUN SHINES FROM NOWHERE ELSE --
EVEN PARIS BOY ACKNOWLEDGES
THAT BRITTANY IS WHERE THE CREPES ARE BEST.
CREPES ARE ALWAYS BETTER IN BRITTANY
RATHER THAN IN PARIS OR WHEREVER IN THE WORLD.
IT'S VERY THIN AND VERY COMPACT AT THE SAME TIME,
AND IT'S NEVER BURNED OR IT'S NEVER TOO CRISPY.
YEAH, NO KIDDING.
NEXT, ANDOUILLE SAUSAGE, WHICH I LIKE,
MUSTARD, WHICH I ALSO LIKE,
AND SEAWEED,
A COMBINATION SUDDENLY RENDERED LESS THAN PLEASING.
IT'S A VERY UNUSUAL MIX.
IT'S WEIRD. I DON'T KNOW IF I LIKE IT.
SEAWEED AND THE MUSTARD TOGETHER ARE REALLY THROWING ME.
TO BE HONEST, IT SUCKED.
FORTUNATELY THE RILLETTE OF MACKEREL THAT FOLLOWED
WAS FISHY IN A GOOD WAY, UNCOMPLICATED, AND JUST RIGHT.
THAT'S GOOD.
I'M REALLY LIKING THAT, THE RILLETTE OF MACKEREL,
AND IT MAKES SENSE.
SO, THAT WAS ROUND 1.
ROUND 1. NOW FOR ROUND 2.
AND I GUESS A DESSERT CREPE IS UNAVOIDABLE.
AND AS THESE THINGS GO, THIS WAS A REALLY GOOD ONE.
DOUSED WITH BUTTER AND SUGAR AND THE LOCAL APPLE BRANDY.
LOVE THIS ALREADY. IT'S ABOUT AS LOCAL AS IT GETS.
THE GREATEST HITS OF THE FOOD AROUND HERE.
THE APPLES, IT HAS THAT FANTASTIC SALTED BUTTER
THAT'S SO FAMOUS HERE AND SO GOOD.
THE BUTTER IS SO GOOD IN THIS AREA.
I KNOW. IT'S MADDENINGLY GOOD.
I DON'T GENERALLY CARE ABOUT SWEET STUFF,
BUT THIS IS REALLY GOOD.
DID I MENTION THE SHELLFISH TOWER YET?
I'M REALLY CRAZY ABOUT THE SHELLFISH TOWER.
YEAH, LIKE THREE TIMES ALREADY.
THAT WILL BE TOMORROW.
I CAN'T WAIT.
I HAVE A LITTLE CALENDAR IN MY ROOM, AND I'M LIKE, "TOMORROW."
I'M WAITING. I'M WAITING.
AS TELEVISION VIEWERS,
WE'VE BEEN TRAINED TO EXPECT BABBLING NARRATION,
BUT LITTLE I COULD SAY
WOULD GIVE YOU A BETTER IDEA OF WHERE I AM
THAN WHAT YOU ARE ABOUT TO SEE.
STILL THERE?
GOOD.
HANG IN THERE.
GOT IT? YEAH, I THOUGHT SO.
THIS IS THE HOME OF HERROIR'S FAMILY.
THEY'VE BEEN NICE ENOUGH TO PREPARE A MEAL
OF TRADITIONAL BRETON FAVORITES.
[ AURéLIE GASPS ]
OH, WOW. NICE.
SUPERB.
WOW. MAGNIFIQUE!
YEAH!
THIS IS KIG HA FARZ.
IT'S SO MIRED IN HOME-COOKING TRADITION
THAT YOU WON'T FIND IT IN ANY RESTAURANT,
NOT EVEN HERE IN BRITTANY.
THE NAME ITSELF IS IN THE NEARLY FORGOTTEN
REGIONAL LANGUAGE KNOWN AS BRETON.
EN BRETAGNE, BEAUCOUP DE PLATS SONT DE FARZ.
SO, A LOT OF THE DISHES ARE CALLED FARZ.
SO, FOR EXAMPLE, THE DESSERT WE'RE GONNA HAVE IS A FARZ,
AND THIS IS CALLED FARZ, AS WELL.
Woman: "KIG A FARZ."
"KIG" IS MEAT.
RIGHT.
FIRST OF ALL, THE FARZ ITSELF, IT'S A GRAIN, A DOUGH?
Aurélie: IT LOOKS ALMOST LIKE A PANCAKE MIX.
TO BE MORE PRECISE,
IT'S A MIXTURE OF BUCKWHEAT FLOUR,
EGGS, MILK, AND THAT FAMOUS SALTED BUTTER.
THE MIXTURE IS PLACED IN A SACK
AND SIMMERED IN BROTH FOR A COUPLE OF HOURS.
