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[ GUNSHOTS ]
THE FLESH OF ANIMALS, AN
OPEN FLAME, ALCOHOL, AND
FIREARMS.
AND MEN DANCING TOGETHER.
COME ON.
I'M ANTHONY BOURDAIN.
I WRITE, I TRAVEL, I EAT, AND
I'M HUNGRY FOR MORE.
>> ♪ OOH, YOU GOT TO ♪
♪ GET LOST ♪
♪ NO RESERVATIONS ♪
>> AH, GREECE -- CRADLE OF
WESTERN DEMOCRACY, LAND OF
MYTHIC BEAUTY.
IN FACT, I BELIEVE THE GREEKS
INVENTED MYTHIC BEAUTY.
BRAVE ULYSSES SAILED THESE SEAS
FOR 10 YEARS.
ME, I'VE GOT A WEEK.
IT'S NOT ENOUGH TIME FOR A
ANY KIND OF SERIOUS ODYSSEY, BUT
CERTAINLY ENOUGH TIME TO SAMPLE
SOME FOOD.
LIKE ULYSSES' TIME AT SEA, THERE
WILL BE *** ADVENTURE...
>> WHOA.
>> ...SOME ROUGH WATERS...
FREAKIN' VARNISH.
...PLENTY OF MAN-ON-MAN
ACTION...
THIS WEEK ON "DANCING WITH THE
STARS"...
...AND MORE THAN ONE GOLDEN
FLEECE.
DADDY'S A BAD MAN.
A BAD MAN.
BUT I HAVE TO ADMIT, THIS AIN'T
EXACTLY THE FIRST PLACE I'D
INSTINCTIVELY COME TO VISIT.
FRANKLY NEVER PLANNED TO COME
HERE, AND IT REALLY WASN'T ON MY
LIST.
PEOPLE KEEP ASKING ME YEAR AFTER
YEAR, "WHY NOT GREECE?
WHY NOT GREECE?"
EXPECTATIONS OF GREEK CUISINE?
I'VE HEARD THERE IS LAMB
INVOLVED, FRESH FISH FROM THE
SEA.
WHAT DO I KNOW ABOUT GREEK
CUISINE?
NEXT TO NOTHING.
EXCEPT THAT NOODLE CASSEROLE
[BLEEP]
THAT'S [BLEEP] AWFUL.
MOUSSAKA?
IT'S LIKE A BRICK.
I WON'T BE EATING -- YEAH.
I PLEDGE NOW, NO MOUSSAKA ON
THIS TRIP.
COME ON, LET'S DO THE SAILS.
I'M OUT OF MATERIAL HERE.
I HAVE TO CONFESS, I PUT OFF
COMING HERE FOR A LONG TIME.
EARLY IN MY COOKING CAREER, I
HAD A DEEPLY TRAUMATIC
EXPERIENCE WORKING FOR A FAMILY
OF GREEK RESTAURATEURS, AND IT
LEFT ME DEEPLY SCARRED AND
UNFAIRLY AVERSE TO THE FOOD.
BUT PRETTY MUCH KICKING AND
SCREAMING, I'M FINALLY HERE.
[ ACCORDION PLAYING ]
I BEGIN MY JOURNEY IN CRETE, THE
LARGEST OF THE GREEK ISLANDS.
NOW, MOST PEOPLE WHO COME HERE
HEAD RIGHT FOR THE RUINS.
ME -- NO, THANKS.
I'LL CATCH THAT ON THE DISCOVERY
CHANNEL.
I FIRST WANT TO GET MY
IRRATIONAL FEARS AND PREJUDICES
ABOUT GREEK FOOD OUT OF THE WAY.
AND FOOD WRITER BYRON AYANOGLU
IS THERE TO HELP.
>> HI, TONY, HOW ARE YOU?
>> FOR THE DURATION OF MY
ODYSSEY, BYRON HAS TO DEAL WITH
MY BAD ATTITUDE AND SOUR,
MOUSSAKA-HATING DISPOSITION.
FISH FIRST.
I LIKE FISH.
WHAT ARE THE PRINCIPAL FISH FOR
THE DIET AROUND HERE?
>> THE SMALL FISH -- I PREFER IT
A BIT CHEAPER, BUT OF COURSE,
EVERYONE PREFERS THE BIGGER
FISH, LIKE GROUPER.
THIS FISH IS THE MAINSTAY OF THE
GREEK HOUSEHOLD.
THIS IS THE ONE THAT EVERYBODY
CAN AFFORD.
FISH IS A LUXURY.
THE NORMAL DIET, AND THIS IS THE
DIET THAT KEEPS THE GREEKS
LIVING FOREVER, ARE THOSE GREENS
OVER THERE -- WILD GREENS.
NAMANGASI.
THOSE, OVER THERE, ALSO GROWING
WILD.
>> WHAT'S THIS HERE?
>> THOSE ARE CALLED LITTLE
GRANDMOTHERS.
GRANDMOTHERS HERE HAVE BEARDS.
>> OH, THAT'S WHY HUGGING
GRANDMA WAS ALWAYS PROBLEMATIC.
>> ALWAYS A BIT SCRATCHY.
>> BUT IT'S BASICALLY NUTRITIOUS
FILLER.
>> YES, THERE'S A LOT OF VERY
OLD PEOPLE HERE, AND IT'S
BECAUSE OF THESE GREENS, BECAUSE
OF THE WALKING UP AND DOWN THE
HILLS, AND THE OLIVE OIL.
YOU WANT TO LIVE A LONG TIME,
YOU HAVE TO MOVE HERE.
THE WINE AND THE RAKI HELP ALSO.
>> I'LL BE NEEDING A LAMB CHOP
A LITTLE MORE FREQUENTLY.
>> YOU CAN EAT LAMB CHOPS.
WE HAVE A LOVELY HEAD OF A...
>> WHAT WOULD I DO WITH A HEAD?
>> THEY MAKE A SOUP.
>> A SOUP.
I'M HUNGRY, MAN.
>> ME TOO.
>> LET'S EAT.
ENOUGH TALK.
IF I'M GONNA TRULY LEARN TO
APPRECIATE GREEK CUISINE, I'M
GONNA HAVE TO DIVE RIGHT IN.
I PUT BYRON TO WORK AND SEND HIM
OFF TO SET UP A MEAL.
BEER'S DECENT.
AND THAT'S IMPORTANT.
I KNOW NOTHING YET.
YOU KNOW, LIKE LESS THAN ZERO.
I'VE ONLY BEEN HERE AN HOUR OR
SO.
I'LL TELL YOU, THOUGH, THE
CLOTHES ARE A PROBLEM.
IT REALLY LOOKS LIKE SOMEBODY
BLEW UP A DRESS BARN.
UGLY CLOTHES CENTRAL.
I THOUGHT WE WERE LIKE THE KINGS
OF CHUNKITUDE.
I'LL TELL YOU, I'M FEELING A LOT
BETTER ABOUT AMERICA THESE DAYS,
YOU KNOW?
[ SIGHS ]
FINALLY, THE MOMENT OF TRUTH --
MY FIRST MEAL IN GREECE.
FIRST UP, TRIPE SOUP AND
MARIDES, A FAVORITE FISH OF
WORKING-CLASS CRETE AND RIGHT IN
MY COMFORT ZONE.
SO, SHOW ME HOW IT'S DONE.
>> THIS IS THOSE FISH THAT
I SHOWED YOU, AND THEY FRY THEM.
>> OH, YEAH, THIS I KNOW HOW TO
EAT.
YEAH, A LITTLE LIME.
YEAH, IT'S DELICIOUS.
NEXT, TRIPE SOUP.
THAT TASTES REALLY, REALLY GOOD.
