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Speaker: Welcome to Professor Pincushion. In this tutorial, we're going to be work on
McCall's 6690. In this particular tutorial, we're going to be focusing on a dress D
which you can see right here. This pattern comes in two size groupings. You're
going to want to make sure you grab the right size. You can see it right here on the side
of the envelope.
Let's take a quick look at an example of the dress we're going to be making in this tutorial.
This is a girl's pullover dress that has a button in the back. It also uses a sheer overlay
fabric, so you can see the fabric is a little bit sheer in the sleeves and the ruffle at
the bottom. But it has a lining in the main part of the dress. It also has a fabric belt,
so you can tie the dress either in front or the back. To make sure you're cutting out
the right pattern, you're going to want to consult the body measurement chart located
on the top flap of the pattern envelope because retail sizing and the pattern sizing are not
always the same.
You can see this is split up by children's and girls. This top row here, these are the
actual sizes, and then underneath it are the measurements here in inches. So you're going
to want to measure the child's chest waist and hip, and you're going to take these measurements,
and try to line them up best you can in one column. So whatever column works best for
you that is going to be the size that you're going to cut out, and we're also going to
use it to figure out how much fabric we're going to need.
Looking at the back of the pattern envelope, the first thing I like to look at is the suggested
fabrics. So here they're telling you what fabrics they suggest that you use is in order
to complete this garment. So this here is the main fabric, and then you're also going
to need a lining fabric. Also we have notions for all the garments in this envelope A, B,
C and D you're going to need one three-eighths button, and a one package of half inch single
fold bias tape, and then if you're doing A, you're also going to need these other things.
But if you're not doing A, as we're doing D, then you can go ahead and skip what they
have under A.
Once you have your fabric picked out, you can then move on to figure out how much fabric
you're going to need cut. So first you need to find your view. I doing view D, so here
you can see A, B, C and D, so I only need to look at the D row. You have 45 and 60.
This relates to the width of the fabric either the fabric is 45 inches or 60 inches in the
width. Mine is 60 so then I could go along and follow the 60 inch row.
I'm going to find my size. I'm doing size three, so I'm going to go down the three column
until I get to the 60 inch row, and then I'm going to need one and half yards of fabric.
You could see here they also have lining. We have lining here, and lining here. This
is for lining A, B and D. And this is for lining C. Again I'm doing D, so I had only
need to look at this row which is for 45 inch width fabric. I go again across the 45 down
to 3, and I'm going to need a half yard of lining.
Let's go ahead and break out our direction. So on page one, you're going to see a diagram
like this with all the views. We're going to be doing view D. Underneath that, its going
to be going to be a chart of all the pattern pieces located in this envelope. Underneath
that is a list of the pattern numbers, and these numbers go with these pattern pieces
up here, so one and one and then they tell you what it is. It's the front.
To find out which ones you need to cut out, you're going to see up here is top A, B and
dress C, D and belt. If you look at number 5, it says ruffle B, if you're not doing view
B, you do not need to cut out piece 5 because if already designated this is for B same thing
with 6. Lower ruffle B. If it doesn't have a letter behind it, that means it's for all
views, so if I'm doing D, I'm only need to cut out 1, 2, 3, 4, 7 there is the D right
here and 8.
Pulling out the tissue paper from the envelope, you're going to see all your pattern pieces
printed on it, and they're going to have numbers right in the middle just like this one and
this again correlates to the list we were just looking at. But if you're unsure you
can look right underneath it, and it states exactly what the pattern piece is for, and
then it will have the letter of the view that it goes with. You're going to cut right either
right on the line, or just right outside the line for cutting out your pattern piece. Sometimes
you'll see a series of lines. You're going to cut depending on what size each line is
for, so if for example I'm doing 3, I follow the arrow up to the line where the arrow ends,
that's going to be for size 3. So I would just cut along here, turn, and then cut along
this line, so all this would get cut off.
If it's just a solid line with no number associated with it, and that's going to be for all sizes,
you're also going to want to make sure that you cut out your notches which you can see
right here, so either you could cut into the notch, so created a little triangle going
inside the piece or you can do one that goes outside the piece, so just a little outer
triangle there because we definitely want to make sure that we mark those.
Now, some of the pieces 1 through 4, I have one right here, you will notice that it will
have different lengths, and if you look at the bottom with some of the lines, it will
say cut here for A, B and C, and then there will be a longer line that says cut here for
D, so they're just for using the same piece, and if it's a longer dress, you're just cutting
out on the different lines. If you're still using the same piece, still following all
the rules but if you're doing say D, you would cut out one line as opposed to C.
After you finish cutting out all your pattern pieces, you can then proceed with pinning
them to your fabric. In order for us to figure out how we need to layout our pattern pieces
in order to make the most of the fabric and also to make sure that our grainline is going
in the same direction, we're going to consult the layout directions. You can see some of
them here, and you need to make sure you're looking at the right view, so at the top you're
going to see dress and belt D, and since we're doing D, then everything below is going to
relate to us.
You can see here we have 45 inch and 45 inch. So they're showing you the layout that you
would use if you're using 45 inch width fabric. The difference between these two is that this
one is for sizes 3 through 6, and this is for sizes 7 through 14. So if for example
you have 45 inch width fabric, and you're doing size 3, you would just have to look
at this setup right here.
