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♪
>> WHO ARE THOSE UGLY WHITE MEN?
THEY DON'T LIKE FRIENDLY.
WHO ARE THOSE -- ANYWAY.
SOME UGLY DUTCH GUYS IT LOOKS
LIKE WITH GUNS.
I'M GUESSING PARTICULARLY
FRIENDLY TO THE CURRENT POWER.
THEY LOOK LIKE THEY'RE GOING TO
OR COMING FROM OPPRESSING A
BLACK MAN.
FIRST ORDER OF BUSINESS, MAN.
WHEN I TAKE MY COUNTRY BACK,
FIRST ORDER OF BUSINESS IS TO
TAKE THAT -- DOWN.
AM I RIGHT OR WHAT?
I'M KIND OF AMAZED.
TEAR THAT [ MUTED ] DOWN.
-- Captions by VITAC -- www.vitac.com
♪ I TOOK A WALK THROUGH THIS
BEAUTIFUL WORLD ♪
♪ FELT THE COOL RAIN ON MY
SHOULDER ♪
♪ FOUND SOMETHING GOOD IN THIS
BEAUTIFUL WORLD ♪
♪ I FELT THE RAIN GETTING
COLDER ♪
♪ SHA LA LA LA LA ♪
♪ SHA LA LA LA LA LA LA ♪
♪ SHA LA LA LA LA ♪
♪ SHA LA LA LA LA LA LA ♪
♪
>>> IN JULY 2013, WHEN I WENT TO
SOUTH AFRICA, 95-YEAR-OLD NELSON
MANDELA WAS CRITICALLY ILL.
IN THE COUNTRY HE FREED FROM
WHITE MINORITY RULE WAS ALREADY
IN MOURNING.
AND ALREADY FEARFUL OF WHAT THE
FUTURE MIGHT BE WITHOUT HIM.
>> I PRAY THAT HE -- SOMEBODY
TAKES BATON FROM HIM.
>> I WISH HIM A SPEEDY RECOVERY.
AND COME BACK TO HIS PEOPLE.
♪
>> SO A GOOD FRIEND OF MINE, A
REALLY GREAT TRAVEL WRITER, SAID
SOMETHING.
THE MORE I TRAVEL THE LESS I
KNOW.
I FEEL THAT PARTICULARLY
STRONGLY IN SOUTH AFRICA, A
PLACE I CAME IN A STATE OF NEAR
TOTAL IGNORANCE.
LOADED WITH PRECONCEPTIONS.
FOR THE FIRST PART OF MY LIFE,
THE SOUTH AFRICA I KNEW WAS NOT
A HAPPY PLACE OR A GOOD PLACE.
IT WAS A PARIAH STATE.
OUTRAGEOUSLY DIVIDED INTO BLACK
AND WHITE.
A THROWBACK TO ATTITUDES WE
THOUGHT WE'D LONG LEARNED TO
REJECT.
♪
>> THE NATIONALIST GOVERNMENT IN
SOUTH AFRICA ENACTED APARTHEID
LAWS IN 1938.
WHO YOU COULD MARRY.
WHERE YOU LIVED.
WHERE YOU COULD WALK, BE
EDUCATED, EVERYTHING DECIDED BY
RACIST LAWS BACKED BY POLICE,
ARMY AND SECRET SERVICES.
THE INSTITUTIONALIZED RACIAL
DISCRIMINATION WAS DESIGNED TO
MAINTAIN WHITE MINORITY POWER
AND ECONOMICALLY SUPPRESS THE
BLACK AND MIXED RACE SOUTH
AFRICANS WHO LIVED IN TOWNSHIPS,
MOSTLY IN POVERTY.
IN 1923, THE AFRICAN NATIONAL
CONGRESS WAS FORMED.
BY 1961, IT HAD BEEN RADICALIZED
BY THE INFLUENCE OF A YOUNG
NELSON MANDELA, AMONG OTHERS,
AND FORMED AN ARMED WING CALLED
THE SPEAR OF THE NATION.
>> DO YOU SEE AFRICANS BEING
ABLE TO DEVELOP IN THE COUNTRY
WITHOUT BEING PUSHED OUT?
>> WE HAVE MADE IT VERY CLEAR IN
OUR POLICY THAT SOUTH AFRICA IS
A COUNTRY OF MANY RACES.
THERE IS ROOM FOR ALL THE
VARIOUS RACES.
>> IN 1963, MANDELA WAS CHARGED
WITH SABOTAGE AND CONSPIRACY AND
SENTENCED TO LIFE IMPRISONMENT
ON ROBIN ISLAND.
IT WOULD TAKE ANOTHER 27 YEARS
OF SILENCE AND INJUSTICE BEFORE
THE INEVITABLE WOULD HAPPEN.
>> DO YOU BELIEVE IN APARTHEID?
>> I BELIEVE ACCORDING TO GOD'S
WILL THAT THE WHITE RACE SHOULD
BE PRESERVED.
>> SOUTH AFRICA'S WHITE MINORITY
UNDER INTERNATIONAL SANCTIONS,
INTERNAL POLITICAL PRESSURE AND
THE DECLINE OF THE COMMUNIST
THREAT, MANDELA WAS WE LEASED
FROM PRISON IN 1990.
IN '94, HE WAS ELECTED PRESIDENT
OF THE NEW, FREE SOUTH AFRICA.
♪
THERE HAVE BEEN VERY FEW FIGURES
IN THE ENTIRE HISTORY OF THE
WORLD AS REVERED OR AS IMPORTANT
AS NELSON MANDELA.
BUT THE QUESTION IS, WHAT
HAPPENS NEXT?
♪
>> JOHANNESBURG OR JOE BURG OR
JOSIE.
THE LARGEST CITY OF POPULATION
IN SOUTH AFRICA.
AND THE ECONOMIC POWERHOUSE OF
THE COUNTRY.
SOUTHWEST OF JOHANNESBURG,
SOWETO.
ORIGINALLY AN ACRONYM FOR
SOUTHWESTERN TOWNSHIPS.
NOW THE AREA IS CONSIDERED A
SUBURB.
