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Older Parker squeeze-filling converters use rubber sacs that eventually harden or leak
but don't worry:
they are easy to fix with only a few simple tools.
The methods shown here will work for all metal-bodied Parker converters.
The sac on this converter is rock-hard. To replace it, the end plug has to come out.
To protect the plug
we insert the tapered shaft of this awl.
It's a nice press-fit, which will keep the plug from collapsing
when we grip it with our padded pliers.
First, though, we want to apply some heat.
The heat should be directed onto the metal
rather than the end plug.
It doesn't take much; once the end of the converter is hot to the touch,
grip the plug firmly
with your padded pliers and wiggle it out.
Once the plug is out,
remove the old sac
from the converter body.
Make sure you get all of it out.
You may also have to clean off remnants of the old sac from the end plug.
I normally use a much blunter knife for this job: a blade that is too pointed
and too sharp tends to dig in, when what you really want is more of a chipping,
peeling, and scraping action.
The file is used
to strip away any clinging bits, it shouldn't take off any material from the
sac *** itself.
Keep the plug turning as you stroke the file.
You can get a good view of the crimps that held in the end plug here.
Now to install a new sac.
The size is 16, tapered.
Mark the correct length,
then deduct
for the thickness of the plug, and cut to length.
We'll skip over attaching the sac to the plug. Just remember to use shellac
and give it enough time to set good and hard.
Once set, it's time for reassembly. Put a little talc on the sac
and a bit of silicone grease where it stretches over the plug
to ease reinstallation.
Make sure the crimps line up on the converter housing and the plug,
then brace the plug once again with the awl
and wiggle it back in place.
I did this one cold,
but it's really better to warm the plug a bit first, especially when the crimping is deep. That's it -- good as new.