THIS, FRANKLY, SMELLED LIKE
WET DOG, BUT IT TASTES VERY
NICE.
AND THEN GREENS.
>> THESE ARE THE GREENS.
>> CENTRAL TO LIFE.
>> YEAH, CENTRAL.
THESE ARE YOUR...
>> THAT IS LAMB SWEET BREADS?
>> LAMB SWEET BREADS.
>> OH, NICE.
THERE'S A POPULAR MISCONCEPTION
WHEN PEOPLE HEAR ABOUT SWEET
BREADS -- THEY THINK IT'S
BRAINS -- IT'S NOT.
IT'S THE THYMUS GLAND.
THAT'S GOOD.
THAT'S JUST GLAND-DELICIOUS.
THE MEAL CONTINUES -- CHICK PEAS
SAUTéED WITH LEMON AND OLIVE
OIL, STEWED WILD GOAT, DISHES
DOCUMENTED AS FAR BACK AS THE
TIME OF THE MINOANS AND
OTTOMANS.
WHAT WE'VE SEEN HERE IS LARGELY
A STORY OF INVASION, OCCUPATION,
DEPRIVATION, RESULTING IN GOOD
STUFF.
>> CORRECT.
>> I MEAN, IT TOOK A LOT OF
BLOOD AND A LOT OF PAIN AND
A LOT OF YEARS TO --
>> MAKE THIS DISH.
>> CHEERS TO THAT.
>> CHEERS.
>> YOU DON'T COME TO CRETE TO
LINGER IN THE CITIES, OR AT
LEAST I DON'T.
THE FURTHER YOU HEAD OUT OF
TOWN, THE MORE AUSTERE AND
HARSHLY BEAUTIFUL THE LANDSCAPE.
ROCK, SCRUB, AND SHEEP.
LOTS OF SHEEP.
>> HEY!
>> WHY DO I HAVE A FEELING I'LL
BE SEEING YOU GUYS LATER?
>> [ WHISTLES ]
[ SHOUTS INDISTINCTLY ]
>> IT'S NEVER BEEN EASY TO LIVE
HERE, SO THE PEOPLE WHO SETTLED
HERE AND STAYED ARE A FAIRLY
ROUGH-AND-READY BUNCH.
THEY'RE TOUGH AROUND HERE --
TOUGH, I TELLS YA.
HOW TOUGH?
WELL, IF YOU LIVE IN THESE PARTS
AND CALL YOURSELF A MAN, IT
MEANS YOU DRINK THIS STUFF --
RAKI.
>> IN CRETE, EVERYONE WHO OWNS
A VINEYARD IS ALLOWED TO MAKE
THEIR OWN RAKI.
BECAUSE RAKI IS ONE OF THE
STAPLES OF LIFE.
IT'S LEGAL MOONSHINE.
>> LEGAL MOONSHINE.
HERE'S HOW IT WORKS.
YOUR PRESSED GRAPES, WHICH
YOU'VE ALREADY MADE SOME PRETTY
ROUGH-TASTING WINE WITH, ARE
LEFT TO FERMENT FOR 40 DAYS.
THEN THEY'RE THROWN INTO A
COPPER CALDRON, MIXED WITH WATER
OR WINE, AND BROUGHT TO A
BOIL.
THE STUFF THAT'S DISTILLED
THROUGH THOSE PIPES -- PURE
LIGHTER FLUID, MY FRIENDS.
NOW, THAT BOILS IN HERE, IT
CONDENSES IN HERE, AND THE FINAL
PRODUCT COMES OUT...
STRIP PAINT OFF THE HULL OF A
BATTLE SHIP WILL BOIL THROUGH
YOU LIKE DRAIN CLEANER AND
BRILLO BITS.
>> TASTE? GOOD?
>> VINEYARD OWNERS ARE THE ONLY
VILLAGERS WHO CAN LEGALLY BREW
THIS STUFF, AND THEY TEND TO
BECOME, AS A RESULT, PRETTY
POPULAR WITH THE NEIGHBORS.
OKAY, I THINK IT'S RAKI TIME.
>> I'LL TAKE A GLASS ALSO.
THANK YOU.
>> IT ALL SEEMS HARMLESS ENOUGH.
ONE SHOT, MAYBE TWO, HAVE SOME
LAMB, WE'LL BE FINE.
I MEAN, THEY BREWED THIS STUFF
FOR US -- WE CAN'T SAY NO.
>> OH, THIS IS EXTRAORDINARILY
GOOD.
>> OH, YEAH, THAT'S GOOD.
THE RAKI WORKS QUICKLY, LIKE A
KICK IN THE HEAD FROM A VERY
LARGE, VERY MEAN ANIMAL.
AND THIS BEING GREECE, HERE
COMES THE FOOD AND LIVE MUSIC.
>> ARE WE DRUNK ENOUGH FOR
MUSIC YET?
>> YEAH, I THINK WE'RE DRUNK
ENOUGH FOR MUSIC, DON'T YOU?
>> LET'S GET DRUNKER.
[ MID-TEMPO MUSIC PLAYS ]
>> IT WILL NOT BE THE LAST TIME
THAT SUDDENLY THERE IS MUSIC.
>> [ SINGING IN GREEK ]
>> NOR WILL IT BE THE LAST TIME
THAT THE FOOD IS EXCELLENT, THE
LAMB IS HOT AND GOOD.
AND IT WILL NOT BE THE LAST TIME
THAT, IN ORDER TO ACCOMMODATE
THE EXPLICIT WISHES OF OUR
HOST, WE MUST DRINK, DRINK, AND
KEEP DRINKING WAY PAST THE POINT
WHERE GOOD SENSE BECOMES A
FAINTLY NAGGING MEMORY.
TO DO OTHERWISE WOULD BE AN
OFFENSE.
I THINK IT'S SAFE TO SAY WE'VE
ALL HAD ENOUGH RAKI.
[ GLASS SHATTERS ]
[ LAUGHTER ]
[ MUSIC ENDS ]
>> [ SPEAKING GREEK ]
>> SO FAR, NOT A BAD FIRST DAY
IN GREECE.
HERE WE GO.
IT'S GONNA GET LURID.
COMING UP NEXT, IT'S
BELCH-ERRIFIC.
[ SLOW-TEMPO MUSIC PLAYS ]
>> I FIND MYSELF IN THE MOUNTAIN
VILLAGE OF ANOGIA IN CENTRAL
CRETE, 20 MILES FROM THE CITY
WHERE I BEGAN MY TRIP.
IT'S A QUIET TOWN WITH A HISTORY
OF FEROCIOUS RESISTANCE
FIGHTING AND MARTYRDOM DURING
THE GERMAN OCCUPATION.
THEY SAY THE CRETAN DIET ALLOWS
YOU TO LIVE PAST 100, AND AT
FIRST GLANCE IT APPEARS EVERYONE
UP HERE ALREADY HAS.
[ ENGINE TURNS OVER ]
THAT'S IT -- IT LOOKS LIKE THE
PERFECT PLACE TO RELAX, AND,
TRUST ME, AFTER LAST NIGHT'S
RAKI-FUELED ADVENTURES, I NEED
A LITTLE PASTORAL INTERLUDE.
I'D TELL YOU ABOUT LAST NIGHT,
BUT I'D THROW UP IN MY MOUTH.
I WOKE UP FEELING FUNKY FRESH.
I LIKE THE COFFEE HERE.
IT'S CRUNCHY.
OHH.
WITH THE COFFEE AND THAT RAKI
STUFF, IT'S LIKE ROCKET FUEL.
I DRANK A LITTLE MORE OF
THAT THAN I WOULD HAVE LIKED
UNDER ORDINARY CIRCUMSTANCES.
[ SHUDDERS ]
MANAGED TO GET HOME WITHOUT
SPRAYING CHUNKS.
