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Hello my friends, our today's subject is a great problem of the Porsche 944
I.e. the fuel lines in the engine
In principle this is a construction error of Porsche
A clever Porsche engineer mounted the fuel line over the exhaust manifold
If you have a leakage, here somebody used already some adhesive tape,
the fuel runs over the manifold, and the car burns down
Don't ask me, why the specialist hasn't used the other side of the car for the fuel line
The return line is fixed with a simple hose clamp
It is a little stuck, remove the clamp completely
In order to have better access pull back the clamp
Pull the hose, I put a rag below, some fuel will run out
Don't do this at a hot engine
The adhesive tape from the last botches job
Take care that no dirt enters when working at injection systems
I close it with a little aluminum foil and I fix it with tape
The fuel hose opens at the nut here
I have to counter somewhere because the whole damper is loose
For such a job you'll need flare-nut wrenches
With a normal open-end wrench you have no chance
Some fool forgot to screw it to the mount,
Now we have to look for a possibility to fix it
I'll try it with a small Allen key through the holes while slackening the nut
And it is loose
Now it's easy to remove the line
For the missing nut at the mount, I found some spare
By the way, it has a M16 x 1.5 thread
Fasten the nut
Very important, close also the line here, it is the inlet
Unfortunately the fuel lines disappear at this model under the wheel housing liner without further screw fitting
Thus the wheel housing liner has to be dismounted
In order to do this, the wheel has to be removed
Slacken the bolts before jacking
I jack the car at the point for the vehicle jack
I put the car on some solid wood at the jack point on the carrier
Remove the wheel
The wheel housing liner has several of this strange plastic nuts on studs
Here is another one
The third one is behind the strut on a tab
The 4th is up near the strut bearing
2 screws are at the lower end, this one is hard to access
If they don't want, you may dismount them with the mounts together
It's down here and has a plastic nut
2 sheet metal screws are in front here
The second one in the corner
The last bolt is here in the corner, and it has another size
8 mm, the other has a size of 10 mm
It has a metric thread, you can't mix it up
Pull the wheel housing liner here
Pull it slowly out of the fold and around the strut
And it is possible to remove the part in this inclination, the same way it will enter again
The wheel housing liner had to be removed because there are 2 mounts of the fuel lines below
They have special plastic bolt, with a little care it's possible to use 4 mm Allen key
And you can remove the bolts
Remove the clamps and the lines are free
Under the car are 2 more mounts
We have to remove them, for having enough space for cutting the lines
When the Allen key is in, you must slacken the plastic bolts with great care
When it's loose, you won
One more and we have it
The breather line is connected here, no problem
Open the hose clamps
It goes badly, there is some underbody protection in the thread
Remove also the other clamp
The new hose we'll be for free
For cutting the line, you'll need such a very small pipecutter
I'll cut the line here to remove the front part, and then we'll see where so set the final cut
The return line has no non-return valve, thus the fuel runs out until the tank is empty
Pour the fuel in a spare can
After cutting the line, it's possible to remove it from the wheel housing
At this place is rather narrow
Using a little tender force it's possible to remove the line
I'll cut the other line near the place for removing and measuring it
Only a little fuel runs now out the line
And thread it out behind the brake line
Thread in the new line in opposite direction, i.e. bottom up
Here we are through, if we manage it also here, the job will be done
The line is more or less in place
We have to see later how all fits together
Before fastening, I thread in also the other line
And also under the car
When working at the fuel system all must be very clean
The lines are at the other side still open, I clean them with pressured air
Then I start to mount the lines starting with the hose clamp
The return line, it isn't critical the pressure isn't high
I'll fasten it later, when I'm sure that all fits downstairs
The same procedure with the other line
Remove the protection
The damper we fixed already
Screw the line to the damper
Again I'll fasten it later, when all is ready
I install the lines from top to bottom
This line enters here in the mount, and the other line here in the rubber
And the other mount is placed here
