Tip:
Highlight text to annotate it
X
(Andrew) IT'S ONE OF THE MOST ELEGANT
AND BEAUTIFUL CITIES IN AMERICA.
BUT...
CHARLESTON, SOUTH CAROLINA,
GETS A LOT OF THE FLAVOR IN ITS FOOD
FROM RUGGED PLACES
AND PEOPLE WITH DIRT UNDER THEIR FINGERNAILS...
THEN YOU MEET OUR NEW FRIEND.
(laughing) HOLY...
AND SALT SPRAY IN THEIR FACES.
THIS SOUNDED LIKE A GREAT IDEA
LAST NIGHT WHEN WE CALLED YOU, DIDN'T IT?
THERE'S SOUL FOOD COMING FROM FARM COUNTRY.
YOU KNOW HOW I CAN TELL A GOOD CHICKEN FOOT?
I LIKE A NICE BIG PAD RIGHT THERE.
(laughing)
THERE'S SOME OF AMERICA'S FIRST AND BEST BARBECUE
COMING FROM HARDWOOD SMOKE.
COME ON.
AND I DO MEAN HARD.
THERE YOU GO.
20 MINUTES.
ON THIS TRIP TO CHARLESTON...
I'M BYPASSING MOST OF THE CITY'S ICONIC ELEGANCE
TO EXPLORE THE COASTAL WATERWAYS,
FARMS, AND FORESTS OF THE CAROLINA LOW COUNTRY.
MMM.
THIS IS WHERE A LOT OF THE DISTINCTIVE FLAVORS
OF CHARLESTON COOKING GET THEIR START
AND FIND THEIR WAY BACK
INTO THE CITY'S MOST FAMOUS KITCHENS.
WOW.
(man) THIS THING IS AWESOME, MAN.
I'M ANDREW ZIMMERN,
AND THIS IS "BIZARRE FOODS AMERICA."
♪♪
Closed Captions provided by Scripps Networks, LLC.
Captioned by Closed Captioning Services, Inc.
THE PAST IS ALWAYS PRESENT IN CHARLESTON.
IT'S ONE OF AMERICA'S OLDEST CITIES.
THE FIRST SHOTS OF THE CIVIL WAR
WERE FIRED IN CHARLESTON HARBOR.
AND THE OLD CITY IS HOME TO MANY OF THE SAME FAMILIES
WHO LIVED HERE WHEN IT WAS FIRST BUILT.
BUT HERE'S A SLICE OF LOCAL HISTORY
THAT'S LESS WELL KNOWN.
THIS PART OF THE COUNTRY IS WHERE BARBECUE WAS BORN
FROM A MARRIAGE OF NATIVE AMERICAN SLOW COOKING
AND EUROPEAN LIVESTOCK.
THE ORIGINS OF THE SOUTHERN BARBECUE JOINT
WERE ROADSIDE FIREPITS
WHERE LOCAL FARMERS WOULD KEEP A PIG ROASTING
OVER THE COALS, SELLING MEAT TO HUNGRY TRAVELERS.
AND IF YOU'RE WILLING TO TRAVEL NORTH ABOUT 90 MILES,
DEEP INTO THE RURAL LOW COUNTRY,
YOU CAN GET THE CLOSEST I'VE EVER COME
TO TASTING CAROLINA BARBECUE AT ITS SOURCE.
SCOTT'S BAR-B-QUE IS JUST A ROADSIDE SHACK
IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE, THE KIND A TRAVELER
FROM A FEW HUNDRED YEARS AGO WOULD FIND FAMILIAR--
NO GAS, NO CHARCOAL,
JUST PIGS AND WOOD AND SMOKE.
DO YOU FIND THAT A LOT OF PEOPLE JUST SMILE
THE FIRST TIME THEY COME IN HERE.
YEAH.
YOU'VE GOT A GREAT THING GOING, MY MAN.
RODNEY SCOTT COOKED HIS FIRST HOG
AT THE RIPE OLD AGE OF 11.
HIS PARENTS OPENED THIS PLACE IN 1972
USING THE COOKING METHODS HANDED DOWN
FROM ONE GENERATION TO ANOTHER.
THE PROCESS STARTS EVERY DAY BEFORE DAWN.
WHAT STUPID-*** DUMB WHITE GUY
HAVE YOU ARRANGED TODAY...
(laughing)
TO CHOP THIS WOOD, AND DON'T--
THAT'D BE YOU.
GOD!
(laughing)
OH, I HAD A BAD FEELING ABOUT THAT.
HICKORY, PECAN, AND OAK LOGS
ARE COLLECTED FROM NEIGHBORS' LAND.
RODNEY CLEARS IT FOR FREE.
FOR THE EXTRA-BIG PIECES THERE'S A GAS SPLITTER.
BUT MOST OF THE WOOD THAT COOKS THE PORK AT SCOTT'S
IS CHOPPED WITH ONE OF THESE.
THEN YOU MEET...
(laughs)
OUR NEW FRIEND.
HOLY...
THAT MEANS FULL-CONTACT, ROLL-UP-YOUR-SLEEVES COOKING.
YEAH, THIS LOOKS LIKE SOMETHING
THE VIKINGS WOULD MARAUD AROUND IN.
EXACTLY.
COME ON.
(laughs)
WOW, THERE YOU GO.
I MEAN, IT'S CRACKING. IT'S JUST NOT SPLITTING.
OH, MY GOSH.
WOW.
I THINK IT'S SAFE TO SAY
IF I WERE IN CHARGE OF CHOPPING,
NO ONE AT SCOTT'S WOULD EAT BARBECUE
THE WHOLE OF NEXT YEAR.
THERE YOU GO.
(panting)
20 MINUTES.
20 MINUTES.
UNBELIEVABLE.
WE NEED A WHOLE BUNCH MORE OF THAT.
YEAH.
WELL, YOU GUYS RELAX. HAVE A SWEET TEA.
I'LL GET GOING ON THIS.
JUST THINK, THOUGH, YOU GET TO EAT BEHIND ALL OF THIS.
I FEEL LIKE ROCKY BALBOA.
(laughing)
ONCE THE WOOD IS CHOPPED,
IT GOES INTO SOMETHING THAT LOOKS LIKE A FRANK GEHRY MODEL
FOR SOME NEW OFFICE TOWER.
IT'S PRETTY MUCH AN OLD FUEL DRUM.
YEAH.
AND THERE'S A TRUCK SHOP JUST UP THE STREET.
MM-HMM.
WHEN THE AXLES ARE THROUGH, WE TAKE OLD AXLES
AND RUN 'EM THROUGH IT, SO IT'S KINDA LIKE A RECYCLING PROCESS.
IT'S SUSTAINABLE.
IT'S A GENIUS SYSTEM.
THE TRUCK AXLES SUSPEND THE BURNING WOOD,
ALLOWING ONLY RED-HOT COALS TO FALL TO THE BOTTOM.
THOSE COALS KEEP THE PITS GOING ALL DAY LONG.
EVERY MORNING THE PROCESS IS REPEATED.
SIDE TO SIDE, FRONT TO BACK.
COOKING WITH COALS MEANS CONSTANT SUPERVISION
TO MAKE SURE THE HEAT IS EVENLY DISTRIBUTED.
AND THOSE HOGS HAVE TO BE FLIPPED
AT EXACTLY THE RIGHT TIME.
YOU GOT A GRIP? YOU READY?
YEAH, ONE, TWO.
THAT IS A BEAUTIFUL PIECE OF MEAT.
NOW WE MOP.
ALL RIGHT, NOW WE MOP.
THE MOP IS THE VEHICLE FOR SCOTT'S SECRET SAUCE.
THE SPECIALTY HERE IS A BASTING MIX OF VINEGAR
SPIKED WITH SPICES, LEMONS, AND HOT PEPPERS.
HIS MOP BASTES THE HOG,
SAUCES THE HOG BEFORE PULLING,
AND IS SERVED ON THE SIDE WHEN YOU EAT.
IT'S THAT GOOD.
THAT'S LOVE.
IT IS LOVE.
COOKING THIS WAY, LOW AND SLOW OVER WOOD COALS,
ALLOWS THE JUICES AND SEASONINGS
TO DRIP INTO THE COALS,
CREATING WAVES OF AROMATIZED SMOKE AND STEAM,
BATHING THE HOG IN WAVES OF VINEGAR-PEPPER SEASONING.
