Tip:
Highlight text to annotate it
X
HI, TONY.
MY NAME IS AUGUSTO, AND I'M FROM LONG ISLAND, NEW YORK.
AND I THINK YOUR NEXT SHOW SHOULD BE
"NO RESERVATIONS: PHILIPPINES"!
THERE HAVE ALWAYS BEEN PLENTY OF GOOD REASONS
TO VISIT THE PHILIPPINES.
BUT FOR ME, THE TIPPING POINT
WAS ONE VERY ENTHUSIASTIC FAN NAMED AUGUSTO.
YOU MADE A VERY COMPELLING CASE
THAT THIS IS THE GREATEST PLACE ON EARTH,
BUT HOW MANY TIMES HAVE YOU BEEN TO THE PHILIPPINES?
ACTUALLY, TWO YEARS AGO WAS THE FIRST TIME.
HOW LONG WERE YOU THERE FOR?
I WAS ONLY THERE A WEEK. [ CHUCKLES ]
SO, WAIT A MINUTE -- YOU'RE ASKING US TO PAY FOR YOU
TO DISCOVER YOUR OWN COUNTRY?
THAT'S WHAT YOU'RE ASKING HERE,
RIGHT, RIGHT.
I'M GUESSING YOU HAD A PRETTY GOOD [BLEEP] TIME.
IT WAS LIFE-CHANGING, YEAH.
I'M ANTHONY BOURDAIN.
♪ THAT'S RIGHT ♪
I WRITE.
I TRAVEL.
I EAT.
AND I'M HUNGRY FOR MORE.
♪ OOH ♪
♪ YOU GOT TO ♪
♪ GET LOST ♪
-- Captions by VITAC -- www.vitac.com
CAPTIONS PAID FOR BY THE TRAVEL CHANNEL, L.L.C.
I FIRST MET AUGUSTO IN A HARSHLY LIT INTERROGATION ROOM
DURING THE FINAL-SELECTION ROUND
OF SOME SILLY DAMN FAN SPECIAL WE DID A WHILE BACK.
Woman: THINK YOU HAVE A GREAT IDEA FOR A "NO RESERVATIONS" SHOW?
FANS HAD BEEN INVITED TO SUBMIT TAPES
SHOWING US WHERE THEY THOUGHT I SHOULD DO A SHOW
AND WHY I SHOULD DO IT WITH THEM.
WHAT MORE COULD YOU WANT? WE'VE GOT BLUE CRABS.
AUGUSTO WAS VERY...LIVELY.
EFFUSIVE, EVEN.
I'LL SHOW YOU THE REAL PHILIPPINES.
PRETTY GOOD QUALITY COMPARED TO MOST.
AND HE SEEMED TO KNOW ME WELL ENOUGH.
IF THIS DOESN'T GET YOU TO GO TO THE PHILIPPINES,
THEN I DON'T KNOW WHAT WILL.
BUT TO BE PERFECTLY HONEST,
THERE WERE A FEW THINGS ABOUT AUGUSTO THAT WERE PROBLEMATIC.
YEP.
NO, I HAVEN'T.
NO?
I SENT HIM HOME THAT DAY DISAPPOINTED, I'M AFRAID.
I HATED TO LET THE GUY DOWN.
AND THEN THERE WAS THE FACT
THAT WERE A LOT OF FILIPINO FANS OF THIS SHOW
AND MANY OF THEM WERE GETTING MIGHTILY PISSED
THAT AFTER HAVING DONE SHOWS ALL OVER SOUTHEAST ASIA,
I HAD YET TO VISIT THEIR COUNTRY.
IT WAS GETTING TO BE EMBARRASSING,
WHICH IS HOW I FOUND MYSELF IN MANILA...
AND HOW AUGUSTO AND FAMILY FOUND THEMSELVES
HEADED TO THE AIRPORT TO FLY TO CEBU TO MEET ME.
WE'VE GIVEN AUGUSTO A LITTLE LEAD TIME IN CEBU
TO GET HIS AFFAIRS IN ORDER PRIOR TO OUR ARRIVAL.
SO I STUMBLE INTO THIS PHILIPPINE JOURNEY ON MY OWN.
THE HISTORY OF THE PHILIPPINES IS LONG, COMPLICATED,
EXTRAORDINARILY VIOLENT, AND HARD TO QUANTIFY
OR DESCRIBE IN A NEAT, LITTLE PARAGRAPH.
FROM INDIGENOUS POLYNESIAN PEOPLES,
WAVES OF MALAY AND CHINESE SETTLERS AND TRADERS,
COLONIZING SPANISH AND AMERICANS,
IT'S A BIG AND DEEPLY PERSONAL STORY WHEN IT COMES TO AMERICA.
THE PHILIPPINES PAID A VERY HEAVY PRICE
DURING WORLD WAR II.
BETWEEN THE JAPANESE OCCUPIERS AND OUR BOMBERS,
MANILA WAS PRETTY MUCH LEVELED.
THEY TEND TO LIKE US IN THE PHILIPPINES,
IN THE MEASURED WAY ONE LIKES SOMEONE WHO SET YOU FREE
FROM AN ENEMY BUT FLATTENED YOUR COUNTRY WHILE DOING IT.
[ WHISTLE BLOWS ]
THE WAY MANILA LOOKS TODAY IS A PRODUCT OF THOSE TIMES
AND THOSE POST-WAR VALUES
AND AN ENORMOUS AMERICAN MILITARY PRESENCE.
THE SIGNS ARE IN ENGLISH.
HAMBURGERS AND FRIED CHICKEN ARE WELL REPRESENTED.
BUT UNDERNEATH IT ALL, THERE'S AN OLDER STORY.
IVAN GIVES FOOD TOURS OF MANILA.
YOU GET A LOT OF THINGS HERE
RIGHT.
BUT YOU STILL FIND IT RIGHT HERE IN THIS PART OF TOWN.
HE'S TAKING ME TO THE OLDEST CHINATOWN IN THE WORLD
FOR SOME BASE-LINE PHILIPPINE FAVORITES,
DATING BACK TO PRE-SPANISH TIMES,
AND SOME EARLY COMPONENTS OF THE FOOD PUZZLE.
YES, IT IS.
I'M ALREADY LEARNING THE METHOD OF CROSSING THE STREET.
IT'S ALL ABOUT MOMENTUM AND COMMITMENT, RIGHT?
IT'S BETTER IF YOU JUST CLOSE YOUR EYES, I NOTICE.
CHINATOWN'S BIG. IT'S ACTUALLY A DISTRICT.
AND IT'S AS OLD AS OUR CITY, SO IT'S ABOUT 400 YEARS OLD.
THE STREETS ARE CLUSTERED BASED ON SPECIFIC TRADES.
THIS STREET -- THIS IS GOLD STREET.
AND THEN THE STREET WHICH WE'RE GOING TO IS FOOD STREET.
THIS IS KIND OF LIKE ONE BIG FOODIE PLACE.
CHICKEN BALLS, YEAH.
A VERY, VERY POPULAR STREET FOOD IN MANILA.
SO, WHAT YOU WANT TO DO IS YOU JUST GET A STICK AND JUST POKE.
JUST HELP YOURSELF, HUH?
YEAH, JUST HELP YOURSELF.
AND YOU ONLY DIP ONE, THOUGH, IN THE SAUCE.
SO YOU DON'T WANT TO DOUBLE DIP.
YES. NO DOUBLE DIPPING.
SO YOU PUT VINEGAR -- AND THIS THE SPICY ONE.
YUM.
YEP.
YOU DON'T WANT TO SLIP, THOUGH, AND PUT YOUR HAND INTO THE OIL.
THAT'S BAD.
I HATE WHEN THAT HAPPENS.
I LOVE THESE THINGS -- THE LITTLE MINIBUSES HERE.
THEY'RE JEEPS. THEY'RE ACTUALLY TONED DOWN A BIT.
THEY USED TO BE ALL GAUDY AND COLORFUL,
WITH HORSES AND ALL THAT.
THAT'S BREAKFAST FOR US.
IT'S TOFU.
AH.
KIND OF LIKE TOFU WITH TAPIOCA SYRUP.
MMM.
KIND OF LIKE MAPO, IN BEAN CURD FORM.
GOING THAT WAY.