OH, YEAH, BYRON -- GOOD GUY.
GOOD MAN -- DON'T WANT TO SEE
HIM IN A SPEEDO.
WRITE HIM OUT OF THE BEACH
SCENE.
THEY LIKE LAMB HERE.
THE LAMB IS GOOD.
THE LIQUOR'S DEADLY.
AND HERE WE ARE IN THE TOWN OF
ANOGIA, FAMOUS FOR ITS...
LAMB?
THIS AREA OF CRETE IS KNOWN FOR
ITS UNFORGIVING TERRAIN AND
ITS TRADITIONAL WAY OF LIFE.
THERE'S A BUNCH OF SHEPHERDS
HERE WHO INVITED ME TO TAKE PART
IN ONE OF THEIR TRADITIONS.
THEY DO THINGS THE OLD WAY
AROUND HERE, AND DON'T BE
SUGGESTING OTHERWISE.
BYRON SAYS IT'S GONNA BE LIKE
A PICNIC.
THERE WILL BE, THIS BEING A
CENTURIES-OLD SHEPHERDING
CULTURE, LAMB INVOLVED, AND
APPARENTLY, GUNS.
SO I'M GUESSING SOMETHING IS
GONNA DIE REAL SOON, AND I'M
HOPING IT'S NOT ME.
OH, NO, I GOT A BAD FEELING.
I GOT A REALLY BAD FEELING ABOUT
MY FRIEND SOCKS OVER HERE.
MY DAUGHTER IS, LIKE, NEVER
GONNA FORGIVE ME.
DADDY'S A BAD MAN.
A BAD MAN.
HE THINKS HE'S JUST UP FOR A
HAIRCUT.
WHAT HE DOESN'T KNOW IS THAT
AFTER, SOMEONE'S GONNA SLIT
HIS THROAT AND YANK HIS GUTS
OUT.
WHY DO WE DO THIS?
WE'RE BAD PEOPLE, BAD PEOPLE.
[ REGIONAL MUSIC PLAYS ]
AS FOR THE MEN IN BLACK HERE, I
HAVEN'T QUITE FIGURED OUT WHAT
PART THEY PLAY IN ALL THIS, BUT
I'D BE LYING IF I DIDN'T TELL
YOU WHY I WAS CONCERNED.
THIS WEEK ON "DANCING WITH THE
STARS"...
>> [ SPEAKING GREEK ]
>> [ SPEAKING GREEK ]
FRESHLY RECOVERED FROM MY
ADVENTURES IN RAKI DRINKING
LAST NIGHT, THIS DOES NOT SEEM
LIKE A SENSIBLE CHOICE OF
BEVERAGE RIGHT NOW.
IT'S LIKE FREAKIN' VARNISH.
THIS, TO BE HONEST, IS A
CONCERN.
THIS IS [BLEEP] ROCKET FUEL,
DUDE.
>> YES, IT'S NOT THE VINTAGE
BORDEAUX WE LIKE.
NO, IT IS NOT.
>> CAN'T START THE PARTY
WITHOUT ANTI-FREEZE.
NOW THAT MY NEW FRIENDS HAVE
ENJOYED THEIR WINE, IT'S TIME
FOR THE FESTIVITIES TO COMMENCE.
[ MID-TEMPO MUSIC PLAYS ]
>> [ SHOUTING IN GREEK ]
>> IF ONLY OUR POOR FRIEND SOCKS
KNEW THAT THIS WAS GOING TO BE
HIS LAST HAIRCUT.
DON'T BE FOOLED BY THE EDITING,
WHICH MAKES THIS ALL LOOK NEAT
AND NICE.
SOCKS DID NOT GO GENTLE INTO
THAT GOOD NIGHT.
[ MUSIC CONTINUES ]
AFTER THE LAMB IS SKINNED, THEY
PREPARE A SPECIAL VARIANT ON
AL FRESCO SAUSAGE.
HERE WE GO.
IT'S GONNA GET LURID.
THE ANIMAL'S SMALL INTESTINE IS
WASHED AND BLOWN OUT TO LOOSEN
IT UP.
THEN IT'S STUFFED WITH A DICED
SPLEEN.
ALL I CAN SAY IS, SORRY, SOCKS,
THIS IS NO COUNTRY FOR OLD
SHEEP.
OUR FRIEND IS HACKED UP INTO
LARGE PIECES.
THE FRESH HUNKS ARE THEN
SKEWERED ON TO IRON STAKES.
SEASONING IS MINIMAL -- A LITTLE
SEA SALT.
WHAT, NOBODY'S HEARD OF, LIKE,
ROSEMARY OR GARLIC IN THIS
COUNTRY?
EVERYTHING'S PLACED AROUND THE
FIRE ON ALL SIDES -- A
PREPARATION OR CONFIGURATION
THEY CALL "OFTEL," DATING BACK
THOUSANDS OF YEARS.
[ MUSIC CONTINUES ]
THIS IS A PRIMARY URGE OF ALL
SENTIENT MALES -- THE
FASCINATION WITH MEAT SIZZLING
NEAR AN OPEN FIRE.
>> PRIMORDIAL.
THIS IS FROM BEFORE ANY OF US --
>> SHORTLY AFTER CLIMBING OUT OF
THE OOZE, WE STARTED BUILDING
FIRES AND DOING THIS TO MEAT.
>> THOSE LITTLE THINGS THEY HAVE
THERE ARE LIKE CAVES.
THEY'RE BUILT OF ROCKS, AND
THIS IS CAVEMAN FOOD.
[ MUSIC CONTINUES ]
>> AND, FINALLY, LUNCH IS
SERVED.
IS THERE ANYTHING MORE PRIMAL,
MORE TRADITIONAL, THAN MEAT
BURNING ON A STAKE AROUND AN
OPEN FLAME WITH THE FERMENTING
OF GRAPES OR OTHER FRUIT OR
VEGETABLE MATTER SO AS TO CAUSE
INEBRIATION AND THUS, ONE WOULD
HOPE, RELEASE FROM OUR DAILY
CARES?
>> THEY TELL ME, TONY, THEY'VE
BEEN EATING LIKE THIS SINCE THE
MINOANS.
THEY'VE BEEN DOING THE SHEEP
AND DOING THE MEAT EXACTLY THE
SAME WAY AND ALWAYS THE DANCING,
THE GUNS, THE MUSIC.
YOU GOT TO HAVE THAT.
>> HOW OFTEN DO THEY GET TO DO
THIS?
>> THEY TELL ME THEY DO IT ALL
THE TIME.
>> LIKE A WEEKEND BARBECUE.
>> IT'S A PARTY.
>> AND FINALLY THE SPECIAL
DISH -- INTESTINES STUFFED WITH
SPLEEN.
OH, THAT'S GREAT.
MM-HMM.
THAT AND THE KIDNEYS -- THE
BEST.
>> THIS LOOKS LIKE A CAVEMAN'S
MEAL, AND IT PROBABLY IS FROM
THE OLDEST DAYS.
>> WELL, THIS IS THE WAY TO EAT.
COME ON.
>> ALL THEY USE IS SALT AND
FIRE.
>> WHAT ELSE DO YOU NEED?
>> EXACTLY.
THEY DON'T LIKE TALKING ABOUT
IT.
THEY SAY, "EAT AND SHUT UP."
[ LAUGHS ]
>> [ SPEAKING GREEK ]
[ REGIONAL MUSIC PLAYING ]
>> AND NOTHING CAPS OFF A MANLY
CAVEMAN MEAL BETTER THAN --
WHOA, WHO INVITED
MICHAEL FLATLEY FROM
"RIVERDANCE"?
UH, TAXI! TAXI!
EVERYONE'S PACKING HEAT.
