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Bourdain: SO, LET'S BEGIN AT THE END.
WHEN I CAME TO WASHINGTON, D.C.,
THE BEGINNING OF SHOOTING THIS SHOW --
[ SIREN WAILS ]
WHEN I CAME TO WASHINGTON, D.C., TO MAKE THIS SHOW
ABOUT A WEEK AGO --
[ HELICOPTER BLADES WHIRRING ]
[ CHUCKLES ]
WHAT IS A WASHINGTONIAN?
[ MAN LAUGHS ]
[ INDISTINCT CONVERSATIONS ]
WHEN I CAME TO WASHINGTON, D.C., ABOUT A WEEK AGO
TO MAKE THIS SHOW --
[ PLANE ENGINES ROAR ]
[ SIREN WAILS ]
LET'S BEGIN AT THE -- AM I ABOUT TO GET BUSTED?
785, CODE 6. 105 NORTH AVENUE, 52.
HELLO.
I'M ANTHONY BOURDAIN.
♪ THAT'S RIGHT ♪
I WRITE.
I TRAVEL.
I EAT.
AND I'M HUNGRY FOR MORE.
♪ OOH ♪
♪ YOU GOT TO ♪
♪ GET LOST ♪
-- Captions by VITAC -- www.vitac.com
CAPTIONS PAID FOR BY THE TRAVEL CHANNEL, L.L.C.
[ INDISTINCT RADIO CHATTER ]
SO, HOW LONG DO YOU THINK WE HAVE BEFORE WE GET ARRESTED?
DO WE HAVE A PERMIT FOR THIS?
ARE WE CHECKED IN WITH THE DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY?
WHAT COLOR CODE IS IT RIGHT NOW?
WHAT DO YOU THINK *** CHENEY EATS FOR LUNCH?
OTHER THAN, YOU KNOW, MAYBE SMALL CHILDREN?
SO, LET'S BEGIN AT THE END.
[ CHILDREN SHOUTING ]
THAT'S EMERIL!
I'M KIND OF WORKING HERE. WE'RE ACTUALLY SHOOTING.
I'M GONNA BE ON TV.
OOH, CAN I MAKE A SHOUT-OUT TO MY HOMEYS IN NEW YORK CITY?
Bourdain: WASHINGTON, D.C. --
AMERICA'S VISIBLE, INVISIBLE CITY.
ACTUALLY, TWO CITIES -- ONE RICH, ONE POOR.
ONE WITH POWER, ANOTHER RELATIVELY POWERLESS.
IT'S WHITE, IT'S BLACK. IT'S THERE BUT IT'S NOT.
THE CITY WE THINK WE KNOW, THE ONE WE SEE ON TV,
IS MORE WAY STATION THAN PERMANENT RESIDENCE.
PEOPLE COME IN, FEED AT THE TROUGH FOR FOUR YEARS OR EIGHT,
AND RETURN TO WHERE THEY CAME FROM.
OOH, A DELIVERY OF PUNDITS.
THAT, OF COURSE, IS NOT THE D.C. THAT INTERESTS ME.
THERE'S CLEARLY ANOTHER D.C. SOMEWHERE.
SURE, THERE ARE BEAUTIFUL MONUMENTS
STANDING FOR BEAUTIFUL IDEAS.
BUT THOSE SEEM, THESE DAYS,
MORE LIKE REFLECTIONS THAN THE THINGS THEMSELVES.
I'M GUESSING LINCOLN, JEFFERSON --
THEY'D SCARCELY RECOGNIZE THE COUNTRY THEY HELPED CREATE,
BUT THAT'S OKAY, I GUESS,
'CAUSE D.C. IS, AT HEART, A CITY LIKE ANY OTHER --
FILLED WITH PEOPLE GOOD AND BAD, FROM ALL WALKS OF LIFE,
JUST TRYING TO DO THE BEST THEY CAN.
WHAT IS A WASHINGTONIAN?
IT'S FILLED WITH PEOPLE FROM SOMEPLACE ELSE,
AND PEOPLE WHO HAVE BEEN HERE SINCE NEARLY THE BEGINNING.
IT'S TWO CITIES, MAYBE JUST NOW STARTING TO COME TOGETHER.
Shallal: YOU KNOW, WASHINGTON -- IT'S A VERY TENSE CITY.
I THINK THERE'S A LOT OF RACIAL TENSION --
UNDERLYING RACIAL TENSION --
AND OFTENTIMES, THAT GETS BRUSHED OVER AND IGNORED.
I WANTED TO CONFRONT IT HEAD ON.
WASHINGTON'S U STREET CORRIDOR, THE DIVIDE ITSELF --
A PLACE THAT ONCE PERSONIFIED D.C.'s SPLIT PERSONALITY.
HISTORICALLY AN ALL-BLACK NEIGHBORHOOD, TODAY --
BIG SURPRISE -- UNDERGOING THE INEVITABLE GENTRIFICATION.
INTO THAT PICTURE, ADD BUSBOYS AND POETS....
...THE CAFé NAMED FOR ONETIME BUSBOY/POET LANGSTON HUGHES.
WASHINGTON DOESN'T HAVE ITS OWN SORT OF IDENTITY.
PROPRIETOR ANDY SHALLAL.
IT'S A FEDERAL CITY -- IT'S NOT.
IT'S A SEGREGATED CITY -- IT'S NOT.
THEY WORK TOGETHER, BUT THEY DON'T PLAY TOGETHER.
THIS WAS A WAY FOR ME TO SAY, "LET'S BRING PEOPLE TOGETHER."
IT WAS DESIGNED AS A BOOKSTORE, CAFé,
VENUE FOR READINGS AND SPOKEN WORD,
AND AS A PLACE FOR THE FREE AND FRANK EXCHANGE OF VIEWS
BETWEEN PEOPLE WHO MAY OR MAY NOT HAVE OTHERWISE HUNG OUT
WITH EACH OTHER.
THERE'S NO BETTER PLACE
TO MEET CELEBRATED AUTHOR OF ACCLAIMED D.C.-BASED NOVELS
AND WRITER FOR "THE WIRE," GEORGE PELECANOS.
[ HELICOPTER BLADES WHIRRING, RADIO FREQUENCY HUMS ]
BEST DRAMATIC SERIES EVER ON TELEVISION, BY THE WAY.
[ SIREN WAILS ]
Bourdain: YOU KNOW, IT CERTAINLY --
NOT JUST IN CRIME WRITING, BUT IN ANY KIND OF WRITING,
CERTAIN WRITERS END UP OWNING TERRAIN.
ARGUABLY, IAN RANKIN OWNS EDINBURGH,
JAMES ELLROY OWNED L.A. OF A CERTAIN ERA.
YOU, WITHOUT QUESTION, OWN WASHINGTON, D.C.,
AND I GUESS THE QUESTION IS, WHY HERE?
Pelecanos: FIRST OF ALL, I'VE NEVER LIVED ANYWHERE ELSE,
SO I DON'T KNOW ANYTHING ELSE.
AND WHEN I STARTED, THERE WAS NOBODY WRITING
ABOUT THE OTHER CITY -- NOT THE FEDERAL CITY.
THE WORLD THAT I GREW UP IN, WHICH WAS --
MY FATHER WAS A GREEK IMMIGRANT, AND I GREW UP IN A DINER HERE.
BUT ALSO, THE INTERSECTION BETWEEN BLACK AND WHITE.
THERE'S SOMETHING IN MY PSYCHE
THAT IS DRIVING ME ALWAYS BACK TO THAT.
WHEN I WAS A KID AND I WOULD TAKE THE BUS DOWNTOWN
TO GO TO MY DAD'S DINER, AND IT WAS THAT YEAR --
IT WAS THE SUMMER OF THE RIOTS IS WHEN I STARTED.
I WAS 11 YEARS OLD.
THERE WAS THAT LUNCH COUNTER --
IT WAS MY DAD AND I AND THEN ALL-BLACK EMPLOYEES.
AND ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE DINER
WAS PRETTY MUCH WHITE PROFESSIONALS,
AND THAT COUNTER WAS MORE THAN A PIECE OF FORMICA,
YOU KNOW WHAT I'M SAYING? IT WAS A DIVIDE.