IF YOU LOOK AT THAT FIRE TRUCK, IT'S COLORED PURPLE,
'CAUSE THE GUY WHO OWNS THAT
MADE IT BIG SELLING PURPLE CAKES.
HE HAS TWO THINGS HE'S PASSIONATE ABOUT IN LIFE --
MAKING HIS PASTRIES AND BEING A FIREMAN.
SO, WE HAVE PANCIT.
YES.
"PANCIT" CAN MEAN ANYTHING.
SO, WHAT WE'RE ABOUT TO HAVE TODAY --
IT'S CALLED PANCIT PALABOK.
BASICALLY RICE NOODLES COOKED IN ANNATTO SEEDS.
YEAH.
SO A LITTLE OF EVERYTHING?
YEAH, A LITTLE BIT OF EVERYTHING.
THAT'S PORK RIND.
PORK RIND. OH, YEAH. PLENTY OF THAT. YEAH.
A LITTLE SCALLION. AND THIS IS --
TOASTED GARLIC?
TOASTED GARLIC.
THEY'RE SHORT NOODLES.
YES, THEY ARE.
THANK YOU.
THESE ARE SOUR IN HERE.
YOU TASTE THE KALAMANSI.
KALAMANSI IS A SMALL CITRUS FRUIT
THAT LOOKS LIKE A TINY LIME
AND TASTES LIKE A SLIGHTLY BITTER TANGERINE.
IT'S UBIQUITOUS HERE, ADDING A SOUR COMPONENT TO MANY DISHES.
GOOD. THIS WILL HOLD YOU TILL LUNCH.
THIS IS A SNACK.
REALLY?
EXCELLENT.
ACTUALLY, NOT THE GREATEST THING EVER FOR ME, BUT GOOD.
YEAH.
OUR LAST STOP -- A COMBINATION FOOD COURT AND WET MARKET --
SOMETHING THE FILIPINOS CALL A "DAMPA."
YOU BUY YOUR FISH OR MEAT AND PRODUCE ON THE MARKET SIDE,
PICKING OUT WHATEVER YOU LIKE, AND THEN YOU GET THESE GUYS
TO TURN THEM INTO A MEAL FOR YOU, ANY WAY YOU LIKE.
WHAT ARE WE SHOPPING FOR?
WE'RE GETTING STUFF FOR A VERY, VERY TYPICAL
FILIPINO VEGETABLE DISH --
[ SPEAKS INDISTINCTLY ]
THIS IS BITTER GOURD.
Bourdain: LONG BEAN.
SQUASH. AND EGGPLANTS.
OKRA. THAT'S IT.
SO, WHAT ELSE ARE WE HAVING FOR THIS MEAL?
CRABS IN COCONUT MILK.
AND ADOBO SHRIMPS.
AH, FINALLY ADOBO.
WE'RE LOOKING FOR LIVE SHRIMPS, LIVE ONES.
OH, WOW. LOOK AT THOSE FISHES -- STILL JUMPING.
Bourdain: OH, YEAH. THEY'RE IN GOOD SHAPE.
[ SPEAKING FILIPINO ]
SO, THESE ARE SHRIMPS.
CRABS.
YOU LIKE THESE? WHERE DO THEY COME FROM?
UP NORTH?
THEY'RE LOCAL?
YEAH, THEY'RE LOCAL. EVERYTHING'S LOCAL HERE.
LET'S HAVE LUNCH.
SO, WHEN YOU TAKE IT THERE, THEY GIVE YOU A CHOICE
RIGHT.
AND HOW ARE WE GOING?
WE'RE GOING LOCAL, OF COURSE.
FILIPINO WAY ALL THE WAY.
YEAH. ALL THE WAY.
THIS ONE -- ADOBO...SHRIMPS.
AND COCONUT MILK.
Ivan: WHAT I CHOSE ARE ACTUALLY DISHES
WHICH ARE REPRESENTATIVE OF CERTAIN REGIONS.
OKAY.
SO THE VEGETABLE DISH COMES FROM THE NORTH.
THE COCONUT CRABS COME FROM THE SOUTH.
RIGHT.
YES.
YES.
AND THE ADOBO? THAT'S EVERYWHERE.
YEAH, THAT'S A NATIONAL DISH.
SO YOU CAN ADOBO ANYTHING --
CHICKEN, PORK, SHRIMPS, EVEN VEGETABLES.
I'M ENDLESSLY FASCINATED
WITH THIS SORT OF GEOGRAPHICAL PART OF THE WORLD.
YOU KNOW, A LOT OF THIS IS STRANGELY FAMILIAR
RIGHT.
I'M STILL STRUGGLING, BY THE WAY,
TO TRY AND KIND OF FIGURE OUT
HOW TO DESCRIBE FILIPINO CUISINE.
OKAY, WE'VE GOT THE MALAY, THE CHINESE INFLUENCES.
MAYBE ONE OF THE MISAPPREHENSIONS I MADE
IS LOOKING FOR SPANISH INFLUENCE WHEN, IN FACT,
THERE'S MORE OF LIKE A NEW WORLD --
RIGHT.
YOU KNOW, SPAIN BY WAY OF SOUTH AMERICA.
MEXICO, REALLY.
IT'S QUITE LITERALLY A MELTING POT.
RIGHT.
I GUESS THAT'S JUST NOT EASY FOR ME TO PUT MY THUMB ON AND SAY,
"AH, HERE'S WHAT THE PHILIPPINES ARE."
OH, HERE WE GO.
[ SPEAKING FILIPINO ]
SO IT'S A VEGETABLE DISH. WHAT'S IT CALLED?
PINAKBET?
YES.
IT'S GOURD, BEANS, SQUASH,
OKRA TOSSED TOGETHER WITH SHRIMP PASTE.
THEY'RE VERY CRUNCHY, BITTER,
UH-HUH.
IS THERE CHICKEN IN THERE OR SOMETHING?
PORK. ALL RIGHT.
ALL VEGETABLES ARE BETTER WITH A LITTLE PORK.
RIGHT. I AGREE.
MMM. YEAH.
I LIKE THE BITTER MELON -- THE BITTER GOURD.
VERY GOOD.
YOU KNOW, AS PART OF A MIX, IT'S NICE.
HERE COMES THE CRAB.
OH, WOW.
THIS IS THE ULTIMATE.
IT'S CRABS IN COCONUT MILK WITH CHILIES --
A VERY TYPICAL DISH FROM THE SOUTH.
OKAY?
WOW.
I'M TAKING THIS FIRST.
THE ROE.
HOW CAN YOU GO WRONG WITH COCONUT MILK?
YOU CANNOT. IT'S ALWAYS GOOD.
I LIKE THIS BECAUSE IT'S NOT SWEET OR CLOYING.
RIGHT.
YOU CAN'T BE AFRAID TO WORK FOR YOUR FOOD.
YOU GOT TO GET RIGHT IN THERE WITH YOUR FINGERS.
MM-HMM.
AND THE ROE. THIS IS THE BEST PART.
YEAH. I'M WITH YOU THERE.
SO, IN A WAY, OUR CUISINE IS STILL EVOLVING,
I MEAN, AFTER 500 YEARS.
WE STILL HAVE NEW INGREDIENTS COMING IN.
NOW, WHAT DOES "ADOBO" MEAN?
"ADOBO" IS ANYTHING THAT'S COOKED WITH SOY SAUCE,
GARLIC, PEPPERCORNS, ONIONS.
ADOBO ANYTHING.
THIS IS THE ADOBO SHRIMP?
THIS IS LUMPIA.
ADOBO...
THE THING WITH ADOBO
IS THAT THERE IS REALLY NO NATIONAL VERSION OF IT.
I MEAN, AS LONG AS YOU FOLLOW THE TEMPLATE,
THEN PRETTY MUCH ANY REGION
COULD HAVE THEIR OWN VERSION OF ADOBO.
SO IF YOU GO DOWN SOUTH,
THEY TEND TO PUT COCONUT MILK IN THEIR ADOBO.
YEAH.
THAT IS REALLY, REALLY GREAT.
YEP.
WE DID WELL.
SO I GUESS UNOFFICIALLY ADOBO HAS BECOME THE NATIONAL DISH...
RIGHT.
WHICH KIND OF YOU ASSOCIATE WITH THE PHILIPPINES.
I'LL TELL YOU, THIS IS REALLY GOOD.
COMING UP, HOW DO YOU LIKE YOUR GOAT?
