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HOW HAD I MANAGED TO AVOID IT FOR SO LONG?
THIS COLOSSUS, RIGHT SMACK IN THE MIDDLE OF THE COUNTRY,
EVERYTHING I LOVE ABOUT A CITY --
TALL TOWERS, HARD CORNERS,
AND SHARP ELBOWS, AND OF COURSE, FOOD.
I'D DONE SHOWS IN L.A., BUT L.A.'s A FANTASTIC SPRAWL.
SAN FRANCISCO -- A GREAT TOWN. NEW ORLEANS -- A STATE OF MIND.
BUT CHICAGO -- CHICAGO'S A CITY.
I'M ANTHONY BOURDAIN.
♪ THAT'S RIGHT ♪
I WRITE.
I TRAVEL.
I EAT.
AND I'M HUNGRY FOR MORE.
♪ OOH ♪
♪ YOU GOT TO ♪
♪ GET LOST ♪
-- Captions by VITAC -- www.vitac.com
CAPTIONS PAID FOR BY THE TRAVEL CHANNEL, L.L.C.
CHICAGO IS BIG -- NOT JUST ANY KIND OF BIG --
I AM TALKING MAJOR METROPOLIS BIG.
I LOVE THIS CITY.
IN MY OPINION,
IT IS THE ONLY OTHER REAL METROPOLIS IN AMERICA.
IT MAY HAVE BEEN DUBBED "THE SECOND CITY"
BY AN OBNOXIOUS NEW YORKER,
AND THE CUBS MAY NOT HAVE WON A SERIES
IN LIKE A MILLENNIUM,
BUT EVEN A SHORT TRIP TO CHICAGO,
AND YOU WILL SEE RIGHT AWAY
THAT THIS CITY HAS NEITHER THE INTEREST NOR THE NEED
TO PLAY CATCH-UP WITH ANYBODY.
BUT THIS IS NOT A CHICAGO SHOW OR EVEN A "MY CHICAGO" SHOW.
THIS ISN'T ABOUT THE NEWEST OR THE OLDEST.
IT'S ABOUT UNFINISHED BUSINESS.
OH, MY GOOD LORD.
BY THAT, I MEAN IT'S ABOUT PLACES I HAVE NOT BEEN YET,
THINGS I HAVE NOT EATEN, AND UNPAID DEBTS,
LIKE FRENCH FRIES COOKED IN THE NECTAR OF THE GODS...
DUCK-FAT FRY. MMM.
I MEAN THE STREET-FOOD CLASSIC I'D NEVER EVEN HEARD OF...
LOOK AT THAT THING.
AND IT'S ABOUT THE UNFINISHED BUSINESS
OF CHICAGO-STYLE DEEP-DISH PIZZA,
A CONCOCTION I'VE ALWAYS STRONGLY BELIEVED
TO BE MORE LIKE LASAGNA IN A CRUST
THAN ANYTHING THAT COULD BEAR THE PROUD NAME OF "PIZZA."
I JUST DON'T UNDERSTAND THE CRITERIA YET,
BUT YOU'RE TELLING ME I WILL WHEN I EAT THIS.
SO IF YOU'RE LOOKING FOR A NICE ITALIAN BEEF SCENE,
A BIG HUMMER TO PIZZERIA UNO,
ME HUGGING IT OUT WITH CHARLIE TROTTER,
ALL I CAN SAY IS "THE HILLS" IS STARTING ON MTV
JUST ABOUT...NOW.
IF YOU HURRY, YOU CAN CATCH LAUREN WHAT'S-HER-FACE
SQUEEZING A BLACKHEAD.
EARLY MORNING IN CHICAGO -- TOO EARLY.
MEET PETER ENGLER,
AN EXPERT IN THE ARCANE HISTORY OF CHICAGO STREET FOOD --
AN EXPERT, AS WELL, IN THE FIELD OF MOUSE GENETICS,
TWO AREAS WHICH ONE WOULD HOPE RARELY INTERTWINE.
WHAT DO YOU DO FOR A LIVING?
GENETICS -- MOUSE GENETICS.
WHAT DOES THAT MEAN?
IT'S JUST STUDYING, LIKE, BASIC ASPECTS OF GENE CONTROL,
GENE SILENCING.
NO ***-SEEKING MICE, YOU KNOW, SUPERWEAPONS...
THAT I COULD TARGET AT MY TELEVISION RIVALS
AND PEOPLE WHO *** ME OFF? NO?
WELL, YOU CAN'T FAULT ME FOR ASKING, RIGHT?
PETER'S BEEN SEARCHING OUT AND CHRONICLING
THE HIGHS AND LOWS OF OBSCURE FOOD,
BOTH WEIRD AND SUBLIME FOR OVER 30 YEARS.
IN THE COURSE OF THIS ODYSSEY THROUGH CHICAGO FOODWAYS,
HE STUMBLED ACROSS THE MOTHER-IN-LAW,
THE EVIL STEPBROTHER OF THE HOT DOG --
IN SHORT, IT'S A TAMALE ON A HOT DOG BUN
COVERED WITH CHILI.
I GUESS WHAT I WANT TO KNOW IS,
HOW DID YOU ARRIVE AT THIS SUBJECT?
LIKING THE STUFF IS ONE THING,
TRACKING IT DOWN TO THE SOURCE WAS ANOTHER.
WOULD YOU SAY THIS IS A HOBBY
OR A CONSUMING PASSION OR AN AFFLICTION?
ALL OF THE ABOVE?
AND IN THIS CASE, THE SOURCE FOR TAMALES IN SOUTH CHICAGO
IS THIS PLACE -- THE TOM TOM TAMALE FACTORY.
OPENED IN 1937,
TOM TOM TAMALES HAS BEEN CRANKING OUT
CLOSE TO 39,000 TAMALES PER WEEK.
THROUGH THE MAGIC OF FOOD PROCESSING,
THE VATS OF COOKED CORNMEAL AND COOKED GROUND BEEF
ARE COMBINED IN A KIND OF EXTRUDER,
AND OUT COME PERFECTLY FORMED TAMALES --
ANOTHER MARK IN THE PLUS COLUMN FOR TUBE-SHAPED FOOD.
ONE MIGHT NOT IMMEDIATELY ASSOCIATE
THE TAMALE WITH CHICAGO,
BUT IT IS, IN FACT, AN ENTRENCHED PART
OF THE SOUTH SIDE FOOD SCENE.
IT IS THOUGHT TO HAVE BEEN INTRODUCED
EITHER BY AFRICAN-AMERICANS
MIGRATING FROM THE MISSISSIPPI DELTA IN THE EARLY 1900s
OR POPPED UP AROUND THE SAME TIME AS THE HOT DOG
AT THE 1893 CHICAGO WORLD'S FAIR.
SO, YOUR SEARCH FOR THE ELUSIVE MOTHER-IN-LAW
BROUGHT YOU HERE?
THIS PROBABLY WAS MY FIRST MOTHER-IN-LAW.
REALLY?
YEAH, THIS IS EXACTLY WHAT STARTED ME
ON THE WHOLE CHICAGO FOOD-HISTORY THING.
AT FAT JOHNNIE'S, THE TAMALE IS EMPLOYED
TO MAXIMUM GUT-BUSTING EFFECT,
EITHER AS THE DEADLY TAMALE SUNDAE
OR THE FAR MORE LETHAL MOTHER-IN-LAW
OR THE JUST PLAIN SUICIDAL MIGHTY DOG.
AND THEN, AS FAR AS BEVERAGE,
WE MENTIONED SOMETHING CALLED A SUICIDE?
YEAH, THE SUICIDE IS BASICALLY
JUST A MIX OF ALL THE BEVERAGES.
THEY JUST TAKE THE CUP AND JUST GO DOWN THE LINE,
FILLING IT UP, SO IT'S DIFFERENT EVERY TIME.
OH, YEAH, OKAY, GOT TO HAVE THAT.
CAN WE GET A MIGHTY DOG,
A MOTHER-IN-LAW, AND TWO SUICIDES?
YOU WANT EVERYTHING ON THEM?
EVERYTHING, RIGHT? YEAH. THE WORKS.
BEHOLD THE MOTHER-IN-LAW --
DISTURBING IN DESIGN, YET STRANGELY COMPELLING.
YEAH, THAT'S -- THAT'S A MEAL.
I WENT ALL-OUT AND GOT MINE WITH THE WORKS.
STRUCTURALLY, THIS POSES SOME CHALLENGES.
YEAH.
OOH, THAT'S DELICIOUS.
REMINDS ME OF, LIKE, SORT OF A ROOT BEER GONE WRONG.