AND ALL MY LIFE I'VE BEEN INTERESTED IN THAT.
[ INDISTINCT SHOUTING ]
ON APRIL 4th, 1968, AS NEWS SPREAD
OF DR. MARTIN LUTHER KING'S ASSASSINATION IN MEMPHIS,
HEARTBROKEN AND ANGRY CROWDS
GATHERED IN GHETTOS ACROSS AMERICA.
GEORGE WAS 11.
IT'S A DAY HE REMEMBERS VIVIDLY AND HAS WRITTEN ABOUT.
STOKLEY CARMICHAEL AND A BUNCH OF PEOPLE THAT WERE WITH HIM
CAME DOWN THIS WAY ON U STREET,
AND THEY STARTED GOING INTO BUSINESSES
AND TELLING PEOPLE THAT IT WAS TIME TO CLOSE UP
OUT OF RESPECT FOR DR. KING.
[ WHISTLE BLOWING, DOG BARKING ]
AND THEN, YOU KNOW, THINGS STARTED HAPPENING.
[ GLASS SHATTERS ]
ONE WINDOW GOT BROKEN, ANOTHER,
AND THEN JUST THINGS GOT OUT OF CONTROL.
[ GLASS SHATTERS ]
AND BY THE TIME IT WAS DONE, 14th STREET, 7th STREET,
AND 8th STREET WERE COMPLETELY BURNED DOWN.
SO BEN'S CHILI BOWL, RIGHT NEXT DOOR,
MADE IT RIGHT THROUGH THE RIOT?
THAT'S RIGHT.
WITH THE SANCTION OF THE GOVERNMENT AND THE POLICE,
IT BECAME A PLACE WHERE ANYBODY COULD COME INSIDE,
GET OUT OF THE MADNESS, AND SIT DOWN AND REST AND TALK.
♪ NA NA NA NA NA NA NA... ♪
BEN'S CHILI BOWL
HAS BEEN ON JUST ABOUT EVERY FOOD OR TRAVEL SHOW
TO EVER VISIT WASHINGTON,
AND D.C. FOODIES LIKE TO SNARK ABOUT WHETHER OR NOT
THEIR HALF-SMOKE IS, INDEED, THE BEST.
♪ ...WHO-O-O--A... ♪
BUT BEN'S IS ALSO A RATHER REMARKABLE HUMAN STORY,
IN ADDITION TO SERVING A KING-HELL MEAL.
BEN AND VIRGINIA ALI
MET AT A BANK WHERE VIRGINIA WAS A TELLER.
IN 1958, NEWLY MARRIED, THEY STARTED A BUSINESS TOGETHER
IN WHAT WAS ONCE D.C.'s FIRST SILENT-MOVIE HOUSE.
BY APRIL OF 1968, AS MUCH OF THE CITY BURNED,
IT WAS ALREADY A BELOVED INSTITUTION.
IT BECAME AN ISLAND OF CALM
AT THE VERY CENTER OF THE TERRIBLE STORM.
TODAY, IT'S RUN BY THE ALIS' SONS, KAMAL AND NIZAM.
Pelecanos: IT WOULDN'T BE [BLEEP]
UNLESS THE CHILI DOGS WERE THE GREATEST IN THE WORLD.
I'M TELLING YOU, THEY ARE.
YES, I DO.
LOOK, I LOVE GOING TO A NICE RESTAURANT AND ALL THAT STUFF,
BUT IF YOU SAY TO ME, "YOU'RE GONNA HAVE ONE THING TODAY.
"WHERE DO YOU WANT TO GO? IT DOESN'T MATTER WHAT IT COSTS."
IT WOULD BE A HALF-SMOKE HERE WITH CHILI, MUSTARD, AND ONION.
RIGHT. I NEED ONE. I NEED ONE. I NEED ONE NOW.
I'M CURIOUS.
THE TERM "HALF-SMOKE" --
OUTSIDE OF D.C., I MEAN, I'VE NEVER HEARD IT BEFORE.
A BREAKFAST SAUSAGE.
BUT THAT'S OUR NUMBER-ONE THING, AND THAT'S WHAT EVERYONE ORDERS,
AND PEOPLE LOVE IT.
OKAY, I GET IT. THAT'S NOT A HOT DOG.
THAT'S ANOTHER CREATURE ENTIRELY. SO GOOD.
NOW, OPTIMUM CONDITIONS, I'M TOLD, FOR COMING HERE
IS WHEN YOU'RE REALLY DRUNK, LIKE, LATE AT NIGHT.
YOU DROP BY HERE ON U STREET AT NIGHT --
THERE'S A LINE GOING OUT THE DOOR.
THAT HALF-SMOKE
IS PRETTY CLOSE TO THE SAME THING WE SOLD 50 YEARS AGO.
WE TRY TO KEEP IT THE SAME AND AS CONSISTENT AS POSSIBLE.
LOOKS PRETTY MUCH THE SAME AS IT ALWAYS DID?
THE SAME. THIS IS THE SAME COUNTER RIGHT HERE.
IT'S THE SAME BOOTHS, AND THE STOOL YOU'RE SITTING ON
IS THE SAME STOOL FROM 50 YEARS AGO.
THERE'S VIRGINIA RIGHT THERE.
HOW ARE YOU?
I'M SO HAPPY TO BE HERE. I'M REALLY, REALLY ENJOYING --
ACTUALLY, SINCE YOU GUYS ARE ALL HERE AND SINCE MOM'S HERE,
I JUST GOT IT SENT TO ME TODAY, AND MOM HASN'T SEEN IT YET --
I'VE KIND OF KEPT HER IN THE DARK ABOUT EVERYTHING,
BUT FOR THE ANNIVERSARY...
...THIS IS THE FIRST AUTHOR'S COPY.
AND THIS IS THE FIRST TIME THE MAGNIFICENT VIRGINIA ALI
HAS LAID EYES ON THE PICTORIAL HISTORY OF HER LIFE.
HAPPY ANNIVERSARY, MOTHER.
OH, THAT'S FANTASTIC!
YOU GUYS DID IT. YOU GUYS STARTED THIS PLACE.
AND YOU WERE 25 WHEN YOU STARTED IT.
THAT'S HARD.
I WAS IN THE RESTAURANT BUSINESS FOR 28 YEARS.
I'VE NEVER ENCOUNTERED ANY PLACE THAT IS LOVED BY AS MANY PEOPLE
AS WIDELY AND AS LOCALLY AS THIS PLACE.
IMMORTAL NOW.
♪ ...NA NA NA NA NA NA NA ♪
♪ NA NA NA NA NA... ♪
[ CAMERA SHUTTER CLICKS ]
YES.
EVEN NOW, THE FBI WILL SAY
THERE ARE AS MANY SPIES IN WASHINGTON AS THERE WERE DURING THE COLD WAR.
...THINGS IN WASHINGTON ARE NOT ALWAYS WHAT THEY SEEM.
JULIA CHILD? SHE WAS ONE OF YOURS? SIGN ME UP!
THAT'S WHAT I THOUGHT WE WERE IN THE PROCESS OF DOING.
THERE'S A THIRD SIDE TO D.C. -- AN EVEN MORE INVISIBLE ONE,
A SECRET ONE WITH ITS OWN POPULATION OF WORKER BEES,
ALL OF THEM TRAINED TO STAY EXACTLY LIKE THAT --
UNNOTICED, INVISIBLE IN PLAIN SIGHT.
WITH SCORES AND SCORES OF EMBASSIES,
THE HEADQUARTERS OF EVERY MAJOR INTELLIGENCE SERVICE,
THINK TANKS, LOBBYISTS, AND POWER BROKERS
ALL LOCATED IN ONE AREA, D.C. IS A HOTHOUSE FOR SPIES --
AT ANY GIVEN MOMENT, CRAWLING WITH THEM.
SPIES AND THE PEOPLE WHO CATCH THEM ARE EVERYWHERE.
IT'S EASILY THE MOST HEAVILY SURVIELLED
AND CLOSELY-SCRUTINIZED CITY IN AMERICA.
