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CHILE -- HALF A WORLD AND ANOTHER HEMISPHERE AWAY.
THIS SLENDER SLIVER OF A COUNTRY
BOASTS OVER 3,000 MILES OF COASTLINE,
AND -- AH, WHO AM I KIDDING WITH THE "LONELY PLANET" RECAP?
I GOT TO COME CLEAN.
I KNEW PRETTY MUCH ZERO ABOUT THIS PLACE
ASIDE FROM SOME SEMI-FORMED IMPRESSIONS
BASED ON MY OBSESSION WITH THE NIXON-ERA CIA
AND THEIR INVOLVEMENT IN THIS COUNTRY'S 1973 MILITARY COUP.
BUT OVER THE COURSE OF A WEEK,
MY FUZZY PRECONCEPTIONS GAVE WAY
TO A MORE FULLY FORMED AND COMPLEX PICTURE...
iBIENVENIDOS A CHILE!
...OF A COUNTRY COMING TO TERMS WITH ITS PAST
AND LOOKING OUT AT POSSIBLE FUTURES.
AS SIMPLY A LANDSCAPE, IT'S GORGEOUS.
I'M ANTHONY BOURDAIN.
♪ THAT'S RIGHT ♪
I WRITE.
I TRAVEL.
I EAT.
AND I'M HUNGRY FOR MORE.
♪ OOH ♪
♪ YOU GOT TO ♪
♪ GET LOST ♪
-- Captions by VITAC -- www.vitac.com
CAPTIONS PAID FOR BY THE TRAVEL CHANNEL, L.L.C.
ON THE MORNING OF TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 1973,
CHILEAN MILITARY FORCES,
COVERTLY BACKED BY THE CIA AND THE NIXON WHITE HOUSE,
ATTACKED CHILE'S DEMOCRATICALLY ELECTED GOVERNMENT.
[ EXPLOSIONS ]
COLUMNIST PABLO UNEAS WAS IN SANTIAGO THAT MORNING.
I WAS EXACTLY IN THIS CORNER IN SEPTEMBER 1973
WHEN THE FIRST HAWKER HUNTER SENT A BOMB THROUGH THE PALACE.
[ EXPLOSIONS ]
AND ITS IMPRESSION YOU CAN NEVER FORGET,
NO MATTER WHAT SIDE YOU'RE ON.
WITHIN HOURS, THE PLOTTERS,
LED BY ARMY GENERAL AUGUSTO PINOCHET,
HAD PULLED OFF A SUCCESSFUL COUP,
AND PRESIDENT SALVADOR ALLENDE WAS DEAD.
FOR THE NEXT 17 YEARS, PINOCHET RULED OVER CHILE
WITH WHAT COULD CHARITABLY BE REFERRED TO
AS AN EXTREMELY FIRM HAND.
ANYONE VIEWED AS A THREAT TO THE GOVERNMENT,
BOTH AT HOME AND ABROAD,
RISKED BEING SUBJECTED TO ARREST, TORTURE,
DISAPPEARANCE, AND DEATH.
WE'RE TALKING ABOUT 3,000 PEOPLE OVER 17 YEARS.
DISAPPEARED.
DISAPPEARED OR TORTURED BY MILITARY OR SECRET POLICE.
THE COUP WAS A MILITARY SOLUTION TO A POLITICAL PROBLEM
THAT SHOULD HAVE BEEN SOLVED WITH A PLEBISCITE OR WHATEVER.
BUT A MILITARY SOLUTION TO PROBLEMS CREATES MORE TROUBLE.
STRANGELY ENOUGH, MANY PEOPLE I SPOKE TO WERE MEASURED
IN THEIR EVALUATION OF A MAN WHOSE NAME BECAME SYNONYMOUS
WITH TORTURE, ***, AND DESPOTISM.
BUT CHILE'S ALL ABOUT A COUNTRY THAT WANTS TO MOVE FORWARD.
OVER THE PAST TWO DECADES,
THIS COUNTRY'S RISEN TO THE RANK OF ECONOMIC POWERHOUSE
OF SOUTH AMERICA.
A PROSPEROUS COUNTRY MOVING HEADLONG INTO A NEW CENTURY,
PROUD OF THE BRIGHTER ASPECTS OF ITS PAST,
YET EAGER TO MOVE FORWARD.
NEED PROOF? CHECK OUT THIS PLACE.
FUENTE ALEMANA, OR THE GERMAN FOUNTAIN.
NAMED FOR THIS GIANT BRONZE THING,
THIS SCARY-LOOKING MONSTER SITTING ACROSS THE STREET,
A GIFT FROM GERMANY COMMEMORATING THE CENTENNIAL
OF CHILE'S INDEPENDENCE FROM SPAIN.
FOR 60 YEARS, THIS DOWNTOWN INSTITUTION
HAS BEEN KIND OF THE PLACE FOR HUNGRY SANTIAGINOS
TO GORGE THEMSELVES ON THIS --
THIS ICONIC STANDARD-BEARER OF EVERYDAY CHILEAN GASTRONOMY,
THIS TOWERING MONUMENT ALL ITS OWN,
A HEAPING PILE OF PORK AND AVOCADO CALLED THE LOMITO.
YOU KNOW, THIS IS MY FIRST DAY HERE.
YOU KNOW, LONG BEFORE I ARRIVED, PEOPLE ON THE INTERNET,
CHILEANS, ARE GOING, "THE SHOW'S COMING HERE.
YOU HAVE TO EAT THIS, YOU HAVE TO EAT THIS."
THERE'S CERTAIN THINGS THAT ARE ABSOLUTELY FUNDAMENTAL
TO EVERYDAY CHILEAN LIFE.
THIS WOULD BE ONE OF THEM.
YOU SAY IN YOUR SHOW THAT YOU'VE EATEN A LOMITO
IN THE FUENTE ALEMANA,
AND THE PEOPLE WILL SAY IN CHILE, "HE'S ONE OF OURS!"
OH, OKAY, GOOD. THAT'S REALLY IMPORTANT TO ME.
AND THIS THING IS IMPORTANT TO CHILEANS.
ALTHOUGH THERE ARE DIFFERENT VARIATIONS OF IT,
THE CLASSIC LOMITO AT FUENTE ALEMANA
STARTS WITH A FRESH-BAKED FRICA BUN
SLATHERED WITH A FIST-SIZED DOLLOP OF AVOCADO,
SOME FRESH TOMATOES, AND A GENEROUS --
PERHAPS TOO GENEROUS -- HELPING OF MAYONNAISE.
AND, OF COURSE, YOU CAN'T OVERLOOK THE PORK --
LITERALLY, EVEN IF YOU TRIED --
FRESHLY SLICED INTO A STILL-STEAMING HEAP.
LOOK AT IT.
YEAH, IT'S BEAUTIFUL.
AND, OF COURSE, A FROTHY MUG OF THE HOUSE BEER.
MUCHAS GRACIAS.
THAT'S A NOBLE-LOOKING SANDWICH.
LOOK AT IT. ISN'T IT BEAUTIFUL?
OH, YES.
BEAUTIFUL, YES, BUT HOW ABOUT THE TASTE?
DELICIOUS.
Uneas: I THINK THIS IS THE BEST CONTRIBUTION
OF GERMAN IMMIGRATION TO OUR NATION.
BEER AND THE SANDWICH.
BEER AND GERMAN CUISINE.
MM-HMM.
AS UNCOMFORTABLE AS I AM WITH ALL THINGS HOFBRAU-ESQUE,
WITH LEDERHOSEN OF ANY STRIPE OR NATIONALITY,
I'M UNCONFLICTED IN MY LOVE FOR THIS SANDWICH.
