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Wecome to part 2 of "Making a Dirndl". This as an exciting day because I've taken my time to pre-shrink
my material and get it ironed and all ready
and it's all going to come together today as
we start working on her bodice. And I can't wait to get started!
This is the dress that we're going to start with today
and wer're just going to show how to make the front of the bodice,
in this Part 2, and in Part 3, how to do the back.
This is the pattern that I used for the
bodice for my granddaughter's dress last year.
It was once piece for the entire front
and it had a zipper in the middle
and I sewed some rick-rack, flowered trim
and piping here
to attach these little hooks and some lacing.
For this dress,
I started with this pattern piece
and I decided right along this line, that I wanted to make it into 2 separate pieces
with a seam
I took my "doctor's examing table paper" and I layed it over my original pattern, and I made
a seam line right where that
line was
and added seam allowance. Then I took it again
and I made another seam line and added seam allowance for the other piece.
So, these are the two pieces that are going to make the side bodice. I added
an inch of inseam here, and an extra inch and a half at the bottom
and made it a little wider on the shoulders.
So that's our new bodice pieces.
Many dirndl patterns call for a seam allowance along this line,
and if you see this little purple extra piece that I have right here,
If I was to sew piping here, then I would leave that seam allowance,
but in this particular pattern, we've removed all the seam allowance
on all the neckline and all the armhole
pieces. So this little purple extra would be
gone. So, if you have a pattern
that calls for piping and has a seam allowance, you need to remove that if you're going to
finish up the edges with double fold bias tape.
and that's how
I'm going to do my edges today.
If you've made a dirndl before using piping, you might want to try this way
because this saves a little fabric. Because as you can see when I cut mine out
this is how wide I'm cutting it, whereas if you're using piping, you're going to have this extra width
on all the pieces, and the other reason is I think it's a little easier to finish
off the edge with double fold bias tape.
All patterns come with a "straight of grain" line, such as you see here- and you need
to follow that
when you're cutting out
I'll show you an example of
a dress where we did a little something different with that.
Following the "straight of grain" might not seem like a big deal, but if you're going to do stripes
it becomes part of the design.
Here you see the vertical lines with the "straight of grain", and the stripes going going up and down,
and then I have them sideways on the
side seams
and it matches up right here. So take your time, if you're going to do that. Match your
stripes up. And it's very pleasant to look at when you see everything matching up.
This is going to be a lined bodice, so we're going to cut two
of this piece of the regular bodice fabric
and two of the lining. And cut two of this and two of lining also
These are the pieces we'll have for our
front bodice and bodice lining
So you can lay them all out,
Instead of doing piping here, I've decided to do black rick-rack,
and I think that'll be kind of fun.
It can be pretty challenging to get your rick-rack to lay down flat, pinning it,
and aiming exactly right.
So I decided to tape it
and so I measured a half-inch, to make sure that when I sew it,
I will sew right
exactly to the right of that tape, which will
give me a nice straight
uh... line
and the rick-rack will be really even
and then the part that's going to show will just be little peaks sticking out. It'll look really cute.
I think that pinning is a little bit
more challenging
So, I decided that I'll do the taping.
I think that it'll work best if you stitch along the end once, to hold
the rick-rack firmly
and backstitch... turn it
and then you can stitch
right down just to the right...of the tape Then it'll be really nice and smooth... no puckers
and you don't have to start and stop to pull out the pins...when you get to the end...you can just sew right off
and then clip it
Okay, now I've sewn the rick-rack onto both pieces
for the side front
And this little piece is going to sew on here
so it's really easy because I've sewn it with black thread, and I turn it over
and I have this little stitching line
and it'll be really easy to follow along
where I'm going to do it. So I'll put this on here like this.
and I'll pin it in place
and as I turn it over, I'll just sew it right on
just to
the inside
of that little black line, that I have...left from that other side
..now that I've finished
I've pinned the center front piece
right sides together, and I'm ready to start stitching
I'm going to stitch right along that line
And I'm going to do both sides, and then you can repeat the same step with the lining
And it's not too hard to do one, then the other, and switch back and forth
Now I've finished sewing this center front piece on and
I can kind of open this up and look at what we have.
We have a cute little piece of black
rick-rack that just peeks out around that.
And I'm going to go and I'm going to
iron this down and that helps everything look really nice
I made this ruffle before I even started working on the dress,
so that when I got to that point on the bodice, where I need to add the ruffle, it's already
ready
and I won't have to switch gears, put it away and take time to make a ruffle
so I'm going to take a look at what this looks like on the dress.
If you'd like to use a ruffle
I'll show you at the end of this video where you can go and watch a video that I made
showing how to
make a ruffle.
Okay, now that I've finished sewing
the rick-rack into this side seam
um... I had a reason for wanting to add that rick-rack
instead of just... and add it into a seam It's really nice and strong here and I
decided to sew these little
hooks on and it'll be anchored into several layers of fabric. It'll be a
good idea and it'll make it strong.
We've had some buttons that ripped out before. So, this is a good way to do it.
And I decided that it looks better
with the black
ruffle showing more, with a little pink peeking through
than over here. This side has the pink with a little black showing. So I decided
I like this better
So that's what I'm going to go with.
And ... I'll sew these on later on when we're done with the whole bodice.
This was fun, and now that I've seen how the rusching's going to look on the bodice
I'm seeing all my dreams kind of coming together.
So, join me next time for Part 3, when we'll start working on the back of the dirndl
and it's all going to come together.
If you go to "Dirndls on a budget part 3", you can learn all about how to make a rusching or a ruffle for your dirndl.