URIC ACID, BILE, BITTER, AND GUTS.
THE GUTS WAS THE BEST-SOUNDING PART.
JUST MAKE SURE YOU SAVE ROOM FOR SISIG.
WHEN YOU'RE DRUNK, THIS IS EXACTLY WHAT YOU WANT.
Augusto: THE CUISINE IS SO RICH
JUST BECAUSE THERE'S BEEN SO MUCH INFLUENCE.
YOU KNOW, WE HAVE CHINESE INFLUENCE, SOUTHEAST ASIAN,
SPANISH, AND AMERICAN,
AND THEY'VE EMBRACED ALL THOSE FLAVORS.
I'M STILL TRYING TO UNDERSTAND IT MYSELF.
I'M IN THE PHILIPPINES BECAUSE OF AUGUSTO,
AND YOU'RE PHILIPPINE WONDERING, "WHERE IS HE?"
UNDOUBTEDLY HE'S IN CEBU, STUDYING THE PRODUCTION MANUAL.
RULE 37 -- NO RED M&M'S FOR TONY.
I'LL GET THERE SOON ENOUGH.
WE'RE LEAVING MANILA
FOR THE NEIGHBORING PROVINCE OF PAMPANGA.
PAMPANGA IS OF SPECIAL INTEREST TO ME FOR A NUMBER OF REASONS,
NOT LEAST OF WHICH IS ITS REPUTATION
AS BOTH BREADBASKET OF MANILA AND CULINARY CAPITAL.
SECONDLY, IT WAS AN IMPORTANT PART
IN THE LONG AMERICAN PRESENCE HERE.
CLARK AIR FORCE BASE WAS A HUGE FACTOR
IN AMERICAN MILITARY HISTORY
FROM THE SPANISH-AMERICAN WAR
THROUGH WORLD WAR II AND VIETNAM.
SINCE CLARK WAS DE-AMERICANIZED IN 1991,
THE NEARBY TOWN OF ANGELES HASN'T BEEN THE SAME,
WHICH IS PROBABLY A GOOD THING.
THIS WAS A LITTLE AMERICA --
A REPRODUCTION OF A SOUTHERN OR MIDWESTERN TOWN,
IF MAYBERRY HAD A GIGANTIC RED-LIGHT DISTRICT --
HOME TO THOUSANDS AND THOUSANDS OF MILITARY PERSONNEL,
MANY OF WHOM STAYED ON AND RETIRED HERE.
CLAUDE TAYAG, AS BEST AS I CAN TELL, IS AN ARTIST, A WRITER,
A CHEF, A RESTAURATEUR -- SOMETHING OF AN ICONOCLAST.
FACE OFF.
THE HEAD, THE CHEEKS, THE BRAIN. UHH!
WHAT I DO KNOW IS THAT HE IS WELL QUALIFIED
TO SHOW ME AROUND PAMPANGA
AND TO INTRODUCE ME TO SOME DISHES
WHICH EVERY FILIPINO KNOWS AND LOVES.
YOU GOT YOUR GOAT JOINT.
MILA'S -- GOAT -- FOUR WAYS.
THAT'S GOT TO BE A GOOD THING, RIGHT?
SMALL, KIND OF GRIMY-LOOKING STOREFRONT
OPEN TO THE STREET -- CHECK.
CEILING FANS GRINDING AWAY OVERHEAD -- ROGER THAT.
COLD BEER -- CHECK.
THIS IS CALLED A KAMBING...
IT'S VERY POPULAR IN THIS AREA.
ALL THEY SERVE IS KAMBING, WHICH IS THE GOAT.
WE'RE HAVING OUR GOAT FOUR DIFFERENT WAYS.
PAPAITAN IS YOUR BASIC GOAT SOUP MADE FROM HEART, LUNGS,
LIVER, AND OTHER GOOD STUFF, WITH A BITTER DIFFERENCE.
HAVE NOT BEEN SO WONDERFUL.
IT'S AN ACQUIRED TASTE, AND THE BITTER IT IS, THE BETTER IT IS.
IN VIETNAM, I'VE HAD BILE, BECAUSE IT'S SUPPOSED TO --
IT'S LIKE [BLEEP] MEDICINE, OKAY?
IT'S SUPPOSED TO MAKE YOU STRONG
AND HAVE MANY, MANY SONS IMMEDIATELY.
BUT AS A FLAVOR. OH, HERE WE GO.
LET'S SEE.
YOU SEE THIS FLOATING?
THE GREENISH THING.
THAT'S THE BILE.
ACTUALLY, THAT'S REALLY GOOD.
THAT'S GOOD.
YEAH?
I GOT TO TELL YOU -- THERE WAS NOTHING ABOUT THIS DISH
THAT SOUNDED GOOD -- URIC ACID, BILE, BITTER, SOUR, AND GUTS.
THE GUTS WAS THE BEST-SOUNDING PART.
BUT THAT'S GOOD.
WITH KILAWIN, THE FUR IS BURNED OFF THE SKIN,
WHICH THEN GETS BOILED WITH THE INTESTINES AND SERVED UP COLD.
CLAUDE'S DESCRIPTION WASN'T MUCH OF A RECOMMENDATION.
SO HERE IS THE GELATINOUS, RUBBERY SKIN.
SEE, YOU KNOW, I GOT TO TELL YOU, THIS IS REALLY GOOD.
[ CHUCKLES ]
"HERE'S THE GELATINOUS, RUBBERY SKIN DISH."
I'D THINK UP A NEW NAME.
SINIGANG IS A HOT SOUP FEATURING SHANKS, BACKBONES,
AND LOTS OF TASTY BONE MARROW.
OOH. HERE'S MY FAVORITE PART.
RIGHT, AND IT'S COOKED IN...
IN THE SOUR BROTH.
I CALL THIS ONE THE STRAW.
YOU CAN JUST...
YOU SUCK OUT THE MARROW. IT'S ALL ABOUT THE MARROW.
YEAH.
YEAH.
YOU KNOW, WHEN YOU DRINK SOMETHING HOT AND SOUR
ON A MUGGY DAY LIKE THIS, YOU SWEAT IT OUT, RIGHT?
[ LAUGHS ]
WHOO, I'M SWEATING IT OUT NOW.
AND LAST BUT NOT LEAST, GOAT HEAD SOUP.
EYES, BRAINS, TONGUE -- THE WORKS.
WOW. HOW DO WE ATTACK THIS?
OH, I HAVE AN IDEA. DO YOU EAT THE SKIN, TOO?
I GUESS, YEAH.
THEY BOILED IT SO IT WILL BE TENDER ENOUGH TO PEEL IT OFF.
GOING ON HERE.
COME ON, MY LITTLE FRIEND. HERE YOU GO, BUDDY.
I SEE YOU.
AND THE TONGUE'S GOT TO BE IN THERE SOMEWHERE.
OTHER SIDE, I GUESS. HERE IT IS.
AND THAT'S THE BRAIN.
YEAH. I GOT SOME HERE.
MMM. CREAMY BRAINS.
THERE ARE ALL THESE GREAT LITTLE BITS IN THERE.
YOU REALLY JUST GOT WORK A LITTLE BIT TO GET THEM.
THE GOAT WAS DELIGHTFUL,
SURPRISINGLY SO IN THE CASE OF THE BILE THING.
BUT FOR ME, THE "COME TO MAMA" MOMENT OF MY TRIP SO FAR...
...WAS THAT MOST-LOVED OF FILIPINO STREET FOODS,
THE STRANGELY ADDICTIVE SIZZLING-HOT MéLANGE
OF HACKED-UP PORK FACE --
A CRISPY, CHEWY, SPICY, SAVORY,
AND ALL TOGETHER DAMN WONDERFUL MéLANGE OF TEXTURES
THAT JUST SINGS.
EVERYTHING I LIKE ON A SMOKING-HOT SIZZLE PLATTER.
OH, SWEET SYMPHONY OF PIG PARTS -- OH, YES.
THE FIERCE LOVE,
THE MISTY-EYED REMINISCES OF FILIPINOS IN THE U.S.
LOOKING BACK ON THE FOOD OF THEIR COUNTRY,
SISIG ALWAYS COMES UP FIRST AND MOST EMOTIONALLY,
AND I COMPLETELY UNDERSTAND WHY.