Earnest: IT IS WASHINGTON.
THIS IS WHERE, LIKE IT OR NOT, THE DECISIONS GET MADE,
THE POLICY IS PROCESSED, AND SO FORTH,
SO THIS IS WHY YOU HAVE LOBBYISTS HERE,
WHY YOU HAVE SPIES HERE, WHY YOU HAVE DIPLOMATS HERE.
PETER EARNEST IS OR WAS A SPY,
A LONG-TIME-SERVING MEMBER, RETIRED NOW, HE SAYS,
OF THE CLANDESTINE SERVICES.
YOU WERE A CIA OFFICER?
I WAS AN OFFICER.
I WAS A CASE OFFICER -- AN OPERATIONS OFFICER.
IN EASTERN EUROPE?
10 YEARS OF THAT, I WORKED ON SOVIET/EAST-EUROPEAN OPERATIONS.
BEFORE THAT, I WAS IN THE MIDDLE EAST AND EUROPE.
HOW MANY KGB PEOPLE DID YOU HAVE RUNNING AROUND WASHINGTON?
A LOT, A LOT.
EVEN NOW -- YES.
EVEN NOW, THE FBI WILL SAY
THAT THERE ARE AS MANY SPIES IN WASHINGTON
AS THERE WERE DURING THE COLD WAR.
WHAT ARE THEY LOOKING FOR NOW, THOUGH?
NO.
THEY'VE ALWAYS BEEN VERY GOOD AT STEALING TECHNOLOGY.
DEFENSE-RELATED TECHNOLOGY.
THESE DAYS, PETER'S OPERATIONAL DIRECTIVE
IS TO REVEAL AS MANY SECRETS AS POSSIBLE --
OLD SECRETS, ANYWAY --
AS EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR OF THE INTERNATIONAL SPY MUSEUM.
WE DON'T HAVE THE AUDIO.
I THINK IT'S TURNED OFF NOW 'CAUSE THE MUSEUM IS CLOSED.
SAYS "WATCH YOUR STEP. REMEMBER, WE'LL BE WATCHING YOU."
Bourdain: THE CIGARETTE-CASE GUN. THAT'S A LIPSTICK PISTOL.
OKAY, HERE'S THE BULGARIAN UMBRELLA.
SO, YOU JUST PRESS THIS UP AGAINST SOMEBODY'S LEG
AND IT FIRES A LITTLE RICE IN, OR A RADIOACTIVE PELLET,
INTO YOUR LEG.
OOH, GLOVE PISTOL. I WANT ONE OF THOSE.
OH, YEAH, THE STACHINSKY THING -- THAT'S THE OLD
"ROLLED-UP NEWSPAPER, PRUSSIC ACID IN THE FACE" GAG.
THE LIGHTER GUN.
FLASHLIGHT GUN.
TOBACCO-PIPE PISTOL.
OOH, GAS ASSASSINATION RIFLE WITH FLéCHETTE.
OOH, I DON'T WANT THAT STICKING IN ME.
EXPLOSIVE CANTEEN. THAT'S NOT FUNNY.
*** TOOL KIT.
REALLY? OOH, GEEZ!
IT'S NOT EXACTLY SMOOTH PASSAGE, EITHER.
THEY GOT A COUPLE OF NUBBINS ON THE OUTSIDE THERE. GEESH.
COOL -- AN ENIGMA MACHINE.
WOW, THIS WAS IT?
THIS WAS THE MOST CLOSELY HELD SECRET OF WORLD WAR II.
WOW.
WAIT A MINUTE!
JULIA CHILD? SHE WAS ONE OF YOURS?
THIS IS CELEBRITY SPIES.
JULIA CHILD WORKED FOR O.S.S. DURING WORLD WAR II.
THE O.S.S. WAS THE PRECURSOR TO THE CIA,
AND I'D LOVE TO IMAGINE JULIA PARACHUTING BEHIND ENEMY LIES
WITH A KNIFE BETWEEN HER TEETH, JERKING THAT COLD, STEEL BLADE
ACROSS SOME SCHNITZEL-EATING SENTRY'S THROAT.
BUT, IN FACT, SHE WAS POSTED TO CEYLON, NOW SRI LANKA,
AND WORKED ON A PROJECT TO DEVELOP UP A REPELLANT
TO KEEP SHARKS FROM SETTING OFF ALLIED MINES.
[ WOMAN SINGING IN FRENCH ]
JULIA CHILD? JULIA CHILD. SO COOL.
SHE LOOKS GOOD.
YEAH, SHE LOOKS GREAT. SHE LOOKS LIKE SHE WAS FUN.
[ WOMAN LAUGHS ]
CHADWICKS, ANOTHER NEIGHBORHOOD JOINT IN GEORGETOWN --
THE KIND OF PLACE THAT SERVES
A SOLID CHEESEBURGER AND GOOD, COLD BEER.
IT'S SPECIAL FOR, WELL, NOT BEING ALL THAT SPECIAL,
WHICH IS EXACTLY WHY THE COMMIES USED IT TO MEET
PERHAPS THE MOST DESTRUCTIVE DOUBLE AGENT IN CIA HISTORY.
RICK AMES, WHO WAS A CIA OFFICER,
WHO DECIDED TO VOLUNTEER HIS SERVICES
TO THE SOVIETS COVERTLY -- THAT IS, COMMITTING TREASON.
SO ON THE 13th OF JUNE, 1985,
AMES HAD LUNCH WITH CHUVAKHIN HERE IN CHADWICKS.
RICK AMES BROUGHT OUT OF THE AGENCY
TWO SHOPPING BAGS FILLED WITH CLASSIFIED CIA DOCUMENTS.
IT WAS DEVASTATING.
THAT BECAME KNOWN IN THE LITERATURE AS THE BIG DUMP.
THE SITE OF THE BIG DUMP.
THE SITE OF THE BIG DUMP.
LET'S TALK TRADE CRAFT.
SO, YOU'RE MY CASE OFFICER -- MY AMERICAN CASE OFFICER --
AND I AM AN UNHAPPY SOVIET.
I'M ANGRY ABOUT MY LACK OF PROMOTION.
THE KGB IS JUST NOT APPRECIATING ME,
AND WE'VE ESTABLISHED A PRIOR RELATIONSHIP IN A THIRD COUNTRY.
DO I KNOW WHO I'M DEALING WITH?
DO I THINK I'M DEALING WITH THE AMERICANS,
OR AS YOU MASQUERADING AS A FRENCHMAN?
I DO?
I'VE TOLD YOU WHO I AM. YOU'VE ACTUALLY MET MY WIFE.
OH, REALLY?
THE RELATIONSHIP IS ABOUT.
SO, IF THINGS GO SOUR FOR ME,
THERE'S A ONE-ROOM APARTMENT IN CLEARWATER, FLORIDA,
WAITING FOR ME?
I THINK I'VE GIVEN YOU INSURANCES
AS TO WHAT WE'RE PREPARED TO DO.
SIGN ME UP.
WELL, THAT'S WHAT I THOUGHT WE WERE IN THE PROCESS OF DOING.
IF I WASN'T AMERICAN ALREADY, I'D BE DEFECTED.
BUT I DON'T WANT YOU TO DEFECT, OKAY?
YOU CAN DO MORE GOOD BY STAYING WHERE YOU ARE.
BUT I'M REALLY UNHAPPY THERE.
IT'S COLD. IT'S CABBAGE EVERY DAY.
AND I COULD GET KILLED AT ANY MOMENT.
WHAT'S IN IT FOR ME?
I'M VERY UNPOPULAR AT THE OFFICE, I SHOULD TELL YOU.
OKAY, BUT HOW ABOUT IF YOU WERE DOING SOMETHING
THAT MADE YOU VERY POPULAR WITH ANOTHER GROUP OF PEOPLE?
HOW ABOUT IF YOU WERE DOING SOMETHING
THAT GAVE YOU A SENSE OF ACCOMPLISHMENT?
MM-HMM.
IF YOU DON'T HAVE ANY SENSE OF WHY YOU WAKE UP IN THE MORNING
AND DO THINGS, THEN PUT AN END TO IT.