IT'S LIKE EVERYTHING BAD THAT EVER HAPPENED TO ME
IN MY CHILDHOOD IN ONE BEVERAGE.
ACCORDING TO THE JOKE,
MOTHER-IN-LAWS AREN'T EASY TO HANDLE,
AND THIS ONE'S NO EXCEPTION.
I'M LIKING THIS. THIS IS REALLY GOOD STONER FOOD.
NOW, THIS MONSTROSITY, ON THE OTHER HAND -- THE MIGHTY DOG.
DO YOU WANT TO TRY SOME?
GOOD LORD. LOOK AT THAT THING.
IT'S TAMALE AND DOG.
THIS -- THIS IS JUST WRONG. MIGHTY DOG?
YOU WON'T BE FEELING TOO MIGHTY
IN ABOUT AN HOUR FROM NOW, MY FRIEND, OH, NO.
HOT DOG AND TAMALE AND CHILI AND CHEESE TOGETHER?
HOLY JEEBUS. I'LL DO IT FOR MY NETWORK.
NO, THAT'S WORLDS COLLIDE, SEEING YOUR PARENTS HAVE SEX,
YOUR GRANDMA BREAK-DANCING, DE NIRO AND PACINO TOGETHER --
IT NEVER WORKS, AND IT JUST SHOULDN'T.
THE TAMALE AND THE HOT DOG -- THEY DON'T BELONG TOGETHER.
YEAH.
NO, IT'S JUST -- NO. NO, WRONG.
OH, I'M GONNA HATE MYSELF IN THE MORNING.
I HATE MYSELF ALREADY, BUT THAT WAS REALLY GOOD.
IT'S THE CLASSIC, SO...
IT'S CALLED A MOTHER-IN-LAW
BECAUSE IT'S SUPPOSED TO GIVE YOU INDIGESTION,
THE WAY ONLY A MOTHER-IN-LAW CAN.
NOW, THAT MAY BE,
BUT MY MOTHER-IN-LAW NEVER HELD ME HOSTAGE
ON THE TOILET FOR 20 MINUTES.
I WISH I COULD SAY THE SAME FOR THIS ONE.
CHICAGO IS FAMOUS FOR MANY THINGS.
NOT ALL OF THEM ARE WORTH CELEBRATING.
I'VE ALWAYS FELT THAT THE SO-CALLED "DEEP-DISH PIZZA"
WAS A CRIME AGAINST FOOD.
IT WASN'T PIZZA AT ALL, I BELIEVED --
INSTEAD, SOME KIND OF MIDWESTERN MUTATION
OF A PIZZA.
ACCORDING TO LOUISA CHU --
FRIEND, COOK, AND OLD ASSOCIATE FROM SUCH SHOWS AS THIS ONE --
I'M RIGHT, BUT ALSO WRONG.
THERE IS A PLACE, SHE INSISTS,
THAT'S AN EXCEPTION TO THE RULE,
A DEEP-DISH PIZZA THAT EVEN I,
WHO HATE THE VERY IDEA OF SUCH A THING, WILL LOVE.
DOWN A DARK SUBURBAN STREET
IN THE MORTON GROVE NEIGHBORHOOD
OF CHICAGO IS BURT'S PLACE.
I'M A NEW YORKER, AND I'M A NEW YORKER
WITH A DEEP CULTURAL AVERSION
TO PIZZA THAT IS NOT NEW YORK PIZZA.
I KNEW WE'D GET ONE OF THESE IN HERE SOMETIME.
BURT KATZ AND HIS WIFE, SHARON,
HAVE BEEN MAKING A DELIGHTFULLY DELICIOUS ARTISANAL PRODUCT
FOR OVER 40 YEARS.
[ RINGS ]
I'M 71, FOR CHRIST'S SAKE,
AND STILL WORKING LIKE A ***.
OF COURSE, I IMMEDIATELY LOVE BURT AND SHARON,
TWO ICONOCLASTIC OBSESSIVES
WHO ARE CLEARLY SERIOUS ABOUT THEIR CRAFT AND THEIR PLACE.
BUT SOMEHOW IT STILL JUST DOESN'T MAKE SENSE.
I'M BEFUDDLED.
CHICAGO-STYLE PAN PIZZA OR DEEP-DISH PIZZA --
WHAT IS, PRESUMABLY, GOOD?
GENERALLY SPEAKING, IT'S GIANT AND FILLING.
I MEAN, WE'RE TALKING ABOUT, LIKE, PRACTICALLY, YOU KNOW,
A CASSEROLE INSIDE OF A PIZZA.
SO IT'S LIKE A POTPIE,
WHERE WE CAN BASICALLY JAM IN MORE CHEESE
AND MORE FILLING FOR THE HERD.
THAT'S NOT A PROMISING BEGINNING.
I JUST DON'T UNDERSTAND THE CRITERIA YET,
BUT YOU'RE TELLING ME I WILL WHEN I EAT THIS.
YOU WILL.
IT'S ABOUT THE CRUST.
IT IS ABOUT THE CRUST. IT IS THE MAIN THING HERE.
IT'S CARAMELIZED ON THE OUTSIDE --
I MEAN, COMPLETELY AROUND.
ON THE BOTTOM AND UP.
YEAH, AND THE FILLINGS ARE TOP-NOTCH-QUALITY FRESH.
FRESH SPINACH, MUSHROOMS, PEPPERS, BELL PEPPERS.
I GET ALONG WITH PIZZA. I DON'T KNOW.
WE'VE BECOME FRIENDS. I GET ALONG WITH IT.
HE'S LIKE THE CHEF IN PARIS WHO GOES OUT AND BUYS,
LIKE, HIS INGREDIENTS IN SMALL BATCHES EVERY SINGLE DAY.
THAT'S SOMETHING AN ITALIAN WOULD DO,
BUT THIS IS NOT REALLY AN ITALIAN CREATION.
BURT'S SORT OF TAKEN, LIKE, THE BEST QUALITIES
OF A CLASSIC ITALIAN PIZZA AND MARRIED THEM
WITH A CHICAGO-STYLE DEEP-DISH PIZZA.
I LOVE IT.
I LOVE THIS STUFF.
I'M STILL NOT UNDERSTANDING.
LOOK AT THOSE THINGS. THEY'RE GIGANTIC.
WHERE'S ALL THIS PIZZA GOING?
WELL, OKAY. I GET IT.
THESE ARE NOT SMALL PEOPLE, ARE THEY?
PEOPLE ARE CRAZY FOR THIS -- HUNDREDS OF DIE-HARD FANS.
NO LESS SERIOUS A FOOD PUBLICATION THAN SAVEUR
PUT BURT'S ON THE COVER.
TONIGHT, THE PLACE HAPPENS TO BE CHOKED
WITH HANDSOMELY PLUS-SIZED ONLINE FOOD ENTHUSIASTS
SHOVELING THEIR FOURTH AND FIFTH
FLAGSTONE-SIZED PORTIONS
DOWN THEIR MAGNIFICENTLY NERDLY GULLETS.
WE COULD TALK ABOUT IT, AND WE CAN DISCUSS IT --
BUT UNTIL WE EAT IT, IT'S ALL MEANINGLESS BLATHER.
I'M GETTING REALLY HUNGRY.
ME TOO. I'M STARVING.
[ Chuckling ] OH, YEAH.
THANK YOU.
THAT'S A THING OF BEAUTY.
YEAH, THAT'S REALLY NICE. I GET IT.
I UNDERSTAND IT NOW.
IN TRADITIONAL ITALIAN PIZZA AND NEW YORK UTILITY PIZZA,
YOU START AT THE FILLET IN THE CENTER AND YOU WORK OUT.
THIS, YOU WORK IN EXACTLY THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION.
WELL, THAT'S WHY A LOT OF PEOPLE BRING THEIR KIDS IN HERE,
BECAUSE KIDS DON'T EAT CRUST,
AND THE PARENTS GET ALL THE CRUST.
WAS THERE A BURNING-BUSH MOMENT WHERE YOU DECIDED,
FIRST, "I REALLY NEED TO MAKE PAN PIZZA,
AND I ALSO NEED TO MAKE IT REALLY, REALLY GOOD"?
I DON'T THINK I EVER THOUGHT OF IT.
I LIKE BEING MY OWN BOSS -- I'VE WORKED CORPORATE.
FOR ABOUT SIX YEARS, I WORKED CORPORATE.
IT WAS THE WORST YEARS OF MY LIFE.
I GUESS MY QUESTION IS -- YOU'RE DOING GOOD.
PEOPLE -- I MEAN, COVER OF THE SAVEUR.