IN THE WORDS OF THAT TITAN OF MUSIC AND HAIR DESIGN,
MR. WAYNE NEWTON, I CAN ONLY SAY, "DANKE SCHOEN."
MY BELLY FILLED WITH A SLURRY
OF PORK, AVOCADO, MAYO, AND BEER,
I FIGURE IT'S TIME FOR A LITTLE CAFFEINATED PICK-ME-UP.
THIS IS THE PASEO AHUMADA, THE MAIN ARTERY OF CHILEAN DOWNTOWN.
THE PASEO AHUMADA -- KIND OF LIKE LAS RAMBLAS IN BARCELONA,
IT'S A PEDESTRIAN-ONLY RETAIL AND COMMERCIAL ARTERY
RUNNING RIGHT THROUGH DOWNTOWN SANTIAGO.
EVERYTHING THAT HAPPENS HAPPENS HERE.
AND THAT'S WHERE YOU FIND CAFé CARIBE,
ONE OF MANY EXAMPLES OF A PARTICULARLY CHILEAN PHENOMENON
KNOWN AS CAFE CON PIERNAS, OR COFFEE WITH LEGS.
[ WHOOSHING ]
THIS WAS NOT A COFFEE CULTURE.
IT WAS A NESCAFé CULTURE.
SO, WHEN DID IT START HERE?
IN THE '50s.
AND PEOPLE WOULDN'T CARE MUCH FOR COFFEE,
BUT THEY DID CARE FOR GOOD-LOOKING SEÑORITAS.
THE IDEA WAS TO INVENT SOMETHING THAT HAD BOTH STIMULUS --
A NICE-LOOKING LADY AND WHAT INVIGORATES YOUR MIND.
AND SO THE COFFEE-WITH-LEGS PHENOMENON WAS NOT ONLY BORN
BUT EVEN THRIVED DURING THE REPRESSIVE PINOCHET YEARS.
AS FAR AS YOUR SERVERS GO,
THE LEVEL OF DRESS OR UNDRESS RUNS THE WHOLE SPECTRUM.
FRANKLY, THERE'S SOMETHING DECIDEDLY,
I DON'T KNOW, CREEPY ABOUT THIS.
I MEAN, I'M TRYING TO HAVE MY MORNING COFFEE HERE.
I DON'T WANT THE GUY NEXT TO ME AT THE COUNTER
SPANKING HIS MONKEY.
AND DON'T EVEN GET ME STARTED ON THE FOOTWEAR.
MAN, HEELS ARE TOUGH. TOUGH TO WORK IN HEELS.
SHE'S WEARING STILETTOS OVER THERE.
HER FEET MUST HURT AT THE END OF THE DAY.
I'VE NEVER WORN HIGH HEELS. IT MUST BE TERRIBLE.
YEAH, ME NEITHER. EVER.
JUST WANT TO GET THAT CLEAR RIGHT NOW.
AND WHILE THE CAFé CON PIERNAS PHENOMENON
SHOWS NO SIGN OF FADING,
IT'S SUDDENLY HAVING TO SHARE SPACE
WITH A NEW PLAYER ON THE COFFEEHOUSE SCENE.
THE CORPORATE CAFé BEHEMOTH STARBUCKS
HAS STARTED MAKING SERIOUS INROADS
INTO THE CHILEAN MARKET,
WHICH BRINGS WITH IT A WHOLE OTHER SET OF LIFESTYLE ISSUES
TO SUFFER THROUGH.
YOU KNOW THE SHOW "FRIENDS"?
THIS RUINED THE WHOLE COFFEE CULTURE TO ME.
THEY WANT TO LIVE THIS BIZARRO ALTERNATE REALITY
LIKE THEY SEE ON THAT SHOW, SIT AROUND ON COUCHES.
HOW CAN YOU DRINK COFFEE FOR TWO HOURS, AN HOUR?
I DON'T KNOW.
IT'S JUST WRONG.
SEE, THIS IS PERFECT FOR ME.
STAND AT A COUNTER, HAVE YOUR COFFEE, YOU GO.
NO BIG DEAL.
IT'S ONLY COFFEE, AT THE END OF THE DAY.
A LITTLE FETISHISM WITH YOUR COFFEE?
NO, THANK YOU.
AFTER SOME CAFFEINE
AND A LITTLE TIME TO WALK OFF THE PORK-TASTIC LOMITO,
THERE'S ONLY ONE LOGICAL THING TO DO --
EAT MORE PORK.
SO I'M HANGING OUT WITH MY FRIEND
AND SANTIAGO RESIDENT RAUL PINOT
IN THE ESTACION CENTRAL NEIGHBORHOOD.
FOR ALMOST 100 YEARS,
THIS WORKING-CLASS NEIGHBORHOOD HAS BEEN HOME
TO YET ANOTHER HOLY PLACE IN THE WORLD TOUR
OF PORK-RELATED DESTINATION DINING.
"EL HOYO." WHAT DOES THAT MEAN.
Pinot: EL HOYO -- THAT MEANS "THE WHOLE."
IT'S LIKE WHEN YOU SAY "IT'S A WHOLE NEW WORLD."
WHAT ARE THEY KNOWN FOR HERE?
THE PERNILS, AND A PERNIL IS THE LEG OF PORK.
PORK LEG.
RIGHT.
AND THAT IS COOKED IN HERE TO PERFECTION.
AH, SO TO DO? THE THING
YEAH.
ONE OF SEVERAL MUST-HAVES HERE AT EL HOYO
AND A STAPLE OF CHILEAN CUISINE.
PICTURE THIS, PIG FANS --
AN ENTIRE LEG OF PORK SIMMERED FOR HOURS IN LIGHT BRINE
TILL FALLING-OFF-THE-BONE TENDER.
AND THEN THIS, THIS ARROLLADO, A TUBE,
A LOAF OF CURED PORK AND BITS WRAPPED IN PORK SKIN
AND BOILED AND SERVED BY THE SLICE.
DELICIOUS BEYOND IMAGINING.
USUALLY, PEOPLE EAT HALF OF IT AND TAKE THE REST HOME
BECAUSE IT'S GREAT FOR A SANDWICH.
BUT BEFORE THIS PORCINE THROWDOWN HAPPENS,
PERHAPS A LITTLE PALATE-CLEANSING LIBATION
TO GET THINGS STARTED.
AH!
BEHOLD THE TERREMOTO, OR EARTHQUAKE.
THIS IS THE EARTHQUAKE?
YEAH.
WHITE WINE.
UH-HUH.
AND PINEAPPLE ICE CREAM.
IS THIS A COCKTAIL FOR BEFORE THE MEAL,
OR YOU DRINK THIS STRAIGHT THROUGH?
AH, BEFORE, AND THEN AS YOU GET HAPPY, YOU DRINK IT MORE.
SALUD.
SALUD.
I MEAN, IT'S JUST WINE AND PINEAPPLE JUICE, RIGHT?
SO HOW COME IT GETS YOU ALMOST IMMEDIATELY RIPPED,
TRANSPORTED TO FARAWAY FIELDS OF PORK-SCENTED FLOWERS,
GLISTENING VARIETAL MEATS, AND BURSTING SAUSAGES?
HUH? WHAT? WHERE AM I?
YOU KNOW, YOU'RE RIGHT. I'M GETTING HAPPY ALREADY.
AND THE HAPPINESS IS JUST BEGINNING.
CUE THE PORK PRODUCTS.
WHOA!
THAT IS AN IMPRESSIVE HUNK OF MEAT.
SUMMONED BACK TO REALITY,
BUT A VISION EVEN BETTER THAN MY DREAMS,
A MOIST, POTENTIALLY EXPLOSIVE BLOOD SAUSAGE.
OH, IT'S NICE AND SOFT.