If you have 60 inch width fabric then you're going to keep looking down and you'll see
they have a similar setup 60 inch and 60 inch. This is for sizes 3 through 6, and this is
for 7 through 14. I have 60 inch width fabric I'm doing size 3, so I just have to look at
this setup.
Now, you'll see this is fold and selvages. This means that the width of the fabric so
the 60 inches is folded in half with the selvages meeting up here, and then you have your fold.
So then I'm laying out all my pieces, and when I cut out say piece number 4, I end up
with 2 number 4s because I'm doubling my fabric when I cut it out. Now you'll notice some
here is white, and some here is polka dot. The white pieces is for, is telling you that
the print side of the pattern is facing up towards you. If its polka dot that means they
turned it, so the print side is facing down towards the fabric, so this is telling you
what pieces you need to cut out of your main fabric.
So for example you have 4, and its right side facing up, and then you have 1 and its wrong
side facing down. Now, 1 and also piece 7 need to be replaced on the fold of the fabric,
so when you pin and cut it out, you're just going to be pining on this side, and this
side, and then this little side right here. You can also pin 1 on the fold line, but you're
not cutting here. You're just cutting on the three sides, so when you open it up, you end
up with the piece that's doubled the size of number 1, and its going to be the same
for number 7.
Now, you see number 7 three times is because they want you to cut this out three times,
so you would pin it, cut it out, remove the pattern piece, place it right next to where
you cut it out, and then do it one more time. You can see its kind of the same thing with
piece number 8 because they want you to cut out three of the number 8 piece so you just
pin it, cut it out, you end up with 2, and then you'll see 8 with the star next to it.
What the star means is, they want you to cut out all the other pattern pieces first, and
then whatever is leftover in the fabric, you can go ahead and open it up because you only
need to cut one more piece number 8.
Lastly, you need to cut out your lining pieces, so you're going to be reusing some of the
same pieces in order to cut out your lining, and you're going to do 1, 2, and 3. 1 again
is placed on the fold of the fabric, 2 is placed upside down and then 3 is just up here
at the top. One step that's very important it's transferring marks on the pattern pieces
to your fabric pieces, and these marks will look like circles. They will look like dots.
They may look like triangles or squares. Whatever they are, you need to make sure that you what
I like to do is I put my needle through my mark, and you only need to do it for your
size, so I'm only doing it for where there is a 3 next to it.
Now, if it's a square that doesn't have a size next to it, then its for all sizes.
So I put my pin right through this circle or dot that I'm going to, and on the wrong
side of my fabric, I'll use my fabric marker, and I'll just mark when my pin is coming into
or out of my fabric, so I'll just mark it that way, but I definitely want to make sure that
you transfer all marks to your fabric.
We're almost ready to start sewing, but let's just take a quick peek at our sewing directions.
First we have our sewing information guide. Here you're going to see the seam allowance
so its going to be five-eighths of an inch unless otherwise indicated so if it just says
do a seam we're always going to assume, its going to be five-eighths of an inch unless
they state something differently in the directions.
Also we have the fabric key, so this is how we're going to be able to read the picture
directions that are with the written directions. So here you have the right side of the fabric
if it's sort of the shaded look, you can see that here. This is we're looking at the
right side of the fabric or the right side of the garment. Just white is the wrong side
of the fabric you can see that here. We don't have to worry about interfacing because there's
no interfacing in this project. Now if it's shaded with these little lines such as right
here, that means it's going to be at the right side of the lining and if its white with the
little lines, that's the wrong side of the lining, and you can see that there.
So at the beginning of the directions, usually it will tell you which view its for. Now,
and it doesn't say like this one just says front and back. That's going to be for all views,
so regardless if you're doing the top or the dress, you're going to go ahead and start
with one, and you're going to continue down into the directions unless it states something
differently such as over here it says for views, A, C and D, so if you were doing B,
you can go ahead and skip this step until you actually find a step that is relating
to B.
Step 1; reinforce side edges of front and front lining to the large circles as shown. clip
to large circles. Out of your piece number 1, you should have cut out 1 out of your lining
and a 1 out of your main fabric. Marks from the pattern piece should have been transferred
to your fabric piece, and you could see some of my circles here. There should be two large
circles, right on the edge here. My two large circles here so on each of these pieces I'm
going to be stitching at my seam allowance, so at the five-eighths line using the regular
stitch just a line from one big circle to the other big circle.
I'm not stitching these two pieces together. Its just one individual layer stitching from
this circle to this circle. I've only have it lay top of each other so I can show both
at the same time. I'm going to be doing it for the lining piece and also for my main
piece, both sides, so this side and this side over here and again I would be doing the same
to my main fabric as well. We're stitching in this area in order to reinforce this point
of the garments so I'm just starting on the outside of my first circle. You can see it
right there.
Again at the five-eighth seam, I'm going to do a couple stitches, and then a couple of
back stitches, and I'm just doing a regular width stitch going to the other large circle
and then doing a couple of back stitches as well. To finish Step 1, on both your lining
and your main pieces you're going to clip at the point where your circle is. Now, my
circle is a little off, so you definitely don't want to cut into your stitches just
in the same line of the circle, and just cut as close as you can to the stitches.
Step 2, turn front seam allowance to the inside between clips press. This is my main fabric.
This is the area where I just stitched right there between the two circles, and I went
ahead and I clipped it. You can see its just a little flap now. This, we're looking at the
wrong side of the fabric now, so all they want you to do on both this side and the other side
as well, with the wrong side facing up, you're going to take this little flap. You're
going to fold it over, so your stitching is pretty much going to be on the edge of the fold
now, and all you're going to do is just press it with your iron.