EVERY FILIPINO I KNOW IN THE STATES
AND EVERYBODY WHO LIKE CAME UP TO ME IN THE AIRPORT --
FIRST THING THAT THEY MENTIONED, "YOU'RE GONNA EAT SISIG?"
YEAH.
AND I TELL YOU, THIS IS THE PLACE WHERE IT WAS BORN.
SISIG WAS, IN FACT, INVENTED HERE
AT THE ALING LUCING RESTAURANT BY ITS OWNER, LUCIA CUNANAN.
SHE'S CREDITED WITH COMING UP WITH THIS VARIATION
ON AN OLD RECIPE TO TAKE ADVANTAGE
OF THE UNUSED PIGS' HEADS THAT CLARK AIR FORCE BASE
USED TO GIVE AWAY DURING THE '70s.
NICE. I LIKE IT A LITTLE CRISPY ON THE BOTTOM.
OKAY.
YU-U-U-P.
KALAMANSI.
SO THE BOTTOM PART GETS TOASTED.
IT'S LIKE HASH --
CORNED BEEF HASH OR ROAST BEEF HASH --
BUT PORKIER.
MMM. I'M LIKING THE CRUNCHY PART.
OH, YEAH, I CAN UNDERSTAND THAT,
WHEN YOU'RE DRUNK, THIS IS EXACTLY WHAT YOU WANT.
IT MAKES YOU HAPPY.
Bourdain: I MEAN, THIS IS MAGICAL STUFF.
IT'S GENIUS THAT IT'S SERVED ON THIS SIZZLING PLATTER,
SO YOU GET THAT NICE MIX OF CRISPY AND CHEWY AND MEATY.
I COULD EAT THAT IN THE MORNING, YOU KNOW, WITH A FRIED EGG.
ARE YOU READY FOR A LITTLE SURPRISE?
YEAH, SURE.
OKAY, IT'S NOT AS THOUGH I'M UNFAMILIAR
WITH THE TASTY POSSIBILITIES OF THE BACK END OF A CHICKEN,
WHERE THE TAIL FEATHERS ARE ATTACHED,
BUT A WELCOME SURPRISE ALL THE SAME.
A LITTLE OF THE HOLY WATER.
YEAH, WELL, YOU KNOW WHAT THEY USED TO CALL THIS?
"THE POPE'S NOSE."
YEAH. [ LAUGHS ]
MMM.
OH, THAT'S DELICIOUS.
THAT'S A BIG CHICKEN.
SOMETIMES THEY RUN OUT OF THIS -- THE CHICKEN.
EVERYBODY'S BUYING IT.
YEAH, WELL, YOU KNOW, EVERY CHICKEN ONLY HAS ONE ***.
[ LAUGHTER ]
IN JAPAN, THEY EAT IT, AS WELL.
YAKITORI.
YEAH, BUT HIS GOT MORE OF THE SKIN AND THE FAT.
AND THIS WAS JUST SO AWESOME.
A LITTLE MORE. ALL RIGHT.
UNFORTUNATELY, THERE IS MORE TO LIFE
THAN CHOPPED SIZZLING PORK FACE ON A PLATTER.
AND CLAUDE'S GOT A FEW TRADITIONAL DISHES OF HIS OWN
TO SHOW OFF.
THEY'RE VERY, VERY FILIPINO.
Bourdain: AM I GONNA BE GETTING FOOD IN THE PHILIPPINES
THAT I COULDN'T GET IN QUEENS OR L.A.?
OH, YEAH, DEFINITELY.
NO, YOU WILL NOT.
BY NOW I'M SURE AUGUSTO'S PUT THE FINISHING TOUCHES
ON THE WELCOME EXTRAVAGANZA WE'VE LED HIM TO BELIEVE
I REQUIRE IN ALL DESTINATIONS,
AND I'VE GOT ONE MORE STOP IN PAMPANGA
BEFORE HEADING OFF TO MEET HIM.
CLAUDE TAYAG'S HOME IS A COMBINATION GALLERY, SCHOOL,
PARTY SPACE, RESTAURANT, AND SANCTUM SANCTORUM
KNOWN AS BALE DUTUNG.
HE HAS FOUR DIFFERENT KITCHENS IN THE HOUSE,
BUT IT'S A TRADITIONAL OUTDOOR KITCHEN
WHERE HE'S WORKING TODAY.
AMONG THE SCULPTURES, PLANTS, BEAUTIFUL WOOD CARVINGS,
AND OLD TREES, I SIT DOWN WITH CLAUDE, HIS WIFE, MARY ANNE,
AND RICH, A MUTUAL ACQUAINTANCE.
IT'S A PAMPANGA-THEMED MEAL,
AND CLAUDE, FORTUITOUSLY ENOUGH,
HAS BEEN THINKING AND WRITING ABOUT MY QUESTION
OF PHILIPPINE IDENTITY AND FOOD CULTURE FOR YEARS.
I HAVE TO SAY, OF ALL OF THE PEOPLE WHO WATCH THIS SHOW,
THE FILIPINOS HAVE BEEN THE MOST VOCAL ABOUT,
"HOW COME YOU HAVEN'T BEEN TO MY COUNTRY?"
WE'VE ALWAYS BEEN BYPASSED BY FOREIGN WRITERS.
EVEN IN COOKBOOKS.
YOU BUY A SOUTHEAST ASIAN COOKBOOK,
WHY?
FIRST OF ALL, LET ME ASK, THESE CUTE, LITTLE EGGS --
WHAT ARE THEY?
OKAY, THESE ARE QUAIL EGGS.
QUAIL EGGS. I THOUGHT SO. I HOPED SO.
AND THIS IS THE FRESH FIDDLEHEAD FERN SALAD.
NICE.
THEY GROW IT RIGHT HERE IN THE BACKYARD.
THIS IS LIKE FAIRLY TRADITIONAL?
HERE IN PAMPANGA, YES.
THIS IS LIKE $22 IN NEW YORK.
YEAH.
HERE IT'S GROWN FOR FREE.
US FILIPINOS -- WE'RE KIND OF ALIENATED
WITH THE REST OF SOUTHEAST ASIA.
WE ALWAYS LOOK WESTWARD, SPECIFICALLY TO AMERICA,
RIGHT.
IT'S A BIG, DIVERSE CUISINE.
SO, HOW COME IT'S NOT THE NEXT BIG THING?
I THINK BECAUSE NOT MANY PEOPLE COME TO THE PHILIPPINES.
I THINK THAT'S WHY, YOU KNOW?
ANOTHER THING, PROBABLY THE ONE THAT YOU GUYS ARE SAYING,
THAT OUR FOOD ALWAYS LOOKS DIFFERENT
FROM DIFFERENT RESTAURANTS, AND SO PEOPLE DON'T REMEMBER.
IF YOU HAD FIVE RESTAURANTS,
YOU WOULD HAVE FIVE DIFFERENT FLAVORS OF ADOBO.
WHAT IS THIS UNBELIEVABLY DELICIOUS-LOOKING THING?
Claude: THIS IS WHAT WE CALL SINIGANG.
IT'S A SOUP DISH MADE WITH SEAFOOD, MEAT,
AND ALL THESE VEGETABLES, MADE WITH A SOUR FRUIT.
IN THIS CASE, WE USED THE GUAVA.
SO THIS COMES WITH A SOUP?
SOUP. YES. THIS IS THE MILKFISH.
IT'S SUPPOSED TO BE THE NATIONAL FISH.
AND THESE ARE THE CRAYFISH I WAS TALKING ABOUT.
THERE'S SOMETHING KIND OF "GUMBO-ESQUE" ABOUT THIS.
YOU HAVE A GREEN BEAN IN THERE. YOU GOT SOME MEAT.
THERE'S NO RIGID RECIPE FOR IT.
IT CAN BE MADE WITH ANY COMBINATION OF THIS MIX.
BUT A SOUR COMPONENT.
THERE'S A SOUR COMPONENT, YES.
WHERE'D THAT COME FROM?
THAT, I WOULD SAY, IS UNIQUELY FILIPINO.
DURING THE PRE-REFRIGERATION DAYS,
A LOT OF IT SURVIVES, THE SHELF LIFE IS PROLONGED
BECAUSE IT'S COOKED IN VINEGAR.
THE BEST PART OF THE FISH IS THE BELLY.
