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Hi, my friends. At my cloths you see the seasons
Today we have temperatures like in Moscow
Meanwhile my Golf is a classic car and today it will have its service
Such old cars have an inspection interval of 7500 km, but you may extend it to 10000 km
The service starts with changing the oil. For this I run the engine to heat it up
I open the lid
The drain plug is here
You'll need a 19 mm hexagon socket. It is better as a box wrench
One strong strike and the plug is open
Take care, the oil is hot
Look, what a small drain plug has our Golf
For loosening the oil filter I use such a chain
After draining the oil, I remove the oil filter
Clean all
Coat the gasket with grease. You may use oil, but with grease it is easier to detect leakages later on
Mount the new filter
Fasten the filter by hand only, but a strong hand
Clean the drain plug and use a new sealing ring
Mount the drain plug
Fasten the drain plug with care
Don't forget to fill in new oil, but remind this small engine gets only a little more than 3 l
Check the level at the dipstick
Let's have a look
Now the level is at max.
Close the lid
Run the engine at idle until the oil warning will go out
and it is okay
The oil went now in the filter and the level is down to min.
Fill in more oil
Now it is perfect
We are going now to check the gear box oil
The gear box is here, this is the drain plug
The control plug is here
Use a 17 mm Allen socket for opening the control plug
When oil is flowing out, the level is fine
I add a little oil
After filling fasten the control plug with care
You'll feel it when the plug is fastened
I had never problems with leakages at this point
Check if the wheels follow the steering wheel directly
Check if the driveaxle boots are still tight
Have a look if there are cracks in the rubber
Here we have a starting crack, we'll have to change the boots soon
The same for the inner boots, but there lifetime is usually longer
Check also the boots at the steering rods
That's Volkswagen quality
The tie rod ends are still tight
Check the play in the tie rod end
The same on the other side
The ball joint looks okay
Check the ball joint with a pry bar
also the inner joint is okay
Check the play of the driveaxle. Axial play is normal, radial it should be not much
the same for the other side
Check the brake caliper for leakages
The hoses are brand new, have you seen our video how to replace them?
All is tight, no problem
Have a look on the brake rotors. This is still good, practically no wear
For checking the thickness of the brake pads have a look through the wheel
This pad has more than 5 mm, the wear limit would be 2 mm without the plate
Such a old car has drum brakes in the rear
The drums have an inspection hole which is closed by a rubber plug
The thickness of the pads is still okay
Check the drums for leakages
Check the play of the wheel bearings
A critical point at the mark 1 was always rust at the mounts of the rear axis
The next service point is the exhaust system. I follow the pipe starting from the muffler
Check all the rubber hangers
This rubber and the clamp are still fine
the catalytic converter and the exhaust manifold
the heating of the caburator
All is tight and fixed, no bolt broken - all in order
Check the fuel line starting from the tank
Here are two more brake hoses. Check for cracks
The bushes of the rear axis mounts have to be replaced in the future
Follow the brake lines. Look for rust and damages
Check the engine mounts - the rear one
The front mount on the left side is also good
The same for the right engine mount
Inspect the engine from lower side
Have an eye on water and oil leakages
A little oil is normal for an engine of this age
Most of the oil comes from the distributor
The shaft seals at the drive axles are okay
The seal at the crank shaft is still tight
Let's have a look on the drive belt
The lower hose to the radiator is tight and flexible
The hoses of the heating are okay
Under the carburetor all looks okay, the water pipe along the engine is also fine
The free way of the clutch pedal should be 15 - 20 mm
I have a little less than 20 mm
Coat the clutch cable with fresh grease
For testing the brake booster I press the brake 10 times
When starting the engine the pedal must drop a little deeper
Spray some oil in the door handle
A little oil in the lock
Here and here some oil
Put some grease on the hook and the lock works like on the first day
Lubricate door hinges and tethers
Repeat the same procedure with all the doors
Don't forget the tail gate
Some oil for the hood latch
The light check belongs to every service
I start with the position lights
The rear position lights and the lights for the registration plate
The brake lights
Revers lights
Low beam - high beam
Direction indicator
emergency flashers
That's all, more lights the Golf doesn't have. No fog lights, no third brake lights
Let's check the horn
The right pressure for the tires you find at the door frame
For the empty car it would be 1.7 bar for the front and 1.7 bar for the rear axis
Good, I wouldn't call it empty with me, thus I fill 1.8 and 2.2 bar in
A good shop doesn't forget the spare wheel
Check the profil of the tires and the wear
Check the nozzles
Fill up the water reservoir
The Golf has a second water reservoir for the rear window
This classic car has no expansion tank, the cooling liquid comes directly in the radiator
Here is the line for Max. I'll add a little
I'll have now a look on all parts which have been invisible from downstairs
The hoses to the water tube at the engine are fine
Coat the cable of the heating valve with fresh grease
The same for the throttle cable and it will run like my Porsche
Check the fuel hoses to and from the carburetor, here they are rather new
The gasket of the valve chamber is always a problem at this model. Here is all new, you know the video!