[ SPEAKING IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE ]
>> IN 2010, SOUTH AFRICA PLAYED
HOST TO THE WORLD CUP.
THE BLACKJACKS WHO PLAYED FOR
THE OPENING CELEBRATION ARE A
SOWETO BASED BAND.
THEY ARE ALSO, NOT SURPRISINGLY,
SOCCER FANS.
♪
>> WE'RE HERE ON GAME DAY.
A GRUDGE MATCH IN A COUNTRY
WHERE SOCCER APPROACHES RELIGI
RELIGION.
YOU CAN FEEL IT IN SOWETO OR
RATHER YOU CAN SEE IT AS
EVERYWHERE YOU LOOK PEOPLE SHOW
THEIR LOVE FOR THE LOCAL ORLANDO
PIRATES OR JOHANNESBURG KAISER
CHIEFS.
MAWILIES INN.
THE PERFECT PLACE TO TALK ABOUT
A GAME, DRINK YOURSELF SILLY
OVER THE RESULTS OF A GAME, OR
JUST HAVE A VERY FINE LOCAL
STYLE MEAL.
IT IS, HOWEVER, A LITTLE HARD TO
FIND.
THERE ARE A LOT OF PLACES LIKE
THIS?
THIS USED TO BE THE GARAGE OR
THE CARPORT, RIGHT?
>> YEAH.
DEFINITELY.
>> IN WHAT WAS ONCE A GARAGE ARE
NOW SIX TABLES.
A LAWN TURNED LOUNGE OUT BACK.
CLOSED ON SUNDAYS IF GRANDMA'S
VISITING.
THESE KINDS OF BARS WERE BORN
DURING APARTHEID TIMES WHEN
BLACK SOUTH AFRICANS NOT ALLOWED
TO OWN BUSINESSES IN WHITE AREAS
ADAPTED AND IMPROVISED.
THEY DID THEIR OWN THING.
CREATED THESE LITTLE MIKE CROW,
UNDER THE OFFICIAL RADAR
RESTAURANTS KNOWN AROUND HERE AS
EAT HOUSES.
>> BACK IN THE DAYS, OBVIOUSLY,
IT WAS ILLEGAL.
>> RIGHT.
>> DURING APARTHEID.
SO THEY WILL HAVE MEETINGS TO
ACTUALLY PLAN WHAT THEY'RE GOING
TO DO.
>> RIGHT.
THIS WOULD BE CONSIDERED A
HOTBED OF SEDITION.
>> EXACTLY.
>> NOW IT'S JUST A HOT BED OF
DRINKING.
>> YEAH.
DIFFERENT KIND OF SEDITION.
>> THE BLK JKS HAVE JUST
FINISHED WATCHING THE GAME WHEN
I JOIN THEM FOR FOOD.
ARE THESE GOOD TIMES IN SOUTH
AFRICA?
BAD TIMES?
TRANSITIONAL TIMES?
>> 1994 WAS THE PEAK OF THE GOOD
TIME IN SOUTH AFRICA.
THEN NOW WITH THE OTHER POLITICS
AND OTHER PARTIES FIGHTING, IT'S
QUITE TENSE RIGHT NOW.
>> IT'S NOT LIKE IT WAS BEFORE
WHERE EVERYBODY'S -- YOU KNOW,
IT'S BLACK AND WHITE.
LITERALLY.
WE'RE UNIFIED ON THIS.
THEY'RE UNIFIED ON THAT.
>> THESE DAYS, THE PARTY THAT
FREED THE COUNTRY FROM WHITE
RULE, THE ANC, IS NOT
UNIVERSALLY LOVED ANYMORE.
IN RECENT YEARS THEY'VE BEEN
CRITICIZED FOR INACTION,
CORRUPTION AND CRONYISM.
AND OPPOSITION PARTIES ARE
GAINING STRENGTH.
>> ANYTHING THAT'S MAYBE NEW TO
US, I THINK WE'RE TRYING TO
NAVIGATE REALITY.
HOW DO YOU DEAL WITH SO MANY
OPINIONS?
THE PARTY THAT YOU LOVED THE
WHOLE TIME, THAT BROUGHT ABOUT
THIS FREEDOM, IS FUMBLING THE
BALL.
SO WHAT DO YOU DO?
IN DEMOCRACY, YOU SHOULD ACT.
>> SMILEYS.
FIRE ROASTED SHEEPS HEAD.
LIPS SHRIVELLED BACK IN A JOKER
LIKE RIKTUS OF DELICIOUSNESS.
CHOPPED INTO TASTY, TASTY BITS
AND EATEN WITH COLD BEER?
YES, OF COURSE, YES.
JUST NEEDS A LITTLE SALT AND
PEPPER.
>> GOOD STUFF.
THAT LOOKS GOOD.
>> IT'S PAP.
>> WHAT IS IT?
>> IT'S LIKE MAIZE.
>> IT FILLS THE ROLE GRITS DO IN
THE AMERICAN SOUTHWEST.
RICE IN MUCH OF ASIA.
IT'S TASTY, RELATIVELY
NUTRITIOUS AND CHEAP FILLER.
IT SOPS UP GRAVY WHEN YOU HAVE
SOMETHING LIKE THIS STEWED BEEF
REAL GOOD.
>> THAT'S A DUMPLING.
>> THAT'S A DUMPLING?
>> DUMPLINGS.
IMPORTANT THROUGHOUT THE AFRICA
DIASPORA.
MADE WITH FLOUR AND YEAST.
A SPONGY, BREAD TYPE TOOL FOR
MOP IT UP SAUCE.
STEWED GREENS, CARROTS, BEANS
AND MORE GRAVY.
>> THAT'S AWESOME.
TELL ME ABOUT YOUR BAND.
HOW LONG HAVE YOU GUYS BEEN
TOGETHER?
>> ABOUT TEN YEARS NOW.
>> WHOA.
A LONG TIME.
>> YEAH.
>> WOULD YOU SAY YOU WERE AN
INDIE BAND?
IS THERE AN IDIE THEME?