WOW.
[BLEEP] PRESSED TO BE A COMMUNIST NOW.
[ Russian accent ] I WANT TO RUN ON BEACH WITH PAM ANDERSON
[ LAUGHS ]
GOOD!
NA ZDOROVIE.
MMM, TASTES TREASONY.
WELL, WITH ME SIGNED ON TO BETRAY MY EASTERN-BLOC COUNTRY,
I'M READY FOR A LESSON
IN THE BASICS OF CLANDESTINE COMMUNICATIONS.
BASICALLY, HOW TO MAKE WHAT'S CALLED A DEAD DROP.
MAIL THIS, AND...
RIGHT, BUT YOU WANT TO DO IT UNOBTRUSIVELY.
SO, HOW WOULD I DO THAT? HOW WOULD I SURREPTITIOUSLY --
IT'S A METHOD AS OLD AS ESPIONAGE,
AND I DOUBT IT'S CHANGED SINCE MOSES' TIME.
THE MISSION: COMMUNICATE WITH MY HANDLER --
SIGNAL THAT I'VE GOT HARD INFORMATION TO BE PICKED UP
WITHOUT COMPROMISING EITHER ME OR MY CONTROL.
I'M DOING IT IN EXACTLY THE SAME WAY
THAT ALDRICH AMES DID IT IN EXACTLY THE SAME PLACE.
RIGHT.
...WE DRAW A LITTLE BIT ON MAGIC -- MISDIRECTION.
MAKE A BIGGER MOVEMENT TO COVER THE SMALL ONE.
IN FACT, YOU MIGHT EVEN MAIL THE LETTER
AND THEN LEAVE THE MARK WHILE YOU'RE WALKING AWAY.
SO, I THINK I WOULD PROBABLY WALK OVER...
YEAH, YEAH. THERE YOU GO. YEAH.
YEAH, PERFECT. THIS IS HOW THEY COME TO WORK.
I LOOK HARD FOR THOSE MARKS,
AND YOU PICK UP THE SIGNAL ON THAT MAILBOX.
YOU NOW KNOW IT'S LOADED.
PREVIOUSLY, SOMEWHERE ACROSS TOWN,
I'VE ALREADY TAKEN THE LIBERTY OF FILLING MY DROP.
MY FILLED CAN, WHICH IS LOADED WITH INFORMATION --
MICROFILM OR JUST A SIMPLE MESSAGE TO YOU --
SO I'M LOOKING TO DO THIS IN A WAY THAT REALLY
IS JUST NOT GONNA ATTRACT ATTENTION OR LOOK UNUSUAL,
AND I'M LOOKING TO PUT THIS
INTO A PLACE WE'VE ALREADY AGREED UPON WHERE IT'S GONNA BE.
YOU KNOW WHAT WOULD BE GOOD? IF I FEIGN TAKING A ***.
NO ONE LOOKS AT A GUY TAKING A ***.
ALL PETER'S GOT TO DO
IS CHECK OUT MY MAILBOX SIGNAL ON THE WAY TO WORK,
THEN FIND A WAY TO EMPTY MY DROP
AT A CONVENIENT AND SECURE TIME.
BINGO. TREASON -- IT'S THAT EASY.
I WANT YOU TO KNOW, A COUPLE JOCKS WALKED BY,
AND THAT VERY ATTRACTIVE WOMAN LOOKED AT YOU
SEE?
SO, I THINK IT WAS VERY SUCCESSFUL.
SEE? I'M TELLING YOU. I COULD BE GOOD AT THIS.
LOOK AT THAT -- THAT COULD STAY THERE FOR FIVE YEARS
AND NOT EVEN BE PULLED OUT.
I MIGHT USE THAT SPOT. [ LAUGHS ]
AFTER THE BREAK...
ONE OF THE FIRST THINGS I HEARD WHEN I CAME TO D.C. WAS,
"YOU GOT TO GO TO THIS CHICKEN JOINT."
EVERYBODY'S BEEN TRYING TO COPY IT, BUT NOBODY CAN DUPLICATE IT.
I USE MY NEWLY ACQUIRED SKILLS
TO EXTRACT D.C.'s BIGGEST CULINARY SECRETS.
Bourdain: CARTILAGE -- IT'S THE NEXT BIG THING, ISN'T IT?
MM-HMM.
THE BELTWAY.
INTERSTATE 495 IS A 64-MILE CIRCLE
OF HIGHWAY SURROUNDING WASHINGTON, D.C.
AS WELL AS CHUNKS OF VIRGINIA AND MARYLAND, D.C.'s SUBURBS --
REFERRED TO OFTEN AS "INSIDE THE BELTWAY."
I BEGAN NOTICING THAT EVERYWHERE I WENT IN D.C.,
PEOPLE WERE TALKING ABOUT A CHICKEN PLACE.
AN UNIMPRESSIVE-LOOKING PARKING LOT IN ARLINGTON, VIRGINIA.
THE SMELL OF SOMETHING TRULY DELICIOUS
ISSUING FROM SOMEWHERE.
EL POLLO RICO, THE LEGENDARY PERUVIAN CHICKEN JOINT
IN THE *** END OF THE UNIVERSE.
OH, MAN, THAT LOOKS GOOD. SMELLS GOOD, TOO.
I REALLY AND TRULY HAD HAD NO PLANS TO SHOOT HERE.
WE SHOWED UP COLD -- THEY DIDN'T EXPECT US,
AND I HAD NO ONE IN MIND TO SHOW ME AROUND.
BUT USING MY NEWFOUND RECRUITMENT SKILLS,
I MANAGED TO SANDBAG THESE GUYS STANDING ON LINE
FOR A LITTLE BACKGROUND.
SO, I'M REALLY GLAD I FOUND YOU GUYS.
I MEAN, I JUST CAME IN HERE COLD.
WE HADN'T PLANNED TO SHOOT HERE OR ANYTHING.
ONE OF THE FIRST THINGS I HEARD WHEN I CAME TO D.C. WAS,
"YOU GOT TO GO TO THIS CHICKEN JOINT."
I HEAR THERE ARE TRAFFIC JAMS AT NIGHT, PEOPLE TRYING TO GET IN.
Woman: OH, IT'S RIDICULOUS.
WHAT THEY DO.
EVERYBODY'S BEEN TRYING TO COPY IT, BUT NOBODY CAN DUPLICATE IT.
WHILE I DO MY FIELD WORK,
CAMERAMAN TODD LIEBLER RUNS HIS CAMERA AROUND THE KITCHEN.
FIRST, THE CHICKEN IS MARINATED,
THEN TIED ON ROTISSERIE SKEWERS,
THEN IT'S SLOWLY ROASTED OVER CHARCOAL.
BUT MARINATED IN WHAT, TODD? WHAT?!
IT'S THE SPICES.
HE BRINGS WHATEVER SPICE IS IN THIS FROM PERU.
THERE SOME FLAVOR IN HERE --
I DON'T KNOW WHAT IT IS, BUT IT'S REALLY GOOD.
YOU'RE RIGHT -- THE SPICES MAKE IT REALLY UNIQUE.
IT'S CRISPIER, REALLY MOIST. THEY GOT THIS DOWN.
[ LAUGHS ]
HOW DO THEY KEEP IT SECRET?
I MEAN, WHOEVER BUYS THE SPICES CAN'T EVER LEAVE THE JOB.
[ LAUGHTER ]
"SAIGON. STILL ONLY IN SAIGON."
HUH? WHAT WAS I SAYING? OH, YEAH.
STEAMING BOWLS OF PHO, BITTER MELON AND RAMBUTAN,
A HINT OF AIRBORNE FISH SAUCE, THE SMELL OF BURNING JOSS.
IT'S FALLS CHURCH, VIRGINIA?
Carmen: THIS IS THE EDEN CENTER.
IT IS THE CENTRAL PLACE FOR THE VIETNAMESE.
WELCOME TO EDEN CENTER, A 120-STORE COMPLEX
THAT CATERS TO THE AREA'S SIZABLE VIETNAMESE COMMUNITY.
YOU CAN EAT A BROAD SWATH UP AND DOWN THE VIETNAMESE COUNTRY
RIGHT HERE IN THE CENTER, YEAH.