AND THE REASON WE DO THIS AGAIN--
WE WANT EVERYTHING TO GO ALL THE WAY THROUGH...
RIGHT.
TO THE SKIN.
AND TO HEAT UP EVENLY.
EXACTLY.
WHOLE-HOG-BARBECUE ARTISTRY
ALSO PLAYS A ROLE
IN THE FINAL PHASE OF THE PROCESS.
THERE YOU GO.
RODNEY'S MOM
SORTS THROUGH MOUNDS OF PERFECTLY SMOKED PIG MEAT,
REMOVING THE BONES AND FAT,
SEPARATING SHOULDER, LOIN, CRISPY SKIN, AND RIB MEAT.
AND I FIND OPPORTUNITIES TO SNACK ALONG THE WAY.
RODNEY'S MOTHER ELLA
HAS BEEN THE PRINCIPAL PORK PULLER IN THIS FAMILY
FOR DECADES.
(Andrew) I MEAN, LOOK AT THIS--
PULLED BY HAND. OOH.
BACON.
(Ella) WANT A PIECE?
OH, DID--WAS THAT THE LOOK THAT I HAD ON MY FACE?
YES, IT DID.
THANK YOU, MY DEAR. THAT'S PERFECT.
YOU WILL NEVER TASTE PORK BELLY AS EXQUISITELY COOKED
AS THE VERSION AT SCOTT'S.
THIS IS ONE OF THE BEST BITES ON THE PIG, I THINK.
THE SORTED PILES ARE MIXED WITH MORE SAUCE
AND SEPARATED INTO 1-POUND PORTIONS
WITH BIG CHUNKS OF CRISPY PIG SKIN MIXED IN
AND SERVED ON THE SIDE--
THE PERFECT LUNCH AFTER A MORNING OF HARD LABOR.
I WOULD LIKE TO TELL YOU THAT MY BACK DOESN'T HURT...
YEAH.
BUT IT DOES.
I KNOW. IT SHOULD.
OH, MAN.
MMM.
YEAH.
THAT'S LOVE.
IT'S UNBELIEVABLE.
AND IT'S SEASONED SO WELL. THAT MOP IS SO PERFECT.
MM-HMM.
YOU'RE NEVER GONNA TELL ME WHAT'S IN THAT, WILL YOU?
LOVE. IT'S ALL ABOUT LOVE.
YOU PUT LOVE IN IT, YOU'LL GET LOVE BACK.
YOU KNOW SOMETHING?
YOU'RE RIGHT.
I HAVE NO RESERVATIONS IN SAYING
THIS IS THE BEST BARBECUE I'VE HAD EVER,
WORTH EVERY OUNCE OF SWEAT THAT GOES INTO MAKING IT.
WELCOME TO THE SOUTH.
THAT IS SO GOOD.
SITTING ON THIS PORCH, WE'RE A LONG WAY FROM CHARLESTON,
BUT SOME OF THE SAME WILD FLAVOR
THAT'S THE ORIGIN OF LOW-COUNTRY BARBECUE
IS FINDING ITS WAY INTO ONE OF CHARLESTON'S BEST KITCHENS...
COME ON.
WITH SNOUT, TROTTERS, AND TAIL
TURNING UP IN A NEW GENERATION OF LOW-COUNTRY COOKING.
YOU CAN SEE HERE ALL THE LITTLE PIECES OF MEAT
AND CONNECTIVE TISSUE AND FAT.
THAT'S NEXT.
AND LATER, OUT ON THE WATER,
THE SAME PIONEER SPIRIT THAT SETTLED THE LOW COUNTRY
IS STILL AT WORK SUPPLYING SOME
OF THE BEST SEAFOOD IN THE SOUTH.
YOU KNOW, I WOULDN'T NECESSARILY CALL MYSELF SOFT.
BUT IF YOU REALLY WANT TO FEEL INADEQUATE AS A GUY,
COME ON OUT HERE
WITH PEOPLE WHO DO A REAL JOB FOR A LIVING.
♪♪
CHARLESTON IS ALL ABOUT THE REFINED ELEGANCE
OF THE OLD SOUTH-- THINK GAS-LIT MANSIONS.
BUT IF YOU'RE LOOKING FOR SOME OF THE BEST FOOD IN TOWN,
COME TO THIS PINK SHACK
NEAR THE RAILROAD TRACKS ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF THE CITY.
THIS IS MARTHA LOU'S.
IT'S A SOUL FOOD RESTAURANT RUN BY MARTHA LOU GADSDEN
AND HER DAUGHTER DEBRA.
THIS PLACE MAY NOT LOOK LIKE A CULINARY TREASURE
ANY MORE THAN THIS GUY LOOKS LIKE HE'D BE
ONE OF AMERICA'S MOST CELEBRATED CHEFS.
THIS IS YOUR FAVORITE PLACE.
WHEN YOU EAT THAT FRIED CHICKEN, YOU'LL SEE WHY.
SEAN BROCK CAN LAY CLAIM
TO BEING AMERICA'S LEADING EXPONENT OF SOUTHERN COOKING.
HE RUNS TWO RESTAURANTS HERE IN CHARLESTON.
HUSK HAS BEEN HAILED
AS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT RESTAURANTS
IN THE HISTORY OF SOUTHERN COOKING.
EVERY MORSEL OF FOOD USED IN THIS KITCHEN
HAS A 100% SOUTHERN PEDIGREE.
THE DAY'S MENU BOARD DOESN'T JUST LIST THE FOOD.
IT TELLS PRECISELY WHICH LOCAL FARM, GROWER,
OR GATHERER SUPPLIED IT,
INCLUDING THE HERITAGE VEGETABLES
SEAN GROWS HIMSELF THAT HAD ALL BUT VANISHED
UNTIL HE BEGAN CULTIVATING THEM.
SEAN'S OTHER PLACE, McCRADY'S,
IS MORE OPEN TO OUTSIDE INFLUENCES,
BUT EQUALLY DEVOTED TO GIVING DINERS
THE FULL EXPERIENCE OF GENUINE SOUTHERN CUISINE.
AND SEAN'S FOOD PHILOSOPHY WAS FINELY HONED
EATING AT MARTHA LOU'S.
THIS IS THE FOOD THAT I'LL ALWAYS BE STRIVING TO REPLICATE.
YOU KNOW, THIS IS A LIFELONG JOURNEY.
MARTHA LOU SERVES UP ENTRéES LIKE FRIED CHICKEN,
COLLARD GREENS, AND CORNBREAD.
THERE'S NOTHING FANCY ABOUT HOW SHE'S COOKING,
JUST A GENERATIONS-OLD KNACK
FOR GETTING THE MOST OUT OF HER INGREDIENTS,
LIKE THE CHITTERLINGS--
PIG INTESTINES STEWED FOR TWO HOURS
WITH ONIONS, SALT, AND PEPPER.
MMM. THOSE CHITTERLINGS ARE EXTRAORDINARY.
THEY'RE MELTING, BUT THEY'RE NOT OVERLY CLEANED,
SO YOU KNOW WHAT PART OF THE ANIMAL YOU'RE EATING.
EVERY PART OF THE BARNYARD THAT I LOVE
IS IN THOSE CHITTERLINGS, AND THEN IT JUST DISAPPEARS.
IT LITERALLY MELTS IN YOUR MOUTH.
WHEN YOU KNOW HOW TO LET SOUTHERN INGREDIENTS
SPEAK FOR THEMSELVES, EVEN A BOWL OF LIMA BEANS
CAN BE A TRANSCENDENT EXPERIENCE.
AND THAT'S THE... (laughs)
I TOLD YOU. IT'S INCREDIBLE.
PEOPLE THINK I'M CRAZY.
THAT--THOSE AREN'T THE BEST BEANS I'VE EVER TASTED.
THAT'S ONE OF THE BEST PIECES OF FOOD I'VE EVER EATEN.
I KNOW, MAN. PEOPLE THINK I'M CRAZY
WHEN I START TALKING ABOUT THIS, LIKE, "IT'S JUST BEANS, MAN."
I'M LIKE, "YOU HAVEN'T EATEN THEM, HAVE YOU?"
OH, NO, NO, NO, NO.
MARTHA LOU'S LIMA BEANS ARE COOKED WITH NECK BONES,
PIG TAILS, ONIONS, AND SUGAR.