Here we have a problem, the vacuum line to the distributor isn't good
I'm going to replace it
The same problem with the thermovalve at the intake
Of course will replace the air filter
Remove the air filter housing completly
Here we have another broken vacuum hose
I continue with the spark plugs
Remove the ignition cable and check it
Still okay but the aren't the best
Clean the place around the spark plug, so no dirt drops in the cylinder
Replace the spark plugs always when the engine is cold
Have a look on the spark plug condition
Remove the caps of the new spark plugs
Check the distance of the electrodes
Insert the spark plugs carefully in the thread
Fasten the new spark plugs with 20 Nm
Putting back the cables prevents you from interchanging
The same procedure for all the spark plugs
Remount the housing of the air filter
Fasten carefully
Mount the air nozzle using talcum powder
The new air filter - do you remember how complicate it has been at the Passat
The cover has a nose here
That's all, you cannot make an error here
Don't forget the vacuum hose to the distributor
Open the 2 clamps of the fuel filter
When removing the fuel hoses some fuel will come out
The fuel filter has a direction I marked it red
Put the filter in the hoses and fix the clamps
Have a look on the timing belt
A broken timing belt isn't a real problem at this engine, the valves don't enter in the range of the pistons
This is classic mechanics, a timing belt cover of metal
Remove the cover in upward direction
That's quality
Check the timing belt
The water pump looks also okay
The hose is broken, but it's still long enough to cut it
The Golf has a battery which needs some service
I open all the cells and check the level of the acid
The level is okay in all cells
I measure the density of the acid
Close the cells, fasten the screw plugs with care
The brake liquid is okay
It remains now the check of the ignition system and the idle frequency
First I have a look at the breaker
Remove the rotor
check it and clean it
Have a look at the distributor cap. Check it for cracks and discharges
Check and clean the contacts
The breaker is under the bearing plate
I clean the breaker contacts with a contact file and then I'll decide if I replace them
Remount the bearing plate, take care the nose is at its place
At this engine, all adjustment has to be done with the mounted bearing plate
Mount the rotor and the distributor cap
Fix it with the lower and the upper clamp
Check if the green cable is at its place
For measuring the ignition setup I use a stroboscope with dwell display
The device has 4 connections, a induction probe, a green line and the power supply
Put the inductive probe to the cable of spark plug 1
The green line is connected to the green cable at the distributor
I specially installed a T-connector at the distributor
Red and black are the standard colors for the power supply
The red one comes on the positive pole
and the black one comes to the negative pole
First I measure the dwell. It should be between 44° and 50°
Because the dwell is too large and has the tendency to increase with the time, I have to adjust it
Normally you would crank the engine now with the starter, open the screw at the breaker and move it until the dwell is correct
Due to the bearing plate this is quite complicate here, thus I will the adjust the distance of the contacts statically to 0,4 mm using a distance gauge
Later we'll control it with dwell tester
By changing the dwell also the ignition timing is disturbed
I installed a Ohmmeter between the green cable and mass
I crank the engine
The breaker is closed now
and now it opens
The breaker should open when the mark reaches the first line
This is just the point
The ignition timing is adjusted by turning the whole distributor
Loosen the 3 bolts of the distributor
I turn the distributor until the sounds disappear, meaning that the breaker just opens
and fasten the screws in this position
Not okay, I adjust it now dynamically
The bolts on the distributor are loose and I can turn it hand, checking the ignition point the same time
For the final I mount some new wipers
Unplug the clip and remove it
Insert the new wiper
The same for the other side
and it is fixed
The seeing is okay now
We have a test drive now and the service accomplished
Bye, bye see you again in our next video �