THERE ARE A LOT OF LARGE
AND VIBRANT ETHNIC COMMUNITIES INSIDE THE BELTWAY,
AND WASHINGTON CITY PAPER COLUMNIST TIM CARMEN
HAS MADE A CAREER OUT OF INVESTIGATING ALL OF THEM.
Carmen: YOU'RE LOOKING AT A PLACE
THAT HAS 22 VIETNAMESE RESTAURANTS
THAT CATERS MOSTLY TO VIETNAMESE.
HENCE, THEY'RE COOKING FOR VIETNAMESE.
SHOE LEATHER AND A BIG APPETITE
BROUGHT HIM HERE, TO SONG QUE --
A VIETNAMESE SHOP SERVING BàNH MI,
CLASSIC VIETNAMESE TAKES ON THE SANDWICH,
MARRYING THE FRENCH BAGUETTE
AND DECIDEDLY VIETNAMESE INGREDIENTS.
I GUESS YOU CAN SAY "BON APPé***" IN A VIETNAMESE PLACE.
THE ONLY VIETNAMESE I KNOW IS "CHúC MUNG NAM MóI" --
"HAPPY NEW YEAR."
I ORDER THE PORK WHILE TIM GETS THE COMBO PATé AND HEADCHEESE,
BOTH DRESSED WITH PICKLED RADISH, CARROTS, CILANTRO,
CHILIES, AND FISH SAUCE.
I LOVE FISH SAUCE.
THAT FISH SAUCE JUST BRINGS OUT THE TASTE OF THE MEAT.
THIS IS HEADCHEESE?
YOU CAN TELL THE CARTILAGE IN IT --
IT GIVES IT A NICE SORT OF TEXTURAL --
CARTILAGE -- IT'S THE NEXT BEST THING, ISN'T IT?
I'M ONLY HALF-JOKING.
WE'VE ALREADY MADE THE MOVE TO FAT.
BUT NOW I THINK WE'RE MAKING THE NEXT LEAP
TO THAT TEXTURAL DIMENSION
WHICH IS, SORT OF -- IN A LOT OF WAYS -- THE LAST FRONTIER.
LATER, IT'S A CUISINE AND A DISH MUCH LESS FAMILIAR TO ME
AT ABAY MARKET, AN ETHIOPIAN PLACE ALSO IN FALLS CHURCH.
D.C. HAS LONG BEEN KNOWN
FOR ITS MANY EXCELLENT ETHIOPIAN RESTAURANTS,
BUT FEW SERVE WHAT WE'RE ABOUT TO EAT.
THOSE WHO DO OFTEN LEAVE IT OFF THE MENU.
ONCE YOU EAT IT, YOU'LL SEE WHY.
I MEAN, IF WE CAN GENERALIZE,
AMERICANS NOT SO CRAZY ABOUT RAW MEET.
Bourdain: WOW. WHOA.
THIS IS A ETHIOPIAN TARTAR. WE CALL IT "KITFO."
THE GROUND RAW MEAT?
MIXED WITH SPICES?
SPICES AND ETHIOPIAN BUTTER -- PURE ETHIOPIAN BUTTER.
THIS IS HOMEMADE CHEESE.
THIS IS RAW MEAT.
BIG, FREAKING HUNKS OF LEAN, RAW BEEF
WITH A DISTINCTIVE OUTER LAYER OF YELLOW FAT
INDICATING ENTIRELY GRASS-FED,
A FIERY DIPPING SAUCE CALLED "AWAZE."
AWAZE IS MADE OF ETHIOPIAN PEPPER,
GINGER, GARLIC WITH ETHIOPIAN WINE,
AND JUST A SMALL AMOUNT OF COCA-COLA.
WE'LL PUT IT FOR FERMENTATION, YOU KNOW?
WHENEVER IT'S FERMENTED, IT WILL BE VERY TASTEFUL, YOU KNOW?
FANTASTIC. AND THEN THE BREAD -- WHAT IS THE BREAD CALLED?
INJERA. MANY AMERICANS CALL IT "SPONGY BREAD."
PROPRIETOR YONAS ENDURED MUCH TO GET HERE,
TO BECOME AN AMERICAN AND BUILD A SUCCESSFUL RESTAURANT.
HE WAS AN OFFICER IN THE ETHIOPIAN ARMY IN THE LATE '70s
WHO FELL AFOUL OF THE WRONG PEOPLE
AND ENDED UP GETTING ABDUCTED BY THE KGB.
AND THEN I SERVED ALMOST 18 YEARS IN PRISON.
TODAY, YONAS ENJOYS A WELL-DESERVED SUCCESS
PROVIDED BY A MOSTLY ETHIOPIAN CLIENTELE WHO APPRECIATE
THE AUTHENTICITY AND CARE HE PUTS INTO HIS EFFORTS.
MMM. TASTY.
THE TARTAR-LIKE GROUND RAW MEAT
IS DELICIOUS, SPICY, AND FAMILIAR -- EASYGOING FOR ME.
THE BIG HUNKS OF RAW MEAT -- NOT SO MUCH.
IT TAKES SERIOUS JAW MUSCLES.
WE WERE TALKING EARLIER ABOUT TEXTURAL PREJUDICES,
TOTALLY.
AFRICANS ARE MORE -- THEY DON'T MIND CHEWY MEATS.
AND I'M REMINDED BY EATING THIS AGAIN THAT IT'S A CHEWY MEAT.
IT TAKES SOME JAW WORK TO GET IT DOWN.
THERE SEEMS TO BE A MAXIMUM NUMBER OF CHEWS AMERICANS LIKE.
"10 CHEWS, AND IF I HAVE DO MORE THAN 10 CHEWS,
I'M NOT GONNA EAT IT."
IN ALL YOUR TRAVELS,
HAVE YOU EVER HAD ANYTHING QUITE LIKE THIS DISH?
NO. I MEAN, SHORT ANSWER, I HAVEN'T HAD ANYTHING LIKE THIS.
WHEN YOU FIRST TASTE A CUISINE
THAT YOU'RE COMPLETELY UNFAMILIAR WITH,
RIGHT.
BECAUSE IT'S SO EASY, BECAUSE IT'S SO UNFAMILIAR.
AND IT MAY NOT BE THE TEXTURE,
IT MAY NOT BE THE FLAVOR THAT YOU'RE USED TO.
BUT, TO ME, IT'S LIKE THE GOAL
IS TO FIRST FIGURE IT OUT AND UNDERSTAND IT.
AGREED, MR. CARMEN, AGREED.
ON THE OTHER HAND, I'M STILL CHEWING.
COMING UP...
THIS IS LIKE A TIM BURTON DISH.
CHEF JOSé ANDRéS.
ABANDON ALL PRESUPPOSITIONS, YE WHO ENTER MINIBAR.
SO, YOU'VE ALREADY PISSED OFF EVERYBODY FROM NEW ENGLAND.
NOW WE'RE *** EVERYONE FROM PHILADELPHIA.
BUSINESS AS USUAL IN WASHINGTON.
CAN WE BREAK EVERYTHING FOR A SECOND AND GET ME A PLUM TOMATO RIGHT NOW?
MY FRIEND -- THE IRREPRESSIBLE, INGENIOUS,
AND ENDLESSLY ENERGETIC JOSé ANDRéS.
THE TOMATO REALLY HAS MANY STORIES TO TELL YOU.
BUT BECAUSE WE ARE IN THIS CRAZY WORLD THAT WE NEVER STOP
TO SPEAK TO THE POOR THINGS IN LIFE,
AND WE THINK WE KNOW A TOMATO.
THE TOMATO IS TELLING ME,
"JOSé, WHY YOU DON'T OPEN "A DOOR INTO MY HEART,
AND I WILL SHARE WITH YOU MY BIGGEST SECRET?"
[ OPERATIC SINGING ]
AND WHEN YOU TALK TO THE TOMATO, WE ARE ABLE TO FIND
THE MOST AMAZING GELATIN IN THE HISTORY OF MANKIND,
WHICH WE HAVE TO DO NOTHING -- ONLY LISTEN.