SO, I'M GONNA MASH UP A LITTLE OF THIS IN THERE, HUH?
SEE, THIS IS JUST PERFECT HAPPINESS FOR ME.
IT'S JUST THE ARRIVAL OF AN UNEXPECTED BLOOD SAUSAGE IS --
YOU KNOW, IT'S LIKE TRUE LOVE.
YOU NEVER KNOW IT'S GONNA HAPPEN UNTIL IT HAPPENS.
AND THIS IS ONE OF THOSE RARE INSTANCES
WHERE I REALLY DON'T HAVE AN OPINION.
I COULD JUST EAT THIS LIKE CANDY
OR I COULD MIX IT UP WITH THE MASHED POTATOES.
EITHER WAY, I'M REALLY, REALLY HAPPY.
I'M GLAD YOU SHOWED UP, MY FRIEND.
BUT WE'RE NOT DONE YET.
MEET THE MYSTERIOUS AND WONDERFUL ARROLLADO.
HOLY JEBUS.
THIS IS JUST FIENDISHLY DELIGHTFUL-LOOKING.
OH, YUM!
THIS IS TRULY UNIQUE.
I HAVEN'T SEEN ANYTHING LIKE THIS BEFORE.
THIS IS A REALLY WONDERFUL INNOVATION.
I'M NOT WALKING AWAY FROM THIS TABLE.
I'M WADDLING AWAY.
ANDREW ZIMMERN IS GONNA LOOK LIKE A SVELTE LITTLE BALLERINA
BY THE TIME I'M THROUGH WITH THIS MEAL.
[ LAUGHS ]
OH, YEAH.
I'LL BE ROLLING OUT OF HERE, BUT I'LL BE IN GOOD COMPANY.
BECAUSE THERE ARE TWO THINGS THAT ARE NEVER IN SHORT SUPPLY
AT EL HOYO --
PORK AND LEGIONS OF LOYAL AND SATISFIED CUSTOMERS.
WHAT A JOY.
JUST SENSATIONAL.
THANKS FOR THAT, MAN. CHEERS.
CHEERS.
ONE MORE.
ONE MORE LITTLE BIT OF THIS BLOOD SAUSAGE.
ONLY ONE DAY IN CHILE,
AND THIS COUNTRY'S ALREADY GOING DOWN SMOOTHER
THAN THAT FOURTH PITCHER OF TERREMOTOS.
HORSES? I LOVE HORSES.
BOOTS, SADDLES, AND SPURS SOUNDS LIKE A PARTY.
IT'S RODEO, THE NUMBER-TWO MOST POPULAR SPORT IN CHILE,
BEHIND SOCCER.
[ SPEAKING SPANISH ]
WHAT'S NUMBER THREE?
EVADING ITINERANT RODEO POETS,
A GROWING MENACE EVERYWHERE THESE DAYS.
COMING UP.
EARLY MORNING, SANTIAGO.
AT THE ESTACION CENTRAL,
COMMUTERS ARE COMING IN, TRAVELERS ARE HEADING OUT.
WHILE SOME OF THE LOCALS ARE CLEARLY ABUZZ
OVER THE EXCITING ARRIVAL
OF A CERTAIN CELEBRITY CHEF AND AUTHOR,
RAUL AND I CAN'T BE BOTHERED.
WE'RE TAKING A TRAIN SOUTH
TO EXPLORE ONE OF CHILE'S BIGGEST CULTURAL PHENOMENONS.
JUST SOUTH OF SANTIAGO,
SANDWICHED BETWEEN THE ANDES AND THE COASTAL RANGE,
LIES CHILE'S CENTRAL VALLEY,
A FERTILE REGION OF MILE AFTER MILE OF ORCHARDS AND VINEYARDS,
CHILE'S FRUIT BOWL.
RAUL AND I ARE HEADED INTO THE HEART
OF THE LARGEST WINE-PRODUCING REGION OF THE COUNTRY,
THE CURICO VALLEY.
Pinot: A GOOD BOTTLE OF CHILEAN WINE IS NOT EXPENSIVE.
YOU CAN BUY A $10 BOTTLE OF WINE, AND EXCELLENT QUALITY.
NOW, YOU GO TO $17,
AND YOU'RE DRINKING SOMETHING THAT YOU COULD NOT DRINK
IN CALIFORNIA OR IN FRANCE.
I'VE NOTICED THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN SAO PAULO,
IN BUENOS AIRES, IN MONTEVIDEO,
THEY WOULD OFFER CHILEAN WINE FIRST,
OVER FRENCH OR CALIFORNIAN.
BUT IT'S NOT SOME CHILEAN VERSION OF "SIDEWAYS."
NO VINEYARD TOUR.
WE CAME TO THE CURICO VALLEY
TO WITNESS NOT ONLY THE NATIONAL SPORT
BUT A NATIONAL OBSESSION.
SO, WE'RE GOING TO THE RODEO TODAY.
WHICH IS NOT A TYPICAL RODEO,
ESPECIALLY FOR YOU, FROM THE UNITED STATES.
AND RAUL KNOWS HIS RODEO.
AND HE SHOULD -- HIS FATHER WAS A CHAMPION RIDER.
THE RODEO HERE STARTED BECAUSE DURING THE SPRING,
THE FARMERS HAD TO SEND THEIR CATTLE UP TO THE MOUNTAINS.
AND THEN AT THE BEGINNING OF THE FALL,
THEY WOULD SEND THEIR COWBOYS, HUASOS, TO GET THEM BACK.
IS THIS A SPORT APPRECIATED BY EVERYONE,
CITY PEOPLE AND COUNTRY PEOPLE?
OH, YES.
REALLY?
OH, YES. OH, YES.
WE'RE NOT RIDING, ARE WE?
WE COULD.
[ BOTH LAUGH ]
EL PADRE DE DIOS...
FOUR HOURS SOUTH OF SANTIAGO
AT THE HUASO AND RODEO CLUB OF CURICO,
THE ACTION IS JUST GETTING STARTED.
RODEO FANS FROM AROUND THE REGION
COME TO THIS ARENA TO CHECK OUT THE RIDERS,
BUY NEW WARES, AND, OF COURSE, EAT.
SO, THAT PLACE LOOKED GOOD OVER THERE.
[ SPEAKING SPANISH ]
AND WHETHER YOU'RE THE OWNER OF A RIDING TEAM, A LOCAL FAN,
OR A SEMI-TOOTHLESS DRUNKEN POET,
ONE THING'S TRUE FOR EVERYONE --
WHATEVER YOU EAT, YOU WILL BE EATING WELL.
AT A CHILEAN RODEO, THE QUALITY OF THE FOOD
IS OFTEN AS GOOD AS THE QUALITY OF THE RIDERS THEMSELVES.
RAUL AND I ARE KICKING BACK AND ENJOYING SOME TRADITIONAL FARE
AND SOME OF THE FAMOUS LOCAL CHILEAN WINE.
Bourdain: SUDDENLY, IN MY 50s, I'M DRINKING A LOT OF WINE.
NEVER BEFORE.
WELL, IT'S A TIME IN OUR LIFE
WHEN WE REALLY KNOW WHAT IS GOOD, AND WE ENJOY IT MORE.
BEFORE, WE DID SOMETHING BECAUSE WE THOUGHT IT WAS GOOD.
NOW WE KNOW THAT IT'S GOOD.
YEAH.
I WOULD LIKE TO THINK YOU'RE RIGHT.
I THINK YOU ARE RIGHT. YEAH.
WORDS OF WISDOM, RAUL,
AND WE DON'T WASTE ANY TIME PUTTING THEM TO THE TEST
WITH THIS FIRST DISH, PLATEARA PICAPA --
LITTLE BITE-SIZED CUBES OF BRAISED BRISKET.