WHAT I GUESS I'M GETTING AT, IS
THERE A --
>> I WAS GETTING THERE.
♪
>> IN TERMS OF SOUTH AFRICAN
STREET CULTURE, PEOPLE ARE
REALLY PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES
NOW.
YOU DIDN'T REALLY HAVE WHEN WE
STARTED.
YOU LOOK AROUND.
IT'S LIKE, MAN, LIKE DEMOGRAPHIC
IS CRAZY.
>> WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY THAT?
>> IT'S NOT JUST RACIAL, BUT
CLASSES, YOU KNOW.
>> PEOPLE ARE BEING PUSHED AND
PULLED.
>> IT'S LIKE AN ASPIRATIONAL
CULTURE.
>> WHAT DO YOU THINK THAT MEANS?
>> THE WHOLE RAINBOW NATION
NOTION WAS QUITE ROMANTIC AND
RIDICULOUS.
YOU KNOW, LIKE RACISM IS NOT ON
A PIECE OF PAPER.
JUST BECAUSE WE VOTED IT OUT
DOESN'T MEAN PEOPLE STOP BEING
RACIST.
IT'S RIDICULOUS IN THAT SENSE.
BUT WE'VE LIVED SOMETHING ELSE
FOR 20 YEARS.
PEOPLE WANT IT.
IT'S NO LONGER LIKE A COFFEE
TABLE IDEA.
[ SPEAKING IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE ]
>> THIS IS SANZA SANDILE.
PIONEER OF SORTS.
HE'S TAKEN A TRADITIONAL COOK
SHOP SPACE IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD
OF JOHANNESBURG AND DONE
SOMETHING DIFFERENT.
YOVILLE IS A NEIGHBORHOOD WHERE
JUST ABOUT EVERYBODY COMES FROM
SOMEWHERE ELSE.
>> I CAME HERE AROUND TEN YEARS
AGO FROM SOWETO.
UP IN SOWETO. THEN WHEN
WE HEARD ABOUT THE BELLS
OF CHANGE, WE ALL RAN TO THE
CENTRAL PART OF THE CITY.
>> WITH THE END OF APARTHEID
AND -- SOUTH AFRICA BECAME A
BEACON AND A REFUGE FOR MILLIONS
OF AFRICANS FROM ALL OVER THE
CONTINENT.
BLACK SOUTH AFRICANS FOUGHT HARD
FOR THEIR FREEDOM AND THEIR
COUNTRY.
AS I UNDERSTAND A LOT OF THEM
ARE PRETTY PISSED OFF ABOUT
WE'RE JUST GETTING OUR [ MUTED ]
TOGETHER AND ALL THESE CONGOLESE
AND NIGERIANS ARE COMING HERE.
>> SANZA HAS NO FORMAL CULINARY
TRAINING.
HE'S COMPLETELY SELF-TAUGHT.
PICKING UP BITS AND PIECES WHEN
WE CAN.
OFTEN FROM THE WOMEN IN THE
NEIGHBORHOOD.
>> YOU'RE PLUCKING THE BEST OF
EVERYBODY IN THE CULTURE.
>> EVERY DAY.
EVERY DAY I LEARN.
WHAT ARE YOU EATING?
FROM YOU FROM?
I'VE BEEN TAUGHT BY SOME MEN.
THAT'S NOT HOW IT'S COOKED AT
HOME, YOU KNOW?
GO TO THAT AUNTIE.
TO THE BACK OF SOME DINGY CAB.
THERE'S A SMALL KITCHEN.
LOOK, THERE, IT'LL BE NICE.
HEY, AUNTIE, YOU KNOW, I'M
REALLY KEEN ON KNOWING HOW YOU
MAKE YOUR PARTICULAR SAUCE.
>> THEY'LL SHOW YOU?
>> I PICK UP.
THEN I RUSH BACK TO THE SHOP AND
I TRY IT OUT.
>> AT HIS COOK SHOP HE MIXES
RECIPES, INGREDIENTS, TECHNIQUES
AND TRADITIONS AS HE SEES FIT.
ONE REVIEWER DESCRIBED HIS STYLE
AS GASTRONOMIC SMUGGLING.
MOVING PEOPLE ACROSS BORDERS
WITH DISHES THAT SLIGHTLY
PARTAKE OF ELSEWHERE.
ON TODAY'S MENU IT SHA--
>> I MADE THIS FOR YOU.
THIS IS EGUSI AND BEEF.
>> BEEF STEWED WITH MELON AND
PUMPKIN SIDS.
THERE'S FUTU.
THE YOU BIKTOUS CORNMEAL
PORRIDGE.
MADE FROM A TEXTURE MORE CRUMB
CRUMBLEY THAN PAP.
>> GOOD TASTE.
OH, YEAH.
AWESOME.
GOOD FOOD HERE.
MENU CHANGE EVERY DAY?
YOU DO A LOT OF GREAT FOOD IN A
SMALL SPACE.
>> THERE WERE NO SEATS.
HIS CUSTOMERS REMAIN PART OF THE
CONSTANTLY UNFOLDING STREET
THEATER OF YOVILLE.
THEY MINGLE, TALK, OBSERVE.
>> WITH FOOD, I KNEW FOOD IS A
WAY TO ENGAGE.
GOT TO PUT SOMETHING IN YOUR
MOUTH TO GET YOUR EARS OPEN, YOU
KNOW.
♪
>> ACROSS TOWN, ANOTHER PIONEER
OF SORTS.
AN URBAN SETTLER IN A VERY
DIFFERENT NEIGHBORHOOD.
THIS IS HILLBROW.
A NOTORIOUSLY DANGEROUS
DISTRICT.
AND THIS IS DEEJAY ***.
>> WHEN I CAME HERE, I ALWAYS
DREAMED OF BEING A MUSICIAN.
I SEE MYSELF SINGING IN FRONT OF
HUGE CROWDS, YOU KNOW, MAKING
MONEY IN THE PROCESS.
THAT'S WHAT I DREAMT ABOUT.
>> HE SPINS RECORDS AND PROMOTES
ACTS AND EVENTS IN NIGHTCLUBS.