>> WHEN THEY GET DRUNK AND
HAPPY, THEY SHOOT.
>> AND IN AMERICA.
[ GUNSHOTS ]
>> THE FLESH OF ANIMALS, OPEN
FLAME, ALCOHOL, AND FIREARMS.
AND MEN DANCING TOGETHER.
COME ON.
IT'S LIKE "BURNING MAN," ONLY
MORE VIOLENT.
[ GUNSHOTS ]
>> [ SPEAKING GREEK ]
>> I DON'T KNOW WHAT KIND OF
PARTIES YOU GO TO, MY FRIEND,
BUT WHERE I COME FROM, SHORTLY
AFTER THE MEAT COURSE, IT'S
POP-POP, ***-***.
THERE'S SOMETHING EERILY
FAMILIAR IN THESE *** LADS
DANCING THEIR HEARTS OUT ON THE
RUTTED, HARDSCRABBLE MOUNTAIN --
THE HINT OF OLIVIA NEWTON-JOHN,
PERHAPS.
MAYBE IT'S THE RAKI, BUT IT'S
A KIND OF LINDA BLAIR, ARMED
VERSION OF "XANADU."
HAND ME THE SALT AND PASS THE
AMMUNITION.
[ GUNSHOTS ]
THIS IS GONNA BE ANOTHER LONG
DAY.
FROM THE MOUNTAINS, IT'S A
GREASY SLOPE.
I SHOULD HAVE YOU OUZO WITH
THIS, SHOULDN'T I?
>> THIS IS RAKI.
>> OH, THIS IS RAKI.
>> YEAH.
>> OH, MAN, I'M SCREWED.
>> THE GREEK DIET GATHERED A LOT
OF ATTENTION AFTER WORLD WAR
II.
HITLER'S ARMIES HAD STRIPPED
GREECE OF ITS FOOD TO FEED
GERMAN SOLDIERS THROUGHOUT
EUROPE.
AT LEAST A QUARTER MILLION
GREEKS DIED OF STARVATION.
BUT THREE YEARS LATER, AMERICAN
SCIENTISTS WHO ARRIVED TO HELP
REBUILD CRETE WERE STUNNED BY
WHAT THEY FOUND.
THOSE WHO'D SURVIVED WERE IN
EXCELLENT HEALTH, THRIVING ON
THE TINIEST PORTIONS OF LOCAL
GREENS AND LITTLE ELSE.
THE GREEK DIET HAS BEEN
PAINSTAKINGLY STUDIED SINCE.
SO, HERE, WHAT KIND OF GREENS?
>> IT'S CALLED RADDICI.
>> LIKE RADICCHIO?
>> YES, IT'S A RELATIVE OF OUR
DANDELION GREENS.
THEY EAT IT FOR HEALTH PURPOSES.
>> I'M NOTICING GREENS ON JUST
ABOUT EVERY TABLE WITH EVERY
MEAL.
IN SOME CASES, IF YOU'RE POOR,
IT'S THE MAJORITY OF THE MEAL.
GREENS, POTATOES.
>> A LOT OF PEOPLE FORAGE IN
THIS AREA.
LIKE MY NEIGHBOR THERE IN
THE BLACK, SHE GOES OUT EVERY
DAY, AND WHATEVER SHE FINDS, SHE
PUTS IN HER POT AND COMES UP
FOR LUNCH.
>> MORE THAN 1,000 TYPES OF
GREENS GROW ON THE HILLSIDES OF
CRETE, NOT JUST A PERFECT
SETTING BUT ALSO A PERFECT
SOURCE FOR A HOME-COOKED MEAL.
MANOLUS, A FORMER CHEF, IS
COOKING US LUNCH.
AN ALL-STAR SHOWCASE OF LOCAL
INGREDIENTS MADE WITH WHAT'S
AVAILABLE IN EVERYBODY'S
BACKYARD.
THE BARE ESSENTIALS, WHAT
ALLOWED COMMUNITIES TO SURVIVE
IN THE VERY HARDEST AND LEANEST
TIMES, AND YET, GOOD.
THE END RESULT OF A NEED FOR
RESOURCEFULNESS, OF MAKING THE
BEST WITH WHAT YOU HAVE, THE
SAME ENGINE THAT DROVE ALL GREAT
COOKING CULTURES THROUGHOUT
HISTORY.
AFTER THE GREENS COME THE
SNAILS, ALSO FRESHLY HARVESTED
FROM THE BACKYARD.
COOL THAT SUCKER DOWN FIRST AS
BOILING-HOT SNAIL GUTS CAN HURT.
UM.
OH, THAT IS GOOD.
I LIKE THAT.
[ SPEAKING GREEK ]
>> THESE ARE ONE OF THE OLDEST
CRETAN DISHES FROM OUR
GRANDMOTHER'S TIME.
>> THEN GREENS, AGAIN, SIMPLY
PREPARED WITH STEWED ONIONS AND
TOMATOES.
AND FINALLY THIS, A DISH I'VE
NEVER SEEN BEFORE, A DIP CALLED
STAKA, MADE FROM THE BUTTER FAT
OF GOAT'S MILK SLOWLY WARMED AND
THICKENED WITH FLOUR.
>> IT WILL BECOME LIKE A SOLID
MASS, AND THE SIDES WILL START
TO COME AWAY FROM THE SIDES OF
THE POT.
HE ALWAYS MAKES THE SIGN OF THE
CROSS WHEN HE'S MAKING THIS
DISH, SO HE HAS A GOOD RESULT.
>> IT'S TRICKY.
THIS BASICALLY VIOLATES ALL THE
BASIC RULES OF FRENCH
GASTRONOMY.
>> YES, THE FLOUR.
I WAS JUST GONNA SAY THAT, YEAH.
>> THIS IS VERY DIFFERENT FROM
WHAT I'D EXPECTED OF GREECE.
MADE FROM THE SIMPLEST OF
INGREDIENTS AND FROM THE MOST
HUMBLE OF FAMILY RECIPES.
MAYBE I HAD SUFFERED THE CRUEL
YOKE OF TOO MANY INDIFFERENTLY
PREPARED DISHES IN GREEK DINERS
IN NEW YORK AND HAD COME TO
EXPECT SOMETHING ELSE.
THIS, HOWEVER, WAS A STUNNINGLY
GOOD MEAL.
SO THESE ARE THE FAMOUS GREENS
THAT MAKE ALL THE GREEKS LIVE SO
LONG.
>> YES, ABSOLUTELY.
DEFINITELY THE GREENS.
>> [ SPEAKING GREEK ]
BRAVO!
>> GOOD FOOD IS WORTH A LITTLE
WORK.
AND FINALLY, THE STAKA DIP.
LOVE IT.
THAT'S OUTRAGEOUSLY GOOD.
AN UNLIKELY, RULE-BREAKING,
I-DON'T-GET-IT DISH WHICH WAS
THE REVELATION OF THE LOT.
ABSOLUTELY DELICIOUS.
>> [ SPEAKING GREEK ]
>> [ SPEAKING GREEK ]
GOOD MEAL.
I HADN'T EXPECTED THIS OF
GREECE, TO BE HONEST, NOT THESE
INGREDIENTS, NOT THIS SPECTRUM
OF FLAVORS.
IT'S GOOD, I LIKE IT, AND THE
FACT THAT IT'S SIMPLE,
STRAIGHTFORWARD FOOD PREPARED IN
A FAMILY SETTING COUNTS FOR A
LOT.
FROM THE MOUNTAINS TO THE SEA,
TO THE PICTURESQUE PORT CITY OF
CHANIA, KNOWN FOR ITS SEAFOOD,
OF COURSE, YANKED DAILY FROM THE
MEDITERRANEAN.