GOES WELL WITH THE WINE.
THIS IS BEEF, AND IT'S COOKED ON THE BOIL.
STEWED -- BRAISED.
IT'S VERY TENDER.
THIS IS DELICIOUS.
MMM! GOOD FAT.
AND I THINK THE WINE GOES VERY WELL WITH THIS.
YEAH, REALLY WELL.
OH, THAT LOOKS GOOD.
HEY, LOOK -- MORE RED WINE, AND MORE MEAT.
BEEF RIBS BRAISED IN LOCAL WINE --
CARMéNèRE, A COUSIN OF MERLOT, IF YOU CARE.
THAT'S NOT WHAT I EXPECTED AT ALL, IN A GOOD WAY.
I THOUGHT I'D BE GNAWING ON A BARBECUED RIB BONE.
THAT'S SEXY.
THE MAIN INGREDIENT IS CARMéNèRE WINE.
RIGHT.
AND THEN THEY BOIL THE BONES.
YOU MAKE A STOCK.
THEY MAKE A STOCK.
BECAUSE THIS IS VERY MUCH -- IT'S LIKE A COQ AU VIN.
IT'S A VERY SIMILAR SAUCE. BEAUTIFUL.
MMM. DELICIOUS.
THEY'RE PAIRED WITH A FAVORITE STARCH IN CHILE
CALLED CHARQUICAN,
A VARIATION OF MASHED POTATOES
THAT ALSO INCORPORATES PUMPKIN, CELERY, AND SPINACH.
SO, THIS WILL BE CLASSIC, VERY TYPICAL --
MAKES SENSE, WINE COUNTRY.
IT'S A VERY WINE-Y DISH.
ALL IN ALL, NOT EVEN CLOSE
TO WHAT I'D IMAGINE LUNCH AT A RODEO WOULD BE,
BUT THEN THIS IS CLEARLY NOT YOUR TYPICAL RODEO.
BUT THIS STYLE OF RIDING, AND, IN FACT, THIS FORM OF RODEO,
THE WHOLE SPORT, IS BASED DIRECTLY ON THE EVERYDAY --
EVERYDAY LIFE ON THE FARM.
WORKING HORSE.
YES.
THEY RIDE ABOUT SIX DIFFERENT HORSES.
YEAH.
I SHOULD HAVE THREE OR FOUR --
I SHOULD HAVE THREE OR FOUR DIFFERENT PEOPLE
DOING THIS SHOW.
I COULD JUST SIT OVER THERE, DRINK WINE,
EAT MY RIBS, HAVE A GOOD TIME.
WOULDN'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT THE CAMERAS.
PERHAPS I'VE STUMBLED ONTO THE SECRET
OF THE PERFECT SEASON OF "NO RESERVATIONS" --
STUNT DOUBLES.
AH, FULL BELLY, DRUNK OFF MY *** --
TIME TO WATCH SOME CATTLE STUNNED INTO SUBMISSION.
WHAT'S THE MOST POPULAR SPECTATOR SPORTS IN CHILE?
SOCCER, NUMBER ONE.
NUMBER ONE.
NUMBER TWO?
RODEO.
THEY RIDE IN TEAMS OF TWO, CALLED A COLLERA.
THE IDEA, AS I UNDERSTAND IT,
IS TO LEAD THE CALF AROUND THE CORRAL
AND PIN HIM UP AGAINST A CUSHIONED WALL.
WHO DO PEOPLE TEND TO ROOT FOR?
THEY ROOT FOR THE BEST.
WHO THEY THINK IS THE BEST?
YEAH. YES.
AND IN CHILEAN RODEO,
THE BEST IS DETERMINED BY HOW WELL THE CALF IS PINNED.
PINNING IT CLOSER TO ITS HINDQUARTERS, 4 POINTS.
PINNING IT CLOSER TO ITS HEAD, ZERO POINTS.
AS GOOD A NATIONAL SPORT AS ANY OTHER, I GUESS,
BUT AFTER AN HOUR OF IT
WITH THE DULL THUD OF PRIME BEEF
BEING TENDERIZED AGAINST A WALL STILL RINGING IN MY EARS,
I'M READY TO HIT THE DINING TENT AGAIN.
THEY'VE GOT EVERY TYPE OF PRODUCE KNOWN TO MAN,
DELICIOUS LOCAL DELICACIES...
GOOD STUFF.
...AND A LOT OF MEAT.
IT'S GOOD TIMES AT LA VEGA CENTRAL...
YA!
YA!
YA!
...WHEN WE COME BACK.
ANOTHER DAY, ANOTHER SHOW, ANOTHER MARKET SCENE?
iBIENVENIDOS A CHILE!
BUT NOT JUST ANY MARKET.
FILMMAKER JORGE SOTOMAYOR IS SHOWING ME AROUND
THIS SANTIAGO INSTITUTION FOR SOME LOCAL FLAVOR
AND A LOT OF FOOD.
THIS MARKET IS LA VEGA CENTRAL.
THIS IS A MARKET THAT WAS FOUNDED MORE THAN 100 YEARS AGO.
LA VEGA CENTRAL -- BACK IN THE ESTACION CENTRAL NEIGHBORHOOD.
A PRETTY STAGGERING ABUNDANCE
OF VERY, VERY GOOD-LOOKING PRODUCE FROM ALL AROUND CHILE,
AISLE UPON AISLE OF FRESH FRUITS AND PRODUCE,
FRESH MEAT, FISH, ALL THE USUAL SUSPECTS.
IT CAN LEAVE YOU FEELING, WELL, REALLY FREAKING HUNGRY.
I NEED A SNACK.
THIS IS CALLED THE SOPAIPILLAS.
IT'S A FOOD FROM THE MAPUCHE INDIANS.
SOPAIPILLAS -- MASHED PUMPKIN, WHEAT FLOUR,
PRESSED FLAT AND FRIED IN LARD.
WHAT'S NOT TO LIKE?
GOOD STUFF.
[ SPEAKING SPANISH ]
GREAT, BUT WHAT IF I'M FEELING THIRSTY AND HUNGRY?
THIS IS SOMETHING VERY ANCIENT.
IT'S MOTE CON HUESILLO, WHICH IS COOKED BARLEY WITH PEACHES.
THIS IS VERY INDIGENOUS,
BUT IT'S BEEN SPREAD ALL OVER THE COUNTRY.
I'VE NEVER SEEN ANYTHING LIKE IT.
MMM.
EVER SINCE I WAS A LITTLE KID, THIS WAS MY FAVORITE TREAT.
GOOD.
GOOD!
ALL THIS AMAZING FRESH STUFF
HAS GOT ME CRAVING SOMETHING MORE.
WE'RE HEADING OVER TO A FAVORITE SPOT OF JORGE'S
AT THE MERCADO
FOR SOME LOCAL FARE OF A MORE SUBSTANTIAL VARIETY.
¿QUé TAL?
ACROSS THE STREET FROM LA VEGA CENTRAL IS LA VEGA CHICA...
...A SMALLER AREA FILLED WITH CASUAL LUNCH COUNTERS
AND SIT-DOWN EATERIES,
THE PREFERRED DINING OPTION OF VENDORS
AND MARKET CUSTOMERS ALIKE.
THIS IS CARMEN'S.
CARMEN'S IS TYPICAL OF THE BEST OF THIS PLACE --
NO SIGNAGE INDICATING IT EVEN IS CARMEN'S.
PEOPLE KNOW TO COME HERE BECAUSE THEY KNOW
AND BECAUSE EVERYBODY'S BEEN COMING HERE FOR YEARS
'CAUSE IT'S CARMEN'S.
HERE WE GO.
