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Hi everyone and welcome to the third and last part of this building review.
In this video we will finish the assembly process, apply decals and do some light weathering.
Hopefully it will be finished and look nice.
I already peeled off the masking tape from the canopy, i have to say it does not look bad.
Quite nice actually, i did not expect that. I´m a bit proud of it to be honest.
Now we can deal with the decals. In this bowl i have some lukewarm water.
The decals dissolve in lukewarm water quite nicely and much faster.
With a scissor i cut out the decal i need and put it into the water for few seconds.
On the surface where the decal will sit on i apply Micro Sol decal softener.
It will help the decal to adapt to the surface perfectly.
The gloss varnish we sprayed over the model previously helps a lot to prevent "silvering" on the decals.
Thats a common issue. However, the decal softener helps a lot aswell, it shouldn´t be a problem.
You have to move the decal into the right position quickly.
Applying so many decals is something i don´t like about aircraft models.
In this case you have to stay focused and don´t try to apply them all at once.
No one can do that, take your time and make a break if necessary.
As you can see the decals adapted nicely to the surface, thats the result we wanted to achieve.
They look a bit like painted on now.
Now we have to add one final detail - the antenna.
We still have a stretched sprue from the previous video which we will use as an antenna.
I recommend to use instant glue, it works much faster and such thin parts get a very strong bonding with the surface.
It does not matter at all how much tension the antenna wire has, as soon as it is dry i´ll show you a clever trick.
How to achieve a strained antenna wire?
There is a simple solution, take a lighter or any other heat source and place the model above the flame.
The hot air will reach the antenna and it will start to span.
Thats very helpful if you use the stretched sprue technique for the rigging of biplanes.
I hope you can see it properly.
Its very easy and quick. Just make sure there is enough distance between the flame and the wire,
otherwise the plastic thread is melting immediately.
Alright, now we can add a subtle weathering to the aircraft model.
I always start the weathering process with a dark wash to accentuate the recessed details.
I mixed my own wash in this bottle here, its odourless turpentine and black oil paint.
I recommend to apply it with a big soft brush.
The wash runs into the recessed areas and accentuates them.
We need some chipping aswell, i´ll do them with a thin brush and Matt99 "aluminium"
We won´t overdo it, we just apply some dots and scratches here and there, especially along the edges of the flaps.
It will create that cool "used" look.
Alright, we reached the end of this building review again.
I hope you enjoyed it and maybe you learned something new.
For me it was very interesting for sure, the kit wasn´t easy at all, sometimes i had to struggle with it a lot.
The nostalgic aspect of this project was very funny and interesting for sure.
I can remember that i painted the struts down here on the model i built with my dad 16 years ago with some kind of metallic paint,
maybe silver or iron, i´m not sure. It looks pretty awesome and my sister was extremely impressed by that.
She thought it was metal but it was plastic and she asked me how i did that. That was quite funny.
Of course it is quite a shame that i can´t find my first model anymore, i don´t know where it is.
If it comes to the surface again i´ll show it to you for sure, you have to see that. Its incredible how terrible this model is.
My second attempt looks much better for sure!
Thats it, now you will see some detail pictures of the model and some more nostalgia models i found on my hard disk.
Thank you very much for watching, see you in the next video, your Hamilkar Barkas.