IN THESE WATERS YOU'LL FIND ONE
OF MY ABSOLUTE FAVORITE
INGREDIENTS ON EARTH -- SEA
URCHIN.
THAT WOULD BE THE SAME THING AS
"UNI" AT THE SUSHI BAR OR
"OURSIN" AT THE FRENCH
RESTAURANT.
I JUST CALL IT "DELICIOUS."
THIS GUY HAS BEEN A FISHERMAN
HERE IN CHANIA FOR MORE THAN 30
YEARS.
HIS PARTICULAR AREA OF
EXPERTISE -- FINDING MY SPIKY
LITTLE FRIENDS.
>> THAT'S IT.
OH, YOU DRINK BEER, HUH?
>> UH, YEAH.
HOW ARE YOU?
>> YOU WANT TO TRY TO EAT THE
SEA URCHIN WITH A LEMON?
>> YEAH, I LIKE IT.
>> TO OPEN, HUH?
>> OH, THEY'RE BEAUTIFUL.
>> YOU SEE THE MILK NOW?
>> YEAH.
>> THIS IS TO MAKE BABY.
>> TO MAKE BABIES.
OH, THIS IS THE BEST TIME.
>> DELICIOUS.
>> OH, THEY'RE REALLY GOOD.
>> AHA.
THE RESTAURANT, YOU PUT ALL
THE EGGS THERE TOGETHER, OIL AND
LEMON.
>> NICE. THAT'S IT.
>> AND PUT THE HOT BREAD.
AH! DELICIOUS.
>> THAT SOUNDS GOOD.
LET'S...DO THAT.
YES, LET'S DO THAT.
WHY, WHAT DO WE HAVE HERE?
THE, OH, SO CONVENIENTLY LOCATED
SEASIDE TAVERN.
ATANTE'S BEEN SUPPLYING SEAFOOD
HERE FOR DECADES.
I SMELL COMP.
>> I SHOW YOU.
LIKE THAT.
AND DO IT LIKE THAT.
>> OH, YEAH. THAT'S PRETTY.
OH, NOW THAT'S GOOD.
>> THE OIL IS NUMBER ONE OF THE
PEOPLE.
THE OIL -- BREAD AND OIL.
NO BUTTER.
>> ENOUGH TALK -- TIME TO EAT.
AND WE DIG IN WITH SOME GRILLED
OCTOPUS, FRIED CUTTLEFISH
SHEEP-MILK CHEESE ON TOMATO
PUREE AND BARLEY RUSK.
BUT FOR ME, IT'S ALL ABOUT
THAT AMAZING SEA URCHIN ROE --
LOTS OF SEA URCHIN ROE --
SWIMMING IN LOCAL OLIVE OIL,
SLATHERED ON BREAD, SMEARED ON
EVERYTHING.
OH, YEAH.
>> TAKE THESE PIECES, PUT HERE.
>> AH, RIGHT IN THE
SEA URCHIN-INFUSED OLIVE OIL?
OH, IT'S FANTASTIC.
VERY SOFT, VERY TENDER.
I SHOULD HAVE OUZO WITH THIS,
SHOULDN'T I?
>> YEAH. THIS IS RAKI.
>> THIS IS RAKI?
OH, MAN, I'M SCREWED.
>> YAMAS.
>> YAMAS.
>> YAMAS.
>> KISSING THE NIGHT GOODBYE.
>> MERRY CHRISTMAS.
>> YEAH, IT WILL BE SOON ENOUGH,
BY THE TIME I SOBER UP.
THE EDIBLE ONSLAUGHT CONTINUES.
OH, WHAT'S THAT?
SHRIMP STEWED WITH FETA CHEESE,
GRILLED FISH, FRESH SQUID WITH
LEMON, GRAPE LEAVES STUFFED WITH
RICE, DILL, AND ONION, AND,
FINALLY, THE INEVITABLE GREENS.
AND OF COURSE MUSIC, OF A KIND.
>> [ SINGING IN GREEK ]
[ CELLPHONE RINGS ]
YEAH?
>> YOU KNOW WHAT'S REALLY GREAT
IN THIS SHOW?
IT'S THAT I KEEP DRINKING RAKI.
WE'RE SEVEN HOURS AHEAD HERE.
WHEN I WAKE UP IN THE MORNING TO
GO OUT TO WORK, NOBODY IN
NEW YORK IS AWAKE.
SO WHAT I DO IS I DRINK AROUND
10 OR 12 OR 14 SHOTS OF THIS
STUFF AND SOME OF THAT
BATTERY-ACID WINE, AND THEN I GO
BACK TO MY ROOM AND I DO ALL MY
E-MAILING AND BUSINESS.
LET'S PUT IT THIS WAY -- I MADE
SOME VERY INAPPROPRIATE
SUGGESTIONS TO SOME COLLEAGUES.
>> NO GREEK, HUH?
>> [ SPEAKING GREEK ]
>> TELLY SAVALAS, HE SAY, "IF
YOU WANT TO SPEAK ENGLISH, YOU
MUST TO THINK ENGLISH TO SPEAK
ENGLISH.
BUT IF YOU WANT TO SPEAK WITH
GOD, YOU MUST LEARN GREEK."
>> OH, WELL...
TELLY'S SPEAKING TO GOD NOW.
>> TELLY SAVALAS SAY.
>> YOU HAVE TO LOVE A PLACE
WHERE OF ALL THE DEITIES PAST
AND PRESENT WHO LOOKED OVER THIS
LAND, IT'S TELLY SAVALAS, THE
SPIRIT OF KOJAK, WHOSE NAME IS
INVOKED.
THE FIRST HALF OF MY LITTLE
ODYSSEY, MY JOURNEY THROUGH
CRETE COMES TO A CLOSE.
FROM THE BUSTLING CITY OF
HERAKLION, UP THE MOUNTAINS OF
ANOGIA, TO THE SEAPORT OF
CHANIA.
BUT AS THEY SAY IN CLICHé LAND,
IT'S ONLY THE BEGINNING.
NOT QUITE THE GODS OF
MT. OLYMPUS.
WHO ARE THESE GUYS?
>> THESE ARE ALL MAD GREEKS.
THEY DIDN'T HAVE A SINGLE MOMENT
OF SANITY.
LOOK AT THEM ALL.
>> LOOKS LIKE CONGRESS.
>> OF ALL THE GREEK ISLANDS,
CRETE IS WIDELY BELIEVED TO BE
THE MOST DIVERSE AS WELL AS THE
MOST RUGGED.
SO ON THE ONE DAY IT SEEMS WHERE
I WON'T HAVE TO TAKE PART IN A
SHEEP KILLING, THE
INDISCRIMINATE DISCHARGE OF
FIREARMS, THE RITUAL DRINKING OF
PAINT THINNER, OR AN HOMAGE TO
DENEY TERRIO AND THE
"SOLID GOLD" DANCERS, I BELIEVE
I WILL JUST RELAX AND ENJOY A
SIMPLE YET DECADENT INDIGENOUS
BREAKFAST.
WHAT I FIND BEHIND THE SCENES OF
THE CHANIA CAFé IS PRETTY
EXTRAORDINARY.
SO, WHAT ARE WE WATCHING HERE?
WHAT IS THIS PRODUCT?
IT LOOKS LIKE PHYLLO, BUT IT'S
NOT.
>> IT IS PHYLLO.
PHYLLO JUST MEANS "A LEAF."
>> EVERY MORNING FOR YEARS IN AN
UNMARKED BAKERY TUCKED AWAY IN
AN ALLEY, YANISE HAS MADE THIS
ONE PASTRY DISH, AND ONLY THIS
ONE PASTRY DISH.
HE MAKES IT BY HAND FROM
SCRATCH.