WE MEET IN HIS FAVORITE SPOT.
SYMPATHY'S RESTAURANT.
WHAT'S GOOD?
WHAT DO YOU LIKE?
THAT LOOKS GOOD.
IS THAT FRIED CHICKEN?
>> THAT'S THE FRIED CHICKEN.
>> THE PLACE IS HEAVY WITH THE
SMELL OF FRYING CHICKEN, STEWING
GREENS.
WALK RIGHT UP.
PLACE YOUR ORDER.
AND BE SURE TO GET SOME MILL
PAP.
HEAPED ON A PLATE WITH BEATS AND
COLESLAW THAT'S A NICE, HEAVY
BASE.
>> TELL ME ABOUT THE
NEIGHBORHOOD.
>> WHEN I FIRST CAME, IT WAS
ROUGH, MY FRIEND.
>> BEFORE '92, IT WAS LIKE WHITE
BUSINESS DISTRICT?
RESIDENTIAL DISTRICT?
>> BACK THEN, IT USED TO BE
CLEAN.
USED TO BE RESPECTED.
>> ONCE HILLBROW WAS AN ELITE
WHITES ONLY CENTER OF TOWN.
BUT WHEN THINGS STARTED TO
CHANGE, SO DID HILLBROW.
BECOMING ONE OF THE FIRST GRAY
AREAS WHERE WHITES AND BLACKS
MIXED.
HILLBROW BECAME ASPIRATIONAL.
A SYMBOL OF EVERYTHING BLACK
AFRICANS HAD LONG BEEN DENIED.
BUT WAS NOW ACCESSIBLE.
PEOPLE POURED IN IN LARGE
NUMBERS.
MANY OF THEM SQUATTERS FROM ALL
OVER THE CONTINENT.
>> PEOPLE COME HERE, THEY COME
HERE WITH ONE INTENTION.
MAKING A LIVING.
MAKING MONEY.
STARTED COMING HERE.
>> WHITE LANDLORDS AND TENANTS
SIMPLY WALKED AWAY FROM THEIR
PROPERTY.
THE DISENFRANCHISED WHO MOVED IN
LEGALLY, SEMILEGALLY, ILLEGALLY
OR JUST SQUATTING, AN INFLUX OF
GANGS AND CRIMINAL
ORGANIZATIONS, THE AREA SOON
SLIPPED INTO ANARCHY.
>> THERE'S A SAYING AROUND HERE.
OKAY?
THIS BUILDING'S BEEN HIJACKED.
>> EVERYTHING THAT COULD GO
WRONG, DID.
>> PEOPLE MAKE A LIVING FROM
DIFFERENT THINGS.
SOME HURT PEOPLE TO MAKE A
LIVING.
SOME THEY SELL THEIR BODIES.
SOMETIMES THINGS AREN'T ALWAYS
ACCORDING TO WHAT YOU PLAN.
THIS IS WHERE I LIVE.
THIS IS WHERE MY LIFE IS.
I'LL SHOW YOU.
>> WE TALK DOWN THE STREET AND
ONE OF THE MANY ENTERPRISES
DOING BUSINESS ON CORNERS AND IN
DOORWAYS AROUND US BECOMES
ALARMED AT THE SIGHT OF OUR
CAMERAS.
SOON THERE'S A MOB OF VERY ANGRY
PEOPLE COMING OUR WAY.
WE DO NOT TURN AROUND OUR
CAMERAS FOR OBVIOUS REASONS.
THESE DAYS THINGS ARE SLOWLY,
SLOWLY IMPROVING.
>> BUT BEFORE, WE WOULDN'T WALK
THIS FREELY.
NOW WE ARE FREE.
>> THERE'S ACTUAL LAW
ENFORCEMENT GOING ON IN FITS AND
STARTS.
AND THAT'S MAKING A DIFFERENCE.
BLACK OWNED LEGITIMATE
BUSINESSES HAVE GAINED A REAL
FOOTHOLD.
THERE ARE NEW REVITALIZATION
PROJECTS LIKE FARMER'S MARKETS
SPRINGING UP.
BUILDINGS ARE BEING RECLAIMED.
AND PEOPLE HERE HOPE THAT
HILLBROW IS PAST THE BAD OLD
DAYS.
>> THERE'S NO FEAR NOW.
YOU HAVE TO RELAX.
NOTHING WILL HAPPEN TO YOU.
>>> WHAT'S IN A NAME?
IF THE NAME IS SOWETO, YOU BEST
BELIEVE IT MEANS PLENTY.
THIS IS MADU.
FOR OVER A DECADE HE'S BEEN IN
WHAT HAS AT TIMES BEEN THE VERY
DIFFICULT BUSINESS OF DRIVING A
TAXI.
YOU SHOULD PROBABLY KNOW THAT
THE WORD TAXI IN SOWETO MEANS
SOMETHING A LITTLE DIFFERENT
THAN, SAY, NEW YORK.
>> HOW MANY TAXIS DO YOU HAVE IN
SOWETO?
>> THIS COMING FROM A PARTICULAR
PASSENGER MEANS SOWETO.
ALSO THIS AND THIS.
JOHANNESBURG HAS AN ELABORATE
SYSTEM OF HAND SIGNALS
INDICATING DESIRED ROUTES OF
TRAVEL.
>> YOU'RE LOOKING AT THE HAND
SIGNALS AND SAY I'M NOT GOING
THERE, I'M NOT GOING THERE.
>> I'M LOOKING AT HAND
SAYINGALS.
>> IN 1994 SOWETO CAME INTO
BEING AS WORKERS LODGING.
A PLACE TO PUT BLACK LABORERS
COMFORTABLY REMOVED FROM WHITE
SOCIETY.
A GHETTO.
BY THE 1950s IT HAD BECOME THE
CENTER OF RESISTANCE TO WHITE
RULE.
SYNONYMOUS WITH THE STRUGGLE
AGAINST THE WHOLE ROTTEN RACIST
SYSTEM.
>> NOW THERE IS A DEFINITE CARHE
TO HAVING LIVED IN SOWETO.