THEY COME HERE FOR THIS -- CALDO POTTA, OR HOOF SOUP.
THAT'S VERY PRETTY.
EXACTLY WHAT YOU'D EXPECT, ONLY BETTER --
COW FOOT, VEGETABLES, CILANTRO COOKED IN HEARTY BROTH.
MMM! TEXTURE IS LOVELY.
EVERYBODY, IT SEEMS -- ALL GREAT COOKING CULTURES --
DO SOME VERSION OF THIS.
THIS IS A COUNTRY WITH A RAPIDLY EMERGING MIDDLE CLASS,
AND I GUESS WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU SEE PEOPLE
KIND OF NEWLY ENTERING THE MIDDLE CLASS,
THEY TURN THEIR BACKS ON DISHES LIKE THIS.
IT'S LIKE AN EMBARRASSMENT.
"I NEVER HAD TO EAT IT.
I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT YOU'RE TALKING ABOUT."
BUT YOU MISS IT ANYWAY.
ANOTHER LITTLE GEM
THAT MAY HAVE FALLEN OUT OF FAVOR WITH SOME --
CHINCHULINES, BASICALLY DEEP-FRIED CHITLINS...
SO, THAT LOOKS LIKE THE LARGE INTESTINE.
...SERVED WITH MASHED POTATOES AND RICE.
MMM. THAT'S GOOD.
GENERALLY NOT ONE OF MY FAVORITE THINGS, BUT THIS IS GOOD.
AND FINALLY,
THE FAMOUS "SEE IT EVERYWHERE IN ONE FORM OR ANOTHER"
PASTEL DE CHOCLO, OR CHILEAN CORN PIE,
A SUPER-DENSE, SWEET, SAVORY LAYERING
OF GROUND BEEF, CHICKEN, EGG, AND CORN MEAL AND HERB
BAKED IN CASSEROLE.
SO, IT'S SHEPHERD'S PIE.
YEAH.
IT IS. THAT'S WHAT IT IS.
SO, THAT'S LUNCH. THIS IS REALLY A NICE MIX.
MMM.
DISHES LIKE THIS, SERVED IN A SETTING LIKE LA VEGA CHICA,
GIVE YOU PROBABLY THE BEST WINDOW
INTO WHAT A COUNTRY AND A CULTURE ARE LIKE.
OH, THIS IS A PLACE LIKE THIS
TO SIT DOWN AND EAT INTERESTING STUFF.
PLUS THE COLORS, PLUS THE SMELLS.
IT'S GREAT PEOPLE-WATCHING,
'CAUSE YOU REALLY KIND OF GET A SENSE
OF THE HEART AND SOUL OF A COUNTRY --
WHO LIVES IN THIS PLACE AND KIND OF WHAT ARE THEY LIKE.
THIS IS EXCITING, ALWAYS.
A LOT HAS CHANGED SINCE THE BAD OLD DAYS OF THE PINOCHET ERA,
AND IN MANY WAYS, THE COUNTRY IS UNRECOGNIZABLE
FROM ITS REPRESSIVE PAST.
ECONOMIC PROSPERITY AND CIVIL FREEDOMS
HAVE ALLOWED FOR A REBIRTH OF CHILEAN CULTURE.
THERE'S A VIBE IN COUNTRIES THAT HAVE EMERGED FAIRLY RECENTLY
FROM REPRESSIVE TIMES.
COUNTRIES THAT HAVE ALWAYS HAD IT PRETTY GOOD
ARE PRETTY BORING.
YOU KNOW, SCANDINAVIAN COUNTRIES --
I'M JUST LIKE, "AH, NOT INTERESTING."
IF YOU HAVEN'T BEEN IN CHILE AS IT WAS BEFORE,
YOU CAN TELL THAT, REALLY,
PEOPLE HAVE SOME SORT OF A POWER TO,
I WOULDN'T SAY CONTROL POLITICIANS,
BUT CERTAINLY INFLUENCE THEM.
PEOPLE HAVE THE POWER.
AND IT'S BEEN A LONG AND HARD-FOUGHT STRUGGLE,
BUT AS WE APPROACH THE COAST, THE REAL QUESTION --
FOR ME, ANYWAY -- IS, WHEN AM I GONNA GET SOME SEAFOOD?
OBVIOUSLY, NOT BEFORE THIS.
IT'S 12 HOT INCHES OF THROBBING MEAT IN TUBE FORM.
OH, MY GOD. HOLY JEBUS.
IT'S CHILE'S OBSCENELY OVERSIZED, OVERLOADED UBER-DOG,
AND, OH, MY GOD, IT'S COMING CLOSER.
AN HOUR AND A HALF WEST OF SANTIAGO,
HUGGING THE CENTRAL COAST IN JORGE'S JAG,
WE'RE ON A MISSION FOR FRESH SEAFOOD.
BUT ALONG THE WAY,
JORGE SAYS THERE'S ONE STAPLE IN CHILEAN GASTRONOMY
I JUST CAN'T MISS.
AND SO WE FIND OURSELVES IN THE RESORT TOWN OF VIÑA DEL MAR
AT SIBARITICO'S, A GARAGE-TURNED-HOT-DOG-EMPORIUM,
WHERE SIZE DEFINITELY MATTERS.
TWO? COMPLETO?
YEAH, THE COMPLETE ONE IS WITH CHUCRUT, MAYONNAISE...
WHAT'S THE CLASSIC?
THE CLASSIC, COMPLETO.
WHOA, HOMBRE, THAT IS 12 FREAKING INCHES
OF FLOPPY CLOWN SHOE RIGHT THERE.
THE ORIGINS OF THIS ALL-BEEF WONDER WIENER
REMAIN SHROUDED IN MYSTERY.
AND WHAT OF THE NAME, "COMPLETO"?
WHAT MAKES IT COMPLETE?
Bourdain: BASICALLY, A BIG HOT DOG.
BASICALLY, A BIG HOT DOG IN A BIG BUN, RIGHT?
THEN, SEE, HE PUTS CHUCRUT.
SAUERKRAUT.
SAUERKRAUT.
THE PICKLES -- CHOPPED PICKLED VEGETABLES.
TOMATOES.
ABOUT A HALF A POUND OF GUACAMOLE.
AND IT ALL GET TOPPED OFF
WITH A COPIOUS, SOME MIGHT SAY EXCESSIVE, SLATHERING OF MAYO.
OH, MY GOD, IT'S ENORMOUS.
MAN. [ LAUGHS ]
EVERY GREAT NATION HAS SORT OF A HOT DOG VARIATION --
YEAH -- ALL THEIR OWN.
THIS IS THE BIGGEST. THIS IS NOT EVEN CLOSE.
YOU EAT THESE ALL THE TIME, RIGHT?
ALL THE TIME. TWICE A WEEK.
DUDE.
THAT IS WILD!
AND WE'RE GONNA NEED A WHOLE BUNCH OF THESE.
WHAT DOES ONE SAY TO A TERRIFYING
RON JEREMY-ESQUE TUBE OF MEAT LIKE THIS
ADRIFT ON A SEA OF AVOCADO AND MAYO?
I DON'T KNOW WHETHER TO EAT THIS THING
OR CONCEAL IT IN A BROWN PAPER BAG.
[ GRUNTS ]
YOU GOT TO FLANK THIS THING.
BUT THE IDEA IS THAT YOU GET THE WHOLE TASTE OF IT ALL.
THE WHOLE CROSS-SECTION.
YEAH.
OH, MY GOD.
I MEAN, HOW DRUNK DO YOU HAVE TO BE TO EAT THE WHOLE THING?
[ LAUGHS ]
HOLY JEBUS.
PERSONALLY, I'D MAKE THE DOG A LITTLE CRISPER.
