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Hello, i would like to welcome everybody my name is Anna Pawlovska and i will do presentation for you today with very interesting theme
theme about colors in permanent make up is very difficult
its about color oxidation, basic colors atc...
i would like to explain you today in the easiest way so you could understand
how not to do basic misstakes in permanent(semipermanent) make up
very often we can see problems as eyebrows come out in color orange, losos( salmon), pinkish
or lips are bruised and we dont know what to do about it
same as work with needle need to be right depth
i have heared no long ago there is no difference between permanent make up and tattoo
i have done course for tattoo just for interest and think
there is very big difference like (device, depth of needle)
for example ladies writing on internet forum there is no possibility that make up will not stay in skin
if it did not stay its crap linergist..its all about how deep she injecting needle with pigment and she has to do it very deep for pigment to stay!
"its totally not true" for person with no knowladge( depth) mean to push needle very hard and deep
but for technician...we all know we can not pigment in dermis skin
due to all this there are coming themes like bruised lips,
spider veins, pigment migration on eye
or uneven eyeliners that been done with needle to deep and scratched (broke) epidermis so badly that is becoming problem
there is minimum of complications if natural lip color is light
if we gonna speak about vesage now for second
who has done visage course learned
that cool color of lipstick gonna be the best for person with cool skin tone
lipstick does not effect anything because we putting it on our lips but
but in pmu we work with needle and pigmenting in epidermis
where pigment is oxidizing
there starting a problem in pmu if we put cool color on cool lips
there are some tricks?rules i want to tell you
first we have to put right corector on lips if we want to use cool pigment on cool lips( because thats what we think gonna be the best by visage)
every company has such corectors but it also depends on witch brand you work with
the most dangerous pigment by me is fuchsia and burgbundy
every pigment witch having purple particles in can cause bruising effect ( look)
same effect you will get with worm color if you use pink or red on cool lips
and pigment been implanted too deeply, it will couse bruises too
for this reason,depth of pigmentation is very important
we can not push on needle too hard to have bleeding thats mean deep pigmentation , no long ago i had case:ladie came to me
with black looking lips
on picture the lips looked color fuchsia but without flash they been black!
client went for this treatment over 4 times again and again linergist used same pigment each time
of course she could not help this lady because over 4 times
used same color for each time probably fuchsia mixed with burgbundy
on totaly cool lips she used cool colors, plus color implanted too deeply migrated on her lips
there was no chance to help this client in any way
and there was just one prion LASER
if we dont pigment to deeply we are able to save situation with corectors
but if we needling too deep like tatto just laser is option for such person
we can work with laser on lips, eyebrows but with eyes laser isnt able to help
like color migrated in capillaries, there is no such option as laser
nobody will take such responsibility and work with laser by eye
still about lips
we can use orange corector on bruised lips
or there are corectors...i can not really say names and brands in here
but there are some corectors we can use on bruised lips to reduce bruised color
after we can put right pigment on
but it can not be fuchsia or burgbundy again
we can mix a bit
in such pigments we can put drop of camuflage ( skin color)
but never to mix with white pigment, because white by its structure never going to fade our of skin
it comes from chemystryknowledge atc...
if we still going to speak about lips very inportant is ***(cold sore)
here you know by your experience people whos having it very often missing their lip color
there is difference between pigmenting lips on mucous membrane and pigmentation over natural lip line on epidermis
people that want to enlarge lips or of course so much lip red color disasapeared due to ***
we have to advice such person esthetic surgery to enlarge them,because we can enlarge by pigmentation but not by injecting filler and do them fuller or plumped
ladies coming very often with such problem, they want lips fuller or plumped by PMU
and very often they want to enlarge about 3 mm
i could see many results when there is different color on epidermis over natural lip line and different color inside of lips lighter
pigment on lips(mucous membrane) always going to setle different than pigment we needled on epidermis above lips
its for sure
if we gonna speak about eyebrows now
very often you see such clients who want to have black eyebrows
they coming to salong and want them absolutely black or as much dark its possible
some technicians using black for this procedures, that should by used only for eyeliners
if we use such pigment on eyebrows
ending effect going to be purple or blue
if you want to save such client and she did not have done first procedure by you
we can fix such eyebrows by using ..(on shape even not symetrical)
but at the moment we are not interesting in shape or symetry but problem is color example blue
we have to use totaly orange pigment...there are orange pligments but also corectors
so you putting such orange corector on black eyebrows that turned blue
you pigmentting well to cover shape only
when you gonna use this corector you will see
how color is changing because of the oxidacion
or you gonna have client with brows of color losos, orange, pink atc...you always using olive corector on
to warm color example with all brownish pigments not to turn them redish, pink, orange, losos
we have to put one drop of olive pigment "its corector"
olive having effect to cool color down
opossite to get warm tone of pigment corectors are always yelow
one drop of yelow will make sure pigment tome will stay warm
with yelow we getting rid off fading in color redish ,pink, losos in year time or longer
because every pigment is make from some base
black is on base blue
in time pigment going to fade in natural way and losing some pigment particles...black is gonna fade to bluish
brown is on bases of red...