A MUCH-LOVED BREAKFAST STAPLE
PARTICULAR TO ZAKYNTHOS.
IT'S CALLED BOUGATSA.
MADE WITH HANDMADE FRESH PHYLLO
DOUGH, FLOUR, WATER, AND OIL,
METICULOUSLY ROLLED AS THIN AS
POSSIBLE.
GOSSAMER-THIN, FILAMENT-THIN --
THIN ENOUGH TO SEE THROUGH.
>> IT'S ONLY EATEN FRESH, BY THE
WAY.
THEY MAKE IT, THEY SERVE IT.
THEY MAKE IT, THEY SERVE IT.
>> FEW GREEK BAKERS STILL MAKE
THEIR PHYLLO BY HAND, BUT YANISE
STUBBORNLY PERSISTS.
WHEN THE PASTRY'S THIN ENOUGH
AND JUST RIGHT, IT'S STUFFED
WITH A RICH CHEESE CALLED
MIZITHRA, A GREEK-STYLE SALTIER
VERSION OF RICOTTA.
THEN IT'S FOLDED.
THAT'S A POWERFUL BREAKFAST
FOOD, MY FRIEND.
>> OH, YES, IT IS.
WELL, IT'S THE BREAKFAST OF
CHAMPIONS.
>> ANOTHER TRAY LOADED INTO THE
OVEN, ONE OF THOUSANDS HE'S
PREPARED IN A LIFETIME.
ONE MAN, ONE SPECIALTY, EVERY
MORNING.
AS WE WAIT FOR A BATCH TO COOK,
I NOTICE SOME ECCENTRIC DETAILS
ABOUT THE PLACE.
>> WHO ARE THESE GUYS?
>> THESE ARE ALL MAD.
EACH ONE IS CERTIFIABLY MAD.
CRAZY.
>> YOU KNOW, I HOPE TO BE IN
THAT PANTHEON OF HEROES ONE DAY,
BY THE WAY.
>> YEAH, WELL, YOU'LL HAVE TO
WORK VERY HARD BECAUSE THEY
DIDN'T HAVE A SINGLE MOMENT OF
SANITY.
LOOK AT THEM ALL.
THEY LOOK LIKE CHARACTERS FROM A
FREAK SHOW.
>> IT LOOKS LIKE CONGRESS.
>> YES, THEY DO.
YES, THE GOVERNMENT...
>> WHAT'S THE CANDY NEXT TO THE
CIGARETTES?
>> HE SAYS, "DON'T SMOKE BUT
SUCK ON CANDY."
I GUESS HIS GRANDFATHER IS A
DENTIST.
>> CIGARETTE PACKED WITH THE
TINY LITTLE BOTTLE OF LIQUOR.
THE CIGARETTE AND THE HYPODERMIC
ALL IN THE SAME PACK.
>> HE EQUATES CIGARETTES WITH
NARCOTICS.
>> SORT OF A COLLAGE OF THE
FIRST 30 YEARS OF MY LIFE.
>> [ LAUGHS ]
>> AS EACH BATCH COMES OUT OF
THE OVEN, IT'S RUN RIGHT AROUND
THE CORNER TO THE STOREFRONT
CAFé, WHERE I GET TO SHOVE IT IN
MY FACE, STILL PIPING HOT.
LAST BATCH COMES OUT AT 1:00
P.M.
AFTER THAT, THEY CLOSE.
IT'S DELICIOUS.
THIS IS LIKE A FUNDAMENTAL
BREAKFAST ITEM?
>> ABSOLUTELY.
THERE'S STILL BREAKFAST.
IT IS BREAD, HONEY, AND BUTTER,
AND THEN IF YOU CAN AFFORD A BIT
MORE MONEY, YOU EAT THIS.
>> UH-HUH.
SO, WHAT'S NEXT ON THE AGENDA,
BYRON?
>> I WAS THINKING MAYBE WE
SHOULD GO TO ZAKYNTHOS.
>> THAT IS A SMALLER ISLAND?
>> THEY'RE CALLED THE IONIAN
ISLANDS.
THE IONIANS WERE THE ORIGINAL
GREEKS.
THAT'S WHERE THE WORD "GREEK"
AND "GREECE" COMES FROM.
>> OFF WE GO.
>> ONE ISLAND DOWN, ONE MORE TO
GO.
THERE ARE 1,400 ISLANDS IN
GREECE.
ONCE ON THE WATER AGAIN, I BEGIN
TO GET A SENSE OF HOW EXPANSIVE
THE KNOWN WORLD MUST HAVE
SEEMED IN ANCIENT TIMES, HOW
VULNERABLE EACH ISLAND WAS TO
INVASION AND OUTSIDE INFLUENCE,
AND, OF COURSE, HOW BEAUTIFUL.
INVASION AND OUTSIDE INFLUENCE
ARE OFTEN GOOD THINGS, FOR FOOD
ANYWAY, AND IN THE CASE OF
ZAKYNTHOS, PART OF THE NORTHERN
IONIAN GROUP OF ISLANDS AND
FABLED DESTINATION IN HOMER'S
"ODYSSEY," THAT'S PARTICULARLY
TRUE.
I'M CONFUSED.
IS THERE SUCH A THING AS A REAL
GREEK, AND WHO ARE THE GREEKS
ANYWAY, AND WHERE DID THEY COME
FROM ORIGINALLY?
>> THE REAL GREEKS ARE THIS
ENTIRE AREA, THE WHOLE -- THE
HELLENIC WORLD, THE MINOAN, THE
IONIANS, THE DORIANS, THE
DIFFERENT POPULATIONS FROM
AROUND.
>> SO WAIT A MINUTE.
SO TO BE GREEK DOES NOT REFER TO
ANY SPECIFIC ETHNICITY.
>> TO BE GREEK WAS TO BE PART OF
THIS LAND AND TO BE PART OF THE
EMPIRES AND KINGDOMS.
THE IDEA WAS THAT THEY HAD A
CULTURE, THEY HAD THE GODS AND
THEY HAD THE LANGUAGE, AND THEY
REALLY CONQUERED THE LAND WITH
THEIR CULTURE, WITH THEIR IDEAS,
WITH THEIR PHILOSOPHIES.
>> AND, OF COURSE, THE ANCIENT
JOURNEY THAT STARTED THIS ALL.
YOU MENTIONED ODYSSEUS'
TERRITORY.
WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY THAT?
>> ODYSSEUS COMES UP FROM AN
ISLAND THAT'S NOT FAR FROM HERE.
ODYSSEUS WAS KNOWN FOR STOPPING
ALL THESE ISLANDS.
AND ACCORDING TO HOMER, WHAT HE
DID WAS HE JUST WENT ON A TRIP.
10 YEARS -- IT TOOK 10 YEARS
FOR HIM TO COME HOME.
THE BIG FREEDOM MONGERS.
THE GREEK FLAG HAS SEVEN BARS.
EACH ONE IS FOR ONE OF THE
LETTERS OF THE WORD FOR
"FREEDOM."
NOTHING CAN STOP A GREEK FROM
DOING WHAT HE OR SHE WANTS TO
DO.
>> AND YET TRAGEDY IS SUCH
AN ENORMOUS PART OF THE GREEK
MENTALITY AND HISTORY AND
CULTURE.
>> IF YOU'RE GONNA SUFFER, YOU
HAVE TO SUFFER MAGNIFICENTLY.
>> YOU'RE ALL-OR-NOTHING PEOPLE.
>> ABSOLUTELY SO.
>> IT'S EITHER THE WORST
POSSIBLE THING OR THE BEST
POSSIBLE THING.
>> YOU WAKE UP IN THE MORNING,
AND THAT DAY COULD BE YOUR LAST.
WE ALL KNOW THIS.
THIS IS NO MYTH.