I'M SURE THE OPPORTUNITY HAS ARISEN AT SOME POINT
THAT YOU COULD, ESSENTIALLY, WALK AWAY FROM THE BUSINESS
AND WALK AROUND IN A SARONG FOR THE REST OF YOUR LIFE.
I LIKE WHAT I DO. IT'S MY CUSTOMERS.
I GOT GREAT CUSTOMERS.
IT TAKES THE STRESS OF THE LAST TWO HOURS
OF BEING A NUTBAG IN THE KITCHEN --
YOU CAN JUST SIT AND LAUGH AND KID AROUND.
IT'S WONDERFUL.
SOME PEOPLE OPEN A BUSINESS FOR MONEY.
THAT'S THE WRONG WAY.
IF I DIDN'T LIKE IT, I'D WALK AWAY FROM IT.
HANDS DOWN, I'D WALK AWAY FROM IT.
I GOT TO ADMIT I LIKE THIS STUFF -- A LOT.
I THINK MY PROBLEM WAS JUST CALLING IT "PIZZA."
WHATEVER THIS IS, I LIKE IT.
ENTER CHICAGO'S
ULTRASOPHISTICATED DINING SCENE.
IT'S A BRAVE NEW WORLD OF CULINARY INNOVATION.
YOU EVER WANT TO EAT ROADKILL?
EVERYTHING IS DEFINITELY NOT WHAT IT SEEMS...
IT'S DELICIOUS.
...WHEN WE COME BACK.
SOUTH SIDE. [ SPEAKING INDISTINCTLY ]
CHICAGO'S SOUTH SIDE --
A GRITTY, HARDSCRABBLE INDUSTRIAL SCENE,
EVEN TO THIS DAY.
FRIEND AND CHICAGO FOOD BLOGGER LOUISA CHU
IS TAKING ME TO A PLACE THAT DATES BACK TO THE HEYDAY
OF THIS AREA'S INDUSTRIAL PAST.
ON THE BANK OF THE CALUMET RIVER,
SO FAR SOUTH IT'S ALMOST IN INDIANA,
CALUMET FISHERIES HAS SURVIVED THE EXODUS
OF MUCH OF THE INDUSTRY IN THIS AREA,
THANKS LARGELY TO THE EXCELLENCE
OF THEIR SMOKED FISH
AND THE LOYALTY IT'S INSTILLED IN GENERATION AFTER GENERATION
OF PEOPLE WHO APPRECIATE THE GOOD STUFF.
THE ACTUAL SMOKE SHACK --
IT KIND OF LOOKS LIKE A CROSS BETWEEN AN OUTHOUSE
AND, LIKE, THE INCINERATOR AT A SMALL-TOWN ANIMAL SHELTER.
WAIT A MINUTE. ARE YOU TELLING ME
I'M ACTUALLY GONNA SEE FISH SMOKING IN THIS THING?
ACTUAL SMOKING.
THAT'S ALWAYS A GOOD THING ON FISH-SMOKING SCENES.
WE FOUND THAT OUT IN SUCH PAINFUL EPISODES AS "ICELAND."
AND IS THIS LIKE A CHICAGO THING?
IS THIS WHAT CHICAGOANS DO?
FOR GENERATIONS -- I MEAN, LIKE, YOU KNOW,
BACK SINCE THE '20s.
PEOPLE WILL COME SUNDAY MORNINGS FOR LIKE AN HOUR
TO COME HERE FOR THE SMOKED FISH.
IT'S DESTINATION SMOKED FISH.
DESTINATION SMOKED FISH? LET'S DO IT.
THEY HAVE A SMOKEHOUSE IN THE BACK
THAT ACTUALLY HAS SMOKE COMING OUT OF IT -- A GOOD SIGN.
AND THERE'S A GUY TENDING TO A MASSIVE
CHERRYWOOD-AND-WHITE-OAK FIRE -- ALSO GOOD.
AND THERE IS FISH -- EXCELLENT FISH.
SINCE 1928, THIS SQUAT BRICK BUILDING HAS BEEN CHURNING OUT
SOME OF THE FINEST AND FRESHEST SMOKED FISH
YOU'LL FIND ANYWHERE,
AS WELL AS A REPRESENTATIVE TOUR OF THE FRIALATED ARTS,
LIKE THESE LOVELY FRIED SMELTS, FOR INSTANCE,
WHICH I'LL DEFINITELY HAVE SOME OF,
AND SOME OF THAT AND THAT, AND DO NOT FORGET THE SHRIMP.
ALL RIGHT, WE'LL SEE YOU IN A MINUTE.
WE'RE COMING BACK FOR MORE. WE'RE GONNA WAIT FOR THE SHRIMP.
NO WHITE TABLECLOTHS HERE -- IN FACT, NO TABLES AT ALL.
BACK IN THE OLD DAYS,
SAILORS AND LONGSHOREMEN WOULD PULL UP THEIR BOATS.
TODAY, IT'S MOSTLY CARS.
FORTUNATELY, LOUISA AND I
HAVE OUR OWN KIND OF A BOAT TO DINE IN.
WELL, THE SALMON'S REALLY GOOD.
YEAH.
HERE'S SOME OF THE TROUT.
HERE. HAVE SOME SALMON.
NO SKIMPING ON THE PORTIONS --
JUST A BIG FREAKING SLAB OF BEAUTIFULLY SMOKED FISH.
I'LL TELL YOU --
THIS TROUT IS REALLY, REALLY EXTRAORDINARY.
THIS IS REALLY GREAT STUFF.
THE SMOKEHOUSE HERE IS REALLY
WHAT SETS CALUMET FISHERIES APART,
BECAUSE THEY ACTUALLY DO IT LITERALLY RIGHT NEXT DOOR,
RIGHT OUTSIDE, YOU KNOW, BEHIND THE GREASE DUMPSTER.
WELL, I FIND THAT AN ENCOURAGING SIGN.
IT TASTES LIKE, WELL, FISH AND SMOKE AND FISH OIL.
THAT OILY, SMOKY, FISHY SCENT --
WE'RE GONNA GO BACK TO THE HOTEL LATER.
WE'LL BE WALKING AROUND WITH LIKE 10 OR 12 CATS,
YOU KNOW, WALKING AFTER US.
WE'LL LOOK LIKE REGINA SCHRAMBLING.
WHO DOESN'T ENJOY THE ARCANE DELIGHTS
OF A FOOD-BLOGGER JOKE?
BUT WHAT I'M REALLY LOOKING FORWARD TO ARE THESE --
SMOKED SHRIMP STRAIGHT OUT OF THE SMOKER.
THIS IS ONE OF THOSE SITUATIONS I'M THINKING,
"THAT DOESN'T SOUND LIKE A GOOD IDEA."
"I'M AGAINST IT." BUT WOW. GOOD.
IT'S SMOKED, BUT, YOU KNOW,
THEY'VE GOT IT CHILLED SO IT'S VERY REFRESHING.
YEAH, IT'S NOT DRY.
THE RIGHT AMOUNT OF SMOKE MAKES SOMETHING BETTER AND SWEETER.
THIS IS MOIST AND DELICIOUS. YOU CAN TASTE THE SHRIMP.
IT'S GREAT.
IT'S KIND OF LIKE THE POOR MAN'S LOBSTER.
ALL MEMORY OF OUR FAILED
SMOKED-FISH SCENE IN ICELAND DISAPPEARS,
WASHED AWAY IN A CLEANSING MIST OF WOOD SMOKE AND FISH OIL,
ANOTHER TV WRONG MADE RIGHT.
WHAT MAKES A CITY A GENUINE METROPOLIS,
A GREAT PLACE TO VISIT, AND A GREAT PLACE TO JUST BE?
IT'S A DIFFICULT THING TO QUANTIFY.
EASY ANSWERS MIGHT INCLUDE MAGNIFICENT ARCHITECTURE,
GREAT PUBLIC SPACES, EFFICIENT MASS TRANSIT,
AND TWO BASEBALL TEAMS,
BUT IT'S ALSO A CONFLUENCE OF THE OBSERVABLE AND INTANGIBLE.
AND ONE VERY TANGIBLE ELEMENT
IS A VIBRANT, MULTILAYERED,
AND FIERCELY CREATIVE FOOD SCENE.
CHICAGO'S AT THE FOREFRONT -- IN FACT, THEY'RE WAY OUT FRONT
IN THE AREA OF AVANT-GARDE, HYPERCREATIVE CHEFS
LIKE GRANT ACHATZ AND THIS GUY, HOMARO CANTU, AT MOTO.
WELL, IT ALL BEGAN WITH MY FATHER'S LAWN MOWER
WHEN I WAS 12 YEARS OLD.