FINALLY, IT'S DRAINED,
AND THE CRUMBLY, DUMPLING-LIKE MIXTURE IS BROKEN UP.
IT'S SERVED WITH THE MEAT OF ONE'S CHOICE.
OF COURSE, NO TRADITIONAL FARMHOUSE MEAL
WOULD BE COMPLETE WITHOUT BOILED MEAT AND VEGETABLES.
IT'S VERY GOOD.
I'M LOVING THIS. MM.
AH, DESSERT.
SO, FOR DESSERT, WE'RE HAVING ANOTHER FARZ
BUT THIS TIME A SWEET ONE AND MADE WITH THE OVEN.
THUS CALLED FARZ AU FOUR, "FOUR" BEING "OVEN."
TRAVELERS NOTE -- IN BRITTANY,
IT'S BEST TO SAY IT'S THE DISH OF EVERYONE'S GRANDMOTHER
AND LEAVE IT AT THAT IF YOU WANT TO AVOID TABLESIDE BRAWLS
AND SENSELESS BUTCHERY.
AND THIS WAS COOKED IN THE OVEN WOOD --
THE WOODBURNING OVEN.
THE COLOR IS GREAT.
YES, IT'S BEAUTIFUL. THAT'S FOR A COOKBOOK.
YEAH.
I LIKE VERY MUCH THE CARAMELIZED SURFACE.
IT'S GOOD, RIGHT, 'CAUSE IT'S ACTUALLY QUITE LIGHT
FOR ALL THESE RICH INGREDIENTS, AND IT KIND OF MELTS.
AND THEN THERE'S THIS CARAMEL.
IT'S REALLY DELICIOUS.
AS EVERYTHING, IT SEEMS, IN BRITTANY,
IT ALL STARTS WITH A BIG CHUNK OF BUTTER IN THE DISH.
MOVING ON, IT'S MADE WITH EGGS, BUTTER,
WHITE AND BROWN SUGAR, AND FLOUR.
MANY COMPARE IT TO A FLAN. ME?
IT'S KIND OF LIKE A SWEET YORKSHIRE PUDDING,
IF YOU PUT THE FAT IN FIRST.
I LOVE THIS KIND OF THING.
I LOVE REALLY RUSTIC FOOD LIKE THIS.
IT'S FANTASTIC.
AND NOW WE'RE GOING BACK TO THIS KIND OF THING.
WITHOUT QUESTION.
FOR ME, THAT'S WHAT IT'S ALL ABOUT.
CHEFS ALWAYS LOVE THIS TYPE OF FOOD.
THIS MEAL WAS EXACTLY WHAT MOST CHEFS I KNOW ADORE.
FOR THEM, A POT-AU-FEU OR SOMETHING
IS PERFECT HAPPINESS.
THEY DON'T WANT TO EAT VERY CONSTRUCTED FOOD.
PEOPLE ARE FINALLY LISTENING.
THEY'RE WILLING TO EAT WHAT CHEFS LIKE.
"HEY, WAIT A MINUTE.
MAYBE THESE CHEFS KNOW SOMETHING."
OH, WONDERFUL MEAL.
THANK YOU. MERCI, MADAME.
MERCI BEAUCOUP.
SUPERB.
NEXT, ALL I CAN SAY IS...
PREPARE YOURSELF. GIRD YOUR LOINS.
TO BE FAIR, I'VE BEEN KIND OF ANNOYING ON THE SUBJECT.
"WHEN DO I GET MY SHELLFISH TOWER?
WHEN DO I GET MY SHELLFISH TOWER?"
TODAY IS THE DAY.
WANT TO EAT THE SAME STUFF, GO TO THE SAME PLACES?
CHECK OUT OUR TRAVEL GUIDES ON...
ALL OTHER BUSINESS CONCLUDED,
ALL THOSE POINTLESSLY PRETTY SHOTS OF ME WALKING AROUND,
SUPPOSEDLY LOST IN DEEP THOUGHTS --
IN THE CAN, DONE.
ONLY ONE SCENE LEFT, AND IT'S AN OPEN ROAD.
Bourdain: FOR ME, WHAT IT'S ALL ABOUT,
IT'S ALL ABOUT A BIG, HEAPING [BLEEP] TOWER OF SHELLFISH.
JUST SHELLFISH.
YOU JUST SIT THERE AND YOU PIG OUT.
I MEAN, IT'S...IT'S WHAT YOU DO IN THESE PARTS.
AND I'VE BEEN LOOKING FORWARD TO THIS SOMETHING FIERCE.
ACTUALLY, TO BE FAIR, I'VE BEEN KIND OF ANNOYING ON THE SUBJECT.
