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(Anthony) BETWEEN LATE 2009 AND MID 2010,
I WAS DOING A LOT OF TRAVELING BETWEEN SHOWS
FOR SPEAKING GIGS AND TALKS THROUGHOUT AMERICA'S HEARTLAND.
(man) STAND BY TO CUE MR. BOURDAIN.
AND WE'RE A GO. CUE MR. BOURDAIN.
OKAY. (speaking indistinctly)
(Anthony) ONE-NIGHT STANDS BETWEEN FILMING EPISODES--
FLY IN, SHOVE FOOD IN FACE.
(cheers and applause)
NEXT TOWN.
ALONG THE WAY, AS HAPPENS EVERY TIME
I CROSS MY COUNTRY, I SAW A FEW THINGS.
THESE ARE SOME OF THEM.
(man yelling)
THAT'S RIGHT!
I WRITE. I TRAVEL.
I EAT, AND I'M HUNGRY FOR MORE.
♪ OOH, YOU'VE GOT TO ♪
♪ GET LOST ♪
NO RESERVATIONS.
♪♪
(Anthony) IT WOULD BE EASY, I GUESS,
FROM THE FRENETIC, JADED,
FOODIE CONFINES OF NEW YORK OR SAN FRANCISCO
TO KIND OF LOOK AT THE-- THE VAST OPEN SPACES
OUT THERE BETWEEN NEW YORK AND SAN FRANCISCO,
YOU KNOW, WITH A KIND OF PATRONIZING ATTITUDE,
UH, TO MAKE THE USUAL JOKES,
TO SUPPOSE THAT SOMEHOW OUT THERE IT'S UNSOPHISTICATED,
THAT IT'S A WASTELAND.
BUT THE FACT IS THERE HAVE BEEN CHEFS ALL ACROSS AMERICA
FOR A LONG TIME NOW OUT THERE FIGHTING THE GOOD FIGHT.
THEY'RE OUT THERE JUST LIKE CHEFS IN NEW YORK,
OPENING RESTAURANTS, CREATING MENUS
THAT--THAT NOBODY IN THE MARKET
WAS PARTICULARLY ASKING FOR.
MORE OFTEN THAN NOT THESE DAYS, THEY'RE MAKING A SUCCESS OF IT,
REALLY, REALLY GOOD FOOD,
SOME SHOCKINGLY WEIRD FOOD
THAT NEW YORKERS WOULD BE JUST AS SURPRISED BY AS ANYBODY ELSE.
HEROIC FOOD.
SO THAT'S WHAT THIS SHOW'S ABOUT.
IT'S ABOUT A GROUP OF CHEFS WHO DUG THEIR HEELS IN
AND DECIDED, "I'M DOING THIS.
"I DON'T CARE WHAT ANYBODY THINKS.
THIS IS WHAT I LIKE, AND THIS IS WHAT I'M GOING TO DO, PERIOD."
THIS SHOULD COME AS A SURPRISE TO NO ONE.
BUT IT MIGHT.
♪♪
I LOVE DETROIT.
I LOVE ANN ARBOR EVEN MORE,
A PLACE WITH AN EXPLODING, RIDICULOUSLY QUIRKY
AND ADVANCED FOOD SCENE.
BUT I LOVE THIS GUY-- THE MAN, THE LEGEND,
CHEF BRIAN POLCYN-- BEST OF ALL.
NOW ISN'T IT TRUE THAT VENISON
(man) THAT I COULDN'T TELL YA.
I READ AN ARTICLE, SOMETHING LIKE THAT.
HE'S BEEN OUT HERE DOING GOD'S WORK,
LITERALLY WRITING THE BOOK-- NO, REALLY, THE BOOK--
ON CHARCUTERIE SINCE, LIKE, FOREVER.
YOU SIMPLY CANNOT TALK MICHIGAN WITHOUT TALKING ABOUT BRIAN.
I WAS STILL ONLY A PUPPY
WHEN CHEF POLCYN WAS OUT HERE ALONE ON THE CUTTING EDGE
OF AMERICAN MEAT CURING AND SMOKING.
(cell phone rings)
THAT'S GREAT.
ALL RIGHT.
CHARCUTERIE HAS A WAY OF FOLLOWING BRIAN
WHEREVER HE GOES.
HE SERVES IT AT HIS RESTAURANT FOREST GRILL.
HE WROTE THE DEFINITIVE BOOK ON THE SUBJECT,
ALONG WITH RUHLMAN, I BELIEVE.
AND HE ALSO TEACHES--
THE PREEMINENT AUTHORITY ON THE SUBJECT NATIONWIDE.
BLOOD IS YOUR ENEMY. GOOD LUCK.
HAPPY TO HELP YOU OUT. THANK YOU.
WITH HIS REPUTATION,
BRIAN COULD PROBABLY BE JUST ABOUT ANYWHERE.
(all) FLAVOR.
FRIEND.
FAT.
THAT'S RIGHT. IF YOU LEARN THOSE THREE THINGS IN THIS CLASS,
YET HERE HE IS OUT HERE,
AT SCHOOLCRAFT COLLEGE IN LIVONIA, MICHIGAN,
EXACTLY WHERE HE WANTS TO BE,
TEACHING ANCIENT PRE-REFRIGERATION SKILLS
FOR MAKING MAGIC WITH MEAT AND GAME.
(Brian) PRACTICING CHARCUTERIE IS LIKE A LAWYER PRACTICES LAW
OR A DOCTOR PRACTICES MEDICINE.
YOU DON'T STOP. YOU DON'T STOP LEARNING.
THAT'S WHAT'S SO EXCITING ABOUT IT.
THERE ARE SO MANY VARIABLE CONDITIONS
THAT CAN CAUSE SUCCESS AND FAILURE.
THERE IS NO FORMULA. WHAT I'D HAVE TO TEACH YOU
IS THE MENTALITY ABOUT THE RESPECT
OF THE INGREDIENTS AND THE FOOD,
AND HAVE YOU UNDERSTAND THAT PRINCIPLE,
AND THAT'S WHAT I DO HERE IN THE CLASSROOM.
CLASS IS IN SESSION.
TODAY'S SUBJECT MATTER-- FRESH, LOCAL VENISON.
VENISON BY NATURE IS A LEAN MEAT,
THE VENISON MEAT IS EMULSIFIED
WITH PORK FAT, SALT, SEASONINGS,
BECOMING, AS THEY SAY,
FORCEMEAT.
THEN IT'S FORCED INTO NATURAL CASINGS.
AN OLD GERMAN SAYING, RIGHT--
THERE'S TWO THINGS THAT YOU ABSOLUTELY NEED,
BUT DON'T NECESSARILY HAVE TO KNOW HOW THEY'RE DONE--
(Anthony) RIGHT.
WELL, THEY ALSO SAY EVERYONE LIKES POLICY,
AND EVERYBODY LIKES SAUSAGE,
EXACTLY. RIGHT.
MEASURE, PINCH, EVERY OTHER ONE'S TWISTED.
AND THAT'S THE SECRET TO LINKING SAUSAGE--VERY EASY.
EVERYBODY'S GOT FREEZERS FULL OF DEER,
AND A LOT OF 'EM DON'T KNOW HOW TO COOK THE STUFF.
I'LL TELL YOU WHAT, YOU'RE EXACTLY RIGHT.
MOST PEOPLE TAKE THAT ANIMAL,
TAKE THE BACK SHANKS OFF FOR STEAKS, AND THAT'S IT,
WHICH IS RIDICULOUS,
BECAUSE THERE'S SO MANY GOOD THINGS YOU CAN DO WITH VENISON.