A VERY REAL PRIDE BACK AT BEING
IN THE CENTER OF THINGS WHEN IT
WAS HARD AND DANGEROUS TO HAVE
AN OPINION.
NELSON MANDELA LIVED HERE.
DESMOND TUTU.
WHEN YOU'RE OF CERTAIN AGE AND
YOU SAY YOU WERE BORN AND BRED
IN SOWETO, IT MEANS SOMETHING.
DO MOSTLY PEOPLE OWN THEIR HOMES
OR RENT?
>> MOSTLY PEOPLE OWN THEIR
HOMES.
>> THINGS START TO GET A LITTLE
BETTER.
CAN YOU BUILD UP?
>> YOU CAN BUILD UP.
>> LOOK AT THE STREETS HERE AND
YOU SEE WHAT THAT KIND OF PRIDE
DOES.
IT MAY NOT BE A RICH AREA, BUT
IT'S IMMACULATE.
SQUARED AWAY.
AN EMERGING MIDDLE CLASS COMING
UP, RATHER THAN FLEEING TO
ELSEWHERE.
>> YOU KNOW WHERE YOU'RE GOING,
RIGHT?
>> YEAH.
I KNOW WHERE I'M GOING.
>> NEXT EXIT?
SMOKY DELICIOUS MEAT OVER FLAME.
UNDER THE OVERPASS, ALL SORTS OF
MYSTERY MEATS FOR SALE.
THE TAXI MAN'S LUNCH.
WE ORDER SOME BRISKET, SOME
SAUSAGE, SOME HEART.
BEAUTIFUL THING.
MEAT, A CUTTING BOARD, A KNIFE.
>> YOU CHOSE WELL.
THESE GUYS ARE GOOD.
♪
>> HERE, SPREAD OVER THOUSANDS
OF SQUARE FEET, THE REMNANTS OF
WHITE COLONIAL RULE.
WHAT'S LEFT FROM THE DESCENDANTS
OF BIBLE THUMPING DUTCH SETTLERS
WHO CAME HERE TO FARM, TO RANCH,
TO BUILD THEIR OWN WORLD ON TOP
OF AN EXISTING ONE.
THEY CAME IN THE 1600s.
IF NOTHING ELSE CAN BE SAID
ABOUT THEM, THEY WERE A TOUGH
BUNCH.
IN THE 1800s THE BRITISH CAME.
DIAMONDS WERE DISCOVERED.
GREED HEADS JOCKEYED FOR POWER.
THERE WAS WAR, AND AN UGLY ONE.
IN THE END THERE WAS AN UNEASY
SHARES OF POWER.
THE BOARS BEEN KNOWN AS AFRIC
AFRICANERS.
IN THE 20th CENTURY RACIST
AFRICANERS IDEOLOGY GREW.
AR PAR TIDE WAS ENACTED.
WHITE DOMINATION BECAUSE THE
RULE FOR ALMOST 100 YEARS.
BUT LOOK.
MEAT.
YOU WANT TO SEE AN EX-PAT SOUTH
AFRICAN WEEP, WAVE SOME OF THIS
UNDER THEIR NOSE.
IT'S LIKE A MUSSOLINI THEMED
RESTAURANT?
>> YEAH.
THAT'S IT.
THAT'S IT.
NEOFASCIST BUTCHERY.
>> IN THE GOOD OLD DAYS.
>> DOESN'T LOOK LIKE ANY BUTCHER
I'VE BEEN INTO.
>> OUR NORTH OF NORTHWEST BY
JOHANNESBURG IS PRETORIA.
STILL THE ADMINISTRATIVE CENTER
OF SOUTH AFRICA.
ONCE THE HEART OF APARTHEID.
HERE YOU CAN FIND A FATHER/SON
BUTCHERY, RESTAURANT AND THEMED
MUSEUM.
I JUST DON'T KNOW HOW I FEEL
ABOUT THIS PLACE.
IT DOESN'T FIT IN WITH MY WHITE
LIBERAL GUILT SENSIBILITY.
>> IT JUST WOULDN'T BE ACCEPTED.
COULDN'T EXIST.
>> AS ANY SOUTH AFRICAN BUTCHER
WOULD, THEY SPRINKLE SALT, BROWN
SUGAR, MORE VINEGAR.
PACK IN LAYERS, REPEAT.
AFTER 24 HOURS REMOVE AND HANG
TO AIR DRY FOR A WEEK.
VOILA.
A TASTY JERKY TREAT WE CAN ALL
GET BEHIND.
CHEF ANDREA BURGENER, SOUTH
AFRICAN BY BIRTH, ENGLISH AND
GERMAN BY BACKGROUND, WITH
USUALLY BE FOUND IN THE TRENCHES
OF HER JOBURG RESTAURANT, THE
LEOPARD.
SHE'S KNOWN FOR HER PLAYFUL
MENUS BUT LOATHES CULINARY
FASHION.
SHE STRIVES FOR A LOCALLY
GROUNDED CUISINE.
TODAY, SHE'S MY GUIDE THROUGH
THIS TWILIGHT ZONE.
♪
>> IT'S WEIRD HERE.
AND THOUGH I'M TOLD THE PLACE
USUALLY REFLECTS THE CHANGING
DEMOGRAPHIC OF MODERN SOUTH
AFRICA, TODAY, NOT SO MUCH.
THE CUSTOMERS MAY OR MAY NOT
HAVE FEELINGS ABOUT THE
AFRIKAANER MEMORABILIA.
REALLY THEY JUST COME FOR MEAT.
CHOOSE T-BONE, RUM STEAK.
SPICY SAUSAGE MADE FROM BEEF AND
PORK.
>> OUR SECRET INGREDIENT IS
MONKEY GLAND SAUCE.
>> EVERY STEAK HOUSE HAS MONKEY
GLAND SAUCE.
IT'S BARBECUE SAUCE.
>> THEY COOK IT UP ALONG WITH
SOME PAP AND FRIES AND PRESTO.
A COLON CLOGGING PILE OF MEAT IN
THE RUINS OF EMPIRE.
>> YEAH.