IT'S A RECIPE THAT'S BEEN IN HER FAMILY FOR GENERATIONS.
YOU KNOW, THAT'S THE TRUEST INSPIRATION FOR A SOUTHERN CHEF
IS THIS FOOD IN ITS BEAUTY AND HOW DELICIOUS IT IS...
IS THIS--
OUT OF THESE HUMBLE INGREDIENTS.
YEAH.
AND THERE ARE VERY FEW MEALS
THAT MAKE ME THIS HAPPY,
LIKE DEEP-DOWN-INSIDE HAPPY.
YEAH.
THAT'S THE KIND OF EXPERIENCE
SEAN WORKS TO CREATE AT HIS RESTAURANTS.
THIS IS A MAN
WHO LITERALLY WEARS HIS PASSION ON HIS SLEEVE.
SEAN GREW UP ON A FARM IN VIRGINIA,
LEARNED HIS CRAFT IN SOME OF CHARLESTON'S BEST KITCHENS.
TODAY I'M WATCHING HIM AT WORK IN HIS KITCHEN AT McCRADY'S,
INTRODUCING ME TO THE MOST AMAZING PIG
I'VE EVER HAD THE PLEASURE OF MEETING.
WOW.
THIS THING IS AWESOME, MAN.
THE OSSABAW STARTED AS A BREED THAT ARRIVED
WITH THE FIRST SPANISH SETTLERS NEARLY 500 YEARS AGO.
THEY ARE FOUND MOSTLY ON ONE SMALL ISLAND OFF THE COAST.
THERE ARE A FEW PEOPLE RAISING THEM,
BUT IT'S TOUGH TO FIND A 100% OSSABAW.
AND IT'S EVEN HARDER TO FIND ONE THIS SIZE.
AND THERE'S SO MUCH NATURAL FAT ON THIS THING,
FEW CHEFS WILL DARE MESS WITH IT.
BUT WHERE MOST FOLKS SEE ROADBLOCKS,
SEAN SEES AN OPPORTUNITY TO REVIVE A FOOD
ONCE LOST TO AMERICA.
I THINK IT'S THE BEST-- I THINK IT'S THE BEST PIG.
AND SOME OF THE BEST FLAVOR
IS IN THE PARTS MOST NON-SOUTHERN COOKS NEVER USE.
CRISPY OSSABAW PORK TROTTERS
WITH HEIRLOOM BEAN SUCCOTASH,
SLOW-COOKED OSSABAW JOWL
WITH CREAMED COLLARDS AND WOOD-FIRED PARSNIPS,
AND THIS TERRINE,
MADE BY GRINDING UP THE SNOUT, TROTTERS, AND TAILS.
AND SO YOU CAN SEE HERE
ALL THE LITTLE PIECES OF MEAT FROM THERE
AND CONNECTIVE TISSUE AND FAT.
SEAN MADE A MASSIVE CULINARY STATEMENT
WHEN HE FIRST OFFERED HIS FRIED CHICKEN SKINS ON A MENU.
SO IT'S NO SURPRISE HE'S USING THE PIG'S EARS
FOR ANOTHER SIGNATURE DISH.
(oil popping)
TO ME THAT'S A BEAUTIFUL SOUND.
IT MEANS THERE'S A LOT OF GREAT THINGS GOING ON IN THERE.
YEAH.
FRIED PIG'S EARS HAVE BECOME THE MOST POPULAR ITEM AT HUSK.
WE'VE PURCHASED IN ONE YEAR'S TIME
ABOUT 2,600 POUNDS OF PIG EARS,
WHICH IS AWESOME.
BRAISED, FRIED, AND CRISPED,
THE EARS ARE TOSSED IN HOT SAUCE,
GARNISHED WITH PICKLED CAROLINA CABBAGE,
AND WRAPPED IN LETTUCE WITH HOMEGROWN SESAME SEEDS.
AND YOU KNOW THIS-- EATING FOOD WITH YOUR HANDS,
IT'S MY FAVORITE.
MINE, TOO.
OH, MY GOSH.
IT'S LIKE A CRISPY PORK SAUSAGE WITHOUT THE BUN.
OH, MY GOSH. SIMPLE, FOUR, FIVE INGREDIENTS,
TASTE EVERY ONE IN HARMONY-- IT'S GORGEOUS.
THAT'S THE LINK TO THE FOOD AT MARTHA LOU'S--
INIMITABLE LOCAL INGREDIENTS
HANDLED WITH REVERENT RESPECT.
AND SEAN IS CONSTANTLY WORKING TO REDISCOVER TASTES
FROM THE REGION'S PAST. HERE'S A CLASSIC EXAMPLE.
THIS IS CHARLESTON GOLD RICE.
MM-HMM.
CHARLESTON GOLD IS A TRADITIONAL RICE
THAT HAD COMPLETELY DISAPPEARED
UNTIL RESEARCHERS DISCOVERED A FEW SEEDS,
AND PEOPLE LIKE SEAN STARTED GROWING THEM.
SOMETIMES I'LL JUST EAT THIS.
AND WHEN YOU EAT IT, YOU TASTE HISTORY,
AND YOU TASTE THAT ERA,
AND YOU TASTE THE PRESERVATION TECHNIQUES.
THAT IS EXTRAORDINARY.
SO YOU KNOW--
IT'S ALMOST POPCORN-ISH.
IT'S THE PERFECT FOIL
FOR THE SNOUT, TROTTER, AND TAIL TERRINE
WE PREPARED EARLIER.
(laughing) IT'S PRETTY GOOD, MAN.
THIS IS THE-- THE ESSENCE OF PIG.
MMM.
IT IS THE BEST BALANCE OF MEAT AND FAT IN THE ANIMAL,
WHAT YOU'VE CAPTURED THERE.
AND WITH THE RICE, THAT NUTTY QUALITY--
I-I COULD EAT A WHOLE BOWL OF THAT RICE.
YEAH.
YOU KNOW, EVERY TIME I EAT THAT RICE,
A FILM PLAYS IN MY HEAD,
THE HISTORY OF THIS RICE IN CHARLESTON.
AND THAT'S WHAT I WANT TO DO, YOU KNOW?
I WANT TO CREATE THAT FILM FOR PEOPLE,
SO THAT WHEN THEY EAT THIS FOOD, YOU'RE TRANSCENDED
TO THAT TIME PERIOD
WHEN FOOD WAS THE MOST BEAUTIFUL IT'S EVER BEEN IN AMERICA.
THAT'S THE PASSION
THAT'S INSPIRING THE SOUTHERN FOOD RENAISSANCE
BY REINTRODUCING A LOST WORLD OF EATING.
THIS IS MY RELIGION, MAN. (laughs)
BEAUTIFUL THING.
THIS HAS BEEN GREAT SO FAR,
BUT I'M READY TO MOVE FROM THE TURF
TO THE SURF.
VISITORS TAKE IT FOR GRANTED.
CHARLESTON IS A GREAT SEAFOOD TOWN.
BUT I'LL NEVER TAKE FOR GRANTED AGAIN
HOW THAT FOOD GETS FROM THE SEA TO THE KITCHEN
OR HOW IMPORTANT IT IS TO MAKE THE RIGHT CHOICE
ABOUT WHICH CLAMS TO EAT.
THERE'S A WAXY, PUTRID FLAVOR INSIDE OF THERE,
AND, UH, IT TASTES LIKE AN OLD BAND-AID
ALL AT THE SAME TIME.
WELL, YOU GOT A GOOD ONE THEN.
THIS IS A PERFECT DAY FOR CLAMMING.
IT'S A GRAY MONDAY MORNING
HERE ON THE SOUTH CAROLINA COAST.
FANTASTIC.
WHAT MY CREW AND I ARE DOING HERE
LORD ONLY KNOWS.
THIS SOUNDED LIKE A GREAT IDEA LAST NIGHT
WHEN WE CALLED YOU, DIDN'T IT?
(man laughing)
HEY, WE WERE COMING ANYWAY.
JEFF MASSEY AND HIS CREW ARE BAYMEN,
BASED OUT OF McCLELLANVILLE, SOUTH CAROLINA.
IT'S THE LAST SURVIVING FISHING VILLAGE IN THE STATE.
WHILE OTHER COASTAL COMMUNITIES HAVE TRANSITIONED
INTO RESORTS AND CONDOMINIUMS,
RESIDENTS HERE STILL MAKE THEIR LIVING
FROM WHAT THE SEA PROVIDES.