LIKE SMOKING YOUR VENISON SAUSAGE.
SO THESE WERE DONE YESTERDAY.
AND I PUT 'EM IN THIS MORNING.
(Anthony) OH, YEAH.
RIGHT.
OVER HERE--WE'VE GOT DRIED SAUSAGE OVER HERE.
(Anthony) YEAH.
THIS IS THE DRYING ROOM,
WHERE THE MYSTERIOUS ACTION,
THE FRIENDLY MICROBES AND THE PASSAGE OF TIME
DO THEIR WORK.
RIGHT.
AND THERE ARE NATURAL ORGANISMS IN THE AIR.
AND THE TRICK ABOUT MOLD
IS THERE'S GOOD MOLDS AND BAD MOLDS.
WHICHEVER ONE THERE ARE MOST OF, THAT'S WHAT WINS.
THIS IS GOOD. HOW DO YOU GET GOOD MOLD?
WELL, I'VE GOTTEN GOOD SAUSAGE FROM A GOOD MAKER
RIGHT.
SO IT'S--IT'S LIKE BRINGING PARIS HILTON TO A PARTY.
PRETTY SOON EVERYBODY'S GOT WHAT SHE'S GOT.
YEAH.
AFTER WEEKS OR MONTHS OR PRESCRIBED PERIOD OF TIME,
YOU'VE GOT HAM OR SAUSAGE OR SOMETHING DELICIOUS.
(Anthony) LOMO.
YEAH, THAT'S REALLY NICE.
OKAY. THIS IS, UH, CALABRIA SOPRESSATA.
MMM.
THE EXTENT OF BRIAN'S REACH IS MIND-BLOWING.
THERE'S NO MEAT, NO STYLE,
NO RECIPE FROM ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD
HE CANNOT DUPLICATE OR SOMETIMES EVEN IMPROVE.
I LOOK AT FAILURE--
I DON'T CALL IT-- I SAY "CHALLENGE."
I SAY BRING IT ON. I'M FROM DETROIT.
YOU DON'T LIKE IT, I'LL BURN YOUR CAR, OKAY?
YOU COME AT ME WITH YOUR FISTS, I'LL COME AT YOU WITH A KNIFE.
YOU COME AT ME WITH A KNIFE, I'LL COME AT YOU WITH A GUN.
YOU COME AT ME WITH A GUN, YOU BETTER KILL ME,
'CAUSE I'M GONNA KEEP COMING BACK TILL ONE OF US IS DEAD,
I LOVE--THAT'S A DETROIT ATTITUDE
YEAH, THERE IT IS. SO BRING IT ON, BABE.
SOMETHING ELSE I LOVE-- THIS VENISON TERRINE,
WRAPPED IN BACON, OF COURSE.
CHANTERELLES AND THE TENDERLOIN.
RIGHT.
(speaking indistinctly)
ABSOLUTELY.
MMM. WHY? YOU KNOW,
OKAY, HERE-- YOU KNOW,
THAT'S A VERY GOOD QUESTION. YOU SOUND LIKE MY WIFE.
YOU DON'T HAVE TO MAKE TERRINES.
I DON'T HAVE TO MAKE CHARCUTERIE.
YOU DON'T HAVE TO--WE DON'T-- YOU KNOW, THIS WAS ALL INVENTED
RIGHT.
YOU DON'T HAVE TO DO IT? WHY? BECAUSE IT TASTES SO GOOD.
YOU KNOW WHAT IT DOES FOR ME? IT BRINGS ME HAPPINESS INSIDE.
AND I TOLD YOU BEFORE, I COOK FOR MYSELF FIRST.
AND IF IT PASSES ME, I'M PROBABLY GONNA PLEASE
ABOUT 99% OF PEOPLE OUT THERE, WHICH IS GOOD FOR ME.
MM-HMM.
AND GOOD FOOD COMES FROM YOUR SOUL,
AND IF THAT'S WHAT YOU HAVE AND THAT'S WHAT YOU DO
HELL YEAH. WELL SAID.
COMING UP,
SOMETHING COMPLETELY UNEXPECTED IN OHIO.
IT REALLY IS HARD TO BELIEVE THAT WE'RE IN COLUMBUS.
OH, MY GOD, RUHLMAN.
NO RESERVATIONS.
COLUMBUS, OHIO,
IT MAY BE NAMED AFTER CHRISTOPHER COLUMBUS,
BUT I ADMIT I'VE NEVER REALLY THOUGHT OF IT
AS THE EDGE OF ANY KIND OF NEW WORLD.
EVEN IN OHIO, PEOPLE GIVE YOU A QUIZZICAL LOOK
WHEN YOU SAY YOU ATE REALLY, REALLY WELL IN COLUMBUS,
LIKE YOU'RE ABOUT TO DROP THE PUNCH LINE OR SOMETHING.
NOT SO.
IN A STRIP MALL OUTSIDE OF COLUMBUS,
ACTUALLY A STRIP MALL INSIDE ANOTHER MALL--
TO SAY IT'S THE MIDDLE OF FREAKIN' NOWHERE
WOULD BE AN UNDERSTATEMENT,
AND YET HERE YOU FIND THIS MAN.
MEET CHEF MICHAEL KIMURA.
HE GREW UP IN A NEARLY AS REMOTE FISHING VILLAGE
IN JAPAN,
WENT TO CULINARY SCHOOL IN FAMOUSLY FOODIE OSAKA
AND THEN AFTER A BRIEF TIME IN NEW YORK,
CAME HERE.
YES?
WHY HERE?
YEAH.
THAT'S ALWAYS A GOOD SIGN.
MORE RECENTLY ARRIVED IN COLUMBUS, RUHLMAN,
FOOD WRITER, PROUD ADVOCATE OF HIS HOME CITY OF CLEVELAND,
FOOD SNOB OF THE FIRST ORDER
AND FREQUENT COCONSPIRATOR
IN SOME OF MY MORE LURID AND SHAMEFUL MISADVENTURES.
IT REALLY IS HARD TO BELIEVE THAT WE'RE IN COLUMBUS,
(speaking indistinctly)
INTERESTING.
IT SAYS BUCKEYE STATE TO ME.
(laughs)
I DIDN'T KNOW THEY HAD LIVERS, BUT NOW WE DO.
MMM.
IT HAS A GREAT BITE.
WHAT PERCENTAGE OF YOUR CUSTOMERS ARE JAPANESE,
50-50.
YEAH.
THAT'S A SURPRISE TO ME BECAUSE I KNOW THE PEOPLE HERE,
AND IT'S NOT--IT'S NOT--
YOU'RE LOOKING OVER YOUR SHOULDER LIKE, YOU KNOW--
YOU'RE ON TV, DUDE.
I MEAN, IT'S-- THEY'RE GONNA HEAR YOU.
SEA SQUIRT, YEAH.
IT'S EXTRAORDINARY.
YEAH, DEFINITELY IS SORT OF SALTY.
BRINY.
YEAH. AGAIN, THE TEXTURAL THING IS REALLY IMPORTANT.
FOR MOST AMERICANS, THIS WOULD BE A DIFFICULT DISH.
OH, REALLY?
YEAH.
THIS IS LIKE STONE-COLD AUTHENTIC.
JUST DON'T PUT ANY WASABI IN THE THE SOY SAUCE.
THAT'S--YOU'LL BE DEAD TO THE MAN FROM THAT POINT ON.