I MEAN, MEAT IS A VERY BIG
THING.
THERE'S ENOUGH OF IT, I THINK.
>> GOOD LORD.
I CAN SWIM IN IT.
>> TASTES LIKE OPPRESSION.
>> AFTER THIS SHOW AIRS, I'M
GOING TO GET A HUGE AMOUNT OF
MAIL SAYS WHY DIDN'T YOU GO TO
CAPETOWN?
GREAT MODERN RESTAURANTS.
CUTTING EDGE CHEFS.
IS IT ALL RIGHT I MISSED ALL
THAT?
>> I FEEL LIKE THOSE PARTICULAR
RESTAURANTS IN CAPETOWN ARE NOT
REALLY REPRESENTATIVE OF WHAT
MOST PEOPLE IN THIS COUNTRY ARE
EATING.
I THINK A LOT OF OUR MOST BASIC
STUFF IS REALLY WHAT WE DO BEST.
THIS FOOD IS ABSOLUTELY GOT NO
INTEREST IN FASHION.
IT'S NEVER GOING TO CHANGE.
THERE'LL STILL BE THE MONKEY
GLAND SAUCE.
>> YOU THINK THE WHITE CHEFS
HERE UNDERSTAND THE GREATEST
ADVANTAGE THEY HAVE IS THAT THIS
ENORMOUS PAN AFRICAN LARDER OF
INGREDIENTS AND PLFLAVORS?
>> NO.
IF YOU'RE A *** IN THE CITY
YOU'RE PROBABLY GOING TO EAT THE
WORST FOOD OF ANYONE IN THE
CITY, QUITE HONESTLY.
IN EVERY COUNTRY, OBVIOUSLY FOOD
IS POLITICAL.
IT ALWAYS FEELS LIKE IT'S A BIT
MORE POLITICAL HERE.
THAT THERE ARE THESE LAYERS OF
THINGS THAT YOU COULDN'T HAVE.
LIKE RESTAURANTS.
I GO TO RESTAURANTS.
I THINK TO MYSELF, WOW, THIS
MANY YEARS AGO, I COULDN'T HAVE
COME HERE WITH THIS PERSON.
THEY WERE NOT ALLOWED TO SIT IN
HERE.
AND I REMEMBER VERY CLEARLY
BEING AROUND 8.
THE CAFE OWNER WOULD REGULARLY
NOT PAY THE CUSTOMER WHO WAS
BLACK WITH CHANGE.
HE WOULD PAY HIM WITH BUBBLE
GUM.
AND THE GUY SOMEHOW, HE COULDN'T
ARGUE.
IF YOU WERE A BLACK GUY, YOU GOT
YOUR CHANGE IN BUBBLE GUM.
I WAS 8 YEARS OLD FEELING LIKE,
OH, MY GOD, IT WAS SO TERRIBLE.
BUT YOU COULDN'T SAY ANYTHING.
BECAUSE THAT WOULD HAVE BEEN
WORSE.
IT REPRESENTED SUCH BADNESS.
IT JUST SEEMS MAD.
>>> THIS IS AN ELAN.
THE LARGEST ANTELOPE IN THE
WORLD.
IT IS ALSO, UNLUCKILY FOR HIM,
DELICIOUS.
[ GUNSHOTS ]
>> GOT HIM.
>> I THINK THAT WAS VERY GOOD.
>> IT'S A LITTLE SAD.
>> YOU KNOW WHAT?
THAT IS SUCH GOOD MEAT.
THAT'S REALLY WHAT WE DO.
>> THOUGH THIS ONE WEIGHS IN
AROUND A TON, REST ASSURED,
EVERY BITE, EVERY SCRAP, WILL BE
EATEN.
SOME OF THAT, TONIGHT AT DINNER.
CHEF ANDREA BURGENER, DIONNE, A
LOCAL HUNTING EXPERT, AND MYSELF
JOIN PROSPERO BAILEY ON HIS GAME
FARM.
HIS DAD WAS THE LEGENDARY
PUBLISHER OF THE SLYLY
SUBVERSIVE MAGAZINE.
A BLACK ORIENTED INVESTIGATIVE
MAGAZINE SLICKLY DISGUISED AS
GLOSSY POP CULTURE.
PROSPERA'S FARM IS MERE 20 MILES
FROM JOHANNESBURG.
>> YOU SEE THE CITY THERE?
>> YEAH.
TO HAVE ALL THIS IN SIGHT OF THE
CITY.
>> NEAR HIS FARM AND HIDDEN
WITHIN THE CITY'S SHADOW IS
WHAT'S KNOWN AS THE CRADLE OF
HUMANKIND.
A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE.
AN INCREDIBLE LOOK BACK AT WHERE
WE, THE HUMAN ANIMAL, CAME FROM.
>> IT'S A CLASSIC LITTLE SINK
HOLE.
>> THERE ARE LOADS OF THESE.
THIS IS WHAT THIS AREA IS.
THE CRADLE.
IT'S CALLED A CRADLE.
NOW A WORLD HERITAGE SITE.
BECAUSE 60% OF ALL THE EVIDENCE
FOR HUMAN EVOLUTION COMES OUT OF
THE VALLEY.
IT'S FROM CAVES LIKE THIS THAT
KEEP THE RECORD.
THAT GEOLOGY JUST CONSPIRES TO
PRESERVE FOSSILS.
THEY'RE VERY, VERY RARE THINGS.
BUT THEY'RE FOUND MORE HERE IN
THE LAST TEN YEARS THAN THEY'RE
FOUND ANYWHERE.
SO YOU'RE HOME.
THIS IS WHERE YOU STARTED.
>> THIS IS MY ANCESTRAL
HOMELAND?
>> THIS IS YOUR ANCESTRAL
HOMELAND.
♪
>> THAT SOUND MAKES ME HAPPY.
WHAT DOES THAT SOUND REMIND YOU
OF, GUYS?
WHAT DOES THAT EVOKE FOR YOU,
THAT SOUND?
PRIMEVIL.
YOUR ENEMY'S GENITALS FRYING IN
HOT OIL?
NOTHING?