IN ORDER TO STOP HAVING TO MOW THE LAWN,
I TOOK IT APART AND PURPOSELY RUINED IT,
BUT I STARTED LEARNING HOW --
THE MECHANICS OF A COMBUSTION ENGINE.
THAT'S SORT OF WHAT WE HAVE GOING ON HERE
IS SORT OF THE MECHANICS OF FOOD,
AND JUST LOOKING AT THINGS FROM A VERY TWISTED PERSPECTIVE,
BUT VERY DELICIOUS AT THE SAME TIME.
DO YOU SEE YOURSELF AS PART OF A GENRE
OR A SCHOOL OR A GROUP?
I LIKE TO THINK OF IT AS CULINARY TERRORISM.
YOU JUST GOT TO DEAL WITH IT.
PART CHEF, PART MAD SCIENTIST,
AND ALL-AROUND CULINARY WISEASS,
CANTU'S BEEN DECONSTRUCTING, FREEZING,
AND TORCHING STUFF IN HIS KITCHEN
SINCE IT OPENED IN 2004.
AT MOTO, YOU KNOW THE MINUTE YOU GET YOUR MENU
THAT ANY NOTION OF A TRADITIONAL HIGH-END MEAL
ARE OUT THE WINDOW.
THE FIRST THING THAT YOU ACTUALLY EAT HERE IS YOUR MENU.
YOU ACTUALLY ORDER OFF OF THAT MENU,
AND THEN YOU EAT IT WITH A COMPLIMENTARY GLASS OF CHAMPAGNE,
LITTLE CRèME FRAîCHE, SOME CAVIAR.
IT'S REALLY GOOD.
IT'S YOUR BIRTHDAY --
WE GIVE YOU A BIRTHDAY CARD THAT TASTES LIKE A BIRTHDAY CAKE.
THIS IS SORT OF THE THEATRICAL PART OF THAT.
WE STILL FOLLOW SOME RULES, BUT AT THE SAME TIME,
WE'RE TRYING TO BREAK SOME RULES A LITTLE BIT
AND JUST HAVE FUN WITH IT.
IT'S A PHILOSOPHY THAT,
WHEN COMBINED WITH CANTU'S KNACK FOR DECONSTRUCTION
AND REINVENTION, MAKES FOR SOME UNEXPECTED
AND INITIALLY UNSETTLING MENU OPTIONS.
YOU EVER WANT TO EAT ROADKILL?
ACTUALLY, I PROBABLY HAVE EATEN ROADKILL AT SOME POINT.
BEET PUREE, MUSHROOMS SHAPED INTO BRAIN FORM,
SHREDDED DUCK, AND PUFFED RICE SHAPED LIKE MAGGOTS --
A KIND OF HIGH-END-DINING VERSION
OF THE OLD "3 MUSKETEERS BAR IN THE SWIMMING POOL" GAG.
IT'S DELICIOUS.
WITH THIS DISH, WE'RE TRYING TO GO
FOR THE MOST DISGUSTING THING YOU'VE EVER LOOKED AT,
BUT TASTES REALLY GOOD.
"MOSCOW ON THE HUDSON" --
THERE'S A SCENE OF ROBIN WILLIAMS
NAKED IN A BATHTUB --
THAT IS THE MOST DISGUSTING THING YOU COULD EVER, EVER SEE.
THAT SOUNDS PRETTY DELICIOUS, ACTUALLY.
[ LAUGHS ]
THANKFULLY, THERE'S NO NUDITY
OR EXCESSIVE BODY HAIR IN THIS NEXT DISH.
NO, I'M NOT FINALLY HAVING THAT LONG-PROMISED FLASHBACK.
MMM.
THIS CUBAN CIGAR IS ACTUALLY CANTU'S PLAYFUL TAKE
ON A CUBAN SANDWICH, WRAPPED IN A DRIED CABBAGE LEAF
WITH A SESAME BRAZIL-NUT GARNISH.
YOU'RE ASSUMING YOUR CUSTOMERS HAVE A SENSE OF HUMOR.
THAT'S A LOT TO ASK OF YOUR CUSTOMERS.
EVEN IF THEY'RE REAL DEADBEATS,
THEY'RE GONNA HAVE A SENSE OF HUMOR AFTER THIS.
HOMARO'S LIKE THE KID IN SCHOOL WHO SHOT SPITBALLS
AND MADE FART JOKES AT THE BACK OF THE CLASS
BUT STILL KNEW ALL THE ANSWERS
TO THE MATH PROBLEMS ON THE BOARD.
WHILE IT APPEARS HE TAKES NOTHING SERIOUSLY,
THE FLAVORS
AND RATHER EXTRAVAGANTLY OUT-THERE TECHNIQUES
SAY OTHERWISE.
SO, THE NEXT THING THAT WE GOT GOING ON HERE
IS A BARBECUE COURSE.
FREEZE-DRIED COLESLAW THAT MELTS IN YOUR MOUTH
AND A BARBECUE BEEF SHORT RIB
THAT'S BEEN COOKED FOR 16 HOURS,
TOPPED WITH A CORN-BREAD PUREE.
SO, A VERY SIMPLE-LOOKING DISH
THAT'S ACTUALLY VERY COMPLEX TO MAKE.
AGAIN, DELICIOUS. AND, YOU KNOW, YOU'RE RIGHT.
IT'S THE CLASSIC BARBECUE EXPERIENCE, BUT NOTHING CLASSIC.
WOULD THIS WORK IN NEW YORK?
YOU KNOW, A LOT OF PEOPLE HAVE ASKED ME THAT,
AND I GOT TO SAY NO.
MOST OF THE PEOPLE THAT WE GET HERE --
THEY JUST WANT TO SIT DOWN FOR THREE OR FOUR HOURS
AND CHILL OUT -- THEY GOT NOTHING TO DO TOMORROW.
IT'S A MUCH DIFFERENT DEMOGRAPHIC THAN IN NEW YORK,
WHERE THERE'S JUST WHEELERS AND DEALERS
ALWAYS MOVING FROM ONE PLACE TO THE NEXT.
SO, THE THINGS THAT WE'RE ALL FAMILIAR WITH --
YOU KNOW, ROADKILL, BARBECUE -- VERY SIMPLE --
THE CUBAN MISSILE CRISIS.
A NUCLEAR APOCALYPSE, ROADKILL, AND BARBECUE --
THAT'S REALLY WHAT AMERICA'S ALL ABOUT.
HIGH-END DINING WITH A SENSE OF A HUMOR
AND A CHEF WHO'S NOT AFRAID
TO TELL HIS CUSTOMERS TO LIGHTEN UP.
IT'S THE "MANCOW" SHOW.
ANTHONY BOURDAIN IS HERE, THE...
IT'S PITHY OBSERVATIONS AND ALL-AROUND DROLL HUMOR.
YOU KNOW, WHAT HE LOVES TO EAT, IS DOG [BLEEP] YOU EVER SEEN HIM?
YOU'RE REALLY PUNISHING ME TODAY, MAN.
QUALITY TIME WITH CHICAGO'S OWN SHOCK JOCK WHEN WE COME BACK.
THERE ARE MANY THINGS THAT A CITY JUST HAS TO HAVE
IN ORDER TO CALL ITSELF A TRUE METROPOLIS.
HAVING YOUR OWN OBNOXIOUS,
NATIONALLY SYNDICATED SHOCK JOCK
IS PROBABLY NOT ONE OF THOSE THINGS.
BUT CHICAGO HAS ONE JUST THE SAME.
MANCOW MULLER, LIKE HIM OR NOT, ALSO A CHICAGO INSTITUTION.
IT'S THE "MANCOW" SHOW.
ANTHONY BOURDAIN -- HIS HIT TV SHOW
IS CALLED "NO RESERVATIONS" -- THEY ARE FILMING.
AND MANCOW'S MORNING MADHOUSE HAS, FOR YEARS,
FOR BETTER OR WORSE, FULFILLED THAT REQUIREMENT.
ANTHONY BOURDAIN IS HERE, THE GREAT CHEF.
YOU GUYS EVER SEEN HIM ON TV?
YOU KNOW WHAT HE LOVES TO EAT, IS DOG [BLEEP]
HE TRAVELS AROUND THE WORLD AND EATS DOG [BLEEP]
EVERY TIME I WATCH THAT SHOW, YOU'RE EATING [BLEEP]
SERIOUSLY, YOU HAVE EATEN A LOT OF...
MANCOW IS A PROFESSIONAL --
HOW SHALL I PUT THIS? -- [BLEEP]
YOU EVER EAT A MUDHOLE, ANTHONY?
I SAW AN EPISODE WHERE YOU WERE EATING
A WILD BOAR'S MUDHOLE.