NEXT CHEF KIMURA PREPARES
SASHIMI OF JAPANESE HORSE MACKEREL.
(Anthony speaking indistinctly)
YEAH.
OH, YES, MY FRIEND. KEEP AN EYE ON THE CARCASSES.
(laughs)
SO PRETTY.
WHY CAN'T I DO THAT?
IF I COULD COME BACK AS SOMEBODY ELSE,
I COULD DO THIS DURING THE DAY,
AND AT NIGHT I COULD PLAY BASS LIKE BOOTSY COLLINS.
OH, SO GOOD.
IT'S THE KING OF FISH.
I DIDN'T KNOW YOU COULD GET IT IN COLUMBUS.
THEN THE MACKEREL CARCASSES GET CRISPY FRIED
LIKE THEY WOULD IN JAPAN.
I KNEW THAT WE WERE GONNA HAVE THAT.
I SAW IT, AND I WAS HOPING.
ALL DAY LONG, MAN.
SALTY, CRISPY, REALLY DELICATELY FISHY, BUT NOT FISHY,
YOU KNOW, JUST REALLY NICE.
IN FACT, WHAT'S MORE AMERICAN THAN SALTY, CRISPY, CRUNCHY?
AND THEN THIS--
TUNA COLLAR IN COLUMBUS,
ONE OF THE GREATEST PIECES OF FISH
TO EVER APPEAR ON A PLATE ANYWHERE.
REALLY?
OF COURSE.
I LOVE THIS. THIS IS ONE OF MY FAVORITE THINGS.
YEAH.
OH, MAN. THAT'S NICE.
YEAH.
SO RICH.
THIS RIVALS PORK BELLY.
THIS IS THE NEXT BIG THING.
A, THEY'RE GREAT.
B, AT LEAST AT THE MOMENT, THEY'RE CHEAP.
C, NOTHING GOES BETTER WITH ALCOHOL THAN THIS.
IT'S GOOD FOR YOU.
IT'S POLITICALLY CORRECT.
I MEAN, YOU'RE USING SOMETHING
THAT WOULD HAVE ENDED UP IN THE GARBAGE ANYWAY.
IT'S UNBELIEVABLY LUSCIOUS.
IT'S THE BEST (bleep), I'M SAYING.
I'M HAVING ONE OF THOSE MOMENTS WHERE, YOU KNOW,
IT'S LIKE, YOU KNOW, THIS IS NOT THE WORLD YOU KNOW.
I LOVE MY STEAK, BUT THIS IS APPLEBEE'S COUNTRY.
BUT APPARENTLY IT'S NOT.
GIVE YOUR FELLOW CITIZENS A BREAK, MAN.
STOP TALKING DOWN TO THEM IN YOUR ELITIST WAYS.
YEAH.
ASKED ME IF WE HAD INDOOR PLUMBING.
(laughs)
I KID. I KID, 'CAUSE I LOVE.
LIKE SO MANY OF THE PLACES YOU GO THESE DAYS,
THERE ARE COMMON ELEMENTS
WHICH SIGNAL THE ONSET OF EXCELLENCE,
THE ARRIVAL OF DELICIOUSNESS,
ONE, AND MAYBE THE MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR,
BEING THE PRESENCE OF CRAZY PEOPLE,
PEOPLE CRAZY ENOUGH TO DO SOMETHING DIFFERENT.
♪♪
MEET GARY ROBINETTE AND CLEVER CROW PIZZA.
GARY HAD A REAL JOB ONCE
ON ONE OF THOSE COASTS PEOPLE TALK ABOUT
BEFORE RETURNING TO COLUMBUS
WITH HIS WIFE TO START A FAMILY.
THIS COINCIDED WITH AN URGE TO MAKE HIS OWN
PEPPERCORN-CRUSTED SMOKED PORK LOIN,
PICKLED VEGETABLES
AND HIGHBRED ORGANIC CORNMEAL AND SOURDOUGH CRUST.
AND, OH, YEAH, TO DO IT ALL BY HIMSELF.
JUST--JUST ME. I DON'T HAVE ANY EMPLOYEES.
THEN HE HEARD ABOUT THE DISUSED KITCHEN
IN THE BACK OF CIRCUS, A LOCAL BAR.
AND I SAID, "WELL, LET ME MAKE PIZZAS."
THIS IS MY INTERPRETATION OF PORK CHOPS AND APPLESAUCE.
THIS IS A CASHEW AND RED PEPPER PURéE
WITH CAYENNE IN IT.
I DON'T KNOW.
WHEN I WAS A KID, I ALWAYS KIND OF MIXED FOODS
TOGETHER ON MY PLATE.
SO IT'S JUST REALLY KIND OF A WAY
TO GET IT ALL TO YOUR MOUTH SIMULTANEOUSLY
AND KIND OF ENJOY IT ALL TOGETHER.
THIS IS THE CROW,
CROWS BEING LOVERS OF CORN.
THE CLEVER CROW HOUSE SPECIAL WITH MOZZARELLA,
SMOKED PROVOLONE, SWEET CORN, BALSAMIC RED ONION
AND, OF COURSE, PORK.
THERE'S ABOUT A 1/2 A POUND OF SAUSAGE ON A WHOLE PIZZA.
NATURALLY, HE MAKES THE SAUSAGE HIMSELF,
SMOKES IT HIMSELF WITH A SMOKER OUT BACK.
HELL, HE EVEN MAKES HIS OWN PIE SPACERS.
HE'S LIKE THE MacGYVER OF PIZZA.
THIS OTHER ONE IS THE RILLETTE PIZZA.
I MADE MINE WITH PORK LOIN.
THIS IS THE PICKLED CORN.
IT'S LIKE A PICKLED CORN SALSA,
CHIPOTLE PEPPERS AND ADOBO SAUCE.
IT JUST MAKES SENSE IF IT'S--
IF IT'S NOT ON A PIZZA AND IT TASTES GOOD,
THEN IT'LL PROBABLY TASTE GOOD ON PIZZA.
IN SOMEONE ELSE'S HANDS, MAYBE NOT,
BUT WITH GARY, IT'S ALL GOOD.
A LOT OF PEOPLE IN COLUMBUS
REALLY LIKE TO STICK-BUILD THEIR PIZZAS AS THEY GO, YOU KNOW,
SO THEY WANT THIS ON A PIZZA AND THAT.
THE PIZZAS ARE PRETTY MUCH JUST SOLD AS IS.
THAT'S KIND OF HARD FOR PEOPLE TO ACCEPT.
BUT TRUST HIM.
GARY HAS A REASON FOR EVERYTHING HE DOES.
IT JUST TASTES WAY BETTER.
I MEAN, HANDS DOWN, THERE'S NO COMPARISON.
UP NEXT, AUSTIN,
A TOWN IN TEXAS I ACTUALLY REALLY LIKE.
(Anthony) THAT'S AN EXAMPLE OF SOMETHING NOBODY WAS ASKING FOR.
WE THINK IT'S REALLY (bleep) GOOD.
NO RESERVATIONS.
AUSTIN, TEXAS,
ANOTHER CITY I'M REALLY HAPPY TO SEE
IN THE MIDDLE OF A LONG TOUR.
AN ANOMALY SMACK IN THE MIDDLE OF TEXAS,
IT'S A YOUNG CITY,
A STUDENT POPULATION OF 50,000
WITH OVER 200 MUSIC VENUES
AND SOME OF THE BEST INDEPENDENT RADIO
IN THE COUNTRY.