AND THEN LATER ON, FOR THE COUP DE GRACE,
YOU WILL HAVE THE EYES.
OH, YEAH. NO PROBLEM. I HAPPEN TO LIKE THAT.
I GOT TO TELL YOU, THIS BROTH IS REALLY MAGICAL.
GEOGRAPHY HAS A PROMINENT ROLE
IN WHAT YOU EAT IN THE PHILIPPINES --
MAYBE MORE PROMINENT THAN MOST PLACES.
HOW MANY ISLANDS IN THE PHILIPPINES?
THERE ARE 7,000 MAYBE AT HIGH TIDE.
IT GETS COMPLICATED.
[ Laughing ] YEAH. YEAH.
SO, IMAGINE EVERY REGION,
EVERY ISLAND WOULD HAVE THEIR VERSION OF SINIGANG.
THEY WOULD HAVE A DIFFERENT KIND OF FISH OR SEAFOOD.
BUT DO YOU THINK THAT A CONSTANT WOULD BE
THERE WOULD BE SOME KIND OF SOURING AGENT?
SOME KIND, YES.
OXTAIL IS ONE OF THE WORLD'S GREAT INGREDIENTS --
I DON'T CARE WHERE YOU'RE EATING IT.
EVERYBODY WHO COOKS WELL
TENDS TO EMBRACE IT AS AN ESSENTIAL INGREDIENT.
YOU HAVE THE PEANUTS, WHICH CAME FROM THE NEW WORLD.
AT THE SAME TIME, YOU'RE SEEING OUR NATIVE INGREDIENTS,
WITH THE VEGETABLES.
IT'S ALWAYS LIKE EATEN WITH A SHRIMP PASTE.
THEN COMES THE MALAY PART.
VERY, VERY FILIPINO.
OH, MAN. THAT'S BEAUTIFUL.
QUAIL?
YEAH, I DON'T NEED A KNIFE AND FORK FOR THIS.
I KNOW JUST WHAT TO DO WITH THAT.
CLAUDE'S ADOBO PREPARATION IS A LITTLE MORE UPSCALE THAN MOST,
BY MY WAY OF THINKING, ANYHOW,
MADE WITH SMOKED BACON AND CHICKEN LIVER.
I AM TOTALLY THERE.
...WE CALL IT.
THERE'S A FLAVOR SPECTRUM GOING ON HERE
THAT IS DIFFERENT THAN ANYWHERE ELSE, I THINK.
MOST AMERICANS WOULD IMMEDIATELY LOVE THIS.
IF AN AMERICAN TOURIST SHOWED UP HERE,
WHAT DO YOU WANT THEM TO GO AWAY WITH?
BASICALLY, GIVING THEM THAT EXPERIENCE
OF HAVING EATEN IN A FAMILY GATHERING,
EATING TRADITIONAL FOOD -- PAMPANGA FOOD.
SO I WOULD SAY, LIKE, I'M A KEEPER OF THE FLAME,
LITERALLY OF THE STOVE.
IT'S LIKE COOKING THE FOOD THAT OUR GRANDMOTHERS,
OUR GRANDPARENTS, ATE.
THAT'S THE PAMPANGA PRIDE.
GIVE US SOMETHING REGIONAL --
I MEAN SOMETHING FROM ANOTHER PROVINCE.
I CAN TELL YOU, WE CAN DO IT BETTER.
AH, SO THAT WAS GONNA BE MY NEXT QUESTION.
PAMPANGA FIRST? PHILIPPINES SECOND?
YEAH.
YOU DIDN'T HAVE TO THINK ABOUT IT.
OKAY, LET'S PUT IT THIS WAY.
YOU CANNOT BE A FILIPINO UNLESS YOU BECOME A PAMPANGA FIRST.
BECOME YOURSELF FIRST.
NOT NECESSARILY PAMPANGA FIRST.
YEAH, WHATEVER REGION YOU ARE FROM.
YOU IDENTIFY YOURSELF WITH THAT FIRST.
YOU KNOW, I'M A NEW YORKER FIRST AND AMERICAN SECOND.
THERE'S NO QUESTION THERE.
TOMORROW WE'RE ON OUR WAY TO CEBU TO MEET UP WITH AUGUSTO.
Augusto: IF THIS DOESN'T GET YOU TO GO TO THE PHILIPPINES,
THEN I DON'T KNOW WHAT WILL.
HE BETTER NOT LET ME DOWN.
DO YOU FEEL LIKE AN OUTSIDER WHEN YOU COME HERE?
YEAH, DEFINITELY. DEFINITELY.
OFF TO CEBU TO MEET AUGUSTO, FINALIST FROM THE FAN SPECIAL.
THE FAN SPECIAL A WHILE BACK COUGHED UP A LOT OF CRAZINESS.
THIS IS THE TOKYO YOU'RE NOT SEEING.
SOME OPEN WINDOWS INTO SOME DARK
AND SOMETIMES SCARY PLACES.
BUT ON THE INSIDE, IT'S FULL OF PLASTIC BAGS.
BUT IT ALSO BROUGHT A TORRENT OF REAL, HEARTFELT PRIDE
PEOPLE FEEL ABOUT THEIR COUNTRY OF ORIGIN.
OUR FOOD IS AS DIVERSE AS OUR PEOPLE.
AUGUSTO HAD A STRONG ENTRY...
"NO RESERVATIONS: PHILIPPINES"!
...AND AN OBVIOUS AND, FRANKLY, VERY AFFECTING YEARNING
TO CONNECT WITH THE HOME OF HIS PARENTS.
HE HAD REAL ENTHUSIASM...
HWAH!
...AND A COMPELLING PERSONAL STORY.
I'M A FILIPINO-AMERICAN
BORN AND RAISED IN LONG ISLAND, NEW YORK,
AND I'VE RECENTLY DISCOVERED AND LEARNED TO APPRECIATE
THE CULTURE AND HERITAGE OF MY PARENTS.
HIS INTERVIEW, THOUGH, REVEALED A MORE RESERVED PERSONALITY
WITH NOT AS MUCH REAL EXPERIENCE
AS I WOULD HAVE LIKED.
HOW MANY TIMES HAVE YOU BEEN TO THE PHILIPPINES?
TWO YEARS AGO WAS THE FIRST TIME.
HOW LONG WERE YOU THERE FOR?
I WAS ONLY THERE A WEEK.
THIS WAS NOT GONNA GET YOU THE WIN
FOR A GIG AS MY PRINCIPAL GUIDE TO A COUNTRY NOT MY OWN
ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE WORLD.
IT BOTHERED ME THAT WE COULDN'T MAKE IT HAPPEN THIS KID.
AND YET HERE I WAS IN THE PHILIPPINES.
THANK YOU.
FUNNY THING -- THE AUGUSTO OF THE EFFUSIVE,
JUMPING-OUT-OF-HIS-SEAT VIDEOTAPE
IS DECIDEDLY TONED DOWN AS SOON AS WE MET AT THE AIRPORT.
WE DIG RIGHT IN AT THE CAPITOL SITE EATERY
FOR SOME STUFFED CRAB AND SOME SOUP.
SHOULD YOU BE TELLING ME, "WELCOME TO THE PHILIPPINES"?
OR SHOULD I BE TELLING YOU, "WELCOME TO THE PHILIPPINES"?
IN ANY CASE, GLAD TO BE HERE.
WELCOME.
SO, HOW DO YOU KNOW SO MUCH ABOUT THE FOOD HERE
WHEN YOU'VE REALLY ONLY BEEN HERE ONCE BEFORE FOR A WEEK
AND A FEW DAYS NOW?
WELL, THE THING IS, WHEN YOU COME HERE, ALL YOU DO IS EAT,
'CAUSE MY FAMILY TAKES US AROUND,
AND SO IT'S LIKE NONSTOP EATING ONCE WE GET HERE.
AUGUSTO, IT TURNS OUT, IS NOT THE PEPPY, PRO-ACTIVE EXPERT
I KIND OF HOPE FOR ON THIS JAUNT.
ANY DREAMS I'D HAD OF SORT OF TAKING THE DAY OFF,
LETTING HIM TAKE THE LEAD, WALK ME THROUGH THE INS AND OUTS
AND THE FOOD AND CULTURE OF THE PHILIPPINES
WHILE I JUST WORK ON MY BEER
AND DO THE USUAL HEAD-NODDING AND EATING BIT --
WELL, THAT'S OUT THE WINDOW.