EVERY DAY, IT'S LIKE,
"WHEN DO I GET MY SHELLFISH TOWER?
"WHEN DO I GET MY SHELLFISH TOWER?
WHEN DO I GET MY SHELLFISH TOWER?"
TODAY IS THE DAY.
THE PLACE -- THE PORT OF BéLON. THE RESTAURANT -- CHEZ JACKY.
LET THE MADNESS BEGIN. PREPARE YOURSELF.
GIRD YOUR LOINS. STRAP ON YOUR BIBS.
EH, I DON'T KNOW IF THIS IS GONNA BE ENOUGH.
WE'RE GONNA NEED A BIGGER BOAT.
VOILà.
VOILà.
BON APPé***.
MERCI.
I DON'T KNOW IF THIS IS ENOUGH, FRANKLY.
I'M A LITTLE CONCERNED ABOUT MY PORTION SIZE HERE.
I SAID A BIG TOWER [BLEEP] DAMN IT -- BIG.
WHERE SHOULD WE BEGIN?
I'M GUESSING THE OYSTERS ARE GOOD.
MMM!
AND THEY ARE.
PERHAPS A WHELK.
THESE THINGS.
WHOA, MAN.
IT'S KIND OF LIKE DOING AN ALIEN OR SOMETHING.
WOW. WONDERFUL.
THE HUMBLE PERIWINKLE.
OH, SHE'S NOT PRETTY, BUT SHE'S GOOD.
MMM.
KIND OF LOOKS LIKE A LOOGIE.
AND, IN FACT, THE EXTRACTION PROCESS
IS MUCH LIKE LITTLE TIMMY McMASTERS,
WHO USED TO SIT NEXT TO ME IN SECOND GRADE.
THAT GUY WOULD MINE FOR GOLD.
HE'D HAVE HIS FINGER SO FAR UP HIS NOSE,
IT WAS, LIKE, UP TO THE KNUCKLE.
AND HE'D PULL SOMETHING
THAT LOOKED MUCH LIKE THIS OUT OF HIS SCHNOZ.
HE ATE THAT, TOO.
BUT DIDN'T TASTE LIKE THIS, DID IT, TIMMY?
LANGOUSTINE, A VERY SMALL SPECIES OF LOBSTER.
YANK OFF THE LITTLE ARMS.
[ SHELL CRACKING ]
NICE ACOUSTIC ELEMENT TO THIS DISH.
THE CRUNCH OF SHELLS
AS YOU TEAR INTO TENDER, WHITE MEAT.
OH [ Laughing ] THE PRAWN!
NOT PRETTY...BUT IMPORTANT.
[ SLURPING ]
JAM YOUR FINGER IN THERE AND GET ALL THE GOOD BRAINS OUT.
FOR ME, THE MONEY IS RIGHT HERE, MY FRIEND.
THIS IS REALLY THE ONLY INSTANCE WHEN BACK FAT IS A GOOD THING.
THAT'S SOME GOOD [BLEEP] RIGHT THERE.
NOW ONLY THE SLURPING OF OYSTERS,
THE CRUNCH OF CRAB CLAWS,
THE GENTLE MOPPING SOUND OF BREAD THROUGH CRAB FAT.
AS WITH EACH MOUTHFUL OF RICH, SWEET LOBSTER MEAT,
I CLOSE IN ON THE END.
NOW, I GOT TO ADMIT, AROUND THESE PARTS,
THIS PORTION IS INTENDED FOR TWO PEOPLE.
I THINK I DID PRETTY GOOD WORK HERE.
I LEFT A COUPLE OF CLAMS, BUT, YOU KNOW, CAN'T DO IT ALL.
[ SIGHS ]
THE DAY ENDS AS IT SHOULD --
AT A COLLEGIAL ATMOSPHERE OF MUTUAL RESPECT.
FIRST, FOR THE DEDICATED PROFESSIONALS
WHO WORK BEHIND THE CAMERAS.
Woman: OH, NO!
YOU WERE RIGHT IN THERE, BUDDY.
NEXT, FOR THE FINE SEA CREATURES OF THE REGION
AND FOR THE SURPRISING REALIZATION
THAT GREAT MINDS DO, INDEED, THINK ALIKE --
AT LEAST AS FAR AS CLOTHING CHOICES GO.
THE FOURTH WALL DISSOLVES INTO THE NOT-SO-GENTLE THRUSTINGS
OF THE CAMERAMEN'S ROUGH HANDS GRABBING AT LOBSTER
AND OYSTERS AND THOSE WONDERFUL CRABS
AND SHOVING THEM INTO THEIR GREEDY MAWS.
A SHARED UNDERSTANDING
OF HOW LUCKY WE ARE TO DO WHAT WE DO,
WHATEVER THAT IS.