Step 3, turn front lining seam allowances to outside between clips press. We're basically
going to be doing the same thing we just did, but now to our lining piece, but the difference
is we're folding it over to the right side now. So I have the right side of my lining
facing up. Again you're going to take your flap. You're going to fold it over, so your
stitching is right on the fold line now because you're doing it the seam allowance, and you're
going to press it. And you're going to do it for both sides of the lining, so with the
main piece you're folding the flap over to the wrong side and for the lining; you're
folding it over to the right side.
Step 4; turn up one and a quarter inches hem on lower edge of lining. Base close to fold;
turn in one quarter inch on raw edge press stitch close to the inner edge as shown. You're
going take your lining piece and again this is the front lining. And on the bottom edge
here, we're going to fold up to the wrong side. So at the wrong side of the lining facing
up, I'm going to grab my sewing gauge and straight pins, and all along this bottom edge
go ahead and fold up one and a quarter inches so I'm just going to measure and once is that
measurement I can go ahead, and stick a pin right, and I'm just going to do all along
this bottom part. And then once is all pinned up, but what we're going to do is you're going
to use a basting stitch and do all along this bottom fold real close to that fold line there.
For basting on the edge, you're going to use your longest machine stitch that you have.
The nice thing is you also don't have to worry about a back stitch. Its just a temporary
stitch to help us do the hem on our lining. Next, you're going to take the top of the
hem so the raw edge here, and you're going to turn it under a quarter of an inch, so
then you have about an inch left. You can go ahead and pin this top part here. After
you finished pinning, the whole hem, you can go ahead and press it, and then we're going
to take it back to the machine because then we're going to stitch right along the top
of this fold line as well.
When I stitch right along the top of this fold line here, I'm just going to go ahead,
and do a regular width stitch this time not a basting stitch. And you can do a couple
of back stitches on both sides because this one is going to be a permanent stitch in creating
this hem.
Step 5, pin right side front lining to wrong side of front matching all centers and symbols
baste raw edges together, slip stitch, press edges together between clips. You're going
to take your lining, and you're going to lay it right onto your main fabric on the front.
These are both the front. The wrong side of your lining should be facing up because the
right side of the lining goes to the wrong side of the fabric. So its right side, to
wrong side, and then the right of this fabric is down towards the table.
Once its all matching up, and you notice this obviously its not going to line up with the
bottom of this because we went ahead and hemmed this in the last step. Go ahead and pin these
three edges together. You're going to do a basting stitch so remember that it's the
longest stitch on your machine, you're going to start here, and you can do it at the five-eighths
mark again, so you're going to baste to here, and then you're going to stop.
Start again here. Baste up, you can go ahead and pivot, pivot again. You can stop your
basting stitch right here. Start it again, and then baste to at the end right here.
You will notice you're not stitching in these areas here because I'm going to show you in
the next part how to slip stitch these two pieces close. All right let's do the slip
stitch now. So this is the area remember that we didn't do the basting stitch and I
went ahead and just pinned it just hold it for now.
I'm going to use a contrasting thread, so hopefully it will be a little bit easier for
you to see. Normally you would like to use a matching thread so, it shouldn't show much
at all. So you'll see there's two different parts. We have the lining section, the fold
on the lining and then you have your main fabric fold right here. All you're going to
do is you have your needle and your thread. You're going to tie a knot at the end of the
thread. I'm just going to come on the inside fold of my lining. Not in my main fabric just
my lining only so my needle comes up right on the fold.
There's my knot. I'm just going to tuck my knot in there. All right so now I'm on the
lining. Now, I'm just going to grab a little bit of my fabric fold. Try to keep my hand
out of the way, and then I would go back and grab a little bit of the lining so I'm just
basically going back and forth between the two folds, so after the lining, I'll grab
a little bit of the fabric and then back to the lining until you get to the end, and then
you just tie a knot, and don't forget to do the other side as well.
Step 6, prepare back and back lining sections in the same manner as front and front lining.
Essentially, what we're going to be doing is taking our back pieces which is pattern
piece number two, and we're going to do the exact same thing we just did for the front
pieces. So from this piece you'll make sure that you cut out two of your lining pieces,
and then two of your fabric pieces so you should have four pieces total. Again we have
all of these marks that you need to transfer on your side seam here so this has like a
slight curve there's going to be two big circles that's going to be below the double notch,
so just like we did before you're going to be doing a stitch at the seam allowance right
through the top circle and through the bottom circle and stop.
If we move this out of the way here's my circles. I did a stitch and just like before you're
going to go ahead and cut right to your stitching line. You're going to do it for your lining.
You're going to do it for your main fabric and again for the main fabric you're going
to take this little flap. You're going to press it to the wrong side of your main fabric,
but for the lining you're going to press it to the right side of the lining.
Then you're going to create your hem on the bottom part of both pieces of the lining so
you're folding over to the wrong side of the lining piece. You're doing it one and a quarter
basting along the bottom fold. Then you're going to tuck the right edge quarter of an
inch and then do a regular stitch right along the top of that fold. Pair each of your back
lining pieces with your back main fabric pieces. The wrong side of the fabric piece is going
to go to the right side of the lining. Then you're going to baste along the side here.