after when fades goes orange, redish, and pinkish losos
so we have to know
it doesnt matter which brown if hazelnut or darkest brown
always gonna have red in it
for this reasons
we need to put drop of olive pigment or yelow in its principle
many technicians always asking what they doing wrong because their brows coming out losos or pinkish
they dont do anything wrong just dont use and put right corector in pigments
i dont know any pigments that are secured( save) in such way
maybe they start to produce such pigments because i have heared there is few producers who starting to put corectors in their pigments
but just few its rare
personaly when i have learned PMU i done brows for my mum, typical light blond and i would never thought its going to fade to losos color
so really every time, its like rule i can not even emagine
not to put drop of olive or yelow in pigment for eyebrows
corector is our safety
of course there always going to be ladies with losos eyebrows, because we cant measure and we plut not enough corector in
but usualy it is for 2-3 drops of eyebrow pigment
we have to put one big drop of olive or yelow that will make sure we stay in warm tone, when wanted example redish
there are clients who want chocolate eyerows, are ginger redish with worm skin tone and
for them yelow absolutely needed
our skin is like filter for this reason when we see pigment its never gonna look the same in the skin
pigment gonna oxidize in skin and the best time to see true color how its gonna look like is 4th week
first week epidermis exfoliate
2nd week epidermis is healing
3rd week its week when color gonna dissapear in some places and come out again
and 4th week is stabilisation, pigment settled down and the way we see it its the way its gonna look like
thats why we cant retouch earlier than in 4 weeks time specialy with lips and brows
epidermis is able to regenerate by itself in two weeks time naturaly
if ladie come back in two weeks time and we will work on such soft new skin again (lips)
when we start to needle area again it will take the first pigment out of the skin because pigment has not stabilisated yet
thats why its very important that epidermis going to heal first so we work on save skin
same with eyebrows
with eyes we can do retouch in two weeks
but lips, eyebrows minimum 4 weeks no earlier
there are pigments that are very strong+bright and some clients crying its too intensive
but after exfoliation possibility is there is none left or is very delicate
if there is none left and pigment was originaly very dark
we should think about that we didnt pigmented deep enough
in general needle should be out about 2 mm, no more than that
and we work very slowly
i always say on every training we should work slow if you gonna work to quickly we can see this type of work on film very often
but its just film,..and in reality effect gonna look totaly different
with quick work needle just gonna bounce on the skin with pigment and pigment will not be inplanted
absolutely inverted effect
so work and needle speed is also very inportant
another theme about eyebrows is skin corector
can be used when we messed up but i dont talk here about cm but just mm
like a bit longer brow or thicker, we can always use skin corector in such cases
numbers of pigment depends on skin type
and you start to work on area which you want to neutralise in mm VERY SOFTLY9GENTLY)
with zig zag technique
you do not pigment in straight line but zig zag
example
we got eyes
and i am talking about most symetrical eyes now, everything is right and we want to
draw just symetrical eyebrow above them
with eyes placed too close together we will have to draw brows more to the sides of course
but if everything is ok our rule of visage is
to mark starting points in inner corner of the eyes
so eyebrow shuld start above inner corner of eye
or we can move them a bit in to make them look opticaly nicer
than we can start to think about our brow shape
to make it easier its the best to draw sketch on client
no permanent just sketch with pencil
when you look at this lines we will put pencil straight right up and mark the beginings of our brows
after we have to think about thicknes
some clients like thin some of them thick
so if we do natural hair grow of our client one is higher
one is slightly lower
we just going to choose which one we like more and fit the other to it
we can say its here, so i draw line here...