IT SHOULD COME AS NO SURPRISE THEN
THAT THERE'S A VERY EXCITING FOOD SCENE HERE.
SOME TIME AGO WHEN I WASN'T LOOKING,
COLLEGE-AGED KIDS STARTED TO GIVE A (bleep) ABOUT FOOD.
SHOWS YOU HOW HOPELESSLY OUT OF IT I AM,
BUT THERE IT IS.
WHAT'S UP WITH AUSTIN? WHY IS--
THIS PLACE IS UNLIKE ANY PLACE IN TEXAS I'VE EVER BEEN.
THERE'S JUST, LIKE, AN ENTREPRENEURIAL SPIRIT HERE.
LIKE, PEOPLE DO COOL STUFF. IT'S KIND OF GET THIS EDGINESS TO IT.
THE SLOGAN'S, LIKE, "KEEP AUSTIN WEIRD."
CHEF LARRY McGUIRE AND CHEF TOMMY MOORMAN
OF PERLA'S,
LANDLOCKED AUSTIN'S PLACE FOR SCREAMINGLY FRESH SEAFOOD.
WHY? HOW? WHO ARE THESE GUYS?
WE ARE YOUNG AND, I MEAN,
IT WAS AMAZING THAT ANYONE EVEN GAVE US MONEY
MM-HMM.
AND I THINK THAT'S ONLY REALLY POSSIBLE IF WE WERE IN AUSTIN.
LIKE, AT FANCY RESTAURANTS,
YOU DON'T JUST SEE OLD RICH PEOPLE EATING OUT.
GOING OUT TO EAT HAS BECOME A COUNTERCULTURAL EXPERIENCE?
THERE ARE ALL THESE SORT OF, YOU KNOW, YOUNG FOOD NERDS.
PEOPLE ARE JUST KIND OF GEEKING OUT ON IT, YOU KNOW.
TOM AND I ARE STILL REALLY YOUNG,
BUT WE'VE BEEN DOING IT
SINCE WE WERE KIND OF IN HIGH SCHOOL AND STUFF.
SO WHAT ARE THESE GUYS GEEKING OUT ON THEN?
FRESH FISH VERY SIMPLY DONE,
AND I TRY TO FIND AS MANY OYSTERS AS WE CAN ALL THE TIME.
AT ANY TIME PERLA'S HAS UP TO 20 DIFFERENT OYSTERS
ON THE MENU.
IT'S WELLFLEETS WITH SOME QUONSET POINTS.
WELLFLEETS, SEE, THESE ARE THE OYSTERS OF MY YOUTH.
IT'S NOT SOMETIMES WHAT A PLACE IS
MMM.
IT'S WHAT THEY DECIDE NOT TO BE,
THE THINGS THEY RESTRAIN THEMSELVES FROM DOING.
WE KIND OF KEEP EVERYTHING PRETTY CLASSIC.
SOMETIMES WE'RE TEMPTED TO DO, LIKE, LITTLE OYSTER PREPARATIONS
WHERE EACH ONE'S GOT ITS OWN LITTLE THING,
MATCHING ITS FLAVOR PROFILE AND STUFF,
BUT FOR THE MOST PART, TO ME, LIKE,
IT DOESN'T GET MUCH BETTER THAN JUST SOME FRESH HORSERADISH,
LEMON, COLD OYSTERS.
THE OYSTER IS A PERFECT THING.
I EAT 'EM FOR BREAKFAST WITH COFFEE.
NO.
AS ANY GOOD ITALIAN OR SPANIARD, FOR INSTANCE,
KNOWS IN THEIR BONES,
WITH SEAFOOD, IT'S ABOUT FINDING THE BEST
AND THEN NOT (bleep) IT UP,
TAKING A MINIMALIST APPROACH.
IF YOU'RE GONNA DO RED SNAPPER, THAT'S THE WAY, RIGHT?
ON THE BONE.
RED SNAPPER SIMPLY GRILLED OVER OAK.
IT'S, LIKE, WHATEVER YOU LIKE.
YOU KNOW, THAT'S, LIKE, OUR KIND OF PHILOSOPHY.
REALLY?
WELL, MAYBE JUST A FEW SUBTLE NUDGES.
TAKE THE HEAD OFF. REALLY?
YEAH. BUT, I MEAN, IT'S JUST LIKE EAT THE CHEEKS AND STUFF.
GO FOR THE CHEEK LIKE ANY GENTLEMAN OF THE WORLD WOULD.
OTHER MENU ITEMS, THEY PUSH THE ENVELOPE,
BUT JUST A TOUCH.
NOT A FISH I SEE A LOT OF, TRIGGERFISH.
UH-HUH.
YEAH, IT'S KIND OF A TRASH FISH.
TRIGGERFISH, WHICH WILL PROBABLY BE PAYING OUT
THE (bleep) FOR US SOON, SO CATCH IT AND EAT IT NOW.
THEY CALL IT GRILLING ON THE HALF SHELL,
WHICH MEANS THE FILLET IS COOKED ONLY ON ONE SIDE,
SKIN LEFT ON LIKE THE SHELL OF A CLAM.
THAT'S AN EXAMPLE OF SOMETHING NOBODY WAS ASKING FOR.
YEAH.
YEAH, IT DOESN'T SELL VERY WELL HERE,
BUT WE'RE JUST GONNA LEAVE IT ON UNTIL--
PEOPLE THAT LIKE IT, LIKE, LOVE IT.
WE FINISH OFF WITH OCTOPUS BRAISED IN ITS OWN JUICES,
SLICED, GRILLED AND SERVED ON FRIED POTATOES WITH AIOLI.
IT'S BASICALLY PAPAS BRAVAS WITH OCTOPUS ON TOP.
IT'S REALLY NICE.
WHAT'S THE WRONG THING TO DO HERE
IT'S REALLY HARD TO DO HIGH-END HERE.
ALSO KIND OF (bleep) PLACES HAVE THE VELVET ROPE TYPE THING.
YEAH, THAT DOESN'T WORK HERE.
NO.
THE CORNERSTONE OF THE (bleep) BASED ECONOMY
BOTTLE SERVICE.
YOU TALK AUSTIN,
YOU SHOULD TALK ABOUT THE FOOD TRUCKS AND TRAILERS.
IT'S PROBABLY THE SINGLE MOST EXCITING DISTINGUISHING FACTOR
IN TOWN RIGHT NOW.
WE'RE NOT TALKING ABOUT SOFT SERVE IN A CUP
OR FRIED MEAT ON A STICK,
THOUGH I'M ALL FOR BOTH THOSE THINGS.
WE'RE TALKING ABOUT SOME SERIOUSLY QUIRKY FOOD
FROM YOUNG CHEFS USING A RELATIVELY CHEAP OVERHEAD
OF A KITCHEN ON WHEELS TO DO WONDERFUL, WONDERFUL THINGS.
I GOT A FLYING PIG AND A FUNKY MONKEY TO GO.
A VINTAGE AIRSTREAM TRAILER,
GOURDOUGH'S DONUTS.
WE WERE THINKING, WELL, THE DOUGHNUT IS JUST A BASE,
AND WE CAN REALLY DO ANYTHING WITH THAT.
FRIED CHICKEN STRIP AND HONEY BUTTER
OR HOW ABOUT CANADIAN BACON,
CREAM CHEESE AND JALAPEÑO JELLY
OR MAKE YOUR OWN.
(woman) THE BEST NIGHT IN THE WORLD
IS TO GO AND HAVE A COUPLE OF REALLY AWESOME MARTINIS
AND JUST WALK OVER HERE IN YOUR DRUNKEN HAZE,
AND THIS MAKES THE BEST DRUNK FOOD.