You're not going to baste here where you have your little square notch so starting here,
ending here, starting here going over the top, and down the bottom. Once your pieces
are basted together you're then going to do the slip stitch in this area here. Step 7,
stitch back sections together at center back leaving an opening above large circle. These
are both my back pieces right side facing up, so all I'm going to do is take one. I'm
going to flip it on to the other one, so they're laying on top of each other right sides together.
And you'll see on one side its going to be a straight edge with a triple notch. This
side is more slightly curvy. This straight edge is going to be our center back so what
we're going to be doing is stitching a seam. You're going to do a five-eighth seam starting
at the bottom of the skirt, and you're going to stop when you get to this large circle
above your triple notch so I'm going to do is just pin from here to here, and then go
ahead and do my seam.
I'm starting at my large dot here. And I'm just going to regular width stitch, don't forget
to back stitch making sure I'm at the five-eighths line now. My basting line was done at the
five-eighths line so I'm essentially just stitching right on top of that. After you
finish stitching your seam, make sure that you press your seam open.
Step 8; make five-eighths of an inch, narrow hem on back opening edges tapering to nothing
below large circle. Pivot across seam allowance one quarter inch below large circle one stitching.
We're looking at the inside of the back. You can see that I pressed my seam allowance open.
Remember everything below the circle is the seam we just created that's the one I
pressed open it, and everything above the circle is the opening because we didn't
stitch that part, but I went ahead and pressed above the circle at the same five-eighths
on each side, so it just looks like a press seam allowance.
Now, if you went ahead and press above the circle as well, then the next step is going
to make it a lot easier for you because what we're going to do is on each side this side
and this side you're going to take the raw edge, and you're going to fold it so the raw
edge touches the crease of where your seam allowance is. So all I'm doing is just lifting
it up, folding it to that crease, folding it back. And then I just pin it into place,
and I would do the same thing on this other side as well.
Take the right edge, fold it to the crease I created when I pressed it open and pin it.
Now, you only need to do this,till about the point where you get to the circle, so
if I just got to this point, I can go ahead, fold it, but then this bottom part you can
go ahead and just let it taper back out again. Let me just raise this a little bit, so I
would fold it about here, and then continue to just let the seam allowance just open back
up again because we don't need to keep folding it down.
The next part what they want you to do is on one side let's start with this side. Pretend
like this is all pinned. I'm just going to stitch, a regular width stitch, don't forget
to back stitch right along this fold line that we're just creating so start here, and
get a stitch right along the fold line. Now, here's my circle so I'm going to continue
stitching along the fold line until I get a quarter of an inch below the circle so I
probably stop about here, and then you're going to stitch across, and this side should
also be folded as well.
You're going to pivot and then you're going to stitch right along the fold line on the
other side until you get to the top and then go ahead and back stitch again. I've already
been stitching along one side and you can see I'm just getting to my large dot here.
So I'm going to continue about a quarter of an inch pass that of course along the folded
edge here. And it doesn't have to be perfect because it looks like its about a quarter
of an inch right there its good.
You could see I leave my needle in my fabric. I left at my foot and then I just turned the
fabric and I'm going to just so sew to the other side until I get to the other fold about
right there put my needle in the fabric with my foot, turn the fabric again and then I'm
just going to stitch up until I get to the other side.
Step 9, reinforce side edges the side front and back to the large circles. Clip to large
circles, reinforce and clip side front and back lining in the same manner. We're going
to be working with piece 3 now. And like piece number 2 you should have two cut out off your
lining, two cut out off your main fabric. We're going to be doing the same for all 4
pieces. You will see that we have the large circles here just like we did before I mean
you guys should be experts at this right now.
You're going to be doing your stitching at your five-eighths mark between the circles.
You could see I have already done here and here, and then you're going to clip to your
stitching right at the circles. Step 10, turn seam allowances of side front and side front
lining to inside between clips. All you're going to do is you're going to turn your little
flaps right here so its right where the stitching is going to be on the fold to the wrong side
of the fabric. Now, before when we did this for the lining you flipped it over to the
right side in this particular case for all four of these pieces you turn it to the wrong
side and you press it.
Step 11, hem lower edge your side front and back lining in the same manner as front lining.
You're going to take your lining pieces the pattern piece number three and just like with
the other lining pieces, you're going to hem it up one and a quarter inches so I'm folding
it up to the wrong side. This is the bottom of it. You're going to baste across the fold.
Then you're going to turn over with the raw edge the quarter of an inch and then do a
regular stitch right next to that fold line.
Step 12, with right size together a pin lining to side front and back, stitch upper edge,
trim under stitch lining. You're going to pair your lining with your main fabric placing
the pieces right side together so the right side of the lining is going to the right side
of your fabric, and you're going to have two sets of these, so here is one set. All I want
you to do is stitch from here along this curve to here at the five-eighth inch seam allowance
which I have already done.
Move this guy out of the way. So there you can see my stitches there at the top. After
you finish stitching it all you need to do is trim your seam allowance because we're
going to be doing a under stitch up here. So let me go ahead and trim this. And I leave
about an eighth of an inch on. Now, also because its curved. What I also like to do is I'll
clip little notches into the curved areas being careful and not to cut into your stitches
because we don't want to create any holes.
And then we'll move to the machine so I can show you what an under stitch is. Here's the
seam I just created. Here's the trim seam and my little notches so we're going to do
an under stitch right in the same area. I'm going to pull apart my lining at my main fabric.