and here because i want beginings and thicknes to be identical
and got first squares where i can start my brows
now just we have to think if our client want beginings of brow to look like
...she want straight, there are some who want it
ladies who want them slantwise(sideling)
or round
or the most natural shape
but less i know where to start already
if i start like this or like that
or like this
the most important and hardest is to draw shape but its just practice practice
big misstake is to do contour of eyebrows and after filling(shading)
because by my experience ladies always coming with conture on their forhead and just slightly visible fills or there is no color inside at all in few mths time
so what we going to do is very quick shadow, no ideal lines but taking pencil and working like this
hmm maybe i draw it here so you could see it better
i am able to see shape and can refine later
its not hairstroke technique but for blocked brows it works well
after i just start with needle and the way i want but on good sketvh and no on something like this
if we got client who want sharp edge we can jusr refine later
in here...i know i have to do this
but i got very easy and quick way to work now
i can work in circles to have brow shaded or to pigment idealy hairstrokes one long one shorter
sketch is enough i dont have to draw over one hr
than i can easily start to sketch other and make them symetricaly same
just have to look if i got highest points in same level
than we can start work quickly because our numbing of course
instead to draw conture.. start to pigment it than shade and fill
maybe there are technicians who prefere to work other way
i dont want to change your system but think its much easier
colors for brows we got gray to brown to darkest pigments witch are not saved
and as i said in every color we have to add right corector
every color black is on base blue so with fading we go to blue and grey sometimes
these are save pigments that fading this way
of course we can see black eyeliner that stay on for few years
but we can not say its behaving of save pigments
organic colors & nonorganic
i am sure you know about it or read already
save pigments alwaysgoing to fade over base colors
so something for something
generaly if we done such mistake or somebody coming to us with such think
i always saying to my clients you never gonna have same effect as we would do it for first time
make up we fixing after somebody or our foult its not same as start with clear page
its page tat is done already and drawed
but effect not gonna be ideal as treatment we doing for first time
if you gonna have client with purple lips
and somebody pigmented too deep you can fix the problem
but just for year or year and half
something that been pigmented before always gonna come out
we can reduce or fix it just for short period of time
but never perfectly
if there is person who have natural lip color brownish red
we have to use corector first to create basis so we could put pigment on
because all natural lip red color reacting different with pigment
we have to imagine for ourselfs what results we want to create(get) two friends coming to salon and want same lip pigment
we never get same color effect in the end for both clients, each ladie gonna have different ending color
now you got client with one brow here , other here...there is not symetry
i met few like that you could draw other brow under, how unsymetrical they were and she could not see it
we can not neutralize all brows with skin corector but
we can take a bit of this part down here
but we talking about mm just a bit
this one camuflage from top
and make it lower
again, they never going to be ideal but we can do our best to help
we will not work with camuflage just on the part where brow is
but we with circules we cover area and after using zig zag to go over a bit (around)
we will create for like...mouse
this technique not going to cover just efected area
but also around..
you working to create this type of fog, (shading)
in begining its going to be color pinkish white
you have to wait for it to efoliate than do it again
how many times you reapeating procedure depends on how deep color was pigmented earlier
if too deep there must be few visits and treatments
in camuflage we can retouch in 3 weeks time
but just with camuflage no with normal pigment
this part you doing in same way...corector in circles and zig zag endingss tocover more than just effected area
waiting 3 weeks than we can meet again to use color pigment on brows
can be sytuation our old make up is still visible so we have to redo it with camo again
other example: if you want to lift tail of eyebrows because had been done too low you will work in similar way
you starting zig zag movements going 0,5mm over area
after it exfoliate its not gonna be line
but it will exfoliate to smooth plastic look
its very important
lips
i met few clients that wanted enlarge opticly
plus make this area more straight
maybe you met such people too, they think they going to have opticaly nice enlarge lips
we working just in mm to make lips symetrical
but we never pigment above the lip nearly half of cm
color never gonna have same shade on eidermis as on lips
there going to be two colors we can have lighter lips and darker above them
or color does not connect with lip line
so we going to have lips different color than second conture
like fuzzy(blotchy) lipstick
so if you got such problem and ladie want to fix her faded lips with second line
just if pigment was not injected too deep we can fix it
by camuflage
corector in skin color and
we start to work on conture by zig zag but need to go over the line about 1mm
we waiting for it to neutralize
thank we can use color pigment of course in right place now
we will not do same misstake twice
sorry
when we taning sadly corectors are visible...this misstakes are so important that we cant do them
camo doesnt tan is always visible on skin, same as with eye,
some clients has thick eyeliner
two long or both unsymetrical ones and we want to treat it
corector always going to be more visible when we tan
when pigment migrated in eye area girls are asking if they can use corector
you can just few mm but you can not work on big areas
because our corector going to fade in time but migrated pigment will stay in our organism
so all proces will come back after 1 year time and needs to be repeated
we have to inform such client that something that been done already in past we can fix ust for short period of time
just minimum of pigment will fade its like tattoo it will get lighter in time but will stay forever
ladies are describing it like having bruise
after two weeks time every pigment should be fine but having shadow like over it
thats the pigment that been implanted too deeply
or eyeliner been done too agresively
sometimes technicians work on twitch technique ( using all arm)i recomend 1.pigmentation has be done in line
you have to rest your arm and work just with your wrist
no like this in the air, one second we have needle in skin other in the air and pigment with needle bounce back
specialy on the lips because its mucosa, because our effect going to be STITCHES LOOK
we can see this type of work very often
conture is missing pigment like this
its bad technique, instead to work properly
and slow ...we going back and forwoard instead some work is like this, Quick work
quick work will have bounce effect on skin when we working with needle
its same with eye
next you have client that want decorative eyeliner
there are some
we can not satisfied our client every time
very important are mimic wrinkles
younger got them less than older right?!