IT HAPPENS.
SO THAT DAY, YOU HAVE TO LIVE TO
THE FULL, TO THE VERY END OF THE
DAY.
>> THOUSANDS OF YEARS LATER, THE
EPIC TALE AND GORGEOUS BACKDROP
OF THE ORIGINAL ODYSSEY STILL
SEEMS TO BLEED OVER INTO THE
PRESENT, PULLING PEOPLE EVER
CLOSER TO THE HORIZON.
I STARTED TO FORGET EXACTLY WHY
I WAS RELUCTANT TO COME TO
GREECE.
I STEAL A MOMENT TO SOAK IN
THE AIR AND GET SOME REST
BECAUSE TOMORROW, APPARENTLY,
I'LL BE NEEDING IT.
DEAR DIARY, I WOKE UP ANGRY
TODAY.
>> MY TRIP TO THE GREEK ISLANDS
HAS TAKEN ME FROM CRETE TO
ZAKYNTHOS, AN ISLAND WITH A
HEAVY VENETIAN INFLUENCE.
IF YOU'RE GONNA GET INVADED
AND SUBJUGATED, YOU COULD
PROBABLY HAVE DONE A LOT WORSE
THAN HAVE IT BE BY THE
VENETIANS.
THEY TENDED TO LEAVE GOOD
BUILDINGS AND GOOD FOOD BEHIND.
YOU'D THINK IT WOULD BE A GOOD
PLACE TO RELAX AND HAVE A NICE,
QUIET MEAL, BUT, NO.
THE PRODUCERS THOUGHT, "WHY NOT
GIVE TONY A LOADED SHOTGUN AND
SEND HIM OUT ON A QUAIL HUNT
WITH PADONOS HERE?"
WHAT'S YOUR DOG'S NAME?
>> CAESAR.
>> CAESAR.
[ BELL JINGLING ]
LIKE LEE HARVEY OSWALD.
SAME POSE.
WHY MORE GUNS?
WHY AM I STALKING THE
COUNTRYSIDE MASSACRING
SLOW-MOVING POULTRY PRODUCTS?
WHO COMES UP WITH THESE IDEAS?
WHEN DID TED NUGENT COME ON
STAFF?
DEAR DIARY, I WOKE UP ANGRY
TODAY.
IT TURNS OUT THEY'RE KNOWN FOR
BEING AVID HUNTERS ON THIS SMALL
ISLAND AND TURNING WHATEVER THEY
FIND INTO GOOD FOOD.
SO, SINCE I'VE ALREADY
WITNESSED THE BUTCHERING OF A
CUTE LITTLE LAMB, MY PRODUCERS
ASSUME I'D HAVE NO PROBLEM
OFFING A BIRD OR TWO.
>> [ WHISTLING ]
[ BELL JINGLING ]
>> OH-HO.
OUR DOG CAESAR HAS CLEARLY
CAUGHT THE SCENT OF A PREVIOUSLY
STUNNED AND STASHED QUAIL.
[ GUNSHOT ]
OOPS.
>> YOU HAVE TO BE VERY CAREFUL
BECAUSE THERE'S A PLANT IN
GREECE -- IF IT'S CONSUMED FROM
THE QUAILS, IT'S LETHAL FOR
HUMAN BEINGS TO EAT THE QUAIL
THEN.
>> OH.
HOW DO YOU KNOW WHAT THEY ATE?
>> YOU DON'T.
>> REALLY?
>> YOU JUST RISK IT.
DON'T WORRY.
>> OH, THEY'VE BEEN EATING
McDONALD'S AND...
>> NO, NO, NO.
[ BELL JINGLES ]
>> OH, YEAH.
AT A MORAL CROSSROADS LIKE THIS,
I ASK MYSELF, "WHAT WOULD JESUS
DO?"
BEFORE BLOWING A LITTLE BIRDIE
IN A CHOPPED GYRO WEED AT
POINT-BLANK RANGE.
>> WELL DONE.
>> AH, LIVING AND THE DEAD
TOGETHER...
STUFFED INTO ONE BIG HEAP.
A THICK MIASMA OF SHAME HANGS
OVER YOUR OBLIGING HUNTERS AS WE
HEAD BACK TO TOWN.
FRESH FROM THE HUNT, AN APPALLED
PADONOS AND I HEAD TO THE
MEDIEVAL TOWN OF KILIOMENOS,
WHERE THEY SPECIALIZE IN THE
TRADITIONAL DISHES OF ZAKYNTHOS.
ON THE MENU, DISHES LIKE LAMB
SPLEEN STUFFED WITH PUNGENT
LOCAL CHEESE, FLAVORED WITH
CINNAMON AND CLOVE.
A BUNDLE OF LAMB GUTS WRAPPED IN
CHITLINS AND STEWED IN SPICY
TOMATO SAUCE.
AND THE SIGNATURE DISH OF THE
RESTAURANT, BUT FIRST THEY'VE
GOT TO CATCH IT.
I'M A LITTLE SURPRISED BY THE
WAY MY PRODUCER DIDN'T HAVE ME
OFF ANY RABBITS ON THE SHOW, SO
EAGER IS HE TO HORRIFY AND
OFFEND MY VIEWERS WITH MY CASUAL
AND SENSELESS CRUELTY TO CUTE,
FURRY, AND FEATHERED CREATURES.
A ZAKYNTHOS FAVORITE -- RABBIT
BRAISED IN ONIONS, SPICES, AND
WINE.
AND HERE COMES THE QUAIL.
NOT MY POOR SHREDDED QUAIL, OF
COURSE.
I SIT DOWN FOR SOME OF THE
CURIOUSLY ITALIAN-INFLUENCED
SPECIALTIES OF ZAKYNTHOS.
OH, WHAT HAVE WE GOT HERE?
>> THE SPLEEN.
>> SPLEEN -- OH.
THAT'S A LOT OF SPLEEN.
SHEEP INNARDS -- GOOD -- AND
RABBIT STEW -- ALWAYS A FAVORITE
OF MINE.
OH, NICE.
>> THAT'S A LOCAL SOUP.
>> OH, THAT'S GOOD.
SOME LOCAL WINE THAT'S ACTUALLY
EXCELLENT -- BEST I'VE HAD IN
GREECE BY FAR.
PERFECT COMPLEMENT TO THE FOOD.
OH, YEAH.
THAT'S GOOD RABBIT.
IT'S DELICIOUS.
AND THE QUAIL, GRILLED AND THEN
ROASTED WHILE BASTED WITH LEMON.
NEVER AGAIN WITH QUAIL HUNTING
FOR ME AND ESPECIALLY NOT SO
NEAR A NICE DOGGIE.
I CAN'T TELL YOU HOW TERRIFIED I
WAS THAT I'D SHOOT THE DOG BY
MISTAKE.
THE QUAIL IS GOOD, BUT THE
RABBIT IS SUPERB.
WE SHOULD HAVE LET THE BIRDIES
LIVE.
IT'S GOOD.
I DON'T SEE THE ONE I SHOT HERE.
>> THE ONE YOU SHOT WAS LEFT
BEHIND.
WE HAD TO LEAVE SOMETHING AS
RESPECT TO THE NATURE.
>> WHAT HAPPENED?
I THOUGHT THAT WAS A WELL-SHOT
BIRD.
ONE TINY LITTLE PELLET HIT ITS
HEAD.
HE WAS OTHERWISE FLAWLESS.
>> YOU COULD ONLY RECOGNIZE IT
BY SOME LITTLE PIECES THAT
REMAIN FROM THE SOD.
[ LAUGHTER ]
>> HAMBURGER.
>> YAMAS.
>> YAMAS.
SADLY, I CAN'T LINGER TO MAKE
AMENDS.