AND RIGHT NEXT DOOR,
A CLASSIC SCENE FROM A RESTAURANT,
A CHEF EXPLAINS THE DAILY SPECIALS TO HIS STAFF.
DUCK CONFIT'S THE LEG, OKAY.
BUT HERE AT A TRAILER APTLY NAMED THE ODD DUCK,
CHEF BRYCE GILMORE BRINGS FARM TO TABLE
IN A MORE MOVEABLE FEAST KIND OF A WAY,
SLOW FOOD FAST.
(Bryce) EVERY DAY I KIND OF CHANGE THINGS UP,
JUST DEPENDS ON WHAT'S IN SEASON.
SO I'M REALLY EXCITED KIND OF NOW.
WE'RE STARTING TO GET IN A LOT OF THE SPRING INGREDIENTS.
I'M NOT DOING TACOS AND HOT DOGS
AND HAMBURGERS AND STUFF LIKE THAT.
I KIND OF WANTED TO DO SOMETHING DIFFERENT,
KIND OF SHOWCASE THE INGREDIENTS WE HAVE AROUND HERE
AND MAKE IT AVAILABLE TO EVERYBODY, YOU KNOW,
WITHOUT THEM HAVING TO GO SPEND A RIDICULOUS AMOUNT OF MONEY.
SLOW-ROASTED PORK BELLY SLIDER,
COFFEE-RUBBED FOR YOUR PLEASURE,
COOKED LOW AND SLOW
AND SERVED WITH PICKLED RED ONIONS,
GRILLED QUAIL WITH GOAT CHEESE AND PICKLED BEETS,
ROASTED BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH BUTTER, CAPERS, LEMON JUICE
AND RABBIT BELLY?
I AM LOWER THAN WHALE (bleep). THIS IS STREET FOOD IN AUSTIN?
(woman) THE BUNNY BELLY IS AWESOME.
(man) OH, YEAH.
ACROSS TOWN THERE'S EAST SIDE KING'S,
A LATE-NIGHT SPOT TUCKED BEHIND EAST AUSTIN'S LIBERTY BAR
WHERE MOTO UTSONOMAYA AND PAUL QUI
ARE SERVING THEIR OWN MASH-UP OF JAPANESE DRUNK FOOD FUSION.
MAN, A LOT OF IT IS BASICALLY WHAT WE EAT FOR FAMILY MEAL
AND INSPIRATION FROM OTHER CITIES LIKE NEW YORK,
LIKE DAVID CHANG'S PORK BUNS.
I HAD THEM, AND I WAS LIKE, HEY, I WANT TO EAT THAT ALL THE TIME.
I WANT TO EAT THAT BEING THE ONLY RULE,
AND I DO WANT TO EAT THAT.
TONGUE IF YOU'VE STILL GOT IT.
GOT THE TONGUE.
BEEF TONGUE STICKY BUN--
YES, OF COURSE, I WANT TO EAT THAT.
ROASTED BEEF TONGUE, PEANUT CURRY,
FRIED BUNS, BASIL, MINT, CILANTRO, CHILIES,
SWEET CHILI FISH SAUCE--
YES. YES.
OR SOMETHING MORE DOWN TO EARTH.
TODAY, WE BASICALLY DECIDED TO PANKO-BREAD SOME HOT DOGS
AND DEEP-FRY 'EM.
AND, OF COURSE, WITH THE LIMITED SPACE,
WE JUST TRY TO FRY EVERYTHING.
WE NEED MORE OF THIS IN NEW YORK.
COME ALL YE HIPSTERS WITH YOUR MUTANT MASH-UP FOOD,
YOUR STRANGE AND WONDROUS TREATS,
TO MY NEIGHBORHOOD, AND SOON.
(bleep) MAKING MONEY.
NEXT TIME I COME TO AUSTIN,
I'M GONNA EAT MY WAY ACROSS TOWN TRAILER TO TRAILER
TILL THEY FIND ME
IN A QUIVERING SEMICONSCIOUS HEAP SOMEWHERE
WITH A MOUTHFUL OF KIMCHEE AND MUSTARD-STAINED FINGERS
WONDERING WHAT THE HELL HAPPENED.
COMING UP...
THERE ARE DEFINITELY SOME THRILLS TO BE HAD
THIS FORMER REPO MAN IS HEATING UP THE STREETS OF DENVER
I THINK MY WIFE SUMMED IT UP
WHEN SHE SAID CREAM CHEESE AND JALAPEÑOS GO TOGETHER
(laughs)
NO RESERVATIONS.
I HAD A CHECKERED, EVEN TORTURED RELATIONSHIP
WITH DENVER BEFORE I CAME THIS LAST TIME,
EVEN THOUGH DENVER'S ALWAYS BEEN GREAT TO ME.
IN 2002, I CAME THROUGH HERE ON BOOK TOUR
AND FOUND MYSELF HUNGRY,
WANDERING AROUND THE CITY CENTER LOOKING FOR FOOD.
WHAT I SAW WAS NOT INSPIRING,
AND I SAID SO REPEATEDLY,
FRANKLY, INSULTING THE CITY
LONG AFTER THE WORLD HAD MOVED ON
AND THINGS HAD CHANGED.
(Anthony) MY FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF THIS PLACE,
JUST WALKING AROUND DOWNTOWN IN 2002
SEEING, YOU KNOW, FRIED ZUCCHINI STICKS AND CHICKEN WINGS
AND, YOU KNOW, THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY,
IT DID NOT LOOK LIKE A PROMISING AND FERTILE ENVIRONMENT
FOR WHAT YOU'RE DOING HERE.
I JUST TRULY BELIEVE THAT IF YOU DO SOMETHING PASSIONATELY
AND YOU CARE AND YOU GET THE BEST INGREDIENTS
AND YOU JUST PUT OUT TRULY HONEST FOOD,
THAT PEOPLE WOULD LIKE IT.
REALLY? THAT'S CRAZY TALK, MAN. (laughs)
♪♪
THIS IS FRANK BONANNO,
FOR SOME TIME THE BIG DOG IN TOWN.
EVERYBODY SAYS SO.
AND HE'S INVITED ME TO HIS RESTAURANT MIZUNA
TO, IN THE NICEST WAY POSSIBLE,
MAKE ME EAT MY WORDS.
SO WE HAVE A LITTLE TASTING OF FOIE GRAS
WITH SOME LOCAL SQUASHES.
THIS IS A LITTLE SQUASH SOUP,
FOIE MOUSSE,
SEARED FOIE GRAS
AND THEN A FOIE GRAS TORCHON
AND THEN A LITTLE BREAD PUDDING.
I GOT TO TELL YOU, THIS IS EXTRAORDINARY.
ALL OF THESE ARE REALLY GREAT.
SO YOU'VE BEEN TO C.I.A.
AT THE FRENCH LAUNDRY
WITH DANIELLE,
YET YOU COME TO DENVER.
WERE PEOPLE CRYING OUT FOR DELICATELY MODERN PREPARATIONS
OF FOIE GRAS HERE?
OUR FIRST YEAR WAS OUR BEST YEAR.
TOOK RIGHT OFF.
IT DIDN'T TAKE MUCH CONVINCING, APPARENTLY.
NOTHING SO GOOD AS BEING WRONG SOMETIMES.
