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BODICE - VEST WITH PEPLUM OR WITHOUT
Based on the following pattern of bodice
we can construct
dresses (the upper part), blouses
tops
shirts
vests
jackets
coats etc.
How do you like it? I think that is very classy and cute at the same time
This pattern is based on my measurements..........
Front waist length 46cm
Bust point 29cm
Bust 96 cm.
Waist 86 cm.
Hips 104 cm.
Back length 44 cm.
Back width 44 cm.
Bust separation 20 cm.
Let's start FRONT
Let's recall how we can start sketching our pattern for the bodice.
we design on the right side
a vertical line from point 1 to point 2
equal to the front waist length
From the point 1
draw a horizontal line 30 cm to the left and mark it as point 3.
To form the front neckline
we measure 8cm from the point 1
to the left (marked as point 5) and again from point 1
go down another 8cm (mark as point 4)
Join them with a curve ruler.
From point 1,
we go down towards the bust point and mark as 6.
From point 6 design a horizontal line equal to ¼ of the
circumference of the bus and mark as 7.
From point 5
we go left 4cm and mark that point as 8
From this new point 8
we go 9 cm more to the left and we mark it as point 9.
From point 1 we go 26 cm again to the left and mark
the point as 10.
In the bust line from point 6,
we measure 11 cm to the left and mark it as point 11.
Joining point 11 to points 8 and 9 we form the shoulder dart.
From point 2,
we design the waistline, which is equal to ¼ of waist circumference and
mark it as point 12.
From the point 11 we draw a vertical line to the waistline 2-12.
Left and right at the base of the vertical line,
we measure 1cm and mark the points 11a & 11b.
Joining these points with point 11 we form the breast dart.
From point 10 we go down 7 cm and we mark point 13.
We close (flip flop) the shoulder dart and join the points 5-13.
From point 7,
we go upwards 2 cm and mark point 14.
Joining points 13 & 14 with the curve ruler we form the
armpit.
we cut the breast dark until the last line and the dark opens by itself
Our pattern now has this shape.
We cut all around our pattern.
Our half front it's ready.
We continue to design the back pattern.
We start with the right left angle.
The line 1-3 is equal to the back length.
From point 1
descending 1 cm down and 8 cm to the right and mark the
points 4 and 5 respectively.
We join these points with the curve ruler and we form the back neckline.
From point 1 descending below 25cm and we mark
as point 7
from this point to the right we draw a horizontal line and mark as point 8
From point 2 also we draw a horizontal line to the right and mark as 6.
From point 1 we measure 21cm to the right and
from this point going down 4m and mark point 9.
Joining point 6 to point 8.
From point 2 we go to the right 1 cm and join the new point
to point 7.
From point 2 we go to the right 11 cm and mark as 12.
From point 12 we go up 15 cm and mark 13.
We mark two new
points 1cm each left and right to point 12.
Joining point 13 to the new two points we form the back dart.
With a straight line we join the points 5-9 and points 8-9
with a curve ruler,
forming the back armpit
Cut around and our half back pattern is ready.
VEST.......
Add to the right 6 cm for crossing and 8 cm for facing.
We correct the neckline as the draft,
thus to have a deep neckline in our vest.
We fold the facing inward We round off the waistline.
Cut all around our pattern.
We open the facing,
place the pattern onto our folded fabric and cut.
VEST WITH PEPLUM......
If we want to add a peplum,
we extend our pattern downward.
Do the same on the back
Cut at the waist line and distinguish the peplum.
We clip them from the bottom upwards to 6 -7 points.
We open the cuts and we copy them to a new pattern paper.
Now it's up to you how much you would like to open the cuts.
It depends on how rich you want your peplum to be.
Bye and good luck in whatever you sew.