WE GET THESE SEEDS.
[ SLURPS ]
THAT'S THE GOOD STUFF.
JOSé IS BIG DADDY OF THE D.C. FINE-DINING SCENE
WITH SEVEN -- COUNT 'EM, SEVEN -- RESTAURANTS.
I'M HERE TO TRY HIS MOST CREATIVE AND EXPERIMENTAL --
HIS TINY, POCKET-SIZED RESTAURANT WITHIN A RESTAURANT,
MINIBAR -- SIX VERY SPECIAL SEATS IN A VERY SPECIAL BAR,
TUCKED AWAY INSIDE CAFé ATLáNTICO.
AT MINIBAR, WE DO WHAT PEOPLE -- IN A WRONG WAY,
THEY CALL THEM, "MOLECULAR GASTRONOMY,"
WHICH I DON'T CALL IT THAT WAY.
Bourdain: WHO ADMITS TO DOING MOLECULAR GASTRONOMY?
'CAUSE I DON'T KNOW ANYONE WHO SAYS, "I DO IT" --
OTHER THAN PEOPLE WHO DO IT REALLY BADLY.
TRYING TO KEEP UP WITH JOSé IS A HOPELESS TASK.
ONE SIMPLY GETS SWEPT UP INTO HIS WAKE AND HANGS ON.
HERE, HE WHIPSAWS ME THROUGH THE FARMERS MARKET
OUTSIDE HIS RESTAURANT.
PUT YOUR NOSE IN THE BOX OF PEACHES.
NICE.
NO, VERY CLOSE, VERY CLOSE. CLOSE TO THE SKIN.
THIS REMINDS ME OF CAMP.
COME ON! BUT THEY SMELL TO PEACHES!
SOMETIMES, IT'S SO DIFFICULT!
I'M IN LOVE WITH THIS.
IT'S IMPORTANT TO JOSé THAT PEOPLE REALIZE
THAT WHAT MATTERS IS WHAT THE FOOD IS SAYING,
NOT WHAT HE'S SAYING TO THE FOOD.
THAT MAKES PERFECT SENSE TO ME, BY THE WAY.
SEE, IT'S LIKE THIS BEAUTIFUL BLACKBERRIES. TAKE A LOOK.
IF WE WILL BREAK THIS INTO TINY ONES,
ALL OF A SUDDEN, BECOMES, LIKE, BIG CAVIAR,
SWEET PIECES OF BLACKBERRY.
THAT'S WHAT I WOULD DO AT MINIBAR.
I'M NOT DOING THAT RIGHT NOW, BUT I JUST GOT INSPIRED.
AND WE'RE OFF ON ONE
OF THE RISKIER AND GREATER ADVENTURES IN FOOD
YOU COULD HAVE IN AMERICA.
SOMETIMES, WE ONLY TRY TO IMPOSE
IS WHEN WE CREATE DISASTER DISHES.
WHEN YOU DON'T TRY TO IMPOSE,
YOU ONLY TRY TO GO WITH THE FLOW -- BINGO, YOU GOT IT.
[ AIR HISSES ]
SO, IN MY MOJITO,
THE MINT, THE RUM, THE LIME, THE CELERY -- TAKE A LOOK.
WE CALL THIS TECHNIQUE A SPHERIFICATION.
SO, THIS IS A LIQUID,
BUT IT'S A LIQUID SELF-CONTAINED BY ITS OWN LIQUID.
OH, MAN.
THAT'S NOT LIKE A MOJITO.
IT'S NOT REMINISCENT OF A MOJITO.
THAT'S A MOJITO, GRAVITY-FREE.
Man: BAGELS WITH CREAM CHEESE AND LOX.
SO WHAT WE'RE TRYING TO BRING HERE
IS USE THE PURITY OF THE FLAVORS
WITHOUT... SALMON AND BAGELS.
SO IT'S SALMON ROE AND CREAM CHEESE.
YOU DIDN'T GROW UP WITH BAGELS AND LOX, THOUGH.
[ SNAPS FINGERS ]
YOU'RE GETTING TO THE HEART OF WHAT MINIBAR IS.
IF I WANT TO HAVE CONVERSATIONS WITH MY CUSTOMERS,
I NEED TO SPEAK THE SAME LANGUAGE.
I CANNOT BE PRETENTIOUS AND EXPECT THEM TO UNDERSTAND ME.
SO A LOT OF WHAT PEOPLE ARE REACTING NEGATIVELY TO --
I THINK ABOUT A NEW SPANISH COOKING --
IS THERE IS NO REFERENCE POINT.
OR IF THERE IS A REFERENCE POINT,
IT'S NOT THEIR REFERENCE POINT.
THIS IS A NEW NEW ENGLAND CLAM CHOWDER.
"NEW" IN THE SENSE THAT IT'S DECONSTRUCTED.
EACH OF THE CLASSIC COMPONENTS IS PREPARED AND TREATED SEPARATELY
THEN ASSEMBLED NEXT TO EACH OTHER ON THE PLATE.
INTERMITTENT FLAVORS OF THE CONSTITUENT PARTS
MINGLE WITH THE REMEMBERED TASTE OF UNIFIED CHOWDER.
WHEN WE DID THIS DISH,
IT WAS PUBLISHED ONE TIME IN THE NEW YORK TIMES.
THEY SENT ME LETTERS FROM BOSTON.
OOH, THEY WERE PISSED, HUH?
YEAH.
THEY TAKE THEIR CHOWDERS REALLY SERIOUSLY.
PHILLY CHEESESTEAK.
SO, YOU'VE ALREADY PISSED OFF EVERYBODY FROM NEW ENGLAND.
NOW, WE'RE *** EVERYONE FROM PHILADELPHIA.
AGAIN, REFERENCE POINTS.
HERE, THE CLASSIC CHEEZ-*** SANDWICH IS MINIATURIZED
AND DRESSED UP WITH MOUSSE OF AGED CHEDDAR CHEESE,
TRUFFLES, AND KOBE BEEF.
YET THE EXPERIENCE
IS DESIGNED TO STILL BE MESSY, JUICY, AND COMFORTING.
YOU MANAGED TO TURN REALLY GOOD CHEESE INTO CHEEZ *** IN A GOOD WAY.
THAT'S A REALLY SINISTER IDEA.
♪ OH, YEAH ♪
SO, WHAT ARE WE EATING HERE? THIS IS GUACAMOLE.
ALL RIGHT.
AVOCADO, TOMATOES, CILANTRO, LIME, AND FRITOS.
OH, MY GOD. SOMETHING HAS HAPPENED.
I DON'T LIKE IT.
WELL, FINALLY, ONE DISH.
YOU KNOW, WE'RE TALKING ABOUT REFERENCE POINTS?
THIS IS A BAD REFERENCE POINT FOR ME --
***, 4:00 IN THE MORNING,
TOO MANY FRITOS AND PASSING OUT FACE-DOWN.
HAVE YOU EVER MADE OUT WITH A GIRL WITH FRITO BREATH?
COME ON. I MEAN, IT'S HAPPENED.
YOU DON'T WANT TO ADMIT IT, BUT IT'S HAPPENED.
CAN YOU CUT THIS? CUT, CUT, CUT, CUT!
OH, MAN.
OFTEN, YOU TALK ABOUT SEX ***.
AH [BLEEP]
NO, I DIDN'T MEANT SEX ***. I MEANT FOOD ***.
THIS IS STEAMED BRIOCHE, OSSETIA CAVIAR, AND LEMON.
THAT'S REALLY, REALLY [BLEEP] REMARKABLE.
HOLD ON. YOU ARE NOT CHARGING ME FOR THIS LATER?
NO, THAT'S GREAT. THAT'S ONE OF THE WORLD'S GREAT IDEAS.
YES.
[ LAUGHS ]
AND NOW WE CREATE A DISH IN THE HONOR OF ANTHONY BOURDAIN.
THIS IS LIKE A TIM BURTON DISH.
COTTON CANDY, LAKE EEL...
WASABI, GINGER, PICKLE, SEA SALT, SESAME SEEDS,
AND THEN YOU HAVE MISO PALORENTO.