I'D COOK THE DOG ON A GRIDDLE
SO IT'LL GET A LITTLE CRISPY ON THE OUTSIDE.
IT WOULD BE BETTER.
BUT TRADITION IS SO MUCH SO THAT THEY WON'T DO IT.
IT'S GOT TO BE LIKE THIS.
ALL RIGHT, ONE MORE.
I FEEL LIKE TERA PATRICK, MID-SHIFT.
HOLY GOD.
AS IMPRESSIVE AND CURIOUSLY SHAMEFULLY DELICIOUS
AS THIS MUTANT DOGGIE MIGHT BE,
THERE'S ONLY SO MUCH OF IT I CAN CHOKE DOWN.
I'M DONE.
YEAH, ME TOO.
BUT THERE'S NO REST TO BE HAD HERE.
JORGE DRIVES US ON FROM VIÑA
TO THE FAMOUS PORT CITY OF VALPARAISO.
IT'S NEW, IT'S VERY OLD,
IT'S A PORT CITY AND A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE,
FOR OBVIOUS REASONS ONCE YOU LOOK AROUND.
JORGE TAKES ME DOWN TO THE MERCADO DEL PUERTO
FOR A GAPE AT THE DAY'S CATCH.
AT DON VITTORIO'S SEAFOOD,
THE SPECIALS OF THE DAY REFLECT THE BENEFITS
OF BEING THIS CLOSE TO THE SOURCE --
ABALONE, RAZOR CLAMS, MUSSELS, CONGER EEL --
EVERYTHING HERE SPENT LAST NIGHT IN THE PACIFIC.
YEAH, THIS WILL WORK.
[ LAUGHS ]
SALUD.
TODAY, WE'RE DIGGING INTO SOME TYPICAL CHILEAN FAVORITES --
THE CLASSIC RAZOR CLAMS WITH CHEESE,
SOME FRIED CONGER EEL,
AND A HEAVENLY SEAFOOD STEW CALLED MARISCAL.
ONE OF THESE FIRST.
OKAY.
FIRST UP, MACHAS CON PARMESAN, OR RAZOR CLAMS WITH CHEESE,
PAN-ROASTED WITH BUTTER AND CHEESE.
YOU SEE THESE LITTLE BUGGERS EVERYWHERE.
THESE ARE GREAT.
YOU WOULDN'T THINK CLAMS AND CHEESE
WOULD GO TOGETHER SO WELL.
MMM. NOW, THIS IS THE CONGER EEL.
THAT'S THE CONGER EEL.
FRESH CONGER EEL, LIGHTLY BATTERED AND FRIED.
MMM!
DELICATE.
SUPER-FRESH, TOO. I'M NOT KIDDING.
ALL RIGHT, MAYBE JUST ONE MORE OF THESE.
WE'RE NOT DONE YET.
IN THE KITCHEN, A TINY TREASURE TROVE OF SHELLFISH GOODNESS
IS BUBBLING AWAY --
MUSSELS, ABALONE, SCALLOPS, RAZOR CLAMS, AND SHRIMP
COOKED IN SHELLFISH STOCK.
YOU'RE GONNA LIKE THIS.
AHH, QUE BONITA.
THAT'S BEAUTIFUL.
OH, LOOK, THEY'VE GOT ALL SORTS OF TREASURES.
ALL SORTS OF TREASURES.
MMM.
JUST LOOK AT...
THE SEAFOOD'S NOT OVERCOOKED.
AND THEY REALLY TAKE IT SERIOUSLY.
I MEAN, THEY PUTINTO THIS.WORK
YEAH, THEY DO.
THIS IS NOT JUST SOME KIND OF...
YEAH, RIGHT.
JUST THE BROTH ALONE WOULD BE SENSATIONAL, TOO.
I COULD JUST DRINK THAT IN A GLASS.
MY GRANDMOTHER USED TO SAY, "THE TASTE IS IN THE STEW."
THE LADY WHO DID IT IS JUST WAITING BEHIND YOU
TO SEE WHAT YOUR FACE IS.
THAT'S DELICIOSO.
[ SPEAKING SPANISH ]
SIMPLE PREPARATION
AND STRAIGHT-OUT-OF-THE-WATER FRESH SEAFOOD.
IT DOESN'T TAKE MUCH TO MAKE THIS STUFF TASTE GREAT.
BUT FRESH SEAFOOD ALONE ISN'T WHAT MAKES THIS CITY SPECIAL.
WHAT SETS VALPARAISO APART IS THE VERY CITY ITSELF.
NO LONGER THE DOMINANT PACIFIC SHIPPING HUB IT ONCE WAS,
THE CITY HAS SEEN A RENAISSANCE IN RECENT YEARS,
SPURRED ON BY ITS GROWING STATUS AS A CULTURAL CENTER
THAT SET THIS PLACE APART
FROM ANY OTHER URBAN SPACE IN CHILE.
YOU SEE IT IN THE HILLSIDE HOUSES
AND THE LABYRINTHINE STREETS...
THE OPEN SQUARE...
THE BUSY PORT.
A MIX OF PROSPERITY, POVERTY,
DECAY, AND RE-EMERGING GRANDEUR.
IT'S NOT SO MUCH SEEN AS IT'S FELT.
IN OTHER WORDS, YOU EITHER GET IT OR YOU DON'T,
AND ONE PLACE THAT TYPIFIES THIS INTANGIBLE CHARM
IS BAR LA PLAYA,
A 100-YEAR-OLD SAILOR BAR
LOCATED A FEW BLOCKS FROM THE PORT.
I'M THINKING, "TYPICAL END-OF-THE-DAY DRINK."
YOU KNOW, I PUT IN A HARD DAY AT THE OFFICE,
SHOVELING FOOD INTO MY FACE --
GOOD FOOD, BUT NO SMALL AMOUNT OF IT.
[ LAUGHS ]
I'M THINKING...
HOW ABOUT A PISCO SOUR?
YES.
YES, I THINK THAT SOUNDS LIKE A PLAN.
BEBEMOS UN PISCO SOUR, POR FAVOR.
AH, YES, THE UBIQUITOUS PISCO SOUR,
A DRINK FOUND ALL OVER CHILE.
A LIGHT, FROTHY MIX OF PISCO,
A TYPE OF BRANDY MADE FROM LOCAL GRAPES,
LIME JUICE, AND SIMPLE SYRUP.
CHEERS.
HERE.
TO A HARD DAY'S WORK.
THAT'S GOOD, BUT I'LL TELL YOU SOMETHING --
I'M GUESSING THAT BACK IN THE DAY
WHEN THIS WAS A BAR FILLED WITH BRAWNY, DRUNKEN SAILORS,
WE'D HAVE GOT THE [BLEEP]
KICKED OUT OF US.
OH, YOU BET.
YEAH.
YEAH, WOULD HAVE ENDED UP DEAD IN AN ALLEY
DRESSED UP IN WOMEN'S CLOTHES.
THE PISCO SOUR. NEXT TIME, I'LL HAVE A BEER.
NEAR THE END OF THE WORLD AS WE KNOW IT,
A BEAUTIFUL NOWHERE,
A PLACE TO REALLY GET AWAY AND MAYBE STAY AWAY.
ANYTIME YOU HEAR THE WORDS "HOT-TUB-RELATED INJURY,"
CLEARLY, LIFE IS NOT SUCKING, RIGHT?
PATAGONIA, RIGHT AFTER THIS.
SOMEWHERE NEAR WHERE THE CONTINENT ITSELF DROPS AWAY
AND THE COUNTRY OF CHILE BREAKS UP
INTO A SERIES OF ARCHIPELAGOS AND FJORDS,
THERE'S A GATEWAY, AN END AND A BEGINNING.