when she smile atc... or the skin over her eye is loose sometimes in many ways
with few people beginings are nice and after we got something like this
its getting looser( hanging) and client want decorative ectreme eyeliner and best always intensive
permanent make up doesnt replace night make up
some ladies keep saying they can not see the eyeliner and i look of course its there
but if she put powder over it + eyeshadow
we wont be able to see it
we have PMU because we dont want to put make up on every morning, we want look nice on beach in swiming pool
we will not see lips eather if we put powder or foundation over them
back to eye if client got problem with loose skin we can do lash enhancement
its for eyes to be brighter
but we cant do decorative eyeliner , we cant just lift loose skin and pigment there ... we work on epidermis but no on skin
or every wrinkle going to take pigment with it as they getting older and deeper
its like material isnt it?!
iif we do it in lashes eye going to be very nice but if we
want to work here???? we basicly cant lift it and do eyeliner
we are not able to
but with everyday make up she is able to draw this type of line because its on the skin but with liner we have to work in every crease (FOLD)
so if client got any type of wrinkles in this area
we work only to the first wrinkle
when we can not do decorative eyeliner we can offer just minimum extend lift
but in mm neverdo this type of eyes with liner down because clients eyes gonna look very sad
best look is
to the last eyelash but never extend the way down
same with lower eyeliner
its best to end eyeliner earlier and not to connect them and do close eye look
we dont connect eyeliners ( just in special circumstances)
i saw such eyeliner that was connected
after year client decided she doesnt look good any more ...you can fix it with white pigment
no skin corector just white pigment
best with single needle
you will seperate the eyeliner gently
to open it
this effect going to be for very long period of time
because of chemical ingredience of white
its going to fade for very long time in some cases never
when we going to work on this area we have to work very gently, lightly ..white is hardly visible and best time we will be able to see it is in 2 weeks time
its same with tattoo, white is hardly visible in begining
just visible after 2 weeks when exfoliates
you work so many treatments to be able to see it by the eye its going to ve more plinkish thank white anyway
dont be worried its totaly normal and natural
sometimes client coming earlier and start to panic.but we realy going to be able to see it in min. 2 weeks time
we can not retouch earlien than 2 weeks time
sometimes we using white under eyebrows to highlith the area
its same you do not work in line but shadow
with zig zag
lips same we can hight light them but it will not be so much visible in begining so dont over do it
dont work too deep 2mm is max.