WHAT'S THE NAME OF THE DISH?
[ LAUGHS ]
EVEN A SPANIARD LIKE ME UNDERSTANDS THE MEANING OF THIS.
IT'S THRILLING, LOOKS UNLIKE ANYTHING ELSE YOU'VE EVER HAD,
AND IT'S ABSOLUTELY DELICIOUS.
THAT'S A GENIUS DISH, ALSO.
THAT'S GREAT, AND IT IS LIKE CHASING THE DRAGON, ACTUALLY.
YOU REALLY KIND OF GOT TO GET IT QUICK.
FOOD SHOULD BE ALWAYS PLAYFUL, ANTHONY.
CARAMELIZED POPCORN, DIPPED IN LIQUID NITROGEN.
LOOK AT ME! LOOK AT ME!
OKAY, THIS IS CARAMELIZED POPCORN.
IT'S WHAT IT IS. I GREW UP WITH THIS -- PROBABLY YOU.
IT'S KIND OF MAKING FUN OF THE JUNK FOOD.
AND IT'S A GAME. I WANT YOU TO LOVE.
WHAT I RESPECT MOST ABOUT THIS KIND OF COOKING
IS THAT THERE'S ALMOST NO WAY
THE CUSTOMER IS GONNA LOVE ABSOLUTELY EVERYTHING.
BUT MORE OFTEN THAN NOT AT MINIBAR, IT'S EXTRAORDINARY.
HEY, WE NEED TO GO.
PLEASURE MEETING YOU.
GENTLEMEN, THAT WAS REALLY, REALLY SUPERB.
HEY, AND YOU'RE NOT GOING AWAY WITHOUT PAYING THE BILL, MAN.
THE CHECK, SIR.
"THIS TIME, NO RESERVATIONS."
"CALL 30 DAYS AHEAD, YOU ***."
[ LAUGHTER ]
OH, THAT'S COLD, MAN!
THANK YOU, MY FRIEND.
YOU ARE SO HAPPY.
AFTER THE BREAK...
Bo: MY MISSION WAS
TO BE THE BEST BANK ROBBER TO COME OUT OF WASHINGTON.
IN THE MEAN STREETS OF D.C.,
A DIFFERENT KIND OF KITCHEN IS CHANGING LIVES.
EX-BANK ROBBER, EX-ADDICT, EX-CON.
YOU NAME IT, AND I'M "EX."
Bo: NOW, IF YOU WAS ANY KIND OF HUSTLER,
UH, BECAUSE I STARTED OFF, OBVIOUSLY, ON DOPE,
AND, OF COURSE, MOST DRUG SELLERS
END UP BEING THEIR OWN BEST CUSTOMER, AND I WAS ONE OF THEM.
IT'S ONLY RIGHT AFTER THOROUGHLY ENJOYING
AN EXPENSIVE AND ELABORATE TASTING MENU
AT ONE OF THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN THE COUNTRY
THAT WE TAKE A LOOK AT THE OTHER SIDE OF THE COIN,
WHERE DINNER ITSELF -- ANY DINNER -- CAN BE A LUXURY.
MEET BO.
MY MISSION WAS
TO THE BEST BANK ROBBER TO COME OUT OF WASHINGTON.
THEY GAVE ME 20 YEARS FOR ONE BANK ROBBERY,
GAVE ME 10 YEARS FOR ANOTHER -- ASSAULT AND ATTEMPTED KILL --
AND GAVE ME ANOTHER 10 YEARS
FOR ANOTHER ASSAULT AND ATTEMPTED KILL.
SO IT ENDED UP BEING 40 YEARS.
AFTER 18 YEARS IN PRISON, HE WAS RELEASED ON PAROLE.
HEY, CHAMP.
YOU EAT YOUR LUNCH? HUH?
YOU EATING ALL OF IT? WHY YOU EAT ALL OF IT?
AS ANYBODY WHO'S EVER BEEN ON DOPE KNOWS,
THE NUMBERS IN SUCH CIRCUMSTANCES
ARE STACKED AGAINST YOU.
IT COULD BE A COLD, LONELY ROAD BACK -- PARTICULARLY
WHEN IT SEEMS, SOMETIMES, LIKE THERE'S NOWHERE TO GO.
YOU HAD A GOOD DAY, HUH?
YEAH. I'M ABOUT TO GRADUATE.
YOU ABOUT TO GRADUATE -- IN 2021.
I'M GONNA GRADUATE.
YEP.
THAT'S RIGHT.
SOMETIMES, THOUGH, PEOPLE HELP YOU ON YOUR WAY.
YOU JUST WENT TO WORK.
NOW I'VE GOT TO GO TO WORK.
SEE YOU LATER, ALL RIGHT, CHAMP?
ENTER D.C. CENTRAL KITCHEN,
AN IMPORTANT AND ALL-TOO-RARE BRIDGE
FROM ONE WORLD TO ANOTHER.
SO, ROBERT, WHO ARE YOU GUYS AND WHAT DO YOU DO HERE?
WELL, THE KITCHEN --
EVERY DAY, WE BRING IN ABOUT TWO TONS OF FOOD
FROM RESTAURANTS, HOTELS, HOSPITALS.
THIS TOWN'S AWASH IN FOOD THAT USED TO BE THROWN AWAY.
SO ABOUT 20 YEARS AGO, WE STARTED THIS, AND IT WAS SIMPLE.
"LET'S JUST GET ALL THIS FOOD, BRING IT TO A CENTRAL KITCHEN,
AND WE'LL START A BASIC COOKING PROGRAM."
WE'RE NOT TRYING TO CREATE CHEFS
AS MUCH AS JUST GETTING PEOPLE READY TO SHOW UP ON TIME,
WORK AS A TEAM, NOT CUT OFF THEIR FINGERS.
YOU'RE NOT JUST A FOOD BANK --
YOU'RE ESSENTIALLY FEEDING PEOPLE
AND YOU'RE TRAINING PEOPLE TO COOK.
YEAH, TOTALLY. THE WHOLE IDEA IS "NO WASTE."
YOU JUST HATE TO SEE FOOD WASTED, PEOPLE'S LIVES WASTED.
ONE OF THOSE LIVES, BO'S, WAS ON THE VERY EDGE OF YET ANOTHER
IN A LONG LINE OF DISASTERS
UNTIL HE FOUND THE TRAINING PROGRAM AT CENTRAL KITCHEN.
THE KEYS. THE KEYS ARE SYMBOLIC.
I TRY TO GET EVERY KEY I CAN GET TO ADD TO A RING,
AND I KNOW WHERE EACH AND EVERY LAST ONE OF THEM GO.
WHEN YOU'RE IN THAT CELL, YOU DON'T HAVE ANY KEYS.
WHEN THE GUARDS COME AROUND TO COUNT,
THAT'S ALL YOU HEAR IS KEYS JINGLING.
NOBODY TRUSTED ME WITH ANY KEYS.
NOW, YOU KNOW, THEY DO.
WE'RE OFFICIALLY OPEN FOR BUSINESS TODAY.
THESE DAYS, HIS KEY RING IS FULL --
EACH KEY ANOTHER PERSON WHO TRUSTS AND RELIES ON HIM
AND LOOKS TO HIM FOR LEADERSHIP.
Bo: SO, YEAH, YOU'RE GONNA HAVE TAKE CONTROL
OF WHERE THINGS ARE GOING
AND KNOW -- UNTIL I CAN GET YOU THE MENUS --
'CAUSE HE'S PREPARING THEM NOW.
BO'S NOW THE CHEF
AND RESPONSIBLE FOR SUPERVISING THE FULL KITCHEN STAFF,
MANY OF WHOM ARE TRYING TO REBUILD THEIR LIVES, TOO.
THEY PREPARE OVER 4,500 MEALS A DAY FOR THE NEEDY,
AS WELL AS MAINTAINING A FOR-PAY CATERING OPERATION
FOR SURROUNDING BUSINESSES.
Y'ALL ARE REALLY APPRECIATED.
I JUST WANT Y'ALL TO KNOW THAT.