TODAY A SUDDEN ATLANTIC STORM
HAS DOCKED ALL THE BOATS THAT FISH IN THE OPEN SEA.
BUT CLAMMING BOATS DO THEIR WORK CLOSER TO SHORE,
SO JEFF AND HIS CREW ARE ON THE JOB.
WE'VE BEEN FISHING HERE FOR A LONG TIME.
LONG TIME.
AND IT'S NICE TO SEE EVERY SINGLE BOAT
NAMED AFTER A LADY.
IT IS.
IT'S EITHER THEIR KIDS, THEIR WIVES, THEIR MAMAS.
THE McCLELLANVILLE SHIPYARD
IS A LIVING MUSEUM TO A VANISHING WAY OF LIFE
IN THIS PART OF THE WORLD.
EVERY YEAR FEWER AND FEWER SHIPS
PULL OUT OF HERE TO WORK THE WATERS.
IT'S KIND OF THE STORY ON THE COAST FROM FLORIDA
ALL THE WAY UP TO MAINE.
THAT'S IT.
YOU KNOW?
THE LAND'S WORTH MORE THAN THE BOATS ARE,
SO A WHOLE WAY OF LIFE'S GONE.
JEFF'S ACTUALLY A FAMILY FARMER OF SORTS,
WHOSE CROP IS PLANTED AND HARVESTED
ON THE ATLANTIC OCEAN FLOOR.
ONCE WE GET BEYOND
THE SHELTERED INTRACOASTAL WATERWAY,
THINGS START TO GET ROUGH.
35-MILE-AN-HOUR WINDS, DRIVING RAIN,
5-FOOT SWELLS--
FOR A LANDLOCKED TV CREW FROM MINNESOTA,
THIS IS ABOUT AS ROUGH AS IT GETS.
YOU KNOW, I WOULDN'T NECESSARILY CALL MYSELF SOFT,
BUT IF YOU REALLY WANT TO FEEL INADEQUATE AS A GUY,
COME ON OUT HERE WITH PEOPLE WHO DO A REAL JOB FOR A LIVING.
TODAY WE'RE HAULING POTS OF CLAMS.
THAT MEANS HOOKING CLAM NETS SUSPENDED IN THE WATER COLUMN
AND HOISTING THEM ONTO THE DECK.
NOW?
NOW.
THESE CLAMS WERE PLANTED IN THE BAY NEARLY TWO YEARS AGO.
WHEN IT COMES UP AND BURSTS OUT OF THE WATER,
AND WHEN IT'S ALL FULL OF MUD, IT'LL WEIGH ABOUT 500 POUNDS.
500 POUNDS WORTH OF MUD, ALGAE, AND GROWTH
HAVE GOT TO BE PRESSURE-WASHED, LOADED INTO BASKETS
AND WASHED AGAIN.
MUCH BETTER.
MUCH BETTER.
JEFF'S MARRIED INTO A FAMILY THAT OPERATES
THE BIGGEST CLAM FARMING OPERATION IN THE STATE.
THERE ARE ABOUT 300 UNDERWATER ACRES
TO BE TENDED AND HARVESTED.
IT'S A BACKBREAKING PROCESS
THAT CONTINUES FOR HOURS ON END.
2 YEARS, 850 CLAMS.
A LOT OF PEOPLE TELL YOU THEY DON'T LIKE CLAMS,
BUT THEY'VE NEVER HAD FRESH CLAMS.
IF YOU EVER GET 'EM TO EAT FRESH CLAMS, IT'S ON.
THEY'RE DONE, YEAH.
IT'S ON. YEAH, YOU'VE MADE A FAN.
THIS OPERATION SUPPLIES MOST OF THE STATE'S RESTAURANTS,
AS WELL AS CLIENTS AS FAR NORTH AS DELAWARE.
IF YOU ORDER CLAMS IN A SOUTH CAROLINA RESTAURANT,
ODDS ARE THIS IS WHERE THEY CAME FROM.
I HAVE A LOT MORE RESPECT
FOR PEOPLE THAT EARN THEIR LIVING OUT ON THE WATER.
WHAT A BLAST.
ONCE HE'S GOT A NICE HARVEST OF CLAMS,
JEFF BRINGS THEM THE BULLS BAY SEAFOOD DISTRIBUTION PLANT.
IT'S A FAMILY BUSINESS FOUNDED BY JEFF'S IN-LAWS
WHERE HE'S NOW THE OPERATIONS MANAGER.
THIS IS ONE OF ONLY TWO SEAFOOD DISTRIBUTORS
STILL OPERATING IN McCLELLANVILLE.
THERE USED TO BE HUNDREDS.
AND IT'S THE ONLY ONE OUTFITTED FOR CLAMS.
A CUSTOM-BUILT CLAM TUMBLER
REMOVES ANY SHELLS, MUD, OR OTHER STOWAWAYS
THAT MAY HAVE SURVIVED THE POWER WASH ON THE BOAT.
OH!
THERE YOU GO.
SOMETIMES THERE'S AN UNEXPECTED BONUS
IN THE DETRITUS.
THAT'S ALL YOU. (laughs)
YOU'RE NOT GONNA JOIN ME?
NO, I THINK I'LL PASS.
THE BLOOD CLAM IS A ROUGH, HAIRY CLAM
FOUND DEEP IN TIDAL MUD FLATS.
I'VE TRIED THEM ALL OVER SOUTHEAST ASIA,
BUT DIDN'T EVEN KNOW THEY GREW HERE.
NOW AS YOU CAN SEE,
THEY GET THEIR NAME FROM THAT BLOOD THAT'S THERE.
I'VE NEVER ENJOYED THE ASIAN ONES,
BUT THE HOPE IS THE AMERICAN VARIETY
TASTES A LITTLE BETTER.
(laughs)
THEY'RE GRAINY.
FRESH, THEY TASTE SPOILED.
THERE'S A WAXY, PUTRID FLAVOR
INSIDE OF THERE,
AND, UH, IT TASTES LIKE AN OLD BAND-AID
ALL AT THE SAME TIME.
WELL, YOU GOT A GOOD ONE THEN.
ALL RIGHT, CAN WE GO INSIDE AND TRY SOME OF THE GOOD STUFF?
SURE. LET'S GO.
THE FRESHLY TUMBLED CLAMS ARE FED INTO A MACHINE
THAT SEPARATES THEM INTO FOUR DISTINCT SIZES.
IT'S KIND OF LIKE SHELLFISH PLINKO.
DUMP THEM IN AND SEE WHICH CHUTE THEY COME OUT OF.
AND THAT'S A BAG OF CLAMS.
ALL THAT'S LEFT IS TO TAG 'EM AND BAG 'EM.
WE HAVE 200 CLAMS IN EACH BAG.
I WILL POINT OUT
YOUR COMPETITORS ONLY PUT 198 CLAMS IN A BAG,
WHICH I THINK IS (bleep).
THAT'S WHY WE'RE BETTER.
THAT'S EXACTLY RIGHT.
JEFF'S CLAMS END UP
IN CHARLESTON'S FINEST RESTAURANTS,
SERVED RAW ON THE HALF SHELL WITH LEMONS AND COCKTAIL SAUCE.
BUT JEFF'S QUALITY CONTROL PROCESS
DOESN'T ALLOW FOR THE TIME IT TAKES TO SHUCK THEM.
THAT'S TWO, TWO AND A HALF MINUTES
JUST FOR, YOU KNOW, A COUPLE CLAMS.
I'VE EATEN CLAMS ALL OVER THE WORLD,
PREPARED ALL SORTS OF WAYS,
BUT I'VE NEVER TRIED SIMPLY TOSSING THEM
IN THE MICROWAVE UNTIL THEY POP OPEN.
GUESS WHAT? IT WORKS.
WELL, YOU'VE GOT YOUR TIMING DOWN ON THESE THINGS.
LOOK AT THAT. THAT IS JUST HEAVEN.
(slurps) MMM.
THEY'RE WARM, BUT THEY'RE GOOD.
THOSE ARE JUST SWEET AND DELICIOUS. (slurps)
WELL, NOW YOU'RE QUALIFIED
FOR OUR QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENT.