THE WORKING MAN'S *** CAVETT,
ALWAYS AT THE READY TO PROBE THE SUBTLETIES
OF THE GREAT ISSUES OF THE DAY.
WHAT ETHNIC FOOD IS HOT RIGHT NOW?
I'M KIND OF WAITING FOR LEBANESE OR ETHIOPIAN --
ETHIOPIAN -- WHAT IS THAT --
A BONE WITH A BUNCH OF FLIES ON IT?
WHAT IS IT -- A PIECE OF RICE IN YOUR THROAT?
NO, THERE'S SOME REALLY GOOD SPICY, TASTY STUFF.
MAN, I HATE INDIAN FOOD.
I AM CONVINCED -- FROM INDIA --
I'M CONVINCED THAT INDIAN FOOD IS SIMPLY GARBAGE.
CHEESE IS GOOD ON EVERYTHING, THOUGH.
OKAY, WE'RE GETTING INTO SOME TRULY EGREGIOUS
AND UNPARDONABLE TERRITORY HERE.
MAYBE WE SHOULD JUST STICK TO CHICAGO.
WHAT'S THE MOTHER-IN-LAW SANDWICH
YOU WERE TELLING ME ABOUT?
THIS MAY BE THE GREATEST UNIQUELY CHICAGO FOOD INVENTION.
THE MOTHER-IN-LAW SANDWICH?
YEAH, IT'S A SOUTH SIDE THING, BEEN GOING ON FOR YEARS,
AND IT'S BASICALLY A TAMALE ON A HOT DOG ROLL WITH CHILI.
IT'S REALLY GOOD.
TAMALES AREN'T FROM CHICAGO.
WELL, THEY APPEARED HERE, APPARENTLY,
AROUND THE TURN OF THE CENTURY.
BUT AFTER A HARD DAY OF [BLEEP] JOKES,
MANCOW'S ACTUALLY A VERY DIFFERENT, EVEN THOUGHTFUL GUY.
ONCE THE RADIO VOICE GETS PUT AWAY,
YOU FIND OUT THAT HIS FAVORITE MOVIE
IS THE CAROL REED/ORSON WELLES CLASSIC "THE THIRD MAN,"
THAT HE'S A LOYAL FRIEND,
LIKES KIDS, RAINBOWS, PLUSHIES, LONG WALKS ON THE BEACH,
A LITTLE MOZART WITH A BAROLO,
AND READING JANE AUSTEN IN FRONT OF A ROARING FIRE.
EVIDENCE OF MANCOW'S KINDER, GENTLER NATURE --
WE GO FOR DINNER AT THE SILVER PALM
FOR A CREATION SUPREME AMONG AMERICAN SANDWICHES,
A BEAST WITH THE TANTALIZING NAME "THREE LITTLE PIGS."
I TALKED TO FRIENDS HERE, AND I ASKED,
"WHERE SHOULD WE EAT?"
OR I TELL THEM WHERE I'M GOING TO EAT OR GOING TO DRINK.
THEY MENTION PLACES THAT ARE ALL OVER.
IT'S EASY TO GET AROUND HERE,
AND WE DO SEARCH OUT THE BEST HOT DOG.
WE DO SEARCH OUT A DECENT PIECE OF PIZZA,
A CHICAGO BEEF SANDWICH.
AND WE ARE WILLING TO TRAVEL TO GET THE BEST.
WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN NORTH SIDE AND SOUTH SIDE?
EDUCATION.
[ LAUGHS ]
THE NORTH SIDERS HAVE MORE MONEY,
AND THEIR EDUCATION'S A LITTLE BIT BETTER.
THEY ARE CUBS FANS.
THE SOX FANS ARE YOUR SOUTH SIDERS,
LITTLE BIT LOWER INCOME BRACKET,
BUT SALT-OF-THE-EARTH PEOPLE,
COMMON-SENSE PEOPLE THAT THE NORTH SIDERS DON'T HAVE.
GENERALITIES ASIDE, IT IS TRUE THAT,
LIKE MOST NORTH SIDE RESTAURANTS,
YOU WON'T BE ABLE TO FIND A MOTHER-IN-LAW SANDWICH HERE
OR ANYTHING DROWNING IN CHILI, FOR THAT MATTER.
BUT YOU WILL FIND A SELECTION
OF REINVENTED SUPPER-CLUB CLASSICS
LIKE SHRIMP COCKTAIL AND FLINTSTONE-SIZED PORTIONS
OF BABY BACK RIBS AND ONION RINGS.
OH, MY GOD.
OH!
THIS IS AN APPETIZER, BY THE WAY.
THE ONION RINGS ARE FAMOUS.
OH, MY GOD.
AND A SANDWICH THAT DEFIES ALL BELIEF OR DECENCY.
ALL RIGHT, SAVE ROOM, MAN. ALL RIGHT.
INNOCUOUSLY NAMED "THREE LITTLE PIGS,"
ONE THING IS FOR CERTAIN --
THERE IS NOTHING LITTLE ABOUT IT.
ONE OF OUR BARTENDERS CREATED IT ON A SLOW NIGHT.
SMOKED HAM, BREADED PORK CUTLET,
TWO STRIPS OF BACON AND TWO FRIED EGGS.
BLANKETED IN A THICK COATING OF GRUYèRE,
TOPPED WITH EGGS, AND SERVED ON A BRIOCHE BUN --
BEHOLD THE THREE LITTLE PIG SANDWICH.
JEEBUS.
OH, MY GOD!
SUCK ON THIS, PAUL McCARTNEY.
LOOK AT THE CROSS SECTION OF THIS SANDWICH.
[ Laughing ] OH, MY GOD!
HOLY [BLEEP]
THIS IS JUST [BLEEP] NUTS.
THIS IS, YOU KNOW, THIS IS A WORK OF GENIUS...
IN AN EVIL WAY.
I LOVE AN EGG ON TOP OF ANYTHING.
I'M WEIRD LIKE THAT.
I'M A TOTAL EGG ***.
SOMEHOW, IN MY CITY,
YOU'VE INTRODUCED ME TO MY NEW FAVORITE SANDWICH.
THIS IS -- HOW DID THAT HAPPEN?
WOW.
UNBELIEVABLE --
A TWO-*** SYMPHONY OF PORK, CHEESE, FAT, AND STARCH.
OH!
THIS SANDWICH MERITS PROPER RECOGNITION.
BROTHER.
BUDDY.
MY FRIEND.
MY GOD.
THIS IS EVIL IN THE BEST POSSIBLE WAY.
TO THE THREE S's -- SEX, SINATRA, AND YOUR SANDWICH.
WOW.
I HAVE TO GET A LITTLE FURTHER UP
THE MEANS OF PRODUCTION HERE.
WHERE IS THE OWNER OF THIS ESTABLISHMENT?
THAT SANDWICH IS THE GREATEST SANDWICH IN AMERICA.
THIS IS THE APEX --
THIS IS THE APEX OF THE SANDWICH-MAKING ART.
EVERYTHING YOU NEED AND MORE.
IT IS A LITTLE OVER THE TOP.
THIS IS WHAT A BIG CITY SHOULD BE ABOUT, YOU KNOW?
I MEAN, IT'S ABOUT OVERKILL.
YEP.
YOU COULD NOT FIND A BETTER EXAMPLE
OF AN OVERKILL SANDWICH THAN THAT.
THIS IS THE SANDWICH THAT DREAMS ARE MADE OF.
THAT, MY FRIENDS, I APPRECIATE.
CHEERS.
IF CHICAGO WASN'T ALREADY A FINE-DINING DESTINATION,
THIS WOULD PRETTY MUCH SETTLE THE MATTER.
Chu: OH, MY GOSH.
THAT'S THE WAY A CLAM SHOULD TASTE.
CHICAGO HAS LONG BEEN A MAJOR FOOD DESTINATION
WITH HEAVY HITTERS LIKE CHARLIE TROTTER,
WHO ARE REDEFINING THE MIDWEST --
IN FACT, REDEFINING MODERN AMERICAN CUISINE AS WE KNOW IT.
BUT RECENTLY, CHICAGO WAS EVEN MORE FORTUNATE
TO FIND ITSELF THE NEW HOME
TO ONE OF THE MOST RESPECTED CHEFS IN AMERICA,
A CHEF'S CHEF WHO'D BEEN MYSTERIOUSLY MISSING IN ACTION
FOR YEARS, LAURENT GRAS.
HE COULD HAVE GONE ANYWHERE.
HE CAME HERE AND OPENED L2O,
A SPACE WORSHIPFUL OF FRESH SEAFOOD
IN ITS PUREST AND OFTEN HARDEST-TO-GET FORM.
IT'S THE SYNTHESIS OF MANY YEARS
OF TRAVELING AND WORKING WITH SEAFOOD.