So here's my lining in my main fabric and you could see where they're stitched together
you're going to make sure that your seam allowance again my seam allowance it's going to stay
close, and its going to stay underneath the lining, so you're just going to pull all your
seam allowance so it lies underneath and the lining is going in this direction.
And then we're going to start stitching on the side of the lining right along that seam
line, but make sure these stitches are on the lining side, and it doesn't switch over
to your fabric side because we want to make sure that our stitches go not only through
the lining, but also through the seam allowances underneath it. For this, I'm going to do a
regular width stitch. You can go ahead and back stitch on both ends, and because its just
a little curvy I would take it slow, but that's basically all you need to do in order to create
an under stitch.
Step 13; turn the lining to inside press baste raw edges together above and below clips.
Slip stitch, press edges together between clips. We're basically going to take our lining.
We're going to flip it over to the other side of our main fabric so all this area up here
is enclosed and between them, and we're looking at the right side of both pieces. So you're
going to make sure that you're going to press all along this top part right here, so your
main fabric is on this side, and your lining is on the correct side. And everything is
nice and neat up here. We have a nice crisp curve, then what you're going to do is you're
going to baste the sides here not where we had these little notches, but just from here
to here same on the side and then from here down.
And I've already had one done. So this is my other one because you have two of them,
and you could see my basting stitches and then all you need to do to finish this up
is you're going to slip stitch these areas. Step 14, reinforce ends of sleeve through
the large circles, clip to large circles. Stay stitch side edges of sleeve about small
circles as shown, turn into seam allowance between clips press.
We're going to -- now we would be working with piece number 4, so this is the sleeve
you should have cut out to out of your main fabric and you know there's a variety of marks
on this pattern piece. Right now we have these two big marks on both size, so we have two
circles on this side and two circles on the other side as well. Just like we did with
their other pieces, you're going to want us stitch through each of these circles, so I would
start here. Stitch through and there using your regular stitch and back stitch because
this is where we're reinforcing that one side.
You also notice a small circle here on this side, and you also have one above the double
notch on the other side as well. So you're going to start here and you're going to do
your stay stitch which is you're going to do a back stitch. You're going to do a regular
stitch at the seam allowance five-eighths of an inch, and you're just going to stitch
till you get to the top, and then do another back stitch, so if I remove this pattern
you can see I've already done it.
This is where I started the small circle. Just did a regular stitch five-eighth seam
allowance, stopped here. I did it between my large circles here, and just like we did
before you're going to clip, and you're going to turn it to the wrong side of your fabric
and press it, so you're going to do it on this side, and you're also going to do it
on that side over there.
Steps 15 and 16 are for view A. So we're going to skip on to Step 17 to view lower edge of
sleeve, stitch one half inch from raw edge. Turn in and press edge alongside stitching
as shown. Trim very close to stitching. Turn it again along trim edge stitching into place.
We're going to take this one part at a time. So the first thing is you're going to get
both your sleeves. We have this wide curve at the bottom of each sleeve piece, and on
both of them what you're going to do is you're going to stitch a half inch from the raw edge
so you can see my stitches here.
They're half inch away not five-eighths a half inch. We're going to start here; you
know we're going to stitch from one end to the other one. Once you're done with that,
you're going to fold over to the wrong side of your fabric, so that the stitching that
you just did is going to be right alongside this fold line. You can still see the stitching
because its going to be right next to the fold line, but you're just going to press
up the whole length of your hem.
Next, you're going to trim to your pressed up hem, so I have already started here, and
this is the part that's been pressed at, but you can see that I cut pretty close to my
stitch which is right here. So I'm now leaving about an eighth of an inch. I will see if
you leave about an eighth to a quarter on there that should be fine. And then what you're
going to do is you're going to take this part that's left, and you're going to fold it over
again, so its going to be a very narrow hem here, and I've already started here.
All you're going to do next is just stitched right along that top fold line there, and
you're going to do it for both sleeves. Steps 18 to 21 are for view B, so we're going to
skip to Step 22. Pin wrong side of sleeves to right side of side front and back matching
symbols baste raw edges together below small circles, slip stitch, press edges together
between clips. Here's one of my sleeves and you're going to be doing this for both sleeves,
but I'm just going to show you as an example for this one.
I have wrong side facing up. I'm going to grab my side front back so that's -- remember
this little piece that we did which was piece number 3. So for both the sleeve we have this
little square notches and we have the square notches as well on our piece number 3 here.
This is what we're going to match up, so you're going to take 3, you know turn it over so
the right side is facing down to the wrong side of the sleeve.
This is the right side face down to the wrong side of the sleeve. I'm going to take it over
to one side matching up the square notch. Obviously, its not going to come all the way
to the top. Now, we have a single notch on this side, a double notch on this side. So
when I flip this over so the right side is to the wrong side. I need to make sure I have
a single notch on this side, and a double notch on this side. If its flipped it just
means it goes with the other sleeve, so that's the only thing you need to pay attention to.
So I'm going to match up the square notches. I got to pin them, and get then make sure
that these notches match up so you might to do some adjustment. Basically, what you're
going to do is you're going to pin this side here all the way here. After this side is
pinned, you're going to go ahead and take this side, and you're going to match up with
the other side of the sleeve. So again I matching my double notch with my double notch,
the square notch with the square notch and pinning from the bottom of the sleeve to here
and from here to the top portion here.