NOW... (laughs)
I'M BETTER AT QUALITY CONTROL
THAN I AM AT HAULING POTS, AREN'T I?
YOU DID PRETTY GOOD TODAY.
NOT BAD.
MY--MY BACK GAVE OUT AFTER ABOUT FIVE.
IT'S THOSE HOURS OF BACKBREAKING WORK
THAT PRODUCE TASTES AND TRADITIONS
THAT DEFINE A REGION AND ITS PEOPLE.
THERE'S A LOT OF PRIDE THAT GOES INTO THESE PRODUCTS.
MMM.
PRIDE IS A KEY INGREDIENT IN A LOT OF THE FOOD
IN THIS PART OF THE COUNTRY, WHETHER IT'S A FAMILY BUSINESS
OR A FAMILY KITCHEN.
THIS IS A HOME WITH DELICIOUS OPPORTUNITIES
FOR LITERALLY PUTTING A FOOT RIGHT IN MY MOUTH.
ARE YOU A PIG FOOT LOVER?
LOVER.
LOVER.
YOU KNOW HOW I CAN TELL A GOOD CHICKEN FOOT?
I LIKE A NICE BIG PAD RIGHT THERE.
I'LL BE WORKING TO EARN A PLACE AT ONE
OF THE MOST DELICIOUS FAMILY TABLES IN THE LOW COUNTRY.
SOUNDS EASY ENOUGH...
ANDREW.
YES.
YOU DIDN'T STIR YOUR POT.
NO ONE SAID STIR.
OR MAYBE NOT.
I'M ON IT.
♪♪
DRIVE JUST A LITTLE WAYS OUT OF CHARLESTON,
AND YOU'LL FIND OPEN COUNTRY, SMALL TOWNS,
SMALL FARMS,
AND ONE OF THE BEST SOUL FOOD CAFéS IN THE LOW COUNTRY.
BUCKSHOT'S IS OWNED AND RUN BY THE GREEN FAMILY.
WHAT COMES OUT OF THEIR RESTAURANT KITCHEN
IS VERY GOOD.
WHAT COMES OUT OF THEIR HOME KITCHEN
IS EVEN BETTER.
IN BOTH THERE'S A DIRECT PERSONAL CONNECTION
TO A LONG FAMILY HISTORY
THAT'S BEEN ROOTED IN THIS LAND
FOR MORE THAN A HUNDRED YEARS.
ARE THESE PICKABLE RIGHT NOW?
YEAH. THEY ARE READY TO GO.
READY TO GO.
MELVIN SIMMONS MARRIED INTO THE GREEN FAMILY DECADES AGO.
AND HIS HOMEGROWN OKRA AND COLLARD GREENS
ARE MAINSTAYS OF ANY FAMILY SPREAD.
THIS IS, UH, ONE OF MY FAVORITE FOODS IN THE WHOLE WORLD.
IS THAT RIGHT?
YOU KNOW, AND HERE'S THE DEAL.
WHERE I COME FROM,
NOBODY KNOWS HOW TO COOK 'EM.
WOW.
I'M BRINGING TODAY'S HARVEST A FEW MINUTES DOWN THE ROAD
TO ROBERT AND MIRIAM GREEN'S HOUSE,
WHERE I'VE WANGLED MYSELF A DINNER INVITATION.
(knocks on door)
FARM STAND DELIVERY.
THERE'S A STRANGE WHITE MAN ON THE PORCH.
(laughing)
THAT JOKE NEVER GETS OLD HERE.
THIS IS MIRIAM GREEN,
MELVIN'S SISTER-IN-LAW.
SHE'S A COOK, MOTHER, AND MATRIARCH
FOR THIS DEVOTED, FOOD-OBSESSED FAMILY.
AND WHO TAUGHT YOU TO COOK?
MY MOM AND GRANDMOTHER.
I LOVE THAT.
THAT'S RIGHT.
MIRIAM AND HER DAUGHTER APRIL, WHO'S A PROFESSIONAL CHEF,
ARE COOKING FOR A FAMILY GATHERING--
BAKED QUAIL SMOTHERED IN OKRA,
FRESH SWEET POTATOES,
BOILED PIG'S FEET.
ARE YOU A PIG FOOT LOVER?
LOVER.
LOVER.
ESPECIALLY WITH GREENS.
THEY TAKE FOOD SERIOUSLY IN THIS KITCHEN.
OH, HO HO HO.
IF YOU OFFER TO HELP OUT, BE PREPARED FOR SCRUTINY.
WHO TAUGHT YOU HOW TO CUT LIKE THAT?
I'M HELPING CHOP VEGETABLES FOR POOR MAN'S STEW--
POTATOES, ONIONS, AND FRESH BELL PEPPER.
THE "POOR MAN" REFERENCE DESCRIBES THE MEAT--
JUST BIG CHUNKS OF PORK SHANKS AND NECK BONES,
CUTS HELD IN LOW ESTEEM FOR GENERATIONS.
THAT'S WHAT YOU USED WAS ANKLES AND NECKS
AND BONES...
THAT'S ALL-- THAT'S ALL WE HAD.
'CAUSE THAT'S ALL ANYBODY HAD, RIGHT?
YEAH.
THE INGREDIENTS FOR THIS STEW WOULD BE THE SAME
IN ANY LOW-COUNTRY KITCHEN.
WHAT'S SPECIAL HERE IS THE CARE THAT GOES INTO IT
AND SOME MYSTERIOUS SEASONINGS
ADDED WHEN I'M NOT LOOKING.
(Andrew) LET ME JUST SAY THAT YOU AND MIRIAM
ARE JUST LIKE EVERY OTHER FAMOUS CHEF
I'VE EVER COOKED WITH.
YOU DON'T QUITE GIVE OUT ALL THE INFORMATION.
NO. YOU DON'T.
THESE RECIPES CAME HANDED DOWN
FROM THE SLAVERY EXPERIENCE OF THE PLANTATION ERA.
HARD TIMES. THE CHALLENGE WAS MAKING DO
WITH BITS AND PIECES THAT MOST PEOPLE THREW AWAY
OR IGNORED, LIKE THESE.
YOU KNOW HOW I CAN TELL A GOOD CHICKEN FOOT?
I LIKE A NICE BIG PAD RIGHT THERE,
BECAUSE THAT'S ALL SKIN AND FAT AND MEAT.
THAT'S IT RIGHT THERE.
THEY LOOK LIKE SMALL, LITTLE BADGER PAWS.
THE CHICKEN FEET ARE CLEANED AND SAUTéED
ALONG WITH FATTY SLICES OF SMOKED PORK JOWL.
YOU CAN SEE HERE
THAT CHICKEN FAT CARAMELIZING
IN THE PORK FAT.
MM-HMM.
WE'RE A LONG WAY FROM THE EAST SIDE OF MANHATTAN,
BUT THERE'S SOMETHING ABOUT THIS KIND OF COOKING
THAT CROSSES ALL KINDS OF BOUNDARIES.
THIS IS WHAT MY GRANDMOTHER'S KITCHEN SMELLED LIKE...
(Miriam) MM-HMM.
THE ONION, THE CELERY, AND THE CHICKEN FEET.
I MEAN, THAT--THAT SMELL REMINDS ME OF GROWING UP.
IT'S MY FAVORITE FOOD SMELL EVER.
AND JUST LIKE MY GRANDMOTHER'S KITCHEN,
WHEN COOKING FOR COMPANY, THERE'S NO TIME LOLLYGAGGING.
ANDREW.
(Andrew) YES.
YOU DIDN'T STIR YOUR POT.
NO ONE SAID STIR.
HERE.
YOU JUST SAID ADD IT.
YOU GOTTA STIR. STIR.
NO PROBLEM. YOU GOT IT. I'M ON IT.
(indistinct conversations)
THE COMPANY STARTS TRICKLING IN.
FOR THE GREENS, A HOUSEFUL OF AUNTS, UNCLES, COUSINS,
AND GRANDPARENTS IS A NEAR-WEEKLY OCCURRENCE.
LOOK AT ALL THE HAPPINESS THAT FOOD BRINGS.
SERIOUSLY.
THIS WAS MEANT TO BE AN OUTDOOR MEAL,
BUT WET WEATHER FORCED A CHANGE OF PLAN TO A LUNCH BUFFET
WITH SEATING SCATTERED THROUGHOUT THE HOUSE.