MAGELLAN NAMED THIS AREA PATAGONIA
AFTER A MYTHICAL RACE OF GIANTS HE BELIEVED TO HAVE ROAMED
THIS ASTONISHINGLY BEAUTIFUL AND RUGGED LAND.
IF I'VE LEARNED ANYTHING
IN MY DECADES OF TRAVELING AND MISBEHAVING,
IT'S THAT IF YOU GO FAR ENOUGH TO THE END
OF THE EDGES OF ANYWHERE,
YOU'RE GONNA FIND SOME EX-HIPPIES.
VICKIE JOHNSON AND GREG LOCKE WOUND UP HERE,
FIRST BUILDING AND THEN RUNNING THIS PLACE,
THE RATHER INCREDIBLE ECO-FRIENDLY
CLIFFS PRESERVE PATAGONIA,
SIX VERY COMFORTABLE LODGES, A CLUBHOUSE, AND SPA,
FACING AN ABSOLUTELY STUNNING WILD AND BEAUTIFUL OCEAN.
Bourdain: IT IS A RIDICULOUSLY BEAUTIFUL LOCATION.
I CHECKED MY E-MAIL.
THAT WAS THE MOST STRENUOUS THING I DID THIS MORNING.
IT WAS REALLY KIND OF THE ONLY REMINDER
OF THE REST OF THE WORLD.
IT'S LIKE MONTEREY IN THE '60s, ONLY EVEN WILDER,
THE CULMINATION OF A LONG, STRANGE TRIP.
WHEN YOU FIRST CAME HERE, THERE WAS...
NO ROAD.
THIS, NO ROAD, NOTH-- THERE WAS --
WAIT, THERE WAS NO ROAD?
NO ROAD.
WHAT, DO YOU HIKE OUT HERE?
WHAT MEANS OF CONVEYANCE DO YOU GET OUT HERE?
IT WAS SUMMER, SO WE CAME IN A JEEP
AND BASICALLY BUSHWHACKED OUR WAY THROUGH THE WHOLE PROPERTY,
FINDING DIFFERENT SPOTS TO SEE IT FROM.
AND IT TOOK US ABOUT TWO YEARS TO GET THE ROAD BUILT,
THE INITIAL ROAD TO COME IN,
AND THEN BRING THE WATER, THE POWER,
AND THEN GRADUALLY WE STARTED BUILDING ONE CABIN,
TWO CABINS, THREE CABINS.
TO AS MUCH OF AN EXTENT AS POSSIBLE,
ASGROWING YOUR OWN STUFF.E
YEP.
YOUR OWN ANIMALS.
YEP.
I'M GUESSING WORKING WITH LOCAL FISHERMEN.
ABSOLUTELY.
FROZEN MAINE LOBSTER TAILS.
NOPE.
EVERY FIVE-STAR RESORT DESERVES A FIVE-STAR RESTAURANT,
AND THE CHOW HERE IS DECIDEDLY NOT TOFU SNACKS
WITH LENTILS AND BURDOCK.
YOU GOT YOUR FRESH LOCAL INGREDIENTS
USED FOR THIS BEAUTIFUL VERSION OF STEAK A LO POBRE --
SIRLOIN BEEF, CHILEAN POTATOES, AND, YES, QUAIL EGGS,
ALL OFF THE PROPERTY.
MMM!
THIS PAN-ROASTED CONGER EEL
RIGHT OFF THE BOAT FROM A NEARBY FISHER-DUDE.
AND THIS CHILEAN VERSION OF POLENTA, CALLED CHUCHOCA,
FROM CORN GROWN, YOU GUESSED IT,
RIGHT DOWN THE TRAIL A WAYS.
MMM! GOD, THIS IS DELICIOUS.
IT'S LIGHT, FLAKY.
IF YOU DIDN'T CALL IT EEL, YOU CALLED IT CHILEAN SNAPPER,
THIS WOULD BE THE HOTTEST MENU ITEM IN NEW YORK.
NEVER IN MY LIFE DID I IMAGINE IN MY WILDEST DREAMS
THAT I WOULD FIND MYSELF HAVING THAT TO MY RIGHT
AND THAT TO MY LEFT
AND SMELLING THAT OR FEELING THAT
AS I WALKED BACK TO THIS EXTRAORDINARY RESIDENCE.
WHAT DO WE HAVE TO DO TO NOT [BLEEP] THIS UP?
IT'S REALLY SIMPLE.
WHAT DO WE HAVE TO DO?
WE NEED TO BE HUMBLE WITH OUR ACTIONS,
AND WE NEED TO HAVE A CLEAN HEART.
IF YOUR HEART'S CLEAN
AND YOU HAVE THE RIGHT INTENTION,
YOU'LL REACH THE OBJECTIVE.
ONE MIGHT EASILY FIND ONESELF
LULLED INTO A STATE OF BLISSFUL CATATONIA,
THE KIND OF NEAR-BRAIN-DEATH PEACE
WHERE A SIX-HOUR LONG BOOTLEG OF THE GRATEFUL DEAD
SOUNDS LIKE A FASCINATING AFTERNOON'S DISTRACTION,
WHEN NOTHING CAN BE MORE INTERESTING
THAN A BRIGHT, SHINY OBJECT
OR THE TRAILS LEFT BY YOUR MOVING HAND, MAN --
WHICH MIGHT EXPLAIN WHAT HAPPENED TO OUR EDITOR, DAVE,
WHO ACCOMPANIED US ON A SORT OF FACT-FINDING MISSION
TO THE FIELD --
OR, AT LEAST, THAT WAS THE PRETENSE.
I MEAN, THIS KIND OF SAYS IT ALL ABOUT THIS PLACE,
IS THAT OUR EDITOR HAD A JACUZZI-RELATED ACCIDENT TODAY.
THE GUY WHO'S EDITING THIS SHOW.
APPARENTLY, HE WAS GETTING OUT OF HIS SEASIDE JACUZZI THIS --
THIS MORNING OR LAST NIGHT, TODD?
WERE YOU GUYS IN THERE TOGETHER, IN A NON-GAY WAY?
YES.
OKAY.
SO, YOU GUYS WERE DISCUSSING THE FINAL CUT OF THE SHOW,
AND OUR EDITOR APPARENTLY TOOK A LITTLE BIT OF A DRUNKEN TUMBLE
DOWN THE HILL, AND, WHAT, HE'S LIMPING?
HE'S ALL GIMPED OUT?
ANYTIME YOU HEAR THE WORDS "HOT-TUB-RELATED INJURY,"
CLEARLY, LIFE IS NOT SUCKING, RIGHT?
GOT TO GET SOME FOOTAGE OF THAT.
I'M VERY UPSET WITH YOU, TODD,
THAT YOU DIDN'T HAVE THE CAMERA WITH YOU.
PRICELESS VIEWS, LUXURIOUS ACCOMMODATIONS,
WOOD-BURNING JACUZZIS...
YEAH, I THINK I'M STARTING TO HEAR THE SIREN SONG MYSELF.
BEFORE TOO LONG,
IT'S BIRKENSTOCKS AND PHISH DOWNLOADS AND...
WHERE'S MY PONCHO?!
LIKE SEAFOOD? HEY, I KNOW I DO.
HOW ABOUT MOUNTAINS AND, LIKE, VOLCANOES? SURE.
WELL, THEN, WHAT ABOUT SEAFOOD IN THE MOUNTAINS
WITH, LIKE, VOLCANOES NEARBY?
AWESOME, RIGHT?
IF YOU DON'T UNDERSTAND THAT, YOU ARE GONNA DIE.
THAT'S THE POINT.
WELL, MAYBE. LET'S FIND OUT.
THAT'LL BE GREAT.