WHERE I ONCE SAW NOTHING BUT CHAIN RESTAURANTS
AND SPORTS BARS,
BONANNO LONG AGO SAW UNTAPPED GREATNESS
AND A MARKET.
SEE, NOW THAT'S BEAUTIFUL. IS IT SQUAB?
YEAH, A LITTLE ROASTED SQUAB, SOME LOCAL BRUSSELS SPROUTS
THAT HAVE JUST BEEN BLANCHED
NICE.
WHAT WAS THE FIRST RULE OF THE RESTAURANT BUSINESS?
RIGHT.
THAT USED TO MEAN THAT THE CUSTOMER WAS RIGHT
ABOUT WHAT YOUR MENU SHOULD BE.
YOU HAD TO HAVE A CAESAR SALAD. YOU HAD TO HAVE A SIRLOIN STEAK.
YOU HAD TO HAVE A CHICKEN.
BY THE END OF ALL THE "HAD TO HAVEs,"
SLOTS FOR WHAT YOU WANTED TO DO.
CHEF BONANNO FOUND A WAY PAST THAT.
I'M REALLY EXCITED ABOUT THAT.
YOU KNOW, BUT WE CAN'T EVER LIST THAT ON THE MENU.
LIKE, IT WOULD KILL THE DISH.
WE JUST CALL IT CASSOULET, AND LET THEM ENJOY IT.
HERE'S A DISH THAT WAS PROBABLY NOT CONSIDERED
A "HAD TO HAVE" MENU ITEM--
A CASSOULET OF BABY LAMB
AND MY FAVORITE, BLOOD SAUSAGE.
NICE.
THERE'S THE LITTLE SWEETBREADS,
THE RACK, A LITTLE ROASTED SHOULDER,
YOUR LEG AND SOME CHANTERELLE MUSHROOMS,
AND THEN THERE'S BLOOD SAUSAGE, LIVERWURST SAUSAGE
AND THEN JUST STRAIGHT-UP LAMB SAUSAGE IN THE CASSOULET.
BEAUTIFUL. OH, THAT'S NICE.
THE MEAT SLIPS RIGHT OFF ON THIS THING, HUH?
ONCE AGAIN, IT'S NICE TO BE WRONG.
WHEN ENLIGHTENMENT TASTES SO GOOD,
IT'S SOMEHOW LESS PAINFUL.
IT SHOULD TELL YOU SOMETHING THAT THE MAYOR OF DENVER
IS A FORMER RESTAURATEUR.
MAYBE THAT HELPS EXPLAIN THE WARM DENVER WELCOME
FOR THIS GUY, BIKER JIM.
I'VE NEVER HAD IT.
SURE.
ALL RIGHT. COOL. IT'S REALLY GOOD.
WHAT'S THIS?
BUFFALO, ELK AND REINDEER BRATS IN THE STREET?
BELIEVE ME, WE GOT NOTHING TO SNEER ABOUT
IN NEW YORK ANYMORE.
(woman) NO.
SHAVED CLEAN THEN, OR AS WE LIKE TO SAY, BRAZILIAN-STYLE.
(woman laughs)
I AM.
HOW YOU DOING? IT SMELLS GOOD.
YEAH, I DO A BIT OF CHUMMING AROUND HERE.
YEAH, THAT'LL WORK.
BIKER JIM'S A FORMER REPO MAN
TURNED VENDOR OF FINE MEATS IN TUBE FORM.
THERE ARE DEFINITELY SOME THRILLS TO BE HAD
I'M SURE.
BUT I WAS READY FOR SOMETHING ELSE.
HE'S HANDED IN HIS SLIM JIM AND HIS PEPPER SPRAY
FOR A CREAM CHEESE GUN.
I DO LIKE SPICY.
OKAY, LET'S DO THE ELK JALAPEÑO CHEDDAR.
LISTEN, I'LL HAVE IT THE WAY YOU MAKE IT.
I THINK MY WIFE SUMMED IT UP
WHEN SHE SAID CREAM CHEESE AND JALAPEÑOS GO TOGETHER
(laughs)
SO THAT'S ELK...
CREAM CHEESE.
A LITTLE CARAMELIZED ONION.
IT'S VERY GOOD, GOOD STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY.
THAT'S NICE. WHAT'S NEXT?
WE'RE GONNA GO TO THE OPPOSITE, CLEANSE YOUR PALATE
OH, YES.
IT'S DICED WITH APRICOTS AND CRANBERRIES.
SO WHERE THE ELK HAS GOT, YOU KNOW, A NICE TOOTH TO IT,
THE BOAR'S FAIRLY TENDER.
THE ELK'S A BIT SPICY.
MMM. IT'S VERY TASTY.
MORE. THIS IS ALASKAN REINDEER SAUSAGE.
I EAT THAT THING FOR BREAKFAST ALL THE TIME.
PRETTY MUCH.
YOU CAN GO TO A LOT OF RESTAURANTS UP THERE,
AND YOU'LL FIND REINDEER IN EGGS, REINDEER IN PANCAKES.
BEST THING I HEARD OF COMING OUT OF ALASKA IN SOME TIME.
THIS IS REALLY HARD, 'CAUSE I'M TASTING A LOT OF SAUSAGE HERE,
I'VE GOT A RATTLESNAKE PHEASANT BRAT HIDING IN HERE
YES.
NOT OFTEN WILL YOU GET JUST STRAIGHT RATTLESNAKE.
YOU KNOW, IT'S NOT THAT RATTLESNAKE ISN'T PLENTIFUL.
(exhales)
I CAN'T STOP.
ISN'T THAT GOOD?
I THINK THIS IS GONNA BE IT FOR ME.
I THINK I HIT THE WALL A COUPLE OF EXITS BACK.
I GOT TO TELL YA, THOUGH, THE REINDEER, THE BOAR
AND THE ELK
BLOW ME AWAY.
I DON'T HAVE A TON OF SKILLS.
I SAY FOR A CHEF, I'M A REALLY GOOD CAR THIEF,
SO BRINGING KIND OF A QUALITY BRATWURST TO THE STREET,
YOU KNOW, REALLY DOES FEEL GOOD.
REACHING OUT HERE AND LOOKING AROUND,
IT WAS THAT YOUR NAME CAME UP AGAIN AND AGAIN AND AGAIN.
THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR GOOD WORK
AND MAKING DENVER A WONDERFUL PLACE FOR ME.
I'LL BE SEEING YOU AGAIN.
NEXT UP, MILWAUKEE'S BEST KEEPS IT LOCAL.
WELL, ALMOST.
THIS IS HOW WE MAKE FOAM IN WISCONSIN.
THAT IS MOLECULAR GASTRONOMY, WISCONSIN-STYLE.
WANT MORE? OR AS WE SAY ON THIS SHOW, "HUNGRY FOR MORE"?
TRACK DOWN MY EXACT ITINERARY, WHERE I WENT,
WHERE I ATE, WHAT I DID THERE AND HOW YOU CAN DO IT
AT travelchannel.com.
NO RESERVATIONS.
MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN,
THE CITY BY LAKE MICHIGAN.
IMAGINE ITS CHEESES BEATING FRANCE
AT INTERNATIONAL COMPETITIONS,
ITS BREWERIES AS RESPECTED AS ANY IN THE WORLD,
A REAL FOOD DESTINATION.
COULDN'T HAPPEN? I DON'T KNOW.
THERE HAVE ALWAYS BEEN COOKS HERE AND GOOD ONES.
TEN YEARS AGO, I REMEMBER THERE WERE A LOT OF 'EM
STOKED ON RAISING THE BAR,
SO ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE.