AFTER GENERATIONS OF HARD WORK,
THIS FAMILY HAS COME A LONG WAY FROM ITS HUMBLE BEGINNINGS.
AND THE DELICIOUS FOOD BORN OF NECESSITY
STAYED WITH THEM-- WELL, MOST OF THEM.
NOT CHICKEN FEET.
(laughter)
WHAT-- NOT CHICKEN FEET?
HMM.
NOT FOR YOU. IT'S NOT YOUR THING.
MNH-MNH.
NO. NO.
MNH-MNH.
YOU DO A GREAT "NO, I DON'T LIKE IT" FACE.
OH, MY GOD, THAT'S ALL WE USED TO EAT.
I DON'T LIKE IT NOW, THOUGH.
WHAT HAPPENED?
ATE TOO MUCH.
WHEN IT'S TIME TO EAT, MIRIAM'S HUSBAND ROBERT
SAYS THE BLESSING.
(Robert) THANK YOU FOR OUR FRIENDS AND OUR FAMILY,
BUT MOST OF ALL, THANK YOU FOR OUR LOVED ONES.
AMEN.
(all) AMEN.
EVEN NOW THAT I'M OUT OF THE KITCHEN,
MIRIAM IS STILL KEEPING A CLOSE EYE ON WHAT I'M DOING.
ALL RIGHT, POTATOES-- BUTTERY, SWEET, AND YUMMY.
I GOTTA TELL YOU SOMETHING, THERE'S NOTHING LIKE A POTATO
THAT COMES FROM THE GROUND TWO MINUTES AWAY.
COME ON. COME ON. BRING IT ON.
(laughter)
YOU WANT ME TO TASTE THE MAC AND CHEESE, DON'T YOU?
BRING IT ON.
THAT'S AS GOOD AS MAC AND CHEESE GETS.
OKAY.
THESE ARE THE CHICKEN FEET,
SEARED IN PIG'S FAT RENDERED FROM THE SMOKED JOWLS.
BRING IT ON, ANDREW.
(Miriam) MMM.
AND THEN YOU KNOW HOW TO EAT IT, TOO.
MM-HMM.
MM-HMM.
I FEEL SORRY FOR PEOPLE
THAT HAVE NEVER HAD A CHICKEN FOOT BEFORE,
BECAUSE IT JUST...
ME, TOO.
THE STICKY, YUMMY SKIN, AND IT TASTES LIKE CHICKEN...
MMM. MM-HMM.
WITH THE VOLUME CRANKED UP.
THAT'S ONE OF THE HALLMARKS
OF GOOD LOW-COUNTRY COOKING--
COAXING AS MUCH FLAVOR AS POSSIBLE
OUT OF SIMPLE, HUMBLE INGREDIENTS.
MMM. WOW.
PIG'S FEET BOILED WITH VEGETABLES,
BARBECUE SAUCE, AND ONE OF THOSE INGREDIENTS
THE COOKS MADE SURE I DIDN'T SEE.
THE SKIN IS JUST MELT-IN-YOUR-MOUTH TENDER,
BUT THE FEET AREN'T FALLING APART, AND I LIKE THAT.
HOW LONG DID YOU COOK THOSE FOR?
AN HOUR AND 30 MINUTES.
BUT YOU HAVE TO HAVE SOMETHING IN IT,
WHICH I'M NOT GONNA SAY, TO BREAK IT DOWN.
(laughter)
THE STORY OF MY WHOLE DAY HERE.
IT'S TERRIBLE. I LOVE YOU GUYS, BUT I HATE YOU.
(laughter)
THE THING IS, EVEN WITH ALL THE TRAINING
AND ALL THE INGREDIENTS,
I STILL COULDN'T COOK IT THE WAY THESE LADIES DO.
THE FOOD HERE REPRESENTS CENTURIES OF TRIAL AND ERROR
LEARNED SIDE BY SIDE WITH THE MOMS AND GRANDMAS
WHO CAME BEFORE.
AND THERE ARE OTHER FOOD TRADITIONS ALIVE AND WELL
OUT IN THE LOW-COUNTRY COUNTRYSIDE.
IT'S A RUGGED, SELF-RELIANT WAY TO PUT FOOD ON THE TABLE.
SO WHAT'S WITH THE GLOVES?
THE THREE OF YOU HAVE A HIGH ENOUGH MACHO FACTOR
WHERE I'LL EXCUSE THE LIGHT PURPLE
BARBIE SURGICAL GLOVES.
THEY WERE FREE.
BUT... (laughs)
SOMEBODY GAVE 'EM TO US
♪♪
SOUTH CAROLINA'S LOW COUNTRY
PROVIDES A LOW-KEY, OLD-WORLD EXISTENCE
TO THOSE WHO LIVE HERE.
IF YOU WANT TO TASTE IT, IT HELPS TO SLOW DOWN,
TURN OFF THE MAIN HIGHWAYS,
AND YOU CAN STEP INTO A UNIQUE WAY OF LIFE.
YOU'VE GOT THE DOUBLE PORCHES. YOU'VE GOT THESE OAKS
WITH ALL THE AIR PLANTS HANGING FROM THEM.
YOU'RE ON THE WATER.
CAN'T GET MUCH BETTER, CAN IT?
NO, NO, NO, NO, IT'S--IT'S FANTASTIC.
THIS IS LARRY McCLELLAN.
HE'S A SHRIMP BOAT CAPTAIN WHO'S A DIRECT DESCENDENT
OF THE MAN WHO FOUNDED THE NEARBY FISHING VILLAGE
OF McCLELLANVILLE.
McCLELLANS HAVE LIVED ON THIS LAND SINCE THE 1700s.
IT'S ONLY AN HOUR AWAY FROM CHARLESTON,
BUT IT MOVES TO THE RHYTHM OF A LONG-LOST CENTURY.
AND SOMEBODY SAYS, "WELL, IT'S NOT THE REAL WORLD."
I HAVE A DIFFERENT VIEW.
YEAH.
THIS IS THE REAL WORLD...
RIGHT.
AND THAT ISN'T.
RIGHT.
LARRY AND HIS SONS MAKE THEIR LIVING ON THE WATER.
WHAT REALLY INTRIGUES ME
IS HOW THEY LIVE OFF THE LAND,
HUNTING AND BUTCHERING ALL THE MEAT
THAT GOES ON THE FAMILY TABLES.
PALMER AND BEN ARE BUTCHERING A DEER
BEN SHOT THREE WEEKS AGO.
THERE'S ALWAYS SOMETHING GOOD
AGING IN THE McCLELLAN FAMILY COOLER,
WHETHER IT'S DEER, GAME BIRDS...
WOW.
OR WILD HOG.
FERAL PIGS CAN CARRY BACTERIA IN THEIR HIDES
THAT ISN'T FOUND IN OTHER ANIMALS,
SO WE'RE TAKING EXTRA PRECAUTIONS.
THE THREE OF YOU HAVE A HIGH ENOUGH MACHO FACTOR
WHERE I'LL EXCUSE THE LIGHT PURPLE
BARBIE SURGICAL GLOVES.
THEY WERE FREE.
BUT... (laughs)
SOMEBODY GAVE 'EM TO US.
THESE GUYS HUNT THEIR OWN PROPERTY,
INCLUDING MARSHLAND THAT USED TO BE RICE PLANTATIONS.
THIS LAND GIVES A UNIQUE FLAVOR TO THE ANIMALS WHO FEED ON IT.
IT IS--IT IS A ROOT IN THAT RICE.
IT'S A REAL LONG, WHITE ROOT...
MM-HMM.
AND THAT'S WHAT THEY EAT.
AND YOU CAN ACTUALLY TASTE IT.
OH, FOR SURE.
IT'S KIND OF A NUTTY FLAVOR.
OH, FOR SURE.
THE BOYS WORK WITH A SKILL THAT'S BEEN HANDED DOWN
THROUGH GENERATIONS.
THAT DIDN'T TAKE TOO LONG.
(Andrew) NO.
IN SHORT ORDER WE'VE GOT HAMS, HOCKS,
SHOULDERS, AND LOINS.
THE DEER LOIN WILL BE DEEP-FRIED,
THE PREFERRED METHOD OF PREPARATION
IN THESE PARTS.
LARRY GIVES THE MEAT JUST A LIGHT DUSTING OF FLOUR
AND A SPRINKLE OF WATER BEFORE GOING INTO THE FRYER.