I HAVE AN IMPORTANT BUSINESS TO
ATTEND TO, LIKE WORKING ON MY
TAN.
FOR OUR FINAL STOP ON MY
MINIATURE ODYSSEY, MY
ANIMAL-TERRORIZING HAUNT THROUGH
THE ISLANDS, MY PHILOSOPHER
SIDEKICK HAS ARRANGED FOR ME TO
VISIT A BEACH ACCESSIBLE ONLY BY
BOAT.
"NO RESERVATIONS" NOW WITH 10%
MORE FROLICKING.
[ ACCORDION PLAYING ]
>> THE ISLAND OF ZAKYNTHOS,
KNOWN FOR ITS DRAMATIC AND
DANGEROUS COASTLINE.
THROUGHOUT THE COASTLINE, YOU'LL
FIND SMALL BEACH COVES ONLY
ACCESSIBLE BY BOAT.
THE SMUGGLING TRADITION BEING
SOMETHING OF A CALLING IN
MUCH OF THESE PARTS, IT CAME AS
NO SURPRISE WHEN, ACCORDING TO
LOCAL LORE, A BOAT FROM ITALY
LOADED WITH CIGARETTES GOT SWEPT
UP IN A STORM AND NEVER QUITE
MADE IT OUT.
THE SURROUNDING COMMUNITY BECAME
LIFELONG FANS OF THE SMOOTH,
COOL TASTE OF LARAMIE, AND IT
HAS BEEN KNOWN EVER SINCE AS
SHIPWRECK BEACH.
IT'S A FAVORITE PLACE FOR
FAMILY PICNICS.
SO WE HIRED A FAMILY.
[ ACCORDION PLAYING ]
AND LOOK -- WHAT AN AMAZING
YET CINEMATIC COINCIDENCE.
AMONG THE MEMBERS OF THIS
TALENTED EXTENDED FAMILY ARE
APPARENTLY A TROUPE OF
MUSICIANS!
CAN I HAVE ONE MEAL ON THIS
ISLAND, BY THE WAY, WITHOUT
SOMEBODY IN MY FACE SINGING AND
DANCING?
ALL RIGHT. SHOWTIME, TONE.
PULL YOURSELF TOGETHER.
BE A PROFESSIONAL.
THESE VERY NICE PEOPLE ARE
WORKING THEIR *** OFF FOR YOU.
SHOW A LITTLE GRATITUDE, AND,
LOOK, THERE'S FOOD!
ON THE MENU, GRILLED OCTOPUS AND
A SPECIALTY ALMOST ANYWHERE
WHERE PEOPLE OF MODEST MEANS
LIVE BY THE SEA -- A FISHERMAN'S
STEW MADE OF CHEAP, BONY, BUT
READILY AVAILABLE FISHES,
TOMATOES, AND ONION.
THE ITALIANS HAVE CHIPINO, THE
PORTUGUESE, ZARZUELA, THE
FRENCH, BOUILLABAISSE.
THERE'S ONE VERSION OR ANOTHER
OF THIS KIND OF THING IN EVERY
GREAT COOKING CULTURE, AND THIS
IS A GOOD ONE.
THESE ARE THE SORT OF DISHES
THAT WE LOVE TO BE ABLE TO GET
AWAY WITH SERVING IN THE
RESTAURANT.
SO I LOVE THIS.
THIS IS A FANTASTIC MEAL.
>> YOU CAN'T CHEAT ON A MEAL
LIKE THIS.
THIS FISH WAS CAUGHT THREE HOURS
AGO.
>> MY CHAMPION OF ALL THINGS
GREEK, PASSIONATE,
KNOWLEDGEABLE, AND PATIENT WITH
MY OCCASIONAL OUTBREAK OF
CYNICISM AND UNPLEASANTNESS.
POOR BYRON.
I CAME TO GREECE WITH LESS THAN
ZERO EXPECTATIONS.
I FOUND THE SEAFOOD SERVED IN
PRISTINE CONDITION, THE LAMB --
I MEAN, COULDN'T BE FRESHER,
YOUNG.
THE CHEESE WAS UNBELIEVABLE.
[ SIZZLING ]
I HAVE TO SAY, WHEN YOU FINALLY
GET HERE AND GET THE BEST
INGREDIENTS PREPARED WITHOUT
NONSENSE OR PRETENSE BY PEOPLE
WHO CARE, IT'S REALLY GOOD.
THAT'S REAL GOOD.
WHICH PROMPTS THE QUESTION...
IS TRADITIONAL GREEK CUISINE
GONNA CHANGE?
>> PART OF THE THING I THINK
IS THAT PEOPLE ALWAYS EAT WHAT
THEY ATE WHEN THEY WERE KIDS.
WHEN YOU WERE GROWING UP, WHAT
YOU ATE IS WHAT YOU WILL ALWAYS
LOVE.
>> SO WHAT MAKES GREEK FOOD
REALLY TRULY GREAT IS GONNA KEEP
IT THE SAME.
>> SINCERELY, IT'S THE
FRESHNESS, IT'S THE OLIVE OIL,
AND IT'S THE SEA, AND I THINK
IT'S THE WHOLE ATMOSPHERE.
EATING ON THIS BEACH IS NOT
GONNA BE THE SAME AS EATING AT A
DINER ON 42nd STREET.
THERE'S NO WAY YOU CAN COMPARE
THE FEELING.
[ ACCORDION PLAYING ]
>> OH, GOD, HERE IT COMES.
OF COURSE.
IS THIS HEART WARMING
OR WHAT?
>> ♪ LA LA LA LA LA LA ♪
[ SPEAKING GREEK ]
>> YOU KNOW, I WAS JUST
FINISHING MY FEEDER.
SUDDENLY, A SPONTANEOUS BOUT
OF FROLICKING SWEPT OVER THE
LAND.
FROLIC, DAMN, YOU!
FROLIC LIKE YOU'VE NEVER
FROLICKED BEFORE!
PICK UP THE PACE, MOM.
KIDS, KEEP UP.
WHAT DID THE NICE PRODUCER TELL
YOU?
NO DANCE, NO MONEY.
SHAKE THAT THING, SISTER, OR
WE'LL LEAVE YOU ON THIS DAMN
BEACH, AND YOU AND PEEWEE CAN
SWIM HOME.
OKAY, ENOUGH SNARK.
WE'VE HAD QUITE ENOUGH SNARK AND
WAY TOO MUCH RAKI ON THIS
EPISODE, I KNOW.
BUT AM I GLAD I CAME TO GREECE?
HELL, YEAH.
HAVE I CHANGED MY MISCONCEPTIONS
OF GREEK FOOD?
SURE.
IN FEW OTHER PLACES DOES
ANCIENT HISTORY BEAR SO DIRECTLY
ON WHAT'S ON THE PLATE.
THE PRIDE AND THE STUBBORNNESS
WITH WHICH THE GREEKS CLING TO
THE BEST OF THE OLD WORLD POINTS
UP THE BEST IN ALL OF US.
AN EPIC HISTORY OF INVASION,
OCCUPATION, DEPRIVATION, A
POWERFUL WANDERLUST TEMPERED BY
A FIERCE NEED TO RETURN HOME.
IT'S THIS UNCOMPROMISING WILL,
THIS SOMETIMES INCOMPREHENSIBLE
STRENGTH AND OBSTINACY THAT
YEARS LATER GIVES US THIS --
AN UNBROKEN CIRCLE OF TRADITION,
FAMILY, AND FOOD, AND LIKE
ULYSSES, ONE'S EYES ALWAYS ON
THE SEA.
-- Captions by VITAC -- www.vitac.com
CAPTIONS PAID FOR BY THE TRAVEL CHANNEL, L.L.C.
[ CHEERS AND APPLAUSE ]