IT'S THE PLACE LAURENT HAS ALWAYS WANTED
AND A PLACE THAT ME AND LOUISA AND MY FRIEND ERIC RIPERT
HAVE BEEN WAITING FOR.
SO, LAURENT IS ONE OF THESE GUYS,
SORT OF LIKE GRAY KUNZ AND SCOTT BRYAN,
THAT EVERY MINUTE THAT HE'S NOT SETTLED INTO A RESTAURANT --
IT'S LIKE MUHAMMAD ALI NOT BEING ABLE TO BOX
FOR HOWEVER MANY YEARS AT THE PRIME OF HIS CAREER.
BUT AT L2O, THE WANDERING CHEF HAS FINALLY FOUND A HOME.
AND FROM THE GET-GO, HE'S PULLING NO PUNCHES,
STARTING WITH AN INCREDIBLE TASTING MEDLEY
OF TUNA AND KAMPACHI, MUSSEL AND COCONUT GELéE
WITH CHILI PEPPER AND GREEN-APPLE ESSENCE,
A MEDAI ROLL WITH SALMON ROE,
AND CURED ESCOLAR WITH AN ESPELETTE PEPPER
AND CRYSTALLIZED LETTUCE -- UNBELIEVABLE.
EACH CREATION PERFECTLY BLENDING FLAVOR AND TEXTURE
WITH A DIRECTNESS AND SEEMING SIMPLICITY,
YET NOTHING MASKS THE PURE DEEP-OCEAN FLAVORS
OF THE FISH ITSELF.
YOU REALLY NEED TO KNOW SEAFOOD
TO REALLY UNDERSTAND WHAT PEOPLE MEAN WHEN THEY SAY,
"IT TASTES LIKE THE OCEAN."
WHAT WE'RE REALLY SAYING IS,
"IT TASTES LIKE THE DEEP OCEAN --
DEEP, CLEAN OCEAN -- SMELLS AND FEELS."
EXACTLY.
FLUKE WITH CAVIAR AND SHISO LEAF IS A GOOD EXAMPLE.
THIS IS ONE OF THOSE THINGS I JUST TOTALLY, TOTALLY LOVE.
IT'S FLUKE AND THE CAVIAR AND THE SHISO --
IT'S, LIKE, SO FLORAL.
THE QUALITY OF THE FISH IS UNBELIEVABLE.
THAT FISH -- I WOULDN'T BE SURPRISED IT'S STILL ALIVE,
AND THEN HE KILLS IT AT THE LAST SECOND OR SOMETHING.
THERE'S A ZEN-LIKE PRECISION
TO EVERYTHING COMING OUT OF THIS KITCHEN,
A DIFFERENT WORLD FAR FROM THE CHAOTIC, SWEATY MOSH PITS
THAT I TOILED IN.
OOH.
AKAGAI CLAMS IN RICE WINE VINEGAR AND WHITE SOY...
I'M GONNA LOVE THIS ALREADY. I CAN TELL.
...THE VERY DEFINITION OF WHAT A CLAM CAN AND SHOULD BE.
OH, YEAH, THAT'S A GOOD IDEA, TONY.
THAT WAS GREAT. THAT'S THE WAY A CLAM SHOULD TASTE.
I CAN HAVE LIKE A DOZEN LIKE THAT.
IT'S A MEAL THAT MOVES BEYOND SIMPLY NOURISHMENT.
WE'RE TALKING ABOUT SENSATION, ABOUT PLEASURE.
AND FOR PURE PLEASURE, IT WOULD BE HARD TO DO BETTER
THAN THIS LUXURIOUSLY DECADENT BUTTER-POACHED LOBSTER
WITH SEA URCHIN ROE AND SAUTéED SQUID
IN A RICHLY FLAVORED LOBSTER-URCHIN EMULSION.
OH, MY GOSH.
OH, WOW. THAT LOOKS REALLY RICH.
I TOTALLY RELATE TO IT. [ CHUCKLES ]
HOLY [BLEEP]
THIS IS ACTUALLY EXACTLY THE SORT OF THING
THAT I REALLY, REALLY, REALLY, REALLY LOVE, YOU KNOW?
RICH SHELLFISH SAUCES WITH, YOU KNOW, ANYTHING WITH UNI.
LET'S FACE IT --
TOO MUCH OF A GOOD THING IS ALWAYS GOOD, RIGHT?
NO COMPLAINTS.
[BLEEP] NO.
YEAH, AND I DON'T HAVE ANY GRIPES
WITH THIS NEXT COURSE, EITHER --
SEARED TORO WITH FREEZE-DRIED WASABI-CELERY GARNISH
AND GREEN-APPLE SALAD
IN A GREEN-OLIVE-AND-SOY EMULSION -- SMASHING.
THIS TASTES LIKE JAPAN.
YES.
YOU GET IT WITH, LIKE, A REALLY GOOD IZAKAYA IN JAPAN,
AND THEY SERVE YOU TUNA COLLAR.
MMM. I LIKE THAT.
THIS IS REALLY, REALLY, REALLY GOOD.
DO YOU THINK THAT LAURENT FELT A LITTLE MORE FREE
TO DO THIS STYLE OF CUISINE HERE THAN IN NEW YORK?
THAT'S A REALLY INTERESTING QUESTION.
NEW YORK CLIENTELE -- IF YOU'RE NOT CAREFUL,
THEY'LL INFLUENCE YOU TO DO WHAT THEY WANT...
WHICH IS NOT NECESSARILY A GOOD THING.
AND HERE, I DON'T KNOW.
MAYBE THE CLIENTELE HERE IS MORE LAID-BACK
AND OPEN TO THE EXPERIENCE AND...
I DO REALLY THINK THAT, WITHIN CHICAGO,
FOR A LONG TIME, WE HAVEN'T EVEN GIVEN OURSELVES
THE RESPECT IN A LOT OF WAYS.
YEAH, TOTALLY.
I ALWAYS THOUGHT OF CHICAGO AS A GREAT FOOD CITY.
IT IS.
WITH GREAT CHEFS, WHO DESERVE RESPECT.
I MEAN, I NEVER REALLY SAW THIS AS A CITY
THAT WAS PLAYING CATCH-UP IN ANY WAY.
IT'S THE CHICAGO CUBS SYNDROME, YOU KNOW,
THAT KIND OF PERMEATES SO MUCH OF THE CULTURE.
PERCEPTION AND REALITY ARE HARD, SOMETIMES, TO SEPARATE.
AND I DON'T KNOW IF I BUY LOUISA'S THEORY.
THERE'S SURELY NOT ANYTHING MODEST
ABOUT L2O OR THE FOOD THERE.
THEY'RE GOOD, AND THEY KNOW IT.
WHEN IT COMES TO THE FOOD IN THIS CITY,
NOBODY'S SAYING, "WAIT TILL NEXT YEAR."
I'M SO HUNGRY. I HAVEN'T HAD BREAKFAST.
I HAVEN'T HAD LUNCH.
I'VE BEEN, LIKE, IN TRAINING FOR THIS MEAL.
FINALLY, A PERSONAL QUEST FOR THE WORLD'S FINEST EXAMPLE
OF MEAT IN TUBE FORM COMES TO ITS TRIUMPHANT CONCLUSION.
PERFECTION IN A DOG.
CHICAGO -- THERE'S A LOT THAT SETS THIS CITY APART
FROM EVERY OTHER CITY IN THIS COUNTRY,
A LOT THAT YOU'LL FIND HERE
THAT YOU WON'T FIND ANYWHERE ELSE -- AND I MEAN ANYWHERE.
AS MUCH AS IT PAINS ME TO SAY IT,
THERE'S AT LEAST ONE AREA WHERE CHICAGO FAR SURPASSES NEW YORK.
AND GIVEN MY PERSONAL OBSESSION WITH THIS PARTICULAR ITEM,
IT MAKES IT ALL THE MORE DIFFICULT FOR ME TO SAY
THAT, YES, CHICAGO HAS, HANDS DOWN,
A BETTER HOT DOG THAN NEW YORK CITY.
ANYBODY WHO'S BEEN FOLLOWING THIS SHOW
FOR ANY PERIOD OF TIME AT ALL
KNOWS THAT I LOVE FEW THINGS MORE THAN MEAT IN TUBE FORM,
AND ESPECIALLY, LIKE, LOCAL MUTANT FORMS OF HOT DOGS.
SO WHEN I REALIZED I'D BE DOING A CHICAGO SHOW,
THE LOCATION THAT WENT TO THE VERY TOP OF THE SHOOT LIST
WAS THIS PLACE, HOT DOUG'S SAUSAGE SUPERSTORE,
A NIRVANA FOR LOVERS OF MEAT IN TUBE FORM.