Coat the clamps with vaselin, this is rust protection and it protects the rubber
Mount the clamp and fix it with the bolt, but don't fasten it yet
The other mount also, and we continue below the car
Under the car I'll connect the line with such cutting ring screw joint
This ring is compressed by the screw
This one is original from Porsche, you find it in the PET
The one for the return line I had to buy in a hardware store
The length of the connector has to be taken into account, when cutting the lines
The line enters 7 mm in the connector
The line has a crank, either I make the same crank on the other line, or I just use it, as it is
I'll cut here near the mount, then the rest has place to bend until the next mount
Thus I cut very near to the flanging
The flanging I can't use together with cutting ring screw joint
Tighten, rotate and tighten again
The cutter is working its way slowly through the material
The advantage of the cutter is a clean cut without chips
The screw can be removed and here comes our cutting ring screw joint
Like this it will work
I mark the position on the other line
The distance for the screw joint is 14 mm
Work precisely
and then tighten directly to avoid slipping
Now it's through
Let's check the angle, this will work perfectly
The cutting ring of the screw joint from Porsche has different diameters
The ring must be pressed from the thicker side
Put the screw and then the ring with the thicker side pointing to the screw
The other we mounted already
Put the screw joint and fasten it
The same procedure with the other line
At the other screw joint we have to detect the dimension, it is a 8 mm joint and not a 10 mm joint
The line enters again 7 mm
Then we need the total length, i.e. 20 mm
Hereof we subtract 2 times 7 mm, thus this connector needs only 6 mm space
I mark the 6 mm
One turn - tighten
Tighten and rotate
And the line is cut
Put the screw on the line, the same on the other side
At this screw joint the rings are symmetrical, you need not to take care
Put the ring and the screw joint in between
Press together and fasten it
Fasten with care the connector cuts slowly in the material
The same with the other connector
Remain calm
They cut in the material, this needs time
For the breather line I cut a fitting piece hose
Connect the breather lines
Still it doesn't enter, I open the clamp a little more
Fasten the clamps
We start from the rear to mount the lines
Put the clamp
Search for the thread in the mount and fasten it
Don't tighten too much, that's enough
Insert the lines in the rubber mounts
Take care that every line is at its place in the rubber
The holes in the rubber have different diameters, the thick line is here
The thin is here, but it isn't well in place - now it's fine
Put the clamp and the screw
Adjust and we look for the other mount
This is in, this too
Now the clamp must enter
This was the last one
you see the crank isn't bad the connector is in good distance to the floor
Fasten also this one
The hose must be completely at the nozzle, the clamp must be in the hose
Fasten with care, not too much to avoid cutting in the rubber
Fasten the other side, here we need the flare-nut wrench
Fasten properly
For testing we need some fuel in the tank
Let's fill some drops in
At the test run, we have to take into account, that the engine will not start directly
Switching to ignition won't help, the pump runs only when the engine is cranking at the 944
Good, switch it off
Insert the wheel housing liner
Over the brake and around the strut
Under the plastic nuts come the large washers
They protect the plastic from breaking
One plastic nut I removed also here
One sheet metal screw has been here
Here has been the metric bolt, the only one
Down here has been another sheet metal screw
Just put all the screws, we'll fasten them when all are in place
One sheet metal screw was here and the other one here
This was the last one, we can start to fasten all screws
Finally, fasten the plastic nuts with a very low torque
In the top, near the strut bearing is also one - and the last one here
Don't forget the metrical bolt - here the momentum is a little higher
It's no plastic
It has a very long thread, enjoy it
Now the wheel can be mounted, before I coat the hub with grease
The hub is made of aluminum, thus you shouldn't use copper paste, I user ceramic paste
Fasten the nuts by hand
Fasten the nuts following a star pattern, hold the wheel by hand
Torque will do later
Jack it a little more to remove the wood
Remove the wood
Let the car back on its wheels
Fasten them in a star pattern, here, here, here, here
and the soviet star is complete
This has been an important repair, a fuel leakage at this place is very dangerous
It's better to have an extinguisher in the car
Bye, bye, see you in the next video