OF ALL OF THE TAPES WE GOT AND SUBMISSIONS FOR THE FAN SPECIAL,
YOU KNOW, YOURS IS EASILY THE MOST ENTHUSIASTIC.
I KIND OF HAD THIS INSECURITY GROWING UP
AND KIND OF DIDN'T KNOW WHO I WAS, AND I REALIZE THAT,
WHOA, I TOTALLY JUST DIDN'T CARE EVEN.
SO NOW IT'S JUST LIKE NOW THAT I'VE DISCOVERED IT,
IT'S JUST -- I'M ECSTATIC.
WHAT CHANGED?
WELL, WHEN I WENT TO COLLEGE,
I WOULD SEE ALL MY, LIKE, CHINESE FRIENDS,
MY KOREAN FRIENDS, AND THEY ALL SPEAK THE LANGUAGE.
YEAH, VERY CONNECTED.
YOU KNOW, LIKE, ALL THE TRADITION IS THERE
VERSUS A LOT OF FILIPINO FAMILIES.
THEY'LL PUT ANOTHER CULTURE BEFORE THEIRS
JUST SO THAT THEIR KIDS CAN, YOU KNOW,
KIND OF GET ALONG AND JUST KIND OF FIT INTO THE CULTURE.
AND THAT WAS LIKE AN EMPTY PART OF ME, YOU KNOW?
SO I WAS LIKE, "YOU KNOW, I WANT THAT."
STUFFED CRAB BACK.
HAVE YOU EVER HAD THIS BEFORE?
YEAH, ME NEITHER.
HOW IS IT?
JUST AMAZING.
THAT'S NOT [BLEEP] YOU KNOW.
RIGHT, RIGHT.
I DON'T KNOW IF THERE'S SAUSAGE IN THERE, TOO,
BUT THERE'S A LOT OF CRAB MEAT.
OH, HERE WE GO.
WOW, THOSE ARE MASSIVE.
YOU HAVE?
THE SHANKS WEREN'T AS BIG AS THAT.
THIS IS CALLED BULALO.
THE PROCESS OF THIS DISH IS PRETTY TYPICAL, I MEAN,
OF A LOT OF THE SOUP-BASED STEWS.
I MEAN, A LOT OF THE COOKING HERE, IT'S LIKE,
JUST THROW EVERYTHING IN THE POT.
I LIKE THAT. YOU KNOW, IT'S A NICE, LIGHT BROTH.
OH, YEAH. THERE'S LIKE THE MARROW INSIDE THE BONE THERE.
OH, THERE YOU GO.
IS THAT ALL THE BONE-MARROW GOODNESS?
YEAH.
SO, WHAT ARE YOUR IMPRESSIONS NOW THAT YOU'VE BEEN HERE?
YEAH?
WHAT ABOUT, LIKE, THE PEOPLE?
THE PEOPLE HAVE BEEN RIDICULOUSLY NICE.
WELL, YOU'RE ACTUALLY THE PERFECT PERSON
TO ASK THIS QUESTION.
I'VE BEEN ASKING EVERYBODY. WHO ARE THE FILIPINOS?
THERE IS A STRONG UNDERPINNING OF AMERICAN CULTURE.
THERE'S THE 200, 300 YEARS OF SPANISH CULTURE.
THERE'S CHINESE, MALAY, POLYNESIAN TO SOME EXTENT.
IT'S SUCH A MIX, AND THEY'VE REALLY JUST EMBRACED
SO MANY DIFFERENT CULTURES, AND, UH, I MEAN,
EVEN FOR ME, TRYING TO FIGURE OUT WHO I AM.
MM-HMM.
I'M NOT ENTIRELY AMERICAN. I'M NOT ENTIRELY FILIPINO.
I'M KIND OF STUCK IN THE MIDDLE, AND THAT'S A HARD THING,
I THINK, YOU KNOW, FOR A LOT OF EVEN FILIPINO-AMERICANS.
YOU FEEL LIKE AN OUTSIDER WHEN YOU COME HERE?
YEAH, DEFINITELY. DEFINITELY.
LIVING IN A PLACE, I MEAN,
YOU REALLY TAKE ON THE PERSONALITY OF THE PEOPLE,
AND, YOU KNOW, I MEAN, I'M FROM NEW YORK.
RIGHT.
AND THEN THAT'S WHO I MOST ASSOCIATE WITH.
SO, YOU READY TO MEET MY FAMILY LATER?
I'M READY. REALLY, I'M PSYCHED.
I'M REALLY -- I'M JUST SO HAPPY THE WAY ALL OF THIS TURNED OUT.
THE FOOD IS GOOD -- REAL GOOD,
AND I'VE GOT HIGH HOPES FOR THE FAMILY MEAL LATER.
[ SIZZLING ]
EVERY FAMILY HAS A GO-TO GUY WHEN COMPANY COMES OVER.
IN THE CEBU BRANCH OF AUGUSTO'S FAMILY, THAT GUY IS UNCLE RAUL.
HE'S BEEN COOKING ALL DAY.
[ SIZZLING ]
I ARRIVE NOT SURE HOW OUR PRESENCE
IS GOING TO AFFECT THE DINNER-TABLE DYNAMIC.
BUT I'M REALLY LOOKING FORWARD TO THIS FOOD.
HI, EVERYBODY.
YOU TOO.
HI.
[ SPEAKING INDISTINCTLY ]
GO BACK TO MAMA?
THANK YOU.
WE DIG RIGHT IN,
AND I'M ALREADY NOTICING SOME RESTRAINT ON AUGUSTO'S PART --
LIKE HE'S WITHDRAWING A LITTLE.
SO, HOW OFTEN WOULD YOU EAT LIKE THIS ORDINARILY?
ALL THE TIME?
YEAH, YEAH. YEAH, THIS IS PRETTY ORDINARY.
MAYBE YOU CAN'T GO HOME AGAIN.
I MEAN, HIS FAMILY'S HAPPY TO SEE HIM AND ALL,
BUT IT'S NOT EXACTLY THE LOUD, TIPSY, CELEBRATORY HOMECOMING
I'D EXPECTED AND HOPED FOR, FRANKLY.
IT OCCURS THAT HOWEVER BADLY HE WANTS TO BE A FILIPINO,
TO RECONNECT WITH HIS ROOTS --
HOWEVER HARD HE'S WORKED TO MAKE THAT HAPPEN
PRACTICING THE LANGUAGE, READING UP, COOKING THE FOOD,
DIGGING UP FAMILY MEMORIES --
HE'S STILL AMERICAN, AND TO SOME EXTENT,
STILL NEW TO THIS PART OF THE FAMILY.
NOT A STRANGER LIKE ME,
BUT AN OUTSIDER OF SORTS JUST THE SAME.
I'M BEGINNING TO FEEL A LITTLE BAD FOR AUGUSTO.
AUGUSTO WANTS THE REAL PHILIPPINES,
THE BEST OF THE ISLANDS AND FILIPINO HISTORY ON A PLATE --
OKAY.
I BELIEVE I KNOW HOW TO MAKE THAT HAPPEN
AND WHO EXACTLY TO REACH OUT TO.
THEY SAY YOU ONLY HAVE THE SKIN OF A ***óN
WHEN THE STEAM IS STILL COMING OUT OF THE BUN.
Bourdain: OKAY, NOW, HERE'S AN IMPORTANT POINT.
CEBU [Seaboo] -- THAT'S PRONOUNCED CORRECTLY?
CEBU. [ Saboo ]
CEBU [Saboo] IS KNOWN FOR THE HAVING THE TASTIEST,
CRISPIEST ***óN PIG IN ALL THE PHILIPPINES.
YES, I HAVE.
AND, ACTUALLY, WE PURPOSELY BROUGHT BACK ***óN FROM CEBU --
...TO MANILA.
SO, YOU SMUGGLED MEAT?
YOU'RE NOW ADMITTING THAT YOU SMUGGLED MEAT PRODUCT
NO, NO, NO, NO, NO.
MY UNCLE IN THE PHILIPPINES, IN MANILA.
FROM CEBU TO MANILA.
YEAH, YEAH -- WITHIN.
'CAUSE I WAS REALLY ADMIRING THAT STORY.