THE MENU HERE RANGES FROM EXOTIC WILD GAME
AND GOURMET DOGS TO THE SIMPLE PLEASURES
OF A FLAWLESSLY PREPARED CHICAGO RED-HOT.
I'M SO HUNGRY. I HAVEN'T HAD BREAKFAST.
I HAVEN'T HAD LUNCH.
I'VE BEEN, LIKE, IN TRAINING FOR THIS MEAL.
AND I'M NOT THE ONLY ONE.
CHECK OUT THIS LINE OF LOCALS -- NOT TOURISTS, BUT LOCALS --
WAITING TO GET IN TO EXPERIENCE HOT-DOG PERFECTION.
THIS IS KIND OF LIKE, YOU KNOW, HOT DOG CITY,
AND YOU KNOW, LOOK AT US -- WE'RE ALL STANDING ON LINE.
IT'S GOT TO SAY SOMETHING, RIGHT?
RAINED WITH PRAISE
FROM CUSTOMERS, CRITICS, AND CULINARY INSIDERS,
HOT DOUG'S HAS ROUTINELY BEEN RANKED
THE BEST DOG IN CHICAGO.
IT WAS EVEN LISTED BY BON APPé*** MAGAZINE
AS ONE OF THE 50 BEST RESTAURANTS ON THE PLANET.
OH, AND DID I MENTION THE FRENCH FRIES
COOKED IN DUCK FAT?
THIS IS LIKE THE GREATEST THING THAT EVER HAPPENED.
SO, WHO IS RESPONSIBLE FOR ALL THIS INCREDIBLE GOODNESS?
THIS GUY, DOUG SOHN.
WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE ON IT?
Man: EVERYTHING. GIVE ME EVERYTHING.
ALL RIGHT.
BUT WHY HOT DOGS?
IT ALL STARTED --
A FRIEND OF MINE HAD A BAD HOT DOG ONE DAY.
AND HIS COMMENT WAS, YOU KNOW,
"HOW DO YOU MAKE A BAD HOT DOG?"
AND I FOOLISHLY SAID, YOU KNOW,
"I THINK YOU CAN, AND I THINK PEOPLE DO."
THE BAR IS REAL HIGH HERE.
THERE'S LIKE A LOT OF HOT DOG JOINTS.
AND YET, WHEN I STARTED TO ASK AROUND ABOUT THESE THINGS,
THE CONSENSUS AMONG SERIOUS FOODIES
AND, MORE TO THE POINT, SERIOUS AFICIONADOS OF THE DOG
IN ALL OF ITS MUTANT FORMS, WAS THIS PLACE.
I REALIZED THERE WAS NO PLACE THAT DID JUST SAUSAGES,
WHICH WAS A FOOD I LOVE.
AND AS THE IDEA STARTED FORMING,
THE CONCEPT STARTED TAKING SHAPE,
AND I SAID, "WELL, LET'S SEE IF THIS WILL FLY."
AND FLY IT DID,
BUT WHAT DIFFERENTIATES A RED-HOT FROM OTHER DOGS?
IT'S AN ALL-BEEF, PREFERRED NATURAL-CASING HOT DOG,
NICE BEEF-GARLIC FLAVOR TO IT.
YELLOW MUSTARD.
AND NO FANCY FRENCH STUFF.
YELLOW MUSTARD.
NEON-GREEN RELISH, TOMATOES, ONIONS,
A SLICE OF DILL PICKLE, AND THEN TOPPED WITH CELERY SALT.
THERE YOU HAVE IT --
A DOG THAT IS BIGGER THAN THE SUM OF ITS PARTS,
AND THERE ARE A LOT OF PARTS TO NEGOTIATE.
SEE, HERE'S THE CONUNDRUM WITH THE CHICAGO-STYLE DOG --
ALL THE THINGS THAT MAKE IT GOOD TO EAT
ALSO MAKE IT HARD TO KIND OF HOLD TOGETHER.
WHOA.
CASE IN POINT.
OH, YEAH. PERFECTION IN A DOG.
AND OF COURSE, WHAT'S A DOG WITHOUT A MOUNTAIN OF FRIES
TO KEEP IT COMPANY?
OH, YEAH.
BUT NOT JUST ANY KIND OF FRIES --
I'M TALKING ABOUT FRIES DECADENT ENOUGH
TO MAKE ELVIS BLUSH LIKE A SCHOOLGIRL,
THE ROLLS-ROYCE OF FRIES,
FRIED IN PURE RENDERED DUCK FAT.
DUCK-FAT FRY. MMM.
IS THERE A BETTER MEDIUM FOR FRYING ANYTHING?
I DON'T THINK SO.
BUT THIS IS MERELY A PROLOGUE
TO WHAT IS, FOR ANY CARNIVORE,
THE ULTIMATE [BLEEP] INDUCING ITEM ON THE MENU...
COME TO DADDY.
...THE FOIE GRAS DOG,
A GRILLED SAUTERNE-INFUSED DUCK SAUSAGE
WITH TRUFFLE MUSTARD
AND TOPPED WITH A GENEROUS PILING OF FRESH FOIE GRAS.
WOW.
THAT'S REMARKABLY GOOD.
OH, MAN.
BUT THIS IS MORE THAN JUST AN INCREDIBLE HOT DOG.
FOR A TIME, THIS VERITABLE WONDER WIENIE
WAS A POLITICAL STATEMENT,
A BOLD AND UNREPENTANT MIDDLE FINGER TO A BAN
THAT, HAD IT NOT BEEN TURNED BACK BY THE PEOPLE OF CHICAGO,
WOULD QUICKLY HAVE SPREAD ACROSS THE COUNTRY.
CHICAGO WAS THE SPEARPOINT, THE FRONT LINES,
THE BARRICADES OF, REALLY, A WORLDWIDE CONFRONTATION
BETWEEN THE FORCES OF LIGHT
AND THE FORCES OF DARKNESS AND EVIL.
IT ALL CAME DOWN TO WHAT I SEE AS THE FALSE ISSUE OF FOIE GRAS.
I MEAN, THEY FOCUSED ON CHICAGO.
AS I UNDERSTAND IT,
MANAGED TO CONVINCE A BUNCH OF ALDERMEN
ONE ALDERMAN.
JUST ONE? THAT'S ALL IT TOOK?
WE STILL KEPT SERVING IT,
AND THAT'S WHERE THE HEALTH DEPARTMENT
DIDN'T FIND IT AS FUNNY AS I DID.
YES.
$250.
BET THAT TAUGHT YOU A LESSON.
SURE.
SO, WHAT DID YOU DO THEN?
WE SORT OF KEPT SERVING IT,
MOSTLY TO JUST BE A SMARTASS AND TO SORT OF SAY,
LIKE, "WELL, YOU KNOW, WE'RE THIS HOT DOG STAND.
"WE'RE LOCATED NOWHERE NEAR DOWNTOWN.
I DON'T CARE."
I ASSUMED THAT, AS WENT CHICAGO,
I THOUGHT THE REST OF THE COUNTRY WAS GONNA GO THAT WAY.
I NEVER THOUGHT IT WOULD BE SUCCESSFULLY OVERTURNED.
SO THE GOOD GUYS WIN ONE.
YEAH, TO THE POINT WHERE, ACTUALLY,
THE ALDERMAN WHO BROUGHT IT UP IN THE FIRST PLACE
HAD HIS MICROPHONE SHUT OFF DURING THAT LAST HEARING.
I MEAN, THIS IS EVERYTHING, TO ME, THAT AN EATING --
ANY KIND OF AN EATING ESTABLISHMENT SHOULD BE.
CAN'T THANK YOU ENOUGH. DELICIOUS.
THANK YOU SO MUCH. WE'RE TOTALLY FLATTERED.
CHICAGO, LIKE ANY TRUE METROPOLIS,
HAS A FOOD SCENE THAT EMBRACES THE HEARTY SIMPLICITY
OF ITS TRADITIONAL FARE,
AS WELL AS THE LOFTY HEIGHTS OF ITS UBER-HIGH-END DINING.
IT'S THESE EXTREMES THAT SERVE AS VITAL SIGNS
OF A ROBUST AND ACTIVE FOOD SCENE.
WORKING A MIDDLE GROUND BETWEEN THESE TWO ENDS OF THE SPECTRUM
IS PAUL KAHAN --
CHEF, PROPRIETOR, AND GODFATHER
OF A GROWING CULINARY EMPIRE IN CHICAGO.
