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Well I find always putting the face frame on
as a kind of moment of truth
and I am glad that ours is fitting well
This is when its starts to look like a cabinet
Now, we wanna try and get our edges between our faceframe
and the carcass as flush as possible
but if you're a little bit long its ok as you can sand it
or you can plane it down
and we're looking real good
What you're gonna notice is the top of the cabinet doesn't seem to fit the face frame
and that's because there's a lot of flexibility in the plywood sides
but what you do is... once the bottom is secured
then you can just rack this around to where it should be
nail it in place an everything will be fine
but make sure you check it before you nail it
We already glued the carcass
and we also wanna make sure
that the bottom piece of our faceframe is nice and flush with the shelf
We are going to pre drill
for our nails because the finishing nails might split the oak
as we hammer them home
we'll do the bottom first then the top
I'm eyeballing 3/8" in
then we're gonna nail the faceframe to the carcass
using these finish nails
When you're doing that be sure to do it very carefully
So that you don't end up dinging your faceframe
Finish nails are just perfect they don't have a head
but enough to hold the face frame on good and tight
Then we'll come back and we'll take a nail set
and set the nails
so then will fill those nail holes
so you'll never see that the nails are there
Keep you wet rag handy in case you have some glue squeeze out
The bottom's secure and we've got it lined up right where we want it
Now we'll go up here to one of the top corners
I need to pull mine out a little
Now that we have completed the faceframe
It's time to take up the fascinating subject of what to do about our false front and our doors
I say "fascinating" because there is such a wide range to choose from
and they're a lotta fun to make
Now, of course you could go to the hardware store and buy them but that's not the "do it yourself" way to go
We're going to make our own
And here are some of the choices
Here's a plain piece of plywood and it's the same piece of plywood we made our carcass out of
We simply cover this edge and we've got a beautiful door
Here's some solid wood it's the same wood as the face frame out of
It's glued up in a wide stock and we'll cut a door out of that and it looks great
Then we can do a very fancy thing and that's a raised panel door
We make rails and styles and make this decorative edge on it
and cut a little slot on it, to accept this panel which we cut to fit it
The panel is made up of glued up solid wood and made using simple techniques that you can do yourself
and that makes this little bevel here slide into the frame and styles, and it looks great
Another way to go would be this sort of frame
It's also rails and styles but the rails and styles are joined using a simpler technique
It's the same technique we used when we built our faceframe
and we drop a plywood panel in there and we have another beautiful door
To finish making our door there are
a couple of more things we need to do
We need to rabbet out on the inside to fit our panel
and also along the edges
Now rabbeting is just an L-shaped cut
and that rabbet on the outside will allow us to fit the door into the space
of our faceframe and end up with an overlap
To do this, I'm set up over here with a router
and I've got the rabbet bit on it
Now here it's important to note that there is a ball bearing at the bottom of that bit
and we want that ball bearing to run smoothly along the side of this piece
so that we get a nice clean cut. So if you have any roughness at the end grain of the joints then you might want to sand it nice and smooth
Before you cut on your finish piece be sure that you make a test piece to double check for the width and depth of your cut
The router kicks up a lot of dust so use a dust mask and goggles
and it's also noisy so use ear protection
I finished the rabbeting on the outside edge and on the inside edge
Now I could have used a jointer and a table saw with a dado blade
Now we're going to flip it over and get ready to do our rounding
both on the outside and the inside so I have them looking like this
Now you could use a shaper for this or a router like we are
Now we change the bit to a rounding bit and tested it so we know we are going to get the right effect
And we'll also repeat those processes on our false front
Now all we need to do is insert our panel and put glue along the edge very carefully not get spill over
And then I drop the panel in and then we're gonna attach them with our little brads
One of the marvellous things about the MARK V is its ability to make genuine raised panel doors
like this one. look at this beautiful decorative edge that's cut on the rail and styles
with a special cutter set up here on the shaper and also this raised panel that we cut on the table saw
3 setups and you can make a raised panel door like this! Let's show you how it's done
I have already cut my rail here and you can see how the cutter works on that
We've got the recipricol cutter set up on the shaper now
Now we're gonna cut the style
That's all there is to it and you can see the two parts fit perfectly like there
and we have our groove here for our raised panel to slip into
Beautiful raised panel doors on the Mark V. I told you it was a three step process. You saw me do the first two on the shaper and I 'm gonna do the third step here on the table saw
But before I make this cut I am going to show you how I have set the table saw up
First, I've tilted the saw at a 15 degree angle
And I've got my rip fence set pretty close (to the blade) with a high fence on it
That's to support this panel as I pass it through the blade
something else you'll notice the guard has been removed. Of course with this special fence on the guard wouldn't fit
so we had to take that off which means extra caution because we have an exposed blade
I've also put a special table insert with a very narrow slot in it
Because I'm gonna be cutting off a very small piece of scrap
with the regular table insert, it might slip down there and get caught and come back at me and I don't want that to happen
The other thing I've done (a little trick I learned) in cutting hardwood in this setup
Slow the saw down to the disk sander speed rather than the normal saw speed. It won't leave any burn marks here
So now we are all set up to go watch how easy this is
After you have completely assembled you raised panel door there's a couple of more cuts you might wanna put on it
When you've completely assembled it please remember not to glue the center panel in place
It stays in there loose so it can expand due to humidity
The other cuts you might want to put is a round over here and a rabbet in the back
And the Mark V makes it very easy. We do the roundover cut here on the shaper. Let me show you how that works.
It's a real pleasure to cut rabbets on the Mark V
And if we wanted to do one on the back of our door here which we do
that would be a little cut right in there like that
That would recess our door panel on the face frame and that's a good thing to do
Let me show you how easy it is here
we simply drop this table an eight inch and we're gonna make 3 passes
to cut our 3 eights rabbet.
There it is a beautiful raised panel door on your Mark V
You can make these for every room in the house
Fits right into the rail and style you just saw me cut a minute ago
Now there are a lot of different ways you can approach finishing
But it's best to do your finishing before you hang your doors
and do your false front
Now before you put any finish on
you have to make sure the entire project is as smooth as glass
and you do that with sandpaper and then you clean up first with a vacuum cleaner and then a tack rag
which is this piece of gauze that's been impregnated with some sort of wax which picks up every last piece of sawdust
As for the finish we're using; we're first putting on a stain to match the counter top we are using
Then after that we're applying a layer of polyurethane finish as it's great for moisture conditions
And after that polyurethane is completely dry, we make sure all these places where we have set the nail have been filled with a filler and a second coat of polyurethane goes on