>> I GET TO WORK ON THE HEART.
SOMETHING I STRONGLY SUSPECT
WILL BE DELICIOUS.
AND I'M RIGHT.
ANDREA WORKS HER MAGIC ON THE
LIVER.
DREDGED IN FLOUR AND SAUTEED.
THIS LOIN SEARED AND GLAZED WITH
***.
THERE'S E LAN PAPRICASH.
A RIFF ON THE HUNGARIAN STEW
WITH PAP RHEE KA, PEPPERS,
ONION, TOMATOES AND CREAM.
AS THE SUNSETS OVER THE BELT,
JOHANNESBURG LIGHTS BLINKING IN
THE DISTANCE, A FEAST.
MEAT ON THE PLATE.
BLOOD ON MY PANTS.
LIFE IS GOOD.
I'VE BEEN VERY, VERY, VERY
CONFUSED BY MY VISIT HERE.
YOU'VE GOT BASICALLY A GHOULASH
HERE.
THE BREAD SOMEONE REFERRED TO AS
PORTUGUESE?
>> YEP.
>> PORTUGUESE BUT IT'S FROM
MADERA.
THAT BREAD.
FLAT BREAD.
>> SOUTH AFRICA DEPENDING ON WHO
I TALK TO IS A COMPLETELY
DIFFERENT CONSTRUCT.
SO SOME PEOPLE SOMEONE WHO COMES
FROM SOMEWHERE ELSE IN AFRICA
AND BRINGS GOOD STUFF WITH THEM.
OTHER PEOPLE MALAYSIA, EAST
INDYES, DUTCH, ENGLISH
INFLUENCE.
>> THERE WERE SO MANY DIFFERENT
COLONIALIS
COLONIALISTS.
>> ONE AT THIS TABLE IS
ORIGINALLY AFRICAN AND DOES THAT
HAVE A MEANING?
>> THIS WOOD IS PINE.
>> I ARRIVED IN THIS COUNTRY
SPECTACULARLY IGNORANT.
I WILL LEAVE SPECTACULARLY
IGNORANT.
>>> RAMADAN.
AT THIS HOUR, ALL OVER
JOHANNESBURG.
MEMBERS OF SOUTH AFRICA'S
SIZABLE MUSLIM COMMUNITY
OBSERVE.
THE RELIGION OF ISLAM AS WELL AS
MANY OF SOUTH AFRICA'S MOST
BELOVED AND MOST DELICIOUS
DISHES AND INGREDIENTS LIKE
SAMBAL, CUTNY AND BUNNY CHOW
COME FROM MALAYSIA, INDONESIA,
INDIA.
DURING APARTHEID MANY SOUTH
AFRICANS WOULD HAVE BEEN
REFERRED TO AS COLORED.
COLORED DIDN'T MEAN BLACK.
IT MEANT EVERYBODY ELSE WHO
WASN'T EXACTLY WHITE.
ASIANS AND MIXED RACE.
>> IT'S GARLIC, GINGER AND
CHIL
CHILES.
>> IN THE OBSERVATORY
NEIGHBORHOOD OF JOHANNESBURG,
THE RASDIAN FAMILY PREPARES FOR
THE MEAL AT SUNDOWN WHEN FASTING
FOR RAMADAN IS BROKEN.
JOEY IS A STANDUP COMEDIAN, AN
ACTOR OF CAPE MALAY BACKGROUND.
THIS DISH, PANANG CURRY WITH
BEEF AND EGGS.
JOEY'S WIFE, CINDY, PREPARES A
CHICKEN PIE.
SON, HAKEEM, MAKES THE
TRADITIONAL RAMADAN SHAKE.
DAUGHTER, LAYA.
♪
>> EVERYTHING SMELLS TERRIFIC.
>> THAT'S SOUP.
>> IT'S NICER TO HAVE SOUP AFTER
YOU'VE NOT EATEN THE WHOLE DAY.
IT'S LIGHT AND NOURISHING AND
FILLING AND ALL OF THOSE GOOD
THINGS.
>> THERE'S ALSO CHEESE AND BEEF
>> YES, I WAS.
>> SO HOW ARE THINGS?
>> IT DEPENDS ON WHAT YOU ARE
SPEAKING ABOUT.
>> SOCIETY OPERATES THE WAY
SOCIETY SHOULD.
BUT ON THE OTHER HAND, MANY WAYS
THIS IS A NEW COUNTRY.
>> IT IS.
IT'S 19 YEARS OLD.
>> I THINK THE AFRICANS FROM THE
OTHER COUNTRIES SEE SOUTH AFRICA
AS A PLACE OF HOPE.
BECAUSE IF THERE'S A LOT HERE,
THEN THERE ARE A LOT OF
OPPORTUNITIES, LOTS OF PEOPLE
MIGHT GET FROM HERE.
AFRICANS WOULD CORM FROM FAR TO
FIND A LITTLE BIT OF SOMETHING
HERE.
>> SO HOW DO YOU FIND SOUTH
AFRICA SO FAR?
>> I'M VERY COMFORTABLE HERE.
I LIKE A COUNTRY WHERE PEOPLE
HAVE A SENSE OF HUMOR.
THERE'S A LOT OF BALL BUSTING
DOING ON HERE.
>> ALL THE TIME.
FROM THE TOP TO THE BOTTOM.
>> 20 YEARS FROM YOU, WHAT'S IT
GOING TO BE LIKE?
>> THE ONES THAT'S GIVING OUR
CURRENT PRESIDENT LOTS OF HELL.
THE ONES BORN IN THE NEW
DEMOCRACY.
OR JUST BEFORE THE FIRST
ELECTION.
>> RIGHT.
>> THE BORN FREES ARE LIKE, LOOK
HERE, WE WENT TO SCHOOL.
THIS IS RIGHT AND THIS IS WRONG.
WHAT YOU'RE DOING IS WRONG.
BUT WE'RE AT A STRUGGLE.
I DON'T CARE.
THANK YOU FOR THE STRUGGLE.
>> I WANT FIVE BARS ON MY 3G, I
WANT WI-FI, AND IT BETTER BE
HIGH SPEED.