Now, just like you did with all your other pieces once these are pinned. You can go ahead
and baste the pieces together you can just fall on the same basting stitch that you have
here on your lining. Do the same thing here so you're just basting that one side of the
sleeve with the side front back. Now, for these areas again you're going to slip stitch
the folded edges together.
Step 23, pin sleeve and side front back to front back. Matching symbols, clipping sleeve
where necessary above the small circles. Stitch above and below clips as shown. Press seams
toward front and back. We're now going to attach our sides with the sleeves to the back
of the dress and the front of the dress, so I'm going to and this is my back and I have
the right side facing up and I'm going to grab my two sides so here is one side and
here is my sleeves already attached to it, and then I'm going to grab my other one.
And if you look at the back of course we have the square notch just here on each side of
the back we have a double notch and a double notch. So when I have my sides, right side
facing down towards the right side of my back. I want to make sure I have the same thing,
so I'm looking here at my side. I have a double notch on this side I have a double notch on
the inside of both of these I have a single notch so they're on the right side. All I'm
going to do, I'm going to match the square notch. I'm going to match my double notches,
the bottom of my number three piece here the side.
This outer part is going to go to the bottom of the back, and your lining piece should
also match up. Any symbols that you have on the side should also match. Now, if we look
at this portion here now, this is the top of the sleeve. It actually fits perfectly
with the side seam of our back here. So we're going to pin from here all the way down here,
and I would do the same thing on the side. So I would lay it out the top side of the
sleeve comes up, and matches the top part of the back here.
So you're going to start with a regular stitch don't forget to back stitch. Your five-eighth
then seam allowance stitch here, stop. Start again here. Stitch down and I would do the
same thing on here. Now, we for this particular case we're not slip stitching the square notches.
So what you're going to have here, you're actually going to have a hole in your seam,
and what this is for? Its for when we create the fabric belt, you're able to weave it through
the dress, so that's going to be the hole for the belt.
For the curved seams, don't forget for any curve seams we do you're going to cut little
triangle notches into the seams just be careful not to cut into your stitches, so I'm going
to go ahead and pin this all together and we're going to return like I stitch to end,
and then I'm going to show you the next part of the step.
Let's pretend I already stitched these sides on to the back. So the next stoop would be
to open us up, so I'm looking at the front or the right side of the top of the sleeve
and the side here. Now, this is all of the rest of my sleeve. I'm just kind of trying
to keep it out of the way, so I don't accidentally stitch it, got to bring this side out as well.
So here's my back. Here's my two sleeves. Here's my two size, and you can you could
see my square notches right here.
I'm going to grab my front dress. And I'm going to flip it so its going to be right
side facing down, and then I'm just going to do the same thing. Could I match up the
top of the front with the side of the sleeve, the square notches are going to match. The
regular notch is going to match and the bottom is going to match here. After this is all
pinned, I'm going to drag this over to this side, and do the same thing again. And then
just like we did with our back you're going to do a regular five-eighth inch seam here
and up here again we're not slip stitching the square notches here because that is where
our belt is going to weave through when we finish the dress.
Step 24, stay stitch neck edge as shown. So now we're dealing with the neckline of our
dress, so now its all starting to come together. We have a front. We have the top of the sleeves.
We have the back all they wanted to do is you're going to start on one end of the back
you're going to stitch all the way around and then end here, and you just need to stitch
at the half inch line go ahead and do your back stitches and just do a regularly stitch.
Step 25; open up one folded edge bias tape. Press lightly. Here is the sample of single
fold bias tape and you can see its just folded over on each side. All they want you to do
is just take one side. It doesn't matter which side and you're going to unfold it.
And then you're just going to lightly pressing. You can see I have already done it here. You
just want to make sure that your iron is not too hot because we still want to be able to
slightly see the crease because that's going to come in handy. And our next step, you can
also cut your bias strip so it's a little bit bigger than the total of your neckline
so you don't have to do the whole package as you don't probably need that much.
Step 26, pin bias tape to neck edge placing crease along the seam line extending and three-eighths
on an inch beyond opening edges. Stitch along crease, trim garment seam even with bias tape.
We're now going to attach our bias tape that we just pressed open to the right side of
our garment. So I turned my dress right outside out, and you can see I have already started
pinning and give a start at one end and pin it all the way around. And you just want to
make sure that both ends you extend the bias tape, three-eighths of an inch pass the end
of the garment. So from here to here its three-eighths of an inch and I would do the same thing on
this side as well.
So the bias tape, the side that you can see the other fold like here is my other fold
right here this is the wrong side of the bias tape so the right side of the bias tape its
pinned to the right side of my garment and the crease that we still have because we didn't
press too hard is going to go at the five-eighths mark of the neckline. Now, if you have your
old basting stitches which I still have from way back in the beginning I can use that as
a guideline because I did that at the five-eighths line, so I'm just going to follow along with
that, and then I'm going to pin it.
Once its all pinned all the way around you're going to again use the crease as a guideline
because you're going to start here using our regular width stitch, stitch all the way around
the neckline and you're going to be right in the groove of that crease. Here is a little
bit of a closer look of the bias tape here you can see my crease so, we're just going
to try to stay right in that crease as best as we can going all the way around the neckline
and don't forget the back stitch. Lastly trim your seam allowance so it gets just to
the top of the bias tape
Step 27 turn bias tape to inside turning under ends. Press baste in the place; slip stitch
ends on outside stitch close to basted edge. I turned my dress wrong side out again. Here's
the bias tape we just attached. All they want you to do is on each end, this end, and this
end you're going to fold up your bias tape. It should fold naturally because its right
on that crease that we stitched. You're going to take the ends. You're going to fold them
inward so we have a nice clean folded edge here on the outside and then you're going
to fold this whole thing on to the inside of the garment.