YOU JUST DON'T GET MANY CHANCES TO EAT VENISON
THAT'S AGED FOR ALMOST A MONTH ON THE HOOF.
THE AGING BREAKS DOWN THE PROTEIN,
ELIMINATING THE BLOODY, FLINTY FLAVOR
THAT COMES WITH FRESH MEAT.
AND THE TEXTURE TURNS MELTINGLY GOOD.
OH, MY GOSH.
THAT IS JUST CLEAN AND GRASSY
AND SWEET.
YES, IT'S VERY, VERY, VERY MILD.
OH.
IT'S A TREAT
TO BE EATING DEEP-FRIED PIECES OF BOAR LOIN
AGED FOR A WEEK AND WITH A NUTTY PORCINE FLAVOR
ABSOLUTELY UNIQUE
TO THIS ONE LITTLE CORNER OF THE WORLD.
MMM. IT'S MILKY. IT'S SWEET.
AND IT'S STRICTLY ORGANIC, WILD IN THE WOODS.
OH, MY...
IF YOU SQUINT, YOU CAN TASTE THE FOREST FLOOR.
IT LOOKS SO ORDINARY,
JUST A GUY COOKING IN HIS KITCHEN...
MMM.
BUT THE FOOD EXPERIENCE
IS ABSOLUTELY UNIQUE.
AND THAT'S WHAT MAKES EXPLORING SOUTH CAROLINA'S LOW COUNTRY
SUCH A TREASURE HUNT.
FARTHER DOWN THE COAST THERE'S MORE HIDDEN GEMS
INSIDE THIS RAMSHACKLE BEACH HOUSE.
THEIR BEING STEAMED UNDERNEATH THIS WET BURLAP SACK--
SOUTH CAROLINA OYSTERS PULLED FRESH FROM THE SEA
A FEW HUNDRED YARDS AWAY.
FOR MORE THAN 60 YEARS, PEOPLE FROM CHARLESTON AND BEYOND
HAVE COME HERE TO BOWENS ISLAND TO ENJOY AN OYSTER ROAST.
UPSTAIRS THERE'S A TRADITIONAL RESTAURANT,
DOWNSTAIRS NOTHING BUT A FEW COMMON TABLES,
CINDER BLOCK WALLS, AND ALL THE OYSTERS YOU CAN SHUCK.
WHAT'S THE DEAL? THEY JUST DUMP THE OYSTERS HERE,
AND YOU GET YOUR OWN LITTLE OYSTER KNIFE?
THAT'S WHAT YOU DO.
DO YOU MIND IF I PULL UP A CHAIR?
HMM!
YOU LOOK LIKE A FRIENDLY BUNCH OF OYSTER EATERS.
(laughter)
FRIENDLY BUT SINGLE-MINDED.
AT BOWENS ISLAND, ANY CONVERSATION IS ACCOMPANIED
BY THE CONSTANT SOUND OF EMPTIED SHELLS
GOING INTO A BOX BENEATH A HOLE
CUT IN THE CENTER OF EACH TABLE.
OH, WOW. THEY REALLY ARE PRETTY DARN GOOD.
AREN'T THEY GOOD?
THEY'RE NICE AND SALTY.
THEY--THEY ARE NICE AND SALTY.
THAT'S--THEY'RE VERY, UH, THEY'RE SHARP SALTY...
MM-HMM. YEAH.
WHICH I REALLY LIKE.
SOUTH CAROLINA OYSTERS ARE TRICKY TO PRY OPEN.
THE GROW IN PROPELLER-SHAPED CLUSTERS
IN HAPHAZARD SHAPES
AND HAVE LONG, SHARP, THIN SHELLS.
IT MAKES THE WHOLE OYSTER-EATING EXPERIENCE
DIFFERENT FROM ANYTHING I'VE FOUND IN NEW ENGLAND
OR THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST.
YOU TAKE YOUR TIME.
IT TAKES TIME, SO THEN YOU CAN TALK, SOCIALIZE.
IT'S VERY GENTEEL.
YES.
AND THEN, OF COURSE, THE MOST FUN...
I COULD JUST DO THAT ALL DAY LONG--OH!
YEAH, YOU CAN DO THAT ALL DAY LONG.
(laughter)
I'M 1-FOR-3.
I'LL STICK TO MY DAY JOB.
(laughing)
PART OF MY DAY JOB IS TRACING FOODS LIKE THIS
TO ITS SOURCE.
NOT TOO HARD, SINCE IT COMES ASHORE
A FEW DOZEN YARDS AWAY.
HOW FAR OUT DID YOU GO FOR THOSE?
PROBABLY ABOUT 300 YARDS
JUST RIGHT AROUND THE CORNER HERE ON 206 WEST.
RIGHT.
JOEL ACKERMAN AND WAYNE PYE FISH FOR OYSTERS
IN THE WATERS OFF BOWENS ISLAND.
THEY'RE AMONG THE LAST REMAINING EXAMPLES
OF WHAT USED TO BE A COMMON WAY TO EARN A LIVING
ALONG THE LOW-COUNTRY COAST.
I MEAN, AT ONE TIME THERE WAS A HUNDRED BOATS IN SHEM CREEK.
YEAH.
THERE'S SEVEN OR EIGHT NOW. THEY'RE GOING AWAY...
YEAH.
AND IT'S BECAUSE WE CAN'T AFFORD TO TAKE CARE OF THE BOATS
AND STUFF LIKE WE USED TO AND STILL MAKE MONEY.
RIGHT.
AND IT'S HARD.
THE COST OF THINGS LIKE FUEL GOES UP.
THE PRICE FOR OYSTERS REMAINS FLAT.
MEN LIKE JOEL HAVE TO HARVEST FIVE TIMES
THE AMOUNT OF OYSTERS THEY USED TO JUST TO GET BY.
JUST A TIP FOR EVERYONE, ALL YOU GOTTA DO
IS COME TO WHERE THE BOAT HITS THE WATER,
AND YOU'RE GONNA FIND REALLY FRIENDLY GUYS
THAT WANT TO SHARE THEIR SEAFOOD WITH YOU. RIGHT? RIGHT?
THAT'S HERE. ENJOY IT.
ENJOYING FOOD CAUGHT FRESH FROM THE SEA
DOESN'T JUST HAPPEN OUT HERE IN THE MARSH COUNTRY.
(man) NOT BAD.
THAT WAS PRETTY-- PRETTY BAD.
FOR A FIRST THROW, THAT--
IN THE STATELY CITY OF CHARLESTON
THERE'S SOME GOOD FISHING HAPPENING
RIGHT OUTSIDE PEOPLE'S BACK DOORS.
VERY NICE.
BON APPé***.
IS IT A KEEPER?
SURE.
RIGHT ON!
EATING CHARLESTON THE WAY THE LOCALS LIKE TO DO IT, NEXT.
♪♪
CHARLESTON IS A CITY OF HIDDEN PATHWAYS AND BACK ALLEYS,
ANCIENT CEMETERIES AND PIRATES' COURTYARDS.
FOR BROTHERS MATT AND TED LEE, THERE COULDN'T HAVE BEEN
A BETTER PLACE IN THE WORLD TO GROW UP.
WE GREW UP SO CLOSE TO FOOD...
RIGHT.
YOU KNOW, OYSTERS ARE IN THE MARSH RIGHT HERE.
RIGHT.
THERE'S SHRIMP WE COULD THROW A CAST NET FOR.
WE CAN GO CRABBING HERE.
MATT AND TED ARE AWARD-WINNING FOOD WRITERS AND ENTREPRENEURS.
THEY'VE WRITTEN BEST-SELLING COOKBOOKS
AND CREATED A MAIL-ORDER BUSINESS
MARKETING SOUTHERN FOOD STAPLES.
THAT'S WHY WE'RE OUT ON THIS PIER
IN THE EARLY MORNING, CAST-NETTING FOR OUR BREAKFAST.
THE NET IS FRINGED WITH WEIGHTS.
SO IF YOU CAN CAST IT RIGHT...
YOU SEE, THAT'S VERY NICE.
THAT'S MORE LIKE IT.
THE NET SPREADS OUT AND SINKS,
TRAPPING WHATEVER'S BENEATH IT.
AND THEN, UH,
THE KEY IS TO REALLY JERK IT IN AT FIRST...
YEAH.