>> ABSOLUTE.
>> I DON'T THINK THE CURRENT
POLITICIANS FORESAW THAT.
FORESAW THE BORN FREES NOT
SUPPORTING THEM.
>> THERE'S A CRITICAL MASS OF
YOUNG PEOPLE THAT WANTS TO
CHANGE SOUTH AFRICA IN A
POSITIVE WAY.
HOW THEY DO IT OR HOW THEY GO
ABOUT IT, I DON'T KNOW THE
ANSWER TO THAT.
NEITHER DO THEY KNOW THE ANSWER
TO THAT.
BUT THEIR INTENTIONS IS CLEAR.
>>> NO MORE HIPSTER JOKES.
IT'S LOW HANGING FRUIT.
AND ONE CAN NO LONGER ARGUE
AGAINST THE STEADY CREEK OF
THEIR FOODIE SENSIBILITIES.
CHEESES, YES, RIGHT OVER THERE.
HAND MADE, YES.
THERE.
THIN CRUST PIZZA, A VERY
RESPECTABLE PIAYYA, YES, YES,
AND YES.
IT'S OFFICIAL.
THEY'RE HERE AND THEY AREN'T
GOING ANYWHERE.
I LIKE THE IDEA OF A BURGER FOR
BREAKFAST OR IS THERE SOMETHING
PERVERSE ABOUT THAT.
THROW IN A CROWD OF MUCH MORE
DIVERSE AND HUNGRY PEOPLE, AND
YOU MIGHT THINK YOU'RE IN
BROOKLYN.
SURELY, THIS IS NOT A BAD THING.
THIS IS NEIGHBOR GOODS MARKET IN
JOHANNESBURG.
MY DINING COMPANION FEATURES
WRITER PERCY MUMBANDO SAYS WE
SHOULD HOLD OUT FOR THIS.
>> ONE WITH LOTS OF CHEESE.
>> FLATTENED GROUND BEEF SERED
OVER FLAMES.
>> COOK THE FOOD RIGHT.
>> ADD MOZZARELLA CHEESE, FOLD
IT UP, PICK YOUR CONDIMENTS.
KA BADGE, TOMATO, ONION,
LETTUCE, HOT PEPPERS.
UP TO THE ROOF WITH A VIEW AND
EAT.
SPICY.
GOOD.
I GUESS I WANT TO TALK ABOUT
NELSON MANDELA.
BECAUSE WHAT I WAS NOT AWARE OF
AT ALL WAS THE DEGREE TO WHICH
HE WAS PERSONALLY RESPONSIBLE
FOR REALLY THE NUTS AND BOLTS OF
THE TRANSITION FROM WHITE RULE
TO MAJORITY RULE.
NOW HE'S VERY ILL.
>> Reporter:
>> YEAH, YEAH.
>> WHAT HAPPENS AFTER MANDELA?
>> WE GO ON.
AND I THINK THROUGH GOD WE HAVE
HIM AS A SYMBOL.
I THINK MANDELA REPRESENTS OUR
NATION.
THE TEST WE USE TO CHECK THE WAY
FORTH.
>> ALL THE THINGS THAT COULD
HAVE GONE TERRIBLY WRONG, IT'S A
REMARKABLE THING HOW WELL IT
WENT.
>> BETWEEN 1990 AND 1994, TOUGH
TIMES, YOU KNOW, INTO THE CITY
FIGHTING.
BLACK-ON-BLACK VIOLENCE.
BLACK-ON-WHITE VIOLENCE.
BUT WE TRANSCENDED THAT COMING
TOGETHER REGARDLESS OF THE
UNRESOLVED ISSUES.
>> WHAT EXTENT ARE THINGS
GETTING MIXED?
WE LIKE TO THINK WE LIVE IN A
RAINBOW NATION, BUT IN FACT, IN
THE STATES LIKE TO A GREAT
EXTENT IN DIFFERENT
NEIGHBORHOODS.
IN SOME WAYS IT LOOKS TO ME
OUTSIDE LOOKING IN A LITTLE MORE
GRACEFULLY MIXED UP THAN WE'VE
MANAGED IN THE STATES.
>> HERE YOU'VE GOT BLACK, WHITE,
COLORED, ALL SORTS OF PEOPLE
HERE.
ALSO ONCE YOU HAVE THE KNOWLEDGE
THAT THE ECONOMIC DISPARITIES
ARE MANAGING TO KEEP US DIVIDED
AS WELL.
I THINK WHAT WE NEED TO DO IS
UNPACK WHAT WE MEAN BY RAINBOW.
I THINK BEING DIVERSE ALSO MEANS
THAT THERE'LL BE MOMENTS OF
DISCORD.
>> AND YOU THINK THINGS WILL
CONTINUE TO IMPROVE?
>> YEAH.
I THINK WE'VE SEEN OUR WORST.
AND THAT'S NOT TO SAY THAT WE'RE
GETTING IT RIGHT ALL THE TIME.
BUT IT'S AN EXPERIMENT YOU NEED
TO FIND AS YOU GO ALONG.
THAT'S REALLY THE SOUTH AFRICAN
STORY.
THE DREAM IS THERE.
WE ALL AGREE THAT THE VISIONS
ARE THERE.
BUT THESE ARE NOT BIGGER THAN
OUR HOPES.
>> WHAT DID I KNOW ABOUT SOUTH
AFRICA BEFORE I GAME HERE?
EXACTLY NOTHING, AS IT TURNS
OUT.
BUT I THINK BASED ON WHAT I'VE
SEEN, THAT IF THE WORLD CAN GET
IT RIGHT HERE.
A COUNTRY WITH A PAST LIKE SOUTH
AFRICA'S, IF THEY CAN FIGURE OUT
HOW TO MAKE IT WORK HERE FOR
EVERYBODY.
ABSORB ALL THE PEOPLE FLOODING
IN FROM ALL OVER AFRICA,
CONTINUE TO MAKE MANDELA'S DREAM
A REALITY, MAYBE THERE'S HOPE
FOR THE REST OF US.