So, on the inside you have the full width of the bias tape and on the outside you just
see your main fabric. Your seam line is right on that fold line so you're going to go ahead
and do this for the whole neckline and then go ahead and start pinning this into place
because the next part is after its pinned, you're going to baste down real close to this
folded edge all along the bottom of the bias tape.
Here you can see my basting stitch on the right side of the garment. So all I would
do now is flipping your garment right outside out, you're going to do a regular stitch right
along side that basting stitch. That's going to be your top stitch right there, and that's
going to finish off the collar. I would just do it on the inside of the basting stitch
since I did this right on the fold so this would be right next to the fold line. Also
you're going to want to slip stitch the ends here because these are still opened on this
side and on this side so I just put a few slip stitches on there too.
Dress D continues with Step 32. Stitch lower ruffle sections together at ends to gather
upper edge of the ruffle as shown. We're going to be working with piece number 7 so there's
three of these that you should have cut out off your fabric on the fold. So when you open
it up, it was long one long strip. So you're going to take all three pieces and we'll just
take two for now, but what you're going to do is you're going to lay them right side
together, so right side to right side and you're going to stitch the short end then
after its stitched we'll take this end here.
So this is one of the ends, and one of them that stitch together. I'm going to grab my
other one in the place that right side together. Go ahead and stitch your five-eighths and
seam allowance. Now, at this end of the third one, the short end is now going to be stitched
to the end of the first one. So basically they didn't get one big circle of these
little strips. To finish this step, the last thing we need to do is to create our gathering
stitches so that is creating two basting stitches.
You have one at the five-eighths line and one at the three-eighths line and you're just
going to make sure that you use the largest stitch in your machine. There's two rows at
the top of the ruffle piece all the way around. This is going to help us gather the top and
create the ruffle. Now, I start one of the sets in my stitches at the seam line. I have
a seam line right here, so I go ahead until I get to the next seam line, and then I stop
and then I start again on the seam line after that one. That way you're not just pulling
on one set of threads all the way around the ruffle, but you can just do pieces at a time,
so it just makes a little bit easier.
Step 33, hem lower as you've ruffled in the same manner as ruffle 5. Essentially what
we're going to be doing on the bottom of our ruffle piece, remember the top has the gathering
stitches and now we're looking at the bottom portion of the long edge of the ruffle. We're
going to be doing the rolled hem, and this is the same hem that we created for our sleeve.
So you're going too, and I have that wrong side facing up. You're going to stitch a half
inch from the bottom edge of the right edge of your fabric, then you're going to fold
it up, so you can just see the stitches right here near to the fold line and you're going
to press it.
Then you're going to trim your seam allowance which I started doing over here. So you're
leaving just a little bit left near the stitching. From there you're just going to roll it up.
You can go ahead and pin it or press it if you wish, and then we're going to stitch right
along that top fold line there completing the hem.
Step 34, pin ruffle to lower edge of dress placing one seam at center back and remaining
seams at large circles on front that just gathers baste stitch, stitch again one quarter
inch away in seam allowance. Trim close to stitching, press seam toward dress. We're
now going to attach our ruffle to the bottom of our dress, so this is my dress. This is
the bottom. I just have to dress facing upside down and its right side facing out. Now you'll
notice on the dress front. This is the front that you have a large circle here, a large
circle here.
In the ruffle piece there should be three seams, so we're going to match one seam from
the ruffle with this circle, the second seam with this circle, and the third with the center
back. Now, it doesn't matter what seam you start with. Any seam would do. You just need
to know seam, seam, and then seam. So I'm going to pull in my ruffle piece, and we're
going to match right side of ruffle with the right side of dress and the side that has
the gathering stitches that raw edge is going to line up with the raw edge of the dress,
so I could have just find a seam here in my ruffle.
And I have one right here. Here's the seam. So I'm just going to match it up with one
large circle or with the center back seam. It doesn't matter where you start. Grab
some pins here and pin it in the place then I'm going to find my next seam, so I would
seam right here going to pin it to the next circle or the back seam, and then I'm just
going to kind of see how it fits, and it seems like it's a little big so that's why we
created the gathering stitches, so I'm just going to pull them out here.
And all you're going to do is pull this stitching and its going to gather us some more. And
that's what's going to create the ruffle look. So you're just going to have to keep pulling
it until it starts cinching in and fitting the area between these two large circles,
and then I would do the same thing by finding my other seam, and matching it to the back,
and then gathering as well, and gathering this area until the whole ruffle is pinned
and attached.
Once its all pinned, all you need to do is first I would baste just attaching the ruffle
to the skirt, so then you can take out the pins after you baste the ruffle to the bottom
of this dress, you can stitch your five-eighths inch seam allowance, then go up a quarter
so then that's going to be three-eighth, so stitch it five-eighths, stitch at a quarter
inch seam allowance. I'm sorry three-eighth seam allowance, and then you're going to trim
your seam allowance here, so its just above that second stitch, and then press your seam
allowance towards the dress.
Step 35, so button to right back opening that marking. Make thread loop on opening
edge, opposite button as shown large enough for the button to pass through. Now, we're
looking at the top of the back of the dress. This is our opening to the back. And this
is our front dress. The dress is right side out now if you were to look at the original
pattern piece for two, you would notice that there was an X at the very top of the pattern.