SO THAT WHATEVER YOU TRAPPED UNDER THE NET CAN'T SQUEAK AWAY.
I GOT SOMETHING.
VERY NICE.
BON APPé***.
IS IT A KEEPER?
SURE.
RIGHT ON!
I'VE GOT TO TELL YOU, THAT WAS ACTUALLY VERY DELICIOUS.
TINY, LITTLE FISH WHEN THEY'RE RAW AND WHOLE...
(voices overlapping)
JUST TASTE VERY BRINY AND SWEET.
THE LEES DIVIDE TIME BETWEEN CHARLESTON AND NEW YORK NOW,
BUT THEIR SIGNATURE ACHIEVEMENT WAS TO TURN
THE ORDINARY EVERYDAY FOOD THEY GREW UP WITH
INTO A TRENDY NATIONAL TREASURE,
LIKE SHRIMP AND GRITS FOR BREAKFAST.
OH, MY GOSH, LOOK AT THAT.
I LOVE 'EM. WE CALL 'EM BREAKFAST SHRIMP
WHEN THEY'RE SMALL LIKE THIS...
RIGHT.
LIKE THAT.
'CAUSE YOU CAN ALMOST EAT THE WHOLE SHELL...
RIGHT. RIGHT.
THEY'RE SO TENDER AND FRESH.
FIRST SHRIMP IN THE BUCKET.
WHEN THE BUCKET GETS A LITTLE MORE FULL,
WE TAKE OUR SHRIMP BACK TO THE NEIGHBORHOOD
WHERE THE BROTHERS GREW UP.
FRANKLY, IF WALKING THIS NEIGHBORHOOD
DOESN'T MAKE YOU WANT TO MOVE TO CHARLESTON,
THERE IS SOMETHING DEAD INSIDE YOU.
SO HERE WE ARE IN ONE OF THOSE MAGNIFICENT HOUSES,
COOKING UP ONE OF CHARLESTON'S MOST HUMBLE COMFORT FOODS--
FRESH WILD-CAUGHT SHRIMP,
BIG DOLLOPS OF BUTTERY CORN GRITS,
AND GRAVY MADE FROM PORK NECKS AND SHRIMP HEADS.
OH, MY GOD.
JUST THE LIGHT BRININESS FROM THE SHRIMP,
THAT GORGEOUS, BUTTERY, CRUSTY, MILD, FRESH FLAKINESS.
I-I'LL TELL YA, THE GRITS ARE SUPERB.
CHARLESTON FEATURES SOME OF THE MOST ELEGANT
HIGH-END SOUTHERN DINING IN AMERICA,
SO IT'S A KICK TO ROAM ITS BACK STREETS
WITH MATT AND TED, SAMPLING A DIFFERENT LAYER
OF TRADITIONAL CHARLESTON EATING.
AND THE BROTHERS KNOW WHERE TO FIND
ONE OF THE ONLY RESTAURANTS IN TOWN SERVING THESE.
BOILED PEANUTS.
I'M ALLERGIC. NO, I'M JUST KIDDING.
BOILED GREEN PEANUTS
ARE THE ULTIMATE SOUTHERN COMFORT FOOD.
ROBERT STEHLING'S HOMINY GRILL
MAKES THEM FRESH FROM THE FIELD,
DROWNED IN SALT AND BOILED TO A MUSHY CONSISTENCY.
NO AL DENTE. WE DON'T DO 'EM THAT WAY.
THIS LOOKS LIKE JUST A WET PEANUT,
BUT IT TASTES LIKE A CROSS BETWEEN HAY,
PEANUT BUTTER...
AND THEN THE SMACK OF THE SALT.
MUCH AS THE LOCALS LOVE CONTEMPORARY,
UNPRETENTIOUS JOYS LIKE SNACK FOOD,
THEY CAN'T WALK DOWN A STREET IN THE OLD CITY
WITHOUT FEELING THE WEIGHT OF CHARLESTON'S HISTORY,
A LOAD THEY'VE LEARNED TO CARRY WITH AN EASY GRACE.
MATT AND TED HAVE BROUGHT ME TO CHARLESTON'S FRENCH QUARTER.
THEIR FRIEND JANET HOPKINS
LIVES IN A HOUSE DATING BACK TO THE EARLY 1700s.
I'VE NEVER VISITED A CITY
WHERE SO MANY PEOPLE KNOW SO MUCH ABOUT THE HISTORY
OF EVERY NEIGHBORHOOD, EVERY STREET AND HOUSE.
IT'S BECAUSE EVERYONE STAYS HERE.
(Andrew) RIGHT.
NO ONE LEAVES, SO YOU KNOW, WE'VE ALL BEEN HERE
SINCE THE FIRST BOAT.
RIGHT.
EVEN THE COOKING IS PART OF THE HISTORY.
RIGHT.
JANET IS SERVING US WHAT THEY CALL HERE 3:00 DINNER.
CHICKEN BOG IS A CLASSIC CHARLESTON COMFORT FOOD--
CURRIED CHICKEN AND VEGETABLES SERVED OVER RICE.
CURRY MAY NOT SOUND TYPICALLY SOUTHERN,
BUT IT'S VERY TYPICAL OF CHARLESTON.
IT WAS A REALLY DIVERSE PLACE,
ESPECIALLY IN THE 18th CENTURY,
JUST ALL OF THESE DIFFERENT SHIPS COMING IN
FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD WITH DIFFERENT INGREDIENTS.
THE BOG IS SERVED UP WITH GREEN TOMATO PICKLE,
CHEESE BISCUITS, AND FRESHLY SHELLED BUTTER BEANS.
YOU CAN PUT BUTTER IN THEM, WHICH I DID THIS TIME.
IF YOU DON'T PUT BUTTER IN THEM, THEY STILL DO TASTE
A LITTLE BIT LIKE THEY HAVE BUTTER.
EVERY COOK MAKES THEIR OWN STYLE OF A BOG.
THIS ONE IS CURRIED ELEGANCE IN A BOWL.
MMM.
SWEET AND NUTTY.
I WOULD IMAGINE A COUPLE HUNDRED YEARS AGO,
I MEAN, EVEN A GENERATION OR TWO AGO,
CURRY WAS STILL EXOTIC.
(Matt) OH, YEAH.
YEAH.
YOU KNOW? I MEAN, IT JUST TRANSPORTED YOU
TO A WHOLE OTHER PLACE.
DESSERT IS A HUGUENOT TORTE--
PECANS, APPLES, AND SUGAR
IN A RECIPE BROUGHT HERE BY 17th-CENTURY FRENCH REFUGEES.
THIS IS EXTRAORDINARY.
OH, GOOD.
I MEAN, THE CARAMELLY PECAN-BROWN SUGAR INSANITY.
IN THIS SETTING, THE WHOLE MEAL IS ONE
THAT ANYONE ALIVE 300 YEARS AGO WOULD RECOGNIZE IMMEDIATELY.
PAST AND PRESENT LOSE THEIR BOUNDARIES
AND MERGE INTO ONE TIMELESS MOMENT.
THAT'S WHAT MAKES THE LEE BROTHERS' CHARLESTON
SO ENDLESSLY APPEALING.
IT'S SUCH A THRILL TO BE IN A HOME
THAT HAS SUCH HISTORICAL SIGNIFICANCE,
AND YOU CAN JUST FEEL THE GHOSTS IN THE--
I MEAN, IT JUST FEELS GREAT.
CHARLESTON MAY BE AN AGING ARISTOCRAT OF A CITY
HAUNTED BY GHOSTS,
BUT ITS FOOD HAS THE TANGIBLE FLAVOR
OF LOW-COUNTRY EARTH, WATER, AND FIRE.
IT'S THE TASTE OF THE WOOD SMOKE AT SCOTT'S BAR-B-QUE,
THE CHARLESTON RICE AND OSSABAW PIG
SEAN BROCK LOVES COOKING WITH,
THE VEGETABLES MIRIAM GREEN AND HER FAMILY
TAKE OUT OF THE GROUND JUST OUTSIDE THE KITCHEN DOOR,
AND THE SHELLFISH EATEN WITHIN A FEW YARDS
OF WHERE SOMEONE WORKED HARD TO PULL THEM FROM THE SEA.
SO WHEN YOU VISIT CHARLESTON, REMEMBER...
IF IT LOOKS GOOD, EAT IT.
♪♪