♪♪
FOR A LONG TIME NOW,
THE BARTOLOTTA FAMILY, JOE AND PAUL,
HAVE BEEN THE DOMINATE NAME IN RESTAURANTS OUT HERE.
SO IT'S NOT LIKE THEY DIDN'T KNOW HOW TO EAT
OR TO COOK IN MILWAUKEE.
BACCHUS OPENED IN 2004,
AND CHEF ADAM SIEGEL IS MAKING A SERIOUS EFFORT
TO SOURCE AS MUCH AS HE CAN FROM LOCAL PRODUCERS,
AS WELL AS USE LOCAL CULINARY TRADITION AS INSPIRATION.
(Joe) THIS IS A WINE-DRIVEN RESTAURANT.
BACCHUS, OF COURSE, THE GOD OF *** AND MERRIMENT.
BACCHUS OWNER JOE BARTOLOTTA.
WE DON'T REALLY TALK ABOUT THE *** PART TOO MUCH,
I SHOULD HAVE BROUGHT THE PURELL.
THIS IS WISCONSIN BEER CHEESE SOUP.
SUPER CLASSIC, CHEDDAR AND BEER.
THE CHEDDAR IS WIDMER WISCONSIN CHEDDAR
FROM LARRY'S MARKET,
WHERE ADAM SOURCES ALL HIS CHEESE NEEDS.
THE BEER, SPRECHER BREWERY'S SPECIAL AMBER BREW,
A LOT BETTER THAN THE USUAL SUSPECTS
WHO MAY HAVE MADE MILWAUKEE FAMOUS
BUT DIDN'T EVER MAKE BEER LIKE THIS.
TOPPING IT OFF, MAPLE-GLAZED PORK BELLY.
THIS IS HOW WE MAKE FOAM IN WISCONSIN.
NICE.
THAT IS MOLECULAR GASTRONOMY, WISCONSIN-STYLE.
ENJOY, GUYS.
IT'S A VERY SOPHISTICATED DISH,
BUT HIT ANYBODY IN THE HEAD OUT IN THE STREET,
DRAG 'EM IN HERE, MAKE THEM EAT THAT,
AND THEY'RE GONNA SAY THAT IT'S DAMN GOOD.
(laughs)
SO, YOU KNOW, EVERYTHING IN WISCONSIN
HAS TO BE GEARED TOWARDS KEEPING YOU WARM.
NEXT UP, CRISPY EGG MOLLET
WITH MAHARAJA CURRY POTATO SALAD,
CRèME FRAîCHE AND CAVIAR.
AS IF THE CAVIAR WEREN'T INDULGENT ENOUGH,
THE MAHARAJA CURRY IS A SPECIAL HAND-BLENDED MIX
WITH SAFFRON FROM THE SPICE HOUSE,
ANOTHER OF ADAM'S LOCAL SOURCES.
HOW WE DOING SO FAR, GUYS?
REALLY, REALLY GOOD.
...READING MY E-MAIL TO MYSELF,
NEED MORE OOZING EGGS,
OOZING EGGS WITH MORE EGGS ON TOP.
FOIE GRAS, SO LAST WEEK, RIGHT?
NO, NOT THIS WEEK.
A LITTLE FOIE GRAS FRENCH TOAST.
I FIGURE, YOU KNOW, MOST PEOPLE WANT BRIOCHE WITH IT,
SO WHY NOT MAKE FRENCH TOAST.
IT'LL SOAK IN A LOT OF BROWN BUTTER AND VANILLA IN THERE.
SMELL-A-VISION.
GOES GREAT WITH A DOOR COUNTY CHERRY
THAT WE STEEP IN SOME SAUTERNE AND PORT WINE.
THIS IS GREAT.
FOIE GRAS IS ONE OF MY FAVORITE INGREDIENTS TO WORK WITH.
IT'S ANCIENT, YOU KNOW,
ANCIENT EGYPT, 2,500 YEARS AGO.
AND TAKE ANOTHER LITTLE PIECE OF MY HEART NOW, BABY--
BONE MARROW.
YOU KNOW, FOR ME, THIS IS CUTTING-EDGE--
STRAUSS FREE-RAISED SWEETBREADS BRAISED IN RED WINE.
AND THEN FROM THE BRAISING LIQUID,
I THEN BRAISE THE MARROW BONES IN THERE.
SOURCED AGAIN PERSONALLY
FROM STRAUSS VEAL,
MILWAUKEE'S PREEMINENT SOURCE
FOR HAPPILY RAISED HIGH-QUALITY VEAL,
HAPPY ANIMALS SO OFTEN BEING TASTIER ANIMALS.
(gasps)
OH, MAN.
OVERKILL BEING USUALLY A GOOD THING--
FRESH BLACK TRUFFLES.
OH, I CAN'T EAT THAT.
YEAH, YEAH. I'LL BE WITH YOU IN A MINUTE.
I GOT TO TAKE PICTURES SO BAD.
WE'RE GONNA SPEND SOME QUALITY TIME TOGETHER LATER
(laughs)
I'LL BE EXAMINING THIS PHOTO. WHAT WAS I SAYING?
WHO WOULDN'T LOVE THIS?
MAYBE A HARDENED COMMUNIST WOULD NOT LOVE THIS.
IF YOU WERE LOOKING LIKE CUBAN BASEBALL PLAYERS,
THIS WOULD BE LIKE THE PERFECT FIX.
PACK THOSE IN A BANDOLIER.
(laughs)
AND, OF COURSE, A TRIP TO WISCONSIN
WOULD BE INCOMPLETE WITHOUT SOME CHEESE.
THERE'S GOUDA, WHICH IS THIS ONE.
THAT'S REALLY GOOD.
IT'S LIKE ALMOST LIKE A SEA SALT CARAMEL
SO DO YOU HAVE, LIKE, WEIRD HIPPIES
LIVING OUT IN THE BOONIES MAKING,
YES.
SO THEY, LIKE, USED TO BE, YOU KNOW, BANKERS OR COKE DEALERS,
NOW THEY'RE--
THAT'S GOOD.
HERE, THESE TWO CHEDDARS ARE UNBELIEVABLE.
THIS IS 12-YEAR-OLD CHEDDAR CHEESE.
THIS IS AWESOME.
IF YOU GET SOME OF THIS FUNKY STUFF ON THERE,
THAT'S THE GOOD STUFF.
FOR ME THIS IS THE PERFECT DESSERT.
COMING UP, MINNEAPOLIS, WHERE SIZE USED TO MATTER.
NO MORE.
YEAH.
THEY HATE WHAT I'M DOING.
CHANGE. IT'S CHANGE.
NO RESERVATIONS.
IT WAS HERE IN MINNEAPOLIS,
THE CITY OF LAKES,
THAT I HAD WHAT WAS FAR AND AWAY
THE BEST AND MOST INSPIRED AND INSPIRING MEAL
OF MY TRIP ACROSS AMERICA.
♪♪
(man) EVERY DISH THAT WE CREATE,
IT HAS TO BE DONE WELL.
THERE ARE A LOT OF STEPS.
WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO
IS WE'RE GONNA BONE-OUT THE THIGH OF THE GUINEA HEN,
PULLING ALL THE LIVER OUT, MAKING THE FARCE FOR IT,
FARCE OF THE GUINEA HEN LIVER,
CHICKPEAS AND THYME.
HIT IT WITH A LITTLE MEAT GLUE.
PUT THAT IN THE MIDDLE AND STUFF IT.