This is my X right here. My ink kind of bled so it doesn't look like it.
What I'm going to do is on the right hand side I'm going to place my button because
that's where its going to be stitched on. Now, you can either use a shank button or
a flat button. It doesn't really matter and if you use a flat button you can either
sew it on by hand, or use your sewing machine. I'm going to sew it on by hand, so I have
my needle and thread here. I'm just going to make sure that when I'm stitching it, I'm
coming up from underneath the back here so my knot is going to be hidden on the inside
of the dress, then I'm going to go through the holes about five or six times to make
sure its secure and then finish off by tying the knot in the back again.
On the other side of the opening I'm now going to create a thread loop, so then I'm able
to loop it through the button, so I'm first going to see about where I want to start my
thread loop. I'm going to start it at the bottom of the button about here, so I'm going
to grab my needle and thread, and I'm using just a long piece of thread that I folded
in half and tied the knot at the end, so its little bit thicker than normal. All right,
so I'm actually going to turn this over to the back, and I'm just going to go through
coming up about where I went the bottom of my loop to start, and pull it through.
So you could see now my knot is going to be hidden on the inside and just to make it a
little bit more secured I'm going to go through this point where my thread came out a couple
of times just to anchor the point where I'm going to do it, just to make it a little bit
stronger, okay. So now that's done, so now what I'm going to do is I'm going to start
here at the top, and I'm going to bring my needle so it comes out at this bottom point.
I'm trying to find out. There we go.
Now, I'm not going to pull all the way through because I want to create the bastes for my
loop. So I'm just putting my finger there to hold it, and then I'm going to test it
to make sure that that's going to be big enough for my button, so it could probably be a little
bit smaller. All right so that looks good. So now once I have that, I'm going to do the
same thing again. So I'm going to start by going at the top portion of my loop and then
coming out at this point down here.
Just be careful not to pull this through anymore because we don't want to make it any smaller.
You know once that's done we can start the other part of it. Okay that should be good.
So I'm going to put my finger through my loop to make sure it does getting smaller as I
bring the other loop over it, so they're going to be about the same size. Here they go.
All right so now we're going to stitch around the loops in order to make a single loop so
you're going to come through both the loops and you're going to be creating another little
loop right here, and all I'm going to do is bring my needle through that loop just be
really careful everything stay straight, and you just essentially tying the knot down here
at the bottom so there's my first part. Then I'm going go through the loop. You create
another loop, so this loop right here and I'm going to go through it, and that's going
to create second knot, and I'm just going to keep doing this until I go from one end
of the loop to the other end.
So I'll show you one more time. Through the loop, you create another loop here, and you're
going to go through with that loop. So you just tying the knot, making sure that the
knot is next to the one that you just created before like that. So as you can see my three
knots right there and how is binding all my strands together you're basically just doing
a blanket stitch around your thread loop here. So I'm going to start here. Then I'm going
to finish here.
Step 36, stitch belt sections together leaving one end open. So now we're going to be working
with our last piece. We're going to be doing the belt and then we're done with our dress,
so this is going to be piece number 8. Now you should cut three out of your main fabric
out of this piece. Basically, all we're going to be doing is taking all three sections,
stitching them together at one end in order to create one long strip which would be the
belt, so I have two of my pieces here. I'm going to place them at one short end right
side to right side, just over a little bit.
So, I'm going to go ahead and pin the short ends stitch a five-eighth seam allowance.
Press my seams open. Open this up. Grab my last piece same thing right size together
at the short end, pin and stitch the five-eighth seam allowance and then press that open, and
then that's it, and you would have one long strip.
Step 37, with right size together fold belt along fold line, stitch leaving an opening,
trim. You got to take your belt strip and you're going to lay it all out nice and flat
right side facing up. You're going to take one raw edge, fold it basically in half in
order to meet the other raw edge, and you're going to pin all along this side because this
is where we're going to stitch.
I've started it, and you can see that even on the short ends, I went ahead and pinned
it because what we're going to do is you're going to stitch your five-eighth seam allowance
from the top fold line down towards this bottom edge. You got a pivot, and then you're going
to stitch across the bottom portion here.
Now, the thing is we need to leave an opening because we need to eventually after we stitch
this flip our belt right side out, so for me what I like to do is I'm just picking a point
in the middle of my belt. I'm going to take a couple of pins, make them form an X. And
then let's say about three or four inches away from that I'm going to do another set.
This is going to be an indicator to me where I do not sew, so I'm going to be stitching
along, come to my first X, stop, back stitch between these Xs, no stitching so that I'm
going to start here stitch along the bottom edge again. Come all the way to the end, pivot
and stitch up to the fold line. After you finish stitching it, you can go ahead and
trim your seam allowance, so you could trim it just to about your stitch line. Be careful
not to cut into your stitch line.
Last step, Step 38, turn press slip stitch opening so you're going to take your belt
and from the opening you're going to flip the whole thing right side out, and you're
going to press it. Now, with the opening I'm just turning in the raw edge on each side
the five-eighths of an inch, and then you're going to pin the opening close, and all that's
left to do is just to slip stitch the opening and then your belt is complete, and your dress
is complete.
Don't forget to remove all your basting stitches and your fabric markers. This has
been McCall 6690. We know that any little girl who is lucky enough to receive this dress
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