HIS RESTAURANTS, BLACKBIRD AND AVEC,
HAVE TAPPED INTO BOTH AN APPRECIATION
OF SKILLED EXECUTION AND PRESENTATION,
AS WELL AS THE MIDWESTERN ETHOS
OF THE MEAL AS A NOURISHING EXPERIENCE.
AND HE'S BROUGHT ALONG A STABLE OF INCREDIBLY TALENTED CHEFS.
TONIGHT, WE'RE HANGING OUT AT PAUL'S HOUSE
AND ENJOYING A SAMPLING OF DISHES
TAKEN FROM THE MENU FOR HIS SOON-TO-BE-OPEN
CASUAL EATERY, THE PUBLICAN.
KIND OF OUR APPROACH TO THE PUBLICAN IS THE HOLY TRINITY --
OYSTERS, PORK, AND BEER.
IS THAT AN ALBUM?
IT SHOULD BE -- "OYSTERS, PORK, AND BEER."
MY PERSONAL BELIEF IS
THAT THERE ARE ONLY TWO CITIES IN AMERICA
THAT CAN ACTUALLY CALL THEMSELVES CITIES,
MEANING THERE'S NEW YORK, OF COURSE, AND CHICAGO.
SO, WHAT'S GREAT ABOUT CHICAGO?
CHICAGO HAS A LOT OF THE SAME THINGS.
IT'S A BIG, POWERFUL CITY.
I THINK OUR ARCHITECTURE IS BETTER HERE.
I THINK THE LIFESTYLE HERE IS A LOT MORE LAID-BACK.
WE DON'T HAVE TO SAY WE'RE THE BEST.
WE JUST DO WHAT WE DO. WE WORK REALLY HARD.
LOOK AT THE FOOD SCENE IN CHICAGO.
NEW YORKERS WANT TO COME HERE AND OPEN THEIR RESTAURANTS.
WELL, THE LAST OBSTACLE --
YOU KNOW, YOU OVERTURNED THE FOIE GRAS BAN, RIGHT?
WE DID.
ONE FOR THE GOOD GUYS.
THIS IS THE BARRICADES. THIS IS THE FRONT LINE --
THE FACT THAT, FOR THE FIRST TIME,
THE FORCES OF EVIL HAVE BEEN MET AND ROLLED BACK.
IT'S FANTASTIC.
WHO IN THIS ROOM IS FROM CHICAGO ORIGINALLY?
OH, REALLY?
BUT IT'S REALLY NOT SO SURPRISING
TO SEE THAT THE FORCES FOR GOOD
ALL HAPPEN TO BE FROM THE HOME TEAM.
PAUL KAHAN'S CREW REPRESENT THE BEST
OF A NEW GUARD OF CHEFS
WHO ARE REDEFINING THE CHICAGO RESTAURANT SCENE
AND AMERICAN CUISINE AS A WHOLE.
I'VE GOT A FEELING IT'S GONNA BE A PRETTY GOOD NIGHT.
WHAT DO YOU GET WHEN YOU CROSS MIDWESTERN PORTION SIZES
WITH HIGH-END EXECUTION, AN EVENING WITH GOOD FRIENDS,
AND LOTS OF BEER?
I DON'T REMEMBER.
I HOPE SO. I COULD BE COMPLETELY WRONG.
[ LAUGHTER ]
AFTER FIVE DAYS OF DELVING DEEPLY
INTO THE CHICAGO FOOD SCENE,
I FIND MYSELF AT WHAT MAY BE ITS CULINARY NEXUS --
A BACKYARD.
PAUL KAHAN AND HIS CREW OF TALENTED CHEFS
HAVE LAID OUT A SPREAD OF TRUE MIDWESTERN PROPORTIONS,
INCLUDING FOUR DIFFERENT TYPES OF HOMEMADE SAUSAGES,
HAM COOKED IN HAY, CREAMED CORN,
AND CANNELLINI AND PINTO BEANS
BRAISED WITH CHILI, ONION, AND GARLIC.
IT'S A DISTANT AND DELICIOUS COUSIN TO THE KIND OF MEAL
PEOPLE MIGHT HAVE EATEN HERE A HUNDRED YEARS AGO,
BUT WITH A DECIDEDLY MODERN SENSIBILITY.
THE WAY I HEARD ABOUT YOU,
ENCOUNTERED YOU FOR THE FIRST TIME --
I WALKED INTO BLACKBIRD COLD.
I SAT DOWN AT THE BAR.
I THINK I ORDERED, LIKE, A PLATE OF FRENCH FRIES AND A BEER.
AND ALL THESE EXTRA COURSES STARTED COMING,
AND THEY WERE ALL REALLY, REALLY GOOD.
THAT WAS THE FIRST COMP MEAL I EVER HAD IN MY LIFE.
IT WAS THE FIRST -- NO, NO.
SINCE AVEC OPENED, FOR SURE,
YOU'VE KIND OF BEEN GOING AGAINST THE GENERAL DRIFT.
NOW A LOT OF PEOPLE ARE GETTING ON BOARD.
THERE SEEMS TO BE A GREAT TURN INWARD
AND A TURN TO MORE CASUAL,
KIND OF CUSTOMER-FRIENDLY DINING SITUATIONS.
Man: THAT'S BEEN GOING ON FOR THE LAST FIVE OR SIX YEARS.
BUT YOU GUYS ARE REAL LEADERS IN THAT.
AND NOW YOU'RE GETTING INTO BEER AND SAUSAGE.
IT'S LOVE OF THE GAME.
[ LAUGHTER ]
WHERE DID THE CONCEPT COME FROM?
IT'S WHAT WE LOVE.
WE'RE TRYING TO DO AN OLD-SCHOOL RESTAURANT.
TRYING THE SIMPLE FOOD,
BUT WHERE DO YOU BREAK OUT THE NEW TECHNOLOGY?
WELL, I'VE ONLY EATEN AT AVEC AND BLACKBIRD,
BUT AT NO POINT DID I EVER FEEL LIKE
YOU WERE HITTING ME OVER THE HEAD WITH --
WITH NEW TECHNOLOGY, YOU KNOW?
HOW'S THE HAM CHOP?
AWESOME. THE HAY -- GOOD, GOOD THING.
REALLY? YOU CAN TASTE IT?
SEND THAT ONE DOWN HERE.
I HOPE SO. I COULD BE COMPLETELY WRONG.
[ LAUGHTER ]
28 YEARS OF SMOKING, YOU KNOW, IT'S...
WHAT'S DIFFERENT ABOUT THE RESTAURANT BUSINESS
IN CHICAGO, OR THE DINING PUBLIC?
I THINK THERE'S MORE OF A BLUE-COLLAR ETHIC
ABOUT FOOD IN CHICAGO.
I THINK IT'S A LITTLE MORE SOULFUL IN CHICAGO.
IT'S ABOUT GETTING FED.
THERE'S A LOT OF FOOD ON YOUR PLATE, AND YOU LEAVE --
YOU FEEL FULL. YOU FEEL WELCOME.
PLUS, WHEN YOU WALK IN THE DOOR,
THERE'S A DIFFERENCE IN SAYING
"GOOD EVENING" OR "WELCOME."
"WELCOME" -- IT JUST SOUNDS REAL.
"HEY, COME ON IN."
WHAT WE TRY TO ACHIEVE IS A LACK OF PRETENSION.
BUT IS THAT JUST YOU, OR IS THAT A CHICAGO THING?
I DON'T THINK PEOPLE GO TO EAT FOR AN EVENT.
I THINK THEY GO TO EAT 'CAUSE THEY NEED SUSTENANCE
AND THEY NEED COMMUNITY AND THEY NEED A FAMILY,
LIKE WHAT WE HAVE HERE.
I THINK WE GO ABOVE AND BEYOND
AND REALLY TRY TO WELCOME THE CUSTOMER IN
AND MAKE THEM FEEL LIKE THEY'RE DINING IN THEIR OWN HOME.
WATCHING CHICAGO'S FINEST DIGGING HAPPILY
INTO SAUSAGES AND BEER,
I'M SURE THAT IT WOULD HAVE BEEN EASY
TO ARRIVE AT SOME HAZY
BUT TRUE GENERAL STATEMENTS OF FACT HERE,
SOME HUGGY, HALF-TRUE CONCLUSIONS
ABOUT THE FANCIER THE RESTAURANT FOOD,
THE SIMPLER THE CRAVINGS OF ITS COOKS.
BUT A BIG CITY LIKE CHICAGO DEFIES EASY CONCLUSIONS.
FOR EVERY MOVE, SURELY, THERE'S A COUNTERMOVE
ON THE OTHER SIDE OF TOWN OR JUST ACROSS THE TABLE.
SOMETIMES THE SMARTEST THING YOU CAN DO
IS JUST SHUT UP AND EAT.