IT'S MY LAST DAY IN CHILE AND MY LAST CHANCE
TO SHOVE ENOUGH SEAFOOD IN MY FACE AS HUMANLY POSSIBLE.
AND A GOOD PLACE TO START IS RIGHT HERE.
ABOUT 45 MINUTES EAST OF THE CLIFFS PATAGONIA
IS THE VILLAGE OF PUERTO MONTT.
LIKE MANY OF THE TOWNS IN THE CHILEAN LAKE DISTRICT,
THIS INLAND PORT BOASTS A HEAVY GERMANIC INFLUENCE.
AND THIS VILLAGE'S LOCATION ON RELONCAVI SOUND
MEANS THIS MARKET BOASTS A HEAVY ARRAY OF SEAFOOD.
SEA URCHIN, HERMIT CRABS, LOCAL CHEESES,
FISH OF EVERY VARIETY, AND, OF COURSE, SNACKS.
READY?
READY?
MMM!
OH, THAT'S GOOD. I'LL HAVE ANOTHER ONE OF THOSE.
MMM!
OH, THE GREATEST STUFF ON EARTH.
SQUEEZE FIRST?
BITTER.
[ CHUCKLES ]
MMM!
[ SPEAKS SPANISH ]
OH, THAT'S A BELLY BOMB.
COOL, HUH?
BUT THESE TREATS HAVE ONLY STOKED MY APPETITE,
SO I'M HEADING OVER TO THE NEIGHBORING VILLAGE
OF PUERTO VARAS TO GET A BIGGER SEAFOOD FIX.
SITUATED ON THE SHORE OF THE CRYSTALLINE LAKE LLANQUIHUE,
THIS PICTURESQUE LITTLE ALPINE TOWN
IS LIKE SOMETHING STRAIGHT OUT OF "THE SOUND OF MUSIC."
MY FRIEND ALFREDO, A LOCAL INNKEEPER OF SORTS,
MEETS ME AT DONDE EL GORDITO,
WHICH TRANSLATES, I BELIEVE, TO "WHERE'S THE LITTLE FAT GUY?"
WHAT SHOULD I DRINK? I THINK THAT'S THE FIRST THING.
YOU KNOW ABOUT THE PISCO SOURS, OF COURSE.
YEAH, I HAD A FEW OF THOSE LAST NIGHT.
[ LAUGHS ]
MAYBE A GLASS OF WINE -- WHITE WINE?
YEAH, WHITE WINE SOUNDS GOOD.
PISCO SOUR? NAH.
THAT'LL BE GREAT.
SO, WHO LIVES IN THIS COMMUNITY, IN THIS TOWN?
EXPATRIATE COMMUNITY?
YES.
A FAIRLY SIZEABLE GERMAN POPULATION, STILL?
YES, STILL.
THAT THEY CREATED THIS AREA.
RIGHT.
NOW, AS I UNDERSTAND IT,
THEY WTO COME CLEAR THE LAND.
YES.
KILL THE INDAND SETTLE.PLE,
OF COURSE.
MAYBE THAT'S A SIMPLISTIC WAY TO PUT IT.
BUT IT WAS THE WAY.
BUT ON THE OTHER HAND, THAT INFLUENCE IS STILL HERE.
IF YOU GO AROUND THIS LLANQUIHUE LAKE,
YOU CAN FIND DIFFERENT PLACES
WHERE THEY STILL HAVE THE SAME CONCEPT
IN TERMS OF GERMAN STYLE, GERMAN WAY OF LIFE.
STRONG GERMAN INFLUENCE IN THE FOOD?
OF COURSE.
LUCKILY, THERE'S NO SCHNITZEL OR LEDERHOSEN
ON THE AGENDA TODAY.
CORVINA IS KIND OF THE KING OF FISH AROUND HERE,
AND AT GORDITO, THEY SAUTé IT AND BURY IT
IN A SUPER-RICH SALPICON OF KING CRAB LEGS...
OH, WOW.
CORVINA WITH A KING CRAB SAUCE.
...SMOTHERED IN A DECADENT CRAB-AND-COGNAC CREAM SAUCE.
NOW, THAT'S SKIMPING ON THE CRAB.
WELL DONE.
BUT AFTER A FEW DAYS IN CHILE, I'VE COME TO REALIZE
THAT FINDING INCREDIBLY FRESH SEAFOOD HERE
IS KIND OF LIKE FINDING CHLAMYDIA AT BURNING MAN.
IT'S PRETTY MUCH EVERYWHERE YOU LOOK.
AND WITH THE VIRTUALLY ENDLESS DEMAND FOR SEAFOOD WORLDWIDE,
IT'S A HUGE SOURCE OF REVENUE
AND, THEORETICALLY, A RENEWABLE ONE AS WELL --
THEORETICALLY.
20, 30 YEARS AGO,
THEY FOUND THAT THE WATERS HERE WERE PERFECT FOR FISH FARMING.
AND THEY GOT THE FARMS VERY CLOSE TO EACH OTHER.
THE FISH GET SICK IN ONE PENNED AREA
AND IT SPTO THE OTHERS.ILY
YES.
DO THEY TREAT THE FISH WITH ANTIBIOTICS?
YES.
A LOT OF GENETIC, A LOT OF ANTIBIOTICS,
A LOT OF EXTRA PROTEINS.
ON BALANCE, THOUGH, I MEAN,
FISH FARMING PROBABLY HELPED MODERNIZE, EDUCATE,
CLOTHE, HOUSE GENERATIONS OF CHILDREN.
I MEAN, WHAT DO YOU THINK?
CAN YOU MAKE A DISTINCTION
AS SIMPLE AS "FISH FARMING -- GOOD OR BAD"?
IT DOESN'T MATTER WHAT IS THE ACTIVITY.
YOU HAVE TO CREATE IT AND WORK IT THAT IT'S SUSTAINABLE.
IT'S NOT A MORAL QUESTION. IT'S A PRACTICAL QUESTION.
IT'S A PRACTICAL QUESTION.
YOU'RE NOT GONNA HAVE A BUSINESS IN A FEW YEARS IF YOU KEEP --
YEAH, IF YOU PRODUCE ORGANIC, YOU CAN ASK FOR MORE PRICE.
AND YORGANICALLY.FISH
OF COURSE.
I THINK THERE IS A HUGE HOPE IN THE FUTURE.
AND IF YOU TALK WITH MY DAUGHTER, FOR EXAMPLE,
SHE IS ONLY 17.
SHE THINKS ABOUT WORK EVERY DAY FOR FULFILL HER DESIRES.
IT'S THAT KIND OF ATTITUDE. YOU HAVE TO WORK.
NOBODY'S GONNA GIVE YOU SOMETHING FOR FREE.
AND THAT'S A HERITAGE FROM THE PINOCHET TIME.
YOU HAVE TO WORK.
A DRIVE BORNE OUT OF TOUGH TIMES
PUSHES CHILE TO SOLVE ITS PROBLEMS AND MOVE FORWARD.
IN MANY WAYS, IT'S ALREADY WAY OUT IN FRONT.
WHAT'S GOOD FOR A COUNTRY
IN THE SHORT RUN AND IN THE LONG
IS SOMETHING CHILE IN PARTICULAR
HAS HAD TO COME TO TERMS WITH.
WHAT'S FOR SURE IS THAT NOBODY ELSE SHOULD DECIDE FOR THEM.
WHAT'S ALSO SURE
IS THAT IT'S ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL PLACES I'VE BEEN.
WHERE SO MUCH WENT BAD,
SO MANY THINGS ARE NOW BETTER THAN EVER.
OH, THAT'S DELICIOUS. YUM.
IT'S NICE DOWN HERE, AND IT TASTED GOOD.
JUST WATCH OUT FOR THE HOT DOGS.