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Traveling to Crimea? Don't try landing in Simferopol, if your plane didn't originate
in Russia. Your flight is almost sure to be canceled.
If you come by train, expect to be searched by pro-Russian militia. If you want to rally
in favor of Ukraine's West-leaning interim government, expect to be surrounded by pushy
pro-Russians. Breakneck preparations are ramping up for
a referendum on Sunday -- to be held largely in secret -- and the grip of security measures
is tightening around Simferopol. When Crimeans go to vote, they will have choose
between two alternatives: Be an autonomous state, or join the Russian Federation.
But in light of recent developments, the referendum would seem like an afterthought of what is
a steadily approaching reality. The new pro-Russian government on the peninsula
in Ukraine's southeast declared independence Tuesday. Its representatives have already
approached Moscow with their idea of joining, and Russian leaders have greeted them with
open arms. Russian-speaking troops wearing no identifying
insignia have Crimea firmly under their control. Many believe that they belong at least in
part to Russia's military, something Moscow has adamantly denied.
The well-armed men have effectively isolated the peninsula with an ethnic Russian majority
from the rest of Ukraine. There has been an international outcry over
Crimea's apparent rash push toward Russian annexation, and warnings that the referendum
won't be recognized. Ukraine's interim government, backed by the
United States and European powers, has called it illegitimate.
Welcome to Crimea Passengers disembarking in Simferopol Tuesday
saw pro-Russian militiamen wearing red armbands that proclaim their allegiance to "the autonomous
republic of Crimea." The men helped police search arrivals, sometimes
shoving them to where they want them to stand. "We are looking for people who are bringing
in weapons. For security. From Ukraine. From Maidan," a guard explained, referring to Keiv's
Independence Square, the epicenter of protests that toppled Viktor Yanukovych, the pro-Russian
former president of Ukraine. A saleswoman offered new cell phone cards
to new arrivals -- also for security reasons, she explained.
"The fascist who wants to be president, he wants to bring his armed men here from Kiev,
to disrupt our referendum. He doesn't want to negotiate, he just wants to shoot," she
said. A passenger arriving from Russia at the airport
seemed confident about how the vote will go. "Crimea is Russia!" he exclaimed, as he exited.