ONCE A MONTH, A LOCAL VOLUNTEER GROUP COMES IN
TO PREPARE A VEGETARIAN MEAL,
GIVING MUCH OF THE REGULAR STAFF A BREAK.
TODAY IS THAT DAY.
SO YOU GOT EVERYTHING UNDER CONTROL.
YOU'RE LOOKING GOOD.
LOOKING GOOD, LOOKING GOOD -- JUST LIKE WE SHOULD.
JUST LIKE WE SHOULD.
IT'S REALLY A GOOD FEELING
BECAUSE WHO WOULD HAVE THOUGHT ME --
EX-BANK ROBBER, EX-ADDICT, EX-CON,
YOU NAME IT, AND I'M "EX" -- TO BE ABLE TO DO THAT?
MOTIVATE OTHER PEOPLE?
RIGHT. TO SUPERVISE.
YEAH.
I CAME HERE, MAD AT THE WORLD, WITH A CHIP ON MY SHOULDER,
AND THEY SHOWED ME THE ATTITUDE THAT YOU HAVE --
LEAVE IT AT THE DOOR
BECAUSE IT'S NOT NECESSARY IN THIS ENVIRONMENT.
HEY, IT WAS A LIFE-SAVING EVENT.
IN ANY KITCHEN SITUATION,
TOO MUCH STANDING AROUND TENDS TO GET NOTICED.
TV HOST OR NOT, IT'S TIME FOR WORK.
Bourdain: YELLOW SQUASH, ZUCCHINI, ONIONS, CAULIFLOWER,
GREEN PEPPER, KIDNEY BEANS IN A TOMATO SAUCE,
PARMESAN CHEESE OVER FETTUCCINE.
I SEE YOUR FETTUCINI COOKED UP THERE.
THESE LADIES OVER HERE ARE CUTTING UP VEGETABLES.
BUT ME?
AFTER A FEW QUESTIONS ABOUT MY BACKGROUND
AS A CULINARY PROFESSIONAL, BO TELLS ME HE KNOWS
JUST THE RIGHT POSITION FOR ME IN THE ASSEMBLY LINE.
ALL RIGHT, SURE.
THE SARAN WRAP STATION.
28 YEARS IN THE BUSINESS. I BETTER KNOW HOW TO DO THAT.
IN A KITCHEN LIKE THIS ONE, THERE'S NO CODDLING
FOR EXPENSIVE-CULINARY-DEGREE HOLDERS.
NO ROOM FOR INFLATED EGOS.
THERE'S ONLY THE FAITHFUL EXERCISE
OF SOUND LEADERSHIP PRINCIPLES
AND THE URGENT NEED TO PREPARE SIMPLE, NOURISHING FOOD.
THIS SUCKS.
COMING UP, CHESAPEAKE BAY CRABS.
BEFORE YOU KNOW IT, WE'LL EAT THE WHOLE BATCH.
TEAR OPEN BAG, GRAB MALLET, AND, LIKE THE MAN SAYS...
GET UP IN HERE.
...GET UP IN THERE.
IN SOUTHWEST D.C., ON FLOATING BARGES RIGHT IN THE POTOMAC,
IS THE MAINE AVENUE FISH MARKET,
KNOWN TO LOCALS AS THE FISH WHARF.
IT'S ONLY 15 MINUTES WALK FROM THE JEFFERSON MEMORIAL,
BUT YOU NEVER SEE TOURISTS HERE.
HELL, I NEVER KNEW IT EXISTED.
HEAPS OF CHESAPEAKE BAY CRABS, FRESH CAUGHT,
TOSSED WITH SEASONING, STEAMED,
AND SERVED RIGHT THERE OUT OF BROWN PAPER BAGS.
CAN WE GET SIX FEMALE, SIX MALE?
ON HIS LUNCH BREAK FROM THE CENTRAL KITCHEN,
BO AND I HIT THE MARKET FOR A BAG OF CRABS.
WHAT IS THAT? OLD BAY SPICE THEY JUST THROW RIGHT IN THERE?
SHAKE IT UP?
YEAH.
GONNA ROCK AND ROLL!
WE GONNA ROCK AND ROLL. HEY, HEY!
TEAR OPEN BAG, GRAB MALLET,
GET UP IN HERE.
...GET UP IN THERE.
AH, HERE WE GO. I SEE.
YEAH, YOU'RE UP IN THERE NOW.
AND THIS IS WHY I LIKE THE LADY CRABS,
THAT ROE.
YEAH. GET UP IN THERE.
MM-HMM.
OH, YEAH.
BEFORE YOU KNOW IT, WE'LL EAT THE WHOLE BATCH.
I'M SURPRISED. THERE'S A LOT OF MEAT IN THERE.
MM-HMM.
SO, NOW, AFTER ALL YOU'VE BEEN THROUGH,
ALL THE THINGS YOU'VE DONE, GOOD AND BAD,
IS IT GOOD TO STILL BE ALIVE AND LIVING IN HOPE?
YEAH, YEAH.
IN WASHINGTON, D.C.?
YEAH, YEAH, YEAH, DEFINITELY.
I MEAN, THE MORE I WORK, THE MORE I COME TO THE KITCHEN,
THE MORE I ACCEPTED THE FACT THAT,
"HEY, I CAN MAKE THIS WORK. THE SKY IS THE LIMIT FOR YOU."
Bourdain: WHAT'S A GOOD DAY FOR YOU?
A GOOD DAY OFF -- WHAT'S A REALLY GOOD DAY OFF?
PERFECT DAY IS TO WAKE UP, LOOK FORWARD...
TAKE MY SON -- TAKE HIM TO SCHOOL,
PICK HIM UP, AND TO HEAR HIM SAY,
"I LOVE YOU, DADDY,
AND I HAD A REALLY NICE DAY IN SCHOOL TODAY."
THOSE WERE WORDS AND ACTIONS
THAT I NEVER IMAGINED WERE THERE FOR ME.
WHAT WOULD YOU WANT FOR YOUR SON --
WHAT KIND OF A LIFE?
IN A PERFECT WORLD, WHAT WOULD YOU WANT FOR YOUR SON?
I WANT HIM TO HAVE TO EXPERIENCE NOTHING THAT I WENT THROUGH,
AND I CONSTANTLY TELL HIM
THAT YOU CAN BE WHATEVER YOU WANT TO BE.
YOU DON'T HAVE TO SETTLE FOR LESS.
Boy: YOU LOOK LIKE A HOUSE.
I LOOK LIKE A HOUSE? YOU LOOK LIKE A TRUCK.
YOU LOOK LIKE A STICK.
[ CHUCKLES ]
YOU LOOK LIKE A SEGWAY. YEAH.
YOU LOOK LIKE A TRASH CAN.
[ LAUGHS ]
YOU GOT HOMEWORK, THOUGH, RIGHT?
YEP.
THAT'S RIGHT. STAY FOCUSED.
GOOD BOY, GOOD BOY.
D.C. IS NOT JUST A CITY
OF DEAD PRESIDENTS AND COLD MARBLE MONUMENTS.
THE PEOPLE WE SEE WORKING HERE ON OUR TELEVISION SCREENS,
IN THE HALLS OF POWER
AND THE PLUSH SEATS OF SUNDAY MORNING PUNDITRY,
OFTEN HAVE AS LITTLE TO DO WITH THE CITY ITSELF
AND THE PEOPLE WHO ACTUALLY LIVE HERE
AS ANY CREATURES FROM ANOTHER UNIVERSE.
THIS IS A CITY FILLED
WITH ACTUAL LIVING, BREATHING, EATING AMERICANS,
NOT VESSELS FOR ONE IDEOLOGY OR ANOTHER,
EMPTY SUITS, AND EMPTY IDEAS --
HARD LIVES, HARD STRUGGLES, AND LONG ROADS TO GET HERE.
MAYBE AT THE END OF THE DAY,
A DELICIOUS BITE, A LAUGH,
A WARM WELCOME WITH SOMEBODY YOU DIDN'T KNOW BEFORE
IS MUCH AS CAN REASONABLY BE HOPED FOR.
MAYBE OUR KIDS WILL GET IT RIGHT.
[ INDISTINCT CONVERSATIONS ]