[ INDISTINCT CONVERSATIONS ]
JOEL BENAMIRA IS A HIGHLY REGARDED BLOGGER
ON THE SUBJECT OF FILIPINO FOODWAYS.
AND I'M MEETING UP WITH HIM FOR THE EARLY STAGES
OF ORGANIZING A ***óN FEAST.
WE START OUT WITH A BIT OF SHOPPING AT THE LOCAL MARKET.
Benamira: YEAH.
IT'S PROBABLY THE LARGEST DRIED-FISH MARKET
IN THE COUNTRY.
SOME FISH GO INTO SOUP. SOME ARE FRIED.
SOME ARE ADDED TO VEGETABLE DISHES.
AND IT'S TASTY, YOU KNOW, IF YOU GREW UP WITH IT.
I MEAN, I HAD IT WHEN I WAS 5. YOU LOOK FOR IT.
THIS IS SQUID.
RIGHT. WE NEED SOME OF THAT, RIGHT?
YEP. IT'S JUST BEEN STRIPPED BY HAND.
AND WE'RE GONNA FRY IT UP FOR TWO OR THREE SECONDS
AND PUT IT ON TOP OF SOME TOMATOES WITH VINEGAR.
OH, NICE.
I JUST WANT TO TAKE YOU IN TO SEE SOME FERMENTED SHRIMP.
FISH SAUCES AND SHRIMP PASTE ARE FUNDAMENTAL ELEMENTS
OF MANY SOUTHEAST ASIAN CUISINES.
SO THIS IS SORT OF A FEW DAYS, THREE DAYS.
AND THAT'S TWO MONTHS.
IT'S REALLY KIND OF BROKEN UP.
AND, ACTUALLY, WHEN YOU DO FISH SAUCE, THE FIRST PRESSING,
LIKE, WITH OLIVE OIL, IS THE CLEAREST, THE CLEANEST TASTE.
IF SO MANY PEOPLE HAVE THE SAME PRODUCT,
WHAT DO YOU MAKE YOUR DECISIONS BASED ON, I WONDER?
ACTUALLY, A LOT OF MARKETING HERE
IS REALLY BASED ON A SUKI SYSTEM.
BASICALLY, YOU'RE REGULARS, AND YOU HAVE YOUR FAVORITE STALLS,
AND YOU BUILD A RELATIONSHIP WITH THEM.
IT'S LIKE HAVING YOUR FAVORITE BUTCHER.
ABSOLUTELY.
WHAT IS THE BENEFIT TO YOU, THE CONSUMER?
THE BENEFIT TO YOU IS THAT THEY TYPICALLY WILL SET ASIDE
THE BEST FOR YOU OR THEY'LL GIVE YOU A LITTLE BIT EXTRA.
BUT THE MINUTE YOU HAVE YOUR FAVORITE SUKI,
YOU TEND TO GO BACK TO THEM,
AND THEY'RE NOT LIKELY TO GIVE YOU BAD PRODUCT.
JOEL CONTINUES TO EXPERIMENT AND INVESTIGATE WAYS
TO DO THINGS BETTER AND MORE EFFECTIVELY.
BUT THE MAIN THEME IS ALWAYS LOCAL INGREDIENTS.
TRADITIONAL METHODS EQUAL GREAT ROAST PIG.
IN A COMMERCIAL RESTAURANT,
THEY HAVE NOW GEARS AND MACHINES DOING THEM.
SO IF YOU TALK TO FRED,
HE'S GONNA TELL YOU THAT'S SIMPLY IMPOSSIBLE.
THEY ADJUST IT AS THEY SEE THE SKIN GOING.
HE'S AN EXPERT.
BASICALLY WHAT HE DOES IS, WHEN IT'S FIESTA TIME,
OR THERE'S A PARTY OR WEDDING,
THEY CALL HIM IN TO DO THE ***óN.
Bourdain: THIS GUY'S GETTING READY FOR HIS DEBUT.
AUGUSTO AND FAMILY SEEM AS HAPPY AS I AM
ABOUT THE TWO GORGEOUS-LOOKING BEASTS
TURNING SLOWLY OVER THE COALS
AND THE VAST ARRAY OF OTHER DISHES EITHER IN PROGRESS
OR HEADED TO THE TABLE --
TWO KINDS OF SEAWEED SALADS...
SPANISH MACKEREL GRILLED AND SERVED RAW LIKE SEVICHE...
TROPICAL FRUITS WITH SHRIMP PASTE...
A TOMATO SALAD WITH SOME OF THE DRIED SQUID
WE BOUGHT AT THE MARKET...
A GRILLED EGGPLANT DISH SIMILAR TO BABA GHANOUSH...
BOILED SHRIMP...
AND BEEF-AND-PORK STEW.
OUT OF SIGHT.
WE'RE GONNA EAT WELL TODAY, MY FRIEND.
ALL RIGHT. SOUNDS GOOD.
YEAH, VERY FEW FAMILIES STILL DO THIS AT HOME.
YOU'RE LIKELY TO ORDER IT.
AS LONGTIME VIEWERS KNOW, THERE ARE FEW THINGS I LOVE MORE
THAN PIGS ROASTING OVER AN OPEN PIT.
AND IT HAS BEEN CLAIMED MANY TIMES THE FILIPINO ***óN,
OR WHOLE-ROASTED PIGGY, IS THE BEST IN THE WORLD.
I'VE HAD A LOT OF GOOD PIGS.
OH, THERE HE IS. OH.
SO THAT'S A TALL ORDER. FIGHTING WORDS, IN FACT.
COULD IT BE THE BEST?
AUGUSTO, CHECK THIS OUT.
COME ON. LOOK AT THIS -- THIS MAGICAL ANIMAL.
I CONSIDER MYSELF AN EXPERT ON PIG,
AND THIS IS LOOKING PRETTY GOOD.
OH, YEAH?
I THINK IT'S LOOKING PRETTY GOOD, TOO.
I MEAN, I THINK THIS IS PROBABLY FUNDAMENTAL
IN GETTING BACK IN TOUCH WITH YOUR ROOTS, MAN.
[ LAUGHS ]
[ CRUNCHES ] OH, MAN.
YES, HE WAS A HAPPY PIG.
MAN, I TELL YOU. THE SKIN'S EXTRAORDINARY.
I MEAN, THAT'S JUST... [ CRUNCHES ]
THAT'S LIKE CANDY.
EVEN THE SOUND IS LIKE... [ LAUGHS ]
IT'S AN UNBELIEVABLE COOKING JOB, TOO.
I MEAN, IT'S SO EVENLY BROWNED.
OH, MAN.
THIS IS A PRETTY AMAZING MEAL SHAPING UP HERE.
I MEAN, I'M JUST LOOKING AT ALL THE STUFF GOING ON, AND...
HAVE YOU BEEN TRAINING FOR THIS SHOW, BY THE WAY?
I MEAN, LIKE FASTING AND WAKING UP EVERY MORNING
AND STRETCHING YOUR STOMACH WITH A GALLON OF WATER?
WELL, I WAS TELLING YOU.
I LOST 15 POUNDS BEFORE THIS TRIP.
WELL, YOU'RE GONNA BE PACKING ON A FEW MORE.
WELL, I'M UP TO 5 NOW, SO...
YEAH, YEAH.
LOOK AT THAT.
NICE, LITTLE FATTY THING GOING ON IN THERE.
[ CRUNCHES ]
THEY SAY YOU ONLY HAVE THE SKIN OF A ***óN
WHEN THE STEAM IS STILL COMING OUT OF THE BUN.
YEAH, IT'S STILL STEAMING, LIKE.
IT'S DEFINITELY STEAMING. THIS IS THE GREATEST THING EVER.
YOU KNOW, IT'S A LITTLE PREMATURE TO SAY SO.
SO FAR, ALL INDICATORS ARE GOOD.
AND, BY THE WAY, UM, LET'S ENTER INTO A CONSPIRACY RIGHT NOW.
THERE WILL PROBABLY BE A LOT OF PEOPLE AT THE TABLE,
AND THEY'RE ALL GONNA BE, LIKE, LOOKING AT THE THING,
TRYING TO, YOU KNOW -- EVERYONE TRIES TO BE POLITE
AND NOT BE THE FIRST, LIKE, ANIMAL TO,
YEAH.
IT'S GONNA BE US, AND I'M GOING RIGHT FOR THE CHEEK.
SO LET'S JUST GET THAT STRAIGHT.