and again we dont do perfect line as we need to do on lip liner but we doing shadow with zig zag
shadow or fog like you want to hogh light with powder
we cant get rid off wrincles so here become problem
if client got smoker wrinkles
we trying as less is possible to go over natural red lip
our client want to enlarge lips
but we cant cut off those wrinkles so when we working lips are getting bigger because its swolen and wrincles smoothing
at this point pigment going to be brighter stronger in weincle area
when we fold something color opticaly cumulate
cumulate in wrincle so look like darker stain
thats why we dont do such think and dont enlarge lips that are wrinkled
we dont go in wrincles or foldings, bendings with liner
some people are more sensitive than others and we can see a bit of bleeding
but if bleeding is intensive its mean something is not right
we using anesthetics to shrink capillaries but sometimes when it bleeds it doesnt always mean anestheric doesnt work but we needling to deep and agresivly
at this point we got problem
client sometimes doesnt tell us she using medicine and blood is thiner
its very important too
or herbs having same reaction to blood sometimes we just touch the skin and can see red dot straight away
i had such client who knew she had thin blood she went to doctor and been given perscription to have procedure done safely
tail of brow will always stay darker or we dont have beginings at all and tail a bit
and effect never going to be good beginings going to exfoliate everytime
and tail will stay specialy with older person because epidermis on older skin
will absorbe pigment quicker
some ladies doesnt want even corection because when we take lightest pigment it can oxidize very soon
lips are the same
ecery color will be more intensive than on young person
we can do lipliner and shading in one procedure when we want to make color lighter on lips
but if we want to camuflage lip that been enrarged
and we have wobly pigmentation on lips too
we will have to split treatments to few
sometimes client got natural lip conture after pigment and other color
thats the biggest issue in PMU
we never know how deep was first pigmentation by other technician so any color that been pigmented before and we fic it
it will come out in period of time and be visible anyway
there are pigments that are specialy for work to make lip pigment lighter after treatment
for example you will do very intensive color on lips
you dont have experience and this can happend right?!
with next visit you can fix it with no other pigment but corector
in skin color you using skin color on whole lips
instead of other color..you dont mic skin with color together in pot
but just with skin corector you working on lips to create base
after that you can use lighter pigment over it
this will couse powdered effect on lips with new color
sometimes client want to have powdered pink effect on lips but i have never saw such pigment yet
but just heared there is pigment already that after treatment making lips lighter with no need of skin color
but i just heared never seen and we can fix dark lips just with corector
to create fog just with gentle work
we using lightest skin color to make lips lighter after example 5 overgoings we can go to lighter pigment
but again as i said earlier we can not put cool color on cool lips
here is the no.1 rule
cool lips - warm pigment
same with brows lady that comes with blond hair
with capillaries on her fase
skin texture is pink
you never going to choose typical brown warm pigment
we will always go to cooler site
its oposite of visage
in visage you learning warm skin is for warm colors
for cool are cool colors
but here with PMu its different we use warm to cool skin because pigment oxidize in organism
cool lips warm color (pigment)
even when we used corector before on lips to overcome bruise effect we always trying to choose warmer pigments
its important...dont put on cool lips pure brown pigment..
because brown color on cool lips going to look very sad
option for this is to put drop of red or pink in pigment
if client reall want brown color we using less of pink/red to mic
the brown will stay brown but going to have fresher look
browns colors always look sad on lips...:-(
but everybody works on different pigments so you have to choose from your color chart
and producer...we also working on different machines
so some of us has to regulate needle by ourselfs...its always 2mm max.
end in the end of our work even minimum of needle specialy on lips
you have to pigment very softly to create fog or mouse effect on lips
lips can not be bleeding also dont wipe pigment of lip but more pushing color in with cotton pad
we cant wipe pigment off every time but delicately tap pigment in
there going to be better resolts! from start you working deeper and quicker but in the end just slow and gently
you will get better effect for sure
epidermis going to be less irritatied too
also we can not use brow brown for lilps, colors for lips are for lips only
and pligment for brows only for brows
i know few cases when ladie mixed pigments..every pigment is there for different purpose
example base of pigment, every pigment got different condistency
and brow pigment is got base red with orange
but lip pigment is behaving and fading totaly different
some client want, i met lady that wanted grey lip conture
or blue lips
she saw it somewhere abroad and of course it was wrong PMU
but she liked it
there is no pigment producer anuwhere with blue or grey lip pigment!
just because client want strange color on lips we cant use pigments that are for eyes or lips..we never know how pigment going to ocidize in lips
it can oxisize green purple or blue
so in the end she could have green conture
example pigment for brows you used on lips had base olice!!!
effect going to be colorfull lips
hylauronic acid and other fillers absorbing water, pigments are fluent
we never get ideal effect with lips when filler is in , client will not be 100$ pleased
we can have situation that blemish (stain) will appear
in mu consultation form i have queation about filler, client has to know we not sure what wnding result going to be like
its going to be hard to pigment, can have stains, misscoloration
its like spange
you got smaller holes and bigger holes in lips there are also capillaries...its mucous membrane
its not same to work lips and brows
it is important to ask your client if they had lipfiller
we never know wnding effect
its like our organism it can accept something or not
pigment dont need to be accepted by organism... there is not person that doing just 100% right in PMU and we can not pigment lips 6x times because we can hurt someone!!!