BAG THEM.
WE SEND IT TO VACUUM.
IT'LL GO UP TO 99.9.
WE PRESS THEM OVERNIGHT.
PULL THEM OUT THE NEXT DAY.
WE CIRCULATE THEM.
COOK IT AT 65 DEGREES CELSIUS
FOR ABOUT 45 MINUTES.
COOL THEM DOWN AND PRESS THEM OVERNIGHT AGAIN.
WE SQUARE THEM OFF AND PORTION THEM,
AND THEN WE COOK THEM.
THE AMOUNT OF TIME AND ENERGY THAT IT TAKES
TO PRODUCE JUST THE ONE PIECE...
YOU GOT CLEANING THE ARTICHOKES,
ASPARAGUS PEELING AND BLANCHING,
CLEANING THE RAMPS,
MAKING THE STOCK FOR IT.
IT'S A LITTLE RAGOUT OF THE ARTICHOKES, RAMPS,
AND I THINK A DISH LIKE THIS, YOU KNOW,
THIS ISN'T JUST A GUINEA HEN THIGH
THAT'S BAKED IN THE OVEN, YOU KNOW.
A LOT OF LOVE.
♪♪
A WELCOMING CORNER JOINT WITHOUT PRETENTION--
PICCOLO, THE NEWLY OPENED BRAINCHILD
OF ESTABLISHED MINNEAPOLIS CHEF DOUG FLICKER.
YEAH.
THEY HATE WHAT I'M DOING.
CHANGE. IT'S CHANGE.
THERE'S ALWAYS GONNA BE A CERTAIN PERCENTAGE
THAT DON'T GET IT OR DON'T WANT IT.
WHAT'S THE COMPLAINT?
PORTION SIZE.
YOU KNOW, I READ A LITTLE REVIEW THE OTHER NIGHT THAT SAID
"WHY CAN'T THEY JUST PUT TWICE AS MUCH FOOD ON THE PLATE?"
WELL, I MEAN, ISN'T THE IDEA
EXACTLY.
IN THE TRADITIONAL FORMAT, YOU KNOW, YOU COME IN,
YOU HAVE YOUR APPETIZER, YOUR ENTRéE, AND THEN YOU'RE OUT.
I'M ALLOWING YOU TO HAVE
TWO OR THREE TIMES THE AMOUNT OF EXPOSURE TO THINGS.
NOT AT ALL.
I MEAN, IF YOU LIKE THAT DISH SO MUCH,
YEAH, EXACTLY.
OOH, THAT'S PRETTY.
SO WHAT WE HAVE HERE IS PARMESAN AGNOLOTTI
WITH SCRAMBLED DUCK EGGS AND PICKLED PIG'S FEET.
I KNOW.
THAT'S OUTRAGEOUS.
AND THE KIND OF DISH THAT, YOU KNOW,
CERTAIN PEOPLE RECOIL A LITTLE BIT...
BEFORE THEY TRY IT.
OH, YEAH. WELL, JUST IT'S THE IDEA OF THE PIG'S FEET.
THEY DON'T QUITE COMPREHEND IT.
THEY DON'T KNOW WHAT THEY'RE SUPPOSED TO FEEL ABOUT IT,
YOU WANT PEOPLE TO FEEL THAT WAY?
SOMETIMES, YEAH. THERE'S NOTHING WRONG WITH BEING UNCOMFORTABLE.
PICKLED PIG'S FEET, YOU KNOW, THE INNARDS,
ALL THOSE THINGS THAT ARE KIND OF RISK AND REWARD.
IT'S LIKE GOING ON A ROLLER COASTER RIDE.
YOU KNOW, YOU'RE REALLY UNCOMFORTABLE
WHEN YOU HIT THAT PEAK,
BUT ONCE YOU GO DOWN AND YOU GET THAT EXHILARATION,
YOU KNOW, IT'S NOT SO BAD ANYMORE.
(screaming)
THIS IS RABBIT SUMMER SAUSAGE...
WITH SMOKED CELERY, RAMPS AND MUSTARD.
OH, WHAT'S THIS?
NICE.
WITH LACIANATO KALE AND FRIED POLENTA.
A LITTLE BIT OF BREADCRUMB AND TOASTED PINE NUTS.
SO WHAT WE HAVE HERE
IS WHAT WE CALL LAMB BELLY.
MM-HMM.
THAT'S MARINATED AND GLUED TOGETHER,
AND SOUS-VIDE AND CUT INTO BRICKS.
LAMB LIVER,
AND THAT'S WITH A LITTLE BIT OF HOMEMADE PINECONE SYRUP,
NICE.
YEAH.
RIGHT.
MMM.
YEAH, THAT'S TASTY.
YOU DON'T WANT TO GIVE SOMEBODY
A BIGGER PORTION THAN THAT OF THIS.
IT'S SO RICH. THAT'S A BEAUTIFUL DISH.
I THINK A LOT OF PEOPLE WHO HAVE OPENED RESTAURANTS HERE
IN THE LAST COUPLE YEARS
HAVE UNDERESTIMATED THE DINING PUBLIC.
NEVER THOUGHT OF, YOU KNOW, MAYBE GOING OFF AND...
CERTAINLY CROSSED MY MIND,
BUT THIS IS HOME.
I KNOW THE CITY.
I'M PART OF THE CITY,
YOU KNOW, AND THEREFORE, I THINK, YOU KNOW,
WHEN I CREATE FOOD,
IT IS A REPRESENTATION OF THE CITY AND OF THE PEOPLE.
SO WHAT WE HAVE HERE IS A HOMEMADE RICOTTA PANNA COTTA
OH, NICE.
SO IT'S FIRST-OF-THE-YEAR RHUBARB.
WE MAKE THE RICOTTA.
AND THEN WE SUBSTITUTE THE WHEY FOR THE MILK.
OH, THAT'S REALLY NICE.
I MEAN, WHAT DO YOU WANT TO BE IN TEN YEARS?
MM-HMM.
AND--AND CREATE.
I WANT TO COME IN. I WANT TO COOK MY FOOD.
I WANT TO ENJOY THE TIME THAT I SPEND WITH THE PEOPLE HERE,
AND I WANT TO GO HOME AND SEE MY WIFE.
NO.
I LIKE MY LITTLE CORNER OF THE WORLD.
IT'S VERY QUIET, YOU KNOW.
IT'S JUST NICE.
♪♪
(cheers and applause)
THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR COMING.
SO AMERICA'S HEARTLAND,
HERE'S WHERE I TRY TO SUM UP THE LAST HOUR OF TELEVISION,
ONE THAT WASN'T NEARLY ENOUGH TO COVER SUCH A VAST LANDSCAPE
AND YET...
I GUESS WHAT THIS SHOW IS REALLY ABOUT
IS CUSTOMERS ARE ALL A HELL OF A LOT SMARTER
AND MORE SOPHISTICATED
THAN WE GIVE THEM CREDIT FOR.
IT'S A NEW WORLD WE LIVE IN NOW,
AND I THINK IT'S IMPORTANT TO RECOGNIZE
THAT IT'S HAPPENING,
WHATEVER IT IS THAT'S HAPPENING.
MAYBE FOR THE FIRST TIME IN HISTORY IN THIS COUNTRY,
CHEFS ARE ACTUALLY BEING APPRECIATED
FOR THEIR BEST EFFORTS,
RATHER THAN PUNISHED FOR THEM.
AND THAT'S BEEN A WONDERFUL SHIFT.
Closed Captions provided by Scripps Networks, LLC.