YEAH.
I'LL KEEP THAT IN THE BACK OF THE MIND.
I'LL GIVE YOU A LITTLE HIGH SIGN, YOU HAND ME THE KNIFE,
OKAY.
JUST TO KEEP ANY HANDS OR DIGITS AWAY.
YOU KNOW, DON'T GET BETWEEN ME AND THE CHEEK.
WAIT. YOU'RE GETTING BOTH OF THEM?
NO, NO. JUST ONE. YOU CAN HAVE THE OTHER.
ALL RIGHT, ALL RIGHT.
YEAH, SO, HOW MANY TIMES HAVE YOU HAD THIS DISH?
MAYBE ONCE OR TWICE.
[ CHUCKLES ] GLAD WE COULD MAKE THIS HAPPEN, MAN.
[ BOTH LAUGH ]
STILL A LITTLE CONCERNED ABOUT AUGUSTO.
HE AND HIS FAMILY SEEM TO BE HAVING A GOOD TIME,
BUT IT'S OBVIOUS THAT THE OMNIPRESENT CAMERAS
*** THEIR EVERY MOVE ARE HAVING AN IMPACT.
WITH THREE PEOPLE ACTUALLY LEANING IN
AND JAMMING A LENS INTO HIS FACE WITH EVERY UTTERANCE,
AUGUSTO'S HIGH-ENERGY ENTHUSIASM
AS SEEN ON HIS FAN-SHOW SUBMISSION
SEEM TO BLEED OUT A LITTLE.
I FEEL HIS PAIN.
WILL AUGUSTO RALLY AND MAKE THE TRANSFORMATION
TO EGOCENTRIC, OUTGOING TELEVISION PROFESSIONAL?
AND MORE IMPORTANTLY, HOW GOOD IS THAT PIG?
REALLY. WHEN WE COME BACK.
[ CRUNCHING ]
THIS ***óN FEAST IS OFFICIALLY UNDER WAY,
AND THE EATING IS GOOD.
Bourdain: DUDE, YOU REALLY LOADED UP.
Augusto: [ CHUCKLES ]
HEY, YOU KNOW, YOU CAN REVISIT THE BUFFET.
WELL, I THOUGHT I WAS PACING MYSELF.
YEAH.
EXCELLENT. GOOD. I LIKE THE CUT OF YOUR JIB, MY MAN.
[ LAUGHS ]
AUGUSTO'S FAMILY ARE FULLY IN THE SPIRIT OF THINGS --
ALL OF US HAPPY SAILORS ON THE GOOD SHIP PORK,
TEARING AND HACKING AWAY UNDER THE SAME FLAG,
AUGUSTO FINALLY IN THE GROOVE.
THE MAN HAS SPOKEN.
LIKE ME, HAPPY TO BE ALIVE AND MAKING TELEVISION
IF IT MEANS EATING LIKE THIS.
BUT I'M STILL WRESTLING WITH THE SAME QUESTIONS I HAD
AT THE BEGINNING OF THIS TRIP.
WITH FILIPINOS SO WELL-REPRESENTED IN AMERICA,
WHY IS IT THAT FILIPINO CUISINE IS KIND OF A BLANK PAGE?
WHY DOESN'T IT HAVE A HIGHER PROFILE IN THE STATES?
MY TAKE ON IT IS THAT THE FILIPINOS, IN GENERAL,
ADAPTED TO NEW PLACES MUCH QUICKER AND MUCH MORE READILY
THAN MANY OTHER CULTURES.
AND TODAY, IN PARTICULAR,
THERE ARE 8, 10, 12 MILLION FILIPINOS ALL OVER THE WORLD.
RIGHT.
SO YOU'LL FIND WE'RE JUST AS COMFORTABLE
EATING A SHAWARMA FROM THE GUYS WHO COME BACK
FROM THE MIDDLE EAST TO CHINESE FOOD TO JAPANESE FOOD,
KOREAN FOOD, AND AMERICAN FOOD.
IS THERE SOMETHING ABOUT THE FLAVOR SPECTRUM
OF FILIPINO CUISINE?
IT'S NOT AS SHARPLY HERBED OR SPICED
AS, SAY, VIETNAMESE FOOD OR THAI FOOD.
I DON'T THINK THAT'S IT.
I THINK YOU HAVE AN ABUNDANCE OF DIVERSITY.
MM-HMM.
YOU KNOW, YOU NEED TO PICK THREE DISHES, KIND OF.
EXACTLY.
AND I THINK, AS WELL...
I THINK YOU'RE JUST TOO DAMN NICE.
[ LAUGHTER ]
I THINK THIS IS A PROBLEM. [ CHUCKLES ]
I KNOW SOMEONE WHO RECEIVED AN IMPORTANT
AND INDELIBLE IMPRESSION OF HER PHILIPPINE HERITAGE.
OH, YEAH, ANOTHER RIB.
[ LAUGHTER ]
SHE LIKES IT. SHE'S PALMING THE WHOLE THING.
SHE LOVES IT.
REMEMBER FROM NOW ON, UNCLE TONY INTRODUCED YOU TO THIS.
[ LAUGHTER ]
AW, THIS IS ONE OF MY HAPPIEST AND PROUDEST MOMENTS.
I FEEL VERY GOOD ABOUT THIS.
YEAH. DON'T CHOKE. YOU'LL MAKE UNCLE TONY LOOK BAD.
FORCING PORK ON INFANTS -- IS THAT A CRIME ANYWHERE?
IN THE END, IT ALL SEEMED TO WORK OUT.
AUGUSTO HAD A FINE TIME WITH HIS FAMILY
AND GOT A PRETTY SPECTACULAR MEAL FOR HIS TROUBLES.
I GOT THE BEST PIG EVER,
WHICH MEANS A VERY PRODUCTIVE DAY'S WORK
AS FAR AS I'M CONCERNED.
I HOPE I SHOWED AT LEAST A SLICE OR TWO
OF WHAT'S REALLY FUN AND REALLY DELICIOUS
ABOUT THE PHILIPPINES --
A COUNTRY AND A FOOD CULTURE I REALLY WANTED TO DO RIGHT BY.
WHETHER I EVER ANSWERED OR CAME CLOSE TO ANSWERING
SOME OF MY CENTRAL QUESTIONS ABOUT FILIPINO IDENTITY,
I'LL LEAVE THAT TO SOMEBODY BETTER QUALIFIED, I GUESS.
IN THE END, IT WAS ALL ABOUT THE FOOD
AND, OF COURSE, ABOUT AUGUSTO.
AUGUSTO, I GOT TO SAY,
YOU WERE THE GUY WHO CONVINCED ME TO COME TO THE PHILIPPINES.
YEAH.
THERE HAD BEEN A STEADY DRUMBEAT, AS YOU KNOW,
OF PEOPLE SAYING, YOU KNOW, "WHY HAVEN'T YOU BEEN?
WHY HAVEN'T YOU BEEN?"
BUT IT WAS THAT SHORT LITTLE FILM YOU MADE,
AND THEN WHEN I MET YOU DURING THE INTERVIEW,
YOU MADE A VERY...COMPELLING ARGUMENT,
AND, I MEAN, THAT WAS IT.
THAT'S WHAT TIPPED IT OVER FOR ME.
SO, THANKS, MAN.
I'M HAPPY. THANK YOU, AS WELL.
HE DID. OH, YEAH. HE WENT RIGHT FOR THE SOFT SPOT.
THANK YOU, MAN. THANK YOU SO MUCH.
AN AMAZING MEAL, AND I SHOULD MENTION...
BEST PIG EVER. THANKS.
BEST PIG EVER, FAR AND AWAY. AND I HAVE HAD MANY PIGS.
JOEL.
LOOKING AT HIM, IF THERE'S ANYTHING SMART I CAN SAY
ON THE SUBJECT ON NATIONAL AND ETHNIC IDENTITY IN GENERAL,
WATCHING FILIPINO-AMERICAN AUGUSTO
WITH HIS CHINESE-AMERICAN WIFE,
AND I GUESS, THESE DAYS, A TYPICAL AMERICAN BABY,
I THINK MAYBE THE WHOLE CONCEPT IS GETTING QUAINT
AND KIND OF OUTDATED.
WHO ARE WE REALLY?
INCREASINGLY, WHEREVER OUR HEARTS ARE.