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hi i'm rob and this is dave professional cabinet installers here to
demonstrate a frameless cabinet install
some tools that you're gonna need for this job
first thing you are going to want to do is verify the order
go over it with your designer so you know where everything goes
then cross check your order with the packing slip
to ensure that everything is there
unpack the cabinets and check for damages as soon as possible
remove the doors drawers and shelves from the cabinet
and carefully place them so not damage them
go through the cabinets and identify the finished ends
make sure you have an installation kit and the right screws before you start
when preparing for your install
you're going to want to locate and mark each stud
then check the corners to make sure your walls are square
then find the high points and low points of your kitchen
make sure you set your cabinets for the heights of your dishwasher and stove
in extreme cases
you may need to cut the cabinet or shim it on the other side to make it level
on a base cabinet installation at the end of the cabinet run
dave will be installing a filler and an overlay filler
in order to clear uneven walls
or door casings
on blind corner cabinet installations you'll need to pull the cabinet away from the
wall as well as install a minimum two inch filler
so the drawers will clear the handles
as another option if you're installing a bccq cabinet
all you need to do is put it in place
and level it
another option is a bcc unit
dave is installing plywood along the back of the wall
to help support the back of the countertops
by butting up the cabinet beside it
it helps keep your cabinet square
as with all corner cabinet installs
you will start your installation from the corner
and work your way out
in this demonstration our flooring is already installed
but in some installs where the flooring is not in place then each cabinet will need to
be shimmed to the height of the flooring
in addition you'll also need to plane your cabinets to ensure their level
now that dave has moved the cabinets into place
we're gonna level them
secure them to the wall using 2 1/2 inch screws
and fasten the screw through the hanger strip
dave has finished fastening the cabinets to the wall
you notice he's left sufficient space for the dishwasher
if there'd been a window here
dave would have centered the cabinet in the middle of the window
that would have moved the whole cabinet run down
causing the spacing between his corner cabinet
and his adjacent cabinet
there we'd use a filler
when installing the cabinets with a slide in stove application
use a 3/4" filler on each side of the stove opening to
ensure that the drawer fronts
will clear the control panel of the stove
now that dave has leveled the cabinets
and secured them to the walt
left sufficient opening for the dishwasher and stove now we are going to work on the wall cabinets
when installing wall cabinets the same rules apply as base cabinets
start from your corner and work your way out
dave has measured for the stove cabinet
and found the center so he'll know where to hang the adjacent cabinets
he's measured the total distance of all cabinets to be installed to
make sure there's enough room to accommodate the mouldings
he's used pre cut stilts
to achieve the eighty four inch cabinet height
he has hung the corner cabinet
plum and level
and would shim if needed
a special note
frameless cabinets have a bottom
and they're identified by the edge banding
now you see dave has finished installing the wall cabinets
and has installed the fillers into the empty places
in this process dave is taking care to shim the cabinets
to allow for a straight line
this will allow proper moulding reveal
he also installed a refrigerator cabinet to the full height panels
dave cut the panels to the appropriate height
and attached the left panel to the refrigerator cabinet
to act as a support
he has also blocked the top of the refrigerator cabinet
to suspend the cabinet
on the full end panels
he then lifted the unit into place
and attached it to the cabinet run
he removed the blocks from the top and installed the final filler
before installing the mouldings first you'll need to figure out where the reveal starts
on this particular moulding
it will start at the step down
and that will be flush with the cabinet
most mouldings have a nailer strip
they can be installed two different ways
one by nailing them
or two by screwing them
as you can see dave has finished installing the cabinets and moulding
to acheive this dave had to measure the proper length of the moulding
and subtract three quarter inch per end panel
by doing this it will give you the proper length
we use blocks on our mitre saw
and cut the mouldings upside down to ensure a proper angle
dave has stained the mitre cuts prior to glueing
he also tested the fit of the moulding pieces
by dry fitting them
before gluing and nailing them into place
after glueing he then taped the pieces together until they dried
for a tight long-lasting fit
after installing the light rail
we suggest using an opaque silicone this will block the under cabinet lighting from shining through
now that dave is finished installing the mouldings
he has to work on the door hinge adjustments
the door hinge has three adjustments
up-and-down
in and out
and side to side
in doing this you will maintain equal spacing between the doors giving you a nice
clean look
melamine drawers have a figure eight system that will allow a quarter-inch adjustment either way
wood drawer boxes have many adjustments
the figure eight system
front up-and-down wedge
and an adjustable back leveling
one of the big advantages of a frameless cabinet
is an easy remove hinge system
as you can see this speeds up installation
installing the glass will require clear silicone
center the glass
and then place a bead of silicone around the edge
to hold it in place
this will require about two hours to dry before you hang the door
install all toekick after the flooring has been completed
each toekick should be cut for length between the cabinet
keep in mind you'll have to subtract the under panel moulding
from the overall length of the toekick
for best results
mitre the toekick
same as you would the mouldings
nail the toekick moulding
at the top of the cabinets toekick with your pin nailer to hide all pin hole nails
in a customer care kit
there's a marker
a putty stick and a scraper
they're all for touch ups
the marker is used for scratches and minor damage
the putty stick is used
for chips
this will be filled in with the putty stick
then scrapped smooth with a scraper
final step to your installation
is installing the hardware
first you'll wither need to purchase or make a gauge
this will speed up the hardware installation
what you want to do
is center your gauge
on the drawer front
measure equal distance
and drill for hardware
we've built a different gauge
for the door hardware
be sure to counter sink the back of the holes
to ensure that they don't scratch other doors are center stops
this concludes our install demostration
we've enjoyed walking through the process
of installing frameless cabinets with you
and hope you picked up some good tips and tricks
that will help you on your next cabinet project
thanks for watching